Interesting, I hadn't caught that. Will need to look it up, now..!

The playfield in my Meteor is original and the 7 digit displays are the Uno displays by pinitech. I’m running a new MPU that has the 7 digit code built in.

I’m not doing a swap on this game. Hope to find a beater in the next year to put it in or I’ll pass the playfield on to someone that needs it.

The playfield in my Meteor is original and the 7 digit displays are the Uno displays by pinitech. I’m running a new MPU that has the 7 digit code built in.

I’m not doing a swap on this game. Hope to find a beater in the next year to put it in or I’ll pass the playfield on to someone that needs it.

New Meteor rails just got finished up.

57E922E3-0D03-4615-9108-01C544731483 (resized).jpeg

Does anyone have a list of the full arsenal of parts needed for a re-pin/re-header on Meteor? I've gotten by reflowing solder here and there as needed but the time has come to do all of them. Figured if someone has a list already done it will save me a little time getting an order together.

My PF is on its way. I may order a set of blues from you for my Meteor soon. Whenever you open back up. I think the blue would look sweet.

You can find them here : http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/bally_kits.htm#b-mpuconnector
They have separate kits for each board.

Dang Mike! You weren't the first one on the list lol...

I know, I know.

Though I did technical sign up twice, when it was under 'Boutique', and then under 'Preorder'. It's possible they saw the double sign up and bumped me down.

At the moment, expected delivery is Thursday because the box has been sitting in Indianapolis for the last three days.

A group order here in Australia had 3 playfields delivered to one address. One of each grade, Gold, Silver & Bronze. Can you identify which playfield is which from the photos below? 20200203_165408 (resized).jpg20200203_165727 (resized).jpg20200203_172741 (resized).jpg

That's good stuff! I got a gold and it's pretty much flawless.

Middle playfield is Bronze? Artwork missing along the right edge.

That should be hidden after the wood rails are installed.

My Guess

Middle one would be Bronze from the missing art and the shooter lane grain color.

Top one Gold

Last one Silver again for shooter lane grain.

Give that man a cigar!

anyone have an idea how much extra weight is needed for the repro drop targets? My new ones look nice but dont fall all the way down consistently and I see people have added weights..
thanks

I have repro targets, and never needed weight. Are you using the right springs?

I just got mine, and looked closely at it. I hate to say it, but it's not "mirrored", it is "metallic silver". Comparing side-by-side, you can see the difference.

Check, perhaps, your switches - if they are too tight, they can stop the fall of the target. If the target (when not all the way down) is resting on the switch's activator, try loosening them (the switches) up some.

Still awaiting my email from CPR for a playfield. Has anyone else gotten an email lately? I put my name on the list last March.

As I am waiting for parts I am trying to get all the lights working. In areas such as the photo , if the bulb is good and I am getting voltage to all three lamps, should I assume that socket is bad?
Only one of the three is lit.

7DAA0E9C-938D-41B9-BC14-7C687BD1FD79 (resized).jpeg

I got my email about 2 weeks ago and paid asap. I put myself on the list a couple years ago when it was way down on the boutique list.

Well a nice surprise when I got home today.

20200207_205111_HDR (resized).jpg

20200207_205137 (resized).jpg

To find out if it’s the socket or the SCR, clip a wire to the cabinet braid and touch the tab on the lamp where the colored wire attaches. If it lights you have a bad SCR, or bad connection between the socket and lamp driver board.

Same timing for my name on the list. Just rec'd their email yesterday, cheers!

Is it just me or is it missing a bunch of score values below the meteor drop targets?

Go read and catch up on the thread you you yourself started.

No joy here at all. I swapped a few leaf switchesd around the and the problem has stayed with the "O". Very weird. If the "O" is the first target to be hit, it works fine. But if it's not the first, it will not sense being dropped.

Yep it sure is. Saw a post about it yesterday and saw it on mine. It sucks! not sure what can be done about it either.

Oh. Oh noooooooooo. Oh no oh no oh no.... nooooo.... that's not good at all.

Makes me glad I snagged a NOS field off of here a couple of years back. It's still waiting to be swapped in this summer.

You're telling me. My original PF isn't recoverable, due to previous operators/owners spilling some oil onto the field, and soaking in. I'm stuck with this repro now, and.. hope to at least make it as best as I can - even if it means having it re-cleared and putting on decals for the scores.

What's the word on these? Is CPR still shipping the playfields, even with errors? Have they stopped? I'm sure they can sand and redo the ones that haven't gone out.

This just really bakes my noodle. I've had such good stuff from CPR in the past. My Xenon and Centaur playfields are spectacular. People make mistakes but everything related to Meteor has been sloppy. Glass, plastics, and playfield.

Wrong fonts, missing artwork... it's just like the blue Meteor backglass all over again. I got dragged through the mud for pointing out the issues with the glass.

I sent my original plastics to be scanned, right from my game and into the shipping box. They lost one of them and then called me angry, saying that I never sent it! The first repro sets went out to customers without it. I found the same missing plastic in another Meteor and scanned it myself for them.

After all that, they sent me a set of those plastics and it came without the missing piece. I guess you could say I was down two at that point. It felt like a huge eff you after I'd gone to a lot of effort to help them not once but twice. It didn't matter all that much anyway; the UV-printer's head was obviously misaligned and there was a noticeable blank band every 1/16" across them. With GI lights behind them those bands practically projected on the ceiling. I ordered plastics from Pinball Rescue in Australia and they were perfect. Got a one-off backglass from Coos overseas just to get the blue glass out. By that point CPR had quietly fixed the colour and put the green one up but I was still annoyed enough with them not to order it.

