Gryphun:

Wow! Great job on that Meteor!!!

You will definitely find a buyer - beautiful.

Hunting for a Meteor, prefer decent playfield with all parts - light project ok. Don't want to get into board work.

I really want "MiamiRedSkins'" Meteor!!! Now that I can buy a board for $150. Anyone coming to Allentown from near him that could drive the (pre-paid for) game over for me????

Having a hell of a time finding this machine closer to me

-Nate

WOW Panzer76 - I HATE you!!

Bally AS-2518-21 - can these score displays be used in place of the originals in Meteor?

Thanks!

Thanks zacaj!

WooHoo! I'm joining the club, with a project Meteor bought at A-town. Probably will not start seriously diving into it until winter hits, but looking forwards to it!!

Beware, I will be on here a lot bugging the hell outta you other members for instructions.................help...............etc.......

Lovef2k, no, I pre-arranged to pick-up a project pin posted here on the Allentown thread - playfield very decent shape, needs total overhaul, backglass not as good as some at the show.

Funny story, after never seeing Meteor at shows, and paying for mine first in back at the loading dock area, I then enter the show and I run into (wasn't it four?)!!! at Allentown running and for sale!!! - for only a couple hundred more I could of had a fully functioning game instead of project - Doh!!!

Oh well, - that was a funny "kick myself in the ass" moment!! Will still enjoy fixing this one up.

I'd stick with the silver unless you do the lockdown bar and rails in black to match.......

You actually don't have to powdercoat. If you rough up the metal slightly with steel wool, spray with your choice of "smooth" or my preferred "stippled" spray paint, then coat with a flat or gloss clear coat spray - bam! Done. I've done this on my GoldenEye and it looks great.

May do this on Meteor as well...........

"Meteor/5 ROM images .....effectively divide the scores by 10"

Can someone send me this/these ROM's?

PM me with price - thanks!!!

Couple questions: is something like this what you use to burn ROMS?

https://www.amazon.com/Microcontroller-Programmer-SP200SE-support-AT89C52/dp/B00LO9MMKW/ref=sr_1_1

Second, SilverballNut it sounds like you are saying that you can't put these into an Altek board. Does that include the MPU Barakandl created for early Sterns??

Thanks erichill and SilverballNut - for the info and also for the names of people to get these ROMs from.

-Nate

WhiskeyTango, thanks for the info - I will need to order these, glad Pinball Life has the assemblies ready to go!!

Not at all, adapting brightness to the type of insert sounds like a plus.

Doing inventory for my Meteor project, rectifier board looks scary - is it a good idea just to replace with a new one???

Any updates on the ladder LED board???

-Nate

Anyone replace the red posts with dark blue?

Thinking about using blue with black rubbers - white stands out too much.

-Nate

Thanks, I'm leaning that way. Not confident in my board soldering skills - but now I'll have a practice one!!

-Nate

Anyone use Purple bulbs beneath the inserts?

Also thinking about slow color change behind the large corner plastics at top of PF.........?

-Nate

Ok, should I replace flippers with WPC or just brand-new Stern-type? Is there really a difference in how the two feel/play?

-Nate

Thanks for the flipper opinions - I may just rebuild what's there for the time being and see how they are - coyote I'll know who do pester if I do switch them over!!

I'm going to start a reconditioning thread soon (independent of the club thread) so hope you'll check it out and be available for moral support!!!

This is my oldest game and it'll need some re-pinning and other things that I haven't attempted as of yet to get it back running.

-Nate

Will do - probably start posting this weekend.

-Nate

Dead bumper body question: I have what look like two gottlieb (GTB-25A part number) bumper assemblies used for the dead bumpers up top. they do have the concave area for the rubber to fit into.

The pop tops do not fit these bodies, someone used a type of set screw drilled into the side to keep the top covers on..........

Pinball Life advertises a dead bumper body replacement but it looks like they do NOT have the concave area for the rubber??

I've got a lot of weird hacks while refurbishing my Meteor so questions will be forthcoming. Thanks in advance for guidance.......

popcap (resized).jpg

Ah, there are two heights to the Meteor posts???

Crap.

Where can you find the lower height if they are not uniform - could you use the same height and "protect" the tops from scraping the plastics with a coat of liquid rubber or something?

I don't like the red and want to replace with purple all over.............but maybe I can't do that???

-Nate

dothedoo where did you purchase the short posts?? Mine are really dried out and cracking, some already deteriorated........

TheLaw: Purple gross?? I think it'll bring out the purple in the pf - can't see why they ever put red in there?........the purple is dark enough so I think it'll look nice............

I am starting my Meteor resto thread tonight - more of a "refurbish" compared to what others have done to theirs - I'm not that concerned with making it look brand-new, just working with no problems and the playfield being decent/great with good play.

Here's the link to the Meteor resto thread I started........

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-restoration-1#post-4150612

-Nate

Do Bally slingshot assys fit Meteor?

Need a couple.

-Nate

Finned or faceted posts? Which are original?

I had a mixture of both on mine............need to replace.

Thanks!

Just ordered a j-27 1700 coil for slingshots - why is the PBR replacement so much thinner than the original??? Was surprised at the difference between the two.

There's a photo of the two coils side-by-side in my Meteor resto thread.

How the hell can you determine which hole size you have for the coil stops?!?! Pinball life is offering two different size holes (6 vs 8)??

Mine look like the larger hole, they are copper colored.

-Nate

There are such a thing?? Oh geez.........okay, well that's a no-brainer then!!

I would think that messes with the alignment but I guess not since there is play at the other end of the coil bracket?

dothedoo thanks for being there - my Stern guide!!!!

Yep, had that idea also - but dummy me didn't realize you could get both hole sizes on the stops offered by Pinball Life!!!

Ummm, ok............... so it looks like I'm using the #6 hole size regardless of the inclusion of a second set of holes - that second set are there for what reason no one seems to know..................

Think I got it now - I have the older base plate without the bent "legs" on it so the #6 should work - egad these Stern parts!!!!

Stern leaf switches - noticed a weird thing last night - it appears that all the contacts for the leaf switches are "weird." Instead of the contact "buttons" being where the flat-round part faces each other, one round part faces so that it is touching the BACK of the other contact button????

First noticed this on the target mech when I took it apart to clean it - is this how the switches are supposed to be?? I always assumed that both fronts of the buttons made contact???

Stern leaf switches - noticed a weird thing last night - it appears that all the contacts for the leaf switches are "weird."

Instead of the contact "buttons" being where the flat-round part faces each other, one round part faces so that it is touching the BACK of the other contact button????

First noticed this on the target mech when I took it apart to clean it - is this how the switches are supposed to be?? I always assumed that both fronts of the buttons made contact??? (ie: faced each other)

Thanks guys, I thought that wasn't right. I have disassembled the target and actually put it back the same way (doh!!) but as you say, hopefully it will work ok.

Yes, they all appear to be that way.

Thanks for the information - I'll turn them around if they look like they need it.

Wow, damn these old Sterns!!! hahaha.

-Nate

Put me down for a rocket light board please.......

What's the "spinner lights??"

-Nate

I just got a replacement J27 1700 coil for the slings and it looks so much thinner than one of the originals..........why is that? Has anyone else used these replacements and are they strong enough?

Below is a link to a photo of an original versus the replacement from my restoration thread - the winding on the coil is not as "robust" as the original. I want to make sure this is the right thing before wiring it back into my game.

Thanks

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_153442261112912&key=c7cb1c7c419234bebfc593e65880ba05&libId=jkwjk0xk0100qp6d000DAisltoqps&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fpinside.com%2Fpinball%2Fforum%2Ftopic%2Fmeteor-restoration-1&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.pinside.com%2F2%2F29%2F2290eefe28e951564239943d5a5f3cf9d50a1b48%2Fresized%2Flarge%2F2290eefe28e951564239943d5a5f3cf9d50a1b48.jpg&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fpinside.com%2Fpinball%2Fforum%2Ftopic%2Fmeteor-restoration-1%2Fpage%2F2&title=Meteor%20restoration........%20%7C%20Restorations%20documented%20%7C%20Pinside.com&txt=

Thanks for the tip - will do.

Where's a good source for buying pins and connectors? I know someone mentioned where to buy with a link, etc but damn if I can find it now.

Thanks.

Thanks!

Want to make sure I've got this wiring correct on the flipper that controls the 3rd upper flipper........ the black or dark brown wire with white on it is currently on the leaf-switch tab "second in" from the very end. The orange "jumper" wire is on the outermost tab and runs to the left-most coil tab (I put white arrows to show placement). I've seen these two wires also reversed, where the orange jumper is where the black w/white wire is..........does it matter which one is where???

On the upper flipper, am I missing a wire?? I have a jumper going from the middle tab of the coil to the outer tab of the leaf switch. Is there a wire that's supposed to be attached to the other leaf switch tab?

Thanks......

Flipcheck (resized).jpgUpperFlipper (resized).jpg

Shouldn't there be a three-prong plug for Meteor??

I've gotta replace mine as well, but haven't gotten that far yet......

Are the 22-26AWG crimp contacts the size that I want to use?? Of course, when I sit down to make an order, Great Plains is out of stock!!!

Great, thanks.

Installed the LED light boards for the spinner lights and the rocket bonus - a LOT of wires to solder since I didn't use the pinned plugs option, but I tested with an AC adaptor and they seem to work just fine, I'll know once I get my project Meteor up and running.......

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4 (resized).jpg

lovef2k and NeilMcRae:

These are "prototype" boards that were offered for purchase earlier in this topic. I don't think they are available just yet - as this was a "test run" to see how they work out.

-Nate

Ok, so how do you gap the EOS switch on the upper flipper in order to weaken the output so you're not smashing the ball into the METEOR targets at such close range??

The switch is normally closed, and opens when power is sent to it. I can understand if the switch is open you would just increase the gap, but I must be missing something??

Also, is this the easiest way to weaken the flipper other than replacing the coil?

Thanks!!

I looks like using the resistor creates sparks, the pf below that spot was all black - is that correct?

Ok, that makes sense, so I want the eos open so only the "hold winding" will move the flipper up. I'll give it a shot once I get Meteor powered up for the first time.

Thanks!

The 600 coil is used for the upper flipper to make it weaker, so that it won't break the meteor drop targets. Does your coil have two diodes attached?

I've replaced all the coils, I'll have to check that I used the 600 for the upper flipper - I probably did as I went by the parts in the user manual.

Even with the weaker coil, I'd hate to fire up my brand new game and see target heads flying off in all directions!!!

"The 600 coil is used for the upper flipper to make it weaker, so that it won't break the meteor drop targets. Does your coil have two diodes attached?"

I've replaced all the coils, I'll have to check that I used the 600 for the upper flipper - I probably did as I went by the parts in the user manual. It's been a year(!) since I replaced them.

Even with the weaker coil, I'd hate to fire up my brand new game and see target heads flying off in all directions!!!

.

I actually had the same coil at the top as the bottom flippers..........so I swapped it out for the 600 that was in there, and yes, it does have the two diodes attached.

Thanks for the reminder - don't know why I put all three the same, have been following the manual for parts. Glad I double-checked.

Man, what were they thinking, using that puny pf support bar?? I've been adding a second piece of wood trim as a prop arm because that original one has "FAIL" written all over it!!

So fun soldering and replacing a coil with the playfield installed

Need some help, I refurbished my Meteor, have brand new power board, light board, and CPU, re-pinned the plugs running to the little power board beneath the pf and replaced that board also.

When I turn on the machine, I only get the GI lights coming on, there is no attract mode and no power to flippers, etc. I have a glow on the score displays, but not enough juice getting to them to fire up the digits......... I already checked the voltages to the small power board and they are all ok.

I am thinking I have the ribbon cables somehow mis-aligned, for some really dumb reason, there are more pins than there are spaces for pins on the ribbon cable ends?!?!?! Can someone look at my photos and tell me how the hell these cables are supposed to be plugged into the two boards?

Are there any other specific plugs/pins that I should examine that might be damaged and not feeding the right power? I inspected ALL the pins in the plugs and they seem tight and not broken, loose, etc.

Thanks, after getting this rough pin and really great shape, I want to finally play the damn thing! So frustrating......

Ribbon_Cable_1 (resized).jpg

Power_Board_Ribbon_Placement (resized).jpg

Thanks, let me try that and I'll get back to you guys. Incredibly busy lately.

Thanks, I'll check it out and report back.

Works great, recommended.

Ok gang, I'm back. I got the ribbon cables situated correctly. Right to left, and that got the machine to turn on, go through the 7 beeps, and the score displays come on. I can start a game, BUT there is absolutely nothing happening.

There is no power to the flippers, no power to anything on the pf. if I push the flipper buttons, I get just a TEENY amount of upwards movement from the right flipper but you can barely notice it.

What the hell do I check next?? I feel like I'm really close to getting it going, but the game just sits there, all GI lights and the background "thrumming" sound works, but the targets do not re-set. Something is amiss.

Please post things for me to check.

Appreciate the help!

-Nate

Coyote, thanks for the input. Ok, I did a really dumb thing, so it solved part of the problem, but I'm still not "outta the woods" yet. See pic, and you'll notice the damn plug was put on backwards, so once I turned that around this morning after comparing my plugs with someone's photo from pinside, my mouth dropped open and spoke the one word, "Dummy!!!"

Went downstairs and switched that plug around, fired-up the game, and got the following: Attract lighting working, score displays "somewhat" working, it looks like there are a few "wonky" digits - will deal with that later. The ball fed into the lane after pushing "start" (I have a new ROM with the half-score scoring and free play automatically set).

BUT - the machine, without launching the ball, continuously goes through the "re-set" motions, re-setting the targets and also indicating scoring, this is in a loop that just continues every 20 seconds or so.

Suggestions? Would that reversed plug have messed anything up or blown a fuse? The fuses looked fine on the power-board beneath the pf.

Thanks!

Nate

duh (resized).jpg

Thanks, I'll check the switch and report back - appreciate it.

-Nate

Ok, I checked the switch on the outhole. It opens once the ball is sent to the shooter lane - But, I am still getting "phantom scoring" and sounds with the ball simply sitting in the shooter lane.......................

Am I correct thinking that something is crossed somewhere, or something is shorting against something metallic beneath the playfield somewhere in the wiring?

Before I hit the start button, the machine is quiet, and the attract lights are on, but once I hit the start button, the thing goes wacky!!!

Thanks again for any tips,

Nate

That Meteor is looking good! Can't say I ever was a fan of the red posts, I put blue on mine and it looks SOOOO much better with the color scheme. Yummy minty pf!!

Ok, Bluespin, Coyote and Quench - thanks for the input on getting my Meteor playable.

I can indeed shoot some video, I will take a look at the rollovers and check that switch test. Really busy, so can't get to it often right away, but I DO appreciate your input!

Stay tuned........

Nate

Ok, checked all my leaf-switches for contact with game off, there were some switches closed on the drop targets and the brand-new switches and mechs installed for the sling-shots. DOH!

The roll-over stars all looked ok.

I also noticed that the mechs were not aligned properly and would not allow the switches to remain open with the new rubber stretched in front of them, and that the arm for the slingshot was sitting too far back to be effective.

Sooooooooo, I pulled off both mechs, doweled up the holes and let the glue dry overnight. I'll be re-assembling soon and report back! Hope the leaf switches were the problem.

One question, with the new arms for the slingshots, how close should the rubber be to the rocker arm when it is in the "resting" position" I figure it should be as close as possible to allow for maximum rebound?

Nate

My drops are sitting low, I think that has been a problem discussed earlier on this thread. I plan to secure a flat rod onto the lift arm beneath the targets to take up about a small portion of space so the targets sit fully displayed in their pf slot. Keep this in mind when re-assembling.

Does adjusting the two set-screws on either side of the round bar where the platform that swings up to re-set the drop targets help at all to raise the drops higher above the pf line?

If you loosen those can you swing the bar in either direction to get more height and then re-set the screws??

Ok, thanks.

Quick help - can someone post a picture of the two ribbon cables running from the sound board to the MPU?

Mine are not plugged in properly (wrong pins) and I can't get the machine running correctly, I think that is the problem. Why the hell did they make more pins on the board(s) than the ribbon cables have???? It's driving me crazy.

So if I could get a shot of the ribbon cables showing the clear order of pins used on the sound board, and then a shot of the MPU showing the clear order of connect I would really appreciate it!

One more whole shot of the ribbon cables also, mine appear to "cross" ie: the J1 is on the first row on the sound board but connects to the second row on the MPU and the J2 is on the second row on the sound board but connects to the first row on the MPU.

-Nate

DSC_8916 (resized).JPG

Thanks, I will get this into place and report back, it seems like this is making my game act up, I will inspect the wires, although they seem very hard to diagnose since they are very thin and coated with the plastic "ribbon". Urgh.

I do have 17 pin cables.

Nate

I don't have any of those .100 header pins, I do have a continuity setting on my meter. I'm very "green" to this stuff but doing my best to learn. Thank you again, I'm getting ready to reseat those ribbon cables.....

Got the ribbon cables installed correctly.

When I turn on game, it goes through the 7 chimes and all score displays are lit.

Pressing the start button causes the machine to go into a loop of constantly resetting, and I have no reaction in slings pops, etc.

Above link is a video, really appreciate any guidance, I'm ready to play!!

Thanks so much Coyote and Lovef2k and Quench!

I have looked at that switch, and it must be broken, it appears working but obviously is not registering. I will order a new one. Is there a substitute that I should know about - I know some parts are hard to obtain if relying on the Stern original parts and numbers......?.....................

Is that switch being unresponsive also related to not having any power at any solenoids?

Quench - thanks for the flipper hint! This is my first early Stern so I had no idea the placement was different - I would definitely be an un-happy flipper not being able to make those shots!!

Appreciate all the help, you guys are great.

Nate

Ok, damn. I looked at the switch tonight and made sure the contacts were not touching when the ball was not sitting on it. I also re-soldered the wires and checked for any damage. The machine is still going nuts. Here are some photos. Also, I had a WTF!! moment trying to deal with the diagnostic tests Man, I can't keep track of the number appearing on the score display and the "sound" of the solenoid to keep track of anything that wasn't firing?!?!

And the switch test didn't seem to be doing anything........I will post photos of the ribbon cable placement for ss-pinball, and the switch stack.

Video of the test modes may have to wait until tomorrow.

I appreciate you guys helping me - so frustrating to be so close!!

20201123_213912 (resized).jpg

20201123_214024 (resized).jpg

20201123_214140 (resized).jpg

20201123_214357 (resized).jpg

20201123_214418 (resized).jpg

20201123_214445 (resized).jpg

Thanks, that brown wire is soldered to the lowest of the 3 tabs. I tried to get a clear shot a few times of that.

Quench, thanks for the leaf switch catch, I'll adjust that.

I appreciate your help with the diagnosis. Just for fun here is me in the video, to be sure, I had a confused look on my face!!

You can see where it looks to be cycling through the correct steps, pf lights all lit, etc.

I'll go back tonight and try the switch diagnostic again.

Excuse the score displays, I'll fiddle with those later......I guess one digit out could be the molex connector??

Thank you again, I'm trying my best!

They are little flasher bulbs that came with the game, "old fashioned" round headed, clear. I'm going to move those two to the tails of the rockets in the foreground backglass.

Thanks everyone for your help! Meteor is finally up and running!!

Now, I don't know exactly what I did (!) but there were obviously some closed/touching switches that I missed first time around.

Lifting the pf, I inspected *everything* and checked wires for breaks, bends, all switches on drop targets, noticed a switch touching on the METEOR target bank. I also noticed the "R" remaining down, so I think fixing the closed switch solved that problem, I was thinking it was mechanical, but it wasn't.

After inspecting I closed the pf, fired it up (Oh, I also fixed that outhole switch so it was not sandwiched between a couple of leaf switches as someone noticed).

Bingo! Whatever I adjusted solved the problem. I did figure out that (to me) hard to follow switch matrix test, and noticed that "01" also displaying. I just touched the coin door switches, but didn't really do anything to them. Those Stern tests had me laughing, you're supposed to follow the numbers while they flip by at a good pace and *listen* for either a mechanical sound or a speaker noise!.........I was laughing trying to follow that, it goes fairly quickly through all the numbers!!!

Anyway, I'm a happy camper. I have a question about the EOS switch opening used in order to have the upper flipper reduce power. How exactly does that work?? Is that done at the right-hand flipper at the bottom or at the upper flipper leaf switch?? Photos if anyone did this would help me.

Thank you again, I appreciate your help, I think you guys are great and patient - you definitely pointed to the right general direction.

Hope you all had a Happy Thanksgiving!!

Nate

slochar, thanks for the reply. I got it, and will open that upper fllipper gap so I don't break those targets.

The manual for Meteor says this, "....each solenoid to be energized, one at a time, in a continuous sequence........the number appearing on the Player Score displays is the same as the number assigned to the solenoid. The sound of a solenoid pulling-in as a number appears indicates proper operation. The absence of a sound shows a fault.....see Solenoid ID page in game book for help in Solenoid identification."

Anyway, it's working, thanks for everyone's input.

Must've missed all the chatter about the new Meteor ruleset. Does that complete Arduino sold by Roygbev install ok on a barakandl PCB?

Thanks.

Nate

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, a Weebly - I hope it'll work! I messaged Barakandl, no reply so far........I'm assuming that is Andrew?

For the new Meteor code (Dick thanks so much for working on these older Sterns, that is awesome work you are doing!!), No on the Barakandl board for now, and YES if I purchase an allteksystems board is what I am seeing?

Dick, have you thought about re-doing the code for Wild-Fyre? That is a simple, fun game, but it could use a little beefing up as well.................

Personally, I hate the red posts on Meteor, I put blue on and it looks so much better!!

Sure, my resto thread is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-restoration-1/page/2 Pages 2 and 4 have some playfield shots.

Here's one more.

20200718_173835 (resized).jpg

Having a crazy time figuring out an issue on my Meteor

The "3" drop bank is not working correctly. The bottom target (towards player) does not register, the top two targets go down, but once all three targets are down, the bank does not re-set, and you only ever score the middle and upper "3" on the rocket ladder.

I checked the wiring, it is complete and looks correct. What plug on the MPU are the targets wired to? I want to check that plug connector and am thinking about re-soldering the entire target bank to see if all connections are solid.

Also, my switch test is not working. I cannot drop a target and get a corresponding indicating number on the backglass.

Oh, also, my "Shoot Again" light always lights up after playing a ball for a short time, is this a setting that perhaps is set way too low on the dip switches?

Nate

Would this work for the drop springs? I have a similar problem with drops not remaining up - was glad to see your post.

How much of a difference is there in this spring (5003-00) and the 5003-03??

-Nate

Ok, gameplay question, what is the outlane light on either side that says "Collect Rocket Bonus?" where your ball drains out?

The only thing I could remotely come up with is that somehow your 2x, 3x, etcetera bonus is held-over into the next ball-in-play unless you drain where this light is lit - then you somehow get points for whatever bonus level you had, and the bonus then re-sets to zero??

Yes, what Robotworkshop said above, but in my case I ran a pair of jumper wires from the Arduino to the front of the cab for easy access in a tight lineup of pins.

So you just spliced more wire onto the 5v supply wires plugged into the new board and ran each end onto an end of the switch? Getting ready to install mine this week.

-Nate

Added 13 months ago:

Didn't mean to quote myself........getting back to the toggle switch, did you guys just extend the yellow and blue wire from the power plug on the new board and solder to an "on off" switch?

Thanks.