oh, mannnn...I was psyched.
Quoted from Baiter:
Also I finally replaced my Newton block with a Newton ball... I see nothing but upside from that decision, looks and plays better. In fact now I wonder why Borg put the block on the Premium/LE considering that the Newton ball didn't appear to decrease the ball capture rate in the slightest.
I am still waiting for my game, and have a Newton ball waiting in my pile 'mods to install. Just wondering what exactly the benefits are. From what I gather, less ball abuse, but are there gameplay benefits?
I have never cared about the tournament mode, so I haven't checked for a button or in the settings yet. I will take a look tomorrow morning, perhaps a button is in the goodie bag but I would have expected to see it in the coinbox if it were included.
Anyone else blinded by the flashers behind the cross before the cross comes up? I had to make a little plexi shield with blue gel on it to tint/darken it or my eyes actually hurt after a few games
Butch..I figured mine out. It was the cliffy on the left.I had to slightly enlarge the hole to allow it to move over towards the ball trough a teeny bit. If you watch as the ball launches, it was sticking out just enough so that the ball rattles a little as it is launched. Since I moved it , works perfectly.
Still in the honeymoon phase at about a month.....600 games and my 10 year old put up 221mil tonight!
I don't believe the chair moves. Pretty sure it is a small coil in the back that moves sparky's torso. Maybe one of the wires came loose?
Quoted from jGraffix:
Snake mods just started shipping today. As for the tail we already have something special in the works. If all works out well you will have a 3D tail that you can attach at the end of the ramp or at the end of the wire frame. If you take a look at our posted photos you will notice that we custom painted our wire frame green/black to give the illusion that the entire wire frame is the snake too.
So it will be available separately? A tail sale, so to speak?
Ooooh..I am doing that!/ running out of ideas, and it will take them forever to find that!
I would love the "casket multiball" call out and "lock four balls" call out to be corrected.
Quoted from XpadreX:
Code, be it in pinballa or computer software, ifls by its very nature in a form of beta testing when exposed to the public. Expecting "finished" or "complete" code isn't realistic, in my opinion. Revisions, additions and corrections are part of the process- unless you prefer ample, basic code.
I like the green too. Guessing in real life it looks more like the first photo rather than shrek like in the second.
Quoted from kcZ:
I've been playing the hell out of my Prem since I unboxed it. I bet there are fewer than 10 plays total on my other games since unboxing a month ago. I'm starting to learn some of the rules and figure out some of the shots. Grand Champ score is just over 200 mil now but I often get a game less than 5 mil.
Question: Is there an actual lock light for the coffin lock? A voice says lock is lit but I don't see anything lit, of course I may be missing it too.
Same here! I played AFM for the first time in a month yesterday and it felt sooo weird. I wired an led inside the hammer connected to the coffin flashers...you can't miss it now !
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:
My MET Premium has about 100+ differences than stock, maybe I will make a video.
Some changes are internal including PCB boards, and items such as a real knocker installed in the lower cabinet.
There was already too much going in the backbox, and it is the new metal version. I am not drilling any more holes in it, like I had to do for my custom topper.
I felt like a psycho...within an hour of opening the box I was drilling holes for the topper
Since getting Met, the music has grown on me and it does fit the game. I am leaving mine as is.
Snake mod finally got here. Love it. Definitely cannot see the top rollover lane inserts, but I think it's a fair trade-off. I also took the heat gun route, and heated it to raise up in the back to meet the ramp.
And a fine hammer it is . I was considering painting that silver metal piece by the top fangs and the one under the bottom jaw black just to make them kinda disappear. Would regular model paint stick on that metal?
So if my game is from the new run (11/2015), it should have an updated board and this sparky lock up is a non issue? I have been so paranoid after reading about it.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:
It is not entirely related to the power driver board.
To my knowledge this problem has never been directly addressed by Stern.
I am unsure if a code change in software could be added to disengage this specific coil function either as I am not a programmer.
It has nothing to do with the step up voltage board either which remained unchanged from the original production run.
It is a game design issue because the Sparky relay coil is a low voltage activation, not high power.
Basically, the owner in Oregon replaced all the potentially damaged or damaged components, but nothing is preventing it from occurring again if he shuts the game down with the coin door open.
If you catch the mistake quickly you can avoid the "transistor burn out".
If Stern has decided to fix the problem, anyone feel to correct me as it going on 2+ years unresolved.
I have found the best way to avoid this particular problem when doing maintenance on the game is to use a SAM wireless remote control for functions, while allowing the coin door to remain CLOSED.
Keep in mind, I am conscience of high voltage functions of the game, and shut the game down when required.
You are conscious and aware of the problem, therefore you can avoid it.
But what if that day I'm unconscious?
Thanks, I will remain paranoid then....I always power that one down first, then open coin door, then close it up before powering on.
Didn't he quote you talking about someone else cutting? Lots of snow in Florida, must be cabin fever
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:
You want to use these:
Stern CABINET SHIELD HALF-MOON 2 PIECE KIT
They are powder coated black and completely match your rails, hinges, legs, and lockbar.
Or these, way cooler looking full siderail replacements...that don't require new screw holes in your cabinet.
I couldn't deal with mis-matched armor, or that horrible hammer. . I put them on to protect the side art, and in my opinion, there is no point in "protecting" the cabinet by putting screw holes into it.
Captive ball allows easy combo shot to the snake. I don't think it deflects up to sparky much, however.
Man...I got my monsters last November and in four months I have 1098 games played.
Put my extended sparky plastic on today . I thought I ordered the trough protector too, but got the Williams onem I didn't realize you had to order a game specific one....ahh stuck it in scared stiff, but I really wanted it for Met because if the magnets.
Quoted from tp:
What size polyurethane rings on slings? I bought original size 2 id and seem way to small. My slings engage about 1/10 as much as they use to and I'm afraid it's putting to much pressure on the posts. 2 1/2 id or maybe even bigger? Someone must have right size installed. Lmk thanks. BTW I did my machine in orange translucent and it's poppin!!
Pics or it didn't happen!
Quoted from ita47:
I bought the florescent green plastic protectors for the slings and outlanes from Pinbits. I love the look, but the problem is they are thicker than the regular plastic protectors and the lock nuts barely have any threads to hold them on. Is there a longer stud available with more threads?
I used a drill bit a tiny bit bigger than the stock holes in the slings and enlarged the stock sling hikes so those posts sit down on top of the protectors.
I just replaced the top post with the metal one. Holy cow, what a difference. Not a single ball has come back down the left side. I didn't realize how annoying it was until the fix, so much better!
It s the post that pops up in the center of the loop at the back of the playfield. It is plastic at the end on stock game and about 75% of my shots up the left orbit would bounce back down the left, rather than enter the pops and let you collect a rollover lamp. You replace it with metal, no more issue. two minute fix. Pinball life part number A-17986
Quoted from baloo70:
I also ordered the replacement post, but the metal post appears to be smaller in diameter. I was worried that the ball may now catch on the lip of the hole when the post is in the down position and chip the clear coat. Do you see any issues once it was installed? I was afraid to try it.
I have only had it on for a half hour . I wouldn't think that would be an issue, but never thought about that. The gameplay is improved, and personally it really wouldn't crush me if the clear coat chipped in a place that will never be visible.
It's not the pop bumpers you need, it's more chances at the rollover inserts above them to earn better mystery awards.
It is supposed to take a shot from the left orbit and direct it down to the pops. My stock plastic post almost always came back down the left. Metal replacement has not come back on the left yet.
Who wrote that up though? Might have just seemed that way to the author when the game was first released. It feels natural when it drops it into the pops too. The metal post still stops the flow, but seems like it is positioned on purpose to let the ball fall down to the rollovers. If the plastic post was meant to block the ball completely ,wouldn't it be positioned right in the middle so the ball can't "fall" down to the pops?