We need CPR in this hobby doing what they do, and they usually do a great job... but boy oh boy when they let me down they let me down *hard.*

Is CPR still shipping out these playfields? I haven't seen any recent posts. Has CPR addressed the missing numbers? I'm sure many customers are upset, how many are returning their playfields?

I still have not received an email about my playfield. I sent an email to CPR but haven't gotten a response yet. I still want one because mine is down to the wood in a few spots. I was planning on clearing the playfield anyway so I can add the numbers before I clear. I would think they would offer some sort of a discount on these now, but I don't know.

Communication with CPR has been spotty lately. I asked twice about how thick the BG for Stars was so that I could order the trim, no response beyond the initial "I'll check with Kevin and email you tomorrow". I let a week go by and then I reminded them about it, and expressed my concern at that point about the missing score numbers on the playfield. Have not heard a peep back since.

I want the playfield, so I'm going to use the decals Coyote is working on and will reclear it. I don't really think I should have to do this, since it's clearly CPR's artwork error, but I also don't want to send the PF back and get nothing.

Oh, and I measured the glass and it seems like it's 1/8" thick or maybe a hair over.... I"m hoping the rail I ordered from Marco fits it. (Why doesn't CPR offer the option to buy the rail right there or ship it preinstalled?)

I almost hate to say this, but if Highclasspinball is going to produce playfields that don't have the artwork errors, I'm just going to buy from him. I bought a couple playfields several years ago from him before the newer controversy and was happy with them (although I learned to not trust the spotting on the bottom from there, either..... it's never right it seems no matter what maker you go with)

I sent my playfield back. If I was going through the trouble of clearing I'd probably make a screen and add the text with ink and then spray clear. Of course I don't do clear coat so paying someone another 5-700 to fix the playfield just seems nuts. They will fix the art file and offer these up as digital prints eventually so I'd rather go that route than sink $12-1500 dollars into a game that cost me $400.

Although I'm not happy about the METEOR targets missing score numbers (I didn't even notice until it was pointed out) I'd be OK if CPR supplied a mylar decal at no cost to me.

My number 1 right now is Peter - @buthamburg. He does limited runs of them, and limited titles per year, but the Getaway field I got from him was flawless. I actually traded it to @kruzman for a re-clearing of my Meteor field. I'm waiting on a small touchup to the numbers before I lay them all out and get a quote on decals.

Please keep us informed - I realized back when it arrived that my existing rails.. ffffffck.

I guess I'm just easily pleased but I'm really happy with my CPR "blue" glass

Received the 1/8" trim, fits fine once you put electrical tape on the glass (you could do it without it, or use the clear epoxy some use to squish it on, I might go that way but I don't have any epoxy right now).

I wish the 'tail' on the trim was SLIGHTLY higher, but it does work. The Stars glass looks a lot better than any of the 4-5 originals I have, and there's no problems with the mirroring I can see. I still have to get side pieces of trim to fit it but I'm happy with this part of my purchase. I'm glad they didn't send me a Meteor glass thinking I'd ordered a Stars my mistake with my bundle

For the top rail I think we're just SOL, no one makes that style in the thinner.

Huh/
I got an email from CPR this morning.

They're telling me I can order my playfield if I want!

... They sent me the same email back in January. .. I am constantly amazed how these guys can sit down and not fall off their chairs.

Okay, sorry, that was low. But no mention of the mistake in the email - it is the same email I got back in January. Guessing this means I can order another if I want to..

Is anyone attempting to make a water slide and mylar fix for the new CPR playfield? Or is anyone willing to take some of my money for for it?

Absolutely HUGE conversation over here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-playfield-reproductions-coming
In short: Yes.

I have my Meteor finally running after what feels like an eternity, but have one last issue I'm hoping someone can help with.
Machine is constantly resetting.
I have narrowed it down to J2 pin one orange wire on the mpu. I have then narrowed it down to the M target on the top target bank. Disconnect orange wire and no resetting and game plays. so obvious one, change switch and diode, but no fix, same issue! Any advice is appreciated!
The other switches in the row seem.fine and isolating them didn't fix the reset issue.

The other issue I have is I have the Alltek led board in but the 1 rocket row of inserts flicker. Have tried many different leds, resistors and diodes to no avail.
I believe it is a common problem for the board and Meteor but if anyone has gotten leds to work please let me know. I'd rather not go back to globes.
Thank you!

If you have the manual handy, look at the switch matrix. Find the column with the M drop switch and see if any tilt switches are in line with that. You may have a bad capacitor on one of the tilt switches. With game in play mode, disconnect the coin door harness plug and then drop the M target and see if the problem goes away. This will isolate the slam switch or any other shorts in the coin door that sometimes affect the switch matrix.

Thank you for the info. I have already tried this with the door disconnected with no change.
I then went through the each of the switches common to Orange Pin 1 J2 and the one that fixes it ( stops issue ) is the M target only.
On the drawings, the left mid bank has capacitor but in my machine none of the left bank have capacitors. There are caps on the rollover buttons though which are not on my drawing?

I would say that's an error, because drop targets are definitely the one type of switch that does NOT need a cap.

With or without scores? /sarcasm