Be interesting to see what you measure. ALL of my targets are low (I've now done the 1's and 2's, and they sit low also.. The 'METEOR' targets I'm working on now.) I compared a good tombstone target from the METEOR stack to one of the new ones, and they looked similar - the body of the old one was taller / longer, which made it stick out of the playfield higher. But like, a fraction of an inch. That, combined with a lower ink on the numbers could very well cause this.

And, sorry to everyone else for flooding/spamming the thread with my drop-target issues. Honest. If someone wants to post LED pics or something, feel free.

All incandescents ... One day I'll do LED's

Clear coated playfield
The pf was flaking really bad, with every breath of wind paint would come up, some dirt trails got painted in, ugh.

It looks nice, maybe one day it will get a new pf

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I need a little help please...

I picked up a really nice Meteor but one of the plugs for the driver board (J3) was snapped off completely. Can someone send me a pic or two of that plug unattached so I can see the corresponding colors in the correct order they are supposed to be in? I would GREATLY appreciate it!

Below what I am talking about:

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White wire is at the top. And it looks like my blue wire needs pushed in more.

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AWESOME! Thank you! I can definitely work with that

It's also in the manual if you have it.

I have a Meteor head here an and someone did the same thing, I hate that! Animals!

Yes, but my Stern chiclet/tombstone targets have that same ridge.
They might work if they modified the bank, which his apparently was?
The stamped ones are made by PBResource.

I just finished going through the 'METEOR' targets. They (both chicklet and tombstone - they were mixed) all did have the ridge - the ridge sits on the coil latch for release. These - the new ones I got - also sit a lot better on these than putting the ridged ones in the rocket targets. Strange, but I'll take it for now.

Yes PBR and classic arcades also sells them but I don't know if his are from the same mold. Another PITA is "bricking" with the repro targets, but that's a whole other issue. Also the memory coil release levers have to be tweeked on the METEOR dt bank.

I was running the tombstones in all locations until I ran out of replacements. The Tombstones bricked also.
What tweaking do you mean?

I used tombstone repros on mine, I haven't seen any brick yet, but I still need to tweak the meteor set to get it to reset properly, at least that mech is on a plug.

Where did you get Stern Tombstone repros?

Dumb question - what is 'bricking'?

And yeah, when I put in my new targets, I had to adjust both the springs (tighten them) and the release coil latches - had to lower them a *touch*.

Oh, another dumb question -
The ribbon cables from my sound board (two of them) have 1 less pin than the header on the MPU. (So there are two unused pins on the MPU..) What's the right orientation for these?

Played the first game on my game since I brought it home. Flippers need to be rebuilt, switches adjusted, but it's solid. I'm happy with it. Had fun playing a game. Not bad for a $300 game.

Bricking is when you hit a drop target dead on and it doesn't drop. Notorious Stern thing. I think it is more with the repro targets being more flexible than original. If your game has sound, leave the ribbon cables alone. There are unused pins on the J5 header of the mpu. IIRC they are the 2 far right side. My Meteor is all apart right now so I can't tale any pics.

Ah! Huh. I'll have to keep an eye out for that.

I had to disconnect the cabels when I was working on my MPU, and just never reconnected them. Now that the rebuilding is done on the DTs, need to finish hooking up the sound. Thanks.

The ribbon connectors are oriented the same as they are on the sound boards. I think the left ribbon has a key and the right one should be butted up next tot the left. One the J5 the ribbon should be going upwards. Usually the dirty side of the ribbon will face up lol.

ok, I had backwards, it the sound board ribbon the faces up and J5 face down, see pic of my F2K.

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Thanks - got it! I guess the IRQ from the MPU (pin 34) isn't used? Seems odd, but hey, what do I know.

One of the few clubs I can join! I love this game.

Can anyone help me with this "T"? Hopefully there's an extra for sale somewhere out there. I'd like to make the targets all uniform if possible

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Also looks like you are missing the instruction card (am currently redoing all of mine).

