New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,879 posts
  • 172 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by djd9617
  • Topic is favorited by 81 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

Topic Gallery

There have been 544 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20201125_172111 (resized).jpg
Meteor_Outhole_Switch.jpg
20201123_214445 (resized).jpg
20201123_214418 (resized).jpg
20201123_214357 (resized).jpg
20201123_214140 (resized).jpg
20201123_214024 (resized).jpg
20201123_213912 (resized).jpg
DSC_8916 (resized).JPG
E483DA8A-C92A-420C-A90A-C6759D0345D0 (resized).jpeg
rectum board (resized).jpg
62B09459-52EE-4895-8815-AEA53852CCC1 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
image (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 1879 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 38.
#1851 15 days ago
Quoted from Me-dee-or:

"Get a new, fresh rectum-fryer board".

"I'm telling you, It's a Butt Burner".

#1852 13 days ago

Besides waiting on a replacement transistor for the 3rd player display, Meteor is fully operational.

I did some rearranging in the game room to put Meteor and Firepower next to each other.
E483DA8A-C92A-420C-A90A-C6759D0345D0 (resized).jpeg

#1853 9 days ago

Quick help - can someone post a picture of the two ribbon cables running from the sound board to the MPU?

Mine are not plugged in properly (wrong pins) and I can't get the machine running correctly, I think that is the problem. Why the hell did they make more pins on the board(s) than the ribbon cables have???? It's driving me crazy.

So if I could get a shot of the ribbon cables showing the clear order of pins used on the sound board, and then a shot of the MPU showing the clear order of connect I would really appreciate it!

One more whole shot of the ribbon cables also, mine appear to "cross" ie: the J1 is on the first row on the sound board but connects to the second row on the MPU and the J2 is on the second row on the sound board but connects to the first row on the MPU.

-Nate

DSC_8916 (resized).JPG
#1854 9 days ago

Pins 33 and 34 are not used. I have seen 16 pin and 17 pin cables on these games. If you have the 16 pin ribbons, leave pins 33 and 34 open on the sound board. Same with the J5 on MPU if it has 34 pins. Make sure the ribbon connectors are matched to the numbers on the connector, pin 1 from sound board to pin 1 on J5 and so on. . Be sure there is no gap between the 2 ribbon connectors.

Also inspect the ribbon where it mates with the connector, if 1 wire breaks or dislodges, no workie. I'm pretty sure Weebly has replacements for these.

#1855 8 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Pins 33 and 34 are not used. I have seen 16 pin and 17 pin cables on these games. If you have the 16 pin ribbons, leave pins 33 and 34 open on the sound board. Same with the J5 on MPU if it has 34 pins. Make sure the ribbon connectors are matched to the numbers on the connector, pin 1 from sound board to pin 1 on J5 and so on. . Be sure there is no gap between the 2 ribbon connectors.
Also inspect the ribbon where it mates with the connector, if 1 wire breaks or dislodges, no workie. I'm pretty sure Weebly has replacements for these.

Thanks, I will get this into place and report back, it seems like this is making my game act up, I will inspect the wires, although they seem very hard to diagnose since they are very thin and coated with the plastic "ribbon". Urgh.

I do have 17 pin cables.

Nate

#1856 8 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Thanks, I will get this into place and report back, it seems like this is making my game act up, I will inspect the wires, although they seem very hard to diagnose since they are very thin and coated with the plastic "ribbon". Urgh.
I do have 17 pin cables.
Nate

Besides a visual inspection, if you have some new .100 header pin strips that you haven't used yet, place them into the connectors on each end and test with VOM. If your meter has a continuity test option with an audible sound, that would be the best, if not I suggest you buy the Fluke 117 for pin work.

#1857 7 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Besides a visual inspection, if you have some new .100 header pin strips that you haven't used yet, place them into the connectors on each end and test with VOM. If your meter has a continuity test option with an audible sound, that would be the best, if not I suggest you buy the Fluke 117 for pin work.

I don't have any of those .100 header pins, I do have a continuity setting on my meter. I'm very "green" to this stuff but doing my best to learn. Thank you again, I'm getting ready to reseat those ribbon cables.....

#1858 7 days ago

Got the ribbon cables installed correctly.

When I turn on game, it goes through the 7 chimes and all score displays are lit.

Pressing the start button causes the machine to go into a loop of constantly resetting, and I have no reaction in slings pops, etc.

Above link is a video, really appreciate any guidance, I'm ready to play!!

#1859 7 days ago

Check and see is trough/outsole switch is stuck closed.

#1860 7 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Got the ribbon cables installed correctly.
When I turn on game, it goes through the 7 chimes and all score displays are lit.
Pressing the start button causes the machine to go into a loop of constantly resetting, and I have no reaction in slings pops, etc.

Above link is a video, really appreciate any guidance, I'm ready to play!!

What lovef2k says.The game is seeing your outhole switch closed when there's no ball there. The game's software will serve the ball back to you if you literally get no points, and that's what's happening here.

#1861 7 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

really appreciate any guidance

On a side note, from factory these games came with the flipper bats resting against the two pins behind them. Your flippers are sitting quite high which will make it difficult to aim at the lower 1 and 3 targets. The flippers on this are not supposed to align straight with the return lanes like other manufacturers do.

Oh, +2 on what Lovef2k and Coyote said about the outhole switch being seen as stuck closed.

#1862 7 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

On a side note, from factory these games came with the flipper bats resting against the two pins behind them. Your flippers are sitting quite high which will make it difficult to aim at the lower 1 and 3 targets. The flippers on this are not supposed to align straight with the return lanes like other manufacturers do.
Oh, +2 on what Lovef2k and Coyote said about the outhole switch being seen as stuck closed.

Thanks so much Coyote and Lovef2k and Quench!

I have looked at that switch, and it must be broken, it appears working but obviously is not registering. I will order a new one. Is there a substitute that I should know about - I know some parts are hard to obtain if relying on the Stern original parts and numbers......?.....................

Is that switch being unresponsive also related to not having any power at any solenoids?

Quench - thanks for the flipper hint! This is my first early Stern so I had no idea the placement was different - I would definitely be an un-happy flipper not being able to make those shots!!

Appreciate all the help, you guys are great.

Nate

#1863 7 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Is that switch being unresponsive also related to not having any power at any solenoids?

Most likely yes, the game is too busy trying to deal with the "stuck" outhole switch.

Can you post some clear pictures of that outhole switch from a side on view and also how it's been connected?

#1864 7 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

working but obviously is not registering

It is stuck closed, so while a new switch wouldn't hurt, likely it may not be needed - I would check the switch contacts, make sure they're open and not touching, and then work towards the wire of the switch, and make sure there's no shorts (with no ball in the outhole). ..Depending on how expnsive a new switch is, this could save you some time and money.

#1865 7 days ago

Care to post a pic of your new and correctly installed sound ribbons Pinball_Nate ?

#1866 6 days ago

Ok, damn. I looked at the switch tonight and made sure the contacts were not touching when the ball was not sitting on it. I also re-soldered the wires and checked for any damage. The machine is still going nuts. Here are some photos. Also, I had a WTF!! moment trying to deal with the diagnostic tests Man, I can't keep track of the number appearing on the score display and the "sound" of the solenoid to keep track of anything that wasn't firing?!?!

And the switch test didn't seem to be doing anything........I will post photos of the ribbon cable placement for ss-pinball, and the switch stack.

Video of the test modes may have to wait until tomorrow.

I appreciate you guys helping me - so frustrating to be so close!!

20201123_213912 (resized).jpg20201123_214024 (resized).jpg20201123_214140 (resized).jpg20201123_214357 (resized).jpg20201123_214418 (resized).jpg20201123_214445 (resized).jpg
#1867 6 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Man, I can't keep track of the number appearing on the score display and the "sound" of the solenoid to keep track of anything that wasn't firing?!?!

If you're only pressing the self test switch inside the coin door once, you're running the factory burn in test mode that doesn't do switch tests.
To get to switch test mode, you need to press the self test button 5 times. With all the drop targets raised and the ball removed from the game, the ball in play/match display should show a '0'. Press any switch and its ID number then shows in the player displays.

Can you post a clear picture showing where the brown wire is soldered? I can't quite see which blade it's soldered to.

BTW, you need to put the switch wireform above the upper blade:

Meteor_Outhole_Switch.jpg

#1868 6 days ago

Good eye quench!