Quoted from TOK:
I don't think the post responds to hits on itself, it only goes up/down depending on what other switches were hit. If you look at where its at in the loop, its not possible for a left loop shot to go anywhere but back down the left lane when diverted by the post.
When people are describing an issue with the post, its when the right side bounces off it so hard that it goes back down the right side lane rather than being stopped and dropping through the rollovers back down to the pops.
This is the opposite of what is true on my game. With the metal post installed, he ball comes up the left orbit, stalls and then falls down into the pops.
I have the carbon fiber and no issues. It can be removed if needed, but no thickness problems for me.
Quoted from freezie:
anyone ever have a problem with the sparky magnet ? mine just hold the ball steady, then drops SDM every time . I do remember it wiggling the ball side to side before .
Did ya mess with the settings? I can't remember what it's called, but there is a setting for the amount of magnet ball influence.
I changed my post out to the metal one and only very very rarely get a bounce back now. Love it.
I didn't have to make any height adjustments.
Williams/Bally Bell Armature (Plunger) Assembly A-17986
Yes, that is the part.
Quoted from DeathHimself:
I have the loop post disabled, I feel it some ways it slows down the pace of the game. Is there any benefits to having it enabled at all?
Yes, it feeds the top lanes, which allow you to light those inserts and gain value in your mystery awards. I would never disable it.
The gels look cool on the fuel meter, but do
look a little dull on the mystery insert IMO
I have red gel in the fuel inserts too and although they dim them slightly, I like the look.
Anyone figure out a fix for this?....
My metprem gats a ball stuck occasionally on the right side if the cross. The cross will try to raise up on ball search, but it remains stuck in that little nook of the surrounding plastic. My concern is damage to the motor when the kids are playing and I'm not home, as the cross seems to strain and keep trying until the power is shut off.
I have been contemplating attaching a clear plastic to a nearby post, or a wire across that space to deflect the ball, but thought maybe someone had a neat solution
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:
You should be getting a magnet pulse as the ball reaches the cross area to grab the ball away towards the flippers. Test the functionality and response of the sensor.
Sorry, I should have clarified...it doesn't happen from a shot to the grave marker, it happens occasionally from an airball that lands on or near the cross and the wrap around plastic behind it. I do get the pulse you speak of, but the ball is on top of the right "arm" of the cross and held in that spot by the plastic.
Quoted from Pinballerchef:
I'm in the original METPRO owners club. I'll have to try the spring tension thing and maybe adding an extra washer to that part to see if I can get that drop target dialed in properly.
What tool do you need to break the seal on the sparky magnet bolt?? I need to raise it a bit so it's more level with the PF and it doesn't want to budge with just me and my flat head screw driver.
If I remember correctly, you have to loosen the large nut, then adjust with the screwdriver, then tighten the nut back up.
Quoted from WJxxxx:
Finally got round to fitting EL Paper to light up the cut-out side rails.
Have even got enough left over to backlight the apron where the score cards go, just need to design/create a template now.
That looks great! Would ya mind sharing where you got the el paper and how it is installed? I would love to do that.
So, I love the pingraffix snake ramp mod, but it's been bugging me that I have to too toe to see the rollover inserts and my son can't see them at all. No way am I losing the snake mod, so I rigged up a mirror to enable us to see the inserts. I think I like it here, it doesn't block anything, and it makes it nice and easy to see which inserts are lot. Just wondering if anyone has suggestions to make it look better, or has done this differently.
Quoted from tilted81:
Did you make the extra 3-d body ya got on there? Mirror is a good idea but it's lacking aesthetically. Maybee tie some lights into the lane indicator. I've got a skull where your mirror is. Right eye = right lane... Just throwing it out there..
3d body is from pingraffix. I agree with the mirror not looking great, got a pic of your skull? Sounds like a good idea.
Never had one break, but I have some paint worn off on the tombstone plastic from Rubbing on a post underneath.
