Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

(Topic ID: 134253)

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"


By pinballholder

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,125 posts
  • 114 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by hailrazer
  • Topic is favorited by 48 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 1125 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 23.
#1 3 years ago

Given the large production numbers (8000+) and all the love early solid state machines are getting lately, I think it's time that Meteor got it's own club. Plus I just picked one up and could use a dedicated thread to all things Meteor!

Stern Meteor

#2 3 years ago

First question...I assume I can convert Meteor to using a 7 digit display, is that difficult and is it worth it?

#3 3 years ago

Wouldn't mind adding one to my permanent collection. Meteor was the first pin I've EVER played, broke, and helped fix. When I was 10.

#4 3 years ago

Yeah I love their price point, you can find one in decent condition (relative I know) under a $1000. There are lots of fun and intelligent drops, and a great spinner that is fun to rip. Looking forward to getting my 100%.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

First question...I assume I can convert Meteor to using a 7 digit display, is that difficult and is it worth it?

Boom. Very easy. no tools needed, and takes like 20 mins. Definitely worth it as this game can be rolled rather easily.

http://xpinpinball.com/shop/catalog/7volution

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

First question...I assume I can convert Meteor to using a 7 digit display, is that difficult and is it worth it?

Yes. Remove 6-digit displays, add in 7-digit displays. Add a wire and connector from the MPU to each of the 4 player displays. Download and burn new ROMs (Meteor/2) from the following link:

http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

Or you can download and burn the Meteor/5 ROM images and install using the standard 6-digit displays. That will effectively divide the scores by 10. Anything that you would normally score 500 points for you would only get 50 points.

Personally, I'd do the 6 to 7-digit conversion.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Boom. Very easy. no tools needed, and takes like 20 mins. Definitely worth it as this game can be rolled rather easily.
http://xpinpinball.com/shop/catalog/7volution

Nice! I didn't know about these.

#8 3 years ago

Ok great info! Next question, I have a broken letter target (2nd E), try to repair or just buy replacement drops? If buy option, will the PBR ones fit? I heard that there are some drops that are too long and have to be tweaked to get to fit.

#9 3 years ago

I converted mine to seven digits years ago, thanks to an extra wire and a Shabow custom rom. Great upgrade and highly recommended, whichever method you choose.

I see you have the hooded drops in the Meteor bank. Replacement drops with hoods, hot stamped or with decal, are readily available. The tombstone variety, like those in your number banks, are NLA and must be sought out in the used market. The tombstones drop better, in my experience.

FWIW, the original drops had decals, not hot stamped. Action Pinball sells replacement decals for Meteor drops and the spinner, but I am not impressed with the resolution. They aren't bad, they aren't good. They're simply OK, in my opinion. I need to make own one of these days. I have the Meteor spinner art on file and made my own sticker for that.

And, in case you missed this information, the Pinball Pimp now sells Meteor cabinet stencils.

Enjoy your Meteor.

#10 3 years ago

One other note that has been mentioned elsewhere, but should be added to the club thread...

Stu has completed the art work for Meteor. There is no timetable that I am aware of for adding it to the CPR reproduction schedule, but the fact that the artwork has been completed is reason to hope for new PFs some year in the future. As I recall, he had another artist working on the BG and plastics, but that art work has not been completed, but I could be wrong.

#11 3 years ago

I refuse to convert my meteor to seven digit displays. I want to be able to brag that I have a pinball machine I can roll over! I love drop targets, so Meteor satisfies my jones for them. On the other hand, the rectifier board is a big trouble spot for these machines. I've bought a replacement board, but been to chicken to replace my patched up one, because my soldering skills may not be up to the challenge.

I bought a whole set of new drops at the Allentown show. Of course, I had already bought the stickers. I'm not impressed with the sticker look.....

Enjoy your Meteor, and sign me up for the club!.

#12 3 years ago

Ok, sounds like I should keep my tombstone number drops for now. I will replace the whole set of METEOR drops with the ones from PBR so they all match (hot stamped).

Yeah, I was lucky that my Meteor came with newer MPU (alltek) and new rectifier board (already soldered in).

Yeah, I will prolly keep 6 digits for now and see how the displays work and how easy the game ends up being to roll.

#13 3 years ago

Manual and various posts and help articles all point to having a single service button on interior side of the coin door. Any reason mine has two wired buttons? Would like to run diagnostics to see if I have any bulbs out.