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Definitely keeping busy with the restoration (mid-range) since purchasing this Meteor several months ago. Hoping for CPR to reproduce the playfield.

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Pinball resource has the complete 'hot-stamped' set ('meteor', 111, 222, 333), pop bumper caps, and star posts.

I have had some of the Meteor cards reproduced at my favorite print shop. I had them done on heavy card stock in off white. Selling set pictured to PS'ers for $25 + postage. Single transformer card $5 ea + postage and Meteor self test for $5 + postage. I also have complete sets for Xenon, FG, EBD, Star trek and F2K. F2K nad EBD also include score cards. Can bring any of these to Pinfest as well.
I will also ad this to the market place.

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Stripped the lamp board, that's brave. I did to 3 games so far. Are you replacing the lamp sockets?

Lamp sockets don't look too bad so decided to keep them - lamp board just needed a facelift.

Per the instruction cards - you have IM.

Did you happen to make this instruction card as well - goes on bottom of cabinet (left of transformer and above the speaker)

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There are some here on Pinside Market.

Yes, I wasn't sure if this was used in Meteor, mine didn't have it. Will be included with set.

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I have a T to match the other targets, it's NOS, $10+postage

Actually, I have that one - it had been pushed back into the back of the cabinet - I found it after I took my picture. I have all of those sheets that Lovef2k has - though I'll likely take him up on the deal once I go to rebuilding and repainting my cabinet.

I'm still working on the lamp boards - it's a little more difficult than I anticipated, due to the small size (width) they have to be to fit in along side each other on the rocket bonus lamps. I leave for California in a couple days, so I likely won't be able to continue laying out the board until I get back.

I just replaced the Meteor targets on mine. I've got a used T. PM me your address and I'll send it to you.

Is the 'Ball in Play' lamp behind the backglass supposed to be 'always on'? Wondering if I have a short in my lamp driver board..

No, only when game is active for the specific player, probably a shorted scr, easy fix. If you go LED then you might as well buy the Alltek lamp driver board since it has a jumper to eliminate strobing. Jumper connects to the feature lamp bus inside the backbox behind the lamp/display board to the Alltek board. I see them all the time for $99.

Okay, thanks. I'll probably be getting a new board, since in addition to that one stuck on, I have a handful that aren't lighting at all.

No lighting of lamps can be a number of things, loose socket, bad bulb, cold solder joints on lamp driver, connectors and of course the lamp driver. Also check the square connectors in the backbox for GI and the display board controlled lamps. They are weird connectors and hard to find. I found them at Newark.com and bought a bunch, 3 pin( service outlet plu) 4 pin (speaker volume), 6 pin and 9 pins. LMK if you need any, I can sell cheap.

So this is my last issue on the game...

Player 1 and player 2 displays do not display 10k and 100k digit. It's not the displays themselves. I've reseated everything I can on this game. What's the next step? Thanks for any help!

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If its not the displays, then check the connectors at both ends.

Shout out to Lovef2k. Instruction cards he made are awesome.

Update on my restore - laid down the red on the main cabinet. Lines were perfect and crisp

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Looking good!

What black did you use for the base?

Rustoleum satin black #7777

Spray cans.

Sanding between each coat (400 dry).

Final sand was 600 wet

I scuffed all the black with grey #000 3M pad, laid down the stencil then scuffed inside each stencil with 400 - paying particular attention to the edges.

Used Krylon banner red gloss -Wispy sprays every 3 minutes (5x). Last spray was a little bit thicker.

Waited a full 30 minutes before removal.

Removed stencil in sections (x-acto knife) and went along the edge keeping uniform tension.

Stencil removal time 30-45 minutes

Needs a couple of small things done (spinner decal, T target replaced) but it is playing hard and mean! Thanks to everyone that helped me out on bringing her back from the dead

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Are those blue or frost white LEDs under the plastics?

Blue. Looks 10x better in person

Awesome job.

Glad I picked that color as well. My LEDs are in transit

Laid down the metallic for the rocket fuselage -looks white in the pictures but is actually brilliant metallic finish

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Cool idea!