Quoted from Arcade:
Just played a long game where I had a long Snake Multiball, Coffin Multiball, Sparky Multiball and made it to Fade to Black and chose For Whom the Bell Tolls.
I was reading the display as best I could and listening for anything new but heard and saw absolutely nothing new.
I was paying strict attention to these things listed in the code notes:
- Added speech to the "Enter Sandman" and the "For Whom The Bell Tolls"
- Added speech for chair guy fry ready (electric chair multiball).
- Added a speech call for snake lock lit.
And I just did not notice or hear anything.
But on the bright side I did get 4X playfield and got the hear the Jack F'in Pot callout that I love so much.
Wish I had time for more games. I know it is all in there but somehow I missed it all. lol
Same here...played a dozen or so games and heard no new call outs.
Quoted from j_m_:
which cliffys did you install? I put in both the mantis type and cliffy for the mystery hole, but could not get the shooter lane cliffys to work. they were sticking out to far and caused the ball to launch very strangely (like with side spin)
Mine did this too. I had to drill the hole in the protector to position it properly.
Quoted from DeathHimself:
That is true, as of right now it just rips right into Paradise City which is pretty cool as well. I was thinking along the lines when replacing it was for the song choice of launching a ball and One just starts off way too slow for that for the instant action we are into.
Paradise city, lol!
Quoted from markmon:
So will this update wipe out the serial number? Every time I do anything on colorDMD I always end up being down waiting on a key. The DRM is super annoying. But I guess it serves its purpose - piss off the paying customers. I'll probably just live with a few orange frames to avoid the potential DRM gotcha here.
I think only the first run or two of colordmd require a key. I remember having to do that on afm, the first game to get it, but not on any since then.
Quoted from Gryszzz:
Piston lane...the shot just above the left outlanes ? When you hit it the engine revs ? I figured it was a combination of fuel letters and that target. How in the holy hell can that shot even be made ? Shoot up the outlane ?! Thank ya Time Bandit !
Tip O' the right flipper will hit it, and if you hit it after a ramp while it is still flashing, you get double points for a while.
Quoted from jeffsarcade:
I see. Kind of a bummer. I actually liked the plain speaker panel with the "M" logo. The decal they put on there now looks to be a little too much from the pics I've seen. I'll have to see it in person when I go to ReplayFX next weekend.
Edit: I think the pro translite actually matches the new speaker panel decal (and the rest of the artwork) much better than the monsters translite. I might have to find the pro translite and switch them.
I disagree, but the good news is: I don't think you will have a problem finding someone to trade down
Quoted from Gryszzz:
Last night I only re-seated the front plug. Today lifted pf and did the other one and voila ! Back to awesome. Feel like a total noob, my 1st Stern, but that's ok. Noob droppin that hammer.
Thank yous guys for the help !
On my POTC, I put a drop of hot glue on each connector and plugged it in quick. It dried and held them together tight. If I ever need to disconnect, the hot glue peels right off.
Quoted from per3per3:
I have a MET Pro and find that the ball eject from the snake is inconsistent. Sometimes it perfectly fires into the middle of the left flipper, but sometime it fires a bit left and misses the flipper hitting the top of the sling. I've noticed that some misfires seem to ever so slightly graze the stand-up target left of right ramp, but then some don't!
I have tried to adjust the stand-up target as far right as possible, but I'm hoping someone can help me out.
Is there a way to adjust the positioning of the snake so I can point it a smidgen to the left? Or is there a way to adjust the mechanism and possibly bend it a little so it fires a little more to the left?
Before you try moving things...have you changed the coil power for that coil? In the menu, each feature coil setting can be changed, maybe that would send it to the desired spot on the left flipper.
Colordmd and shaker add a lot in my opinion. I also love the creeping death mod with pingraffix side blades and the snake fangs and tongue decal. I added an led inside the hammer that flashes with the insert, and it has a nice effect for a $5.00 mod.
Quoted from KornFreak28:
Is it hard to do?
Takes around 5 minutes. Easy bolt off he old, bolt on the new. I played about 10 games with the block and could already see how it gets dented up and figured that has got to be scratching up the ball and causing playfield wear. It plays great with the ball too.
Quoted from KornFreak28:
Ok thanks guys for your answers! I guess what I really want to know is: If both have coffin multiball, then the only difference between the 2 is that on the premium you can actually see the balls being locked up in the coffin? Is that it?
Not the only difference between the two games.
Differences are on a spreadsheet on the stern site.
Quoted from epthegeek:
I'm in the hammer hater crowd. It's a big ugly blob, IHMO. I got the sweet color GI upgrade from TimeBandit, so I don't have to be envious of that LE feature any more. I do really wish the spinners were actually supported in the code on the pro, though. I won't do the addition just to wire them to the pick targets, but I would in an instant if there was a setting/adjustment for "Have spinners" that would actually enable them. Stern should sell it as a kit! Oh well.
Well, I agree about the stock hammer.... But I love mine!
I watched videos of the creeping death mod and didn't care for it. I saw it live at Pintastic and bought it on the spot. It is so impressive in action. I thought those light bars looked out of place in the video, but when you see the effect, OMG. Love it.
Quoted from roddog:
So I just got home. I am sure it is not registering the shots. I qualified for both an extra ball and crank it up. When I shoot the pinball in there, it shoots back out regardless (sometimes during multiball a ball will get stuck in there). I lifted up the playfield but got really scared and had no idea what i was looking at.
Also, sometimes the plunger does not auto-plunge. I will do some research. Thanks for the help so far though!
What's your location? I'm sure one of us would be happy to help.
Quoted from roddog:
Hey all. I think I fixed it! Could not have done it with you all. I'm very proud of myself. I am not good with this kinda work. Thanks again!
PS. Is there an easy way to prop the playfield in an upwards position? It feels like there should be a rod similar to when you pop the hood of a car open. I could not find one though. I just had my girlfriend hold the thing up while i tweaked. She is built like a mule!
Pics or it didn't happen! . You either rest it on the service rails (long metal bars bent under there towards the front) or pull it out all the way and raise it up to rest against the backbox.
Quoted from j_m_:
a quick question for the group. will turning down the power to the eject coil for the snake mouth should eliminate all of the randomness that I'm currently experiencing? (premium machine)
I had to drop the entire mechanism and disassemble it to put in the mezel teeth. I made sure to "tweak" it facing as far right as it could be when I re-assembled it (because originally I was getting a lot of balls dumping directly between the flippers), but I'm still running into games where balls are ejected anywhere from: straight down the middle, anywhere on the left flipper, on the left sling to as far as into the left out lane after hopping over the left lane guide (trust me, that one blew my mind)
I love the fact that you can capture 2 balls during a multi-ball in its gullet for "snake ate your ball" if it's timed just right
You dropped the whole thing to install the teeth? Mine stayed on place during the operation, not even any anesthesia.
I think if I removed the sling spot lights, it would bug me that there is a visible mounting hole in the plastic where the post should be.
Aah. I was thinking the post was an extra hole. It really does look nice that way....hmmmmm
Let the haters hate. That is one of my favorite toppers. Second only toy other McKee topper, POTC. They both look awesome, I really don't care what anyone else thinks. If I had any art abilities, I would wire up an electrocution coil to the helmet on the topper to match the mod on sparky on the playfield.
Quoted from Gate-keeper:
When I shoot the piston target, it rolls back down and bounces off the top of the sling-shot and out the left out-lane. Its infuriating to say the least, especially when I'm in Crank it up and want to initiate double scoring. I finally make the shot only to have it tossed to the out-lane. Does any one else experience this on their machine? I've played other machines and it didn't ever seem to happen.
Is your game level from side to side?
Quoted from Rob_G:
It's good to buy a small level for checking front and back of playfield. It can be level at one end, but not at the other.
