(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

By pinballholder

8 years ago


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  • 3,000 posts
  • 242 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 days ago by ibis
  • Topic is favorited by 115 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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#2951 50 days ago

Here’s pictures of the drip target assembly. Let me know what you guys think of it’s a Bally or a Stern.

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#2952 50 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

Here’s pictures of the drip target assembly. Let me know what you guys think of it’s a Bally or a Stern.

Definitely stern

#2953 50 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

Here’s pictures of the drip target assembly. Let me know what you guys think of it’s a Bally or a Stern.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Based on the one I have, your bottom plate is on backwards... And I'm guessing having the longer piece of the "U" on the switch side you are seeing them hang up, as I don't think the shaft slots would be long enough to allow full drop travel. The holes on the bottom should be on the side with the drop targets. Does it even score?

#2954 50 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

Here’s pictures of the drip target assembly. Let me know what you guys think of it’s a Bally or a Stern.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bottom plate is definitely on backwards. The bottom of the targets should rest in those holes when down. Good call @swinks.

Another thing that makes the targets hang up is too much tension on the switch leaf blades. They need to be adjusted just enough to push the blade and make contact.

#2955 50 days ago

Thanks for the input!! I will rotate that bottom plate tomorrow and report back!

#2956 50 days ago

I’m still doing some tweaking but I am getting close to done.

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#2957 50 days ago

The black bats with the blue rubbers is a nice aesthetic touch.

#2958 49 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Bottom plate is definitely on backwards. The bottom of the targets should rest in those holes when down. Good call @swinks.
Another thing that makes the targets hang up is too much tension on the switch leaf blades. They need to be adjusted just enough to push the blade and make contact.

All fixed, correct fix!! Thanks!

#2959 49 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

All fixed, correct fix!! Thanks!

so switching around solved the target height when dropped...

#2960 49 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

so switching around solved the target height when dropped...

YES! I should have seen that from the other three drops, they were fine and didn't notice the holes in the bottom plate. I think I have a few other minor issues though, I don't want to post quite yet because I have a busy schedule the next day or two but once I fired it up, the three smaller drops would try to reset in the up position and just dont have enough power. And, all the feature lights are constantly on. When I try to go into test mode, one coil fires and displays try to roll through numbers then the game freezes. Ill have to dig into those later, Im sure its just wiring. The game was a mess when I got it.

#2961 46 days ago

Ok I had time to dig into what the exact problems I am running into with my initial start up of this game. This game came to me non-working and a hot mess so I think my issues aren't so bad all things considering lol!

Game has all Alltek boards with the exception of the sound board; driver, MPU and light board. It also has a new WEEBLY rectifier board that I built as a kit years ago that I dropped in there. All feature sockets are Yops.

- I have some feature lights not working in game but DO work in test.

- The three smaller drop targets struggle to reset. Not mechanically, electrically. In other words the coils just seem to be struggling. I can post a video if needed.

- The most strange.....when in test mode, EVERYTHING is testing at the same time. Displays, sound, coils all are running through test in unison.

I am sure most of this is a wire/connector foul-up of some sort. I can repin all day long and I have a wiring schematic but pinpointing where I should look is where I need help. Depending on how late I have to work I will report back what I find after I have some suggestions.

Thanks!

#2962 46 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

The most strange.....when in test mode, EVERYTHING is testing at the same time. Displays, sound, coils all are running through test in unison.

Not really that's a feature of stern self test first press is burn in everything is tested at once. Press self test switch again to go to lamps then displays solenoids switches.

#2963 45 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Not really that's a feature of stern self test first press is burn in everything is tested at once. Press self test switch again to go to lamps then displays solenoids switches.

I let it cycle a few times in the fashion of everything testing at the same time and then pressed the right switch, the test feature goes blank, game pretty much goes blank. Re-booted and I tired pressing the other button and nothing happens. I checked the wiring of the test switches compared to a Flight 2000(in my shop) and they are correct. Does the MPU need to see it 'burn' in before it goes to normal test function?

I may have figured out why I have some feature lights out but not sure. Connector J2 on the MPU board has some green slime from the wire-jacket decomposing, and about three pins are full of it. Going to re-pin this weekend and I'll report back.

The weak 1-2-3's drop-resets are still concerning. I wonder if that is also a connector just not making good contact?

#2964 45 days ago

Nope the burn in part is just the first part of the tests it should go to the next test.

