(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,525 posts
  • 150 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by Robotworkshop
  • Topic is favorited by 77 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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#819 1 year ago

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip so that when I take the assembly out to service it I can replace those and have a matched set. At some point I may spring for a full set down the road but would be happy if I can at least get these two. I'd be glad to buy any good original spares without the lip that match these so I have some on hand in case any break. Please send me a PM if you have something that may help.

Robert

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#820 1 year ago

It looks like the previous person that "shopped" the game I bought may have messed up on the placement of the red playfield posts. I can see that there are two different heights and one thing that caught my eye is that the spinner sits on an angle. If anyone has a good picture of how the spinner is supposed to sit let me know.

Also it appears that a couple posts are cracked and some had been replaced with a different style/pattern on the post. I'd like to confirm what style should be on the game and try to get more of those so they all match.

Seems like a fun game so far and I look forward to cleaning this up.

#823 1 year ago

Thanks for posting the pictures. It looks like the game should have all faceted posts. Most are like that on mine but some star posts are mixed in on one side. There is also one missing and a couple broken that I need to replace. Also the spinner is sitting on an angle because the installed one short and one tall. I guess they could not make up their mind on what was right so they used on of each.

I just want to make it right when I get a chance to clean and wax the playfield and install fresh rubber rings. Looks like I need to get one of the post screws too for the missing post.

#824 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip.

I just saw that these drop targets use stickers so if I can't find any with the M an E then just regular ones will work and I can order a sticker set. Does anyone have extra plain ones they pulled out when putting in a new set?

#825 1 year ago

Has anyone else noticed that with LED's in the coin door that they can be seen if you look between the lock bar and playfield?

I had some extra white LED's that I just put on the coin door. They look great from the outside but I've noticed that you can see them if you lean over the playfield a bit and look down by the lock bar. It was bugging me a bit so I wanted to make a shield to keep the light going where it should. Modeled up the first version last night to try. Have a few adjustments to make and then print it in black to help block the light more. As it is this first attempt seems to help a great deal. Will see how the next version works.

Does anyone have spare coin door parts? I need one of the screws that holds the chute to the door as well as one of the coin switches and bracket that holds that switch with the screws. With that I could have all three coin mechs working.

Robert

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#839 1 year ago

I tried out the 2nd version of the light shield for the coin door lamps. Made these out of black ABS for use with LEDs. Made a huge difference. I no longer get the light shining up behind the lockdown bar. I may make a couple more adjustments since I want to make them 1mm taller and bring the sides shown on the left and top out a few mm to ensure they cover the hole. I wouldn't recommend use these with regular bulbs since there would be too much heat there.

Robert

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#840 1 year ago

The final version of the lamp cover for the Meteor coin door fits perfect! The lamp socket it holds it in place. I made it 1mm taller and bumped out the one side and top another 3mm to ensure it covers the coin door hole. One picture shows one new one with the previous version and then a couple that show all the new ones installed.

Now I just need to get a couple of those short screws like the ones used to secure the lamp sockets and that extra middle switch assembly/bracket. Then I can install the coin mechs again.

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#841 1 year ago

My nephew came over while I was working on the game and I think he is now hooked on this machine! This is a great example of a game that you don't have to have a lot of extras to make it a fun game. Eventually I will get this setup next to my Blackout.

#842 1 year ago

So, I have been working on my coin door. It had one broken .25 mech installed. I just put in a pair of .25 metal mechs and one SBA mech on the door. Also found that two slots were covered in duct tape to keep people from using those slots. Took a while to get that and all the old dried up adhesive off.

After all these years it is hard to tell what parts may have been mixed up. The game currently has the SBA mech on the right and the .25 on the left and in the center. Is that how these were normally configured? I have a blackout and it has the SBA in the middle and the .25 mechs on the right and left. I wasn't sure if the Stern should be like that or the way it is now. If your machine came with two .25 and one SBA mechs how are they positioned?