Coin Door

#14 3 years ago

If I remember correctly, the one button takes you through each diagnostic/setting, the other changes the setting option if you're in a setting.

For example, if you're in the high score levels, the extra button changes the high score that you want set for that level.

On other games like ballys, the start button has this same function.

#15 3 years ago

Sorry. That is not exactly right. Just checked this on my early stern. The button closest to the door is used to reset any of the settings, audits back to zero. The button farthest from the door changes the setting or diagnostic you're in.

The credit button serves the same purpose as ballys

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

Yeah, I will prolly keep 6 digits for now and see how the displays work and how easy the game ends up being to roll.

Rather than getting 7 digit displays, people should simply set up their games much tougher.

An example... I got a Firepower2, it was so easy I rolled it first game. Hardly a challenge for anyone to play. No point owning a game like that. I removed the mini post rubbers down by the out lanes, and now it's a drain monster. Just one simple change made the game a keeper.

If you find you're rolling Meteor constantly, I would remove those massive star posts in the outlanes. Thatll sort out the men from the boys. . Then if you STILL keep rolling it, get 7 digit displays.

I love my Meteor BTW ... One of the classic Sterns of its era.

rd

#17 3 years ago

Yeah, I think that's great advice. I seem to prefer brutal machines lately so this lines up with my thinking.

#18 3 years ago

I had to make my Galaxy tougher. Doing so stopped the easy rollovers cold; however, I like the seven digit scoring on Meteor. There's a difference between it and Galaxy, as far as evoking a desire within me to make it harder, but I can't put my finger on it.

#19 3 years ago

Meteor has a fun spinner shot. If I remember correctly, Scott Charles tweaked the performance of his spinner until he was getting 100k for a single rip through (don't quote me on that number, but his results were impressive). How tuned is your spinner? The best I've noticed on mine is 81k; time for a tune up?

#20 3 years ago

It's pretty stiff right now, waiting to get the drops all functional before I start tweaking but I suspect that will be near the top of the list. I also have some pretty bad mylar lift that's affecting play. Hoping early Stern's are better then early System 11's when it comes to mylar removal.

#21 3 years ago

I bought a bottle of dry slick at pagg. That will get that spinner ripping!

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I bought a bottle of dry slick at pagg. That will get that spinner ripping!

What bottle of dry slick? Lol.

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Jabbles180:

What bottle of dry slick? Lol.

Did you use it all already? Dude you "rip it" way to often!

#24 3 years ago

In an attempt to get this club back on track, I will ask another noob question. I am used to late 80's and newer pins, but from what I gather there is no way to set these earlier Sterns on free play. Do most people just leave a quarter in the machine and load up credits or are there other options? I would have assumed there would be a way with the Alltek board that I have, but I haven't seen anything yet on this.

#25 3 years ago

Mount a contact switch behind your start button and then wire it to a coin shoot switch. Thus, when you press the start button it also adds a credit.

Or just set replay to something stupid low.

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

In an attempt to get this club back on track, I will ask another noob question. I am used to late 80's and newer pins, but from what I gather there is no way to set these earlier Sterns on free play. Do most people just leave a quarter in the machine and load up credits or are there other options? I would have assumed there would be a way with the Alltek board that I have, but I haven't seen anything yet on this.

Alltek has free play for Ballys, but not for Sterns.

Easiest thing to do is set the game to 40 credits, then set it to "replay", then set the first replay level at 10,000 points. Set the second one to 100,000 points. Then manually click up 40 credits. You will never run out of credits.

rd

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from Jabbles180:

Mount a contact switch behind your start button and then wire it to a coin shoot switch. Thus, when you press the start button it also adds a credit.

When the quarter goes through the coin mech, the final tiny wire switch at the bottom drops when the quarter hits it, and it closes the switch. If you wire something up to that, then it's up to you how and when you close the switch manually, or like jabbles said -- automagically by piggy-backing another switch. Just pick the switch that still adds credits (with or without a mech) and is still wired up.

-mof

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from Jabbles180:

Or just set replay to something stupid low

Just do this.

#29 3 years ago

I have a real nice one I need to sell if anyone wants to join the club.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-really-nice-meteor-in-northeast-pa

#30 3 years ago

I'm kinda in the club, been working on a meteor for the past month or so...still haven't played the game. Got a little more work on the playfield, but at least the spinner is done

IMG_20150802_202450.jpg

2 weeks later
#31 3 years ago

So next thing on my list is pulling off my Meteor's mylar. Looks like someone started the job and then just stopped part way up the playfield, as there is a jagged line in what's left. There is also some pretty big bubbles that start at the bottom edge (see photos). Is there a preferred method of working on these early Stern playfields? Heat versus freeze, etc? There are no insert graphics to worry about, but want to make sure I don't pull off any paint (like with the early System 11s).
20150801_192011.jpg
20150801_191955.jpg

#32 3 years ago

So I have had one offline vote for the freeze method. But still looking for someone with actual early Stern experience.

#33 3 years ago

This is the game that got me started, I love it.

Instead of spending 300+ on 7 digit displays, just get the divide by 10 roms.

#34 3 years ago

Pulled the pop bumper mylar off using heat on mine. Worked fine until I got impatient then I lifted some paint near the edge. Did not try the freeze method.

#35 3 years ago

This is the second time in this club. Meteor was the first pin I owned. That one was a mess when I bought it and should have been parted but I bit the bullet and got it decent again before I sold it. I plan to keep this one for awhile.

#36 3 years ago

Also, does the new roms fix the bug? I think it has something to do with the bonus.

1 week later
#37 3 years ago

Friend needs to do some repairs on his meteor. I know its an older stern but is there a repair guide avail for this system? link or pdf?

Thanks

3 weeks later
#39 3 years ago

Well I finally decided to be brave and pull my mylar off my Meteor (see photos in prior post). Was much easier then I expected. I attempted first with my wife's hair dryer and it worked like a charm.
Hair Dryer used
Mylar when done
Playfield when done

#40 3 years ago

Used the flour and alcohol method to great success.
Flour on playfield

#41 3 years ago

Also tried my first attempt at flattening some plastics using glass and wax paper. After a few days in the sun it was much improved but not 100%. Cheddar recommended I try using a dark cloth under the glass or heat gun with plastics sandwiched still. I tried a hair dryer and it helped a little more, and is probably good enough now.
Flattening in sun

#42 3 years ago

Final product after much waxing and cleaning. Used magic eraser and alcohol to clean up ball swirl and caused some of the touch ups to disappear, but that's ok as they were not the best touch ups to begin with.
Meteor all cleaned up

#43 3 years ago

Nice looking machine Seth. Its making me antsy.

#44 3 years ago

You and Cheddar just need to go halvsies on it.

2 months later
#45 3 years ago

New club member here. Having some sound board problems. I think it's related to the connector. Can someone post a pic of the ribbon cable sound board connector?

#46 3 years ago

I'm now a member having bought this exact machine. Put a refurbished mpu board in it and it plays great.

Jabbles180 fixed the drops and a bunch of other issues. He removed the outlane posts and it plays like a demon. I have to do something nice for that guy for everything he's done!

#47 3 years ago

I fixed the sound problem by swapping out one of the 5101 chips on the cpu board for a 5101P-1 instead of the 5101L-1 chip that was the game when acquired so no need for pics anymore.

Also fixed a non-working memory drop target by replacing Q8 with a new TIP 102.

Such an amazing pin!!! It will be staying around here for while!

3 weeks later
#48 3 years ago

I recently obtained a meteor, and have mismatching flipper coils.
The manual has 34-4500 for all 3 flippers.
I have 34-5050's for the lower flippers (kinda soft) and a 34-4500 for the upper flipper (IMO, too strong)

Any recommendations for the upper flipper or does everyone use a 34-4500?

#49 3 years ago

For the flippers, you need both sets of numbers in the manual for the coils (one pair for each winding...in this case, I think the 34-4500 refers to the hold coil). The lower are J-25-500/34-4500, these are pretty common and available at Pinballlife etc. The top flipper coil is a J-25-600/34-4500 and is a little more difficult to source. When I redid mine, I left the original in place as it still worked. Also, many of these shipped with a 1 ohm 5W resistor in series with the top flipper coil, I replaced with a 1 ohm, 10W. Some may not have had it and you can adjust the EOS switch to lower the power on the top flipper if you think the plastics are in danger.

#50 3 years ago

Will adding a resistor to the top flipper reduce the power? If so, how/where is it wired? That flipper can be a wet noodle and still be perfectly capable of doing its job. I am tired of breaking drop targets.

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There are 1125 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 23.

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