Bethany Beach, DE
Friend needs to do some repairs on his meteor. I know its an older stern but is there a repair guide avail for this system? link or pdf?
Thanks
(Topic ID: 134253)
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Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979
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8 years later
Going to fix up a dead meteor for a friend. When game power on I get GI. only. The board in cab with fuses has burned connectors. Start there? Should I replace that board. Or focus on connectors.
Thx
Mike
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Sounds like the bridge board in the cabinet. Definitely start there and verify you have all the proper voltages. Then troubleshoot from there. You’ll find some great information in the early Bally/Stern section of pinwiki.com
Thank you very much. Forgot about that site.
Alltek has some boards. I may just buy a new one and the MPU and make game more bulletproof
Quoted from play_pinball:Http://nvram.Weebly.com is your better option for classic stern boards. Alltek boards are great but are locked, do not come with expanded (or expandable) roms, and do not allow for free play. And Weebly’s are cheaper to boot.
Thx! ANyway you can let me know correct MPU and rectifier board? Thinking I need to rebuild some connectors. The bottom one on rectifier looks like a pain 
Quoted from play_pinball:https://nvram.weebly.com/mpu.html
https://nvram.weebly.com/bally---stern-rectifier.html
For your connectors reach out to rockwell via https://wirebot.xyz/pages/contact
Thx! So I just set dip switches and reconnect?
No way I can do that rec board from scratch Need to buy one ready to go
Quoted from Coyote:When you buy, tell him what game you're buying it for, he'll get it all ready, so just plug and play.
Thank you Last Rec board question The connector pin looks like about 20 position. Who sells them? Looks like a pain But I have the tool to press the wires into new connector
Quoted from play_pinball:I have never used the solderless board myself but cannot recall reading anyone having problems with them.
I forgot Pinball Life has their own that comes with the connectors: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-100-0070-00
Wow that is perfect! Just curious on bottom row why the game has the press in connectors? Maybe just easier to do back then. This kit is much better. Solves everything.
Thanks for all the help. Putting in my parts order this week. Sorry for all the questions. # of my 6 meteor targets are wrong. Too skinny. Who sells the thicker ones. Can anyone print the words METEOR. Mine is missing 3 letters
2 weeks later
Quoted from Coyote:20-pin: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/2-640251-0/292133
10-pin: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/1-640251-0/259243
8-pin: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/640251-8/259241
High-Current Pins: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/770476-1/524468
Keying Plugs: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/641623-1/259174
I just literally had to redo my Big Game rectifier board a couple weeks ago, and these worked well. Normally I don't worry about the keying pins, but in this case - if I accidentally plug it in one key off, could fry a board.
Going to rebuild some connectors on the MPU They look like 100 size can some post link where to get them Look s like I need 14 position, 15 and some longer ones.
Quoted from Coyote:This is a link to TE's .100 connectors that will work.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/rectangular-connector-housings/319?s=N4IgjCBcoEwBxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIAzAJwxUBsADCALqEAOALlCAMocBOASwB2AcxABfQhQjQQKSBhwFiZShQAsVMFRbsukXgJHipIOrrkKleQiUjlNNGnpCdufIWMmE4l5GhYtqoOIFQA7DB0ru6GniY%2BIDBgkYjygcp2ahCsbgYgAJLCHLiiuPyJALSyAYpBKvbkKSxmlRpp1vVZoRoArHTRhMl94S0SEkA
However, any .100" (2.54) inline free-hanging connector will work. .100" is .100". Make sure you get the right pins for whatever housings you get.
Thx.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1-770602-6/291441
These? Which pins work with these.
Quoted from Coyote:Maybe? I'm not a metallurgist - I was just basing my thoghts on what power/signals pass through the connector.
