Joined the club. Hoping that there is no ghosting, unlike my SMVE.
Quoted from KornFreak28:
Great information guys! Thanks a lot! I wish I could play them both but there are none near me.....guess will just have to keep checking out youtube videos to help me make my decision. Thanks!
I was having the same issue -- Pro vs Premium/LE. I played both versions multiple times. I ultimately went Pro. I couldn't justify the extra money for the hammer, spinners, rising cross and lightshow.
The Pro plays faster (no waiting for the rising cross or hammer ball lock). I miss having spinners - Stern definitely cheaped out. The rising cross really doesn't make a difference to me.
Eventually, I'll add Time Bandit's lightshow. The lightshow on the Prem/LE is a nice feature.
I was lucky enough to live near Pinballerchef who did the spinner upgrade on his Pro. I like it and I might add it later. Like more cowbell, you can never have enough spinner - especially if they're lubed!
If you go Pro, you've got "extra" money, that would have otherwise been sunk in the Premium, for plastic protectors (Rickwh's Sparky protector), beer, money for HankScorpio's LED insert (worth the money or you can DIY), color LEDs to replace some of the white ones and a subwoofer.
You'l have fun with both. Just join the club.
Quoted from Rickwh:
With the CT sale, i picked up some led flashers for the backboard of my met pro. I got flex head flat 8 flashers. There are 6 89 flasher sockets back there.
I went with
Blue. White. Blue. Blue. White. Blue.
I tilted the heads of the blues so that they aimed away from the center lightning generators in the artwork and the whites i directes right at the center. I think it came out really well.
Inexpensive way to make a big visual impact.
Looks like another cost cutting measure. My newer Pro has 4 flashers.
Maybe I'll put a couple of sockets back there to get Rickwh's effect.
Mylar's not the answer to defective merchandise. My level of frustration is through the roof
Quoted from indybru:Yeah, I was alerted to this by a local pinsider otherwise who knows when I would have seen it. I just put a piece of mylar on it and will keep an eye on it.
Good you gave recent owner's a heads up.
Mylar's not the answer to defective merchandise. My level of frustration is through the roof.
Quoted from KornFreak28:
Can you tell me exactly where this damage is? The pic is upclose and cannot tell where it is on the PF. I'm going to ask the distribuitor to unbox it and inspect that area before buying. Thanks
The ball return at the bottom of the playfield under the apron, behind the flippers.
At this point I'd recommend NOT buying new. I'm a two-time loser with ghosting, clear coat, and ramp lifting issues on a 4 month old SMVE and a clear coat issue starting on a 3 week old MET pro.
Find a HOU machine you can take a look at. It's worth it even if you have to drive to San Antonio (2.5 hours) or Austin (4 hours). I spent most of my life in Texas (Austin, Dallas, Houston and San Antonio) and I know the drives are long and boring. The gas money and time is worth foregoing the frustration and heartbreak of buying NIB.
Quoted from Jaybird815:
That would have been prevented had he put a little Mylar down there
The playfield clear coat is separating on two new machines. No amount of mylar is going to prevent this from happening. There is a problem with the playfields. Period.
Mylar is not magic. Mylar does not clamp the clear coat to underlying playfield. Mylar can help prevent friction wear. To a lesser degree it can absorb and distribute some energy from impact.
The clear coat either creates interfacial bonds (technically adsorption), chemical bonds or mechanically interlocks with the substrate (the underlying playfield surface). I don't know the chemistry of the clear coat and I don't know the state of the surface finish before the clear coat was applied so I can't speculate on the method of failure in this case.
The playfield clear coat is separating on two new machines in the same location. The sample is small in this case (an N of 2) but at least it plausibly suggests a repeatable issue (manufacturing method, chemical or a combination of both).
Look at the picture of my SMVE. The ball coming out of the Sandman VUK pounds the playfield to the point it makes a crater. If the playfield were going fail this would be a prime spot for it to crack or chip. It didn't and it hasn't. Yes, the area has mylar. The clear coat in this particular area shows no sign of delamination or cracking from the underlying playfield (it would be visible through the mylar). Mylar did not affect the bond between the clear coat and the underlying playfield.
The ball rolls over the edge and into the trough. It doesn't take repeated strikes from Sparky. If the area took hard strikes, there would be dimpling. There is no dimpling in the area under the apron in either SMVE or MET. My MET and SMVE playfield have dimples everywhere from air balls.
