the spinner missing is a tough one, not always easy to find the right stern replacement...

I agree, they are cross compatible but i remember seeing a side by side comparison showing slight difference. I should actually pull one out from each type of machine and size/weight them

coin door and cabinet look good, PF have seen a good life. I think you right in writing off the MPU but you never know!

the MPU looks good from here, cut the battery off and you should be good to go, lucky!

the one thing I always do is replace the rectifier board and repin its connectors. Some $ and time but always save future headaches

I like the PBL ones myself, since i always order form there and it comes with the whole set of accessories

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Can you post a pic of the end result Zac? I am curious to see what it ended up looking like

wait so with the big bank unplugged all the machine coils are fine but when you plug the bank, all the coil stop working but no fuse blow? That is pretty strange since the coils are driven by their own transistor.
I assume if you desolder the bank coils (Voltage and groun wire) but plug in the rest of the bank then the machine coils work fine? That would isolate it to the bank coil, coil diode or wiring (backward?)...

Well at least it makes sense your "most likley" bank bad coil/diode/wiring must have shorted the under PF fuse or the rectifier fuse. I would check and replace those then unsolder the coils on your bank, plug the bank in without a connect coil and turn the game back on.

If everything works with that one coil off at least you have identified the issue at the bank coil.

that is weird, have you check if you get power to your coils from the wire directly? It would help to know if it a power issue to the coil or a grounding issue. Hard to imagine that it wouldn't be a power issue to the coils if none of them work. If you don't find your 43VDC at the coil, or any of them, then trace it back, if it is not the fuse, it could be fuse clip, broken wires, bad connector/pins, etc...

If you have power to all your coil but none work then that gets more complicated as there is serious logic issue from your SDB and MPU so none activate...

I always keep a copy of the instructions that comes with PBL rectifier board, I have also added a picture of my Meteor rectifier board cabling. The info should be in the manual as well but let me know if you need more info:

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The green wire coming out of connector J3-1 you mean? Those are playfield wires, looking at the Manual/Schematics
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1580/Stern_1979_Meteor_Manual.pdf
Page 35, It says General Illumination return for your backbox, i doubt that would be the issue.

Are you getting the 120VAC to the rectifier board? On J2-6 and 7? Any power on the testing point? Did you check the F6 on the rectifier board which is your incoming power?

i'll have to have a look but did your transformer has lug labeling on its wrapper? you can cross reference lug number to rectifier board position from the instruction sheet i posted earlier.

duplicate

serious tape job to keep that door close!

that looks pretty awesome... with an extra fan too?

the stern rectifier board on Pinballlife comes with full wire color schematics and connectors kit, it should sort out your problem

that's a cool idea, i'd defintely but some for fully restored project like QS, SG, Cheetah, Seawitch

i thought it was weird when i look at the picture, the power to the flipper coil is always on the outside, the banded side of the diodes, middle one is the other side of the EOS, and the opposite is for the ground. The power is often the one with the double wire to take it to the other flipper.
While on a double stack sw for the upper flipper the ground also connect to the 2nd stack that close when the flipper is up, moving ground to the upper flipper

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whoa i see it now, crazy! I was really wondering how that could work with the V to the center lug

and obviously taking the board out, it could be a connector thing but i would clear the audit first, reboot and see if starts fine, add some credit and try to start a game.

it may have been a previous version without the post, then was added later in the run, they made tons of those

Pinballife has the whole assembly though not the insert by itself:
https://www.pinballlife.com/star-rollover-assembly.html

i think i used replacement from pinballlife before but i am pretty sure they were plastic
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=grill

i may had that to my game when i go through them. i had a machine i bought where the knocker was missing but the spot where it was all nice and crispy, some of the wire directly above the it under the PF seemed to have gotten hot too...

wasn't Meteor type 1 plate like the older Stern? I guess if you get a full replacement assembly and not reusing the shooter shaft flipper bat then it should be fine?

for sure, most of the machine i worked on with gen 1 had at one broken plate on that narrow section :/

very cool!

bad MPU? original or repro? Any acid damage

if you have another one lying around, i would try to swap and test. See if you can confirm it comes from the MPU.

Talking about Weebly MPU board, is there a way to update the game code from an older board to the latest version?

i always forget about that...

not full proof but i usually like using the Titan db, the original manual are often wrong-

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/3087