(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

By pinballholder

5 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,111 posts
  • 188 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by BertoDRINK1
  • Topic is favorited by 96 Pinsiders


Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20210611_135701 (resized).jpg
20210611_135721_HDR (resized).jpg
20210611_133600 (resized).jpg
16234389085934844269152816224660 (resized).jpg
IMG_2064 (resized).JPG
IMG_2064 (resized).JPG
IMG_2083 (resized).JPG
IMG_2084 (resized).JPG
IMG_2085 (resized).JPG
58196043-088B-435D-BB81-5E71CF3A10D1 (resized).jpeg
338B4AA3-8152-44A2-AFC9-66560FCEF638 (resized).jpeg
PXL_20210529_232103235 (resized).jpg
IMG_6467[87] (resized).jpg
0C0AD774-4A5A-4714-B516-A266E71E216A (resized).jpeg
6595FF5B-6C61-4F94-BC53-85CEA39531B8 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #547 LED info. Posted by Gryphun (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider robotworkshop.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#819 3 years ago

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip so that when I take the assembly out to service it I can replace those and have a matched set. At some point I may spring for a full set down the road but would be happy if I can at least get these two. I'd be glad to buy any good original spares without the lip that match these so I have some on hand in case any break. Please send me a PM if you have something that may help.


Meteor_targets (resized).jpg

#820 3 years ago

It looks like the previous person that "shopped" the game I bought may have messed up on the placement of the red playfield posts. I can see that there are two different heights and one thing that caught my eye is that the spinner sits on an angle. If anyone has a good picture of how the spinner is supposed to sit let me know.

Also it appears that a couple posts are cracked and some had been replaced with a different style/pattern on the post. I'd like to confirm what style should be on the game and try to get more of those so they all match.

Seems like a fun game so far and I look forward to cleaning this up.

#823 3 years ago

Thanks for posting the pictures. It looks like the game should have all faceted posts. Most are like that on mine but some star posts are mixed in on one side. There is also one missing and a couple broken that I need to replace. Also the spinner is sitting on an angle because the installed one short and one tall. I guess they could not make up their mind on what was right so they used on of each.

I just want to make it right when I get a chance to clean and wax the playfield and install fresh rubber rings. Looks like I need to get one of the post screws too for the missing post.

#824 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip.

I just saw that these drop targets use stickers so if I can't find any with the M an E then just regular ones will work and I can order a sticker set. Does anyone have extra plain ones they pulled out when putting in a new set?

#825 3 years ago

Has anyone else noticed that with LED's in the coin door that they can be seen if you look between the lock bar and playfield?

I had some extra white LED's that I just put on the coin door. They look great from the outside but I've noticed that you can see them if you lean over the playfield a bit and look down by the lock bar. It was bugging me a bit so I wanted to make a shield to keep the light going where it should. Modeled up the first version last night to try. Have a few adjustments to make and then print it in black to help block the light more. As it is this first attempt seems to help a great deal. Will see how the next version works.

Does anyone have spare coin door parts? I need one of the screws that holds the chute to the door as well as one of the coin switches and bracket that holds that switch with the screws. With that I could have all three coin mechs working.


Meteor_CD_missing (resized).jpg

Meteor_CD_missing2 (resized).jpg

Meteor_CD_fix (resized).jpg

Meteor_CD_fix2 (resized).jpg

#839 3 years ago

I tried out the 2nd version of the light shield for the coin door lamps. Made these out of black ABS for use with LEDs. Made a huge difference. I no longer get the light shining up behind the lockdown bar. I may make a couple more adjustments since I want to make them 1mm taller and bring the sides shown on the left and top out a few mm to ensure they cover the hole. I wouldn't recommend use these with regular bulbs since there would be too much heat there.


Meteor_CD_fix3 (resized).jpg

Meteor_CD_fix4 (resized).jpg

#840 3 years ago

The final version of the lamp cover for the Meteor coin door fits perfect! The lamp socket it holds it in place. I made it 1mm taller and bumped out the one side and top another 3mm to ensure it covers the coin door hole. One picture shows one new one with the previous version and then a couple that show all the new ones installed.

