(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

By pinballholder

8 years ago


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  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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#1951 3 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

I hate to ask, but will there be a version that will work for people who have installed 7-digit displays in their game?

Yes, in the file BSOS_Config.h, you'll see a line that says:

//#define BALLY_STERN_OS_USE_7_DIGIT_DISPLAYS

You just uncomment that line, like this:

#define BALLY_STERN_OS_USE_7_DIGIT_DISPLAYS

and the game will use 7 digits.
It will also (by default) scroll scores that are bigger than the displays can show. So even the 6-digit displays can show scores up to 999,999,999. That feature can be shut off if you prefer scores that roll.

#1952 3 years ago

!!!!!!

Incredible. You've given me a real boot in the arse to get this playfield swap completed. The new rules and animation look like an absolute riot. I'm so excited to try this!

#1953 3 years ago

So who can I pay to assemble the recode for me? I'm no good at that stuff but would definately pay to have someone put it together for me. If you're doing one and want to do two hit me up with a price.

#1954 3 years ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Anyone else have a red meteor in the upper playfield? A buddy of mine is restoring one and thinks it might either be a end of run variant or a prototype game.
[quoted image]

I just checked one of my Meteors and I have a red meteor as well. Unfortunately, it is the worst of my three playfields. I have the red meteor, an orange meteor, and a new CPR playfield. I will see if I can find a date on the machine with the red meteor.

#1955 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

So who can I pay to assemble the recode for me?

RoyGBev sells a kit for the PCB:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1304-roygbev-pinball/04736-arduino-nano-adapter-for-classic-bally-stern

I don't know of anyone selling assembled boards.

#1956 3 years ago

If I could pay someone to assemble one I'd be happy to.

#1957 3 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Oh my goodness! This is amazing! The last couple of years have been fantastic for Meteor, with a new software release running 7 digits on the original board and now your complete modern re-code!
I can't wait to give this a try. I hate to ask, but will there be a version that will work for people who have installed 7-digit displays in their game?

Yes, this ^^^! I was going to be upgrading to seven digit displays with the modded ROM but may hold off for a while. This Arduino coding looks freaking amazing! I needed an incentive to get going on my CPR playfield swap...and this it it!

#1958 3 years ago

How are you handling the sound? It mentions WAVtrigger but I didn't see any specific versions of that. It looks like there are a couple variations and would like to get the correct one to try.

Is that just installed parallel with the original sound board/speaker with a dedicated speaker for the WAV trigger? It seems that done like that you could easily switch between playing the completely original version and the new enhanced one easily.

Ordered all the parts (except the WAVtrigger) and can't wait to try this.

#1959 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

In the past year, I've been re-coding early SS games (Bally/Stern so far) to add new functionality to older machines. I'm wrapping up Meteor now. The machine can be dual-booted between the original code and the new.
This is a quick demo of some of the new rules/modes/sounds for Meteor. The project is documented here:
https://github.com/BallySternOS
The re-coding is done by plugging an Arduino into the J5 connector of the MPU (compatible with the original MPU-200 or an Alltek replacement). Instructions on how to build your own are on GitHub along with the code. You can dual-boot between old code and new, and the whole project can be built for less than $20.
When all the documentation is complete, I'll post the whole project to All Modding, but I wanted to show this group a demo of this mod first.

This is Amazing! Looks like a lot of fun. I'm looking forward to reading up on how to build one. I love build it yourself electronic kits.

Edit:
Is this board kit compatible with this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1304-roygbev-pinball/04736-arduino-nano-adapter-for-classic-bally-stern

RoyGBev mentions a jumper that selects original or Arduino, and you mention its selected by weather or no the Arduino is switched on. Just want to make sure.

Thank again for doing this.

#1960 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

How are you handling the sound? It mentions WAVtrigger but I didn't see any specific versions of that. It looks like there are a couple variations and would like to get the correct one to try.
Is that just installed parallel with the original sound board/speaker with a dedicated speaker for the WAV trigger? It seems that done like that you could easily switch between playing the completely original version and the new enhanced one easily.
Ordered all the parts (except the WAVtrigger) and can't wait to try this.

This is the Wav Trigger I'm using:
https://robertsonics.com/wav-trigger/
It's available from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SparkFun-WIG-13660-WAV-Trigger/dp/B0108LU05A/
Directly from sparkfun: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13660
and other places.

The Arduino board plugged into J5 mirrors the J5 connector up, so the SB-300 can still be plugged in. When the Arduino is not running, the SB-300 continues to work with the old code as before. When the Arduino is turned on, it takes over the bus, halts the M6800 and the SB-300 is never called. So, yes, when the Arduino is running I send the sound calls to the Wav Trigger and I play that through external speakers (so I can get stereo and frequency response).

There is a small wrinkle for this project, and I will be documenting it soon when I complete the docs for Meteor.
The SB-300 has two major sections to produce different types of sounds. One is selected with the A5 line and the other with A6. My board has access to A5, so it can pull that line low and disable that part of the SB-300. At this time, it doesn't have access to A6, so that line is floating. With A6 floating, you get some noise through the old speaker from the SB-300. Because of that, with my implementation, my Meteor switch is a DPST (double-pole, single throw). With one pole, I activate the Arduino. With the other pole, I disconnect the speaker.

Boot to old code, and the speaker is connected. Boot to Arduino, and I break the connection to the internal speaker. To make this mod non-destructive, I just pulled a speaker pin from the SB-300 J3 connector, routed it to my switch, and then ran a short jumper back to J3. So, removing my mod just requires one pin swap and you're done.

On the next version of my board (Hardware Rev 2), I will have access to A6 and this mod should be uncessary.
Sorry to clutter this thread with this big explanation. As soon as I have my documentation complete, I'll put all this over in All Modding.

#1961 3 years ago

Will look for the notes on the new version. Should be able to update/modify the old carrier boards. Thank you for the update and explanation!

#1962 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

Sorry to clutter this thread with this big explanation. As soon as I have my documentation complete, I'll put all this over in All Modding.

No need to apologize, please keep us updated here too. Looking forward to trying this out.

#1963 3 years ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

No need to apologize, please keep us updated here too. Looking forward to trying this out.

Thanks - I've posted a full release of the code (in All Modding) now:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-2021-new-code-for-stern-meteor-1979

#1964 3 years ago

So I've been fiberglassing/woodfilling my cabinet and head in my basement
workshop and was.able to get outside today and do some serious
sanding. Beautiful day.

Lo and behold look what appeared as I was sanding back of
cabinet. Pretty cool.

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#1965 3 years ago

Anybody have this plastic in decent shape? I was cleaning and flattening my plastics. Forgot this one was broken.
If u do let me know a shipped price. Thx.

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#1966 3 years ago

Stencil magic. Thx Cameo!!

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#1967 3 years ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Anybody have this plastic in decent shape? I was cleaning and flattening my plastics. Forgot this one was broken.
If u do let me know a shipped price. Thx.
[quoted image]

If that is known as "the one that always breaks" then Marco sells them separately

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13A-113-7

#1968 3 years ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

This might sound crazy but I'm gonna use
Minwax Polycrylic to clear my playfield. I used 2Pac
on a wing ding and it looked Good but almost too shiny.
I did 6 spray sessions (purple HF gun) 2 complete passes
Horizontal and vertical each session on my flash last spring with
the Minwax Polycrylic
and it turned out great. I've put over 500 games on it since
June and it looks fine. Just wanted to share.

Well I changed my mind and sprayed with
Spraymax 2k yesterday. One can. I did fill
the inserts about 6 weeks ago with the Polycrylic.

Gonna wait a few days sand level and respray with
one more can

20210318_164745.jpg20210318_164745.jpg20210318_164715.jpg20210318_164715.jpg
1 week later
#1969 3 years ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Well I changed my mind and sprayed with
Spraymax 2k yesterday. One can. I did fill
the inserts about 6 weeks ago with the Polycrylic.
Gonna wait a few days sand level and respray with
one more can[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good, it was definitely a better choice to go with the spray max. Once in a while you'll get a defective can and that will really "grind your gears" but all in all its a good product. That's how I started out a few years back before upgrading to a full clear coat set up.

#1970 3 years ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Well I changed my mind and sprayed with
Spraymax 2k yesterday. One can. I did fill
the inserts about 6 weeks ago with the Polycrylic.
Gonna wait a few days sand level and respray with
one more can[quoted image][quoted image]

And a word of advice from experience. Buy some new star rollover buttons. Most of them come with the negative print of the button part. Use that negative print to fill the insert before you clear coat. If you get any clear in the insert the button won't work properly and it will be a disaster to sand each groove.
20210326_063500 (resized).jpg20210326_063500 (resized).jpg

#1971 3 years ago

Here's the red accent meteor that I'm almost finished with. I sprayed the final coat of clear yesterday. Just a wet sand and buff left to do.

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#1972 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaymach1:

And a word of advice from experience. Buy some new star rollover buttons. Most of them come with the negative print of the button part. Use that negative print to fill the insert before you clear coat. If you get any clear in the insert the button won't work properly and it will be a disaster to sand each groove.
[quoted image]

Hey I've read a shit ton of threads on here for last 3 years.
Hahaha.

Good reminder though for anybody getting ready to do this.

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#1973 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaymach1:

And a word of advice from experience. Buy some new star rollover buttons. Most of them come with the negative print of the button part. Use that negative print to fill the insert before you clear coat. If you get any clear in the insert the button won't work properly and it will be a disaster to sand each groove.
[quoted image]

I have bought a few replacements and never received the negative print. I have seen them still in nos playfields though. I wish cpr used them when they put the clear on.

When putting clear down, do you pull the negative out before or after the clear dries?

#1974 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaymach1:

Here's the red accent meteor that I'm almost finished with. I sprayed the final coat of clear yesterday. Just a wet sand and buff left to do.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great! I really like the red meteor. Never noticed that until it was recently pointed out. Of my three playfields, my red meteor version is the most hammered. I wish I has the skills needed to touch it up and clear it.

#1975 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have bought a few replacements and never received the negative print. I have seen them still in nos playfields though. I wish cpr used them when they put the clear on.
When putting clear down, do you pull the negative out before or after the clear dries?

I pull the negative out before it dries completely. If it dries completely it would ld be an issue. I think the rollovers I have with the negatives still in are from pinball life.

#1976 3 years ago

does anyone make plastic protectors for meteor? I'm finishing up a restore and would like to keep the new plastic safe.

#1977 3 years ago

@nocreditdot
Playfield protectors from Beehive Pinball here: https://beehivepinball.bigcartel.com/product/pinball-playshield-protector
It doesn't seem like anyone is making plastics protectors, but on Meteor it's easy enough with those clear protector washers.

#1978 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaymach1:

Here's the red accent meteor that I'm almost finished with. I sprayed the final coat of clear yesterday. Just a wet sand and buff left to do.
[quoted image][quoted image]

IMHO, I really, really, *REALLY* like the added red highlight. I kind of wish you were able to get that scanned for record before assembling it. :I

#1979 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

IMHO, I really, really, *REALLY* like the added red highlight. I kind of wish you were able to get that scanned for record before assembling it. :I

I own a red Meteor variant as well. Planning to strip the pf next winter for a restore. I'll definitely scan and share for anyone interested.

#1980 3 years ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

I own a red Meteor variant as well. Planning to strip the pf next winter for a restore. I'll definitely scan and share for anyone interested.

I'll hold you to it. With the PF Mfr's no longer screening, I would love to see a repro of this version.

Maybe even including the METEOR 'score' values!

#1981 3 years ago

Thank-you all for all the great info!!

1 week later
#1982 2 years ago

Have been working on painting cabinet and clear
coating my playfield this week. Came up with a
pretty neat setup.

I was.gonna use the tent top and then hang
plastic sheet off of it but then I saw my giant
plastic roll sitting in garage and I got an idea

Worked really good. Just hope nobody looked twice
at an old fat dude rolling in and out with a gas mask and
goggles on.

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#1983 2 years ago

Add another Meteor to the resurrection list. I got a project machine from a buddy of mine, he nabbed it out of a warehouse. No idea when it last worked, probably sometime in the 80s from the look of the machine. The rectifier board was completely hacked and corroded so it was replaced with a rottendog board. I repinned all the connectors to that board with fresh housings. That improved things but the MPU still would not boot. Turns out there were several chips on the board with rusty legs and at least two legs broken off inside the sockets. Instead of paying for the original board to be repaired (with an unknown price tag), I opted for the Altek MPU board. Wow, I have to say I'm impressed with that product. It was shipped to my house in 3 days, set the dipswitches and Meteor is alive! I did have the wonky sound issue at first but resetting the game memory on the Altek fixed that. Overall, everything seems to be working ok, a few switch adjustments and some fresh rubber and we are good to go!

#1984 2 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

Add another Meteor to the resurrection list. I got a project machine from a buddy of mine, he nabbed it out of a warehouse. No idea when it last worked, probably sometime in the 80s from the look of the machine. The rectifier board was completely hacked and corroded so it was replaced with a rottendog board. I repinned all the connectors to that board with fresh housings. That improved things but the MPU still would not boot. Turns out there were several chips on the board with rusty legs and at least two legs broken off inside the sockets. Instead of paying for the original board to be repaired (with an unknown price tag), I opted for the Altek MPU board. Wow, I have to say I'm impressed with that product. It was shipped to my house in 3 days, set the dipswitches and Meteor is alive! I did have the wonky sound issue at first but resetting the game memory on the Altek fixed that. Overall, everything seems to be working ok, a few switch adjustments and some fresh rubber and we are good to go!

That's awesome. And not even any locked coils is amazing. I love bringing old games back to life.

#1985 2 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

Add another Meteor to the resurrection list. I got a project machine from a buddy of mine, he nabbed it out of a warehouse. No idea when it last worked, probably sometime in the 80s from the look of the machine. The rectifier board was completely hacked and corroded so it was replaced with a rottendog board. I repinned all the connectors to that board with fresh housings. That improved things but the MPU still would not boot. Turns out there were several chips on the board with rusty legs and at least two legs broken off inside the sockets. Instead of paying for the original board to be repaired (with an unknown price tag), I opted for the Altek MPU board. Wow, I have to say I'm impressed with that product. It was shipped to my house in 3 days, set the dipswitches and Meteor is alive! I did have the wonky sound issue at first but resetting the game memory on the Altek fixed that. Overall, everything seems to be working ok, a few switch adjustments and some fresh rubber and we are good to go!

Man, I'd love to stumble my way into a Meteor project. I miss the hell out of the one I sold. Such a great, simple game. Nice find, and nice work!

#1986 2 years ago

Anyone else have a meteor with displays wired like this?

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#1987 2 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Anyone else have a meteor with displays wired like this?

No mine are wired like normal, no ribbon cables.

#1988 2 years ago

I plan to open a Pinside shop for the sale of tech cards and labels for various games. Since these were just done I wanted to offer this to the club right away.

These are very accurate replicas of the Meteor tech cards and warning stickers with some enhancements. I had these printed on heavier stock than the original flimsy paper were. 3 of the cards are specific to Meteor and the rest are generic to Stern MPU-200 games. List includes:

Meteor Self Test Display Numbers (mounted in cabinet right side front)

MPU Switch Settings/ Meteor Switch Assignment (Back Box)

Series Switches and Positions (Back Box)

Grounding Boards Warning (Back Box)

Self Test (Back Box)

Ground Connection Label (Back Box)

Stern 16-B Transformer Wiring Connection Instructions (Cabinet Floor Behind Transformer)

QC Checklist(Under Playfield)

Fuse ID 1.25A Slo Blo Fuse (Under Playfield)

Fuse ID Chart (Rectifier Board Mounting Plate)

High Voltage Warning Sticker, QTY 6 (Score Display Trays and 1 for Rectifier Board Shield)

High Voltage Sticker (Solenoid Driver Safety Shield)

Self Test/Memory Clear (Coin Door)

18 Pieces total.

The price is $45 and postage is included for USA. International okay.

I also have complete sets for F2K, EBD, Xenon, Flash Gordon and Bally Star Trek. Seawitch coming soon.

P4170001 (resized).JPGP4170001 (resized).JPGP4170002 (resized).JPGP4170002 (resized).JPGP4170003 (resized).JPGP4170003 (resized).JPGP4170004 (resized).JPGP4170004 (resized).JPGP4170005 (resized).JPGP4170005 (resized).JPGP4170006 (resized).JPGP4170006 (resized).JPGP4170007 (resized).JPGP4170007 (resized).JPGP4170008 (resized).JPGP4170008 (resized).JPGP4170009 (resized).JPGP4170009 (resized).JPGP4170010 (resized).JPGP4170010 (resized).JPG
#1989 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I plan to open a Pinside shop for the sale of tech cards and labels for various games. Since these were just done I wanted to offer this to the club right away.
These are very accurate replicas of the Meteor tech cards and warning stickers with some enhancements. I had these printed on heavier stock than the original flimsy paper were. 3 of the cards are specific to Meteor and the rest are generic to Stern MPU-200 games. List includes:
Meteor Self Test Display Numbers (mounted in cabinet right side front)
MPU Switch Settings/ Meteor Switch Assignment (Back Box)
Series Switches and Positions (Back Box)
Grounding Boards Warning (Back Box)
Self Test (Back Box)
Ground Connection Label (Back Box)
Stern 16-B Transformer Wiring Connection Instructions (Cabinet Floor Behind Transformer)
QC Checklist(Under Playfield)
Fuse ID 1.25A Slo Blo Fuse (Under Playfield)
Fuse ID Chart (Rectifier Board Mounting Plate)
High Voltage Warning Sticker, QTY 6 (Score Display Trays and 1 for Rectifier Board Shield)
High Voltage Sticker (Solenoid Driver Safety Shield)
Self Test/Memory Clear (Coin Door)
18 Pieces total.
The price is $45 and postage is included for USA. International okay.
I also have complete sets for F2K, EBD, Xenon, Flash Gordon and Bally Star Trek. Seawitch coming soon. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Does your Meteor DIP chart take into slochar 's updated ROM? (I was going to do this for the DIp switch chart, as I wanted to have a copy with the new functions on it.. )

#1990 2 years ago

that's a cool idea, i'd defintely but some for fully restored project like QS, SG, Cheetah, Seawitch

#1991 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Nice! Does your Meteor DIP chart take into slochar 's updated ROM? (I was going to do this for the DIp switch chart, as I wanted to have a copy with the new functions on it.. )

No, just all original. I could make them if you supply the revisions. I'm not familiar with Scott's update but would like to know.

#1992 2 years ago

I've been wanting to watch this movie so I picked up the Laserdisc.

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#1993 2 years ago

Nice! I made a point to watch the movie before I sold mine. Gave the DVD to the new owner. It was...not good...but I got a new appreciation of why they have the horrid screeching sound effects in the game.

#1994 2 years ago

Can someone share right flipper wiring pics? I completely butchered my friend's somehow and it's now popping 5A fuses and frying coils. Ugh.

#1995 2 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Can someone share right flipper wiring pics? I completely butchered my friend's somehow and it's now popping 5A fuses and frying coils. Ugh.

Hope this helps.

CF04307D-2007-4F0F-840A-67520DF75F95 (resized).jpegCF04307D-2007-4F0F-840A-67520DF75F95 (resized).jpeg

#1996 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Hope this helps.
[quoted image]

Thanks!

Now I'm super confused though. I'm almost certain the double blue wires from the loom were hooked to an outer lug BEFORE I messed with anything, with the orange wire from the loom being on the opposite side (pretty sure I reversed them and caused a dead short, killing both coils). So, double blue on center lug... Not outer, opposite to the orange wire from there loom? And orange on the outer lug on the NON banded side of the diode?

#1997 2 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Thanks!
Now I'm super confused though. I'm almost certain the double blue wires from the loom were hooked to an outer lug BEFORE I messed with anything, with the orange wire from the loom being on the opposite side (pretty sure I reversed them and caused a dead short, killing both coils). So, double blue on center lug... Not outer, opposite to the orange wire from there loom? And orange on the outer lug on the NON banded side of the diode?

i thought it was weird when i look at the picture, the power to the flipper coil is always on the outside, the banded side of the diodes, middle one is the other side of the EOS, and the opposite is for the ground. The power is often the one with the double wire to take it to the other flipper.
While on a double stack sw for the upper flipper the ground also connect to the 2nd stack that close when the flipper is up, moving ground to the upper flipper

20210419_201350- (resized).jpg20210419_201350- (resized).jpg

#1998 2 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Can someone share right flipper wiring pics? I completely butchered my friend's somehow and it's now popping 5A fuses and frying coils. Ugh.

Photos of mine for comparison.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#1999 2 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Thanks!
Now I'm super confused though. I'm almost certain the double blue wires from the loom were hooked to an outer lug BEFORE I messed with anything, with the orange wire from the loom being on the opposite side (pretty sure I reversed them and caused a dead short, killing both coils). So, double blue on center lug... Not outer, opposite to the orange wire from there loom? And orange on the outer lug on the NON banded side of the diode?

The double blue is on the outer lug. It's just the angle of the picture. Sorry for the confusion.

#2000 2 years ago

Thanks for the clarification. I think we/I just reversed the orange and blue leads...twice...and smoked both of his coils. Doh. That's a $14 mistake (his original coil was getting HOT--I think some wires were arcing, so no real loss there tbh) I'll hopefully only make once.

The switches on his Meteor (my old Meteor) look absolutely hammered. Is there any option other than spending nearly $80 on a rebuild kit? I think he already bought the coil stops for all 3 flippers, so if I could just replace the plunger assemblies and maybe the switches that would probably be okay for now. I assume Williams switches would still be viewed as superior (per Vid), although I'll have to construct something to replicate the setup for the lower right flipper.

He bought a CPR gold playfield that we're having clearcoated and this will eventually get swapped..but not right away. I'm sure he'd rather go silly with all new *everything* when that happens rather than now, followed by that uncomfortable "do I do this again NOW..?" situation when the swap happens.

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Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
Cabinet parts
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
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