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(Topic ID: 249130)

Meteor boot up issue


By dpapclare

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by bigalbert
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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One image has been uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20190718_102517_HDR (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

I'm having an issue with my Meteor where I'm not getting the last beep at start up. I have a Weebly NVRAM mpu, their 32 pin connector and an alltek driver board in the machine. I'm getting all voltages except for the 180v (the light isn't coming on the board). All fuses are good on the power supply. I'm at a loss right now. Anyone know where to start from here?
20190718_102517_HDR (resized).jpg

NOTE: Photo is not recent, the machine does not make it to attract mode.

#2 1 year ago

Looks like you are making it to attract mode. If the display is lighting up it should be fully booting up and the +180v for displays is present.

In the cabinet by the coin door and the MPU has a black test button on the right side. Either button should get you into test mode. After powering on and the beeping stops try pushing the test button. All solenoids should fire in order Q1 to Q19, listed in the manual or usually a card in the backbox. All feature lamp will blink. All displays count up. If you push the test button a few more times you will get to a switch test where you can check the coin and start button switches if you are having trouble starting a game. Try that and see if it goes into test mode and find out what is working or not.

#3 1 year ago

It looks like there are credits on the game. I assume you can't start a game? Make sure all of the connectors are seated properly on the MPU. If the connector for the switch matrix isn't on correctly, you won't start a game. Also, make sure the connectors for the MPU to sound board are correct as that can create problems too. If you're not sure, unplug the ribbon cables off the sound board and see if you can start a game.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Looks like you are making it to attract mode. If the display is lighting up it should be fully booting up and the +180v for displays is present.
In the cabinet by the coin door and the MPU has a black test button on the right side. Either button should get you into test mode. After powering on and the beeping stops try pushing the test button. All solenoids should fire in order Q1 to Q19, listed in the manual or usually a card in the backbox. All feature lamp will blink. All displays count up. If you push the test button a few more times you will get to a switch test where you can check the coin and start button switches if you are having trouble starting a game. Try that and see if it goes into test mode and find out what is working or not.

The photo is not recent, sorry for the confusion. It doesn't make it into attract mode haha.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Eric_S:

It looks like there are credits on the game. I assume you can't start a game? Make sure all of the connectors are seated properly on the MPU. If the connector for the switch matrix isn't on correctly, you won't start a game. Also, make sure the connectors for the MPU to sound board are correct as that can create problems too. If you're not sure, unplug the ribbon cables off the sound board and see if you can start a game.

This isn't a recent photo, the machine does not make it to attract mode, sorry for the confusion

#6 1 year ago

If you are only getting 6 beeps at boot up, it means that the MPU isn't getting coil voltage. Remove the fuse from the power supply to see if it blown.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Eric_S:

If you are only getting 6 beeps at boot up, it means that the MPU isn't getting coil voltage. Remove the fuse from the power supply to see if it blown.

Fun update. I replaced the fuses with known working fuses. Tried turning the game on and now I have absolutely nothing at all...

#8 1 year ago

Make sure you replaced the fuses in the fuse holders properly. I once snapped the fuses in between the fuse holders and I blow Bridge rectifier

Mike V

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from RacingPin:

Make sure you replaced the fuses in the fuse holders properly. I once snapped the fuses in between the fuse holders and I blow Bridge rectifier
Mike V

This.

Was there a blown fuse that you removed? What size fuse did you put in? Why did you change 2 fuses?

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from dpapclare:

Fun update. I replaced the fuses with known working fuses. Tried turning the game on and now I have absolutely nothing at all...

Was any of the fuses blown? When you put a new set of fuses in did any of those blow? It is best to check them with a multimeter, but usually can you visually see if they are bad as the wire in the glass is broken open.

For you to get nothing when you turn the power switch, no lamps, no power indicator LEDs, no voltage anywhere then I would expect the line cord fuse to be blown which is F6, 3A slow blow (MDL-3).

When you are missing the 7th and last flash that usually means the solenoid fuse on the rectifier board, F4, is blown. When that fuse is gone the zero cross detection circuit on the MPU board does not work, so you get no 7th flash.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from RacingPin:

Make sure you replaced the fuses in the fuse holders properly. I once snapped the fuses in between the fuse holders and I blow Bridge rectifier
Mike V

Fuses were snapped in properly, was thinking Bridge rectifier could possibly be bad.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Eric_S:

This.
Was there a blown fuse that you removed? What size fuse did you put in? Why did you change 2 fuses?

Based on a visual inspection the fuses looked fine. When I put in the replacement fuses in, suddenly the machine would not power on anymore.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Was any of the fuses blown? When you put a new set of fuses in did any of those blow? It is best to check them with a multimeter, but usually can you visually see if they are bad as the wire in the glass is broken open.
For you to get nothing when you turn the power switch, no lamps, no power indicator LEDs, no voltage anywhere then I would expect the line cord fuse to be blown which is F6, 3A slow blow (MDL-3).
When you are missing the 7th and last flash that usually means the solenoid fuse on the rectifier board, F4, is blown. When that fuse is gone the zero cross detection circuit on the MPU board does not work, so you get no 7th flash.

I found the f6 fuse I had put in to be faulty. After replacement I am back to the beginning of missing the 7th flash. I put a known working 5A fuse in F4 and this did not change the fact we are missing the 7th flash.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from dpapclare:

I found the f6 fuse I had put in to be faulty. After replacement I am back to the beginning of missing the 7th flash. I put a known working 5A fuse in F4 and this did not change the fact we are missing the 7th flash.

You need to find out the F4 is blowing with a multi meter. If the bridge is bad its possible that it made F6 to blow too.

If you find F4 to be blown you can try powering up with only rectifier J2 plugged in, J1 and J3 rectifier off. If the F4 still blows immediately the bridge is probably bad.

Testing a bridge rectifier. multi meter set to diode test. Red lead on negative ( - ) lug of bridge. Black lead probe each AC ( ~ ) pin. Should see 0.400v to 0.700v. Then do black lead on positive ( + ), red lead probe AC ( ~ ) pins looking for same 0.400 to 0.700v. A reading outside of 0.400 to 0.700 is a bad bridge making the fuse blow.

1 month later
#15 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

You need to find out the F4 is blowing with a multi meter. If the bridge is bad its possible that it made F6 to blow too.
If you find F4 to be blown you can try powering up with only rectifier J2 plugged in, J1 and J3 rectifier off. If the F4 still blows immediately the bridge is probably bad.
Testing a bridge rectifier. multi meter set to diode test. Red lead on negative ( - ) lug of bridge. Black lead probe each AC ( ~ ) pin. Should see 0.400v to 0.700v. Then do black lead on positive ( + ), red lead probe AC ( ~ ) pins looking for same 0.400 to 0.700v. A reading outside of 0.400 to 0.700 is a bad bridge making the fuse blow.

Update, finally had a technician look at the machine and the second beep is missing, seems there is an issue with the mpu (6810 chip I think he said). Pretty disappointed since the board was only a week old when this happened.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from dpapclare:

Update, finally had a technician look at the machine and the second beep is missing, seems there is an issue with the mpu (6810 chip I think he said). Pretty disappointed since the board was only a week old when this happened.

That's odd weebly board uses the onboard 6810 (it's built into the 6802 processor). Bummer. I'm sure Andrew will take care of it.

1 month later
#17 11 months ago

I have a stern meteor game that had been sitting for a couple years in my workshop worked fine before the 2 years of not powering it up.when I did power it up a couple weeks ago it didn’t come all the way up just some lights lit. After checking voltages found out the power rectifier was bad I replaced it and crimped new connectors all voltages then ok game still never came up. I substituted a good solenoid board from one of my other machines and it would allow the solenoid all tested good. Still wouldn’t come up. The solenoid board was bad so I ordered a new solenoid from alltek and also a new ultimate mpu from them at the same time and a new sound board. After receiving those three boards and installing the game came up. I played a few balls but the left flipper seemed sluggish so on about the third or fourth ball I put my finger on the play field about 1 inch in front of the slow flipper and with my other hand and pressed the left flipper it slapped my finger stopping before Full swing and the game hasn’t worked since I get the flashing 8 lights on the mpu and the miniature light goes steady on the mpu. Nothing game wise works when turning on mpu test correct all the lights go thru their cycle and start over and over Solenoids all test ok no fuses are blown. I’m now not sure what to do next. I’m looking for ideas. Thanks

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