For those interested, these insert style terminals have a UL rating and to remove the wire once set, requires more than 5lbs of force to pull them out of the terminal.

I realize that there are others out there, I have used several over the years, all good. I decided to make my own because I like LED's under fuses to tell me if the fuse is good or bad. As far as soldering wires to the board while the transformer and mounting plate are still in the game, don't care for it to much. It's a balancing act with the board hanging there, wires floating all over. I just now strip the wires, push the button on the terminal, and insert the wire (I also tin my wire ends, it makes it easier). My teenage son did our SBM in a little less than 10 minutes.

Since I had LED'd my game, the second wires for the GI were trimmed a while back. Didn't need them because the GI current is running about 7A not 20A. The extra wire is only for all of that current.

With what you are describing though, I would suggest stripping those common wires, remove some of the strands, twist and then tin the end.

I did consider adding holes for those who want to solder but chose to not include because of space on the board and how I was running the copper. Still not out of the question though.

I appreciate the input!

Good question here are some answers/explanations:

* the fuse clip does have a slight gap under it, albeit a small gap, about 0.5mil, caused by the kink in the pin.
* I don't create a solid pad under the fuse clips here. When calculating what was required for the current load, it was not necessary.
* There is 30mil separation between the trace and pads on either side. PCB trace calculators usually state based on voltage and current for traces of this type a minimum of 12-15mils separation be maintained between different signals.
* I receive certification reports on all PCBs. I specify that the PCB will be constructed to IPC-610 Class 2 current revision standards. The soldermask thickness will be between 0.7 and 1.2 mils thick. The dielectric insulation of the soldermask isn't stipulated but typical soldermask is rated 1000V/mil thickness.

Thanks for asking Quench!

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