Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979I have a problem and could use some help. The other day I came I to the room and the machine was making a never ending audible tone and all the numbers on the pin scores were blank. I turned it of and back on and it booted up fine. When I hit the start button the game started but the targets didn't reset and the ball didn't shoot out but the flippers work. The machine will register a score if you hit the ball on a bumper. Anybody have any idea??
Quoted from Pinbub:So to revisit CPR's latest playfield run.... I read a lot about the problems with the original playfield CPR did, the most obvious being the missing scores for the "Meteor" drop targets. I see they fixed that with the newest run of playfield. How much of the rest of the font, art etc issues were addressed?
I'm asking because I was "lucky" enough to buy the last of the first run playfields, back in December. I'm considering buying another one if enough of the issues were addressed. I have a second Meteor that could use a playfield but for the money, if the missing scores were the only thing fixed I'll probably just live with it.
I posted this side by side on my restoration thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-meteor-20201
You can see all the differences. I don't get too bent out of shape about slight font differences. The #3 drop target slot was too small for the tombstone style drops. I contacted CPR and they are going to widen it on future runs.
IMG_2064 (resized).JPGQuoted from DaveSpade73:I have a problem and could use some help. The other day I came I to the room and the machine was making a never ending audible tone and all the numbers on the pin scores were blank. I turned it of and back on and it booted up fine. When I hit the start button the game started but the targets didn't reset and the ball didn't shoot out but the flippers work. The machine will register a score if you hit the ball on a bumper. Anybody have any idea??
What have you checked so far?
Quoted from DaveSpade73:Nevermind. I see what it's for
If the fuse clips seem weak, replace the fuse holder. Loose clips can cause heat build up and pull extra current which can cause fuse to blow.
Quoted from DaveSpade73:Nevermind. I see what it's for
A bad coil diode can also make the PF coil fuse blow...
Quoted from DaveSpade73:Replacing that one fuse fixed everything.
It should. Its for all of the coils on pf except flippers. They do blow occasionally and I don't know why. Play a few games in a row and see if the fuse clips get warm.
Now the 2 flippers an the right are messed up and the fuse is blown again. Everything that didn't work last time still works. The flippers are trying to move. Also noticed that when I hot the flipper after I shoots out the ball I see a little spark from the shooter to the ball
Finally got the playfield swap going after having to send the playfield out to Neo to add the missing text water slides and letting it sit for a few months. Top side pretty much done.
Suck CPR didn't even make the holes for the t-nuts, we didn't notice till after the clear coating but all good after drilling all the holes.
I think the custom purple Rails from Reese Rails look great, once the plastics are on I think they will look better also.
20210611_133600 (resized).jpg20210611_135701 (resized).jpg20210611_135721_HDR (resized).jpgHey guys, I need some help with ordering switches. So far I've bought a lot of incorrect parts and it's getting old. I bought the parts manual off of eBay and that has helped some but a lot of the obsolete numbers don't supercede to new numbers.
What I'm dealing with now are the pop and dead bumper switches. I read I can use a Williams spoon if I enlarge the mounting holes. I'd like to replace the switch assembly as well. Is there any reason I can't use a complete Williams switch and spoon assembly? I also completely rebuilt flipper mechs but the rebuild kit came with single EOS switches. What do I need for the double EOS switch on the right lower flipper?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Finally got the playfield swap going after having to send the playfield out to Neo to add the missing text water slides and letting it sit for a few months. Top side pretty much done.
Suck CPR didn't even make the holes for the t-nuts, we didn't notice till after the clear coating but all good after drilling all the holes.
I think the custom purple Rails from Reese Rails look great, once the plastics are on I think they will look better also.
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Looking good. I almost went with the similar color purple for the rails when I made mine. In the end I did black because I like how they blend into the inside of the cabinet
0350B040-84C5-448C-894E-94050ED64216 (resized).jpegIs there a longer bushing required when using the Pinball Life Classic Stern flipper assembly?
https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html
My current one sits only slightly proud of the playfield surface and rubs slightly. I would think it should sit about 1/8" above the surface. I measured and it is 1 3/8”.
B93FDD15-FEE5-4EB8-981D-6543B5A2C334 (resized).jpegThere are two types of bushings for classic sterns. One for mechs that are flush with the playfield, one for mechs that are raised off the playfield. The only one that pinball life sells is the second, longer type which works with its type 2 assemblies. https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-nylon-flipper-bushing.html.
Quoted from zacaj:There are two types of bushings for classic sterns. One for mechs that are flush with the playfield, one for mechs that are raised off the playfield. The only one that pinball life sells is the second, longer type which works with its type 2 assemblies. https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-nylon-flipper-bushing.html.
I bought the full assemblies from pinball life with the base plate that is raised off the playfield I linked above, and that included the bushings. I'm wondering if the CPR playfield is thicker from the clear coat, or the Pinball Life baseplate is thicker, and now I need even longer bushings.
I did measure from the top of the mounting plate to the playfield is 12/32" (3/8"). Is this normal or should it be closer to 1/4"?
I just found out about these after another guy and I both posted about flipper dragging on other classic Sterns: https://www.pinballlife.com/nylon-flipper-shaft-spacer.html
Iirc, you can also get #14 brass washers from Home Depot or wherever.
Quoted from play_pinball:I just found out about these after another guy and I both posted about flipper dragging on other classic Sterns: https://www.pinballlife.com/nylon-flipper-shaft-spacer.html
Iirc, you can also get #14 brass washers from Home Depot or wherever.
Grabbed some #14 brass washers. Helps with the playfield clearance, but now the set screws don't quite grab the recess on the flipper shaft. Might get stuck someday. Oh well...
Quoted from bigguybbr:Grabbed some #14 brass washers. Helps with the playfield clearance, but now the set screws don't quite grab the recess on the flipper shaft. Might get stuck someday. Oh well...
the grooves are a problem if you do things that affect the flippers relation to the PF surface (overlays, hard tops, new pf, clearcoat etc) I just get rid of them and use these. the purist wont like it but it solves problems.
A3994-5 $5.10ea -See: http://www.pbresource.com/flippers.htm
Quoted from rcbrown316:the grooves are a problem if you do things that affect the flippers relation to the PF surface (overlays, hard tops, new pf, clearcoat etc) I just get rid of them and use these. the purist wont like it but it solves problems.
A3994-5 $5.10ea -See: http://www.pbresource.com/flippers.htm
Are the shafts longer than the classic stern ones Pinball Life sells or are they just missing the recess? I can’t tell by the picture.
Quoted from bigguybbr:Are the shafts longer than the classic stern ones Pinball Life sells or are they just missing the recess? I can’t tell by the picture.
Shafts are longer too. Gives way more flexibility to get the pawl into the best position. I'll take a picture tomorrow if you want.
Quoted from rcbrown316:the grooves are a problem if you do things that affect the flippers relation to the PF surface (overlays, hard tops, new pf, clearcoat etc) I just get rid of them and use these. the purist wont like it but it solves problems.
Fat end of the bat is slightly too fat is the main issue. Can cause flipper hop.
Quoted from slochar:Fat end of the bat is slightly too fat is the main issue. Can cause flipper hop.
Interesting. I haven't had that and I would definitely notice if I did. Maybe I got lucky but I have 7 sterns in the gameroom, all but one have these bats and all inlanes are like fresh bob sled tracks. I also have an Ali from Koji sitting in a box in my garage with your bell mod. I have not had a chance to open it up and set it up but I saw his video before I bought it. Very cool!
It's easy enough to fix you just bend the guide up a little if it's the wireform ones.
The plastic ones not so much.
I also use those, so I busted out the caliper and compared to an original they’re right about 1mm larger. Easy to bend a wireform, if even needed, but I haven't even had to adjust my F2K lane guides. The only game of mine with ball hop issues is Galaxy, and it has the original short-shaft bats on it.
My point about Galaxy is your mileage my vary. These games were hand-built by people 40 years ago. Tolerances will be different for each playfield.
Quoted from play_pinball:I also use those, so I busted out the caliper and compared to an original they’re right about 1mm larger. Easy to bend a wireform, if even needed, but I haven't even had to adjust my F2K lane guides. The only game of mine with ball hop issues is Galaxy, and it has the original short-shaft bats on it.
My point about Galaxy is your mileage my vary. These games were hand-built by people 40 years ago. Tolerances will be different for each playfield.
I just tuned up my galaxy and put these bats in it. I did run into a very slight issue with the flipper rummber rubbing on the lane guise but a simple loosend of the lane guide screws, repositioning of the lane guide and re-tightening of the screws solved the problem. it's hella fast. not as fast as meteor due to the lay out but i was pretty pleased with the difference after i rebuilt the pops and tuned up the slings. rocket shots down those inlanes.
20210613_215342 (resized).jpgOkay so I'm finally back here to fix this meteor for my friend and I want to verify that my connections are right. Looks like I have blue and orange flipped but I'm a bit confused where the incoming black wire should go. Can someone confirm this for me before I start soldering? Does the incoming black wire go to the tab on the switch that would intermittently touch with the orange wires from the coil?
PXL_20210618_162046291 (resized).jpgPXL_20210618_162106600 (resized).jpg
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Okay so I'm finally back here to fix this meteor for my friend and I want to verify that my connections are right. Looks like I have blue and orange flipped but I'm a bit confused where the incoming black wire should go. Can someone confirm this for me before I start soldering? Does the incoming black wire go to the tab on the switch that would intermittently touch with the orange wires from the coil?
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You might want a picture that shows the diodes to make sure they are going in the right direction. Here are some pics of mine before my playfield swap.
DD1D720D-AA5C-4FFA-A74F-A0AB6A209B3D (resized).jpegE13EC003-2DCA-447C-BE53-CB1ED13E5CFB (resized).jpegEF179EB8-3A46-4589-BE1C-76C16C9C3CDC (resized).jpegF1FAD455-58A7-4630-A068-EC118271BBA6 (resized).jpegQuoted from bigguybbr:You might want a picture that shows the diodes to make sure they are going in the right direction. Here are some pics of mine before my playfield swap.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yup, all good to go now! I thought I had him all sorted out but the goofy wiring in here had me questioning myself. Thanks for the pics!
PXL_20210618_184941275 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Yup, all good to go now! I thought I had him all sorted out but the goofy wiring in here had me questioning myself. Thanks for the pics!
[quoted image]
Awesome! Can’t wait till mine is playable
I missed playing my old Meteor. I'm glad my friend is finally able to put in some time on it. I still need to take his CPR gold playfield for touchup and clear. Obviously the swap isn't doing to happen right away but I want it to be an option for him whenever he wants to do it!
Joined the club this week with a decent project Meteor - good bones, but needs a lot of help. Got it flipping a game within an hour of unloading it from the truck and now I'm starting to tear it down to go through everything.
I started a resto thread here if anyone wants to follow: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1979-stern-meteor-project
IMG_9971 (resized).JPGQuoted from nocreditdot:Finally finished my meteor restore/playfield swap. It went from a wretch to a pretty nice example. Also did the 7 digit conversion.
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Looks awesome. I love the powder. Nice touch.
Quoted from Mathazar:Joined the club this week with a decent project Meteor - good bones, but needs a lot of help. Got it flipping a game within an hour of unloading it from the truck and now I'm starting to tear it down to go through everything.
I started a resto thread here if anyone wants to follow: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1979-stern-meteor-project[quoted image]
Not bad. Cabinet and playfield look nice from a distance. It’s a fun game to restore. I finished mine not too long ago and it’s going to be a permanent fixture in my game room. You’ll enjoy it.
6AEA9A7A-7991-4F53-B38C-55F769C07A46 (resized).jpegDEFA3721-5316-459C-BCA8-8804E3DED3CA (resized).jpegFFC1F080-2CF7-4B63-A4FB-8ADBEF7B4842 (resized).jpegQuoted from nocreditdot:Finally finished my meteor restore/playfield swap. It went from a wretch to a pretty nice example. Also did the 7 digit conversion.
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I like the speckled powder coating and the red plunger and beehive look great. Nice job
Thanks. There is also red and blue specs in the powder coat that really don’t show in the picture. This is the first powder coat game that I have restored. When I got the metal back I was worried that it might be to over the top. However once I installed it, I can’t imagine it any other way.
Mike
Quoted from bigguybbr:I like the speckled powder coating and the red plunger and beehive look great. Nice job
Quoted from nocreditdot:Finally finished my meteor restore/playfield swap. It went from a wretch to a pretty nice example. Also did the 7 digit conversion.
[quoted image]
Sa-weeeet! I bought Swinks coin drop bezels in red, now I gotta get the red beehive. I didn't start my resto yet but it's on the back burner.
Quoted from setzkor:For the flippers, you need both sets of numbers in the manual for the coils (one pair for each winding...in this case, I think the 34-4500 refers to the hold coil). The lower are J-25-500/34-4500, these are pretty common and available at Pinballlife etc. The top flipper coil is a J-25-600/34-4500 and is a little more difficult to source. When I redid mine, I left the original in place as it still worked. Also, many of these shipped with a 1 ohm 5W resistor in series with the top flipper coil, I replaced with a 1 ohm, 10W. Some may not have had it and you can adjust the EOS switch to lower the power on the top flipper if you think the plastics are in danger.
PBL has the 600 coils. I just got them for my seawitch a week ago. Also spot on with the resistor. my SW had a smorgasbord of wrong coils and the upper left flipper resistor was open so someone bypassed it and put a 500 coil up there to boot. The drop center bank drop targets were just dropping in fear. I moved the working resistor array from the upper right flipper over to the left and put the 600 coil in. Everything is good now.
Quoted from rcbrown316:PBL has the 600 coils. I just got them for my seawitch a week ago. Also spot on with the resistor. my SW had a smorgasbord of wrong coils and the upper left flipper resistor was open so someone bypassed it and put a 500 coil up there to boot. The drop center bank drop targets were just dropping in fear. I moved the working resistor array from the upper right flipper over to the left and put the 600 coil in. Everything is good now.
My seawitch has WMS flippers in it now, got it that way.
Quoted from Lovef2k:My seawitch has WMS flippers in it now, got it that way.
The assemblies or just the bats?
Quoted from rcbrown316:The assemblies or just the bats?
complete assemblies, all 4
Quoted from Lovef2k:complete assemblies, all 4
Interesting. Old style or wpc style?
I just put the 1 ohm 5 watt resistor on the upper flipper of my meteor. Makes a big difference especially with the CPR playfield that plays so much faster already.
Quoted from Lovef2k:complete assemblies, all 4
You have 4 flippers on your Meteor? 
Quoted from Charles_Kline:You have 4 flippers on your Meteor?
No.
Quoted from Charles_Kline:You have 4 flippers on your Meteor?
Haha no please read post 2141
Quoted from rcbrown316:Interesting. Old style or wpc style?
Not sure game is buried and I have not looked inside for years. Hopefully same as HS so I can use the parts.
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