(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

4 years ago



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  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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#3 4 years ago

Wouldn't mind adding one to my permanent collection. Meteor was the first pin I've EVER played, broke, and helped fix. When I was 10.

8 months later
#63 4 years ago

Apparently I'm a member.

I'm not sure if I lucked out or not, but $300 for a game. Pretty much sight-unseen. The backglass is in *great* condition, and PF is good at worst. The MPU needs to be replaced, battery acid, I believe.

I pick it up this coming Thursday, so..

#64 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Apparently I'm a member.
I'm not sure if I lucked out or not, but $300 for a game. Pretty much sight-unseen. The backglass is in *great* condition, and PF is good at worst. The MPU needs to be replaced, battery acid, I believe.
I pick it up this coming Thursday, so..

Yup. Apparently, I bought a Meteor. The owner wanted $300, and I couldn't really say no, even sight-unseen.

Picked it up today, and nothing majorly destroyed - just *extremely* dirty. Backglass is an B+ or A, and the playfield has no bare-wood wear, only some dirt ground into the paint up at top and insert edge wear. Amazingly, my QA label is still on the playfield - my game's birthdate, Oct 19th, 1979..
YhwVWXP_(resized).jpg

So, a couple questions - does everyone's game have this? 'Bat Power Control', hooked into the upper flipper:
svG7wB3_(resized).jpg

And what am I missing down here on the transformer pad?
CtknpOm_(resized).jpg

And, finally, I'm not getting my MPU to boot up. However, readong online, I should have a 'flicker' before the flashes start. I don't get a flicker - my LED goes on as soon as I turn the game on, stays on for a half a second before going out. Is that a 'flash', or is that the flicker? (I'll post a video tomorrow of the LED..)

#68 4 years ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Nice find. Mine was from January 1980 and I don't have the flipper control knob. In terms of what you are missing on the transformer board... The transformer is normally farther back on the spot that's faded... The rectangle in the back is the paper explaining the transformer wiring.

Thank - Yeah, I'm in the mode right now of trying to figure out what was added by previous operators/owners, and what's original. There are some strange things (but nothing hugely wrong!)- like an empty lamp socket not screwed down, no bulb. No clue as to why it's like that - couldn't replace the bulb, or maybe the SCR's stuck on? So, the apparently 'flipper power control' is the biggest (possible) non-factory thing that was added. My driver board was replaced by a Bally-labeled one, though the MPU and other boards are Stern. Someone, at some point, removed the battery and added a 3-AA holder, but I do not think they added a diode to stop the charging. D'oh.

Until I get past the booting issues, I won't be able to check the lamps/switches etc. The rocket targets all seem to work fine by hand, the Meteor targets, however, are sticky and the mech will need to be cleaned.

And thden I'll need new rubbers, bulbs, *possibly* playfield glass and legs, at least.

#69 4 years ago

And here's a question for everyone -

Anyone know the two different sizes of star posts? Some (like slingshots and up by the 'METEOR' targets) are *slghtly* shorter than the ones out along the edges of the field. I needs to get a handful of new ones (or each size!), and would hate to get the wrong ones, or two handfuls of the same size..

#71 4 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

Can the lamp sockets in the bonus lights be replaced? I have a few that are flakey but don't see how they can be replaced. If so, does anyone sell the sockets? Or does anyone sell the whole bar with the sockets?

I think those sockets can't be replaced on the bracket - would need to buy 6 or 7 individual sockets (which are still sold..). IMHO, i wouldn't replace the bracket, and go for individual sockets.

#76 4 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

No problem. I wish someone would make a circuit board version like they did for the old KISS.

I was actually considering this when I posted my reply. I may make up a board, for kicks. Don't think it'd be worth it in the end, though.

#77 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I was actually considering this when I posted my reply. I may make up a board, for kicks. Don't think it'd be worth it in the end, though.

Okay, question - since work is real slow, I threw together a board outline. But figured I'd ask ya'll - if you're interested, what you'd prefer:

(1) A single board for the three rockets, or a board that only handles one row of the rockets. (The latter, one extra board will get you the spinner lights, as well..!)

.. and ..

(2) How to connect the wires? I can either: (1) make simple solder pads for each wire, (2) give each connection a single-pin molex header, or (3) A single molex header for the whole board? (1 would require soldering wires in. 2 would require crimping on a header. 1 & 2 would require no wire cuts - meaning you could jump back to the old style easily. 3 would require trimming wires and crimping on a header.)

--Me.

#80 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

A PCB for the rocket lamps would be nice. I would prefer a header pin type connection. It would involve adding wires and crimping but I think it would look better when done. Only neg I see is that the PCB would have wedge base twist in sockets? Those are typically 555 lamps and they do run hotter than #44 lamps.

Yeah, that's one of the downsides. There are no 'screw-in' bayonet bases. There are a couple solder-in #44 bases, however, that would mean that: (1) Longer standoffs are used, which are harder to find unfortunately, and (2) when a bulb goes, you'd have to remove the whole thing. So, I went with the same ones used on WPC games, so that they'd be interchangeable.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Going back to the beginning of when you posted pics of your transformer, It looks like the transformer was replaced with a different one. It should be stamped 16B on the top. This is where you need to start, check voltages at the rectifier board's test points and then the solenoid driver test points. The game will never boot if it doesn't get 5V and 12V. It also needs the coil voltage for the 7th flash. If the sound board is working, the game will chime with every flash of the MPU, the flicker doesn't chime and is very quick blink og the LED.

Well, I made progress since then. My MPU is a little strange in the fact that the first 'flicker' isn't a 'flicker'. It's more of a 1.5 to 2 second fade. Turn the game on, the LED instantly comes on and a hum eminates from speaker. After about 1.25 seconds, the LED will quickly fade off, and the hum will diminish. Then the first blink comes.
My problem was - I wasn't sure if that first on time was 'the flicker' or the first flash. If it was the flicker, it meant my 5101 chips were bad. So, I just got a used MPU off of here (I posted a wanted ad) and sure enough - if has a quick flicker and flashes. So, I snagged the 5101 chips, plugged them into my board, and yup, it powers up. So, I have a (mostly) working game. A *LOT* of bulbs out, broken drop targets... all rubbers were removed (waiting on new ones to arrive now). All coils worked, haven't gotten to the flippers yet.

#82 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

One of my Meteors had the the lamp socket mod where you solder the control wire directly to the center tab of the socket. Look at pinwiki. It's a lot of work but it's reliable since the connection goes directly to the bulb, eliminating the current to flow from the solder tab to the bulb. This is where they fail because over the years, the insulator dries out and shrinks, causing the bulb to stay loose and not make good contact with bulb tip. Remember, controlled lamps are switched through the ground side of the circuit. The positive voltage comes from the trace wire under the pf. So basically the base of the socket is the hot side.

Yeah, I saw that. Honestly, I'd rather go the easy route (for me?) and make a small board to mount in there. Since I don't plan on LEDding it out (at least for now, I haven't seen any good LEDed Meteors yet..!) I would hate to have to unscrew that specific row to get to a single bulb.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

I'm glad your game is running now, yeah sometimes ya gotta spend some cash. It's odd that the you only got 1 flash. usually it's 2 flashes when 5101 is bad. The 5101 sockets are subject to corrosion if the battery leaked, it's a good idea to replace them as this may give you more trouble down the road, usually when you have people over for a pin party lol.

*Was* working. I swear, I have hte worst luck as a tech. Was great when I was getting paid for it, but now.. arg.

New rubbers showed up today, as well as the NVRAM card. Pop out my 5101's and pup in the NVRAM. Turn game on, confirm it boots, and all's good. Turn game off. Start putting in new rubbers. Most of them go in alright, but find out that dumb-arse me ordered too many 1.25" and no 1"'s. Luckily, the 1.25"s fit just well. (Does anyone's machine actually follow the manual layout for rubbers around the upper flipper?) Flip switch, and.. .nothing. No hum from speaker, no life whatsoever. Arg. Getting voltage at the cable, and the .. (crap, I can't remember the name of it - small silver box back at the back of the cabinet. Traffic control cabinets use them too, but they're muxh larger. I just can't remember the name right now..) Anyways, getting power at the power switch input. Nothing on the output side. Seriously. I somehow *broke my game's power switch*. Holy carp.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Check out Pinball Life for the flipper mechs.
I'll be restoring my Meteor next year. The pf is currently getting restored, I have a NOS back glass and cab stencils. May try to have a cab reproduced since mine is rough.

My BG is in really good condition, with only a few scratches in it. My PF is useable - a small worn spot in one of the rocket's white exhaust, so it's not noticeable. However, a LOT of planking. I have it all waxed now, and it's smooth as butter - but you can feel the 'planks' as you draw your hand over. I was going to wait on getting PF done to see if CPR was going to reproduce them.

Next on the job is to rebuild all the drop targets & mechs. (New ones on order..) Then I'll attack flippers.

While I'm thinking about it, does your (or anyone's, again) game have an unused GI hole in the back of the playfield - one on either side under the large arch plastics? Mine have holes, but no sockets. Was curious if that was normal.

--Me.

#84 4 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

I actually prefer the 555 screw in sockets on a board like WPC. I run LEDs (using 2LED frosted) so it doesn't matter if they run hotter. I would like it if you added a resistor to the circuit. Or at least, the holes for them so people can do LED mod.
Would you do the METEOR lamps too?
I would prefer three separate boards. would be nice if they screwed in the same holes.
A single connector would be cleaner but not reversible.
Not sure if the METEOR and Spinner lamp banks are the same width (I think so), but if so, you could run a six lamp board and a 7 lamp board. Then you would need three of each for most of the lamps in the game.

The spinner and rocket lamps are all the same distance apart. (The spinner just wouldn't use the last socket, same as it is now with the metal brackets.) So one design of the board could be used 4 times and handle the rockets and spinner. Another board would need to be done to handle the Meteor targets - different light spacing. D'oh.
I thought about the resistor, but the difficult part is being able to fit the board next to each other - the space required would make them a very tight fit. I should have a drawing for a sample board tomorrow or Friday to show, in either case.

I'm swapping my time between actually working on my game, trying to get it up and operational, to my actual job and these boards. Fun!

#89 4 years ago
Quoted from Spamman2k:

I just joined the club! yay! my play field looks real bad, other than that it plays great. from what I see in this thread, it looks like I will be having a hard time finding a new play field :-/

13120429_1163832296992243_246220804_o_(resized).jpg

That looks like the one that was at the Gettysburg auction last weekend.

CPR *may* be doing a repro run of them; they're taking votes now - you can so submit your vote at:
http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html

Quoted from Lovef2k:

I think this could be a good switch replacement: ebay.com link
The silver box is a line filter and the red thing on it is the MOV or surge suppressor. These rarely fail, I only replace them when doing a full resto.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

I'd like to see how these come out and will buy if you make extra. On my first Meteor, I just replaced all the rocket lamps with new single mount sockets and it was alot of work. Also tight with not much room to change a bulb.

Thanks, I'm seeing if I have a switch laying around, if not, I'll order that. Soimple switch. Just.. surprised and annoyed that.. somehow I broke *that*. Sheesh.
And yeah - seeing the other replies, yeah, I could just directly solder them. My main concern is having to remove the whole thing to replace a bulb, moving it may cause wires/solder points to fail again. So, I should have a drawing of a board up soon, and I may order a set for myself to try out first, then either make the PCB file public (so you can go make your own) or order them if folks want. I'm not planning on making any money off of them. (No need to..)

#90 4 years ago

Quick question -
Will these new drop targets work? (On right. Note the long ridge under the three, down the center of the shaft. My original doesn't have it, and the small half moon is what catches and keeps the target up.)

IMG_20160428_210058_(resized).jpg

#92 4 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

The left one looks like a Bally drop target and the one on the right a Stern.

You have GOT to be f*ckin' kidding me.
After I posted that pic, the top of the 'R' DT came out of the game (it was broken in half, one of the reasons I ordered new targets) and IT matches the one on the right - the new ones. I went online to look at other drop targets for 'stern' (i.e. Marco's) and they all match the one on the right as well. I also found a drawing of the assembly, and mine looks almost identical - the ONLY difference is that in the pic (ref, here: http://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/D-393-3-L/large.jpg ) the switches seem to be mounted on the bottom. Mine are on the back. But all the brackets look to be the same.

Can anyone get a closeup pics of one (don't matter which rocket #..) of their assemblies? Would love to use it for reference.

I'll try reassembling it with the new targets, but I'm not sure what catches the target to hold it up. Currently, it's the small half-moon at the taper. If the small extension there is supposed to hold it up, that may be a little too high out of the playfield? I'm not sure. I'll give it a try tonight.

i swear, this game is gonna make me go bald.

#96 4 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

All of my Stern Drop targets look like the one on the right with the long ridge. The chiclet/tombstone ones and the hooded. They rest on a metal ledge that is on the inside of the mechanism under the playfield.
Inside_Drop_targets_(resized).JPG
Drop_switches_(resized).JPG

AH! hah!
Thanks! That answers it.

On mine, that bracket that you say they rest on, is mounted the other way - the flat is up against the bottom of the playfield. And my switches look just like yours.

I can't even guess to say how this happened, and.. would probably just get a headache trying to figure it out.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

The one on the right is the newer stern style, circa 1980, started on later run of meteor. Some of the later Meteor had these targets on the upper bank. To use the the newer (hooded style) you need to change all of them to match. The earlier flat targets is called "chicklet" style. What is the T you need? I have extras...

Thanks for the information. My game's dated Oct '79, but there's no way of telling what previous owners/operators did. And thanks for the offer - I don't need any targets, I actually bought a complete set (all 15), since they all were horribly worn, replaced, or broken. I just was comparing the one I took out to the one I put in (before dismantling everything else) and then noticed the style/ridge difference.

--Mike

#99 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

It's not Bally, rather early Stern. A Bally target will not work in a Stern DT bank. If you look at some earlier stern such as Hot Hand or Dracula, you will see these "chicklet" targets.

Interesting. What changes were made in the assembly to support these? Anything other than flipping the top plate?

I went ahead and reassebled my #3 Rocket assembly. I reversed the top plate and installed it. While it *technically* works, I do NOT like these targets. First off, they sit lower, so the artwork gets cut off. (And, if the artwork was higher, it'd be visually cut off by the top lip of the 'tombstone'.

Here's a shot of my new #3, and an shot of the existing #2 -
IMG_20160429_220703_(resized).jpg
IMG_20160429_220651_(resized).jpg

Unfortunately, I don't have a choice right now, as all the DT banks - except for #2 - had broken or missing targets. D'oh. So they'll all get replaced. But I'll be looking for new targets in the 'chicklet' style. Heh.

#102 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That's a good question, but sorry I don't have an answer. I'm not sure if they changed the mechanism along with the targets. My theory is that they made the later targets with the lip on top because the flat ones were often getting broken from hard hits. The hooded target seems more robust. Now the numbers sitting low on the pf could be another issue. Is it possible that the 3 is stamped too low? I have an NOS number 3 target here and the 3 is about 1/16 below the underside of the lip. When I have a chance I'm going to measure the 2 styles side by side and see what the difference is. Also where did you buy the repro targets from?

Be interesting to see what you measure. ALL of my targets are low (I've now done the 1's and 2's, and they sit low also.. The 'METEOR' targets I'm working on now.) I compared a good tombstone target from the METEOR stack to one of the new ones, and they looked similar - the body of the old one was taller / longer, which made it stick out of the playfield higher. But like, a fraction of an inch. That, combined with a lower ink on the numbers could very well cause this.

And, sorry to everyone else for flooding/spamming the thread with my drop-target issues. Honest. If someone wants to post LED pics or something, feel free.

#110 4 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

Yes, but my Stern chiclet/tombstone targets have that same ridge.

I just finished going through the 'METEOR' targets. They (both chicklet and tombstone - they were mixed) all did have the ridge - the ridge sits on the coil latch for release. These - the new ones I got - also sit a lot better on these than putting the ridged ones in the rocket targets. Strange, but I'll take it for now.

#115 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yes PBR and classic arcades also sells them but I don't know if his are from the same mold. Another PITA is "bricking" with the repro targets, but that's a whole other issue. Also the memory coil release levers have to be tweeked on the METEOR dt bank.

Dumb question - what is 'bricking'?

And yeah, when I put in my new targets, I had to adjust both the springs (tighten them) and the release coil latches - had to lower them a *touch*.

#116 4 years ago

Oh, another dumb question -
The ribbon cables from my sound board (two of them) have 1 less pin than the header on the MPU. (So there are two unused pins on the MPU..) What's the right orientation for these?

Played the first game on my game since I brought it home. Flippers need to be rebuilt, switches adjusted, but it's solid. I'm happy with it. Had fun playing a game. Not bad for a $300 game.

#118 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Bricking is when you hit a drop target dead on and it doesn't drop. Notorious Stern thing. I think it is more with the repro targets being more flexible than original. If your game has sound, leave the ribbon cables alone. There are unused pins on the J5 header of the mpu. IIRC they are the 2 far right side. My Meteor is all apart right now so I can't tale any pics.

Ah! Huh. I'll have to keep an eye out for that.

I had to disconnect the cabels when I was working on my MPU, and just never reconnected them. Now that the rebuilding is done on the DTs, need to finish hooking up the sound. Thanks.

#121 4 years ago

Thanks - got it! I guess the IRQ from the MPU (pin 34) isn't used? Seems odd, but hey, what do I know.

#133 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Also looks like you are missing the instruction card (am currently redoing all of mine).

Meteor_transformer_instructions_(resized).jpg

Actually, I have that one - it had been pushed back into the back of the cabinet - I found it after I took my picture. I have all of those sheets that Lovef2k has - though I'll likely take him up on the deal once I go to rebuilding and repainting my cabinet.

I'm still working on the lamp boards - it's a little more difficult than I anticipated, due to the small size (width) they have to be to fit in along side each other on the rocket bonus lamps. I leave for California in a couple days, so I likely won't be able to continue laying out the board until I get back.

#135 4 years ago

Is the 'Ball in Play' lamp behind the backglass supposed to be 'always on'? Wondering if I have a short in my lamp driver board..

#137 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

No, only when game is active for the specific player, probably a shorted scr, easy fix. If you go LED then you might as well buy the Alltek lamp driver board since it has a jumper to eliminate strobing. Jumper connects to the feature lamp bus inside the backbox behind the lamp/display board to the Alltek board. I see them all the time for $99.

Okay, thanks. I'll probably be getting a new board, since in addition to that one stuck on, I have a handful that aren't lighting at all.

#143 4 years ago

Looking good!

What black did you use for the base?

1 week later
#162 4 years ago

Hey guys -
Come cabinet questions...

Were the legs stainless or grey-painted?
Anywhere to get new legs?
Will newer leg plates (mounted inside of cabinet, that bolts screw into) work in the cabinet?
Any place have new siderails?


-Mike

#171 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

While waiting for paint to dry, time to tackle the rectifier board - will replace with a new PinHead board

What is a "PinHead" board?

#185 4 years ago

Was Meteor's door textured like that? Mine's stainless..

#196 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have never seen a stainless coin door on a stern. I know the early games like wild fyre and stampede had a grey painted door non-hammer tone, just smooth. Post a pick of it.