Still need to find the mounting bracket and switch for below the middle mech. It looks like all three switches are the same. If anyone has an old coin door being parted out I could use those parts and a few screws. Maybe even one of the white .25 entry slot plastic pieces.

#843 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip so that when I take the assembly out to service it I can replace those and have a matched set. I'd be glad to buy any good original spares without the lip that match these so I have some on hand in case any break. Please send me a PM if you have something that may help.

It looks like I need to add an O to the list. If you have any spare METEOR chiclet style drops let me now.

#846 1 year ago

I thought I read somewhere that contacts on some games could have been installed backwards. Maybe that is the case on your game. Are they all like that or just some of them?

1 week later
#855 1 year ago

Thank you for the suggestions. I also have a Blackout and it has the SBA mech in the center. I wasn't sure if Stern was setup differently. I'll move that slot for the SBA to the center like my other game. Still need to find a bracket and switch for that center mech but can add that later when I find it.

#858 1 year ago

Can someone confirm what power cord came on these when new? Is it a flat one or a round cord? The one on mine is a yellow cord that I think started life as an extension cord. I'd like to replace it with the correct one.

#859 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would love to help u with those parts but all mine are in storage until our house is finished. Just so you know Stern vid games w the black doors have the same inards and a ton of them on epay right now. The only difference is the absence of the white credit button.

If you ever do get to them I'd be glad to send you a set of the light shields I made for installing LEDs in the coin door.

1 month later
#864 1 year ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Does anyone have pics of the 6 bank target removed from the machine showing all wire connections?

I just pulled mine out last night to rebuild it and install new targets since the O just broke off. I can take some pictures of it. Do you need pictures of the wires on the switches or solenoids?

#865 1 year ago

Maybe these pictures will help.

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1 month later
#887 1 year ago
Quoted from sideshowbob:

Just joined the club and my Meteor needs a LOT of work. I've been able to track down most of the parts I may eventually need except for a replacement coin door. Somebody went at this thing with a crowbar/hammer. Any ideas where I could find a replacement or what other machines would have a compatible size/setup. Not too concerned about having 3 coin slots since it will be HUO on Free Play. Thanks.

If you find a replacement coin door I could use a couple parts off your trashed one if they are still good. Need an extra coin switch with bracket and a couple if the screws.

1 month later
#930 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That's the coin lockout, so that coins put in when the game is off will be rejected. I always just remove them since my games are on free play

You remove them or just disconnect them? Wouldn't it be better to just leave it in place (but disconnect) so it can easily be converted back to the quarter sucking machine it was meant to be?

#938 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Where's a good source for buying pins and connectors? I know someone mentioned where to buy with a link, etc but damn if I can find it now.
Thanks.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/default.asp

1 week later
#940 1 year ago

Does anyone happen to have good pictures of the neck attached to the meteor cabinet? The head on mine seemed like it was tilted forward and I think it was replaced. Mine is a rectangle the same height on all for sides. If I'm not mistaken it should be taller in the front and the sides angled. I'd like to confirm that and the correct measurements.

Does anyone reproduce that neck section for the old Stern games? If not I know someone who does wood working and could make one with the proper measurements.

#943 1 year ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The base for the head does taper. Here's a few pics, remember the front piece needs a gap to keep the glass edge protected.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for the pictures. It confirmed what I thought. Someone replaced the neck on my machine and it isn't tapered correctly. It explains why the head was leaning forward.

I had to take the machine down to store it temporarily and noticed it. When I pull it back out to setup again I'll have to see about replacing it.

3 weeks later
#971 1 year ago

Can someone with an original power cord take a picture on how it is routed in the cabinet? Also, is it supposed to be a round cord or one of the flat ribbed cords? The one on my machine isn't right and I would like to get a proper replacement.

Thank You!

#973 1 year ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The cord is a flat ribbed on. It hangs loose in the cab and ties into the line filter.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you! Now I know what cord to pickup and how it should be fastened in the cabinet.

3 months later
#1082 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Can anyone upload a better scan of the lamp schematics table? The one on IPDB isn't readable... I've got a weird issue with all my wow lights flickering

Are you running LEDs on the original boards?