Two machines have the clear coat peeling up in the same area.
If mylar is the answer, then the playfields should leave the manufacturing line with the entire playfield covered in mylar …
… then we'd all complain that the wear was causing haze and we couldn't see the graphics.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:
Have the playfield issues with ghosting, clear coat lifting, chipping, etc been resolved on new Metallicas? I am close to pulling the trigger on one, but want to be sure the playfield not gonna be a problem. Why won't Stern address this publicly?
No, my clear coat is peeling away under the apron at the trough. Noticed it at 59 plays. The machine is less than a month old.
Manufacture date of June 18th this year.
I've been working on Coffin Lock mods. If anyone is interested I'll start making them after the Chicago Expo.
Full info is on the Mod board (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-pro-skull-and-eyeball-coffin-mods#postbox)
I ordered a bunch for pickup at PBL's open house last week. Margaret contacted a few days before the event to tell me they hadn't received them yet. Mid November is now when they expect to have them restocked.
Quoted from Fytr:
Going from memory:
1. Remove two screws that hold the plate that holds the coil for the post in (not the coil stop).
2. Remove the plastic tipped post from the coil. The spring will come off the post as well.
3. Mount spring from plastic post to new metal one.
4. Insert metal post and spring into coil.
5. Screw the coil plate back into the base plate.
6. Check to see if the top of the metal post is level with the playfield when it's down. Adjust height as required with screw in guide at opposite end from the coil stop.
A picture would help but there's not much to it.
Thanks to everyone that helped me with the diverter post swap. I've added instructions with pictures here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diverter-post-replacement-for-metallica-and-others#post-3417137
Cheap and Easy snake fangs -- legos and earthquake putty.
This is not my idea, found it elsewhere on pinside months ago, but works great.
I've got over two months and 400+ plays on them with no issues.
I have a limited amount of extra parts if anyone is interested.
Second batch of Skulls & coffins are ready to ship. Thanks everyone.
Quoted from Gryszzz:
Ever since I put Titans on the 1st skill shot plunge started activating the sling instead of to the left flipper. Assuming it was wrong size sling rubbers. So I've been practicing my soft plunge yet it's still fuckin up my mojo. So now the right sling just snapped.
What eggzachary is the correct sling rubber size...2, 2.5, rubbers ? Not sure if I'll get silicone or rubber now but leaning toward rubbers.
Here's what I used on my MET Pro - fit's perfectly. OEM size is smaller. Titan forum recommended going up to this size:
Titan Competition Silicone Rings
- Ring Size: 2 1/2 Inch ID
- Ring Color: Translucent
Quoted from Vino:
Hey guys- going to start crazing my PREM up a bit for the holiday and finally changing some leds starting with a test of a few purple leds behind sparky. Just started... before I go deep, what did you go with on your machine for the best effect? Thx!
For my MET Pro - All comet LEDs (unless otherwise noted):
GI - frosted white.
Sparky area: frosted ice blue for above/behind sparky, the whole way across. On the backside of the van de Graaff generators, flashers replaced with comet matrix splitters with white directly against and behind the globes, all others ice blue flexible flashers away from the backside by ~1 inch).
4+1 SMD tower - Green for Snake
4+1 SMD tower - Blue for Piston Target
White/Blue/Red/Yellow(Orange) (HankScorpio's 3 strip led MOD) for End of the Line Cross/Electric Switch/Coffin/Snake
Frosted Red & Blue for Mystery scoop lights (crank it up / extra ball)
Fuel gauge (left to right) red, orange/amber, yellow (coin taker), white (stock), green
Cross inserts - warm white
Electric Switch inserts - ice blue
All others stock.
Quoted from Lermods:
All you need to do to Install the fangs is remove the screw in the back of the snake and remove the one on his head. Then, using a flat head screwdriver, insert it between the metal guide and the front of the snake, pry it up just enough to slide the fangs in being careful not to break anything. It's not ideal, but it works. I was contemplating taking the snake assembly apart, but it looked like a huge PIA. I literally just did this two weeks ago.
Or go the cheap and easy route. No screw removal / disassembly required.
Use some lego horns and earthquake putty or Sugru to attach them.
Approaching 700 plays and still attached.
