(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

By pinballholder

8 years ago


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  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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#2501 1 year ago
Quoted from izzy:

i"ve done all the "fixes" on the Meteor drop targets and they still are not always resetting properly. New targets, cleaned and adjusted the frame. Added a thin piece of plastic on reset bar, tightened the springs, the coil tabs are all at 90 degree angles to the plate. Not sure if I missed anything. Open to any suggestions. thx

Any chance you can post a video of the misbehavior?

#2502 1 year ago
Quoted from izzy:

i"ve done all the "fixes" on the Meteor drop targets and they still are not always resetting properly. New targets, cleaned and adjusted the frame. Added a thin piece of plastic on reset bar, tightened the springs, the coil tabs are all at 90 degree angles to the plate. Not sure if I missed anything.
Open to any suggestions. thx

Tombstones or hooded targets?

#2503 1 year ago

They are the hooded ones from PBR.

#2504 1 year ago

The PBR targets (at least from a couple years ago have not bought them since) bricked terribly. It's why I started using vintage targets cleaned up instead. I don't recall if I had reset issues.

Is it all of them not resetting or some of them fall?

It is possible to adjust each end of the reset stroke on stern games. But, if there is a divot on the rod, it will always tend to fall back into the divot that's there instead of allowing the adjustment. See if you can get the bar in a position where you're biting into new metal with significant distance to the old divot.

#2505 1 year ago

Rod has divots, I'll see if flipping it helps. Possibly look for a replacement.
thx

#2506 1 year ago
Quoted from izzy:

They are the hooded ones from PBR.

I am doing reproduction tombstone drops, first batch is pretty much allocated at this stage but will be doing more if there is interest
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-tombstone-drop-targets-13a-11-any-interest

here is one pinsider use of them in a meteor with Marco decals

Drop Targets - Meteor (resized).jpgDrop Targets - Meteor (resized).jpg
#2507 1 year ago
Quoted from izzy:

i"ve done all the "fixes" on the Meteor drop targets and they still are not always resetting properly. New targets, cleaned and adjusted the frame. Added a thin piece of plastic on reset bar, tightened the springs, the coil tabs are all at 90 degree angles to the plate. Not sure if I missed anything.
Open to any suggestions. thx

Keep adjusting the coil tabs. Took me a while but the drops play beautifully on my Meteor.

#2508 1 year ago
Quoted from Poida:

Keep adjusting the coil tabs. Took me a while but the drops play beautifully on my Meteor.

Sorry i don't know what coil tabs are.
thx

#2509 1 year ago
Quoted from izzy:

Sorry i don't know what coil tabs are.
thx

He is taking about the set screws on the little memory coils. Slight adjustments in the positioning of the coils makes a huge difference in the performance of the assembly. My assembly was taken apart and tumbled until all the parts looked shiny and new. When I reassembled the unit I positioned all the coil lugs straight up. Only half of them work during game play. I had to slightly offset each one that didn’t work by loosening the set screw and moving the coin a few degrees to the right or left. Now it works flawlessly.

#2510 1 year ago

Nice. Thx for the info.

2 weeks later
#2511 1 year ago

Can anyone tell me what bushing i need to use/order for my lower flipper bats?

#2512 1 year ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Can anyone tell me what bushing i need to use/order for my lower flipper bats?

If you have the original flipper plates: (flat to playfield)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4A-111-W-1

If you have the offset type 2 flipper plates:
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-nylon-flipper-bushing.html
Stern part #STN-4A111-W2

Pinball resource undoubtedly has them as well.

#2513 1 year ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Can anyone tell me what bushing i need to use/order for my lower flipper bats?

Don't forget that classic Stern games also use a brass washer between the bushing and flipper bat.

20220501_075110 (resized).jpg20220501_075110 (resized).jpg
#2514 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Don't forget that classic Stern games also use a brass washer between the bushing and flipper bat.

Some of the bushings have been coming longer so you don't need it in those cases.

I much prefer the offset type anyway since they don't tend to snap at the weak point and have updated most of my early games to use the later bracket style.

I would like to find a new source of the stepped plungers the older mechs used.

#2515 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Some of the bushings have been coming longer so you don't need it in those cases.
I much prefer the offset type anyway since they don't tend to snap at the weak point and have updated most of my early games to use the later bracket style.
I would like to find a new source of the stepped plungers the older mechs used.

What was the purpose of the stepped plunger? I don't have a diagram of the type 2 flipper assembly but it seems the A197 is the same part number for both style plungers.

I have some NOS base plates for the type 1 flippers but if I can't use the original plunger, what's the point? Would you use the old style plates or just the later ones? Is there any difference in game play between the two styles?

#2516 1 year ago

Can someone chime in how this coin door switch gets wired up in Meteor? I have the test switch sorted, it's the other one I need help with. Mine was mangled and the wires don't match my other classic Stern.

20220501_152050 (resized).jpg20220501_152050 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#2517 1 year ago

Drop target decals. Anyone here make them? I am thinking of switching the targets themselves out to black as part of my 2021 conversion. The stock decals probably won't look right. Would like a white lettering or maybe orange. Couldn't find anything in the threads for decal making when I searched. TIA.

#2518 1 year ago
Quoted from DJY2J:

Drop target decals. Anyone here make them? I am thinking of switching the targets themselves out to black as part of my 2021 conversion. The stock decals probably won't look right. Would like a white lettering or maybe orange. Couldn't find anything in the threads for decal making when I searched. TIA.

I started making the tombstone targets and in doing so researched the target decals available
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-tombstone-drop-targets-13a-11-any-interest/page/2#post-6894002
haven't seen coloured though would be cool

#2519 1 year ago
Quoted from DJY2J:Drop target decals. Anyone here make them? I am thinking of switching the targets themselves out to black as part of my 2021 conversion. The stock decals probably won't look right. Would like a white lettering or maybe orange. Couldn't find anything in the threads for decal making when I searched. TIA.

The font is "Yellow Submarine", I used 72 pt when I made mine. You should be able to download the font and make whatever color you want. I have a sheet of the drop letters and the spinner I could send you to pick colors on. I also have the TTF file for the font in case you can't find it online anymore.

Drop screen shot (resized).jpgDrop screen shot (resized).jpg
#2520 1 year ago

Good work sir. Thank you!

#2521 1 year ago

Has anyone upgraded their displays to a color other than orange? Looking at changing up colors and want to see pics of Meteor specifically that have different color displays. Looking at the ones from XPin but not sure anything looks better than Orange with this particular game.

#2522 1 year ago

Also can someone direct me to the correct leaf switches for the center drop targets? The manual isn't much help in finding a modern day part #.Thinking i need to replace a few as my bending of metal hasn't quite done what needs to be done to properly function. Thanks!

#2523 1 year ago
Quoted from DJY2J:

Also can someone direct me to the correct leaf switches for the center drop targets? The manual isn't much help in finding a modern day part #.Thinking i need to replace a few as my bending of metal hasn't quite done what needs to be done to properly function. Thanks!

Stern Drop Target leaf switches are Part #SW-471. These are equivelant:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASE-2911-17

#2524 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Stern Drop Target leaf switches are Part #SW-471. These are equivelant:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASE-2911-17

They are different you need the bended type unless you change the mounting to bottom mount switches.

#2525 1 year ago

Deleted....wrong post....

#2526 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

They are different you need the bended type unless you change the mounting to bottom mount switches.

That's what I get for working on a Black Knight restoration while answering a Meteor question.

#2528 1 year ago
Quoted from DJY2J:

Drop target decals. Anyone here make them? I am thinking of switching the targets themselves out to black as part of my 2021 conversion. The stock decals probably won't look right. Would like a white lettering or maybe orange. Couldn't find anything in the threads for decal making when I searched. TIA.

The yellow sub font I made for my spinner in black.
Using a cameo.

20211108_172455 (resized).jpg20211108_172455 (resized).jpg

#2529 1 year ago
Quoted from DJY2J:

Has anyone upgraded their displays to a color other than orange? Looking at changing up colors and want to see pics of Meteor specifically that have different color displays. Looking at the ones from XPin but not sure anything looks better than Orange with this particular game.

I like the white. You can also put colour gels over them to change them, but I have stuck with white.

Can get a better pic later if needed.

20220515_084810 (resized).jpg20220515_084810 (resized).jpg
#2530 1 year ago
Quoted from Poida:

I like the white. You can also put colour gels over them to change them, but I have stuck with white.
Can get a better pic later if needed.
[quoted image]

I just bought a set of wolffpac displays in red.

1 week later
#2531 1 year ago

A problem started occurring on my Meteor a couple of nights ago that I've not encountered before and I'm looking for some guidance.

I restored this machine 6 months / ~200 games ago and I haven't had the glass off, playfield up, or the backbox open since March till Thursday night when I noticed this behavior.

Meteor has 6 switches that will spot (drop) a drop target in the METEOR bank if the corresponding switch lamp is lit:

Upper Rollover Button
Middle Rollover Button
Lower Rollover Button
Stand-Up Target
Left Return Lane
Right Return Lane

The problem is with the Left Return Lane. When the SPOT TARGET light is off, the switch registers correctly and awards 500 points. When the SPOT TARGET light is on, the switch still registers 500 points and does NOT drop one of the METEOR drop targets. The Right Return Lane, along with all of the others besides the Left Return Lane, operate normally with the correct points (500 with the SPOT TARGET lamp off) and dropping a METEOR target if the lamp is lit (and awarding 2000 points).

Here's what's wrong: If the Right Return Lane SPOT TARGET lamp is lit, and the Left Return Lane SPOT TARGET lamp is NOT lit, and you roll over the Left Return Lane switch, a METEOR target will drop, the score awarded is 2000, and the right SPOT TARGET lamp turns off.

Here's a sort of Truth Table of the what's happening on my Meteor with the red indicating incorrect behavior:
Return Lane Truth Table (resized).jpgReturn Lane Truth Table (resized).jpg

So mechanically, everything seems to work so I'm not suspecting any wiring or connector issues. Which leaves some sort of logic problem. Not sure where to start?

The MPU is a one-year old Alltek, and I've tried clearing the memory. I do have the original MPU that has some reset issues I haven't fixed yet. It does boot once in a while all the way to attract mode, so I'm thinking of maybe trying that to see if the problem replicates. If it does replicate, then at least I know the issue isn't with the Alltek board.

Thanks in advance for any advice....

#2532 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

A problem started occurring on my Meteor a couple of nights ago that I've not encountered before and I'm looking for some guidance.
I restored this machine 6 months / ~200 games ago and I haven't had the glass off, playfield up, or the backbox open since March till Thursday night when I noticed this behavior.
Meteor has 6 switches that will spot (drop) a drop target in the METEOR bank if the corresponding switch lamp is lit:
Upper Rollover Button
Middle Rollover Button
Lower Rollover Button
Stand-Up Target
Left Return Lane
Right Return Lane
The problem is with the Left Return Lane. When the SPOT TARGET light is off, the switch registers correctly and awards 500 points. When the SPOT TARGET light is on, the switch still registers 500 points and does NOT drop one of the METEOR drop targets. The Right Return Lane, along with all of the others besides the Left Return Lane, operate normally with the correct points (500 with the SPOT TARGET lamp off) and dropping a METEOR target if the lamp is lit (and awarding 2000 points).
Here's what's wrong: If the Right Return Lane SPOT TARGET lamp is lit, and the Left Return Lane SPOT TARGET lamp is NOT lit, and you roll over the Left Return Lane switch, a METEOR target will drop, the score awarded is 2000, and the right SPOT TARGET lamp turns off.
Here's a sort of Truth Table of the what's happening on my Meteor with the red indicating incorrect behavior:
[quoted image]
So mechanically, everything seems to work so I'm not suspecting any wiring or connector issues. Which leaves some sort of logic problem. Not sure where to start?
The MPU is a one-year old Alltek, and I've tried clearing the memory. I do have the original MPU that has some reset issues I haven't fixed yet. It does boot once in a while all the way to attract mode, so I'm thinking of maybe trying that to see if the problem replicates. If it does replicate, then at least I know the issue isn't with the Alltek board.
Thanks in advance for any advice....

what was your playfield again - is it a hard top (much thicker), clearcoated ( a little thicker) - just wondering if your roll over button is affected height wise?

#2533 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

what was your playfield again - is it a hard top (much thicker), clearcoated ( a little thicker) - just wondering if your roll over button is affected height wise?

This playfield is a CPR Gold. I did have to trim away some excess clear around the rollover buttons during assembly, but that's fairly common with these CPRs. The rollovers are working fine electronically, and physically they don't bind up at all.

Just to be clear - the issue is with the rollover wire in the Left Return Lane.

#2534 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

This playfield is a CPR Gold. I did have to trim away some excess clear around the rollover buttons during assembly, but that's fairly common with these CPRs. The rollovers are working fine electronically, and physically they don't bind up at all.
Just to be clear - the issue is with the rollover wire in the Left Return Lane.

no worries, process of elimination + some frustration

#2535 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

The MPU is a one-year old Alltek, and I've tried clearing the memory. I do have the original MPU that has some reset issues I haven't fixed yet. It does boot once in a while all the way to attract mode, so I'm thinking of maybe trying that to see if the problem replicates. If it does replicate, then at least I know the issue isn't with the Alltek board.

Back to the drawing board....I popped in my original Meteor MPU and the same issue occurs, so it's not the Alltek. Too bad....all of the IC's on the Alltek are socketed, so it would've been an easier fix if I could've narrowed it down to a specific chip.

#2536 1 year ago

Did you re-pin the .100" connectors going to the MPU? If not check the pins in the housing for the switch matrix. Some of the pins can be brittle and I had several break on a Stern Flight 2000 causing weird switch issues.

#2537 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Did you re-pin the .100" connectors going to the MPU? If not check the pins in the housing for the switch matrix. Some of the pins can be brittle and I had several break on a Stern Flight 2000 causing weird switch issues.

Yep...when I did the restore, everything got re-pinned. I would take the trouble to repin J2 on the MPU again, but I can't get past one thing - the physical connections work. The LTL rollover wire scores 100% of the time, it's just the wrong scoring (500 vs 2000) when the SPOT TARGET light is lit, and a METEOR drop target isn't spotted when the SPOT TARGET is lit. And to add insult to injury, when the RTL SPOT TARGET light is lit, the LRL rollover wire scores 2000 and drops a target....when it shouldn't!

But I guess it's not a logic problem with the MPU since swapping it out does the same thing. I think I'm talking myself into re-pinning the J2 connector on the MPU again.

#2538 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Yep...when I did the restore, everything got re-pinned. I would take the trouble to repin J2 on the MPU again, but I can't get past one thing - the physical connections work. The LTL rollover wire scores 100% of the time, it's just the wrong scoring (500 vs 2000) when the SPOT TARGET light is lit, and a METEOR drop target isn't spotted when the SPOT TARGET is lit. And to add insult to injury, when the RTL SPOT TARGET light is lit, the LRL rollover wire scores 2000 and drops a target....when it shouldn't!
But I guess it's not a logic problem with the MPU since swapping it out does the same thing. I think I'm talking myself into re-pinning the J2 connector on the MPU again.

Do all the switches show the correct switch number in switch test.

#2539 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Do all the switches show the correct switch number in switch test.

Right on, slochar - can't believe I didn't run the switch test. LRL shows #36, which is incorrect. Should be #37. RRL correctly shows #36. All other switches also show correctly.

Now just need to find out why the LRL registers as 36 and not 37.

#2540 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Now just need to find out why the LRL registers as 36 and not 37.

Got it. Wires for both the LRL and RRL route back to the top left 3 drop target bank (middle and lower targets). I found a small screw lodged in that switch bank shorting the W-G I4 wire. I haven't found where the screw came from yet, but vibrations from the last 6 months of playing must've shook it loose from somewhere. I'll look more closely in the morning.

System is behaving correctly now. Thank you for switch test suggestion, @slochar!

#2541 1 year ago

I have an issue on my meteor. When i start the machine, the system boots, goes into attract mode and i get alternating 40 and 180 on the display. Has anyone seen this before?

#2542 1 year ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

I have an issue on my meteor. When i start the machine, the system boots, goes into attract mode and i get alternating 40 and 180 on the display. Has anyone seen this before?

bad MPU? original or repro? Any acid damage

#2543 1 year ago

Hey guys, I just joined the Meteor club. Picked up a project game with replacement boards, playfield, and backglass. Eager to add the 2021 code!

The one problem I'm having is ALL GI are out, both playfield and backbox. This is my first classic Stern, so I'm not really sure where to go from here.

I believe all the GI runs through the little rectifier board by the coinbox, but not sure how to go about troubleshooting from there.

#2544 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Hey guys, I just joined the Meteor club. Picked up a project game with replacement boards, playfield, and backglass. Eager to add the 2021 code!
The one problem I'm having is ALL GI are out, both playfield and backbox. This is my first classic Stern, so I'm not really sure where to go from here.
I believe all the GI runs through the little rectifier board by the coinbox, but not sure how to go about troubleshooting from there.

Start start with that rectifier board and the connectors going to it. Have any of the connector housings turned brown?

#2545 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Start start with that rectifier board and the connectors going to it. Have any of the connector housings turned brown?

No, the connectors look good.

#2546 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

bad MPU? original or repro? Any acid damage

Original mpu. Fully working for the yr that I have had it. Looks like there had been acid damage but was taken care of before i got it.

#2547 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

No, the connectors look good.

Check the fuse F5 on the rectifier board next. If that's bad, it should be replaced with a 20A fast blow fuse. If F5 is good, check TP4 on the rectifier and verify that you have about 7.3VAC.

#2548 1 year ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Original mpu. Fully working for the yr that I have had it. Looks like there had been acid damage but was taken care of before i got it.

The 40 and 180 on the displays -- are they on all the displays? Only one display? Is it consistent every time you power up the machine (always 40 & 180)? If it's consistent, first thing I would suspect would be the 5101s at U8 & U13. You might try clearing the 5101 using the self test.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-mpu-200-how-to-clear-5101-ram#post-5271521

#2549 1 year ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Original mpu. Fully working for the yr that I have had it. Looks like there had been acid damage but was taken care of before i got it.

if you have another one lying around, i would try to swap and test. See if you can confirm it comes from the MPU.

#2550 1 year ago

I’ll be streaming Meteor tonight with the 2021 update at 8 o’clock EST. I have the updated code running and I hope to see some of you guys there.
http://twitch.tv/slipstreampinball

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