#1084 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

No Leds. It's just the four wows. Trying to figure out if there's something in common.
The weirdest bit is that they all flicker even with J3 unplugged, which supposedly is what one of them is powered by, if I'm reading it right. But that shouldn't be possible. So either the scan is bad or I've got a short somehow?

Definitely check over all the wiring. It is easy fro things to move around and you may have something shorting against one of the wires. Or one broken off and touching.

2 weeks later
#1103 1 year ago

Another option is to use a few of the comet flame/fire LEDs for the rocket exhaust. It is a nice effect.

1 week later
#1113 1 year ago

Looks like a nice machine! Meteor is a fun game. If the lights in the coin door shine up between the lockdown bar and playfield I have a fix for that. There is a post earlier in this thread that shows the new covers.

1 month later
#1144 11 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I joined the club today! Yay!!
I am having a problem, however. The lights come on and it is making a two toned sound over and over and not ejecting the ball. It keeps flashing "shoot again" on the backglass. Any ideas?

Can you pull the backglass and get a picture of the boards inside? It will help to know if you're running the original boards or have aftermarket replacements in there.

If you have the original boards is the battery still on the MPU board and did it leak? Battery damage is common.

You should also see a diagnostic LED on the MPU. When you turn the game on watch it and count the flashes.

#1155 11 months ago

If you have a Meteor with the original power cord could you get some clear pictures on how it is secured in the lower cabinet and attached to the filter box? Someone had done sort of a hack job and spliced in part of a yellow extension cord for power. I have the correct original replacement cord and would like to install that the way it was from the factory. Securing it in the proper locations with enough slack before it get soldered to the filter box. I didn't see any good photos that show the way it should be done. It may help others having good reference photos in this thread.

Thank You.

PW_1 (resized).jpgPW_2 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1160 11 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Does this help?[quoted image]

Yes! I was able to get the new power cord installed and secured just like it would have been originally. Thank you.

#1162 11 months ago

That is a great point you bring up.

I have gotten into the habit of checking the voltage difference between all my machines. Just put the meter in AC and check across lockbars on each machine. Found one with a bad ground and nearly 60vac between the two games. Replaced the plug on the bad cord and back to 0 difference.

My Meteor was properly grounded. It just had a yellow extension cord as the power cord. Now it has the correct long flat cord secured just like it should be.

#1174 11 months ago
Quoted from ita47:

Has anyone used the Stern MPU-200 NVRAM Adaptor from https://nvram.weebly.com/ (bottom of the page) successfully in their Meteor? It replaces the U8 and U13 chips. I was thinking of putting one in mine so I don't have to mess with a remote battery holder.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have one in my Flight 2000 and it works great! No more battery.

#1177 11 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Meteor has compatibility issues with NVRAM chips. I used the Pinitech adaptor in all of my other games, but for Meteor I used the TNT Battery Eliminator: https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

Any other details on that? Is it something specific in the ROM code or maybe just a bad NVRAM module? My Flight 2000 has the same MPU-200 and it hasn't had any issues. The first time I powered up I had to clear settings and set all the adjustments, etc but nothing since.

1 week later
#1205 10 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Hello,to everyone,new owner here,was needing the decals on the drop targets>The ones that spell " meteor" does anyone know who sells these??Thanks,great pin!!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DT1477

2 weeks later
#1218 10 months ago

I woul take out the whole assembly and test it on the bench. Maybe the gap on the switches is just a little too much.

2 months later
#1255 7 months ago

I was able to work on and test the whole assembly on the bench. Just used a variable bench supply to work the coils.

7 months later
#1515 23 hours ago

It is important to check the switch with a ball to see if it registers with that. You could also try reseating the connector for the switch matrix at the MPU. I’ve had to rep in some of those due to weak and brittle pins.

#1525 19 hours ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Perhaps it's time to re-cap that sound board. Easy job if you have basic soldering skills and a de-soldering tool as well.

May want to check the speaker too. I had to replace the one on my game. Helped a lot!

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