Quoted from gweempose:
I don't think METs were ever really a problem, but even if they were, Stern seems to have finally gotten a handle on it. I have a GB premium that was built in October, and there is no ghosting at all.
If they have a fix, I'd expect to hear from them. Still waiting to Stern to take action on a ghosting and clear coat chipping of a MET Pro purchased in August.
Shameless self promotion.
I have a small number of skulls left and loosing access to the shop I use - so what I have on hand will be the only ones produced for a while.
Tied it to the coffin flasher so it lights when the coffin flasher lights in the middle of the playfield or any of the coffin lock lights.
Also have cheap snake fangs available.
Quoted from dnapac:
Got a question. I bought my Met Pro in August 2016. It has about 2500 plays...yes I love to play it. I've noticed some damage in the shooter lane from the ball being kicked out. Not on the rail side, but the opposite side in the lane itself. Can I do anything about this. I've never seen a cliffhanger/etc. for this area.
Here's a couple of pics with the Cliffy's installed. I also put mylar down on the shooter lane after my clear coat started peeling under the apron. June 2, 2016 playfield date.
Quoted from Lermods:
Guys, chill out, the clear is not lifting, it's a slight discoloration in the wood. Man, people trying to find fire where there's no smoke. I also looked very closely at every single insert, all perfect.
This is lifting...
Hey that's my machine! Yes, the MET is lifting under the apron. Looked exactly like the first picture here (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hey-stern-are-you-serious/page/75#post-3313793) on SMVE. The "discoloration" happens before it actually lifts/chips/cracks. The clear coat is starting to lift from the play field.
Unfortunately, you're recipient of a poor quality play field.
Here's my solution for the Pingraffix Snake obstructing the rollover target lights. Dirty Donny lit guitar picks.
Quoted from Dee-Bow:
The guitar pics look cool..the post with wire wrapped around it behind them...not so much! Great idea tho. Also would be cool to pay tribute to Burton &Newsted on them!
I'd love to get a complete set of DD monster style picks. Would use them for roll over lane lights as shown in the mod and on spinners
Thanks for all the suggestions. I re-routed the wiring. Looks much cleaner.
The Snake Mod²
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
Fully cliffy set including shooter lane protectors, mystery hole protector, and carbon fiber magnet protectors.
I've had both Cliffy and Mantis for the Mystery Hole. I prefer the Mantis version. (https://mantispinball.com/product/metallica-protector/)
I've had a couple of people PM me about the Dirty Donny Lit Picks for Rollover lanes.
I can start making sets for those that are interested. Thanks.
Welcome to the club. You may want to request a new inline cross stickers. It looks like your #1 are peeling off. Ouch.
Just finished up a batch of guitar pick lights so you can see the lit rollover lane lights blocked by the Pingraffix Snake mod.
The spiders match the playfield graphics but all look nice. If you like the googly eyes on your translight, there's one for you.
Quoted from earflaps:
Funny we're talking about a Pin-Wiki for mods...I just ordered some plastic eyeballs for my NIB MET. My plan is to light them and hook them into the upper lane changing lights. I've blocked my view with the 2D-Snake mod...bummer.
As an alternative, I was also considering to add some brighter bulbs to the lanes and attach some sort of funky mirror at the back somehow?? Something tasteful with some cool looking metallica insignia or skulls or something embedded on the mirror. Not sure exactly how yet but perhaps it could be accomplished with a water slide decal with some faint colouring??
I'm a little behind on this thread but here's what I have:
Quoted from Blackstorm:
If anyone is interested in a coffin mod this one looks cool as heck. I talked to zene10 and he said right now he isn't making them but there has been a few people wanting his mod and he said if he can get 10-15 people wanting it he will make them. He is starting a list so if you would like one please pm him and get on the list
I'm considering doing a limited run of the coffin/skull with lit eyes again. PM me if interested.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
Here is what I use. It works great, has a customizable setting to dim when a game has started, and is much more affordable if you just want white LEDs to replace the fluorescent tube:
Also use this. Works really well and takes the glare away. Also put one on SMVE. Makes a big difference
I’ve a MET pro and SMVE. Both are fun.
I’ve never made the wizard mode in SMVE (completed the mini wizard multiple times). Made it to EOL on MET a few times, but never completed. I’d call SMVE more difficult in that respect.
Kids are attracted to the comic book art of SMVE and are familiar with the characters from the animated shows. Sparky riding the lightning is a big hit with kids - which tends to be a spectator sport rather than when playing.
Multi ball modes have a higher frequency in SMVE ( black suit & doc ock) which is always exciting for casual & younger players.
SMVE is both a casual & approachable game. I consider MET more of a players’ game if that makes any sense. I’m not a huge fan of their music but the game is a great player.
Quoted from MustangPaul:
It's not a mater of the leds being lit it's a matter of the pf lighting up the off leds with pf reflected light, the leds are actually a frosted white color when off and they reflect the pf lights. Put a Bent Plastic guard on your led game and you'll see what I mean. I have one on my T3 with an led display and 3/4 of the display is truly black while the top 1/4 where the Bent Plastic doesn't block the lit pf is a gray color. I have Met with an lcd right next to T3 and Met is nice and black compared to T3 with no Bent Plastic on it. The games are right next to each other so it's easy to compare.
Glare guards from Comet in combination with the LED work amazingly well.
Quoted from delt31:
anyone know where i can buy a premium monsters translite?
Took about 9 months of searching for one, including trying distros and stern directly. Can’t get one unless you prove it’s for a replacement of a damaged one.
Found a guy on pinside who hated his premium and wanted a pro translite.
We swapped translites + cash going his way.
Spent the weekend putting fang kits together.
Back in stock. Made some kits over the weekend.
If you're tall, you don't need these.
If you're short, they help to see the roll-over lane lights at the top.
If you wear platform shoes, you're probably playing KISS, so ignore this.
Quoted from yzfguy:
I would love this for my premium. I can't wrap my head around why I can't get this to work. Shouldn't you be able to add a socket to the existing ones on the board?
I don’t have access to a premium, otherwise I might be able to figure this out.
I’ll see if I can get a clue from the manuals.
Quoted from John_I:
This is literally a matter of millimeters with one game varying slightly from the next. Last night I decided to look into this a lot more closely. I realized a fast traveling ball on my game must be hitting perfectly on center of the post as it is coming around the orbit in order to bounce back 90% of the time even with the metal post installed. I decided that I could move the post slightly by bending the up post coil bracket a little. With the playfield vertical, I bent the bracket downward a few degrees. This had the effect of moving the post a little bit toward the front of the playfield (without any sort of rubbing because the metal plunger is significantly thinner than the hole in the playfield). Now the ball hits a little off center towards the back side of the post and doesn't seem to bounce directly back as much. I played a few quick games and 5 out of 6 fast left orbits didn't bounce back. Time will tell but it looks like the little change helped.
So here is my working theory. The metal plunger helps because it is not quite as bouncy and more importantly it is a little thinner diameter. Being thinner makes it less likely to get a dead-on hit that bounces straight back. Some games (like mine) come from the factory with a combination of the back rail geometry and the coil bracket position that puts the post in the exact center of the ball path. Anything that can be done to change the path of the ball can possibly help give an off-center hit on the post. Maybe even playfield incline?
The steel ball colliding with a steel alloy post has a different coefficient of restitution than the steel ball colliding with a polymer post. The steel on steel collision would be closer to 0, an inelastic collision whereas the steel on polymer coefficient would be closer to the 1 end of the spectrum, an perfectly elastic response.
I don't know the alloy used in the metal post & pinball and I don't know the particular polymer used in the stock diverter post. I can't look up the material properites and calculate.
An educated guess is that the polymer most likely has material characteristics where it returns the energy of the collision elastically, causing the ball to rebound and return down the lane from where it came instead of absorbing the energy and dissipating it as heat.
The steel ball colliding with the steel post dissipates more energy through heat and sound than does the pinball collision with the polymer post. The slop of them metal post (looser fit) also helps reduce the energy of the strike.
Quoted from rad:
I have a problem with my MET pro - I am trying to update the code to the latest version but I am getting an error and I'd like to see if anybody else has seen this same error.
Here is the error -
"update failed" "Error Code: 1"
I have erased the thumb drive and downloaded the code to the drive again and then tried to install it again and I get the same error. I have searched the web and I haven't found any other people coming across Error Code 1. I will keep looking and reach out to Stern. If anybody has any experience with this, please let me know. Thank you.
Had this on SMVE a while back. Grabbed a new thumb drive, formatted it with a 3rd party utility (might have been Sandisk), and worked for me.
Quoted from Pinballerchef:
Just get the guitar pic MOD that zene10 makes...it looks great and works perfectly to see those upper lanes that the 3D snake MOD hides.
Back in stock
My 15 month old runs across the house to see the beginning of Sparky multiball. I’d never skip it.
Quoted from mcuzz:
A while back I ordered the 3D snake mod, and as someone else mentioned it blocks the 2 upper rollovers. So I decided to try this, these are found wherever you buy car accessories. I screwed a L bracket into the back of the plastic mirror and used the already existing screw to hold it in place. Also I highly recommend these for your car!
[quoted image][quoted image]
That's a great solution.
I also tried mirrors like Ghostbusters (Pro), but ultimately ended up making guitar pick lights.
I have these back in stock.
Also restocked cheap fangs.
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:
Could i maybe add a cable tie (cut off the excess) onto the side of the middle separating wire, that way the ball would hit a plastic, not metal, deadening the bounce maybe?
It happens so often...
Could put a screw through the playfield at the entrance to the outlane. Kill 2 birds - no more Borg bounce and get entered into worst hack thread.
Quoted from Graysonsdad:
The only insert you need is for the ciu mode tree. Everything else is normal lighting you can change on your own
Mezel just send pieces of film you can buy at an art supply store.
I can recommend the cemetery arch mod though. It was a late addition to my game and I really like it.(once i swapped the red light srrip for purple)
F you are going to do the 3d snake you will lose sight of the upper roll overs. $3 car mirrors from the dollar store
[quoted image][quoted image]
Mirror or Dirty Donny Guitar Pick lights (shameless self promotion).
I believe that some, if not all, of the wood backbox playfields have cross shape openings below the cross inserts rather than rectangular areas below the cross inserts.
Incorrectly stated wooden backbox. I'm referring to metal backbox and an early LED pro machine.
Quoted from j_m_:
not true. I have a monsters premium and all of the inserts are rectangular. there is a 3D printed mod to shield the additional light and only allow cross shaped light to illuminate the inserts
No, this is true. Some playfields do have cross shaped openings below the inserts from the factory.
I qualified the statement with “some”
I have a friend that owned an early first run pro. The wood beneath the cross inserts is, in fact, routed out in the shape of a cross and not a rectangular opening.
It was not a mod to the opening below the playfield.
I speculate that the manufacture of playfields changed at a later date due to cost, throughput or technical reasons.
Quoted from Sparky:
I would like to see pics of this along with production date. I'm not doubting you, but this is the first I've heard of this, and I've been actively involved in this thread since the announcement of the game. I would have thought it would have been brought up in the early discussions.
Past tense, owned. I’ll contact him and see if he has any pics from the underside.
Here’s the machine sale ad. Coffin inserts show no light bleed. They did not have the 3D printed mod. I saw the underside of the playfield when he owned it.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
I'm calling BS until you show one picture. It never happened, sorry dude.
My mistake, it was an early run metal backbox LED pro. I stand corrected.
Unfortunately, he no longer has the pictures from the sale, only what's archived.
At least one early run LED Metallica pro had cross inserts with the opening routed out in the shape of a cross, not the rectangular opening.
As for "...show one picture. It never happened...", it's a silly statement. I never saw a picture of a dinosaur or any of the original signers of the Declaration of Independence but I know all of them existed.
Call it a MET Easter Egg and let it go at that.
Quoted from Rickwh:
2013 pro wooden back box. My playfield has rectangle cross inserts.
Thanks x 3. 1- for your sparky protector and 2- for the validation.
Please post a picture.
3- for making a post based on fact and less of “not true based on my pin”
You get my vote for a respected poster and a positive contributor to this thread.
A six pack is waiting if we ever meet.
Quoted from Graysonsdad:
According to pinside there are over 1,700 Metallica machines out there. From 2013-2018 with not one reported variance in routing until now. It's not that you are a liar but people make mistakes and then stubbornly defend them for no good reason. In this generation of technology, cameras, and records, its not true unless there is evidence. Start photoshopping something or get your router out lol.
Yes, I'm agreeing I'm a liar. No further need to examine this topic. Carry on pinside.
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