Okay, I was wrong. Apparently, it was textured grey. However, because of it's age and something some previous operator did, it's feels sanded smooth and done up in silver. I can feel the texture in the paint, but it's real light. I mistook it for stainless until I got close enough to study it.

#198 4 years ago
Quoted from Willathrilla:

Having the same issue. I tried shortening the springs, they're a little better but still not good.

Quoted from SealClubber:

Has anyone had an issue with the repro drop targets not staying up? If so, anyone know a fix?

Curious, how do your targets sit? Is the text cut off on the bottom, on the playfield?

#200 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Something a little different...

Looking really good! I may steal that in years to come when I rebuild my cab..

#205 4 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

That cab look great.
Yes my letters are a little cut off at the bottom.

My repros sit like that, and mine fall off too, see below..

Quoted from Willathrilla:

Here's how mine sit

Yours look perfect. Next time I go downstairs, I'll need to compare how high your text is on the targets - it's possible my text is just lower than it should be.

I did notice that my targets, *in general* are lower than they should be - when they're down, they sit below the playfield. Occasionally a ball will get stuck in this lower section, resting against a target that's up.

Mine fall off sometimes - when reset, maybe 80% of the time, one (usually the 1st 'E') will fall back down. Getting the reset coil to go higher may help - I'll have to try this. Not necessarily for the actual *height*, but more time for the target to 'settle down', fall forward and hold against the memory latch.

#206 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Is the 'Ball in Play' lamp behind the backglass supposed to be 'always on'? Wondering if I have a short in my lamp driver board..

Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, thanks. I'll probably be getting a new board, since in addition to that one stuck on, I have a handful that aren't lighting at all.

For the record, on my game, the 'Ball In Play' isn't controlled, it's part of the GI. I thought that's strange, but.. owell.

#207 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yeah it was probably repainted. The rustoleum hammer tone silver is almost identical to the original finish. It takes some practice getting the hammer effect to spray evenly. It's great for the legs as well.

Good to know! Once I finish with the PF and move on to the cabinet, I'll give it a shot.

#211 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Busy weekend - coin door fully restored. Will buy a new lock since the plating is falling off.

Woah, woah, woah... No coin lock-out coil?

Quoted from Gryphun:Also replaced the speaker and polished the metal.
This speaker was recommended to me since its 8ohm, 92dB sensitivity, and response range is 70-9kHz - perfect for the highs, build up, and lows of meteor.
My daughter picked the color for the speaker mount (she wanted it to match the purple on the back glass)

Interesting to see how this speaker sounds..!

On another note - is there a replacement MPU board available that still USES ROMs, and isn't an all-in-one like the 'Ultimate' board?

#216 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Nothing actually, I don't know why he raised his price so much. Still even with either Alltek or Twobits, there's no free play option. Only Free play on Bally games. Coyote doesn't want the Alltek so that's my only other suggestion. Heck, for the money you can have the original MPU rebuilt if it's worthy.

Yeah, didn't realize it was that expensive. I'll keep my original board. There was a reason, but at the moment, I can't remember what it was. I'm getting old.

#220 4 years ago

Idiot question guys..

I got new flipper assemblies since mine are so out of whack they're unsalvageable. What is the part # (or link to) a switch that the lower right flipper uses on the EOS switch to activate the upper right switch? And, what switch should be used on the cabinet for the flipper buttons?

#222 4 years ago
Quoted from setzkor:

You order the standard EOS switch that comes in the rebuild kits, and add-on a Bally EOS form A (BLY-ASWA-1045). I got mine at PBR, Marco also lists them.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A10-45
You have to stack the switches on the same screw as the original.

Got ya, thanks!

Last stupid question for tonight - did the Meteor originally ship with red flipper buttons, or white? (My game has one of each, so..)

#225 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Mine were white. Soon to illuminated red

Quoted from SealClubber:

I think original were white but red looks better IMO.

I'm leaning towards the red. What're you using to light them up, Gryphon?

#227 4 years ago

Wow.. clean flippers. All mine are toast - wouldn't surprise me if they're original to the game, so I decided to change them all over to the WPC type. If anyone wants the old mechs, send me a message here..

#236 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Ordered a couple of these right after the link was posted.

You go for white, or a color?

#246 4 years ago

I hope you guys don't start calling me an outcast now..

....Sorry.

IMG_20160530_172046_(resized).jpg

#253 4 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

I will probably do that to all my future Bally Sterns. Replacing the originals is expensive.

Quoted from Chosen_S:

They look good, how is the game play?
And yes... Do you use the fat stern/Bally bats?

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Did you use the OEM Stern bats?

I actually haven't played it yet. I ran into an issue with the bats - Of the three bats, I have two different kinds, and I'm not sure which is normal, but only one type will work -

The upper one has the screw-in base, to hold the white bat. The shaft looks too long (which makes me think this isn't normal for this game), as the set-screws weren't in the bat's recess. The two lower ones are one piece, and the set-screws set into the recess at the bottom of the bat just fine. However - the issue is that with the lower ones, they're *too short* for the new flipper pawl to get a grip on. (Short ones are 1 7/8", the longer one is 2 1/8"..) So, I need to order new bats.

Issues I ran into weren't as many as I thought -
1. The second switch on the EOS doesn't fit. The BR flipper has a switch to activate the UR flipper. There's no (safe) way to get a dual-switch stack on the WPC mechs, and have it operated by the pawl. So, I 'hotwired' the UR flipper feed.
2. The UR flipper mech had to be rotated - it wouldn't fit in the same location as the old mech. And then rotated, it interfered with the spinner. So I had to grind a mounting leg off to clear the sppinner. You can see it in the picture - I added some electrical tape for safety - didn't want anything shorting +40v to the switch circuits. Wiring was then an issue too, but that was an easy fix.
3. I also went with the LOWEST WPC flipper coil on the top - since the distance is *so short* to the Meteor targets, I figured a FL-11753 would be fine - once I get new bats in, we'll see how that strength does.

So, now I have to wait for bats to come in. I'm *really* anxious to try it out. The old mechs were pretty much horrid. I got all three mechs, with the high-power EOS switches, proper stops, and coils for about $35 a piece from Pinball Life. So, I'm in about $120 with shipping.

--Me.

#257 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I just rebuilt my flippers and the longer shaft is for the top flipper.

On purpose? Whatever for?

The Marco repros all have the longer shaft, so I ordered them, and will drop them in as soon as they arrive.

#260 4 years ago

Update on the flippers -

Well, I'm really glad I did it. *HUGE* difference. If you're not a regular player, you likely wouldn't notice, but I could easily tell - a lot smoother in action and snappier.

Now, keep in mind that my originals were *horrible*, likely. I doubt they were rebuilt in the last 20 years. However, I *really* like them now.

The choice for the FL-11753 coil on the upper flipper was *perfect*. With standard EOS gap, it's perfect and not too strong for the drops.

The *down* side is that I ordered these flipper bats - http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3994-5 They have the right length shafts (2 1/8") - remember, the lower ones in my game had 1 7/8" shafts, and were too short for the flipper pawl to grab on to - BUT the body of the flipper - the bat, is actually a few mm's WIDER than the originals - so I get a little bit of ball-hop coming off the wire guide. Even with that little hop/bounce though, ooh, I blew my old HS out of the water.

I also sent off for the first round of light boards earlier today. Anxious to see how they fit in.

#269 4 years ago

Interesting, thanks guys. In either cadre, the older - shorter shafts - will not work with the WPC mechs..

#273 4 years ago

Hey guys -
Random question of the day. On an original MPU-200 board, for the dip-switches, which was is 'On'? Left, or Right?

I tried setting some game options recently, and have noticed that the game's actual operation is different than what I have selected. (Both game options and coin options..) Reversing the switches, still get something different than what I *should* be getting.

Wondering if I have an older ROM version..

1 week later
#303 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Finally have some time to continue working. Soldering, not the cleanest I've done but good enough for now.

Neat.. Looks good!

Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

In the club! Just picked it up today, it's working but needs a major cleaning. Nice back glass as well. Paid $575....Score!

Good job! Looking forward to pics!

First test light boards came in.. And they look good, they line up better than I expected:

IMAG0016_(resized).jpg

#307 4 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Is it possible to snap a close, detailed pic of how your flippers are wired? I tried to install one of these new flipper mechs on the left flipper. I must have wired it wrong because when I tried to flip, the solenoid fuse blew. I threw a breaker fuse to test and am now getting nothing when I press the flipper button. I will also need to order new bats because I didn't know I needed the longer shaft for this upgrade when I ordered my parts. Do you have a link to the correct ones?

Sure, see this. Note that I wired the EOS in to break the Common, NOT the power feed. This shouldn't give your sky grief though, you may have a bad diode on your coil..

IMAG0023_(resized).jpg

IMAG0022_(resized).jpg

#321 4 years ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

What angle degree do you guys have/like your Meteor set up to?

I keep mine the same as my TZ - between 6.5 and 7.

#323 4 years ago

Question -
Who has a 7-digit display mod installed?

Is there a ROM that will still report numbers in 10's, but not flash/display "000" when a game starts?

#333 4 years ago

Quick small update...
Parts came in for the light boards. I assembled them. Unfortunately unable to mount them in game yet, as my screws were too short.

Here's an image showing one all together with light sockets, one together without, and the back of #3.

Spacing of the boards in the game is VERY tight - mainly because the sockets are wider than what's in the game. I may try adding a spacer in the middle to support the board. But because the circuit traces have to run down the sides, it may not be possible. The two-pin headers are for the conmon/power wire, and both pins are connected - save with three populated 2-pin header at they other end. Help wiring that common.

Unless I have a lot of interest, I may not offer these up. It's about $11 per board, not including the headers and spacers, and assembly. Since you need four for the game (3 rockets, 1 spinner) that can add up. I am going to get a quote from another manufacturer that can also populate the board, and see what they want and price breaks

-Mike

IMAG0039_(resized).jpg

#335 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

What do you think total cost on a complete set is?

