I had some time at lunch and cleaned up the test results:

MPU-200 #1 - Actual clock speed measured with scope 837khz (Reported clock speed 826khz, Display 398.92)
Code seems to run ok on this with the updated loop settings. Haven't tried to dial them back down

MPU-200 #2 - Actual clock speed measured with scope 812khz (Reported clock speed 658khz, Display 339.13)
Code totally freaks out with the higher loop settings. Haven't tried to dial them back down

MPU-200 #3 - Actual clock speed measured with scope 865khz (Reported clock speed 551khz, Display 424.12)
Code seems to run ok on this with the updated loop settings. Haven't tried to dial them back down
Got some odd switch readings with this board for some reason.

Alltek @ 100 - Actual clock speed measured with scope 558khz (Reported clock speed 531khz, Display was 0 and probably need to reseat and rerun test.)
Code seems to run ok on this with the updated loop settings. Haven't tried to dial them back down

Alltek @ 200 - Actual clock speed measured with scope 891khz (Reported clock speed 524khz, Display 430.31)
Code seems to run ok on this with the updated loop settings. Haven't tried to dial them back down

At the moment it looks like it runs on one of the MPU-200 boards and the Alltek. While the other boards boot fine on the bench and board #2 had been working in a machine I think I need to take a closer look at board #2 and also why the odd switch readings on #3.

I may swap out the 100pf caps for the clock on the two slower boards to see if that brings up the clock speed and helps.

I will check those pins. In regards to the connections I believe that while many of the MPU-200 boards have a cable on the pins that able makes contact on the front/back of the pin while most of the connectors used for the upgrade modules make contact on the sides of the pin.

That shouldn't be a problem on the board that is acting flaky and the connectors all look perfect but I'm not going to make any assumptions and will test again.

I have the serial logs saved and can message those if you want to take a look.

I just ran the Arduino with the Meteor code on a Bally -35 board and it seems fine. Still trying to figure out what it issue is on that #2 MPU-200 board. Swapped out the 100pf caps. No change. Tried a different 9602 chip. No change. Even swapped out the 68B00 chip that was in there with a different brand 6800 in case it was having issues being halted. Reflowed the solder on the header and as far as I can tell each has good continuity with the adapter plugged in. Haven't tried swapping the 74LS125 on the adapter board with a 74125 to see if that helps. Definitely something odd going on with this MPU-200. Without the Arduino on it the board boots and seem to run fine. Will need to do more digging.

That's funny that you'd think I wasn't confident soldering! It's actually the downloading of info and getting it all working in sync. I still have a pin buddy I can ask. It just amazes me because I'd pay $200 for one and it sounds like parts are $20 or so. I've just never had to beg to find someone to take my money

Let me get this downloaded and I'll run it again on all the boards tested. I'll be glad to contribute where I can. Also I think this will help identify MPU boards that could use further fixes to make sure they are 100%

Tests running now...

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Taking a small pause as I re-pin the .100" connectors on the top of the tester. I knew I was going to need to and one pin broke during testing. Going to resume after those are done.

Don't get me wrong. I say that with zero hostility towards anyone. I appreciate that you've done this. I'll find someone, I'm patient

The issue with something like this is support, if someone assembles the board and get it running and the buyer has issues getting it to work in their machine the assembler is on the hook for support. Not something I'd want to deal with.

Check out your local hackerspace:
https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/California

I'm sure you can find someone there to take it on.... show up with the boards and you'd be good to go. From the past projects and current ones though, it seems like there's going to be tweaks needed so you're going to have to learn to update the arduino code at a minimum.

We bought a Meteor a few months ago and I have been planning to upgrade or update it somehow. I was amazed to come across this work you have done on new code and hardware. I have an electronics background so ordered the parts I don't already have and will build this and install it in our game. Keep up the good work, and I will update this forum when I get this installed.

DickHamill I am curious what speakers you recommend? I assume they need to be powered but is there any other suggestions? I can add a switched power outlet to power them. But, I can imagine the old paper speaker build in will handle new sounds.
TiA

Got the board built and received the Wav trigger today. Now to move onto loading software....

DE61E8C4-0E2E-4C50-A61C-250125E5855D (resized).jpeg

I'm totally new to this arduino stuff so I'm sure I'm doing something simple, wrong.

When I tried to upload the sketch of the nine files I get this error:

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

I downloaded the BallySternOS.cpp and .h from the library files.

I solved this by re-copying the BSOS_Config.h from the Meteor2021 zip file. Posting anyway in case others run into this issue.

Plugged it in and got this:

pasted_image (resized).png

No attract mode yet but seems like progress is being made.

After being on this for a few seconds it goes to all 10000 on the player scores and then to 00 on everything.

No reaction to start, coin or service switches.

What board is in your machine? Is it an original MPU-200? There seem to be some odd timing issues with the MPU-200 that I’m trying to help resolve.

Seems to run without issues on an Alltek or if you happen to have an old Bally -35 board it should run on there too.

I have three working MPU-200 boards I’ve been testing with and have an access to a 4th which is still in my Meteor.

It is the original MPU-200

My understanding is with the -200 I do not need the IRQ jumper, correct?

When the jumper is disconnected I get nothing, when the jumper is connected is when I get what is seen above BUT when that is connected the game will not boot to original with the J3 jumper removed.

I'll try the burning the machine diagnostic and see if that tells us anything.

I have Roys board and put the jumper from the center to the 5V so you'll definitely want to try that if you haven't installed one.

I'll check the Vin, the Arduino has power... (leds lit)

To clarify the IRQ jumper description. When the jumper is Not connected the Arduino does nothing but the original game will boot with J3 off. When the IRQ jumper Is connected the display will show "2021" as seen in the photo but the original game will Not boot.

I'll double check the connectivity of the IRQ line as suggested.

Thank you.

Ah, makes sense!

Its working!

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It was just the 5v jumper.

Now to move onto the wav trigger.

Looks like a 1/8W to me too. I ordered 1/4W and the packaging says 1/4W but I guess they could have made a mistake. Thanks for the mention.

I suppose it actually could be since some of the resistors have gotten smaller. I've ordered some 1/2 watt resistors that looked more like 1/4 watt.

For the value and where it is used actually any wattage 1/8 or larger should be ok. I onlt mentioned it since I am used to proof reading assembly docs as I use them. Just updating it to add a note to install the 10K resistor (without calling out the wattage) and just list in the parts section that it is a 10K but may be supplied with 1/8 or 1/4 watt and either is fine.

I need at least one more set so will probably put in order with you shortly.

Its possible its one of the new(ish) 'mini' resistors.

I ordered some recently for a kit project I was doing and got 1/4 watt mini resistors that looked like 1/8 watt.

Looking at the Nano it appears there are still two unused I/O pins. Looks like A6 and A7 are open. If those are not reserved for anything else it would be nice to keep those open as generic I/O pins. Either as Analog or digital inputs/outputs.

Do any of you have a closeup of the wav trigger install? Is it intended to solder directly to the RoyGBev board pins?

Also, are the sound files intended to be simply copied to the flash, retaining the entire file names?

TIA

I've been playing the new code, its so much fun.

Thanks again DickHamill !!

Typically you would use a short 6-pin cable straight through to connect on the header pins on each. I soldered 6-pin headers to both boards.

Before using it there are several steps and you’ll want a to get one of the USB adapters for updating the firmware on the wav trigger.

These steps just need to be done once to update the wav trigger
- solder 6-pin header to wav trigger
- download v1.30 firmware and update utility
- set the slide switch on the wav trigger to the load position
- connect your desktop computer to the wav trigger using a usb cable and the adapter to the 6-pin header you installed above
- connect an external power supply to the wav trigger
- run the wav trigger flash utility.

Once the new firmware is on the wav trigger you can disconnect everything.

- you need to solder bridge two pads to allow the wav trigger to be powered through the 6-pin connection so it will get power from the RoyGBev board. If this is done earlier you may it need the extra power adapter to program the new firmware but it’s safer for dedicated power for that part.

All the actual sound files are stored on a microSD card and plugged into the wav trigger. You load the files using your computer and copy to that card.

- get a microSD card 2gb or larger and just copy all the sound files to the root directory on the card.

From the docs the only part that matters is the first three digits as it used that to identify what sound number to play. The rest of the name is more like a comment and is ignored.

After that just plug the wav trigger in with the 6-pin cable and the audio jack

You're welcome to use it on the Github pages for the project if you think it will help others!

So far the Meteor code is running solid on an old Bally -35 board and also on an Alltek. Still need to go back and see what is going on with those MPU-200 boards. Once that is resolved will finally get a chance to run it on the actual Meteor.

I've been running it on my simulator and now have a whole new control panel and the new switch matrix checks out.

This is a really cool project and once I get a chance to get more into the code I would like to use it as the base for a couple other games.

Upon inspection of the machine at hand, I find that it actually has present NVRAM.WEEBLY.COM replacement board. The J5 connector appears as in https://ballysternos.github.io/install.html

this photo: https://github.com/BallySternOS/BallySternOS/blob/master/images/IMG_2572.jpeg?raw=true

J5 us connected to the Stern sound board. My question is "for the wave trigger board, does it parallel the pins as the Stern sound board appears to just take off the pin row.", or rather, may there be a closeup of this given photo, with the cables lifted up?"

I've been wanting to get a video of it, I wanted to get somewhat decent first. Its funny I remember hitting that stand-up target ALL the time on the original code now it's almost impossible to hit when I need to fire the rockets. lol. Its amazing how different it makes it.

I still need to wire in the switch so I can select from new and old code.

DickHamill I am installing the J5 adapter and Bally/Stern OS on our Meteor and today I got the whole thing soldered together, got the code written to the Arduino. All that has gone fine, I double checked for solder bridges and bad connections before I installed the adapter onto the J5 port of my Meteor. When I pulled off the SB-300 ribbon cables that were in the J5 slot (MPU200) I noticed that the last two pins (33 and 34) were removed from the header. So, I put those in and checked the others while I was at it. Then I installed the adapter to the J5 board, left the SB connections off for the moment and didn't connect the WavTrigger yet. I did what others in this thread have done and forgot the second jumper so only the GI lit when I first booted. Then I realized my mistake turned it off and put the jumper on and it booted to a different attract mode, but nothing more. No random firings or anything on the displays. I tried removing the adapter and it now won't boot into the old code either.

I am thinking those missing pins may have been removed to bypass a short or something, or maybe there is another issue on my PCB (the RoyGBiv one) but reading through this thread the above quote was the only one that sounded like my issue. I did see another person had problems with MPU200 boards, but a game that functioned fine before now won't boot with or without the adapter. I very well may have messed something up, or the old game I am shopping was hanging on by a thread and all the work has knocked something loose. Anyway, do you have any ideas or suggestions what I could try, or what I may need to fix?

Thanks for all you have done to make this a possiblility.

Can you post pictures of the boards and of the connector? You shouldn't need to pull out any pins on the Stern MPU-200 board. Can you confirm that you are running an MPU-200?

I've built a couple of the RoyGBiv adapters and both were fine. Have the Meteor code running solid on an Alltek and on a Bally -35 MPU. So far I've had issues on 4 different MPU-200 boards. All those boards run fine on the bench and in the game without the Arduino. Going to send off one of those boards to help isolate the issue which hopefully will help everyone running an MPU-200 board.

If your game won't boot without the adapter I would suspect your ribbon cables going to the original sound board. If they are off a pin, swapped, reversed, etc the game won't boot. Those cables are easily put back on wrong. Lots of people have done it. I've taken good pictures of mine and the cables are marked.