Anyone have suggestions for adjusting these drop targets. I am having issues with some of them falling back down when they reset. It is not consistent but usually at least one falls down.

I have taken it apart and a previous owner replaced the actual drop targets. Everything seems okay mechanically and it works on the bench but not when installed. The drop targets seem to be pressing against the front of the wooden slot in the playfield and I am wondering if this is pushing them back. However, I am also hesitant to start trying to shift the whole assembly back in case it is something simple. My only other thought is that the springs pulling back the holding tabs are not in tension and may not be applying sufficient forward force to the drops when they raise. Any advise would be appreciated.

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Small Springs

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Targets up

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Targets down

That was my initial thought but I was hesitant because it either involves slotting the metal holes or filling and re-drilling the playfield which I was hesitant to do.

Thanks, I will take a look.

Manually, so maybe something is happening "at speed" that I can't see.

Off hand do you know what voltage it is? If not I can look it up in the manual.

Thanks for all the advice. I will try this out tomorrow. Just got back from a long drive to pick up a Spanish Eyes.

Well you were right. Even though they work manually they do NOT work reliably when connected. In fact they are pretty random. It is not just one target that fails.

I am going to try Mathazar's fix from his old post first and see if that works for me:

I must've fiddled with adjusting the reset bar a couple dozen times, shimming it, not shimming it, making sure it's not bent, etc. etc. In the end, it was sethbenjamin 's advice to clamp the plunger in the pulled in / up position and adjust the reset bar from there with the targets at a tiny height above the memory coil fingers (instead of adjusting the bar will everything is at rest) that did it. No more randomly falling targets on a reset, but I STILL had one target that would occasionally fall on the first reset, but not subsequent ones.

Well I think I fixed it. I was trying to figure out what to shim and playing around with it and realized that when I manually drove it I was driving it from the right side (opposite coil) and when I tried to manually drive it from the coil side it wouldn't work every time. The long bar that resets the drops has some slack and droops down near the "R". I loosened the shaft collar on that side and biased it up a little and then it seemed to work. I tested again on the machine and it worked every time.

I am happy it works now but am a little skeptical because it wasn't just the O and R on the end that were falling back down but sometimes the M so it doesn't really make sense that the slack bar was causing that. However it seems to be working for whatever reason so I guess I will just leave it. Thanks for the help.

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This is a fussy mechanism.

I am restoring my Meteor and my shooter rod has some wear on the chrome. I was looking to replace it but for some reason I can't seem to find an exact replacement. I am sure it is out there somewhere but does anyone know where to find these?

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Awesome, thank you all for the help.

I am rebuilding my Meteor and the power board next to the transformer was all hacked up, I replaced the board but I need to rebuild the connectors. I was hoping some kind soul could take a close picture of the wires on the connectors to the board so I could double check before I rebuild them.

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Perfect, thanks a bunch

There doesn't happen to be a diagram for the "E" numbers from the transformer to the board? I followed the new board directions carefully but it might be good to double check. Not all the transformer post numbers exactly corresponded to the directions (it said they might not) but I think I matched up the "E" numbers correctly.

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Thanks again

Sorry but can you guys sanity check this for me. I have a discrepancy. The instructions for the new board and the schematic have the E1/E2 Red/Yellow swapped. It seems like my red and yellow wires off the transformer are reversed per the instruction expectation. However, it seems like I should default to Lug 5/7 -> E1 and Lug 1/3 -> E2 regardless of wire color?

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Well I think the schematic is throwing me off. I went back to the original board pics and the "E" number and wire colors match exactly the instructions and the instructions say that the "E" number for the new board are the same so I think I should just match original color wire to "E" number and not focus on the transformer lugs or schematic. Per the schematic Lug 1/3 should go to E2 but in the original board Lug 1/3 (red) goes to E1 and this matches the instructions.

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I am rebuilding my Meteor and just wanted to double check. Is it okay to just straight replace the incandescent with LEDs? Do I need an add-on board or anything? I was also thinking of using Yoppsicles, I used them on my Paragon and it really made the playfield much tidier. I would test it but everything is torn apart.

Okay that is good. However for the GI they stick up into the playfield and I don't think the Yoppsicles will work well for that so I want to just replace with LED bulbs.

Perfect, thanks.