(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,592 posts
  • 150 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Chosen_S
  • Topic is favorited by 77 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

Topic Gallery

There have been 402 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

DD85FA61-8E32-4B06-99A4-4C8A938720AD (resized).jpeg
47CF6502-49E1-4FF7-944A-7C2DE765FE7F (resized).jpeg
CDD20BC9-75E6-4A3D-AE04-B28FFCE7C0F7 (resized).jpeg
20200527_141841 (resized).jpg
20200527_141831 (resized).jpg
20200527_141750 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200517_084311 (resized).jpg
received_437434480456811 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20200501_080227 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200501_075131 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200429_175148 (resized).jpg
18189756872932978874 (resized).JPG
20200323_205404 (resized).jpg
20200323_181831 (resized).jpg
FCBEB689-4AAE-45E1-B7A7-A20DEE7E0324 (resized).jpeg
31250714-926E-4A77-A529-281700718459 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 1592 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 32.
#1551 54 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Can you you post a picture on your Alltek MPU and a close up that shows what ROM version is in it? I have an Alltek in mine and it works ok. Plan on pulling it out and switching back to an MPU-200
Maybe you have an older ROM on your Alltek that just needs an upgrade.

31250714-926E-4A77-A529-281700718459 (resized).jpegFCBEB689-4AAE-45E1-B7A7-A20DEE7E0324 (resized).jpeg
#1552 54 days ago

I’ll see if I can get a picture of mine to compare tomorrow.

#1553 54 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

You likely replaced a working amp. The spinner sound cutting out is a known rom issue. There is a fixed rom that Stern released. You may have damaged a trace. Recheck your work and see if the traces go where they should. Maybe put the old amp back in.

Stern's ROM fix addresses the endless bonus countdown not the spinner sound screwup that happens with some nvram/corrupted ram. This is likely the version on the alltek board.

#1554 53 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Stern's ROM fix addresses the endless bonus countdown not the spinner sound screwup that happens with some nvram/corrupted ram. This is likely the version on the alltek board.

Can I swap out the ram on the alltek board to see if that fixes it? This game sat in the west Texas heat in an insulated shop for 3 or 4 years I think, I wouldn’t be surprised if things went bad during that time

Which chip is the ram on the alltek?

#1555 53 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Can I swap out the ram on the alltek board to see if that fixes it? This game sat in the west Texas heat in an insulated shop for 3 or 4 years I think, I wouldn’t be surprised if things went bad during that time
Which chip is the ram on the alltek?

It's the little surface mount chip near the bottom dipswitch bank. Have you used the Alltek in another game? If so, do the ram clear procedure to clear the nvram data from previous uses.

#1556 53 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

It's the little surface mount chip near the bottom dipswitch bank. Have you used the Alltek in another game? If so, do the ram clear procedure to clear the nvram data from previous uses.

The alltek has only been used in this machine, but I will clear then nvram again

#1557 53 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

The alltek has only been used in this machine, but I will clear then nvram again

NVram cleared , sounds working now.
Good lesson to learn, always treat alltek boards as if they are new and need to be memory cleared and jumpers checked.
Much appreciated everyone!

#1558 51 days ago

I have a line on a project Meteor...the guy says it'll probably need new boards...

What is the story with Classic Stern boards? (my pins have been early Williams and I've just sent them to Eugene for bulletproofing)

I know that there is a light board that is needed to keep LEDs from strobing or ghosting.
I would assume that the power supply would be easy to recap.

What the are ups and downs of the various other boards out there?
(Also NVRAM...I've had Eugene put NVRAM on my boards...I assume it (or something else comparable is available).
Also, I'm aware of "new ROMs" for some "good, old GOOD pins, like, say Firepower. Are there new and improved ROMs for Meteor?

#1559 51 days ago

Classic Stern boards are identical to the Bally of the same era, 77 to 84. I'd say the weakest link of the Sterns is the rectifier(power supply) board. They used very small bridge rectifiers that were mounted to a thin heat sink mounting plate. Almost every one I see has been rebuilt and/or hacked to death. The main fix was to add larger rectifiers that were reverse mounted and have larger heat sink fins mounted on them. This board is very similar to the Bally rectifier board but has less heat sink area.

The best reproduction available is the weebly replacement board. Reasonable pricing. Available fully assembled or DIY.

The next weakest link is the connectors to said board. Those usually have burnt pins and/or connectors. Using Trifurcon connectors on the heavy wires help very much.

The MPU's are very similar. Bally is the -17 and -35, Stern has the MPU-100 and 200. Stern MPU's have a different clock speed compared to Bally. Reproduction MPU's have a jumper setting for this. Meteor will be a 200, if not swapped with a Alltek or weebly by now. Weak point of original boards are header pins and U8 and U13, the 5101 RAM chips. As with most MPU's or CPU's, battery corrosion can be an issue from leaky batteries.

Lamp driver and solenoid drivers are interchangeable without modification. It helps if all mods have been done to the solenoid driver.

Sterns have their own version of sound and speech boards. Weak link to sound are the ribbon cables from J5 MPU to the sound board. Sound board should be re-capped by now.

The lamp driver can be changed to a Alltek Lamp/LED driver board for adding LED's. There are also cheaper alternatives where you add flicker eliminators to the connectors at the lamp driver board. Meteor is tricky when it comes to LEDs. Read prvevious posts in this thread for more info.

Weebly has built in NVRAM and also NVRAM available for MPU-200

https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

#1560 50 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I have a line on a project Meteor...the guy says it'll probably need new boards...
What is the story with Classic Stern boards? (my pins have been early Williams and I've just sent them to Eugene for bulletproofing)
I know that there is a light board that is needed to keep LEDs from strobing or ghosting.
I would assume that the power supply would be easy to recap.
What the are ups and downs of the various other boards out there?
(Also NVRAM...I've had Eugene put NVRAM on my boards...I assume it (or something else comparable is available).
Also, I'm aware of "new ROMs" for some "good, old GOOD pins, like, say Firepower. Are there new and improved ROMs for Meteor?

If the MPU doesn't have much ACID damage then I would rebuild it. There was a weird issue with the original Meteor code that didn't play nice with NVRAM but I believe the updated code slochar has done fixes that. You can run it on the original board or the Weebly. If you get an Alltek MPU your stuck with the original code.

I really like the original Bally/Stern driver boards and have rebuilt a bunch. There are some updates to add a few jumpers on the back of the board but they are solid once gone through. I often have to replace the .100" headers as well as the main 5V cap.

If you are going to replace any boards then it will probably be the rectifier board as previously mentioned. Those tend to be fried and there are several good replacement boards out there.

Attached is a picture of an MPU-200 that I recently repaired. It was damaged by prior repair work. Someone had pulled up a trace and severed a couple others. The final repair is shown too. It also had a bad 5101 and 6821 chip. Have a few others in the queue but those had battery damage and more traces to rebuild.

20200323_181831 (resized).jpg20200323_205404 (resized).jpg
#1561 50 days ago

what’s the recommendation on settings for gameplay, I’m ready to get the game setup to start challenging myself

#1562 50 days ago

Thanks very much guys. I hope to be joining the club after this quarantine.

#1563 50 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Thanks very much guys. I hope to be joining the club after this quarantine.

If you like drop targets you'll enjoy it. The game really grows on you. It's a keeper machine for me! If you have any issues with the boards I can help. I've rebuilt and updated a bunch and can verify them in the machine. I also have some shields for the coin door that fixes the issues with the LED's shinning up between the lockdown bar and playfield.

2 weeks later
#1564 31 days ago

Finally put a bit of time into mine, at least to swap out the disgusting old (and mismatched) rubbers.

Still need to tackle SCRs and I'd like to swap that nasty middle bonus lamp area with the wedge board... Probably should order that I guess.

Really I should just buy an entire new plastic set but my perimeter plastics aren't terrible. Seems Marco sells slings (mine are okay) and that piece between the upper flipper and the stand up target (mine is garbage) but out of sheer morbid curiosity does anyone have an old discarded plastic (IE one you replaced with a new set) above the METEOR bank? It can have scratches, that's fine, but mine snapped and I had to glue it.

IMG_20200501_075131 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200501_080227 (resized).jpg

I really need to pull my board, like, months ago.. To remove and replace that old on-board nicad. It's lost charge a handful of times since I've owned this (although more often than not works perfectly), but I've got a lithium replacement to drop in.

Last question, but is there anything special about the shooter rod or its spring? The rod on mine is actually pitted badly enough that chunks of the plating are gone. Somehow it still functions okay, but it certainly leaves something to be desired.

Anyway, long post finishing up, here's the progress from as-picked to now.

18189756872932978874 (resized).JPGIMG_20200429_175148 (resized).jpg

#1565 31 days ago

Why the heck are your rollovers green and yellow?

#1566 31 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Why the heck are your rollovers green and yellow?

No idea. She's a bit of a weird bird.

#1567 27 days ago

I had Reese Rails make me a set of rails to match the Pink/purple in the game. I think they will look great. Going to start my playfield swap in the next few weeks.

received_437434480456811 (resized).jpeg
#1568 27 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

I had Reese Rails make me a set of rails to match the Pink/purple in the game. I think they will look great. Going to start my playfield swap in the next few weeks.
[quoted image]

I was going to talk to Reese about making a set - but I was thinking of going dark, almost midnight blue.

Be sure to grab a pick of these once installed!

#1569 27 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I was going to talk to Reese about making a set - but I was thinking of going dark, almost midnight blue.
Be sure to grab a pick of these once installed!

I was between blue and purple also. Blue would look good. These are more on the pink side, he showed me this and purple side by side. I think it's going to pop.

1 week later
#1570 20 days ago

Does anyone know the proper p/n for the shooter rod and spring? I'm about to place an order with Marco and it'd really be nice to throw that in as well. I don't think it's the same one as all the Williams machines (because of the beehive piece).. Right?

#1571 19 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Does anyone know the proper p/n for the shooter rod and spring? I'm about to place an order with Marco and it'd really be nice to throw that in as well. I don't think it's the same one as all the Williams machines (because of the beehive piece).. Right?

Which spring? Long one inside cab or short outside cab?

#1572 19 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Which spring? Long one inside cab or short outside cab?

Both, I guess? Whatever wear parts I should replace along with the rod. I can't seem to find anywhere, including the manual (unless I'm blind which is certainly possible) that breaks it down.

I assume the outer spring is pretty standard, and the inner spring may also be. Really the rod is the biggest question mark for me. Mine is roached.

#1573 19 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yup, no issue here.
Note that because of Meteor's light timing, it's possible that the first handful of bulbs (on Meteor, it's the 1st Rocket Bonus) may still strobe without an extra resistor to bring current up even more..)

Hi.
thanks for this tip! ? My meteor is doing exactly this with the rocket 1 row, Alltek board, all types of leds. Any tips on resistor size and mounting please..?
Thankyou!

#1574 19 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hi.
thanks for this tip! ? My meteor is doing exactly this with the rocket 1 row, Alltek board, all types of leds. Any tips on resistor size and mounting please..?
Thankyou!

I used 220 ohm, 1/4w, and just soldered it to the light socket.

#1575 19 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Both, I guess? Whatever wear parts I should replace along with the rod. I can't seem to find anywhere, including the manual (unless I'm blind which is certainly possible) that breaks it down.
I assume the outer spring is pretty standard, and the inner spring may also be. Really the rod is the biggest question mark for me. Mine is roached.

I have a stern parts book somewhere. at work now so access at this time. The inner spring is a softer one. They usually have color on them for the strength of the spring. I'm not sure how they work though. I would call Marco. They are always eager to help on the phone. I will look for part numbers after work.

#1576 19 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I used 220 ohm, 1/4w, and just soldered it to the light socket.

Great thanks, solder accross terminals or in series with led??

#1577 19 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Great thanks, solder accross terminals or in series with led??

Yeah, terminal to terminal - in parallel with the bulb.

#1578 15 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Both, I guess? Whatever wear parts I should replace along with the rod. I can't seem to find anywhere, including the manual (unless I'm blind which is certainly possible) that breaks it down.
I assume the outer spring is pretty standard, and the inner spring may also be. Really the rod is the biggest question mark for me. Mine is roached.

Sorry for the slow response. Dug out the parts cat. tonight finally. The inside spring is 5A-137, outer 5A-136. The inner spring is basically sold by the strength you prefer for your game. Most early solid state games need a super stiff spring. I would go for the medium light for Meteor. Marco suggests the #10-149 outer spring for F2k, they don't show any for Meteor but I would think it would be the same since they share the same assembly. Marco carries a red beehive shooter housing which I think would look cool on Meteor.

#1579 15 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Sorry for the slow response. Dug out the parts cat. tonight finally. The inside spring is 5A-137, outer 5A-136. The inner spring is basically sold by the strength you prefer for your game. Most early solid state games need a super stiff spring. I would go for the medium light for Meteor. Marco suggests the #10-149 outer spring for F2k, they don't show any for Meteor but I would think it would be the same since they share the same assembly. Marco carries a red beehive shooter housing which I think would look cool on Meteor.

Any info on the rod itself?

Thanks a bunch for digging that out and looking through it for me!

#1580 15 days ago

Rid is NLA. I don't remember off-hand the numb3r, but I spent all winter searching for a replacement. Even Steve at PBR didn't have any. Recommended the black, plastic knobbed standard one as a replacement.

#1581 15 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Rid is NLA. I don't remember off-hand the numb3r, but I spent all winter searching for a replacement. Even Steve at PBR didn't have any. Recommended the black, plastic knobbed standard one as a replacement.

That was what Marco finally settled on also, when he was surprised to not be able to come up with anything.

Crazy.

#1582 15 days ago

A good friend of mine sent me these to replace the busted ones I had. Can't wait to install them!

IMG_20200517_084311 (resized).jpg
#1583 15 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

A good friend of mine sent me these to replace the busted ones I had. Can't wait to install them!
[quoted image]

Nice the upper near the spinner is usually always broken.

#1584 15 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Any info on the rod itself?
Thanks a bunch for digging that out and looking through it for me!

Yes, the rod is A-315. I usually just fix them up with chrome and if the end is peened over, just file it down. You can also buff the knob (no pun intended ) to get the shine back.

1 week later
#1585 4 days ago

Few pics with the Reese Rails on

20200527_141750 (resized).jpg20200527_141831 (resized).jpg20200527_141841 (resized).jpg
#1586 1 day ago

Hoping someone can help me troubleshoot an out hole kicker issue on my Meteor. The kicker coil doesn't activate when the out hole switch is pressed. All other solenoids fire just fine and cycle endlessly as long as the drain switch is closed. Voltage coming across at the wires but circuit stays open when the coil should be activating so it makes me think it is a board issue. I get continuity from the pin on the board to the wire at the coil. I just replaced all pins and headers on my solenoid board hoping to get rid of this issue but no luck. Beyond that I don't know much about board troubleshooting. Where do I go next?

#1587 1 day ago

If you have no power at the coil that indicates a break in the power chain under the playfield. There should be two wires on the power terminal of each coil except the last coil in the chain. Check all of the coils and see if one of the power wires broke off.

#1588 1 day ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

If you have no power at the coil that indicates a break in the power chain under the playfield. There should be two wires on the power terminal of each coil except the last coil in the chain. Check all of the coils and see if one of the power wires broke off.

Sorry - bad write up on my part. I have voltage at the coil - but the circuit doesn't close when the coil is supposed to activate.

#1589 9 hours ago

Try the grounding the transistor trick to see if the wires are connected as they should be. Cold solder and connector problems are prevalent in these as well.

#1590 9 hours ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Try the grounding the transistor trick to see if the wires are connected as they should be. Cold solder and connector problems are prevalent in these as well.

Not familiar with this. Just jumper the ground leg of the transistor to see if the ball kicks out?

#1591 8 hours ago

You can very quickly ground the tab of the associated transistor and it'll fire the coil if all is good with the wiring.

#1592 4 hours ago

Hey guys, I got a leave the club. I’m curious what you guys would think my meteor should go for?

I touched up the playfield and professionally clear coated it, new parts where needed. Decent backglass, alltek mpu. New rectifier board

Many thanks

CDD20BC9-75E6-4A3D-AE04-B28FFCE7C0F7 (resized).jpeg

DD85FA61-8E32-4B06-99A4-4C8A938720AD (resized).jpeg47CF6502-49E1-4FF7-944A-7C2DE765FE7F (resized).jpeg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 157.00
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 7.00
$ 25.00
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Rochester, NY
There are 1592 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 32.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside