Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider topkat.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
anyone have a tip for correctly touching up the 3 rocket flames? someone touched up the one I got and the color looks shit.
Problem I see is those flames have a fairly intricate pattern, ..not sure if anyone had suggestion or tracing?
Quoted from bluespin:Create a water slide decal and then clear over it
thanks
do you know anyone who has done that?
I doubt my skills in that department..
Has anyone made a decal or stencil for the "2000" and triangle below the 6 bank drop target. Mine has been painted over very poorly...Probably even worse than what I could have done.
Quoted from setzkor:Which screw holes are you talking about? Most of those I believe are where the switches are, which you have presumably removed.
The upper bracket. It has one on each end. Always makes me suspicious there were supposed to be more
Quoted from TaylorVA:Just some Meteor porn.
Enjoy.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
Did you do the swap?
Looks cool
Quoted from woz:That original playfield looks to be in very good shape. I wouldn't bother doing a swap.
Love the 7 digit mod. Another item on the to-do list!
I thought it was a new cpr. Looks great
anyone have an idea how much extra weight is needed for the repro drop targets? My new ones look nice but dont fall all the way down consistently and I see people have added weights..
thanks
Quoted from Coyote:I have repro targets, and never needed weight. Are you using the right springs
It looks like it’s the original springs.
They go down, but not always all the way down.
Trying to get this project figured out.
Previous owner said had trouble with the big meteor drops. I removed, replaced, cleaned and installed.
It had not been connected previously. When I connected the drop bank, no coils at all work now. Not flipper either. I replaced the rectifier board and all tp voltages are good. Under pf fuse is good, solenoid board. fuse is good too.
I get voltage at solenoids, and test points on sdb look right. Any thoughts ?
Quoted from setzkor:If you disconnect the drops again are the solenoids still out?
Yes everything still dead
But it will start a game, no ball, and switches all register
Quoted from topkat:Trying to get this project figured out.
Previous owner said had trouble with the big meteor drops. I removed, replaced, cleaned and installed.
It had not been connected previously. When I connected the drop bank, no coils at all work now. Not flipper either. I replaced the rectifier board and all tp voltages are good. Under pf fuse is good, solenoid board. fuse is good too.
I get voltage at solenoids, and test points on sdb look right. Any thoughts ?
My last effort before I punt.
I tried putting in a new sdb and new mpu and I get the same result. ( already new rectifier) No firing of any coils. All the voltage tp are normal and the coils have voltage at the lugs. The connectors have been replaced at some point as well, don’t look bad.. does it have to be a connector ?
Quoted from hisokajp:wait so with the big bank unplugged all the machine coils are fine but when you plug the bank, all the coil stop working but no fuse blow? That is pretty strange since the coils are driven by their own transistor.
I assume if you desolder the bank coils (Voltage and groun wire) but plug in the rest of the bank then the machine coils work fine? That would isolate it to the bank coil, coil diode or wiring (backward?)...
so before it worked with the bank not connected. Now it doesn’t work no matter
Quoted from hisokajp:Well at least it makes sense your "most likley" bank bad coil/diode/wiring must have shorted the under PF fuse or the rectifier fuse. I would check and replace those then unsolder the coils on your bank, plug the bank in without a connect coil and turn the game back on.
If everything works with that one coil off at least you have identified the issue at the bank coil.
I’ve checked and even replaced all
The fuses on the rectifier. As well a new rectifier with new fuses. I’ve also pulled the unpf fuse 3 x to check it and it’s good as well..
I had hoped switching the boards would have done it but even the new sdb showed all leds signaling power.
Thank you for reply
Quoted from hisokajp:that is weird, have you check if you get power to your coils from the wire directly? It would help to know if it a power issue to the coil or a grounding issue. Hard to imagine that it wouldn't be a power issue to the coils if none of them work. If you don't find your 43VDC at the coil, or any of them, then trace it back, if it is not the fuse, it could be fuse clip, broken wires, bad connector/pins, etc...
If you have power to all your coil but none work then that gets more complicated as there is serious logic issue from your SDB and MPU so none activate...
If the boards test points are correct , but the coils are not then it have to be a connector. Is the power to the coils coming from sdb or is that directly from rectifier.
I checked all the coils and they all had power but now I can’t rmeneber if was 43.
When I put in the new sdb and mpu it was the I know it was exact same volts, but second guessing the reading
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Got the big drop target assembly removed, cleaned and the broken target replaced.
The replacement stickers from Marcos kinda stink but they’ll do the job. They were supposed to be clear as stated in the description on their website. I sent them an email asking WTH.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
You see a lot of refurbished drops with the letters sitting too low in the playfied, that is because the stickers are sized for the original tombstone/non hooded ones, when used on the hooded drops you have to cut ~1/16" off the top of the sticker.
[quoted image]
I replaced a set with the heat stamped ones , and they all sit lower than your R
Looks like the stickers would have been a better solution
Quoted from Coyote:Same here. I've lived with it, for now. But once I go to swap playfields, I'll likely fix that.
aside from switching to different targets and stickers, is there any way to life them higher. Or is it just bc the length is not original
Next issue When game powers up the pop bumper will fire. Then in attract mode it will fire. It doesn’t lock, it just seems as though its on a pattern with one of the lights? During gameplay it was firing normally. Then solenoid fuse blew.
Even if I open the switch completely in attract mode it keeps firing..
I guess I will check diode first on coil?
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Glad you figured it out. BTW it looks like that the screws in the coil stop are in backwards. They should be screwed in from the stop side into the metal frame. You can see the marks from the castle washers.
thanks. Strangely it had the washer marks on both sides.. I will switch them
This game had a plethora of incorrect screws
Quoted from ElCid95:I got a nice Meteor last weekend and am really enjoying it. I cleaned it up and added LED lights and about two days ago all my controlled lights quit working. I’ve checked the fuses on the rectifier board and made sure all the connectors are snug on the light board. I even reflowed solder on all the J1 connectors on the light board. I noticed that I wasn’t getting a good reading on TP1 on the rectifier board and it looks like a Frankenstein mess. Any thoughts on what to check next?
[quoted image]
looks like you are running 2 meteors off that board. Goodness
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider topkat.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-club-we-will-let-you-know-when-the-danger-is-past?tu=topkat and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Middletown, OH