(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

By pinballholder

7 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 2,586 posts
  • 216 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by JOESCHALL
  • Topic is favorited by 109 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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Meteor Fuses (resized).png
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Switch Assemblies (resized).jpg
Spinner Parts 2 (resized).jpg
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Drop Targets - Meteor (resized).jpg
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There are 2,586 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 52.
#2551 54 days ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

Check the fuse F5 on the rectifier board next. If that's bad, it should be replaced with a 20A fast blow fuse. If F5 is good, check TP4 on the rectifier and verify that you have about 7.3VAC.

Thanks for that, it was a flakey fuse holder on F5. Fixed that and now I have light!

#2552 53 days ago

Could I get some help understanding the schematics. Im trying to track down what seems to be column 0 (st0) on the schematic but dont see any kind of reference on the driver or mpu in regards to the tilt, credit, coin up and slam switch. My credit button and coin slots dont seem to be working and the tilt switch seems to be coming in and out even though I have it disconnected. Or if someone has a clear mpu schematic where you can actually read whats on there.
Thanks

#2553 53 days ago

The switches are shown on two different pages in the schematics one shows the playfield switches and another that shows the cabinet.

#2554 53 days ago

I have found a clearer mpu version, the flight 2000 manual @ipdb has a very nice one.

#2555 53 days ago

The seawitch 11x17 scan is very nice as well.

I see what you mean about the meteor one, the scan in my archive is terrible, really unusable.

At any rate there's a ton of switches shown with disc capacitors on them - including lots that don't need it (like drop banks). Cut those off, these almost always need to be replaced on this era game bally/stern, and can cause issues with the switch matrix.

If your tilt is bouncing even when disconnected that could be it depending on where you disconnected it, but a bad switch cap can affect other switches in the row/column too. The only switches that need it are the tilt (if you like it sensitive), the pop bumper, and the slings. The pops and slings need it because of the way the game fires them, often you'd get a pop popping but no score for it without it.

#2556 53 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

The seawitch 11x17 scan is very nice as well.
I see what you mean about the meteor one, the scan in my archive is terrible, really unusable.
At any rate there's a ton of switches shown with disc capacitors on them - including lots that don't need it (like drop banks). Cut those off, these almost always need to be replaced on this era game bally/stern, and can cause issues with the switch matrix.
If your tilt is bouncing even when disconnected that could be it depending on where you disconnected it, but a bad switch cap can affect other switches in the row/column too. The only switches that need it are the tilt (if you like it sensitive), the pop bumper, and the slings. The pops and slings need it because of the way the game fires them, often you'd get a pop popping but no score for it without it.

Ill check out the seawitch scan thanks. I took one of the legs off the disc cap at the tilt bob. While its in test mode for the switches. 07 comes and goes on the displays. When I press the credit button nothing comes up on the display.

3 weeks later
#2557 26 days ago

Happy to have just joined the club by purchasing a Meteor that has some project elements, and I'm really looking forward to digging further into this machine. Some of those project elements might be addressed by way of replacing the Bally/Stern rectifier board, which I'm told is a good first step and a good idea or even a must from other pinsiders regardless of machine status. That said, my skills are limited and I want to be sure to choose the simplest route possible with no soldering. Looking at my options and the related instructions for the product, it looks like the xpin replacement board might be the way to go for me:

https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-bly2518-ebr/

Opinions are welcome!

#2558 25 days ago

Weekend bump.

#2559 25 days ago

I repinned all my connectors at mpu,sdb and rectifier.
Good place to start.
Check into Dick hamills new meteor code once you are up
and running.
It's fantastic.
Also wolfpac led displays in red are a cool feature to add.
Then you don't need the high voltage .
Can sell your old displays .

Have fun.
When I get a new pin i read the entire owners
thread. You will learn alot.

20220312_150156 (resized).jpg
#2560 25 days ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

I repinned all my connectors at mpu,sdb and rectifier.
Good place to start.
Check into Dick hamills new meteor code once you are up
and running.
It's fantastic.
Also wolfpac led displays in red are a cool feature to add.
Then you don't need the high voltage .
Can sell your old displays .

Have fun.
When I get a new pin i read the entire owners
thread. You will learn alot.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I wish I had the skill level to do repinning. I read just a bit of the thread and did see the new Meteor code and watched the video. Absolutely intriguing. I still have a lot to learn about this title. As you suggested, I will read the full thread.

#2561 25 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Thanks for the detailed reply. I wish I had the skill level to do repinning. I read just a bit of the thread and did see the new Meteor code and watched the video. Absolutely intriguing. I still have a lot to learn about this title. As you suggested, I will read the full thread.

Believe me when I say I have fat sausage fingers but after reading about and watching pindudes youtube video and getting the right crimper and crimps it's not hard.

You just repeat repeat repeat

It feels good to me to actually do minor repairs on boards etc.

Was scared before .

#2562 25 days ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Believe me when I say I have fat sausage fingers but after reading about and watching pindudes youtube video and getting the right crimper and crimps it's not hard.

You just repeat repeat repeat

It feels good to me to actually do minor repairs on boards etc.

Was scared before .

Thanks. Appreciate the encouragement. I used to be scared of soldering as well, but no more. One never knows . . .

#2563 24 days ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Believe me when I say I have fat sausage fingers but after reading about and watching pindudes youtube video and getting the right crimper and crimps it's not hard.
You just repeat repeat repeat
It feels good to me to actually do minor repairs on boards etc.
Was scared before .

+1 Not my native skillset but repinning these boards isn't difficult with the right tools and a little practice.

#2564 24 days ago

Does anyone know the part number for the spinner switch? Mine is in terrible shape, but at least works still.

I’m gathering all the parts necessary to restore my Meteor this winter.

#2565 24 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Does anyone know the part number for the spinner switch? Mine is in terrible shape, but at least works still.
I’m gathering all the parts necessary to restore my Meteor this winter.

Found these in the 1979 Stern Parts catalog if they're of any help.

Spinner Parts (resized).jpgSpinner Parts 2 (resized).jpgSwitch Assemblies (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2566 14 days ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Believe me when I say I have fat sausage fingers but after reading about and watching pindudes youtube video and getting the right crimper and crimps it's not hard.
You just repeat repeat repeat
It feels good to me to actually do minor repairs on boards etc.
Was scared before .

Don't forget to take a break every so often...or else

563d94e8ca425.image (resized).jpg
#2567 12 days ago

Machine - For Sale
Fully restored (full original status) “Red Meteor that I did long restoration on. Look up my thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-1st-swap-resto#post-6832050 Also on YouTube . https://m.youtube.com/w...”
14 days ago
Mount Washington, KY
4,500 (OBO)

nice meteor for sale.

#2568 7 days ago

Can someone please verify the correct fuse value for F4 on the bridge rectifier board? I'm not finding it in the manual.

#2569 7 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Can someone please verify the correct fuse value for F4 on the bridge rectifier board? I'm not finding it in the manual.

F4 = 5A

Meteor Fuses (resized).png
#2570 7 days ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

Can someone please verify the correct fuse value for F4 on the bridge rectifier board? I'm not finding it in the manual.

F4 = 5A

Thanks so much. And for Meteor 2021!

#2571 3 days ago

Glad to say that my project Meteor is now running after I installed a new xpin Bally/Stern rectifier board and a friend diagnosed some MPU problems and replaced a few chips. Now I'm looking into some other upgrades.

Is there an option for plug-and-play low-voltage 7-digit (rather than 6-digit) displays for this title, or am I dreaming?

#2572 3 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Glad to say that my project Meteor is now running after I installed a new xpin Bally/Stern rectifier board and a friend diagnosed some MPU problems and replaced a few chips. Now I'm looking into some other upgrades.
Is there an option for plug-and-play low-voltage 7-digit (rather than 6-digit) displays for this title, or am I dreaming?

If you have the right software sure. You do have to run a wire from the mpu board connector to all the displays except the match display (fits in an empty space in the harness).

There are several 7 digit variants of meteor floating around, but I'm not sure if the meteor 2021 on the arduino support it (probably could be added relatively easily if not.... the 7th digit enable isn't used for anything else on mpu200 games when they are 6 digit)

All of the makers of 7 digit bally/stern led displays would be able to be used.... pinitech, wolfpak, pinled, xpin, etc. (except maybe the xpin 7volution displays, they do something different)

#2573 3 days ago

As mentioned, a software update and some wire gets the job done. I'll just add that it is well worth the effort on a game like Meteor. Scott Charles (seymour.shabow) burned the rom for me many years ago (pre-Pinside) so I have lost track of the program's location on the internet.

#2574 3 days ago
Quoted from Evets:

Scott Charles (seymourshabow) burned a the rom for me many years ago (pre-Pinside) so I have lost track of the program's location on the internet.

I no longer have extra ROM chips to do this but the software is now at http://tsqmadness.com/slochar/

#2575 2 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

If you have the right software sure. You do have to run a wire from the mpu board connector to all the displays except the match display (fits in an empty space in the harness).

There are several 7 digit variants of meteor floating around, but I'm not sure if the meteor 2021 on the arduino support it (probably could be added relatively easily if not.... the 7th digit enable isn't used for anything else on mpu200 games when they are 6 digit)

All of the makers of 7 digit bally/stern led displays would be able to be used.... pinitech, wolfpak, pinled, xpin, etc. (except maybe the xpin 7volution displays, they do something different)

Very detailed. Thanks!

Quoted from slochar:

I no longer have extra ROM chips to do this but the software is now at http://tsqmadness.com/slochar/

Again, thanks!

#2576 2 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

I no longer have extra ROM chips to do this but the software is now at http://tsqmadness.com/slochar/

And now I've learned that slochar is seymour.shabow. I mention this only because you helped me quite a bit in the RGP days when I was starting out, and I'm delighted to learn that you are still here. Anyways, thanks for all the help when I first got into the hobby.

#2577 1 day ago
Quoted from Evets:

And now I've learned that slochar is seymour.shabow. I mention this only because you helped me quite a bit in the RGP days when I was starting out, and I'm delighted to learn that you are still here. Anyways, thanks for all the help when I first got into the hobby.

Evets--you're most welcome. Glad I was of some help to you in the past, limited as I am in my skillset. I would never have sustained this long in the hobby without the help of pinsiders.

On the 7-digit display upgrade, I've decided against it and will likely stick with my original displays (or add 6-digit replacements) and invest my Meteor money into other upgrades. Still troubleshooting some minor switch issues and considering those other upgrades, so I'm sure I'll be posting more questions to this thread. Again, thanks for your advice, and long live pinside!

#2578 1 day ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Evets--you're most welcome. Glad I was of some help to you in the past, limited as I am in my skillset. I would never have sustained this long in the hobby without the help of pinsiders.
On the 7-digit display upgrade, I've decided against it and will likely stick with my original displays (or add 6-digit replacements) and invest my Meteor money into other upgrades. Still troubleshooting some minor switch issues and considering those other upgrades, so I'm sure I'll be posting more questions to this thread. Again, thanks for your advice, and long live pinside!

If you do the Arduino/2021 Code update mod to your MPU, not only do you get a very cool new rule set and sound package but your 6-digit displays will do 7-digit scoring (via scrolling). I love it.

#2579 1 day ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

If you do the Arduino/2021 Code update mod to your MPU, not only do you get a very cool new rule set and sound package but your 6-digit displays will do 7-digit scoring (via scrolling). I love it.

This is exactly the upgrade I am thinking of once I'm done troubleshooting the few remaining issues, and part of why sticking with the 6-digit works for me. Thanks for confirming.