#2965 44 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

I let it cycle a few times in the fashion of everything testing at the same time and then pressed the right switch, the test feature goes blank, game pretty much goes blank. Re-booted and I tired pressing the other button and nothing happens. I checked the wiring of the test switches compared to a Flight 2000(in my shop) and they are correct. Does the MPU need to see it 'burn' in before it goes to normal test function?
I may have figured out why I have some feature lights out but not sure. Connector J2 on the MPU board has some green slime from the wire-jacket decomposing, and about three pins are full of it. Going to re-pin this weekend and I'll report back.
The weak 1-2-3's drop-resets are still concerning. I wonder if that is also a connector just not making good contact?

Vinegar works well to remove the slime.
Check your solder connections on all coils. These are daisy chained by a common wire, usually yellow, so you need a gold connection between them.

#2966 44 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Vinegar works well to remove the slime.
Check your solder connections on all coils. These are daisy chained by a common wire, usually yellow, so you need a gold connection between them.

Good connection

#2967 44 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Vinegar works well to remove the slime.
Check your solder connections on all coils. These are daisy chained by a common wire, usually yellow, so you need a gold connection between them.

Good call! I may have one bad connection making the others suffer. All coils were removed so it’s possible one is not holding the joint as it should! Thanks for the help!! I’ll repost back. Tomorrow I’m going to clean up the slime and work on the coils too.

#2968 43 days ago

Update: checked all the coil connections and they are solid. Also replaced the driver board connectors. Small drops are still not resting.

Also replaced the connectors on the right side of the light board to no avail. Still stumped. Still having some feature lamps out in game mode(light in test).

#2969 43 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

Update: checked all the coil connections and they are solid. Also replaced the driver board connectors. Small drops are still not resting.
Also replaced the connectors on the right side of the light board to no avail. Still stumped. Still having some feature lamps out in game mode(light in test).

Sounds like you need to start at the basics. Test points on rectifier board first. Your coil voltage seems good since game needs it to fully boot.

If the alltek mpu was used in a previous game, verify the jumpers are set for Meteor and also do a memory clear per alltek directions in their manual.

A video of the sluggish coils may help. Verify that the reset linkage is moving freely. If coils were overheated they may have swelled causing the sluggish performance. Also verify that the correct coils are installed. Manually reset the banks by pushing plunger up, if they reset then you have an electrical issue. If not, the bar may need adjustment. You can also try to fire the reset coil by grounding the solder tab to ground on the cabinet to see of they fire normally.

At coin door, check self test switch solder tabs to make sure they are not bent and touching ground. Coin door should be grounded to the cabinet braid via metal strips behind the door trim. You need to get self test into coils and switch test mode to investigate further.

Not sure if yops have a built in resistor to eliminate strobing, if not there needs to be a jumper wire from the lamp driver to feature lamp power bus since yops have led lamps. Check your alltek lamp driver manual if you have it.

#2970 43 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Sounds like you need to start at the basics. Test points on rectifier board first. Your coil voltage seems good since game needs it to fully boot.
If the alltek mpu was used in a previous game, verify the jumpers are set for Meteor and also do a memory clear per alltek directions in their manual.
A video of the sluggish coils may help. Verify that the reset linkage is moving freely. If coils were overheated they may have swelled causing the sluggish performance. Also verify that the correct coils are installed. Manually reset the banks by pushing plunger up, if they reset then you have an electrical issue. If not, the bar may need adjustment. You can also try to fire the reset coil by grounding the solder tab to ground on the cabinet to see of they fire normally.
At coin door, check self test switch solder tabs to make sure they are not bent and touching ground. Coin door should be grounded to the cabinet braid via metal strips behind the door trim. You need to get self test into coils and switch test mode to investigate further.
Not sure if yops have a built in resistor to eliminate strobing, if not there needs to be a jumper wire from the lamp driver to feature lamp power bus since yops have led lamps. Check your alltek lamp driver manual if you have it.

For jumpers I meant dip switches

#2971 43 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

For jumpers I meant dip switches

Just thought of this, check the solenoid driver transistors for any signs of overheating. I have seen this on alltek boards before. The solder will actually melt away and the transistor becomes loose.

#2972 43 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The solder will actually melt away and the transistor becomes loose.

This has happened to be twice on two different Allteks. In both cases, the solder melted away enough that the surface mount transistor slid right off the board and landed in the lower cab. I'm not good with surface mount soldering, so Dave fixed both for free even tho it was likely the coil's fault, not the Alltek board.

#2973 42 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

This has happened to be twice on two different Allteks. In both cases, the solder melted away enough that the surface mount transistor slid right off the board and landed in the lower cab. I'm not good with surface mount soldering, so Dave fixed both for free even tho it was likely the coil's fault, not the Alltek board.

