(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,528 posts
  • 150 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 hours ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 78 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 1528 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 31.
#1051 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I must have missed the post about these being available,are they still?

+1 I would like a set also.

#1052 1 year ago

lovef2k and NeilMcRae:

These are "prototype" boards that were offered for purchase earlier in this topic. I don't think they are available just yet - as this was a "test run" to see how they work out.

-Nate

#1053 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Just replaced the rectifier board with a new DIY one I bought.

Now onto the mpu issues.

Funny how the rectifier boards tend to be hacked on these early Sterns. I have another one I have to do later this week.

1 week later
#1054 1 year ago

I'm repining this connector any idea what this is about, the meteor schematics they have online are not very good for the MPU, most of it being washed out.
I ordered a replacement manual from marco, but if anyone could snap a pic of the J4 connector on the MPU I'd appreciate that very much.

those twist caps don't look factory to me.

DSCN0950 (resized).JPG
#1055 1 year ago

bump

#1056 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I'm repining this connector any idea what this is about, the meteor schematics they have online are not very good for the MPU, most of it being washed out.
I ordered a replacement manual from marco, but if anyone could snap a pic of the J4 connector on the MPU I'd appreciate that very much.
those twist caps don't look factory to me.[quoted image]

I can do that tomorrow for you. Send me a pm if I forget.

#1057 1 year ago

MPU J4
If your ever having trouble and the online schematics suck for one classic stern try a different game. All classic sterns run off of the bally 2518 MPU so most of the wiring is universal when it comes to the backbox wiring harness.

20181229_235524 (resized).jpg20181229_235531 (resized).jpg
#1058 1 year ago

What is the exact order of events to get the 255x bonus countdown? I want to test the alternate ROM. I thought it was something like max bonus x, max rockets, spinner counting while draining over a collect rockets outland but I couldn't recreate it with the old ROM. I know it's happened on the old board during regular play.

#1059 1 year ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

MPU J4
If your ever having trouble and the online schematics suck for one classic stern try a different game. All classic sterns run off of the bally 2518 MPU so most of the wiring is universal when it comes to the backbox wiring harness.
[quoted image][quoted image]

awesome, yeah the only other old stern I have is a freefall... I wasn't sure if the wiring was the same or not. I didn't even think about comparing it to a bally.
thanks you very much, for the pic.

now to find out why they used twist caps in the first place.

2 weeks later
#1060 1 year ago

Any tips for replacing or fixing lamp sockets which are mounted on a rail in a strip (for example, in Meteor in the 1, 2, 3 lights in the lower center of the playfield). Are these sockets available for sale individually and are you able to mount them on the rail?

For flaky sockets, I usually either replace or solder the nipple to the ring, but for these rail ones, even the solder method seems to be coming up short - it still rotates within the rail and the lamps light intermittently or with twisting/pressure. I suppose I could try to solder the socket to the rail? Thanks for any advice.

#1061 1 year ago
Quoted from westofrome:

Any tips for replacing or fixing lamp sockets which are mounted on a rail in a strip (for example, in Meteor in the 1, 2, 3 lights in the lower center of the playfield). Are these sockets available for sale individually and are you able to mount them on the rail?
For flaky sockets, I usually either replace or solder the nipple to the ring, but for these rail ones, even the solder method seems to be coming up short - it still rotates within the rail and the lamps light intermittently or with twisting/pressure. I suppose I could try to solder the socket to the rail? Thanks for any advice.

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/circuit-boards/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones

#1062 1 year ago

I soldered the sockets to the rails, and that fixed several of my lamp issues. I used a fiberglass pen to scratch up the spots, then some flux, and set my soldering iron to the highest setting. For the remaining problem lamps, I soldered the controlled wire directly to the tip of the socket, and that fixed the rest. No problems after that.

#1064 1 year ago
Quoted from westofrome:

This is tempting. Curious to see pics if anyone has all of these installed in their game.

They make great products. Haven't used on Meteor but have used bigger sets for Nine Ball.

20190115_104644 (resized).jpg
#1065 1 year ago

Those light boards sound like a godsend right now, what timing. Messing around with a few light sockets I had tried just about everything on, I dropped one row and it hit a piece of metal and immediately blew a transistor on the light board. Those factory light sockets are just complete garbage.

Also the only area I didn't solder a resistor to every light for LEDs, left them incan due to pure rage in touching them again.

#1066 1 year ago

I'm selling my Meteor. Pm me if you're interested.

#1067 1 year ago

Ok, so how do you gap the EOS switch on the upper flipper in order to weaken the output so you're not smashing the ball into the METEOR targets at such close range??

The switch is normally closed, and opens when power is sent to it. I can understand if the switch is open you would just increase the gap, but I must be missing something??

Also, is this the easiest way to weaken the flipper other than replacing the coil?

Thanks!!