#2580 1 day ago

When I boot my MPU--the original board--I get two beeps, then a pause--followed by five beeps. Can someone confirm if this is the correct number of beeps or whether it's implicating an MPU chip issue?

#2581 1 day ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

When I boot my MPU--the original board--I get two beeps, then a pause--followed by five beeps. Can someone confirm if this is the correct number of beeps or whether it's implicating an MPU chip issue?

That's fine it corresponds to the LED flashing during the bootup tests.

The 3rd beep takes a longer time than the equivalent flash on a bally board because stern has a full byte on the 5101 pair instead of a nibble on the bally boards, so it's got more values to test in the ram than the bally does.

#2582 1 day ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

This is exactly the upgrade I am thinking of once I'm done troubleshooting the few remaining issues, and part of why sticking with the 6-digit works for me. Thanks for confirming.

If you're interested in this mod but haven't seen it in action, here are a couple of videos I did with mine:

Restore Walk Thru

Gameplay (got to 2.4M on this one, personal best is 5.7M, 3-ball setting)

#2583 1 day ago
Quoted from slochar:

That's fine it corresponds to the LED flashing during the bootup tests.

The 3rd beep takes a longer time than the equivalent flash on a bally board because stern has a full byte on the 5101 pair instead of a nibble on the bally boards, so it's got more values to test in the ram than the bally does.

Superb. Thanks!

#2584 23 hours ago

Thanks, Mathazar, for these videos. They are indeed most helpful and give me more and clearer detail about Meteor 2021 than any of the other related videos I've seen. Especially after seeing these, I am considering buying the Arduino/2021 kit from pinside. However, my key limitation is that I know nothing about installing a speaker or amp in a pin and how difficult this task would be for me if I had the 2021 kit. I'm not interested in anything high-end--I'd be very happy with just a basic speaker that would be easy to work with, but I'm not even sure what to buy--much less how to hook up a speaker from scratch in a Meteor with this mod. Is there perhaps a thread or video that gives such detail? Any advice would be appreciated.

#2585 23 hours ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Thanks, Mathazar, for these videos. They are indeed most helpful and give me more and clearer detail about Meteor 2021 than any of the other related videos I've seen. Especially after seeing these, I am considering buying the Arduino/2021 kit from pinside. However, my key limitation is that I know nothing about installing a speaker or amp in a pin and how difficult this task would be for me if I had the 2021 kit. I'm not interested in anything high-end--I'd be very happy with just a basic speaker that would be easy to work with, but I'm not even sure what to buy--much less how to hook up a speaker from scratch in a Meteor with this mod. Is there perhaps a thread or video that gives such detail? Any advice would be appreciated.

This thread will be of interest to you - it was started by Dick Hamill (the guy who wrote the Meteor 2021 code and sells the complete Arduino kit) - lots of good info there:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-2021-new-code-for-stern-meteor-1979

In short:
- You can use a simple sound bar for a speaker. You wire it to amp.
- You do need an external amp as the WAV trigger board in the Arduino kit can't drive speakers....it's just a "line out". The amp can be as simple or complex as you want or need. You can retrofit it somewhere in the pin cabinet or it can be outside, doesn't matter. Here's a link to the amp I used....$30 on Amazon: amazon.com link »

#2586 23 hours ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

This thread will be of interest to you - it was started by Dick Hamill (the guy who wrote the Meteor 2021 code and sells the complete Arduino kit) - lots of good info there:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-2021-new-code-for-stern-meteor-1979

In short:
- You can use a simple sound bar for a speaker. You wire it to amp.
- You do need an external amp as the WAV trigger board in the Arduino kit can't drive speakers....it's just a "line out". The amp can be as simple or complex as you want or need. You can retrofit it somewhere in the pin cabinet or it can be outside, doesn't matter. Here's a link to the amp I used....$30 on Amazon: amazon.com link »

Great. I will study up. Thanks!

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