Alltek has great customer support.

#2974 42 days ago

"If the alltek mpu was used in a previous game, verify the jumpers are set for Meteor and also do a memory clear per alltek directions in their manual."

This board was straight out of the box

"A video of the sluggish coils may help. Verify that the reset linkage is moving freely. If coils were overheated they may have swelled causing the sluggish performance."

Good call, linkage moves freely and nothing seems like it's being challenged with resistance when manually reset. I can still send a video if needed, it will show one bank barely resetting, the next lifting drops about 1/8 of an inch before giving up, and the last set twitching.

"Also verify that the correct coils are installed"

Original wrappers showed they were the correct coils prior to me replacing the wrappers with new ones.

"You can also try to fire the reset coil by grounding the solder tab to ground on the cabinet to see of they fire normally"

I tried that tonight but now the game wont boot......Ill report back when I can dig a little further, this is a new thing that has happened.

#2975 42 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

"If the alltek mpu was used in a previous game, verify the jumpers are set for Meteor and also do a memory clear per alltek directions in their manual."
This board was straight out of the box
"A video of the sluggish coils may help. Verify that the reset linkage is moving freely. If coils were overheated they may have swelled causing the sluggish performance."
Good call, linkage moves freely and nothing seems like it's being challenged with resistance when manually reset. I can still send a video if needed, it will show one bank barely resetting, the next lifting drops about 1/8 of an inch before giving up, and the last set twitching.
"Also verify that the correct coils are installed"
Original wrappers showed they were the correct coils prior to me replacing the wrappers with new ones.
"You can also try to fire the reset coil by grounding the solder tab to ground on the cabinet to see of they fire normally"
I tried that tonight but now the game wont boot......Ill report back when I can dig a little further, this is a new thing that has happened.

Game needs coil voltage for 7th flash of mpu. You may have blown the fuse?
Maybe coil is bad. Put VOM across the lugs and check resistance. I'll measure mine and report what I get. No need to disconnect or clip diode.

#2976 42 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Game needs coil voltage for 7th flash of mpu. You may have blown the fuse?
Maybe coil is bad. Put VOM across the lugs and check resistance. I'll measure mine and report what I get. No need to disconnect or clip diode.

I got 32.9 ohms on a B-27-2300 coil.

#2977 40 days ago

Is that voltage with the diode on?

#2978 39 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

Is that voltage with the diode on?

No that's resistance. Measure with power off.

#2979 38 days ago

About to order a set of Wolffpac displays for my Meteor Restore. What are the thoughts on different colors like Red or Blue for the displays for Meteor?
Playfields been done for 2 years and the cabinet almost a year now. It will get finished and taken straight to the Southern Fried Gaming Expo in Atlanta July 19-21

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#2980 38 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

About to order a set of Wolffpac displays for my Meteor Restore. What are the thoughts on different colors like Red or Blue for the displays for Meteor?
Playfields been done for 2 years and the cabinet almost a year now. It will get finished and taken straight to the Southern Fried Gaming Expo in Atlanta July 19-21
[quoted image][quoted image]

I pretty much only buy the Pinitech white displays for all my restores. This way I can change the color to anything I want by changing the filter film (which they also sell).

#2981 38 days ago

Original or white. I haven't cared for the others I've seen but I'm not hot into mods.

#2982 38 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

About to order a set of Wolffpac displays for my Meteor Restore. What are the thoughts on different colors like Red or Blue for the displays for Meteor?
Playfields been done for 2 years and the cabinet almost a year now. It will get finished and taken straight to the Southern Fried Gaming Expo in Atlanta July 19-21
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking good! Which drops did you use?

#2983 38 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

About to order a set of Wolffpac displays for my Meteor Restore.

Consider upgrading to 7-digit displays..

#2984 38 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Consider upgrading to 7-digit displays..

Can that be done with an Alltek MPU?

#2985 38 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Can that be done with an Alltek MPU?

It can but needs a little bit of reformatting and reburning the combo rom.

#2986 37 days ago
Quoted from ibis:

Update: checked all the coil connections and they are solid. Also replaced the driver board connectors. Small drops are still not resting.
Also replaced the connectors on the right side of the light board to no avail. Still stumped. Still having some feature lamps out in game mode(light in test).

This may be a dumb question, but have you checked your connections at your rectifier board? I think on every Stern I have restored, I’ve made the mistake of being one pin off on my J1 connector. If you try to drive the coils with low voltage, they don’t work.

