(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,363 posts
  • 134 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by KSUWildcatFan
  • Topic is favorited by 63 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 1363 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 28.
#1351 31 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Woooah. That allows getting rid of the entire stupid assembly? $44 well spent.

Plus you gotta buy all the twist sockets. It's about $80 all together. Well worth it to eliminate the unreliable sockets.

#1352 31 days ago

I've got a lot of random flickering (ESPECIALLY with that stupid center bank of lights), even with LED adapter boards installed. I assume I probably need some board work done but those sockets also suck. Looks like I'll be ordering some parts.

#1353 30 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I've got a lot of random flickering (ESPECIALLY with that stupid center bank of lights), even with LED adapter boards installed. I assume I probably need some board work done but those sockets also suck. Looks like I'll be ordering some parts.

Meteor is a special case with LEDs. I had to add resistors to 11 lamps even after adding the seigecraft anti flicker kit. 8 or 9 of them were in the bonus count area. It's a good idea to make sure your lamp driver scrs test good, but I suspect you just need some extra resistors to sort that out.

#1354 30 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Meteor is a special case with LEDs. I had to add resistors to 11 lamps even after adding the seigecraft anti flicker kit. 8 or 9 of them were in the bonus count area. It's a good idea to make sure your lamp driver scrs test good, but I suspect you just need some extra resistors to sort that out.

Certainly possible. From what I saw it was randomly scattered nonsense, aside from that center bank which altogether just sucks to begin with: One of the star rollovers, the spot meteor target, the "R" light near the spinner, maybe a few others.. but most others worked fine with LEDs and the anti flicker boards.

That said, I've also done zero board work on this game since I picked it up from someone's personal collection (it had sat unplayed for quite some time, as with the other three games I got from her) so I would not be surprised in the least if some SCRs and other misc things needed addressed. For example, my sound only goes up to a point and while being plenty loud for playing, it's absolutely nowhere near the output I can get out of my space shuttle.

#1355 30 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Certainly possible. From what I saw it was randomly scattered nonsense, aside from that center bank which altogether just sucks to begin with: One of the star rollovers, the spot meteor target, the "R" light near the spinner, maybe a few others.. but most others worked fine with LEDs and the anti flicker boards.
That said, I've also done zero board work on this game since I picked it up from someone's personal collection (it had sat unplayed for quite some time, as with the other three games I got from her) so I would not be surprised in the least if some SCRs and other misc things needed addressed. For example, my sound only goes up to a point and while being plenty loud for playing, it's absolutely nowhere near the output I can get out of my space shuttle.

I think I had 3 or 4 bad SCRs in my LDB on Meteor. And a broken trace on the back I had to fix. Common from battery corrosion dripping down. It's hard to know for sure if a dead lamp is a crappy socket or a bad SCR or in some cases, the wire feeding from the socket back to the LDB. Had a couple of those on Strikes and Spares. A quick test of the resistor theory would be to add one temporarily and see if one of the problem lights stops flickering. With those aftermarket lamp pcbs, it was easy to add resistors. I just tucked them under the ears/tabs on the twist socket and boom.

#1356 30 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

I think I had 3 or 4 bad SCRs in my LDB on Meteor. And a broken trace on the back I had to fix. Common from battery corrosion dripping down. It's hard to know for sure if a dead lamp is a crappy socket or a bad SCR or in some cases, the wire feeding from the socket back to the LDB. Had a couple of those on Strikes and Spares. A quick test of the resistor theory would be to add one temporarily and see if one of the problem lights stops flickering. With those aftermarket lamp pcbs, it was easy to add resistors. I just tucked them under the ears/tabs on the twist socket and boom.

Good advice. I've got some pretty awful hackjob wiring "fixes" to address at some point as well, but it's down on the list with hardtopping my high speed (already torn down) and eight ball deluxe (fully working but plays like absolute trash right now) and represents only one of three games in my collection right now that's even worth playing. Hate having to just deal with some of this but I'm kinda drowning in all the stuff I need to do, lol

#1357 30 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Good advice. I've got some pretty awful hackjob wiring "fixes" to address at some point as well, but it's down on the list with hardtopping my high speed (already torn down) and eight ball deluxe (fully working but plays like absolute trash right now) and represents only one of three games in my collection right now that's even worth playing. Hate having to just deal with some of this but I'm kinda drowning in all the stuff I need to do, lol

I think we all deal with it. I had a plan to do the LED conversion on mine. Did the full conversion at once. GI and controlled and put the seigecraft in there. Several were flickery and I undid the controlled lights and contacted seigecraft. He explained about Meteor and some early M200 games having this issue due to low voltage. So, I figured I wouldn't attempt the LEDs again until I got those aftermarket pcbs and addressed the SCRs.

1 week later
#1358 23 days ago

Added the 7th digit.

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2 weeks later
#1359 6 days ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Probably a header issue. Get the manual on IPDB, and identify which connector on your solenoid driver board goes out to your outhole kicker. That pin is probably garbage.

Circling back to say thanks. Reflowed the solder on the header and it took care of it.

Meteor pop bumper question: where does the pop bumper cap with the red star first show up? It isn't on the flyer. Did all games ship with the star on the cap or was that introduced later?

#1360 6 days ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Did all games ship with the star on the cap

As far as I could remember... Yes.
The only thing that really changed was the drop targets...
Meteor OEM was all "tomb stone" style drop targets.
The "M,E,T,E.O,R. drop targets were prone to break.
When ordering replacement drop targets from the distributors...
The new drop target design came into effect.
That is why, some times, you see a mishmash of drop targets on Meteor.

#1361 2 days ago

Has anyone successfully put LEDs in their meteor, ive got some anti flicker boards installed and when I put LEDs in the controlled lights they flicker like crazy if they even work...

Need some suggestions please.

#1362 2 days ago
Quoted from Y3AG3R:

Has anyone successfully put LEDs in their meteor, ive got some anti flicker boards installed and when I put LEDs in the controlled lights they flicker like crazy if they even work...
Need some suggestions please.

I've successfully converted mine to all LED using the Seigecraft anti flicker boards. Now, initially, I did have some issues. First thing, those old sockets mounted to the plates can be problematic. Also, make sure you check all your SCRs on the lamp driver. I had a couple flaky ones and a broken trace. Even after all of that, with Meteor in particular, you will have to add an additional resistor to some of the lamps. I think I had to add 8 or 9 resistors on mine. I also did away with those old metal lamp socket clusters and used these:
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones

#1363 2 days ago

Lots of flickering with mine even with the boards. Check the SCRs, ours are both most likely shot.

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