Yup! Like a box - the .100" ones grip on either side, while the .156" ones grip front-back (like the tri-furicon ones do). I really only use the ones that connect on more than one side on higher-amperage connections - like the rectifier board, GI and other coil power in WPC boards, etc. For displays, switches and lamp, IMHO they never use enough current to warrant use of a pin like this. Heh.
Hate to be a PIA How do I access the diff lengths. Need to get a bunch of sizes. The link has a 4 pin and finger how to change sizes.
Quoted from Mathazar:Highly recommend wirebot.com for pins, connectors, colored wires, etc.
https://wirebot.xyz/collections/connectors-crimps
Ok here is a good example. I need 15 , 16 position. Some look like 25 position. This site only lists. Like 4 positions. Am I looking in wrong spot. ?
Quoted from mandelbe:I really like my Homepin displays. Very good quality and lifetime guarantee.
Looks like Pinball Life has them. Order 5 of these?
https://www.pinballlife.com/ballystern-6-digit-led-display.html
Quoted from Coyote:Do not base it off of the picture - it is a stock picture. Look at the description. The one I linked is "CONN RCPT HSG 16POS 2.54MM" - 16pos = 16 pins, 2.54mm = .100".
You can look for other sizes by going down to "Product Attributes", and selecting the checkbox next to Series, Connector Type, Mfr, Pitch, and Mounting Type. Then click "View Similar"- that will run a search for all TE Receptacle of series CST-100 II Free-Hanging. Then, once you do that, you'll have a dropdown at the top that will let you select the # of positions.
Quoted from Coyote:That one's obselete (for whatever reason) - I would -
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1-1375820-6/1864926
And if you look at the bottom of the page you'll see pins listed under 'Associated Products'. Click on See All 9 to see the different wire sizes and finishes available. Tin is fine - we don't need gold. I prefer TE's pins here over Molex because most of TE's socket-pins grip on at least two sides of the header pin.
I did my rectifier board (in Big Game) with TE pins, .156", and holy hell, those are impossible to take off now - the two sides cause them to grip tightly, heh.
I’ve got the conn in my cart. Looking at associated products which are the correct pins. There are several types and look different. Tin in fine. Thx
Quoted from Coyote:Go for tin, and a wire-size that matches the wire you're crimping. For the rectifier board, I believe you want the 16-20awg (or about those sizes; the 22-26awg would be far too small. )
Sorry I've missed your texts over the weekend; family was taking up all my time except when I could escape here.
Thx. these are for the wires upper left MPU. Most seem small gauge for the 100 conn.
1 week later
Quoted from mandelbe:Yup! You will love them.
So Ive got 5 new displays en route. Im guessing there will be instructions. I know they are plug and play....But since these are led. What change is made to give them the correct lower voltage.
Quoted from Coyote:Nothing - 5v is already present on the connector to each display.
Simply remove the high-voltage fuse on the SDB or the Rectifier board, to prevent any future issues, and you're good!
Thx. Which fuse so I’ll make sure your don't have any issues.
1 month later
I need to run the switch test on my replacement MPU. Having trouble getting game to start sometimes so trying to diagnose start button switch.
When I press test I get coils. Second press I get lights. 3rd press I get display test.....Now it gets confusing. 4th press I see random numbers on display. 5th press on same.
Is there a test where I can press each switch and see its being received by MPU?
Thx
Quoted from slochar:(the following all assumes you are running stock software, not a mod)
The first press of the test button starts the 'burn in' test, which should do all tests except switch test at the same time - all lamps flash, display test, and solenoids/sounds count up one at a time.
The second press is lamps only. Lamps flash on and off.
Third press is displays.
Fourth press is solenoids/sounds
Fifth press is switch test. If all switches are open, flashes a 0 in the ball in play window.
6th press and up shows you the current contents of nvram. See you manual for what each one is; when you first set up a board, you need to manually clear these (clear button on coin door)
So your 5th press is the switches. Stock software only shows the lowest numbered switch that's seen as closed; modified software (on weebly board, for instance) some of them show you all the closed switches, one at a time in the displays, from lowest to highest.
Thx. Its a weebly. No mods. Set on free play. So How can I test start button?
Quoted from slochar:Get to the switch test with all the drops up and the ball out. Flashing zero on ball in play display. Press and hold the start button. You should see 06 on the displays when it's pressed, and goes back to the flashing 0 when not pressed.
What is the actual issue with the game? Do the solenoids fire? What happens now when you press the start button to start a game, presumably you have the correct freeplay set? (I think weebly uses a specific rom set for freeplay vs. non on stern games, but some of them are custom in other ways, i.e. you have to set a dip switch as well to the correct game specific setting.)
Do the displays clear and put a flashing zero on player 1? If you have no solenoids other than flippers there is a fuse under the PF for solenoids, it might be blown. If you get nothing yeah do the switch test.
If it does not see the switch test the wiring with a meter.... the connectors might need to be replaced. You can check the coin switches as well in switch test (you kind of reach under them and flick them/hold them closed) to make sure your coin door is reading any switches there. The slam tilt switch on the door could be held to test too, in switch test mode it will not reboot the machine but show its number instead.
Game plays great when the start button works ...I rebuilt all 3 connectors from rec board in cab. Redid connector for lower right MPU which I beleive is the conn for switches...J3? 3rd wire up is blue which is start button.
What happens is I turn game on. It goes through test I think 5 beeps and game is in attract mode. Free play. I press start button nothing happens. I wiggle various switches wires and eventually it will work then works forever. SO its either the switch/wire or some other wire thats not making it to MPU.
Quoted from slochar:J3 is the cab switches yeah.... remember the strobes and returns are shared between cab and playfield. When it doesn't work try taking the playfield connector off and see if it starts the game.
Which switch is the pf connector that I should try?
Quoted from slochar:There are 2 .100 connectors on the right side of the mpu board j2/j3. PF is J2.
Have you inspected the start button contacts closely to see if the gold plating is gone? First thing to do with non-working switches is stick a meter (preferably with alligator clip leads on it to eliminate you pushing the contacts oddly when holding leads directly on it) on the 2 tabs that go to the switch blades, with meter in continuity press the start button and make sure you get consistent beep when closed. Switch might just be dirty and need cleaning or the gold plating might be gone. That's the first thing to do with intermittent switches on this era machine.... after that you do the connector tracing. There's a often overlooked connector for the coin door itself that people almost never do anything with, that has .062 or .093 connectors in it. These are usually more robust than the .100 connectors, but could still be tarnished and not working correctly (the machine is 44+ years old, after all....)
Problem solved.....Ill post how I solved in case someone comes across a similar situation. Should have been obvious but sometimes you have to step back and look at it after tying everything....I was so focused on the blue/white wire And tracing it from the button through connector inside cab and then up to the MPU. I noticed that the tiny tin connector was squeezed a little too tight so it would not making good contact with the pins on the MPU. I know that it was an issue but it did not solve it so back to the drawing board.
Finally looked at schematic closer and forgot that the switch matrix has a red/yellow wire that completes the circuit. I noticed when I finally got test mode to work....Again it was told to me but I had to learn. All drop targets must be up and no ball in trough. Noticed I had no switches from coin door....Visual inspection of R/Y wire and on the last coin switch it was making contact with switch lugs but as soon as I wiggled it fell off.... Reconnected and i have coin door switches including the start button and game starts!
Thx for all the help...
3 weeks later
Seems like a simple question. Spinner a little sluggish. Not binding on the wire from the switch below. Ends are not touching anything Best way to bring back to original spin? Thinking of taking it out and making sure it’s square and not twisted.
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:Remove the spinner. Make sure the ends aren't bent at a weird angle. Clean the ends with your favorite cleaner then with metal polish. Put the spinner back in. Apply a drop of lube on each end. You spinner is now "juiced". Enjoy.
Thx!
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