True, I have a bubble level that I use between the slings and then as high up as it will fit. I also have a bubble level app on my phone for games where the actual level won't fit well.
Quoted from Rickwh:
Hmm.. I have a bubble level and i just put it across the machine in two places.
On side rails resting on lock down bar
On side rails pushed up against the channel where the glass slides in at top.
The problem with that is you now have a game with level siderails, not necessarily a level playfield.
Quoted from per3per3:
Can someone provide a solid explanation of how the scoring works in Blackened mode? I've had a few games where I've gotten $125-$140 million in this mode, usually during a longer multiball, and I really don't know how the hell I did it!
Your game pays out cash?
Quoted from ninjabones:
Joined the club myself. Have a question. Prior owner installed unsightly flipper button protectors. It appears from taking measurements on the lollipop rails on my st premium that these rails would cover everything and even the screws seem to line up perfectly. Are these rails on my st premium the standard lollipop rails that are sold at pinballlife? Getting everything ready to send out for powder coat. Thanks.
I like these. I never put a screw in, I can't believe someone would drill holes in the game to "protect " it.
Quoted from BeaglePuss:
Those rails look great! Do you have a link to purchase?
I think this is where I got them. Looks like they may not be available now??
Quoted from PhillyArcade:
My Metallica has arrived safe and sound! Merry Christmas to me! This is what we work hard for. I am an official Metallica pro wooden backbox owner. What an awesome game! 600 plays on it since new. Looks like it's got most of the Cliffys' done. I guess the guy did LED's on this one. I had it set up played 2 games and installed the color DMD what a difference! I did one in my Monopoly and it was a huge difference but the Metallica color DMD really pops! I love it! I guess speakers and shaker motor will be first up for mods! Is there a color changing led flourcent tube for these? Be nice to just do something like a color changing tube for a quick and easy change. I know I want to get that out of there quick before it kills the translate and ribbon cables!
Sparky's head is turned to his right, should be staring at ya while you play. Nice game!
Quoted from PhillyArcade:
I think I have the Sparky plastic protector already? Here is a pic of my Sparky is that it on top of his feet? I have the Cliffy set just looks like I need the magnet protectors only. I'll have to see if I can just order those.
Nope, the extended protector actually makes a big difference. I have a clear one, because I like it to look like he is just sitting there, but two posts beneath yours is a busy fluorescent one that almost looks like shackles around his ankles.
Quoted from roddog:
I did flip dip switch 8. Still nothing. When I insert the USB stick, a green light lights up. This leads me to believe that the machine recognizes that there is indeed a USB in there. However, it never advances from this screen.
Side note: I can also not back up data to a USB. No USB functionality seems to work. I have tried multiple sticks as well.
I went thru hours of frustration trying to install my last colordmd. I was so set in my ways, I kept naming the file " colordmd.rom" , as I always have. It kept saying something like " no USB recognized", I tried several memory sticks and eventually learned that the newer chroma boards require something else at the end instead of "colordmd.rom". It has to be named Chroma.rom.First try after I changed it and it worked.
Quoted from dnapac:
Got a question. I bought my Met Pro in August 2016. It has about 2500 plays...yes I love to play it. I've noticed some damage in the shooter lane from the ball being kicked out. Not on the rail side, but the opposite side in the lane itself. Can I do anything about this. I've never seen a cliffhanger/etc. for this area.
Cliffy sells a shooter lane set
Guitar picks are a great idea! Thank you, I will be removing my mirror and doing this
I have and recommend the metal post, but that argument.... A g-spot is pretty tough to find, yet an integral part of the game
Quoted from Humph:
I installed the carbon ring Cliffy's on my MET Premium, but took them off after only a few plays due to airballs that may cause potential damage.
The carbon ring Cliffy's are thicker compared to vinyl or Mylar (or even ss) & were like a ski jump for the pinball at high speeds.
After removing Cliffy's, no more airballs.
I like & use a lot of other Cliffy protectors though - they are 1st class.