Now I just need to get a couple of those short screws like the ones used to secure the lamp sockets and that extra middle switch assembly/bracket. Then I can install the coin mechs again.

Meteor_CD_fix4a (resized).jpg

Meteor_CD_fix5 (resized).jpg

Meteor_CD_fix6 (resized).jpg

#841 3 years ago

My nephew came over while I was working on the game and I think he is now hooked on this machine! This is a great example of a game that you don't have to have a lot of extras to make it a fun game. Eventually I will get this setup next to my Blackout.

#842 3 years ago

So, I have been working on my coin door. It had one broken .25 mech installed. I just put in a pair of .25 metal mechs and one SBA mech on the door. Also found that two slots were covered in duct tape to keep people from using those slots. Took a while to get that and all the old dried up adhesive off.

After all these years it is hard to tell what parts may have been mixed up. The game currently has the SBA mech on the right and the .25 on the left and in the center. Is that how these were normally configured? I have a blackout and it has the SBA in the middle and the .25 mechs on the right and left. I wasn't sure if the Stern should be like that or the way it is now. If your machine came with two .25 and one SBA mechs how are they positioned?

Still need to find the mounting bracket and switch for below the middle mech. It looks like all three switches are the same. If anyone has an old coin door being parted out I could use those parts and a few screws. Maybe even one of the white .25 entry slot plastic pieces.

#843 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip so that when I take the assembly out to service it I can replace those and have a matched set. I'd be glad to buy any good original spares without the lip that match these so I have some on hand in case any break. Please send me a PM if you have something that may help.

It looks like I need to add an O to the list. If you have any spare METEOR chiclet style drops let me now.

#846 3 years ago

I thought I read somewhere that contacts on some games could have been installed backwards. Maybe that is the case on your game. Are they all like that or just some of them?

1 week later
#855 3 years ago

Thank you for the suggestions. I also have a Blackout and it has the SBA mech in the center. I wasn't sure if Stern was setup differently. I'll move that slot for the SBA to the center like my other game. Still need to find a bracket and switch for that center mech but can add that later when I find it.

#858 3 years ago

Can someone confirm what power cord came on these when new? Is it a flat one or a round cord? The one on mine is a yellow cord that I think started life as an extension cord. I'd like to replace it with the correct one.

#859 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would love to help u with those parts but all mine are in storage until our house is finished. Just so you know Stern vid games w the black doors have the same inards and a ton of them on epay right now. The only difference is the absence of the white credit button.

If you ever do get to them I'd be glad to send you a set of the light shields I made for installing LEDs in the coin door.

1 month later
#864 3 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Does anyone have pics of the 6 bank target removed from the machine showing all wire connections?

I just pulled mine out last night to rebuild it and install new targets since the O just broke off. I can take some pictures of it. Do you need pictures of the wires on the switches or solenoids?

#865 3 years ago

Maybe these pictures will help.

IMG_1037 (resized).JPGIMG_1038 (resized).JPGIMG_1040 (resized).JPGIMG_1041 (resized).JPG
1 month later
#887 2 years ago
Quoted from sideshowbob:

Just joined the club and my Meteor needs a LOT of work. I've been able to track down most of the parts I may eventually need except for a replacement coin door. Somebody went at this thing with a crowbar/hammer. Any ideas where I could find a replacement or what other machines would have a compatible size/setup. Not too concerned about having 3 coin slots since it will be HUO on Free Play. Thanks.

If you find a replacement coin door I could use a couple parts off your trashed one if they are still good. Need an extra coin switch with bracket and a couple if the screws.

1 month later
#930 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That's the coin lockout, so that coins put in when the game is off will be rejected. I always just remove them since my games are on free play

You remove them or just disconnect them? Wouldn't it be better to just leave it in place (but disconnect) so it can easily be converted back to the quarter sucking machine it was meant to be?