#1869 6 days ago

Thanks, that brown wire is soldered to the lowest of the 3 tabs. I tried to get a clear shot a few times of that.

Quench, thanks for the leaf switch catch, I'll adjust that.

I appreciate your help with the diagnosis. Just for fun here is me in the video, to be sure, I had a confused look on my face!!

You can see where it looks to be cycling through the correct steps, pf lights all lit, etc.

I'll go back tonight and try the switch diagnostic again.

Excuse the score displays, I'll fiddle with those later......I guess one digit out could be the molex connector??

Thank you again, I'm trying my best!

#1870 6 days ago

--- 1st self test button press starts factory burn in test (lamps flash, solenoids activate in order and displays are all tested simultaneously)

--- 2nd self test button press moves to lamp test mode (all feature lamps flash)

--- 3rd self test button press moves to display test mode

--- 4th self test button press moves to solenoid test mode (they are activated one after the other with respect to the solenoid ID chart in the manual)

--- 5th self test button press moves to switch test mode

--- 6th self test button press onwards goes through score threshold awards and book-keeping audits.

Once you reach switch test mode in your video, it's reporting switch '01' as closed which referring to the switch ID chart in the manual is the coin chute #3 switch (right most coin slot switch). Closely inspect that coin switch and do a continuity test on it to see if it's reading closed.
Alternatively, start a game and then disconnect the J3 connector (cabinet/coin door switch harness) from the MPU board. Does the game still continue to reset the ball in play? If yes, do continuity tests on the the three lugs on the outhole switch. No combinations of the meter leads on those three lugs should give any continuity with the ball removed.

#1871 6 days ago

I'm gonna go a different direction...what is going on with your METEOR drop bank? To me, it looks as though the "drop" coil is locked on for the "R" which keeps it stuck in a loop trying to reset that bank which could keep the game from initializing properly. If it were simply a mechanical issue that cause the "R" to drop, the game would just think you hit the "R", give you points and leave the drop down. Yours keeps resetting it (which means it would resets the whole bank) which is very odd. Can you temporarily unhook the small coil for that "R" Drop to see if it would then stay up?

Another option is with game off, manually lift the plunger on the big coil to raise all targets. Does the target then stay up?

#1872 6 days ago
Quoted from setzkor:

To me, it looks as though the "drop" coil is locked on for the "R" which keeps it stuck in a loop trying to reset that bank which could keep the game from initializing properly. If it were simply a mechanical issue that cause the "R" to drop, the game would just think you hit the "R",

Unless the switch is ALSO stuck closed, either on purpose because the previous owner/op couldn't fix the drop target, or there's gneeral switch matrix issues, which would explain the outhole switch looking correct while the game still thinks it's closed.

Now I'm rather curious on switch test results!

#1873 5 days ago

pinball_nate are those special flashing effect bulbs in your backbox?

#1874 5 days ago
Quoted from djd9617:

pinball_nate are those special flashing effect bulbs in your backbox?

#455 lamp, get a box.

#1875 4 days ago

so, in the process of reassembling my meteor... any ody know where this piece goes??

20201125_172111 (resized).jpg
#1876 4 days ago
Quoted from djd9617:

so, in the process of reassembling my meteor... any ody know where this piece goes??
[quoted image]

Shooter lane guide. It goes on the pf side rail (wood piece)

#1877 4 days ago
Quoted from djd9617:

pinball_nate are those special flashing effect bulbs in your backbox?

I used a few of the Comet Fire/Flame LED's and put one under each rocket exhaust. Pretty cool effect.

#1878 4 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Shooter lane guide. It goes on the pf side rail (wood piece)

Aha! Thank you. I guess I would have realized that if I had kept going haha. Currently waiting on roughly $300 worth of stuff from comet to arrive before finishing assembly though. There are so many freaking lights in this backbox.

#1879 4 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I used a few of the Comet Fire/Flame LED's and put one under each rocket exhaust. Pretty cool effect.

Nice. I i tend to sprinkle a few around the backglass and pf too. Comet has fire post lights that im going to use on the surface behind the spinner, where the explosion is on the PF. Also putting a fire in the pop bumper.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 7.00
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
From: $ 140.00
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
$ 149.00
$ 100.00
Playfield - Protection
Beehive Pinball Co.
There are 1879 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 38.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside