Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Why would it be different than the other 5 switch stacks? Can you look at those for correct order?

Quoted from slochar:

Were you thinking of where people were using the bottom mounted switches instead of the back mounted? (Possibly because the bent type arm is hard to source)

Quoted from Coyote:

Yeah, honestly, I have never seen a Meteor without that extra post. Be interesting to see if there ware any out there. (And I mean assembled that way, not removed. )

Quoted from Charles_Kline:

This is a good side by side that shows how terrible that gold blob around the purple looks.
That playfield looks decent, why go through the hassle of CPRs half assed repro?

Quoted from Pinbub:

So to revisit CPR's latest playfield run.... I read a lot about the problems with the original playfield CPR did, the most obvious being the missing scores for the "Meteor" drop targets. I see they fixed that with the newest run of playfield. How much of the rest of the font, art etc issues were addressed?
I'm asking because I was "lucky" enough to buy the last of the first run playfields, back in December. I'm considering buying another one if enough of the issues were addressed. I have a second Meteor that could use a playfield but for the money, if the missing scores were the only thing fixed I'll probably just live with it.

Quoted from DaveSpade73:

I have a problem and could use some help. The other day I came I to the room and the machine was making a never ending audible tone and all the numbers on the pin scores were blank. I turned it of and back on and it booted up fine. When I hit the start button the game started but the targets didn't reset and the ball didn't shoot out but the flippers work. The machine will register a score if you hit the ball on a bumper. Anybody have any idea??

Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Finally got the playfield swap going after having to send the playfield out to Neo to add the missing text water slides and letting it sit for a few months. Top side pretty much done.
Suck CPR didn't even make the holes for the t-nuts, we didn't notice till after the clear coating but all good after drilling all the holes.
I think the custom purple Rails from Reese Rails look great, once the plastics are on I think they will look better also.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from zacaj:

There are two types of bushings for classic sterns. One for mechs that are flush with the playfield, one for mechs that are raised off the playfield. The only one that pinball life sells is the second, longer type which works with its type 2 assemblies. https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-nylon-flipper-bushing.html.

Quoted from play_pinball:

I just found out about these after another guy and I both posted about flipper dragging on other classic Sterns: https://www.pinballlife.com/nylon-flipper-shaft-spacer.html
Iirc, you can also get #14 brass washers from Home Depot or wherever.

Quoted from rcbrown316:

the grooves are a problem if you do things that affect the flippers relation to the PF surface (overlays, hard tops, new pf, clearcoat etc) I just get rid of them and use these. the purist wont like it but it solves problems.
A3994-5 $5.10ea -See: http://www.pbresource.com/flippers.htm

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Okay so I'm finally back here to fix this meteor for my friend and I want to verify that my connections are right. Looks like I have blue and orange flipped but I'm a bit confused where the incoming black wire should go. Can someone confirm this for me before I start soldering? Does the incoming black wire go to the tab on the switch that would intermittently touch with the orange wires from the coil?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Yup, all good to go now! I thought I had him all sorted out but the goofy wiring in here had me questioning myself. Thanks for the pics!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Mathazar:

Joined the club this week with a decent project Meteor - good bones, but needs a lot of help. Got it flipping a game within an hour of unloading it from the truck and now I'm starting to tear it down to go through everything.
I started a resto thread here if anyone wants to follow: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1979-stern-meteor-project[quoted image]

Quoted from nocreditdot:

Finally finished my meteor restore/playfield swap. It went from a wretch to a pretty nice example. Also did the 7 digit conversion.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Xdetroit:

Thank you. I found it there.
Next question. Have any of you guys tried to touch up the spots around the inserts?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Mathazar:

Question for the group - I'm doing a playfield swap onto an early run Gold CPR. In the posts behind the METEOR drop target bank, there is a dimple missing for the 8th post. For anyone who's done an early CPR....did you go ahead and add that missing post or just leave it out? Will balls get stuck behind there without it?[quoted image]

Quoted from Mathazar:

These early CPR Golds are just full of fun little issues. Got the missing score waterslides in for below the METEOR DT bank and I'm not going to worry about the wrong font being used for the "Advance & Score Rocket Value" text in front of the three 3-bank drop targets. Will also likely change to refurbed Chicklet targets instead of the repro's I bought (with the larger tops) to avoid the smaller hole issue for the 333 drop target bank. Now on to the next (last?) "manufacturing blemish"...
So there's an extra hole for second GI lamp socket above each out lane. For anyone who's done a Meteor CPR - did you just go ahead and populate/wire up the extra light or just use one of the two? If you just used one of them, which one did you use?[quoted image]

Quoted from Coyote:

I'm retro-brighting mine. I got the set of hot-stamped targets, with the hoods on them, and while the font is correct, I do not like how they work.