#938 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Where's a good source for buying pins and connectors? I know someone mentioned where to buy with a link, etc but damn if I can find it now.


1 week later
#940 2 years ago

Does anyone happen to have good pictures of the neck attached to the meteor cabinet? The head on mine seemed like it was tilted forward and I think it was replaced. Mine is a rectangle the same height on all for sides. If I'm not mistaken it should be taller in the front and the sides angled. I'd like to confirm that and the correct measurements.

Does anyone reproduce that neck section for the old Stern games? If not I know someone who does wood working and could make one with the proper measurements.

#943 2 years ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The base for the head does taper. Here's a few pics, remember the front piece needs a gap to keep the glass edge protected.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for the pictures. It confirmed what I thought. Someone replaced the neck on my machine and it isn't tapered correctly. It explains why the head was leaning forward.

I had to take the machine down to store it temporarily and noticed it. When I pull it back out to setup again I'll have to see about replacing it.

3 weeks later
#971 2 years ago

Can someone with an original power cord take a picture on how it is routed in the cabinet? Also, is it supposed to be a round cord or one of the flat ribbed cords? The one on my machine isn't right and I would like to get a proper replacement.

Thank You!

#973 2 years ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The cord is a flat ribbed on. It hangs loose in the cab and ties into the line filter.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you! Now I know what cord to pickup and how it should be fastened in the cabinet.

3 months later
#1082 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Can anyone upload a better scan of the lamp schematics table? The one on IPDB isn't readable... I've got a weird issue with all my wow lights flickering

Are you running LEDs on the original boards?

#1084 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

No Leds. It's just the four wows. Trying to figure out if there's something in common.
The weirdest bit is that they all flicker even with J3 unplugged, which supposedly is what one of them is powered by, if I'm reading it right. But that shouldn't be possible. So either the scan is bad or I've got a short somehow?

Definitely check over all the wiring. It is easy fro things to move around and you may have something shorting against one of the wires. Or one broken off and touching.

2 weeks later
#1103 2 years ago

Another option is to use a few of the comet flame/fire LEDs for the rocket exhaust. It is a nice effect.

1 week later
#1113 2 years ago

Looks like a nice machine! Meteor is a fun game. If the lights in the coin door shine up between the lockdown bar and playfield I have a fix for that. There is a post earlier in this thread that shows the new covers.

1 month later
#1144 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I joined the club today! Yay!!
I am having a problem, however. The lights come on and it is making a two toned sound over and over and not ejecting the ball. It keeps flashing "shoot again" on the backglass. Any ideas?

Can you pull the backglass and get a picture of the boards inside? It will help to know if you're running the original boards or have aftermarket replacements in there.

If you have the original boards is the battery still on the MPU board and did it leak? Battery damage is common.

You should also see a diagnostic LED on the MPU. When you turn the game on watch it and count the flashes.

#1155 2 years ago

If you have a Meteor with the original power cord could you get some clear pictures on how it is secured in the lower cabinet and attached to the filter box? Someone had done sort of a hack job and spliced in part of a yellow extension cord for power. I have the correct original replacement cord and would like to install that the way it was from the factory. Securing it in the proper locations with enough slack before it get soldered to the filter box. I didn't see any good photos that show the way it should be done. It may help others having good reference photos in this thread.

Thank You.

PW_1 (resized).jpgPW_2 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1160 2 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Does this help?[quoted image]

Yes! I was able to get the new power cord installed and secured just like it would have been originally. Thank you.

#1162 2 years ago

That is a great point you bring up.

I have gotten into the habit of checking the voltage difference between all my machines. Just put the meter in AC and check across lockbars on each machine. Found one with a bad ground and nearly 60vac between the two games. Replaced the plug on the bad cord and back to 0 difference.

My Meteor was properly grounded. It just had a yellow extension cord as the power cord. Now it has the correct long flat cord secured just like it should be.

