Yes! We need a link.
I have read thru the entire Meteor thread (in the past), but cannot remember if this information is included in previous posts.
Posting a cheat sheet/map of the playfield rubbers -- quantity and sizes, bulb count, fuses, and quantities of faceted posts.
I have tried to be accurate, this is what I have come up with as I am working thru my project game. Any adjustments can be made as needed. Hopefully this can help someone going thru a bunch of searching in the future.
The thing I had a hard time figuring out when piecing mine together was where the short vs tall posts go. There are shopout images in the gallery here, but it's still hard to tell.
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:The thing I had a hard time figuring out when piecing mine together was where the short vs tall posts go. There are shopout images in the gallery here, but it's still hard to tell.
I made up another map for that during tear down, but I'd need to clean it up before scanning/posting to understand my scribbles.
I believe all the posts behind the Meteor drops are short as are the six surrounding the upper flipper. I have the two posts under the spinner as shorts as well as the posts under the slingshot plastics and the two outlane posts. Everything else is tall. I also tried to note which posts had screws vs. stud fasteners -- I can clean up my map and post if that helps anyone.
Quoted from TheLaw:The short ones go UNDER plastics and tall ones hold them up.
Plus the outlanes are short.
My game may be far from original -- but under the plastics along the sides (along shooter lane and behind 1 and 2 drop targets) all the posts were tall. The posts that do not support the plastics are secured to the playfield with screws, the posts that support the plastics are secured with a stud type fastener that sits slightly taller than the screws (thus raising plastics above all posts).
To make it even more interesting the metal studs that support the plastic behind the Meteor drops are shorter than the taller post studs (which makes sense).
I could very well be wrong -- worst case scenario do what I did and order a couple extra of each post just in case.
Quoted from TractorDoc:The posts that do not support the plastics are secured to the playfield with screws,...
Yes Sterns idiotic plan to stay away from tophat posts god those things suck. I don't think I actually had any issues with my Meteor ones but almost all the nine ball ones where totally jacked...dremel city to get them off. Then getting new ones long enough adding washers etc etc
Anyway, my real point is people get too worked up about the posts. I see all the time "Help which posts go where?!!"
The short ones are obviously too short to support the plastics or posts. Can the talls ones fit under the plastics without scratching/touching them? Then they're fine.
I'll have to check what my original set up was.
Brought home a Meteor and all is working except the sounds - which were working at the machine’s previous home.
Adjusting the volume knob at the bottom of the cab is not producing any white noise, so it seems like the amp is the issue.
I am getting no vdc at TP2 (should be 11.9) but am getting 5vdc at TP4.
I checked and reseated all connectors on the sound board and the MPU ribbon cable connections, and checked all fuses on the rectifier board.
Can you help me diagnose the issue?
How can I determine if it's a capacitor issue or something else, like a connection?
Quoted from westofrome:Brought home a Meteor and all is working except the sounds - which were working at the machine’s previous home.
Adjusting the volume knob at the bottom of the cab is not producing any white noise, so it seems like the amp is the issue.
I am getting no vdc at TP2 (should be 11.9) but am getting 5vdc at TP4.
I checked and reseated all connectors on the sound board and the MPU ribbon cable connections, and checked all fuses on the rectifier board.
Can you help me diagnose the issue?
How can I determine if it's a capacitor issue or something else, like a connection?
Pull the sound board out of game and check the backside of the headers for cold solder joints.
I'm at work or I'd look for you. You might flip the board over to find they're going to the same place. In any case, if it worked at the other location the pins didnt move themselves to another spot, right? Did you undo backbox connectors and potentially mis-align or flip the ribbon cables? The other suggestion to look for cold solder joints is a good one as well. You may be able to narrow this down with the wiggle test. Wiggle the connectors at the sound board, mpu, and rectifier board and see if you get any static or intermittent sound
I think your scan is bad. I remember that schematic as having pin 6 go down to connect to the same line as 5 at that round dot, so having the wire at pin 5 or 6 would make no difference
If it worked at the previous place, I would highly suspect a connector issue. On mine, most of the original connectors were literally falling apart. Give some of the individual wires a tug...especially on the connectors you had to disconnect for transport.
Quoted from westofrome:Another issue I'm running into is the ball getting stuck between the two posts of this plastic, usually on the plunge. Does this mean that my incline isn't steep enough or is there another way to avoid this?[quoted image]
It shouldn't be able to get stuck, isn't there a rubber there?
Anyone have an extra Meteor Lockdown Bar? I bought a project meteor and it was missing the glass and lockdown bar.
Thanks,
Joe
any of you had the problem that when the ball is pushed out to the plunger that it gets stuck and needs a bit of a nudge?
Neil
Quoted from NeilMcRae:any of you had the problem that when the ball is pushed out to the plunger that it gets stuck and needs a bit of a nudge?
Neil
That usually means that the incline isn't steep enough. Try using the pinguy app, placing the phone in the center of the playfield (with the glass off). It should be 6-6.5 degrees.
@neilmcae are you talking about when the ball is launched from the trough and gets held up under the apron? The end of the trough ramp has 2 forks at the end of it, try shimming the top fork up just a little bit to prevent the ball from coming to rest.
Quoted from Thrillhouse:@neilmcae are you talking about when the ball is launched from the trough and gets held up under the apron? The end of the trough ramp has 2 forks at the end of it, try shimming the top fork up just a little bit to prevent the ball from coming to rest.
thanks!
Is it normal for the meteor targets to be about 1/8" above the playfield when dropped? Shouldn't they be flush?
Quoted from SuperPinball:Is it normal for the meteor targets to be about 1/8" above the playfield when dropped? Shouldn't they be flush?
I've heard some repro targets are the wrong height
Quoted from zacaj:I've heard some repro targets are the wrong height
I have both original and repro from Marco, both are above the playfield when down.
Quoted from setzkor:I believe you adjust the height with the bar on the mech under the playfield.
the slots in the metal on the back face are the limiting factor. I'm considering dremelling the slot lower by an 1/8 th but wanted to know if its current position was normal.
I was able to get mine flush to the playfield by adjusting the lower bar by loosening the set screws and rotating it's position relative to the coil stop... You should be able to raise or lower the drop position. Another option if they are all the same height is to put spacer washers between the mech and the playfield. That should lower them all.
IMG_20181209_213703 (resized).jpgQuoted from setzkor:I was able to get mine flush to the playfield by adjusting the lower bar by loosening the set screws and rotating it's position relative to the coil stop... You should be able to raise or lower the drop position. Another option if they are all the same height is to put spacer washers between the mech and the playfield. That should lower them all.
[quoted image]
This is what I did as well.
I have an Alltek MPU in my Meteor and recently encountered the "endless bonus count" bug. I'm surprised the Alltek didn't come programmed with the updated code. What's the best way to fix this?
Quoted from westofrome:I have an Alltek MPU in my Meteor and recently encountered the "endless bonus count" bug. I'm surprised the Alltek didn't come programmed with the updated code. What's the best way to fix this?
Call Alltek and see if they can fix it, or ditch the Alltek and use an MPU-200 with updated ROMs. Or just live with it....it doesn't happen but once in a blue moon.
Quoted from dothedoo:Call Alltek and see if they can fix it, or ditch the Alltek and use an MPU-200 with updated ROMs. Or just live with it....it doesn't happen but once in a blue moon.
Or get a weebly MPU where you can actually change the roms
Quoted from dothedoo:Or just live with it....it doesn't happen but once in a blue moon.
Yeah I've only seen it happen once.
It might be a bug but if it's part of the game then players should be allowed to exploit it. I say keep it in, learn to replicate it, and destroy the competition.
Quoted from semicolin:It might be a bug but if it's part of the game then players should be allowed to exploit it. I say keep it in, learn to replicate it, and destroy the competition.
Except I don't believe it ever stops scoring points....so the next player could never play
Quoted from tomdotcom:Except I don't believe it ever stops scoring points....so the next player could never play
The bonus multiplier overflows to 256X. It ends if you're prepared to wait..
Quoted from semicolin:... I say keep it in, learn to replicate it, and destroy the competition.
Yeah I was happy to take my win when it happened to me but after a few minutes and realizing it's never going to stop you gotta move on
Exploit? Shit... If you're good enough to max your rockets, hit the spinner then drain in the outlane you deserve the win.
Does Meteor have a fuse that does controlled lamp? I accidentally shorted with a screw driver tightening the light bank for the missile lights.
Quoted from SuperPinball:Does Meteor have a fuse that does controlled lamp? I accidentally shorted with a screw driver tightening the light bank for the missile lights.
Yep, F1 on the rectifier board
Quoted from zacaj:Yep, F1 on the rectifier board
I was hoping it was that but F1 tested good. I even tried swapping MPU board and Lamp driver boards with no luck. I will try swapping the rectifier board out and see if that helps next.
If you moved things under the playfield and shorted the lights, I would look around and see if two things are touching each other that shouldn't be. also, pull the fuse and test it outside of the clip. (This may be a duh suggestion, but I've done it a lot of times)
Quoted from canoncitypb:If you moved things under the playfield and shorted the lights, I would look around and see if two things are touching each other that shouldn't be. also, pull the fuse and test it outside of the clip. (This may be a duh suggestion, but I've done it a lot of times)
Even though I as told by the previous owner that the rectifier board is "in mint shape" , I think I'm going to replace it with a new one anyway. Not to mention I'm getting 3.1V out of TP1.
rectifier board Shit (resized).jpgOne man's "mint" is another man's "lemon". And where is the large cement resistor on the right side? It looks to be missing??
Quoted from setzkor:One man's "mint" is another man's "lemon". And where is the large cement resistor on the right side? It looks to be missing??
That rectifier board just wasn't worth trying to save especially that those boards are relatively cheap. I spent the afternoon repinning and soldering on another board. Everything works as it should and no hacks.
New Rectifier (resized).jpgInstalled the LED light boards for the spinner lights and the rocket bonus - a LOT of wires to solder since I didn't use the pinned plugs option, but I tested with an AC adaptor and they seem to work just fine, I'll know once I get my project Meteor up and running.......
2 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinball_Nate:Installed the LED light boards for the spinner lights and the rocket bonus - a LOT of wires to solder since I didn't use the pinned plugs option, but I tested with an AC adaptor and they seem to work just fine, I'll know once I get my project Meteor up and running.......
[quoted image][quoted image]
I must have missed the post about these being available,are they still?
Slowly getting my project meteor up and running,
Looking for a spinner for mine if anyone has a extra.
Also looking for any used or nos stern drop targets to buy.
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