Picture of the last time I made that mistake
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trident-2020-restoration-/page/2#post-6421555

#2987 32 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

This may be a dumb question, but have you checked your connections at your rectifier board? I think on every Stern I have restored, I’ve made the mistake of being one pin off on my J1 connector. If you try to drive the coils with low voltage, they don’t work.
Picture of the last time I made that mistake
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trident-2020-restoration-/page/2#post-6421555

OK so a minor update. I talked to a friend who has had a bunch of classic Sterns come through his collection and workshop. He just had the same issue happen and he attributed it to worn and sloppy linkages as well as misaligned coil and stop. His suggestion is to loosen the coil and stop as well as the plunger guide and retighten gently to keep everything straight. The mech is old and worn so any resistance could act as a bigger problem then it is. Secondly he said he has used this trick for many Bally and C-Sterns to help worn linkage. Place a strip of velcro(fuzzy part) where the lift bar rests. It takes up a bit of the slack that has occurred from the worn linkage and it doesn't effect the drops position, thus making the stroke of the linkage slightly less. Ill giver it a go this weekend and see what happens!!

#2988 30 days ago

UPDATE: So I got the drops fixed! The velcro strips really helped on two of the drop banks. The third bank was still struggling so I took it out and realized that most all the pivot points were really stiff. I disassembled the bank and cleaned up the plunger with some sandpaper and used some dry lubricant so there would be no resistance in the metal coil sleeve. Also did the same for the main axel that pushes up the lift bar. Added the velcro strip and it works like a charm!

#2989 30 days ago

All the aluminum metal coil sleeves should be replaced with the equivalent nylon sleeves to avoid this.

#2990 30 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

All the aluminum metal coil sleeves should be replaced with the equivalent nylon sleeves to avoid this.

Is it acceptable to run the aluminum sleeves in the tumbler instead of replacing? That's what I usually do.

#2991 30 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Is it acceptable to run the aluminum sleeves in the tumbler instead of replacing? That's what I usually do.

You still have the core issue of increased friction while the nylon is self lubricating which is why I just change them ... It's a wear point.

#2992 30 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

You still have the core issue of increased friction while the nylon is self lubricating which is why I just change them ... It's a wear point.

Very true. I just need to order a bag of spares for future games. They are bigguns'

#2993 30 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

About to order a set of Wolffpac displays for my Meteor Restore. What are the thoughts on different colors like Red or Blue for the displays for Meteor?
Playfields been done for 2 years and the cabinet almost a year now. It will get finished and taken straight to the Southern Fried Gaming Expo in Atlanta July 19-21
[quoted image][quoted image]

I did red wolffpacs.

Btw, I keep debating on selling my really nice Gorgar to go back to a really nice Meteor

IMG_8111 (resized).jpegIMG_8111 (resized).jpeg
#2994 29 days ago

I bought this Meteor over 5 years ago for $500 and it was trashed and barely turned on and was unplayable. It sat for a few years before I built my own cabinet with a friend who has a large CNC. Then the cabinet sat for a few more years. I would do other peoples swaps and tear downs and this project always got set aside. Finally I decided to stop doing others projects and focus on this game. Honestly I was tired of it taking up space lol!! I have yet to add the new code and speakers but that is coming soon! Played about ten games on it and almost dialed in! It does have the original style pop bumper mech(strange metal plate type) and Im thinking of swapping it out to the larger white plastic one that mount underneath. What do you guys think?

Thanks to all who have helped me with the issues I ran into as well!

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#2995 29 days ago

I used the metal pop assembly modified to use the plastic rod n ring from the newer style. I think the hole might not be large enough for the plastic base you have to trim the base down to fit.

I have a meteor PF waiting for a trashed project to go into as my other meteor is far too nice to swap it into, but it's a popular donor for the scratch builds because it's plentiful and has lots of drop banks.

1 week later
#2996 22 days ago

Playing a bunch of games on my new restore. Seems when the spinner is ripped the sound doesn't activate. The game has an original sound board in it. Is this common? I imagine the board could have a hard time keeping up with the rapid spin of the switch.

And I know there is no free-play setting, but what is the best way to set the game up for an easy award for a free game? Didn't look like there was many options other than beating the high score?

#2997 22 days ago

Easy award 10k. First adjustment.

Change rom free play roms available on pinwiki

The sound should not happen that way though you should get some sound even if it can't keep up unless your spinner is really juiced I suppose

#2998 22 days ago

First adjustment is high score feature

#2999 22 days ago

Adjustments 1 2 3 are replay levels. 4 is current hstd.

#3000 22 days ago

Perfect, just switched dip-switch #6 to ON and set it to 10k and it awards a new game every time! Thanks!!!!

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