#1174 2 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Has anyone used the Stern MPU-200 NVRAM Adaptor from https://nvram.weebly.com/ (bottom of the page) successfully in their Meteor? It replaces the U8 and U13 chips. I was thinking of putting one in mine so I don't have to mess with a remote battery holder.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have one in my Flight 2000 and it works great! No more battery.

#1177 2 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Meteor has compatibility issues with NVRAM chips. I used the Pinitech adaptor in all of my other games, but for Meteor I used the TNT Battery Eliminator: https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

Any other details on that? Is it something specific in the ROM code or maybe just a bad NVRAM module? My Flight 2000 has the same MPU-200 and it hasn't had any issues. The first time I powered up I had to clear settings and set all the adjustments, etc but nothing since.

1 week later
#1205 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Hello,to everyone,new owner here,was needing the decals on the drop targets>The ones that spell " meteor" does anyone know who sells these??Thanks,great pin!!


2 weeks later
#1218 2 years ago

I woul take out the whole assembly and test it on the bench. Maybe the gap on the switches is just a little too much.

2 months later
#1255 1 year ago

I was able to work on and test the whole assembly on the bench. Just used a variable bench supply to work the coils.

7 months later
#1515 1 year ago

It is important to check the switch with a ball to see if it registers with that. You could also try reseating the connector for the switch matrix at the MPU. I’ve had to rep in some of those due to weak and brittle pins.

#1525 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Perhaps it's time to re-cap that sound board. Easy job if you have basic soldering skills and a de-soldering tool as well.

May want to check the speaker too. I had to replace the one on my game. Helped a lot!

#1533 1 year ago

I have an Alltek in my Meteor and it runs and sounds fine. I think it is one of the later Alltek boards since it doesn’t have batteries. It was in the machine when I bought it.

I’ve since been able to get a hold of the correct MPU-200 and am going to get that back in the game. I’ll be able to use the updated code with that. Not an option for the Alltek. Just going to reserve that Alltek for testing.

#1539 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I found a few 4 ohm speakers that might be fine. I’ll try one in tonight.

Certainly someone would report this with alltek, if not I will if the speaker or amplifier isn’t bad

Mine had an 8 ohm speaker. I've seen both 4 and 8 ohm speakers in games so I would double check. This is the one I installed and it sounds great.

20200329_194518 (resized).jpg
#1541 1 year ago
Quoted from Y3AG3R:

Were you able to install LEDs without issue? I have the LED boards and some on the controlled lights still don't work. I also have some bad SCRs I believe so just replacing would save me time. Wondering about the LEDs though...

I've installed these with the original Lamp driver boards on both Meteor and Flight 2000 and they look great!


Color matched the inserts for the controlled lights. Made a big difference on Meteor.

I also used a few of these in the backbox GI behind the rocket exhaust:


It is a very nice effect!

Backbox on Meteor still has lamps but I moved to frosted white (not Super Bright) on the Flight 2000 backglass and will probably do the same on Meteor. I don't try to color match backbox GI since that usually turns out bad.

#1546 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

You likely replaced a working amp. The spinner sound cutting out is a known rom issue. There is a fixed rom that Stern released. You may have damaged a trace. Recheck your work and see if the traces go where they should. Maybe put the old amp back in.

Where did the new amp come from? Was it from ebay? There are fake parts out there and many just don't work.

Were those caps part of a cap kit? That board usually had axial capacitors. I've seen boards that had radials installed instead and I usually pull all those out and put axials back in.

#1548 1 year ago

If you can get the proper axial caps (there are several places that carry them) I would swap them out. With all the vibrations, etc of the machine it isn't good to have the large body of the cap just hanging free by the leads. If the board was meant for radial leads and the spacing matches then the are usually tight against the board and it isn't an issue.

You can try Great Plains Electronics, Big Daddy, Digikey, or Mouser and they all should have the right caps. First two may have cap kits.

