(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

5 years ago



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  • 1,926 posts
  • 178 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by lowbeau67
  • Topic is favorited by 83 Pinsiders

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  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 1926 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 39.
#1651 6 months ago

I was wondering how many Meteors had chimes and how many had digital sound? I've seen/heard both types, but was wondering how many of each version were made? A google search turned up nothing. And I'm wondering how common each version was.

#1652 6 months ago

Shoot, am I thinking of Stars?! Damn, I feel silly now.

#1653 6 months ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

I was wondering how many Meteors had chimes and how many had digital sound? I've seen/heard both types, but was wondering how many of each version were made? A google search turned up nothing. And I'm wondering how common each version was.

Quoted from DakotaMike:

Shoot, am I thinking of Stars?! Damn, I feel silly now.

Easy answer all the Meteors have digital sound and all the Stars have chimes

Someone may have upgraded Stars with the Wico sound board in the 70s. Memory Lane was the last Stern game with Chimes and Lectronamo was the first with the sb-100.

#1654 6 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I suppose it's possible that this was intended to be installed in a non-recharging setup (IE with blocking diode installed) and would probably be fine like that. Or just go remote battery (plus diode).
Of the board sets mentioned in that ad, I have to imagine few of them had rechargeable nicads in them to deal with?

I doubt it. There's no sense putting an expensive lithium rechargeable in with a blocking diode. At that point, just put in a remote pack with some duracells in.

I think this is a case of someone not knowing the difference between rechargeable battery technologies and just selling anything that fits. It's a hack, and it's not a good one.

#1655 6 months ago

On my Meteor I installed three Comet Flame/Fire LEDs behind the rocket/missile flames for the backglass. Attached is a picture where they were installed. I think it has a nice effect.

meteor-fire (resized).jpg
#1656 6 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

I doubt it. There's no sense putting an expensive lithium rechargeable in with a blocking diode. At that point, just put in a remote pack with some duracells in.
I think this is a case of someone not knowing the difference between rechargeable battery technologies and just selling anything that fits. It's a hack, and it's not a good one.

Yeah, makes sense. Well, I'll get something better in place before I send this down the road.

4 weeks later
#1657 5 months ago

Does anyone have a link for a power supply rebuild kit? I can't seem to find one anywhere.

#1658 5 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Does anyone have a link for a power supply rebuild kit? I can't seem to find one anywhere.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

2 weeks later
#1659 4 months ago

i got a meteor about a year ago, and it had some major swirl marks, so i broke it down, sanded the old clear, and some paint of, touched up the paint, swapped some inserts, and today im clear coating it! I also bought a repro pf from CPR, however due to the errors with their print, i decided to try my hand at restoring the original, and seeing which one turns out better

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I also moved the hole for the kirk post to the *actual* center, between the flippers. Not sure if it was intentionally designed to be offest, but it was a good 1/8" off. I swapped the rocket inserts from a "color vomit" theme to all orange star inserts, the bonus inserts to opaque blue, spot meteor inserts to orange star, collect rockets to blue star, and shoot again to a red star. I prefer these colors far more than the originals. I had to DLP 3D print the 7/8" inserts because they dont seem to exist anywhere else at the moment. Still have some work to do, but nearly done. This has been quite the learning experience.

#1660 4 months ago

First time I saw a ad in the middle of a thread???

#1661 4 months ago
Quoted from djd9617:

I also moved the hole for the kirk post to the *actual* center, between the flippers. Not sure if it was intentionally designed to be offest, but it was a good 1/8" off.

It's supposed to be dead nuts center between the flipper bats, regardless of how far off the artwork is. The artwork is off on most of them, and I wouldn't be surprised that the post wasn't accurately installed either, because of bad dimpling at the factory, drill slipped, etc.

I was going to ask what happened to the inserts but I see you covered that.

#1662 4 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

It's supposed to be dead nuts center between the flipper bats, regardless of how far off the artwork is.

Was just gonna post the same.

Measure the distance from the flipper holes to the center post mark, should be equal.

#1663 4 months ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Was just gonna post the same.
Measure the distance from the flipper holes to the center post mark, should be equal.

That's what I ended up doing. Filled the old hole with bamboo skewer, drilled a new one, covered it with paint. Interestingly enough, my CPR repro is even further off center than my original. Not sure if I want to mess with that one though. If my original turns out nice, I may just sell my repro.

1 week later
#1664 4 months ago

Need some help, I refurbished my Meteor, have brand new power board, light board, and CPU, re-pinned the plugs running to the little power board beneath the pf and replaced that board also.

When I turn on the machine, I only get the GI lights coming on, there is no attract mode and no power to flippers, etc. I have a glow on the score displays, but not enough juice getting to them to fire up the digits......... I already checked the voltages to the small power board and they are all ok.

I am thinking I have the ribbon cables somehow mis-aligned, for some really dumb reason, there are more pins than there are spaces for pins on the ribbon cable ends?!?!?! Can someone look at my photos and tell me how the hell these cables are supposed to be plugged into the two boards?

Are there any other specific plugs/pins that I should examine that might be damaged and not feeding the right power? I inspected ALL the pins in the plugs and they seem tight and not broken, loose, etc.

Thanks, after getting this rough pin and really great shape, I want to finally play the damn thing! So frustrating......

Ribbon_Cable_1 (resized).jpgPower_Board_Ribbon_Placement (resized).jpg
#1665 4 months ago

start from the right side of the mpu and go left not skipping any pins. Do the same on the sound board.

There is a reset line in there that will prevent the board from booting if the cable is wrong

#1666 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

start from the right side of the mpu and go left not skipping any pins. Do the same on the sound board.
There is a reset line in there that will prevent the board from booting if the cable is wrong

Cheddar is right:
Your connection at J5 (the red board) is wrong. There should not be a pin left blank in the middle. Shift the connector on the left over one set of pins.

#1667 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

start from the right side of the mpu and go left not skipping any pins. Do the same on the sound board.
There is a reset line in there that will prevent the board from booting if the cable is wrong

Thanks, let me try that and I'll get back to you guys. Incredibly busy lately.

#1668 4 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Cheddar is right:
Your connection at J5 (the red board) is wrong. There should not be a pin left blank in the middle. Shift the connector on the left over one set of pins.

Thanks, I'll check it out and report back.

#1669 4 months ago

Price check: I have a Meteor playfield...good condition. Drops are there, all of the posts are there, rails and guides there...spinner is missing. only the upper left corner plastic is there. the dead bumpers are gone (but I have some others) and the "live" bumper is gone above the playfield...everything is present below the playfield. Flippers are there.
No real wear. There is some slight cupping but not enough to materially impact gameplay.

If you were going to unexpectedly sell this, what's fair?

#1670 4 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Price check: I have a Meteor playfield...good condition. Drops are there, all of the posts are there, rails and guides there...spinner is missing. only the upper left corner plastic is there. the dead bumpers are gone (but I have some others) and the "live" bumper is gone above the playfield...everything is present below the playfield. Flippers are there.
No real wear. There is some slight cupping but not enough to materially impact gameplay.
If you were going to unexpectedly sell this, what's fair?

Depends heavily on just how good the condition is. Considering you can buy a CPR repro (with printing defect) for $700, I'd sell an original for somewhere between $400 to $700. If the condition is decent to great. Can you post a couple pics here?

To elaborate, thats how much i personally would pay for it, depending on the condition of it. Whether the market agrees, idk.

#1671 4 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Price check: I have a Meteor playfield...good condition. Drops are there, all of the posts are there, rails and guides there...spinner is missing. only the upper left corner plastic is there. the dead bumpers are gone (but I have some others) and the "live" bumper is gone above the playfield...everything is present below the playfield. Flippers are there.
No real wear. There is some slight cupping but not enough to materially impact gameplay.
If you were going to unexpectedly sell this, what's fair?

the spinner missing is a tough one, not always easy to find the right stern replacement...

#1672 4 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

the spinner missing is a tough one, not always easy to find the right stern replacement...

My Meteor actually has a Silverball Mania spinner on it....which leads me to believe that Classic Bally and Classic Sterns may share more than just a board set. Anyway, I was able to look on the Silverball Mania machine page here on Pinside and get some detailed pics of the spinner. (My Meteor is at my other house and the Meteor pics do not have the correct angle to determine the exact linkage type used).

Anyway, from looking at those pics I was able to find what I think might be a compatible spinner, assembly and link for $9.95 shipped on ebay. A little acetone, maybe a scrape with a razor blade and the new spinner will be ready for a couple of stickers. The link was of a slightly different style--probably older. Instead of a single loop around the spinner arm, it has several loops (and resembles a spring) and therefore probably doesn't need those fat spacers. For $10 it was worth the risk.

#1673 4 months ago

PBR sells some old stock Brunswick spinners cheap that should be compatible.

Note that 'compatible' isn't the same as correct, even with a decal. Stern spinners of this era seem to be lighter than others, so you often aren't going to get the same spins.

#1674 4 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

PBR sells some old stock Brunswick spinners cheap that should be compatible.
Note that 'compatible' isn't the same as correct, even with a decal. Stern spinners of this era seem to be lighter than others, so you often aren't going to get the same spins.

OK, that was something that I hadn't considered.
Luckily I have a PBR order coming up.
Thanks for the tip, zacaj

#1675 4 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

PBR sells some old stock Brunswick spinners cheap that should be compatible.

Note that 'compatible' isn't the same as correct, even with a decal. Stern spinners of this era seem to be lighter than others, so you often aren't going to get the same spins.

I agree, they are cross compatible but i remember seeing a side by side comparison showing slight difference. I should actually pull one out from each type of machine and size/weight them

#1676 4 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

My Meteor actually has a Silverball Mania spinner on it....which leads me to believe that Classic Bally and Classic Sterns may share more than just a board set. Anyway, I was able to look on the Silverball Mania machine page here on Pinside and get some detailed pics of the spinner. (My Meteor is at my other house and the Meteor pics do not have the correct angle to determine the exact linkage type used).
Anyway, from looking at those pics I was able to find what I think might be a compatible spinner, assembly and link for $9.95 shipped on ebay. A little acetone, maybe a scrape with a razor blade and the new spinner will be ready for a couple of stickers. The link was of a slightly different style--probably older. Instead of a single loop around the spinner arm, it has several loops (and resembles a spring) and therefore probably doesn't need those fat spacers. For $10 it was worth the risk.

The spinners are similar but the Bally spinner has a thicker wire stem that runs through the center on the spinner. Therefore you need to swap it over with the Bally mount (hood) with it or enlarge the holes on the Stern.

#1677 4 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I agree, they are cross compatible but i remember seeing a side by side comparison showing slight difference. I should actually pull one out from each type of machine and size/weight them

I'd be very interested to hear about the results from that inquiry hisokajp

#1678 4 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

My Meteor actually has a Silverball Mania spinner on it....which leads me to believe that Classic Bally and Classic Sterns may share more than just a board set.

Most operators robbed parts off of one pin to get another one working again. Also a collector could have done the same thing. A seriously doubt Stern was using Bally parts on the production line.*

*except when they reverse engineered the Bally boards, were sued by Bally, and settled out of court.

#1679 4 months ago

Honest question: would Stern have been pedantic about having all of the spinners weigh the same in 1979? Isn't it possible that they outsourced manufacturing of the part and the large run of Meteors have variances in this part?

I mean, I understand that a heavier spinner will have a different number of revolutions when hit and that would have an impact on scoring...but...given the nature of pinball manufacturing...does is matter?
I mean, if you have a tournament and Meteor is the game...everyone is playing on the same table...

Sure your scores from one table to the next "might not accurately reflect your true skill level" but the tuning and general condition of the machine would differ from table to table and that fact would impact scoring as well...

Curious about your thoughts...

#1680 4 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Honest question: would Stern have been pedantic about having all of the spinners weigh the same in 1979? Isn't it possible that they outsourced manufacturing of the part and the large run of Meteors have variances in this part?
I mean, I understand that a heavier spinner will have a different number of revolutions when hit and that would have an impact on scoring...but...given the nature of pinball manufacturing...does is matter?
I mean, if you have a tournament and Meteor is the game...everyone is playing on the same table...
Sure your scores from one table to the next "might not accurately reflect your true skill level" but the tuning and general condition of the machine would differ from table to table and that fact would impact scoring as well...
Curious about your thoughts...

I doubt they'd notice, but I also assume their spinners are lighter because they were like "hey, can we save 10c per spinner if you make them hollow?" or something

Quoted from hisokajp:

I agree, they are cross compatible but i remember seeing a side by side comparison showing slight difference. I should actually pull one out from each type of machine and size/weight them

I also would love to see a breakdown. I've got a few gottlieb spinners that look identical (silver checkerboard pattern) but are from different years, and seem to be different thicknesses. Also curious how the weight actually effects the spin count, although that's probably harder to measure

#1681 4 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I doubt they'd notice, but I also assume their spinners are lighter because they were like "hey, can we save 10c per spinner if you make them hollow?" or something

I also would love to see a breakdown. I've got a few gottlieb spinners that look identical (silver checkerboard pattern) but are from different years, and seem to be different thicknesses. Also curious how the weight actually effects the spin count, although that's probably harder to measure

The cost savings issue is real...just ask anyone about modern Stern coil stops...

#1682 4 months ago

I saw someone post about finding this the other day and ngl, I'm pretty damn jealous.

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#1683 4 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I saw someone post about finding this the other day and ngl, I'm pretty damn jealous.
[quoted image]

Holy fuck no way, I want it.

#1684 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Holy fuck no way, I want it.

Get in line lolol

I'm sure it'll get posted at full flipper $800000000 price.

#1685 4 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Get in line lolol
I'm sure it'll get posted at full flipper $800000000 price.

$1bil my Xmas?

#1686 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

$1bil my Xmas?

I'm hoping I can get a couple billion dollar bills for the ms pac man and centipede cabaret arcade cabinets that I took on trade, then I can buy another pin. Maybe even a prototype meteor. Lol

#1687 4 months ago

I joined the club today. Got a machine that has sat in a basement for the past 10 yrs. GI comes on but that is it. Gotta drill the lock to get into the backbox, but I suspect battery damage since they were never changed. I think I am gonna have to do a full restore And looking forward to trying it for my first time.

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#1688 4 months ago

coin door and cabinet look good, PF have seen a good life. I think you right in writing off the MPU but you never know!

#1689 4 months ago

I'm elbows deep in doing a full restore on my meteor. Pretty fun. Feel free to send me questions. CPR has a repro playfield. If you wanna restore the original, know that 7/8" inserts don't exist anymore. I can DLP 3D print some for you though.

#1690 4 months ago

Would love to see your boards.
You may find that whatever damage may be there could be easily addressed.
Or the battery may not have leaked or is off the board.

Nice find.

#1691 4 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Would love to see your boards.
You may find that whatever damage may be there could be easily addressed.
Or the battery may not have leaked or is off the board.
Nice find.

I’m going to drill the lock tonight, so we will see. I’ll post here.

#1692 4 months ago

I wish you a good journey. These things are fun! I got mine more or less the same way, but that one had some desperate last days of operation, eeesh..

Rock that upper cabinet back and forth a little before you remove it. You will see where you need to glue it and clamp it back together again.

#1693 4 months ago

Both locks drilled. Man those barrel locks are a booger. GI on and the board Led came on for a second and then went out. Reseated the connectors and it stays on. Took some pics of the board. Luckily, in my quick overview I didn’t see any batteries anywhere. So who knows.

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#1694 4 months ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

Both locks drilled. Man those barrel locks are a booger. GI on and the board Led came on for a second and then went out. Reseated the connectors and it stays on. Took some pics of the board. Luckily, in my quick overview I didn’t see any batteries anywhere. So who knows.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The battery is the white tube on the bottom of the mpu200 board. It’s a rechargeable battery that will eventually leak. You should cut it off and add an nvram.

#1695 4 months ago

the MPU looks good from here, cut the battery off and you should be good to go, lucky!

#1696 4 months ago

Lol yeah I completely missed the single battery. Displays don’t come on, just a couple orange dots. And no solenoids fire nor will a game start. There’s issues somewhere, just gotta find them. Might be easier once I get it unloaded and can check fuses, etc

#1697 4 months ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

Lol yeah I completely missed the single battery. Displays don’t come on, just a couple orange dots. And no solenoids fire nor will a game start. There’s issues somewhere, just gotta find them. Might be easier once I get it unloaded and can check fuses, etc

I think I see battery corrosion on the U8 RAM chip. Pay attention to the red LED on the MPU board when you power up. Its activity will help indicate any MPU board issues.

#1698 4 months ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

Lol yeah I completely missed the single battery. Displays don’t come on, just a couple orange dots. And no solenoids fire nor will a game start. There’s issues somewhere, just gotta find them. Might be easier once I get it unloaded and can check fuses, etc

the one thing I always do is replace the rectifier board and repin its connectors. Some $ and time but always save future headaches

#1699 4 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

I think I see battery corrosion on the U8 RAM chip. Pay attention to the red LED on the MPU board when you power up. Its activity will help indicate any MPU board issues.

Looking a little closer,. There definitely some corrosion starting on the ground trace and around C13 & U8. Should be fairly easy to neutralize and fix.

#1700 4 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

the one thing I always do is replace the rectifier board and repin its connectors. Some $ and time but always save future headaches

Probably the best use of $50 for any Bally/Stern of this era. I almost always replace the rectifier even if the original looks to be in good condition.

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