Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

Thanks! I can't wait to see your game completed. Also thanks for explaining your re-paint process.

Moving along little by little:

Laid down 2nd color on front of cabinet.

Krylon sun yellow gloss and Krylon golden glitter blast

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Back box lamp board - restored and re-populated with LEDs. One more thing off the to-do list.

Anyone have extra, "Danger High Voltage" stickers?

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Looking nice. I like the metallic accents gives it pop. For the high voltage, are you talking about the shields for the displays? Or the little red sticker on the SDB and rectifier board shields? I think the displays are available at pinball rebel and the other might be as well. If not I have a scan of mine and may even have some of my printout left with adhesive.

Show quality for sure

Just joined this past Satirday.

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You scored a nice one

Looks very nice

Stoked on this title. Put in my PBR order so will be shining it up.

Just curious,, what degree slope do you have your playfield angle set at?

I think 6 is the best I could get mine without putting it up on blocks.

Hey guys -
Come cabinet questions...

Were the legs stainless or grey-painted?
Anywhere to get new legs?
Will newer leg plates (mounted inside of cabinet, that bolts screw into) work in the cabinet?
Any place have new siderails?

-Mike

Mine are grey.

My originals are grey.

My new ones are powder coated black

All of the ones I saw were grey.

The legs used on these old Sterns, were they basically the same as the Bally games of the day? I'm going to eventually buy new legs for my Meteor as well but would like to get the right ones if possible.

Best place for replacement coin door parts?

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While waiting for paint to dry, time to tackle the rectifier board - will replace with a new PinHead board

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IMG_6155_(resized).JPGnice solder job

81k is big i can only get about 50k out of mine ...but its set for 1 point per rotation

What is a "PinHead" board?

I think the quality of this board along with the extra items that are provided in the "kit" are way above a rottendog replacement:

Rectifier Board and included accessory pack
Features:
Works with Stern TA 100 and Bally AS-2518-18, AS-2518-49 boards.
Plug and play replacement rectifier board.
LEDs are provided for each power supply voltage.
Heat sinks are provided for all three bridge rectifiers.
Top mounted heavy duty 35 amp bridge rectifiers for added reliability.
Through hole design for easier soldering and serviceability.
All PinHead Rectifier boards are professionally wave soldered using high quality ultrapure solder designed by Kester, the leading manufacturer for solder. This greatly improves the aesthetics and reliability of all solder joints.
High temperature 170tg FR-4 material is used along with extra thick copper and flooded ground plains, which helps reduce noise and dissipate heat.
High temperature polycarbonate fuse cover to protect you from high voltages.
Meets current ANSI/IPC-2221 specifications.
Includes an additional ground terminal, which provides an alternate path for the ground plain and relieves stress from the existing E8 ground connection.
Increased the resistance value of the power resistors to decrease operating tempature. Also increased the power rating of R2 from 10 watts to 15 watts.
Every board has clearly marked E connections on both sides of the board for easy installation.
Includes an accessory pack with all of the necessary parts for mounting the new board and rebuilding those old worn out and burnt connectors.
Includes all fuses.
Compatible with Future Spa, KISS and Space Invaders.

An accessory pack is included with each PinHead Electronics replacement Rectifier Board:

3 Molex keying plugs
4 PCB standoffs
9-pin Molex plug
10-pin Molex plug
20-pin Molex plug
40 Molex Trifurcon style contacts

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I purchased mine from John's Jukes Ltd. a couple months ago - $70

Can you be more specific? Coin mechanism? Credit button decal? Price plates?

The pricing plates and coin slot part missing from the pics I posted.

Did all these games have a Stern decal on the door?

After replacing the caps on the sound board I am still not getting much sound on the game (no sound when I rip the spinner, countdown on bonus will make no sound if I get a high bonus). What's the next step?

A lot of times the sound goes out or is erratic if there is a memory issue. Check the SRAM (or NVRAM), reseat if needed. I know I went through a few RAM chips when I needed to replace mine. Some of the replacements had little to no sound. Especially if the RAM is "slow" or mismatched speeds. Has the sound ever worked correctly?

Hey guys, I started a game in mine and strange things are happening... Everything was perfect, but now when the pop bumper is hit with the ball the knocker fires, and the drop targets on the left continually reset. Is there a particular chip I should replace on the mpu?

Not since I purchased it. I will check this out. Thanks

I had a similar problem with a seawitch, but mine had run away scoring as well. Turned out to be one of the PIA's.

Pricing plates can be found at Marco - they have several to choose from.

Coin entry plate for early stern (white plastic) - you might be SOL (both Marco and Action Pinball are out of stock)

Surprised nobody has made more - probably can be made from a 3D printer

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anyone replace their line filter, cable, and varistor? If so, any pictures will be helpful

Thanks in advance.

somebody I think in Australia was reproducing the plastic coin slots. I can't find the link now but they were pricey. CPR made the pricing plates and sold there stock to Marco. Try them as they are only a few bucks a piece. I have some spare coin slots if you need any. I have repainted some with Krylon Fusion paint and they turned out nice

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Was Meteor's door textured like that? Mine's stainless..

I bought one coin slot for my Nine Ball from this shop, in Sweden :
http://www.pin-games.se/parts/pinball/cdi/catalogue.htm

Mine was the same - hammered effect - same color that Lovef2k posted.

I recently sanded down my entire coin door and trim to bare metal (rust in multiple spots) and repainted - Rustoleum hammered effect but in black.

Wish I knew that you had extra coin slots when I ordered the instruction cards - am in need of 1.

Prior owner filed down the edges that protrude through the chrome bezel - reasons unknown.

I can send one to you. I think I saved your address. I think the ones I have are all painted white like the F2K photo.

I have never seen a stainless coin door on a stern. I know the early games like wild fyre and stampede had a grey painted door non-hammer tone, just smooth. Post a pick of it.

call pinball resource. i have bought a bunch of nos plates and slot plastics from him. he will tell you they are not perfect but they were better than what i had and certainly better than what you currently have

Has anyone had an issue with the repro drop targets not staying up? If so, anyone know a fix?

Having the same issue. I tried shortening the springs, they're a little better but still not good.

Try tweaking the tabs on the memory target release mechanism. Bend them as needed. Shortening the springs sounds like a good idea but that puts more tension on the target and might actually pull the target down.

Had the issue on my STARS and used a bastard file to grind down the stop to increase the stroke, work great now.

Okay, I was wrong. Apparently, it was textured grey. However, because of it's age and something some previous operator did, it's feels sanded smooth and done up in silver. I can feel the texture in the paint, but it's real light. I mistook it for stainless until I got close enough to study it.

I had that issue on my Stars also. I taped a piece of cardboard from a box to the metal bar that lifts the targets to increase how high they are lifted. Mines works great now as well.

Curious, how do your targets sit? Is the text cut off on the bottom, on the playfield?

Something a little different...

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Looking really good! I may steal that in years to come when I rebuild my cab..