Just did the math, and the parts and PCB (from a low-run producer) would be max $35 a board, so you're looking at a whopping $105 for three, $140 for four. Again, max. I'm adding in base shipping charges to this - the more I order on the same order, the cheaper shipping works out to be. But, I figure it's better to go over and then run under than it is to go under and have to say 'oops, more!'. This also dosen't take into account any of my time assembling.

The biggest cost is the board - at $15 a piece, that's just about half of everything. The twist sockets are next, at $4.50 per board (7 of them), and then the spacers are $1.10. The spacers kinda tick me off, as the black ones are out of stock everywhere and I can't find a non-pin supplier that sells spacers. The ones I selected I can get from Digikey.

I originally made this board so that one version could fill the 4 slots. It may be cheaper (and I'm going to find out) if ONE board covers all three rockets. I'm also going to contact a PCB manufacturer/populator and see what they quote me at - a larger quantity may be cheaper.

In short - because of the cost, I don't think it's worth it. Now, I may look into making a board with LEDs on it (RGBW LEDs, to allow warm white and colored spots of light under each insert..) but that's a ways off, and I'm not sure I'm LEDing my game yet.

Edit: Looks like if I get enough boards to do 5 games (20 boards), I can get the price down to just under $7 a board - half of that cost. That's not bad..

#341 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Would it be possible and more cost effective to make a single PCB for the rocket inserts? This would eliminate the need for insulators between the boards and allow the 3 rows to be closer to each other.

Yeah, can be done. I'm working on a board now to test. Again, though, the downside is that the board would ONLY be used for the rocket lights - couldn't be put into the spinner row of lights. The larger size board means that the single board would cost more than a single small board, but hopefully it won't be 3x the cost. :

Quoted from Lovef2k:

This would also bring the mounting spacers and screw count from 6 to just 4 of each...

Not 100% on that - with all the light socket holes, the board flexes. I'm tempted to leave all 6 spacers in when running it this way.

#344 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Games that use these lamp boards don't usually cover all of the inserts anyway so I would be happy with just getting the rocket inserts on the one board. That's where most of the congestion is.

Oh, yeah, sorry - I meant that with this current design, the SAME BOARD would be used 4x in one game, for the 3 rockets and #4 for the spinner. If I moved to the larger board, then yes -

Quoted from Chosen_S:same here, Coyote, if you plan to do a run of these, count me in if you need buyers to get the cost down for a "kit" of sorts for the rocket inserts
suggestion to get them printed on a thicker wafer, so maybe the flexing isn't so much ?

I can try going thicker - problem with that are the standoffs, then.

#348 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Ok gents. Running into an issue. Couple things to keep in mind - new Alltek mpu, rectifier board + new connectors on J1, J2, J3.
Machine starts up (led blinks 7 times then go in haze - normal operation for Alltek board).
I can self-test and go through different audits via test button on coin door - all solenoids seem to be working except game will not start and all flippers are dead.
Any ideas? Thanks

In test mode, if you hold down flipper cabinet button, do the flippers pulse after the coils all fire and before sounds play?

Do you have a credit on the game?

In switch test, does pressing the start button register?

3 weeks later
#366 3 years ago

I haven't been able to work on these much because of summer projects, but I finally got the three boards mounted in the game, just so I could play ut. Here's a shot of them installed (not wired yet).

I'm still working on the 21-light board. Should have a proto of it near the end of Sept.

IMAG0073_(resized).jpg

#368 3 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

I am reading 45 volts on pin 1 J2 on the SDB. Pin 2 is reading 95v, is this correct or should it also be 45?

I'll check later tonight, once I finish getting my boards in and can power it up.

#369 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I'll check later tonight, once I finish getting my boards in and can power it up.

I forgot to reply - I got a reading of 40v on both.

#370 3 years ago

Random question - Does everyone's games keep the Bonus Lights and Rocket 3 Bumper as their last status from the game, with no light show?

1 week later
#378 3 years ago

Since this thread's been quiet for a while, I figured I'd check and get thoughts -

I'm working on the 21-light board (instead of the 3x 7-light boards) for the Rocket Lights, and torn between two options. Figured I'd see which was prefered -

(1) A board with the cutouts for the 555 sockets, or
(2) A board with 5050 LEDs for the inserts (color TBD), and with an optional resistor to use with original boards?

The #2 would be cheaper (believe it or not, the LEDs and assembly would be cheaper than the twist-sockets). I COULD do both for those interested, but they would be a LOT more expensive because of split resources.

--Mike

#380 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I'm game for either type, sorry, I'm no help '

That's cool! Better than a vote for 'neither'!

Something I always wondered about the game -
What's the significance, if any, with the rocket counter colors? How come all the colors are unique, except for #1 and #5 (white)?

#382 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

What's the significance, if any, with the rocket counter colors? How come all the colors are unique, except for #1 and #5 (white)?

Quoted from SealClubber:

It looks better when lit up and in attract mode than just plain white?

Nono, I mena, wy did they choose those colors, and why would they duplicate 'white', and none of the others? (i.e. Was there only 6 colors in use back then? )

#384 3 years ago

Okay, another three stupid questions..
(1) Can someone PM me (or post here, if you really want) on how to recreate the 'infinite bonus countdown' bug?

(2) When you get all three rockets at the same level, 'WOW' is lit. I've noticed a couple times now that when WOW is lit on a rocket drop target, *sometimes* when the ball hits the target, the 'WOW' will not be awarded, but the rocket count will raise up. (Almost like the game is increasing the rocket BEFORE evaulating 'WOW', and since the rocket was raised, WOW is unlit and not awarded.)

(3) Can someone familiar with the 7-digit mods send me a PM? I have some questions that I haven't been able to find online.

Cheers!
-Me.

1 week later
#392 3 years ago

Hey guys -
I lost one of my bookmarked sites, and searching doesn't come up with it, so I'm at a loss -
Somewhere there was a site on how to convert a 6-digit game (like our Meteor) to a 7-digit, using original 7-digit glasses. There was an extra wire that had to be run from a board to each of the displays.

Anyone have details on that, or know of the site that has info on that?

Quoted from dothedoo:

Okay, another three stupid questions..
Only middle target scores WOW. Frustrating when you align all rockets and all center targets are down.

I missed your original reply, sorry - but holy crap, I did not know that. That increases the difficulty like, 3 times. Thanks!

--Mike

#394 3 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Okaegi explains how to do it in his Embryon write up.
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

Thank you! That was the page I had bookmarked!

#396 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Just want to let anyone who wants to know, a fellow pinsider is taking interest for making repro side rails for early solid state sterns. If he can enough interest to make 10 pairs, he will do them. I'm in for 2 pair.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/38592

Interesting - are side rails not available? (I haven't looked, but I know I'll be needing them..)

(Whohoo.. shipping from Canada, too..!)

#399 3 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Would TaylorVA not make these?

Huh. I thought we were talking about the cabinet side-rails, not the playfield ones.

#401 3 years ago

Huh. True, but the ad also states that there's a 'pair' of them. On Meteor, we would need three. (Shooter lane, then left & right.)

#403 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Just want to let anyone who wants to know, a fellow pinsider is taking interest for making repro side rails for early solid state sterns. If he can enough interest to make 10 pairs, he will do them. I'm in for 2 pair.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/38592

Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Would TaylorVA not make these?

Okay, to clear up the confusion -
He's making the cabinet side rails - the plates that are on the outside of the cabinet that the glass slides into. These are NOT the wood rails on the playfield.

Taylor doesn't do metal.

#404 3 years ago

Hey guys - two part questions -
1. Anyone have part numbers / diagram for the dead bumpers in the game? I don't see the assembly listed in the '81 Parts Manual.
2. Is the pop bumper supposed to be B-196-1 or B-695?

#407 3 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

It's not the B-695. That's the pop with the plastic base and plastic rod/ring used in games 1980 and up. I think Seawitch was the last game to use the pops with the metal base.
The B-695 base will not fit the hole in the playfield. You'd have to either make the hole larger or grind down the circumference of the base.

Thanks! I didn't have my game in front of me, and couldn't remember which it had.

#409 3 years ago
Quoted from erichill:

I just ordered new dead bumper bodies, skirts, and bases from Pinball Resource and these were their recommended parts:
2 dead bumper bodies (GTB-25A)
2 yellow dead bumper skirts (A1217Y)
2 pop bumper bases (B10432W)
Obviously some Gottlieb substitutions in there, but all looks to be correct. Haven't installed them yet.

Many thanks! Somehow one of mine had its body break at the base, so figured I'd get all new parts.

#410 3 years ago

Okay, another strange question -
For the coin door config - was there a standard on coins accepted? Any options available when purchasing?

1 week later
#412 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Any update on the lamp boards?

Probably another month or so before I get first test ones in. It's been slow because of work (And wife and I splitting up..)

But, I have two protos that I'll be getting done - one with 5050 SMD LEDs (same units that are in most bulbs for sale out there), and one that has the screw in lamp holders.

#414 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Sorry to hear about the marital thing, that's gotta be rough. I appreciate what you are doing for the Meteor, I'm sure it will work out.

It was mutual, we parted on good terms, and I wish her the best. Just means my projects were delayed because of logistics.

2 weeks later
#420 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have a restored and clear coated Meteor PF on the way! Will post pics when it arrives, hopefully on Monday.

Awesome! Who did the work?

Unrelated - have a general question for all owners here - if you could add or changed ONE RULE to the game, what would it be?

#423 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

It was done through a pinpal that I have known for quite a while, I don't even have the guy's contact info. It did take more then 6 months to get it though. As for Meteor rules, I'm not into changing rules but I would like to have the roms with the bug fix and go to 7 dig scoring.

Looks good. I'm debating between getting mine restored/cc'd or waiting for CPR.

On another note, I'm afraid to ask - has anyone seen the movie this game was made after?

1 month later
#454 3 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Maybe someone will see something I don't. Does this look correct?

I'll look tonight, once I get home. I did this to my game recently, and had no issues. So, if noone gets back in the next three hours or so, I'll compare it to mine.

On mine, the only thing I did differently was take out the upper right flipper switch - since I couldn't get enough room on the EOS switch to handle cutting in the upper switch.

#456 3 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Maybe someone will see something I don't. Does this look correct?

That looks right comparing to mine.

Check the diodes on the coil.

#459 3 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Would activating the flipper with a broken diode cause the trave to burn up?

Could, certainly! It would effectively short to ground then.

1 week later
#470 3 years ago

IMHO - stick with the OEM 'alternate' ROM. The /10 ROM is okay, but my OCD can't stand not having a score end in '0'. The 'Home' ROM is buggy. There's a newer version, mostly under testing, if you're interested send me a PM. But frankly, the OEM 'alternate' is an official Stern release that fixed the unlimited bonus countdown.

#472 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

What did the home rom change?

The one that's posted, I don't know. I know the guy that made it, and when I asked him, he said it was buggy as heck, and recommended not to use it.

#475 3 years ago

Odd request -
Can someone measure the board size of the display (6-digit) PCB, length and width?

#480 3 years ago

Thank you so much! All I have are 7-digits in mine, and the previous owner never wired in the 7th digit. D'oh.
Working on a custom, personal board for the displays, as I wait for the letest revision of the rocket light board to come back.

#481 3 years ago

Silly question -
Can the WMS/Bally leg brackets (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144) be used in the Stern cabinets? A couple of mine are stripped, and I'd like to upgrade, stiffen them up.

#484 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

You can but you will have to remove the wooden corner braces in the cab. I tried using this on F2K and the corner braces were a little too wide for the brackets to fit flush on both sides. Of course removing the wood braces will weaken the cab structure so maybe try making smaller braces and glue them in first and then add the new leg brackets?

Thanks! I'll go ahead and get the correct one for now, and then once I re-do my cabinet, I'll upgrade them all.

Another silly question - was the game *supposed* to have blinker bulbs in the backbox behind the 'METEOR' name?

#485 3 years ago

Okay, apparently I'm just going to spam this thread, as well. Sorry guys.

Got the new light board in from the PCB plant, and I have an important question -
How important is it to have built-in resistors for putting LEDs in?

The current design has two spots for a resistor network that can be soldered in, if you want to use LEDs with an original board. However, the latest board didn't work out as they're in the way of the screws to mount it to the playfield. So, either I make the board larger - sticking over the screws on either the top or bottom to fit them, or remove them completely. Right now I'm just thinking that I'll remove them (anyone that uses LEDs will likely put them in other sockets as well, which would require use of a newer light driver board..)

#495 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I don't think the resistors are necessary. Since the rest of the playfield doesn't have them anaway, I just use the Alltek lamp driver and you can add all LED's no problem. Someone also made a mod that firs on the lamp driver board that adds resistors at the header pins, either way you want to go. Pluus waht would happen if it did have resistors and you want to use standard lamps?

Yeah - originally the board wouldn't have the resistor soldered in, allowing the end-user to solder them in. But, I agree - hundreds of other ways to tackle it, so, one more board ordered, make sure it works out. Excited.

Re - the flippers. Am I the only one that upgraded to the WPC flipper mechs?

#498 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Cool, I can't wait to get one of these boards. Die hard Stern fans will leave in the old junk flippers lol...

This board took me a LOT longer than it should have, because of other projects (including a new MPU-200 board I'm messing with, and messing with adding rules to the software..) In the meanwhile, while my TZ keeps kicking my ass and making me angry, I have always jumped back to my Meteor.

#501 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Think I just got the Meteor software bug today...
» YouTube video

Yeah. Plug in the ROM set labeled as 'Alternate'. It fixed that up.

#508 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

"This game does have a software bug and it's even copied onto the Altek boards. Every couple hundred games or so if you have the 1X, 2X and 4X bonus lit and end the ball the game will go into an (almost) endless loop of counting the bonus over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over 255 times then end. Just an FYI."
My game has an Alltek....

Oh - with an Altek then, I think you're stuck like that.
The most common 7-digit ROM has the bug, as does the /10 ROM.

The bug isn't necessarily dependent on the spinner, but does have to do with the Bonus X and the 'Collect All Rockets' light on the outlanes -
As I understand it, the 'Collect All Rockets' routine saves data to a RAM location that is right adjacent to the Bonus 'X' save location. If something CPU intensive happens, a race condition will occur where the 'Collect All Rockets' code will save and then clear a value as another thread is trying to read the Bonus X. The Bonus X thread will then get an incorrect number (255), and think that's your bonus. It will then count down your rockets (even if you have none) from 255x. Interestingly, how the lights are stored in RAM, you can watch the 'Game Over' light on the backbox switch on and off - that light, essentially, is your '8x' bonus light.

The ROM set listed as 'Alternate' is officially released from Stern, and it changes the RAM location for one of those two functions, avoiding the collision.

#510 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

This always annoys me. Seems to me like the altek eprom should just have all the rom images in it, so if I read it, find the image, and replace it and write it back to the rom, it should work, but I tried to find the Hot Hand rom image in there when I was modifying it and couldn't find it. Even if it's in some weird format, couldn't they have at least left an empty socket or something?

I completely agree. It's why I won't get one, and why I'm making my own newer MPU-200 board. (It's in the works, but plan is to allow larger EPROMS for easier burning and more program space, as well as more RAM space to store data. Meteor uses ALL the available RAM, save for a couple nibbles (total of 1 or 2 bytes..) So adding anything is very difficult, and is where the above bug came from.

One of the things I wanted to add was code to allow the 'Meteor' (pop bumper) to 'fight back' - when the ball hits the pop bumper, one rocket bonus will be *taken off*. Muhaha.

#512 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Sounds cool! Is there any notable limit to how much the 6800 can support with modern EPROMs and ram chips? I'm not clear on exactly what the size limitations of the Stern boards are, but I know they're pretty small...

Essentially, the unused portion of the addresses in an MPU-200 board means that the game code can take just under a 27C256 (32kb) in size. (Total available EPROM address is $0 - $EFFF) When these boards were made, only EPROM space available was four 2716 or two 2732s (8kb total). Meteor's ROM does not have much empty space in it either- there's maybe 1/4 left available. So, more EPROM space (plus, ability to burn the image to more common chips like a 27C040) and more RAM space (doubling by 2/3rds.)

Sorry, I'm rambling technical.

#514 3 years ago

I went ahead and ordered final versions of the lamp board. I got three of the incandescent (#555 twist-in socket, used in all DMD 90's games) boards, and I ordered one all-LED board, using the same LED units as Comet's '5050' LED bulb. If there's enough interest, I can get a handful made, but cost is on the upper-end. (If I have 10 people, cost would be about $70 a piece. Higher with less people, lower with more.)

By the end of the month - likely after the holidays, I'll be able to take pics and show them, once they arrive.

1 week later
#517 3 years ago

Holy crap. I way, way underpaid for my game.
ebay.com link

And apparently, Meteors are hard to find!

#519 3 years ago

The new lamp board is in! Whohoo...
IMG_20161215_201404 (resized).jpg

IMG_20161215_201334 (resized).jpg

Two potential issues with it still, which frankly bugs the heck out of me, but..
The first is that the mounting holes for the standoffs - I designed them over what I had on hand originally, way back on the very first go-round. The ones I had on hand were NOT the WMS/Bally black ones that they used in the 90's. I dunno where I got these from. The black ones however, are smaller and don't lock into the hole. Argh. So I need to either find ones that will fit, or get another round of boards made with the holes shrunk down some.
The second problem I can't test until I have standoffs. I believe my mounting holes are maybe .1" too wide from top to bottom. I can't double check until I get standoffs. It's possible it will work, just be a tight fit.

With the holidays coming up, I may not be able to proceed on this until after the new year. But, honestly, if I can (1) find standoffs that work, and (2) the holes aren't too far off-center, then these boards are good.

I have an all LED board coming in, supposedly sometime next week, but we'll see.

#521 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Looks pretty good so far, I like having a single board over 3 separate boards. Do you have the lamp bases, I assume they will be wedge base type? Is there a schematic showing the pin outs? I noticed 8 mounting holes in the board, will we need to use all 8? I'm thinking something like this will work? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5032-01

I can supply lamp bases with the board - they're available straight from Digikey as well. Same bases (or at least, they're compatible) that are used in M/W WPC games.
Pinouts are really simple - there's three headers, one for each Rocket. Pin #1 on each one is for 1k Lamp. Pin 2, 2k lamp, etc. The two-pin headers at top are for the lamp bus.
You don't have to use all eight. You can use as many as you need to to hold the board in place. The six on top and bottom line up with the existing mounting holes. The two in the center were just so that a stand-off could be inserted to keep the board from flexing too much. (Though, testing it, they won't be necessary. The single larger board is a LOT more sturdy than the smaller 1-rocket boards.)

The single boards also fit for the 6 lamps under the spinner, which once I get the proper standoffs, I plan on using one of mine for. (Might as well..!)

Also, a bump: CPR still has the Meteor as 'looking for interest'. If you haven't signed up for a playfield, please do so. The more of us sign up, the sooner it'l get bumped up! http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html

2 weeks later
#530 3 years ago

Hope everyone had a great holiday!

My second "test board" came in while I was out. I'll try it tonight or tomorrow..

1483490626065 (resized).jpg

1483490646555 (resized).jpg

#534 3 years ago

For the record, the coin door blue 'credit' button label that Marco sells is *not* metallic. It's horrible.

I was already pretty much writing off Marco - this pretty much sealed the deal.

#536 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I noticed that myself. I get them from the Pinball Rescue.net, the same guys that might someday get the meteor plastics done lol. I have an extra I can mail one to you, PM me your address. Oh and the Marco DT decals for F2K suck too!

Thanks! You're awesome! I'll PM you, though no rush - I ordered it since I'm thinking about tackling my (horrible) coin door next month, but haven't started yet.. I'm looking into available methods to recreate that.. marbled(?) look.

For those interested in the LED board above, I opened a poll - curious to get thoughts:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-lamp-board#post-3530754

1 week later
#538 3 years ago

Thank you, Lovef2k! I have to get my door off, and disassembled before painting, so it'll be at least beginning of spring, but, I can't wait. I did pick up the paint; and yeah, it looks really really close!

For those interested in my light board, a question -
I like how the LED board came out - so much - that I'm thinking that I won't even worry about making the incandescent board. If anyone here was thinking about getting one from me, and not wanting the LED board, drop me a PM, lemme know.

#540 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I like the LED one but if a lamp goes out will we have to replace the whole board? Also will we need to run the alltek LED/lamp driver to stop flickering/strobing?

In theory, a single LED shouldn't fail. If it does, say, withi na year (usually when most LEDs die a premature death), I'll send a new board as long as you send the old one back so I can replace the LED. Unless you can solder large SMD, in which case I'll send you a few replacement LEDs.

The final revision will have a jumper, so that in the case the light board doesn't draw enough current for the lamp board, you can solder a small jumper on and make it compatible. (Or, if using a new lamp board or LED adaptors, leave the jumper off.)

I'm also narrowing down the right standoffs to use, so in a couple weeks I hope to have everything put together for my final test board.

1 week later
#544 3 years ago

Strange question..

What ever happened to Steve Kirk after he designed Meteor?

#550 3 years ago

Hey guys -
Wanted to give an update on the Meteor lamp board.

First, good news!
I'm going to be sending off for two more prototypes. Decided to have another proto run, as I wanted to add a couple things:
(1) Wire solder points, so those that do not know how to crimp a molex connector and don't want to cut their wires can still use the board.
(2) Load resistors, so that, in the odd chance this is the ONLY LED board in your game, you don't need LED adapters or another lamp driver board.
I'm going to want one person here to test the board in their game for me. Don't PM me yet! Wait until I post here near the end of Feb once I have the board in.

Now, the bad news.
After this prototype, assuming that they both work, it will be several months before I will order my first round of them. The main reason is because of ... money! No, I'm not broke. HOWEVER, 2016 was a bad year for my company, and I did not get the expected bonus. I have two big road trips coming up this May. Beginning of May I'm heading up to Cedar Rapids, IA, and at the end of May I'm heading out to Willits, CA. I live on the east coast. I need to make sure that my accounts have enough balance in them in case the unexpected happens along 'The Loneliest Road' in the middle of Nevada.
Once I get back from my trip - around the 15th of June, and again assuming these last protos are good - I will get a batch made and available to everyone.

Just wanted to explain the upcoming delay.

#555 3 years ago

Another quick question on the lamp boards -

Would $60 a piece be too steep for a single Rocket lamp board? I'm looking at getting various quotes right now..

#562 3 years ago
2 weeks later
#567 3 years ago

Look what I got today in the mail!!

Whohoo!

IMG_20170217_184642 (resized).jpg

#572 3 years ago

Quick thoughts on comparing the two. Not saying anything is better or worse, just stating how I see it first:

- Printing method is different (obviously! We're talkin' 35 years here!). Because of this, though, there's a lot less overprint on the new plastics. My old ones had overprint, not noticeable when the GI was off, but when back-lit, it was. The new ones don't have any, of course.
- The registration of the colors is spot on - much better than my original plastics. On one of my back arches, the white was HORRIBLY off-registration, and I didn't even know it until I got these..!
- The orange color is lighter than my original when backlit.
- The light purple (pink?) color is lighter on the repros, both front-lit and back-lit.
- The repros are thinner, by a *fraction*.
- The repros post holes were a little tight on mine - likely because my originals were just worn.

Now, my opinion?
These. Are. Awesome. I'm thinking of ordering a second set, just to have. Plus, now I have a plastic to hang on my game's keychain!

Quoted from zacaj:

Either of you got intact left sling or upper arch plastics you no longer need?

Drop me a PM.

#573 3 years ago

Argh. Would help if I uploaded the pics..

Backs - the original is on the right.
062PkQi (resized).jpg

Fronts, the original is on the left.
MzCrqyN (resized).jpg

#575 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

So there's no protective paper on the back side like CPR's?

I will admit.. I have no idea what this means or is. (Never got plastics from CPR, and OEM plastic sets, when ordered from WMS, never had anything except the peeling film on the top.)

The plastics came with a film on the front - you can kinda see it in the light reflection in my very first picture. I took that off before I went through them and mounted them in.

#577 3 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

The plastic above the upper flipper on mine is broke. Can I buy yours?

"Above" the upper flipper? Do you mean above as in up-field (at the METEOR targets), or the one that's over the standup target and spinner? If the former, then sure! If the latter, then no - mine was shattered, and is now in the trash.

#582 3 years ago

Hey, guys -
Noone gives a flying monkey about it.
MSCH, MorotCityMatt - who cares. Let him sell the game for whatever he wants. If you OWN one, you WANT him to sell it for that much, because it measn then yours is worth more.
Gryphon - Drop it. You're a marine, ignore it.

Jeez, don't bring that crap here. If you HAVE to fight about it, take it to PM, *please*.

#589 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Coyote,
I think $60 would be a great price point for the lamp board.
In addition to this board have you also considered a replacement board for the lamps next to the "meteor" drop target bank?
You could offer a replacement set. Just a thought.

Actually yeah - I have the schematic ready, just haven't measured out and laid out the board. Same with the lamps for the spinner and the three bonus X lamps. Will probably NOT wait until they're all ready, and release them as each one is ready.

1 month later
#599 3 years ago

For all you guys that just joined the club..

Welcome!
Now get your a$$es over to CPR (http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html) and sign up for the Meteor PF. We need to get it in the pipe!

1 week later
#601 3 years ago

Just a quick update on the lamp boards..!

I have the final test board ordered. I should get it beginning of May. *However*, like I mentioned earlier this year, I'll be out of town on two road trips (first half-way across the country, second all-the-way across the country).

So, I won't be able to test it until mid-June. However, I'm expecting it to be good.

Right now, I will be making a single board for the rockets, and another board for the spinner lights. After I have those done, I will do a board for the METEOR drop lights.

After that - no plans. If someone has an idea, open to it. Right now, the boards that ARE going to get made will be a limited run (mainly because, I'm a poor bastard, and can't afford to order a huge stockpile )

1 month later
#674 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Any updates on the LED boards?

Will let you know this coming weekend. I just arrived back in town Saturday, and have to catch up with missed work and unpacking this week. If the electrical characteristics work, and match what I requested, then I can start offering them, and it will make the spinner board and the other boards ('bonus x', METEOR drop boards) much quicker, as I don't have to worry about production.

Will post, probably this Sunday, a few pics and video of them. This means that next week I will be waiting on a larger-order quote.

#676 3 years ago

I'm not expecting any surprises, since I checked resistor values, voltage and current one final time before sending this board off.

The ONLY thing I'm curious about is that this board will have solder pads, so that if a user wants to, they can directly solder the lamp wires to the board. (Instead of getting a molex connector and crimping them on.) While I don't expect any issues, it's possible that they will be unuseable in one form or another.

#678 3 years ago

AARGH.

I must have *the worst* luck with ordering PCBs. Maybe I need to try a different manufacturer.

So the last two days I went over the board - everything was A-okay. The only odd thing was the warm-white LEDs - they were different from the cold-white ones:
zqkCfqh (resized).jpg
They had black fronts to them. I kinda liked this, actually! So, after checking all the resistors and traces, the board looked really good..

Until I plugged it in.

All the warm white LEDs were... *RED*.
Argh!

While I'm waiting to hear back from the company that assembled it, I'm going to go ahead and contact a couple Chinese manufacturers, and start process to get quotes on larger amounts of boards.

--Mike

#680 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Bummer, but you're heading in the right direction. I applaud your efforts.

I thought I put this reply here, but it ended up in a different thread.

Anyways, they're working to make it right, and I'm not expecting any issues, since again, I had tested everything outside of the game.
I had sent some quotes off to Chinese places, and after this debacle with the current company, I'm thinking of going the Chinese route.

From the initial quotes I got, looks like I can get the main rocket boards down to $50-$55 a piece, not including shipping. It's possible it will be less - but also possible it will be more. However, that looks to be the average right now.

--Mike

#682 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Curious, what percentage seems to be labor vs BOM, any idea?

I could have SWORN I replied to this. I must be going crazy!

Anyways, it seems to be a mix, though a lot is labor.

The percentage of the Chinese price of the US price is -
PCB Manufacturing - 8%
Parts (LEDs, etc) - 153%
Labor/Assembly - 24.8%

Interestingly, parts are more expensive, but the PCB cost is decimated, literally. Labor is a quarter of the US price.

While I'm finalizing repair of the mid-assembled board, I went ahead and started messing with it, and noticed something I thought I'd see if folks here wanted to chime in.

I'm NOT a fan of the super-nova LED lights.
You will notice that your Meteor game has three different types of transparent inserts - the completely cloudy, like the 'WOW' and 'SPECIAL', and MOST of the Rocket Bonus (all except 3k). Then, there is semi-transparent - the in/outlanes and 'Spot Target' inserts. Then the mostly-transparent, like the Shoot Again insert and the Rocket Bonus 3K.

The brightness of the LEDs I based on the transparent inserts - looks, IMHO, perfect. However - the same brightness under the opaque inserts (the rest of the rocket bonus) seems on the dim side compared to a Comet LED bulb in another socket.

So - since I haven't put in final order, would folks have an issue if the LEDs were different brightness? To cut down on the transparent (3K) inserts? Or would everyone prefer them all the same, and just notice the transparent ones brighter than the rest?

1 week later
#687 3 years ago
Quoted from spandol:

So, I found I have this bug. Have gotten it a few times. Can someone point me to where I can get updated ROMs that fix this? Anywhere I look doesn't show a changelog.
Thanks.

Changelog? These assembly guys didn't even know what a changelog WAS back then.

You want the 'Alternate' ROM set - that was released by Stern at some point, and it has the issue fixed.

#689 3 years ago
Quoted from spandol:

Thanks. I can't find this though. Do you know someone or place that could burn it for me? I could buy the set at Marco, but it doesn't list if it's this version. Any placed I looked didn't have any info that showed this. Any help would be appreciated!

I can, if you ask nicely enough.
It's in the 'ROMs' zip file, labeled 'U1A'. The other ones remain the same, aren't different.

#692 3 years ago
Quoted from spandol:

If you would be able to burn it for me, I'd really appreciate it. Of course I'll cover the cost.

Send me a PM.

3 weeks later
#694 2 years ago

Hey guys, wanted to give an update on the lamp boards!

The company I (was) using corrected their mistake, took a month to send me a new one. And ON the new one, a couple LEDs were dead. (Bad solder job.)

So, I'm not going with them.

However, while I was waiting for them to fix their mistake, I contacted a few Chinese companies, and got some quotes. They were cheaper, of course, and interestingly, manufacturer time is the same as the company I WAS using. (About a month.)

So, the price should be around $55 for the board. And this board will be the most expensive, due to the size. I'm currently waiting on a couple sample boards form them, and when I get them and test them, they'll be available for sale, then a month later when the full order comes in, the rest will be available.

Shortly after THAT, then, the spinner lamp board should be ready, as well as the Bonus X board.

--Mike

#697 2 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Hi Mike! Thanks for all of the hard work you've put into this. These boards are really great and I look forward to buying when they're available.
This is a minor criticism, and I mention it only because it's something important to me and I imagine many others here. It's not really something that you can do for this production run, but may come into play in future projects.
Personally, I'd be willing to spend a few more dollars for a product made in the USA or Canada. Your project is unique, so beating out the competition pricewise is a non-issue.
This community can help connect you to assemblers that are contributing to our local economies and producing a reliable, affordable product. It unfortunate that the first supplier was unreliable, but as someone with experience with overseas assemblers, I can tell you that quality issues are a problem everywhere.

If anyone wants to send me details of US PCB Assemblers, I would be absolutely more than willing to talk to them, get quotes.

For baseline - and I don't mind sharing prices because I am NOT a company, I AM NOT trying to make any money -
The prices I was quoted, per board and NOT including shipping from Chinese assemblers was $42 a board. There WERE some low-baller companies ($18/board!) but they did not want to use the LEDs I specified, and I could not guarantee the brightness or LED quality, so I did not pick them.

The company I was using until the odd messup gave me a quote of $68 per board. Taking into shipping, the large board would be upwards of $90 a piece.

Keep in mind, I'm also not ordering *thousands* of boards - for two reasons, namely: (1) I can't afford to make a payment of $5k at once! And (2) - I highly doubt *thousands* of people will want these. My orders are for 75 boards, which I feel is an amount I can probably move before having them statrt to collect dust. And I could be waaay off on that.

So, anyways, I ramble. If anyone has some assemblers, I'd love to get quotes from NA, and hopefully get them low enough to where they'd fit in the price point. (My guess is that the sweet spot for the largest of the board, the Rocket Bonus, is around the $60. Any more than that, and people will just clean their lamp brackets and put in comet LEDs. Or at worse, buy new lamp brackets/sockets.)

Related, I am also VERY, VERY anxious and want CPR to pick up the Meteor playfield. I had some thoughts about Meteor ROM, a small PIC, RGB LEDs in the rocket bonus area, if I could get a field with all white inserts. (Use an unused address/output to send commands to the PIC to flag what's happening, and switch RGB colors..) But this is all a pipe dream. Emails to CPR go unanswered, and they're not even planning on making the field, so.. *shrug* The only thing here that I DO have is the disassembles code to add in catches and set outbound addresses.

#699 2 years ago

Yeah, I'm not discriminatory! Forward info, and I'll get quotes from them.

#702 2 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

I've seen good prices from 7pcb.ca as well as miselectronics.com. ocmmanufacturing.com is local to me but I don't know much about them.

Thanks! Once I finish up the Spinner board, I'll get quotes from them. I'll post results here, too, for comparison down the line later.

1 week later
#706 2 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Sure, it would be nice to have a comparison. There are so many vendors for this work and once a reliable/affordable one is found then we can all throw them some love. And cash.

While I agree with your thoughts, the problem is is that most people vote with their wallet. (And, I do too - often. I ain't immune to it.)

I have the Spinner and Bonus X boards just about done. Once they are, I will get quotes from those above, see what they offer.

On another note, I will admit that I am *quite* surprised by the current company that is making the Rocket LED board. Not only have they worked with me on a couple issues (logistics, clarifications, even helped define and explain a procedure that I hadn't run into with the earlier producer I had (the one that messed up the last board..) On to top that, they have *literally* been sending me daily updates.

A shot of the sample board they're sending me is attached. There IS silk screen on it, but they weren't aware that the red ink isn't fully opaque. Apparently, noone ever ASKED for Red on Black before. So, they refunded me the price of this sample board (essentially getting it for free) and I'll be changing the ink color on the full run. This picture (and a handful of others) were sent on this morning's (their evening) daily update.. The board is finished, now they assemble the parts onto it.

One of the changes I'm going to do is slightly round the corners. They look far too sharp in this image.

IMG_4157 (resized).JPG

IMG_4166 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#709 2 years ago

Hey guys -
I posted an update in the thread I started, and will likely try to keep all updates there (because I'm so scatterbrained that if I don't, I'll forget to post, double-post, or just do something crazy.) But, the board is finished and on a slow boat from China. (..Literally.) I'm rather excited. I'm no professional, and this is the first thing I've ever 'mass produced'.

Anyways -
My real reason for this post is to ask -
What is the 'PAA Sticker' on the IPDB Meteor page? Where did it go? My game doesn't have one, and wondering if I should worry about getting a replacement.

--Mike

#712 2 years ago

Huh. Mine looks like it was never installed. (Or, was an apron from a different game.)
Thanks guys. I accidentally posted about it in my light board thread as well, d'oh.

1 week later
#719 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Looking for spring 5A-171 - drop target return springs. They are out of stock at Marco with no "sample" spring to run a comparison, and action pinball they are stupid expensive. Does anyone know of a substitute part number? They are 1" at rest and there are a bunch of parts that look like they might fit the bill (#265-5003-02) but could be thicker, thinner, etc. My google-fu has failed me.

When I get back from NYC this weekend, let me check my past orders. I ordered some at the beginning of this year, and don't remember who I got them from.

#725 2 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

You could always pick one up and then wait to see if CPR pulls the trigger on the Meteor playfield.

WHich means -
If you (anyone!) hasn't signed up for a playfield, DO SO!

2 months later
#754 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

OK, so I never heard of this bonus bug until this weekend when my Meteor was used in a major tournament and it happened at least three times! My game has the 7-digit display mod and software. So I am trying to find a ROM set that has both the 7-digit and the bug fix in it.
Doing a little investigation of the ROMs on IPDB, it appears the bug fix only modifies U1 and the 7-digit fix only changes U2, U5 and U6. This leads me to believe that if I combine the U1A ROM with the U2, U5 and U6 ROMs from the 7-digit fix, I will get the 7-digit scoring with the bug fix too???

You can try. I haven't tried that to be sure.
I have a beta version of a 7digit ROM (completely rebuilt on 7digit OS instead of hacked), but it has other bugs at the moment.

#756 2 years ago

I have the same issue with those targets - I believe that you need to adjust the stop (not the targets, but the bar that the targets rest on, to make them push up a little farther.

3 weeks later
#770 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Any updates on the ladder LED board???

While the LED boards are complete, they're on a temporary pause right now, as I'm working on something better, with help and permission from herg. Something MUCH, MUCH better.

#777 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Oooh, this could be interesting!

Have some testing to do which should be completed before the new year, and then - IF THE TESTING PASSES, I'll pop up an announcement.

#779 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Ok, should I replace flippers with WPC or just brand-new Stern-type? Is there really a difference in how the two feel/play?
-Nate

I did, but many folks here say it's a bad idea, not keeping original to the game.
I like it, but I'm also the odd one out, apparently.

#789 2 years ago

Re: Dead bumpers.

That's correct for the game, IMHO.

1 month later
#809 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Any updates or sneak peeks?

Heh. Not yet. Since new year's, I've been really busy away from home. I have to do some more tests with my mess, and if it's successful, I send out to have a prototype board made. Hopefully by the end of this month, I should know if it's doable.

1 week later
#815 2 years ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

I had to strip a Meteor recently (BAD termites) so if anyone is looking for specific parts to this game let me know

If you have a good spinner (artwork better than 50%), I'll take it. Mine's trashed.

Also, a reminder for folks!
Meteor playfields could get remade! Go sign up at CPR's site!

1 month later
#835 2 years ago

Possible those other sets of holes are used for kickers? (Slingshots, pop bumpers?)

1 month later
#870 2 years ago

It's a combination of things to happen, and it's because of a single memory address being used for two different counters.

If you use the official 'alternate' ROM, it fixes this issue.

#873 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

I still need to combine ROMs to create a set that does both the 7-digit mod and the bug fix. As a side note I'm going to try to get it loaded onto one of the aftermarket MPU boards...

Which 7-digit mod? The OS conversion, or the hacked-on version?

#875 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

I didn't know there are two? I used this one and did the very simple wiring mod: http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html
If there is an OS version, it would be nice if it was put into the Alltek board with a switch to select...

Was asking because the current OS 7-digit has the memory bug in it. (I prefer that version though, as the 7-digit hacked version adds a handful of repeating unnecessary calls, and therefor slows down overall processing - most noticeable in the speed of the bonus countdown..)

#877 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Whoever is making these should make the 1s digit increment on a rollover and prevent the need for new 7 digit displays
What language is this stuff written in?

Assembly.
And there is a /10 version. (Personal preference, though, I have to have my scores olend in 0.)

1 month later
#891 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

Any news on the LED board or whatever this is? I'm tired of having to fix the rocket ladder sockets constantly. A light board would be awesome!

Drop me a PM.
I have not had a large run done. But if they are really needed, send me a PM and let me know. If I get a small quantity, I may be able to place a small order, to help you guys from needing to do more work.

The board for the METEOR drop targets isn't done yet, but available ARE:
(1) The Rocket Light Board, and
(2) The Spinner lights.

So, let me know what you want, and I will get prices for a small run.

#894 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Put me down for a rocket light board please.......
What's the "spinner lights??"
-Nate

Send me a PM.

Yes, it's the same setup as the three rocket lights, so it has the same issues.

#895 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Send me a PM.
Yes, it's the same setup as the three rocket lights, so it has the same issues.

Edit to add:
This is NOT a production run. This is a very small run for those that just HAVE to have the boards because of non-working strips. (Rocket Bonus & Spinner Score). Because of this, the PCBs will be *RED* instead of black, and the price will be HIGHER. I can't estimate a price until I know how many are needed, but I am expecting $125 for the Rocket Bonus.

Because of the price, I am only expecting those that are having issues with the lamp strips to want to order them. The price will vary depending on how many are ordered, so the final price will be adjusted accordingly. I am not making any money off of these, as I get a rush out of people having something in their game with my name on it.

I won't know on shipping time until I get proper price, which should be by the end of this week. I am GUESSING it will be a 4-week turnaround, so middle ot August.

As of right now, I have people interested in 6 Rocket Bonus and 4 Spinner Score. I ahve to get the files together and sent off to the manufacturer. Would like to place order Friday (to avoid an unnecessary two-day delay) so I'll close orders on Noon EST Friday.

#897 1 year ago

Okay, update for anyone still on the fence:
Expected cost of the boards will be:
Rocket Bonus: $100
Spinner Score: $50.

Depending on how many people want them, they **LIKELY** will be cheaper. Expected delivery date, August 17th, but could be later.
Will place order next week.

If Interested, drop me a PM.

#899 1 year ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

This is for the proto versions?

Yes. Production versions likely won't be ready 'til the end of the year or so. And then, the other ones will be ready as well. These work - they just will be red PCB instead of black. Everything else will be the same.

2 weeks later
#907 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Mayfair Amusements stocks 1000s of used backglasses. Bgresto is the only one making repro Meteor backglasses. Pinsider Racingpin has a Meteor backglass last time we talked. Also try Pinsiders too-many-pins and ibuypinballs as they have a lot of used backglasses.
If the above leads don’t work try posting in these Facebook groups:
Pinball Machines and Parts Wanted
Pinball And Arcades <Parts only>

For the record, I believe that BGResto's does NOT include any mirroring, however. (Something to keep in mind, at least.)

2 months later
#978 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Are the 22-26AWG crimp contacts the size that I want to use?? Of course, when I sit down to make an order, Great Plains is out of stock!!!

Go to Mouser.com or Digikey.com

3 months later
#1093 1 year ago

Hey..

Can ya'll verify for me..

Did Meteor ship with #455 bulbs behind the backglass at all?

#1097 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I don't see any, only 44/47 bulbs

Interesting, thanks!!

#1101 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

it's the same socket size right?
Just a different type of bulb, do they go in the lighting baffles?

Yeah, the head of the bulb is different (more rounded) but they fit in the same socket.

Quoted from vec-tor:

#455 lamp...
Gottlieb would use a different lamp socket to delineate the #455 lamp on there back box.
Bally used cupped back box spots on Captian Fantastic pinball; Wizard did not.
Data East used #455 in there back box... but did not have a marker; usually the bottom row G.I.
Data East and Williams would use the #545 wedge lamp... Williams used black wedge socket to
_delineate.
Stern/Williams/Gameplan/Bally 1980's back box as a rule... used #455 as accents to
the back box, what ever the Operators likings were. #455 was/is more expensive
than the #44 or #47 lamps... some Operators would use #55 ouch!
This lamps would be on sale and where cheap.
#130 lamp, nobody knows about... small with a round head... good for having an air gap
from the back board to the backglass.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Somebody must have changed them to get the flickering effect.

I was asking because my Meteor has (since I've had it) #455's in all the sockets behind the game's logo. From the look of these bulbs (some burnt out, some have corroded bases, etc) they have been in there a while. However, I don't remember if the other Meteors I've played back in the days had the blinkers or not.

1 week later
#1110 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I am. are they out of the "boutique zone" ?

Supposedly. But the email address, when you pre-purchase, says (or did when I did) thanks for the interest in the boutique listing.

1 month later
#1145 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I joined the club today! Yay!!
I am having a problem, however. The lights come on and it is making a two toned sound over and over and not ejecting the ball. It keeps flashing "shoot again" on the backglass. Any ideas?

Sounds like the outhole kicker isn't firing. And since you made no mention of drop targets resettting over and over, I'm guessing you have a blown fuse, or no coil power.

#1153 1 year ago
Quoted from setzkor:

As he mentions, if it is saying "shoot again" it is like it thinks the ball drained. What happens if you put the ball at the plunger manually? Do targets register?

If you shoot the ball, and do not his a switch and the ball ends up in the outhole, the game will do exactly that - flash the 'shoot again' light, reset all the drop-targets, and try to serve you the ball again. This is why I asked.

Quoted from Daditude:

The flippers do not flip, the drop targets dont raise up, and the score just goes up and up.

Okay, you have no coil power. At all. Did you check the fuse under the playfield?
You need to look at the schamatic, and find out where your coil power is not making it to the playfield.

1 week later
#1178 1 year ago
Quoted from ita47:

Has anyone used the Stern MPU-200 NVRAM Adaptor from https://nvram.weebly.com/ (bottom of the page) successfully in their Meteor? It replaces the U8 and U13 chips. I was thinking of putting one in mine so I don't have to mess with a remote battery holder.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I ran it in mine without any issue. Sound or otherwise.
I eventually replaced my MPU200 because of stuck/broken DIPs, but I still have the board.

2 months later
#1224 1 year ago
Quoted from Y3AG3R:

the high voltage fuse blew on the way home apparently

On the way home?! Did your vehicle get struck by lightning? Are you okay?

Welcome to the club!

2 months later
#1284 9 months ago

You may have a bad PIA.

Get Leon's Test ROM and see if everything works as expected. Or, if you can't get a copy of the ROMs, try changing out both PIAs.

#1287 9 months ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

This is a new (purchased last year before he offered user configuration) weebly mpu. Game was pretty much sitting til I got a chance to dig into it this summer. I assume PIAs could be bad even if new. I can move my Alltek board over and set it for Meteor and check status. How would a test rom work on the weebly, by chance?

Oh, I missed that fact!
How the ROM would work, no idea off hand unfrotuanely. And while PIAs COULD go bad, it's less likely of a thing.

Try disconnecting your sound board, and see if issues clear up or not.

3 weeks later
#1295 9 months ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Coyote
I wanted to clarify this test with you. I disconnected the ribbon cable (its new), not the power connectors on the bottom. Were you meaning power? I can retest if so. The random sling issue has gotten fairly rare. Happens every 5 or games. The HSTD light issue happens all the time. Hit a METEOR drop, it flickers, sling fires, it flickers, hit the dead bumpers, it flickers. Pop bumper, surprisingly does not make it flicker. GAAHHHHH!

That's what I meant, yuppers. Disconnecting the power plugs would kind of do the same thing, but leave the (dead) board connected to the circuit and could cause other issues. With the ribbon cable disconnected, you're removing it from the address/data lines altogether, so it's a better test.

Another thing I would check is your +5v. Maybe it has a LOT of AC ripple which is causing issues? Or a bad cap on the MPU? (I don't remember if you mentioned replacing the MPU and still getting the issue or not, sorry!)

2 months later
#1370 6 months ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

CPR had Meteor playfields up as "printing now", but I noticed today they are no longer on the site. I was definitely late to the game, but curious if anyone got a purchase e-mail from them? Probably gone already....

I signed up for them, twice, and haven't heard a thing.

3 weeks later
#1401 5 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The wait was worth it and finally over!! In photos, my restored PF on the left, CPR on the right. Very pleased with the PF. Smooth clear with no flecks or boogers. Wood thickness and dimensions are consistent to original. Major cutouts for flippers, slings, drops and pops are very consistent to the original. I verified by placing the CPR over the original and I can see all cutouts aligned very well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Interesting. I too am surprised they left out the rubber sizes.

Also, did they use the wrong color for the secondary, outer insert keylines? (Easiest to notice comparing the two playfields and the lights in front of the "METEOR" drops..) Or, did your playfield just fade that much? I can't tell on my OEM field since I'm not at home at the moment. ..

#1405 5 months ago