(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,528 posts
  • 150 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 78 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 1528 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 31.
#801 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

dothedoo where did you purchase the short posts?? Mine are really dried out and cracking, some already deteriorated........

Pinball Resource
http://www.pbresource.com/posts.html

3 weeks later
#802 2 years ago

Do Bally slingshot assys fit Meteor?

Need a couple.

-Nate

#803 2 years ago

I am currently working with Xpin to sort out an issue with the 7volution displays in my Meteor. Can someone that has gotten these to work properly hit me up so I can compare games? TIA.

1 week later
#804 2 years ago

Proud new owner here!

#805 2 years ago

Finned or faceted posts? Which are original?

I had a mixture of both on mine............need to replace.

#806 2 years ago

Faceted. Finned are Bally.

#807 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Faceted. Finned are Bally.

Thanks!

#808 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

While the LED boards are complete, they're on a temporary pause right now, as I'm working on something better, with help and permission from herg. Something MUCH, MUCH better.

Any updates or sneak peeks?

#809 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Any updates or sneak peeks?

Heh. Not yet. Since new year's, I've been really busy away from home. I have to do some more tests with my mess, and if it's successful, I send out to have a prototype board made. Hopefully by the end of this month, I should know if it's doable.

1 week later
#810 2 years ago

OK, I wanted 7 digit displays in my meteor and originally tried the XPIN displays, but that didn't work out well. So I built up a set of seven digit LED displays and got the 7 digit ROMS. However, I had to change the jumpers on my CPU to use the 2732 ROMs. Once installed the MPU will only flash 3 times, but I think that is indicating the ROMs are fine. So I thought it might have been my jumper settings, but if I throw my Bally Nitro Groundshaker ROMS in, the MPU will boot just fine.

Question: is there something different that has to be done on the MPU between the Stern ROMs and the Bally ROMs? Maybe a different RAM chip? I'm afraid the MPU may have been setup for Bally machines and just replacing the ROMs isn't enough? Anyone have an idea?

#811 2 years ago

Stern needs the different cpu speed jumpers set. What type of MPU are you using? Did your old meteor roms work fine in it before jumpering?

I'd think that if you get your first flash then the roms are jumpered correctly, unless you messed up the wiring for another component by accident at the same time or something.

#812 2 years ago

I had to strip a Meteor recently (BAD termites) so if anyone is looking for specific parts to this game let me know

#813 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Stern needs the different cpu speed jumpers set. What type of MPU are you using? Did your old meteor roms work fine in it before jumpering?
I'd think that if you get your first flash then the roms are jumpered correctly, unless you messed up the wiring for another component by accident at the same time or something.

I'll check into that jumper and see what I find.

I had an altek in it and bought a Stern MPU-200 (A602) which was working. It had smaller rom chips so I had to change the jumpers for the new ones but it booted fine originally (roms were not labeled). Since this board boots with nitro roms I'm guessing your speed jumper may be what I'm missing.

#814 2 years ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

I had to strip a Meteor recently (BAD termites) so if anyone is looking for specific parts to this game let me know

I need the plastic that sits above the upper flipper. Mine is cracked.

#815 2 years ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

I had to strip a Meteor recently (BAD termites) so if anyone is looking for specific parts to this game let me know

If you have a good spinner (artwork better than 50%), I'll take it. Mine's trashed.

Also, a reminder for folks!
Meteor playfields could get remade! Go sign up at CPR's site!

#816 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Stern needs the different cpu speed jumpers set. What type of MPU are you using? Did your old meteor roms work fine in it before jumpering?
I'd think that if you get your first flash then the roms are jumpered correctly, unless you messed up the wiring for another component by accident at the same time or something.

Well it doesn't look like it was the jumpers. I pulled the board and checked them all including the speed jumpers.

I'm suspicious of the second RAM chip. I read the Stern games use both RAM chips and the Bally only the first one. The flashing indicates it may not be passing the RAM test so that could explain why a Bally rom would work. I'm going to source a few new chips and see if that fixes it up. If not I may have to send it off to get checked if I can't scope it out.

#817 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

Well it doesn't look like it was the jumpers. I pulled the board and checked them all including the speed jumpers.
I'm suspicious of the second RAM chip. I read the Stern games use both RAM chips and the Bally only the first one. The flashing indicates it may not be passing the RAM test so that could explain why a Bally rom would work. I'm going to source a few new chips and see if that fixes it up. If not I may have to send it off to get checked if I can't scope it out.

You need to have two of the same, faster memory speed.

#818 2 years ago

Just ordered a j-27 1700 coil for slingshots - why is the PBR replacement so much thinner than the original??? Was surprised at the difference between the two.

There's a photo of the two coils side-by-side in my Meteor resto thread.

1 month later
#819 1 year ago

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip so that when I take the assembly out to service it I can replace those and have a matched set. At some point I may spring for a full set down the road but would be happy if I can at least get these two. I'd be glad to buy any good original spares without the lip that match these so I have some on hand in case any break. Please send me a PM if you have something that may help.

Robert

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#820 1 year ago

It looks like the previous person that "shopped" the game I bought may have messed up on the placement of the red playfield posts. I can see that there are two different heights and one thing that caught my eye is that the spinner sits on an angle. If anyone has a good picture of how the spinner is supposed to sit let me know.

Also it appears that a couple posts are cracked and some had been replaced with a different style/pattern on the post. I'd like to confirm what style should be on the game and try to get more of those so they all match.

Seems like a fun game so far and I look forward to cleaning this up.

#821 1 year ago

Low posts go under plastics with a screw, and in the outlines. Tall posts go whoever there is a top hat that goes through the plastic to have a faster go on top.
Look at the pi right above outer posts, talls on the sides with nuts on top, shorts go under the plastic.

#822 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

It looks like the previous person that "shopped" the game I bought may have messed up on the placement of the red playfield posts. I can see that there are two different heights and one thing that caught my eye is that the spinner sits on an angle. If anyone has a good picture of how the spinner is supposed to sit let me know.
Also it appears that a couple posts are cracked and some had been replaced with a different style/pattern on the post. I'd like to confirm what style should be on the game and try to get more of those so they all match.
Seems like a fun game so far and I look forward to cleaning this up.

According to this game that I shopped for a customer, spinner sits on short posts. However, in my game, spinner is on tall posts.

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#823 1 year ago

Thanks for posting the pictures. It looks like the game should have all faceted posts. Most are like that on mine but some star posts are mixed in on one side. There is also one missing and a couple broken that I need to replace. Also the spinner is sitting on an angle because the installed one short and one tall. I guess they could not make up their mind on what was right so they used on of each.

I just want to make it right when I get a chance to clean and wax the playfield and install fresh rubber rings. Looks like I need to get one of the post screws too for the missing post.

#824 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip.

I just saw that these drop targets use stickers so if I can't find any with the M an E then just regular ones will work and I can order a sticker set. Does anyone have extra plain ones they pulled out when putting in a new set?

#825 1 year ago

Has anyone else noticed that with LED's in the coin door that they can be seen if you look between the lock bar and playfield?

I had some extra white LED's that I just put on the coin door. They look great from the outside but I've noticed that you can see them if you lean over the playfield a bit and look down by the lock bar. It was bugging me a bit so I wanted to make a shield to keep the light going where it should. Modeled up the first version last night to try. Have a few adjustments to make and then print it in black to help block the light more. As it is this first attempt seems to help a great deal. Will see how the next version works.

Does anyone have spare coin door parts? I need one of the screws that holds the chute to the door as well as one of the coin switches and bracket that holds that switch with the screws. With that I could have all three coin mechs working.

Robert

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#826 1 year ago

How the hell can you determine which hole size you have for the coil stops?!?! Pinball life is offering two different size holes (6 vs 8)??

Mine look like the larger hole, they are copper colored.

-Nate

#827 1 year ago

I always buy the dual-hole coil stops.

#828 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

How the hell can you determine which hole size you have for the coil stops?!?! Pinball life is offering two different size holes (6 vs 8)??
Mine look like the larger hole, they are copper colored.
-Nate

Take off your coil stop and compare the screw with a #6 and a #8 screw?

#829 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I always buy the dual-hole coil stops.

There are such a thing?? Oh geez.........okay, well that's a no-brainer then!!

I would think that messes with the alignment but I guess not since there is play at the other end of the coil bracket?

dothedoo thanks for being there - my Stern guide!!!!

#830 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Take off your coil stop and compare the screw with a #6 and a #8 screw?

Yep, had that idea also - but dummy me didn't realize you could get both hole sizes on the stops offered by Pinball Life!!!

#831 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Yep, had that idea also - but dummy me didn't realize you could get both hole sizes on the stops offered by Pinball Life!!!

That's not how it works. They sell two types. Both have two sets of holes, one has bigger holes

#832 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That's not how it works. They sell two types. Both have two sets of holes, one has bigger holes

Classic Stern coil stops (resized).jpg
This is true, but I haven't come across a case where the #6 hole baseplates have a spread configuration which would use the outer holes on the coil stop on the left. The coil stop on the right has covered everything I've ever needed -- early style baseplates use #6 screws and the inner screw holes, later style baseplates use #8 screws and the outer screw holes.

#833 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

This is true, but I haven't come across a case where the #6 hole baseplates have a spread configuration which would use the outer holes on the coil stop on the left. The coil stop on the right has covered everything I've ever needed -- early style baseplates use #6 screws and the inner screw holes, later style baseplates use #8 screws and the outer screw holes.

I haven't either, but there must be a reason they make them like that ...

#834 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I haven't either, but there must be a reason they make them like that ...

Maybe Chicago Coin I don't know. Would be interesting to see a mech that uses them.

#835 1 year ago

Possible those other sets of holes are used for kickers? (Slingshots, pop bumpers?)

#836 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Possible those other sets of holes are used for kickers? (Slingshots, pop bumpers?)

Not that I've seen. Classic Stern and other manufacturers that use the same mechs all have the coil stops with narrow spaced holes and #6 screws.

#837 1 year ago

Ummm, ok............... so it looks like I'm using the #6 hole size regardless of the inclusion of a second set of holes - that second set are there for what reason no one seems to know..................

Think I got it now - I have the older base plate without the bent "legs" on it so the #6 should work - egad these Stern parts!!!!

#838 1 year ago

Hi there looking for a replacement switch for the star post rollovers. Does anyone have a part number or source...
Thanks
Al

#839 1 year ago

I tried out the 2nd version of the light shield for the coin door lamps. Made these out of black ABS for use with LEDs. Made a huge difference. I no longer get the light shining up behind the lockdown bar. I may make a couple more adjustments since I want to make them 1mm taller and bring the sides shown on the left and top out a few mm to ensure they cover the hole. I wouldn't recommend use these with regular bulbs since there would be too much heat there.

Robert

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#840 1 year ago

The final version of the lamp cover for the Meteor coin door fits perfect! The lamp socket it holds it in place. I made it 1mm taller and bumped out the one side and top another 3mm to ensure it covers the coin door hole. One picture shows one new one with the previous version and then a couple that show all the new ones installed.

Now I just need to get a couple of those short screws like the ones used to secure the lamp sockets and that extra middle switch assembly/bracket. Then I can install the coin mechs again.

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#841 1 year ago

My nephew came over while I was working on the game and I think he is now hooked on this machine! This is a great example of a game that you don't have to have a lot of extras to make it a fun game. Eventually I will get this setup next to my Blackout.

#842 1 year ago

So, I have been working on my coin door. It had one broken .25 mech installed. I just put in a pair of .25 metal mechs and one SBA mech on the door. Also found that two slots were covered in duct tape to keep people from using those slots. Took a while to get that and all the old dried up adhesive off.

After all these years it is hard to tell what parts may have been mixed up. The game currently has the SBA mech on the right and the .25 on the left and in the center. Is that how these were normally configured? I have a blackout and it has the SBA in the middle and the .25 mechs on the right and left. I wasn't sure if the Stern should be like that or the way it is now. If your machine came with two .25 and one SBA mechs how are they positioned?

Still need to find the mounting bracket and switch for below the middle mech. It looks like all three switches are the same. If anyone has an old coin door being parted out I could use those parts and a few screws. Maybe even one of the white .25 entry slot plastic pieces.

#843 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone that installed a new fresh set of drop targets still happen to have the originals you pulled out? I just joined the club and noticed that two of the drop targets on my machine have the extra lip on the top. I'd like to find a good used M and E drops without the lip so that when I take the assembly out to service it I can replace those and have a matched set. I'd be glad to buy any good original spares without the lip that match these so I have some on hand in case any break. Please send me a PM if you have something that may help.

It looks like I need to add an O to the list. If you have any spare METEOR chiclet style drops let me now.

#844 1 year ago

Stern leaf switches - noticed a weird thing last night - it appears that all the contacts for the leaf switches are "weird." Instead of the contact "buttons" being where the flat-round part faces each other, one round part faces so that it is touching the BACK of the other contact button????

First noticed this on the target mech when I took it apart to clean it - is this how the switches are supposed to be?? I always assumed that both fronts of the buttons made contact???

#845 1 year ago

Stern leaf switches - noticed a weird thing last night - it appears that all the contacts for the leaf switches are "weird."

Instead of the contact "buttons" being where the flat-round part faces each other, one round part faces so that it is touching the BACK of the other contact button????

First noticed this on the target mech when I took it apart to clean it - is this how the switches are supposed to be?? I always assumed that both fronts of the buttons made contact??? (ie: faced each other)

#846 1 year ago

I thought I read somewhere that contacts on some games could have been installed backwards. Maybe that is the case on your game. Are they all like that or just some of them?

#847 1 year ago

Very common. Williams games had switches built like this too. As long as they're clean you really shouldn't have a problem with them. If they're worn though, try turning the blade around before buying a new switch.

#848 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Very common. Williams games had switches built like this too. As long as they're clean you really shouldn't have a problem with them. If they're worn though, try turning the blade around before buying a new switch.

Which side should be touching? Flat or small rounded?

#849 1 year ago

Should be the larger gold-plated rounded side.

#850 1 year ago

Thanks guys, I thought that wasn't right. I have disassembled the target and actually put it back the same way (doh!!) but as you say, hopefully it will work ok.

Yes, they all appear to be that way.

Thanks for the information - I'll turn them around if they look like they need it.

Wow, damn these old Sterns!!! hahaha.

-Nate

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