#1550 1 year ago

Can you you post a picture on your Alltek MPU and a close up that shows what ROM version is in it? I have an Alltek in mine and it works ok. Plan on pulling it out and switching back to an MPU-200

Maybe you have an older ROM on your Alltek that just needs an upgrade.

#1552 1 year ago

I’ll see if I can get a picture of mine to compare tomorrow.

#1560 1 year ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I have a line on a project Meteor...the guy says it'll probably need new boards...
What is the story with Classic Stern boards? (my pins have been early Williams and I've just sent them to Eugene for bulletproofing)
I know that there is a light board that is needed to keep LEDs from strobing or ghosting.
I would assume that the power supply would be easy to recap.
What the are ups and downs of the various other boards out there?
(Also NVRAM...I've had Eugene put NVRAM on my boards...I assume it (or something else comparable is available).
Also, I'm aware of "new ROMs" for some "good, old GOOD pins, like, say Firepower. Are there new and improved ROMs for Meteor?

If the MPU doesn't have much ACID damage then I would rebuild it. There was a weird issue with the original Meteor code that didn't play nice with NVRAM but I believe the updated code slochar has done fixes that. You can run it on the original board or the Weebly. If you get an Alltek MPU your stuck with the original code.

I really like the original Bally/Stern driver boards and have rebuilt a bunch. There are some updates to add a few jumpers on the back of the board but they are solid once gone through. I often have to replace the .100" headers as well as the main 5V cap.

If you are going to replace any boards then it will probably be the rectifier board as previously mentioned. Those tend to be fried and there are several good replacement boards out there.

Attached is a picture of an MPU-200 that I recently repaired. It was damaged by prior repair work. Someone had pulled up a trace and severed a couple others. The final repair is shown too. It also had a bad 5101 and 6821 chip. Have a few others in the queue but those had battery damage and more traces to rebuild.

20200323_181831 (resized).jpg20200323_205404 (resized).jpg
#1563 1 year ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Thanks very much guys. I hope to be joining the club after this quarantine.

If you like drop targets you'll enjoy it. The game really grows on you. It's a keeper machine for me! If you have any issues with the boards I can help. I've rebuilt and updated a bunch and can verify them in the machine. I also have some shields for the coin door that fixes the issues with the LED's shinning up between the lockdown bar and playfield.

2 months later
#1597 12 months ago

You can totally tell it is a used playfield. Wear around the inserts and you can see the circles where all the posts were installed.

#1600 11 months ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

It's been in my Dad's garage for at least 10 years, and before that it was in a barn for who knows how long. I didn't think people were putting on their own clear coats 20 years ago. Just kinda confusing, because even now it's not a very valuable game to go to the trouble to strip the playfield, clear coat it, and put it back together. I mean it's a good game and it's getting appreciated more these days, but at the time this CC was done to it, it musta been a $500 game.

Maybe that it why they didn't go the extra step to touch up the artwork, etc. The circles for the posts should be hidden when the posts are re-installed. If you are going to all that work to clear coat I don't know why someone would skip those other steps.

2 weeks later
#1617 11 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I heard that the black ones disintegrate sooner as well.
I prefer the feel of traditional rubbers to the various "new-fangled" and wildly bouncy ones like Titan.
Having said all of that, red would look pretty cool, I think.
I'm kinda torn...there's a damaged "green" glass at CPR (has what looks like a 1/4 x 1 inch gash in the black above the credit window)...save $60 and touch up paint it myself? It would still be better than any glass I have now...undecided...

I typically use the white on all the games but went with Yellow (with blue on the slings) on Dr who and it looks awesome. When I refresh my Meteor I am leaning towards trying out colors. I think orange may look good (at least on the slings) and other colors that complement the playfield art.

#1633 11 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

What is the preferred battery solution for an original board...pros, cons...give it all to me.
I'd like to avoid AA batteries, even off board.
I'd like to avoid the NVRAM/ROM conflict.
What is the preferred fix?

While I think NVRAM is the best for running the alternate updated version of the code I think the question would be more toward what would be the best battery option to use so that any version (even original) will run on the board. For that I see a few options:

- Run NVRAM (limits use of original ROM's)
Great option for new code but if you want to start out with the original code or go back to original code then the NVRAM has to come out. (leave circuit as-is)

- Run the original style rechargeable battery. (not really an option and I wouldn't install one if asked...)
Just listed for completeness sake. Would leave the circuit as it.

- Use a remote AA battery pack with three AA Energizer lithium batteries. Plenty of capacity for long RAM retention.
Not a bad option but I would install a disconnect so the board could be easily removed if needed without a large battery pack dangling off. Board needs blocking diode added to prevent trying to charge the AA's.

The next two options are popular but the concern is that the MPU-200 has TWO 5101 RAM chips to twice the load. How much will that

- Use a large memory capacitor (easy to install, no other board changes needed)
A good option for some but I'm not a fan since I don't think it will hold settings and scores as long as I'd like and the extra drain with the 2nd RAM will decrease that further.

- Mount a coin cell holder for a CR2032 type battery.
I think this may be a good option since the batteries are easy to get, replace, and don't tend to leak. Have used them many times for people but just wondering on the current draw and life with two of the 5101 RAM chips. This also needs the blocking diode installed to prevent charging the coin cell. I would lean toward this option but would like to hear if anyone else is using a CR2032 on the MPU-200 and how long it lasts. If you're talking at least 6 months to a year then this would be fine.

#1636 11 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

I used Frank's Lithium Battery Board CR-2032 cell holder from TNT Amusements: https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/
It's extremely reasonably priced. I actually consider it free, and I paid $13 for an autographed collector card with Todd's mug on it.
Was fine for well over a year until I upgraded to the new ROMs and 7-digit displays, and now I run nvram. My entire collection is now running battery free, and Meteor was the last one to be converted.

Thanks for the feedback! I have several extra coin cell battery holders and can mount one right to the board and add the blocking diode. Just was concerned about it powering the extra RAM chip but it sounds like it shouldn’t be an issue.

#1638 11 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I soldered in a new rechargeable Li-On battery. The OG battery was actually holding up fine, but obviously it was time. What's so bad about the rechargable route?

The newer Li-On may be a lot better than the Nicad but I just don’t trust any type of soldered battery. Just fixed too many boards because of battery damage. Personal preference on my part. As long as you inspect regularly you’re probably fine.

#1642 11 months ago

Found this on a Stern Lamp driver board that just came in for Meteor. the one in my game doesn't have any mods like this nor any other lamp driver board that I've ever worked on. Going to strip this off and put it back to the way it was supposed to be and replace any bad SCR's, etc.

Have any of you seen something like this on a lamp driver board?

20200714_124808 (resized).jpg20200714_124822 (resized).jpg
#1655 11 months ago

On my Meteor I installed three Comet Flame/Fire LEDs behind the rocket/missile flames for the backglass. Attached is a picture where they were installed. I think it has a nice effect.

meteor-fire (resized).jpg
4 weeks later
#1658 10 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Does anyone have a link for a power supply rebuild kit? I can't seem to find one anywhere.


1 month later
#1713 8 months ago

I'd still opt for the solder version. If you do use these no solder versions be sure to go back and occasionally re-tighten the screws on those terminals. They can loosen up. Those are used on a lot of 3D printers an some have melted down because of poor connections there. I always check and re-tighten them when doing maintenance on them.

#1715 8 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Every time..

They're screwless connectors, not screw terminals. Another point of failure especially with the high constant current load on the lamp wires.

Thanks for the clarification. I would avoid that version then. If I had to use it I'd still solder as originally intended. I wouldn't trust those push connections.

#1733 8 months ago
Quoted from XPinPinball:

For those interested, these insert style terminals have a UL rating and to remove the wire once set, requires more than 5lbs of force to pull them out of the terminal.
I realize that there are others out there, I have used several over the years, all good. I decided to make my own because I like LED's under fuses to tell me if the fuse is good or bad......

Having LEDs under each fuse is an excellent feature and I’ve done that on many of my own projects. That is a huge plus and a bonus for easy troubleshooting.

The picture in the image posted wasn’t clear on the terminal connection and they looked like the screw terminal version. Screw terminals are well known to cause issues in 3D printers, etc. While the spring variation may be better then the screw version it still isn’t one I’d prefer to use.

Did you also have pads to allow soldering so this could be universal and use either termination style? If not, why? Having both would cover those who really aren’t a fan of adding another connection point to eventually fail.

While those spring terminals make this an excellent test board and I think I may like one for myself just for testing. Unless it had a solder version it wouldn’t be one that I’d permanently install.

1 month later
#1828 7 months ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

I picked up a Meteor this weekend from shabazz18 and want to install colored LEDs. Anyone have a good guide to what color LEDs to put in the backbox? I'm thinking orange for the meteors, blue for the missiles and orange fading to white for the Meteor logo and white behind Stern.

Actually just frosted white LEDS look best. If you want to dress it up a bit I added a few of the fire/flame LEDs. Just one under each rocket tail. Only color LEDs were color matched under the inserts

2 weeks later
#1877 6 months ago
Quoted from djd9617:

pinball_nate are those special flashing effect bulbs in your backbox?

I used a few of the Comet Fire/Flame LED's and put one under each rocket exhaust. Pretty cool effect.

2 months later
#1934 4 months ago

If there is a stencil set for the back of Meteor I'd be interested in one. Someone painted over the back and it's all black. Would be nice to restore that.

#1937 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I believe the company that makes the stencils, it has one for the back of the backbox.
Edit: Yup, see here: http://pinballpimpstencils.com/meteor/

They do and ordered a set do to the back of the head!

3 weeks later
#1958 3 months ago

How are you handling the sound? It mentions WAVtrigger but I didn't see any specific versions of that. It looks like there are a couple variations and would like to get the correct one to try.

Is that just installed parallel with the original sound board/speaker with a dedicated speaker for the WAV trigger? It seems that done like that you could easily switch between playing the completely original version and the new enhanced one easily.

Ordered all the parts (except the WAVtrigger) and can't wait to try this.

#1961 3 months ago

Will look for the notes on the new version. Should be able to update/modify the old carrier boards. Thank you for the update and explanation!

1 month later
#2024 52 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Didn't notice them until I read through that thread..and now it hurts even more.
Note: I didn't buy this from CPR, my friend did. So I never looked through any of the information (or even the listing on CPR) prior. Ultimately it's HIS game now, not mine. I'm hesitant to mention any of this to him because I worry he'll feel the same way if I do. Sometimes not knowing and living in bliss is better. But I'm trying to help him do things right by this machine as we go (IE clean up any hack job bullshit, replace gunky old switches, clean/coat/molex drop mechs, etc) and this kind of throws a wrench in things.
I reached out to Kruzman, and I posted in that thread..to see what kind of options I have to make things better. I was just going to have it recleared by a local guy I know and trust but with all of the other problems...I just don't know.

I thought someone in this thread made water slide decals to fix the missing numbers. If you're getting it cleared then you should be able to add them.

#2042 49 days ago

Have you tried to add credits? After changing the batteries I seem to recall I had to step through a lot of the setting and reset everything.

#2044 49 days ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

Robotworkshop I thought maybe I needed to clear the ram or the audit data or something. But, I can't see any way to do that, not online or in the manual. Do note, when it was acting strange I first took the actual batteries out, when that didn't work I removed the whole battery holder now, still no luck .


#2048 49 days ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

Robotworkshop now I guess I didn't search the right things, or RTFM properly
I will give this a try in the morning, thanks

It’s something we do so infrequently that most of need to go back and look at the book.

1 month later
#2082 9 days ago

You may be able to carefully round the upper outer corners on the two drops on the ends. That would provide the clearance you need. Practice on an old one to see if it will work and look good.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider robotworkshop.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside