Joined the club yesterday! She's got a few issues and needs a good cleaning but I think I did pretty well.
The "1" targets reset on a new ball but not when all 3 are down during play. Any ideas where to start?
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Joined the club yesterday! She's got a few issues and needs a good cleaning but I think I did pretty well.
The "1" targets reset on a new ball but not when all 3 are down during play. Any ideas where to start?
Looking for spring 5A-171 - drop target return springs. They are out of stock at Marco with no "sample" spring to run a comparison, and action pinball they are stupid expensive. Does anyone know of a substitute part number? They are 1" at rest and there are a bunch of parts that look like they might fit the bill (#265-5003-02) but could be thicker, thinner, etc. My google-fu has failed me.
I'd do it if I had something to scan with.
On my meteor the first two displays take about 5 minutes to warm up after turning on the machine. No display at all, then bam. Same thing on the other displays when using the 1p and 2p harness so it should be something on the board I guess? Anybody seen this before? I couldn't find a similar symptom on google.
Also, what playfield angle are you guys running?
Doesn't seem like anything is loose after reseating everything and watching the displays. The first two displays work with the 3p connector so it has to be whatever is feeding the displays, but what part would need to "warm up" for the 1 and 2 player outputs only? They don't start together but usually within a minute or two of each other.
So I forgot to update. The displays warming up problem was due to low voltage from the driver board. Adjusted the pot on that board up to 90 and I'm back in business. Now if I could just figure out the spinner sound issue...
I have done that a few times no luck. My suspicion at this point is something on the sound board. Alltek said they'd be happy to check my board out for me to rule it out I just have to get it to them some time. I'm going someone local will have an alltek or a sound board I can swap in to test real quick at some point.
Mine has the area for the rubber, and also had the set screws drilled for the tops. I got new tops and they snapped on tightly to the existing bodies.
I didn't discover the 2 sizes of posts until I went to put mine back on. Luckily I took enough in process photos to figure it all out.
I was wondering about this bug the other day. Is it totally random or does it happen after 255 consecutive games?
Whoever is making these should make the 1s digit increment on a rollover and prevent the need for new 7 digit displays
What language is this stuff written in?
Quoted from hailrazer:Just picked up a Meteor. Non-Working but in excellent condition for $500.
Wow, nice find!!
(I'll give you $550!)
I'm hoping with cpr's new method it's just a matter of time but I don't know of anyone making one right now
That's funny, I was thinking about how you could do that just the other day! There are already switches, you'd just need to hack up a way to get the coil power there. I'm sure there's a way to use some unused transistors from the SDU.
I'm at work or I'd look for you. You might flip the board over to find they're going to the same place. In any case, if it worked at the other location the pins didnt move themselves to another spot, right? Did you undo backbox connectors and potentially mis-align or flip the ribbon cables? The other suggestion to look for cold solder joints is a good one as well. You may be able to narrow this down with the wiggle test. Wiggle the connectors at the sound board, mpu, and rectifier board and see if you get any static or intermittent sound
Exploit? Shit... If you're good enough to max your rockets, hit the spinner then drain in the outlane you deserve the win.
What is the exact order of events to get the 255x bonus countdown? I want to test the alternate ROM. I thought it was something like max bonus x, max rockets, spinner counting while draining over a collect rockets outland but I couldn't recreate it with the old ROM. I know it's happened on the old board during regular play.
You may have a switch diode issuecombined with a switch that is stuck closed. I'd go into the switch test and see 1) if any switches are stuck and 2) if any switch goes activate multiple or incorrect switches. Instructions are in the manual and lots of articles on troubleshooting switch matrices.
I thought the compatibility issues were only that the ram chips had to be matched. Confirm / deny, anyone?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Maybe the gap on the switches is just a little too much.
This would be my suspicion.
You probably have low scoring thresholds for specials, and specials set to extra ball. Getting all the rockets lined up and hitting wow is a lot harder than you would think. Reference the manual on ipdb for settings.
Quoted from Coyote:I'd odd in the fact that I LIKE the 'soft' glow of plasma displays.
If you haven't seen them yet you should check out pinitech's new displays, they really got it dialed in
Try the grounding the transistor trick to see if the wires are connected as they should be. Cold solder and connector problems are prevalent in these as well.
You can very quickly ground the tab of the associated transistor and it'll fire the coil if all is good with the wiring.
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