Quoted from Mathazar:

I've tried retro-brightening some white (now yellowed) chime boxes for my Mata Hari and it didn't do much. Tried it multiple times using the manufacturers directions, trying natural sunlight first and then a dedicated UV light, not much improvement at all (and it was messy). If you're successful with whitening your targets, I'd be very keen to know what brand stuff you used and the process that worked. I'd be willing to try it again.....meanwhile, I try not to look at my yellowed chime boxes.

Quoted from play_pinball:

May have to do with your solution. I ultrasonic cleaned some junk/broken Centaur drop targets as a test, using Comet Pinball's ultrasonic powder solution. The art was totally removed.

Quoted from Mathazar:

This is what I attempted to use (photo), per recommendation from another pinsider, on my Mata Hari chime boxes. Since the chime boxes are so large, they actually didn't "soak" in this solution while in the sunlight. The recommendation I got was to generously paste this stuff on the chime boxes, seal them in large plastic baggies, and let them sit in direct sunlight for a couple of days. Didn't do much.
I'm wondering if that process faltered because the chime boxes weren't submerged in the solution during the sun phase. Since the drop targets are small/flat in comparison and can be totally submerged in a shallow bin, maybe I'll give this a try on my Meteor chicklets.[quoted image]

Quoted from A_Bord:

My project/players Meteor came with a Beehive playfield protector to help the game survive some play before a proper restoration could move forward. One of the few issues the protector introduces is a small lip near the drop target banks that frequently traps a slow moving ball above a dropped target. These can not be shaken loose.
[quoted image]
So today I printed some clip-in standoffs to help keep the drop targets at the same level or just slightly above the top of the playfield protector.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I had thought about some makeshift solutions like popsicle sticks or some beerseal, but these clip nicely into place at all four target banks, are easily installed, stay in place when working on the game, and are easily removed.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Problem solved. Hope this helps anyone else that uses a playfield protector.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Xdetroit:

My meteor project is coming along. She’s not perfect but she’s looking nice and shiny. Still need to repaint the spinner and replace the drop targets. I also included a before and after coin door pic.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Must've missed all the chatter about the new Meteor ruleset. Does that complete Arduino sold by Roygbev install ok on a barakandl PCB?
Thanks.
Nate

Quoted from Xdetroit:

I just replaced all my drops and the M target doesn't seem to want to stay up. I’ve heard that this is an issue for this game. Has anyone run into this issue?
[quoted image]

Quoted from barakandl:

The driver board transistor for that coil probably went bad. Do you have a DMM? If so, power off. unplug the three larger connectors from the driver board. set the DMM to diode test. red lead on ground. black lead touch the tab the transistor that does the locked on coil. Good test is about 0.400 to 0.600. If it reads 0.00 or below about 0.400 the transistor is probably bad. The manual or card in the backbox should tell you the transistor number, or you can just test each one. Use TIP102
If the transistor is bad, also check the coil diode, or just replace it. Sometimes the coil diode just physically breaks of from 40 years of vibration and that will blow out the transistor. To test the diode on the coil you need to lift one leg of the diode off the coil. The low resistance of the coil messes up the diode test when in circuit.

Quoted from A_Bord:

I keep a pile of transistors for the driver board. Doesn't happen often, but when I get a lockup I don't even bother testing the transistor, just pull it and replace, plus a diode replace as stated above.

Quoted from barakandl:

Clip both leads near the transistor case. Get some solder on your iron tip. Needle nose grip on the middle nub. Wet iron tip on the large tab. Once the tab solder melts you can pick it up by the nub. Then clean up the leftover leads stuck to the board. Original looks like 13n10l so use that or better 15n10l, 17n10l, 22n10l, irl540, 40n10l.
Might be under warranty?

Quoted from barakandl:

In Bally/stern Games add a 1.25a sb fuse to the knocker and chime box.

Quoted from Mathazar:

Just got an email notification from CPR that Meteor playfields are back in stock for a limited short run:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/meteor-playfield/

Quoted from lowbeau67:

Bought a new replacement right flipper plate for my meteor.
Starting my first ever playfield
swap. Has anyone else used this plate from pinball life?.
If you have can u post a pic.
Sounds dumb but I can't see how to reassemble the right way.
[quoted image]

Quoted from ss-pinball:

In search of a couple of reasonably priced Meteor keyfobs...somebody's gotta have an extra couple of them around...each new set of plastics comes with four.
If I can't find two reasonably priced keyfobs...I'm looking for a Meteor project with a blown out playfield....so I have an excuse/need to order a set of plastics...
Bueller? Bueller? Anyone?
A couple of generic "Stern" keychains would work too.

Quoted from ss-pinball:

I think "reasonable" is just that.
It isn't my intent to argue about the piracy that is practiced regularly in the hobby based on "capitalizzim" or "it'z biznizz"...yet, you gotta pay what the man asks--or not.
It's also true that ebay has some steep embedded fees that cause folks to pad their prices in order to protect their $10 profit.
$25--perhaps plus shipping-- is a bad joke when you consider that every set of new plastics comes with FOUR keyfobs...so to do the math here--if a guy buys a new set of plastics and sells the fobs at that price, then his cost for the set is $40-50...which seems skewed to me. The plastics are the important part--they should be worth more than the keyfobs, right?

Quoted from ss-pinball:

I would think that $10-15 shipped might be reasonable

Quoted from lowbeau67:

This is driving me crazy. I'm rebuilding my pop bumper
and the pics I took months ago suck . Where do these pieces go?
Haha thx.
[quoted image]

Quoted from lowbeau67:

Got my spinner adjusted the other day. Took a little while but really cooks now.
I've added decals to both sides since this video.

Quoted from Mathazar:

Got all the cabinet cards and labels in. Backbox door repaint is done and I'll start re-assembling that tonight with a newly cleaned wire harness. Hoping this week is the week I put the new playfield in, turn the power on (in stages...no need to blow up all the PCBs all at once!), and see what kind of troubleshooting I'm in for after everything is back together.[quoted image]

Quoted from Y3AG3R:

Anyone know where i can find the correct legs for my Meteor? i'm not looking for authentic just the right height. Mine sits really high compared to the rest of my pins.
[quoted image]

Quoted from lowbeau67:

So I fire up game to do some more tweaking. All my control lamps are flickering which they haven't done since I applied power a week ago.
I've had an alltek light board in since power up.
Anything anybody could point to for me to check.
Went out with wife for some margaritas for a bit.
Thx.

Quoted from Mathazar:

Uh, oh. Playfield is in the cabinet now and I'm working through a punch list of items on my way to a flipping pin. Worked through the electrical, lamp, and switch issues so far and actually played my first test game tonight. Then noticed this.....WTF? Right flipper and the middle drain post are too close together and the ball won't drop through with the flipper in the down position. It's not like I can move that post or move the right flipper. What the heck do I do?
This is an early run of the CPR playfield with the missing DT scores (which I've added back in). I can take the rubber of the middle post and then there's enough clearance for the ball to drop through. Do I just try to find thinner rubber (for the post or flipper bat or both)? I suppose I could fill in the hole and drill a new one next to it to move it left, but I really, really don't want to do that.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Mathazar:

I was so excited to get this playfield. I didn't plan to put in a new CPR for this project....was just going to get it running as a nice player, maybe re-stencil the cabinet, and then wait for Outside Edge to someday produce a hardtop. But I got the CPR for a steal - brand new, never used from a guy local to me so no shipping costs or sales tax. The price was so low (slightly more than I paid for new CPR plastics and cheaper than what I paid for a new CPR backglass). The guy I bought it from took a bath - he paid full price from CPR a couple years ago but never used it. I didn't care that the METEOR DT scores were missing - I had the waterslides in the correct font and put them on myself. The wrong fonts for the other DT banks text didn't bother me, either. The smaller cut out for the 333's DT bank didn't affect me because it worked ok with tombstone drop targets (which I had).
During topside assembly for the playfield swap, I noticed even before the flippers went on that the middle drain post seemed closer to the right than the left. It become more apparent after putting on the flipper bats and the rubbers, but I noticed on other Meteor machines that some playfields had that "slightly to the right" look so I pressed on. It wasn't until I actually put a ball in play that I saw that the ball doesn't even fit between the two. You've got to be kidding me.
I'm going to think about it some more, but I've got a feeling the only right move is going to be to fill in that hole with wood epoxy and carefully drill a new hole slightly to the left. It should be close enough that the base of the post, while in the new hole, will cover the old hole. If not, perhaps a very thin washer between the playfield surface and the post base will extend enough to cover the previous hole.
Arrrghh......I was so close to finishing this thing.

Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Yikes, that center post thing is horrid. Such a disappointing reproduction.
If it were me, I'd probably move the flipper hole as it'll be hidden by the flipper.

Quoted from Mathazar:

I think it would be a pretty niche market to get north of $5K for a primo Meteor and ya, you'd likely have to endure a bunch of "you're crazy" comments. But I'm the same boat - I've got about $4200 in my restore with what I'm calling a "Meteor LE" with powder coated legs and armor, CPR playfield, backglass, and plastics, LEDs, new boardset, and on and on. And Arduino is on the way! Got notice it shipped yesterday, so over the Christmas holiday my Meteor LE should be complete. No intention of selling, but if/when I do I think I'd be pleased to get $3200 out of it.

Quoted from FantasticPinball:

So who did the artwork for the reproduction? Have them send me the files and I will improve them and make a new and improved reproduction.

Quoted from Mathazar:

I think it would be a pretty niche market to get north of $5K for a primo Meteor and ya, you'd likely have to endure a bunch of "you're crazy" comments. But I'm the same boat - I've got about $4200 in my restore with what I'm calling a "Meteor LE" with powder coated legs and armor, CPR playfield, backglass, and plastics, LEDs, new boardset, and on and on. And Arduino is on the way! Got notice it shipped yesterday, so over the Christmas holiday my Meteor LE should be complete. No intention of selling, but if/when I do I think I'd be pleased to get $3200 out of it.

Quoted from Mathazar:

I bought these on recommendation from another Arduino user.
bigguybbr - indeed, I'll be mounting this switch inside the lower cab near the coin door running the cable back up to the Arduino![quoted image]

Quoted from Mathazar:

I bought these on recommendation from another Arduino user.
bigguybbr - indeed, I'll be mounting this switch inside the lower cab near the coin door running the cable back up to the Arduino![quoted image]

Quoted from RGarriott:

I have briefly looked into the new code but was thinking that you pulled the sound card ribbon cables and put in the anduino in its spot. I guess im not sure what the whole process is for the switch .

Quoted from RGarriott:

Ok Im with ya know. If the switch isn't selected for the Arduino it doesn't boot up and the sb300 does. The new board fits in the same spot as the ribbon cables but still has pins to attach the ribbon cables.

Quoted from RGarriott:

What is the pin-out that you have on your switch. I see that its a 12 post

Quoted from DickHamill:

Before anyone goes too far down this path -- for my first board (REV 1, formerly sold by RoyGBev or others), there was a weird speaker noise because I didn't have a way of holding A4J5 pin 16 low, so the SB300 would chatter. On later revisions (I recommend all new machines be built out with REV 3 boards, if possible), I address the SB300 correctly and the chatter goes away.
Of course, depending on your op amps and caps on your SB300, you may get speaker hum.
Anyway, my point is, if you can live with the natural hum of your SB300, and you have a REV2 or greater board, you shouldn't need to use more than a single throw-single pole switch to control the Arduino. There's nothing wrong with the arrangement that bigguybbr has (it's the way I did my first SB300 machines), but if you have a REV3, you can get away with the switches that Mathazar mentioned.
The only downside of the REV3 is that you need an Arduino MEGA2560, which is a few dollars more ($12 versus the NANO at $4). But, on the plus side, it has 8x the space so if anyone wants to they can build out a much, much more complicated version of METEOR.

Quoted from lowbeau67:

It's ready for the public to enjoy.
[quoted image]

Quoted from bigguybbr:

All good points. On my set up, since I share the use the cabinet speaker as a subwoofer off my amplifier when running from the wav trigger, if I leave it connected when getting output from the SB-300, it back feeds into the amp, and makes some really horrendous noises coming from the speakers. The toggle how I use it, prevents this from happening.
If you are using a seperate set of speakers, such as a sound bar, this isn't a concern.

Quoted from BillPinball:So I am still battling the 6k light on rocket #3 being out. Looks like I have a grounding issue? All connectors on the lamp driver board are disconnected.
Any ideas are appreciated.

Quoted from BorgDog:

or yoppsicles

Quoted from La4s:

You will use the larger holes below the battery. You may need to add a small jumper wire to connect the holes to make proper connection if there is any corrosion.[quoted image]