#1068 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Ok, so how do you gap the EOS switch on the upper flipper in order to weaken the output so you're not smashing the ball into the METEOR targets at such close range??
The switch is normally closed, and opens when power is sent to it. I can understand if the switch is open you would just increase the gap, but I must be missing something??
Also, is this the easiest way to weaken the flipper other than replacing the coil?
Thanks!!

You shouldn't need to mess with the eos if you've got the resistor in line with the coil.

#1069 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Ok, so how do you gap the EOS switch on the upper flipper in order to weaken the output so you're not smashing the ball into the METEOR targets at such close range??
The switch is normally closed, and opens when power is sent to it. I can understand if the switch is open you would just increase the gap, but I must be missing something??
Also, is this the easiest way to weaken the flipper other than replacing the coil?
Thanks!!

By increasing the gap, you've made it so the switch opens earlier during flipper travel. This removes power from the high power winding so the flipper will depend on the hold winding to continue moving the flipper to full up position, thus weakening flipper power.

#1070 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

You shouldn't need to mess with the eos if you've got the resistor in line with the coil.

I looks like using the resistor creates sparks, the pf below that spot was all black - is that correct?

#1071 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

By increasing the gap, you've made it so the switch opens earlier during flipper travel. This removes power from the high power winding so the flipper will depend on the hold winding to continue moving the flipper to full up position, thus weakening flipper power.

Ok, that makes sense, so I want the eos open so only the "hold winding" will move the flipper up. I'll give it a shot once I get Meteor powered up for the first time.

Thanks!

#1072 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Ok, so how do you gap the EOS switch on the upper flipper in order to weaken the output so you're not smashing the ball into the METEOR targets at such close range??

Are you using a J-25-600/34-4500 coil for the upper flipper? The lower flippers use a J-25-500/34-4500. My limited understanding of electronics is that the 500 refers to how many times the wire is wrapped around the coil. The longer the winding the weaker the flipper strength. The 600 coil is used for the upper flipper to make it weaker, so that it won't break the meteor drop targets. Does your coil have two diodes attached?

#1073 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I looks like using the resistor creates sparks, the pf below that spot was all black - is that correct?

It shouldn't create sparks or anything.

#1074 1 year ago

The 600 coil is used for the upper flipper to make it weaker, so that it won't break the meteor drop targets. Does your coil have two diodes attached?

I've replaced all the coils, I'll have to check that I used the 600 for the upper flipper - I probably did as I went by the parts in the user manual.

Even with the weaker coil, I'd hate to fire up my brand new game and see target heads flying off in all directions!!!

#1075 1 year ago

"The 600 coil is used for the upper flipper to make it weaker, so that it won't break the meteor drop targets. Does your coil have two diodes attached?"

I've replaced all the coils, I'll have to check that I used the 600 for the upper flipper - I probably did as I went by the parts in the user manual. It's been a year(!) since I replaced them.

Even with the weaker coil, I'd hate to fire up my brand new game and see target heads flying off in all directions!!!

#1077 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I looks like using the resistor creates sparks, the pf below that spot was all black - is that correct?

The resistor gets hot and probably burned the playfield. Raising it off the surface would allow it to cool better, but then you take the chance vibration will break the leads.

#1078 1 year ago

Archived after 23 days
545 views
Sold for $ 1,450
Contributed to Pinside
Machine - For Trade
Partially restored (almost original) “I'm open to offers or trades This machine is 100% working and has been in my personal collection for 4 years. It has a new rectifier board from Rottendog, and new LED displays fro...”
2019-01-25
Cañon City, CO
Trade

Sad to leave the club, but sometimes a change is needed.

#1079 1 year ago

I actually had the same coil at the top as the bottom flippers..........so I swapped it out for the 600 that was in there, and yes, it does have the two diodes attached.

Thanks for the reminder - don't know why I put all three the same, have been following the manual for parts. Glad I double-checked.

Man, what were they thinking, using that puny pf support bar?? I've been adding a second piece of wood trim as a prop arm because that original one has "FAIL" written all over it!!

So fun soldering and replacing a coil with the playfield installed

#1080 1 year ago
Quoted from westofrome:

This is tempting. Curious to see pics if anyone has all of these installed in their game.

in a meteor, was thinking of doing some quick connects as well.

Meteor (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#1081 1 year ago

Can anyone upload a better scan of the lamp schematics table? The one on IPDB isn't readable... I've got a weird issue with all my wow lights flickering

#1082 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Can anyone upload a better scan of the lamp schematics table? The one on IPDB isn't readable... I've got a weird issue with all my wow lights flickering

Are you running LEDs on the original boards?

#1083 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Are you running LEDs on the original boards?

No Leds. It's just the four wows. Trying to figure out if there's something in common.

The weirdest bit is that they all flicker even with J3 unplugged, which supposedly is what one of them is powered by, if I'm reading it right. But that shouldn't be possible. So either the scan is bad or I've got a short somehow?

#1084 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

No Leds. It's just the four wows. Trying to figure out if there's something in common.
The weirdest bit is that they all flicker even with J3 unplugged, which supposedly is what one of them is powered by, if I'm reading it right. But that shouldn't be possible. So either the scan is bad or I've got a short somehow?

Definitely check over all the wiring. It is easy fro things to move around and you may have something shorting against one of the wires. Or one broken off and touching.

#1085 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Definitely check over all the wiring. It is easy fro things to move around and you may have something shorting against one of the wires. Or one broken off and touching.

Already checked the four sockets, but they're not touching anything. Can't think of anywhere else they could short. But I still don't get what the connection is between those four lamps. It's not like they light in unison usually. Hence the need for a good schematic

#1086 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Already checked the four sockets, but they're not touching anything. Can't think of anywhere else they could short. But I still don't get what the connection is between those four lamps. It's not like they light in unison usually. Hence the need for a good schematic

Weird things can happen with switched lamps if the switch matrix come in contact with ground. On one of my restore F2K's, the red outlane lamps were staying on solid. I racked my brain for 2 days and if I tapped the side of the cab, they would go out. It turned out to be a short between the coin door ground and a switch on the coin door. Look over any work that you did between now and before the lamps started flickering. Also did you confirm that the lamp driver is good?

#1087 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Weird things can happen with switched lamps if the switch matrix come in contact with ground. On one of my restore F2K's, the red outlane lamps were staying on solid. I racked my brain for 2 days and if I tapped the side of the cab, they would go out. It turned out to be a short between the coin door ground and a switch on the coin door. Look over any work that you did between now and before the lamps started flickering. Also did you confirm that the lamp driver is good?

Tested lamp board in another game. Haven't done any work under the playfield yet, just got this set up. Someone's been messing with the coin door wiring but I unplugged it and it didn't help.

1 week later
#1088 1 year ago

I have a 7.9/10 original backglass that I am thinking of parting with... PM me for details....

#1090 1 year ago

Thanks, but you're a real jerk for telling us this. Going to have to live on oatmeal for the next month. Worth it though.

#1091 1 year ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Thanks, but you're a real jerk for telling us this. Going to have to live on oatmeal for the next month. Worth it though.

Your torture is my pleasure

#1092 1 year ago

The drops up top, any suggestions to get them to drop easier?
Was thinking about minimizing the EOS stroke for the upper flipper, even with the resistor it's still to powerful half the time.
not sure what else to try. shaving down that portion of the target, might cause the target to go back down after resets.
All the flippers were completely rebuilt from A-Z, so they all almost have to much power now.

Kicking my self in the ass, I have no idea what I did with the original targets. All I have is repro's.

#1093 1 year ago

Hey..

Can ya'll verify for me..

Did Meteor ship with #455 bulbs behind the backglass at all?

#1094 1 year ago

I received my CPR reproduction glass today. Overall, satisfied with the product. It is a significant improvement over my existing glass, but it's not without flaws. Before spending your money, you should know what you're spending it on so that you have an expectation of what you will receive. I have typed up a review and uploaded photos in this thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-backglasses-added-at-cpr#post-4857461

#1095 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hey..
Can ya'll verify for me..
Did Meteor ship with #455 bulbs behind the backglass at all?

I don't see any, only 44/47 bulbs

#1096 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

The drops up top, any suggestions to get them to drop easier?
Was thinking about minimizing the EOS stroke for the upper flipper, even with the resistor it's still to powerful half the time.
not sure what else to try. shaving down that portion of the target, might cause the target to go back down after resets.
All the flippers were completely rebuilt from A-Z, so they all almost have to much power now.
Kicking my self in the ass, I have no idea what I did with the original targets. All I have is repro's.

ok tweaking the EOS did the trick, wasn't aware it would make that much of a difference.

#1097 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I don't see any, only 44/47 bulbs

Interesting, thanks!!

#1098 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I don't see any, only 44/47 bulbs

Somebody must have changed them to get the flickering effect.

#1099 1 year ago

#455 lamp...
Gottlieb would use a different lamp socket to delineate the #455 lamp on there back box.
Bally used cupped back box spots on Captian Fantastic pinball; Wizard did not.
Data East used #455 in there back box... but did not have a marker; usually the bottom row G.I.
Data East and Williams would use the #545 wedge lamp... Williams used black wedge socket to
_delineate.
Stern/Williams/Gameplan/Bally 1980's back box as a rule... used #455 as accents to
the back box, what ever the Operators likings were. #455 was/is more expensive
than the #44 or #47 lamps... some Operators would use #55 ouch!
This lamps would be on sale and where cheap.
#130 lamp, nobody knows about... small with a round head... good for having an air gap
from the back board to the backglass.

#1100 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Somebody must have changed them to get the flickering effect.

it's the same socket size right?
Just a different type of bulb, do they go in the lighting baffles?

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