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Just getting these ready to fit to my Prem.
Not allowed to add the rest of the goodies as apparently these are Christmas presents.
That's fine by me, just means the dining room table will be covered in pinball parts not Christmas dinner come the 25th.

Mine didn't come with any green paper , the inserts I've added are actually gift bottle bags cut to shape.
Looked at EL, but to get the size needed was looking at 4 x 20x10cm pieces at £60each. As much as I love my Met I'm not putting that much into it.
Will see how it looks once they're fitted. Hopefully there'll be enough ambient light from my other machines to light them

J_m
Have you fitted the rails yet? I've just done it and the holes are smaller than on the original side rails meaning I can't use the original bolts on the top and bottom of the rails. Currently I've just got the screws holding them on, so they're not earthed⚠, I'd better source some narrower gauge bolts before playing too much!

We'll if we're going to name drop..

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Checkout my post in the "I've just bought a nib Stern what's the upsell" or words to that effect. I've posted a pic of the item I use, and also where you can buy them. 100% success rate.

I'd rather they fixed the problem with Sparky coil locking on and catching fire if the game is powered off with the coin door open, once it's turned back on again .
The game play code is as close to perfect as you can hope for. Sure we've all got ideas as to how it could become better, but there's nothing missing from making it a fantastic game to play.

I can't copy or quote as posting from my phone and my fingers are too fat, but there are other posts on here regarding the issue of Sparky smoking. Nothing to do with a transistor blowing or anything else like that.
I found the post on here just by searching Google for "Sparky Metallica Coil" after it happened. Pinside post is titled "Metallica sparky short warning"

The Pick Targets (depending on settings from menu)
Lets say hitting all 4 pick targets counts as 1 cycle.
Getting 2 cycles will light a band member, then you need 3 cycles, then 4, finally 5 cycles will start Blackened Mode.
The aim in Blackened is again complete a cycle and hit main shots for points. I've had a Blackened score of 265mil during a multiball.

On a further note, in multiball, 1 cycle of targets will open the snake and allow you to lock a ball in there, the 1st time you do this you get double scoring for 20secs, as well as an add a ball, and ball save. Subsequent cycles, just opens the snake to allow you to lock a ball for 20secs (no double scoring or add a ball). Still worth aiming for to safely 'store' a ball while still playing for multiball points.

With the hurry ups, I find the best strategy is to light the Grave marker first, as before that is solid, every hit on the drop targets will switch to that lane. I personally don't tray and stack the hurry ups as the effort required is not worth the payoff; 1m to 2.6m for 2 at once. I have had 3 at once but that was not by design.
Lighting all 5 starts Seek and Destroy. The aim is to hit the first shot you completed, followed by captive ball, followed by 2nd shot you completed, captive ball etc. The best I have achieved on this is about 80mil, again in a multiball. Before the CIU modes were added this was really the best strategy for big points - however.

A far bigger bonus of completing the shot is that each lit shot will award 1 Cross hit, 1 Sparky hit & 1 Snake hit towards the CIU mode when really big scores can be achieved, especially if you make use of the double playfied and complete the mode before cashing in the Jackpot.
The order I have found to be most profitable (and hence the order I play them in) is Fade to Black, Enter SandMan, Whom the Bell Tolls and finally Battery (mainly because the ball is out of control after hitting Sparky).
EOL I have only got to twice, with the best score being 64mil, was disappointed with that

Hope that makes a few things clearer for you, and anybody else. There are so many different scoring strategies as to make this such a great game it'll NEVER be leaving my collection.

A complete cycle is carried over, not part ones.

2+3+4+5=14

I got these green/yellow protectors and fitted them to both the slingshots and ball return on my Prem. IMHO the slingshots lit up that area too much and you lost the colour changing, they work great in the ball returns though and provide just enough light in that area without ruining the colour effects.

My Met is currently undergoing the final stages of its' refurb/modding so I can't take any pics yet but will be sure to do so once Sparky returns and it is all back together.

I may as well put something in here as it's a double posting.
Mods/additions I have made, or in the process of adding

Completed:
Invisiglass - 2nd best thing ever
Colour DMD - Best thing ever
Metallica cut out back box hinges
Metallica cut out / lollipop side rails (with glossy snake skin effect in cutouts)
Snake fangs
Snake tongue decal
Snake body plastic and ramp decal
Changed all rubbers to clear
Interactive colour speaker grill lights (Flashes green when snake lit, Blue for Sparky & Red for bumpers)
Green outlane protectors
Lit flipper buttons
Replaced cube with newton ball
Creeping Death Backbox decal
Creeping Death Pinblades
UV Flashers in front of Sparky

To come:
UV LED strip lighting down both internal sides and under backbox
Sparky custom paint incorporating UV paint and varnish
Snake head painted with UV paint
Colour LED lighting behind backbox to match the speakers

Possibly:
Following on from another posters suggestion, making a silhouette cutout to go behind the rear flashers so only the lightning strikes flash

Ideas wanted:
Looking for something to cover/replace/add to the clear plastic ball guard near the right hand ramp?

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is knowing it doesn't go in a fruit salad.

For 50c I'll have one ☺

Custom Sparky paint job, with and without uv light. Should be completed in the next week or so.

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Sparky finished. All metal work is UV reactive, as are his eyes, teeth and veins in his hands.
Can't wait to get it back fitted and running.

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I got mine from http://www.pinball.center/en/

So what order do you choose the CIU modes?

I always choose FTB, FWTBT, ES & then Battery if playing in comp as that seems to me to be the order for highest scoring first. I have chosen the points award a couple of times, once because I only need 4mil to beat player 1, and once on last ball because I had Coffin MB and Sparky MB ready to go and needed 50mil to beat player 1, I figured that would be a safer/higher scoring opportunity than a CIU mode, plus during the MB I would be working to the next CIU mode anyway.

Playing for fun it's a 50/50 split between FTB & ES as they just seem to have the best lighting effects and are most fun.

I've had invisiglass in my Met for over a year now. It really is a close call between that and a colour DMD as to which is the best.

Getting to the point, I simply clean mine with water and a microfibre cloth. It still looks as good as new. If you must use a branded cleaner just make sure it doesn't contain ammonia.

I know you say that budget is tight at the moment, but in the long term you'll probably save money as you'll end up installing mods to get your Pro more like a Prem anyway.

I'd definitely go Prem, as well as the obvious differences, like ball lock, hammer, snake jaw, cross etc. The modes are designed to fit the Prem better.

5 piston target collects (from hitting pop bumpers) also awards an extra ball, making 3 available during normal play. (Captive ball hits and combos being the other 2)

ANY mode will continue in CIU including Lady of Justice, Coffin Hurry ups, Fuel, Seek and Destroy, Blackened although the light show, music and DMD from CIU will override anything else going on so you may not realise. (The only reason I know this is true is because I have collected CIU jackpot quickly and they have still been running). You cannot however start one of these modes during CIU.

Referring back to a question about max playfield multipliers - the common consensus seemed to be 4x.

However, would it not be possible to get a 8x?
2x from Piston Target, 2x from Coffin MB snake lock & 2x from whatever MB snake lock you brought in after Coffin?

Theoretically it may be possible, but achieving it less so.

Next 'mod' I'd get is some invisiglass, or change the fluorescent tube to cut down the reflection.
I know that you probably turn the lights off when you play, but even so.

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Custom 3d printed.

I bought the cross set, and was so underwhelmed in the quality and look of them I had a friend print some for me.

I've since painted the crosses on the inside with glass paint (to colour match the insert or bulb they are closest to), and then coated the outside edges with clear UV reactive varnish.

I have UV flashers in Sparky, as well as a UV LED strip above him, so they really highlight the edges well.

As soon as I finish the last few I'll try posting a vid of them in action.

Likewise

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Finally got round to fitting EL Paper to light up the cut-out side rails.

Have even got enough left over to backlight the apron where the score cards go, just need to design/create a template now.

I got mine from www.elpanelandtape.co.uk/el-panel/
They ship worldwide, but I'm sure there must be somewhere local to any of you which could provide similar.

I bought 2 x A5 with 10 solder points (although you may be able to see that it is slightly too small)
A 12v inverter which will power between 150&600 cm2
and various lengths of cables and splitters (as I literally have nothing scrap at home to use)
Total cost £76, a little pricey but I was starting from nothing (and still have enough left over to light both apron cards)

Take a 12v feed into the inverter, then solder the feed out of the inverter onto one of the 10 solder points on the paper. Job done.

Some things to point out, you will have to go with solder points rather than connectors to get a smooth, low profile finish to be able to sit behind the side rail, unless you want to countersink a hole into the side of the cabinet. Even then it probably won't work as well.

The paper can be cut into any shape whatsoever, as long as you keep a solder point (obviously). Just use sharp scissors, rather than a scalpel blade to help prevent delamination.

Measure 2, 3 or 4 times if need be and make a template until you are absolutely positive you have the correct shape and size. You can't uncut something!

Make sure you get the correctly powered inverter to cope with any additions you may want to make in the future, as they have a very specific range (moreso than for EL wire)

It really is that simple, there are so many possibilities.

When the left orbit is hit, it should hit the up post and then trickle into the bumpers during standard play. Many people (myself included) have switched out the standard plastic post for a metal post (the details are in this thread somewhere), this solves the problem of the ball bouncing off the post and then coming back down the left orbit.

The post does not stop divert into the bumpers when:
a) the right ramp has been hit and the left orbit is lit for a combo
b) following the left orbit hit for a combo, as above, it remains down for another chance at a combo shot
c) during 'Justice for all'
d) during some CIU modes
e) when shot is made which lights the coffin hurry up.

I'm sure there are more, but that's all I can think of off the top of my head.

Just ordered mine (well 2 actually)

At the end of the day there are only so many configurations which can be achieved with a basic 2 flipper fan layout, so there are going to be similarities between lots of machines. I think Met's closer to IronMan, and MM is closer to AFM.

I also found these a bit too green - taking away from the lighting effects.

I've now only got them fitted to the ball guides and find them perfect.

I haven't got any other protectors, including the Sparky one.

I've still got the spare set from NIB, so if any do break I'll be quick to add protectors. Got a friend who can make any shape or size clear protectors, so have that as back up as well.

About average for completing it, you can really ramp up the score if you a) don't collect at earliest opportunity and b) really try and get the 2x playfield going, especially for the collect.

My best ever is 230mil

I got mine from Pinball.center.com

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/metallica/6530/side-rails-metallica-2-piece-set

But it looks like they are now sold out.

I also added EL paper behind so that they light up.

Cutout Backbox hinges are also available

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/metallica/6531/hinge-pivot-set-metallica-stern

These are available.

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http://elpanelandtape.co.uk/el-panel/

Definitely worth updating code.
Snake MB can now be worth lots of points,
CIU modes mystery awards actually help you complete and score big (350 mil on FWTBT)
No longer shouts casket MB (would be nice if it did actually say something though)
Fuel Lane awards blown pistons more readily, making it a strategy to get extra balls
CIU-Battery graphics and call outs changed

"Fixed a bug that was causing the device driver for the magnets to ignore the "disabled" adjustment." - I believe that this may be the REAL reason for the code update, so many issues with Sparky magnet locking on and causing damage that they had to do something about it. It would have been lame to have just released that as an update, it would also have been admitting fault in the first place.

At the end of the day, a high score is there to be beaten, if it bothers you that much you could always note down your current high score and then emulate it with the glass off once code is updated.

Has anyone else had any problems with updating their colour DMD?

I updated the game code to 1.7 - no problems except a few yellow screens due to code update.
Then uploaded the colorDMD file V 3.4 from the colorDMD website and now have lots more screens which are yellow, instead of coloured. Specifically the initial bonus screen and also the starting of Grave multiball, and the Grave Jackpot screens.

Memory stick has been used before and has been formatted correctly. It even shows I've uploaded V3.4.
At this rate I'd rather go back to V3.3 but don't see that as an option on the website

Any ideas?

Sorted?

Will the tombstones be getting added in a layer update?

I own a Met Prem - which I have modded a fair bit, colour display, snake decal/ramp lit speaker inserts, cut-out Metallica side rails (backlit with EL paper) etc. etc.

Played a Met Pro at a show the other day and there were a number of things that struck me.

Playfield is so much more open without the hammer, easier to line up shots for Sparky.

Other than that, the Prem is just so much more to my liking.
Really missed the spinners, the captive ball lock for coffin, the light show, but most of all did not know just how attached I had come to the colour display. Playing a machine with just orange dots seemed so old and boring.

I was considering swapping the colour display over to my WPT, but now know I'm going to have to buy another.

For those condiering whether to go for a Pro or Prem - it's got to be the Prem, if funds allow. You'll only end up spending the money long term trying to get it to look like a Prem anyway

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Wayne-Johns

An easy way to be in with a chance of getting some fantastic pinball mods for a fraction of the cost of normal.

I'd be grateful if you could take the time to visit, read and share the page - even if you don't intend to donate.

Thanks

PS Creeping death pinblades from Pingraffix on my Met Prem look fantastic, as does the snake /ramp mod.

I'm taking my Met Prem to NLP this weekend - It's had plenty put on it - tastefully of course.

Why not check it out if you're going

I use the screen protectors that are designed for mobile phones and tablets. No residue, completely clear, hard wearing and most importantly dirt cheap.
Have never had any of them start lifting, I've had to point out exactly where I've placed them to people as they just can't see it. I'd take a photo - but there's no point

The only real stack is Coffin Multiball into one of Snake, Cross or Sparky Multiball, then locking a ball in snake for double scoring. I prefer taking Snake in.
Everything else can be added on at anytime. Seek and Destroy, Fuel, Justice, Blackened, double scoring.

I've had a blackened score over 400 million by taking it into multiball.
I agree though, that the actual multiball rarely scores massive points, but it is still possible to get great scores from it. The main advantage of multiball is the progress towards CIU modes, in a relatively safe way.

It's a bugger to change though - the whole grave marker needs to come out. When I checked mine it had actually snapped in half! It obviously wasn't fitted properly, or had worked loose, and when the grave marker moved up and down it caught something.

This is the 16th post from you selling this mod, can we try and leave this thread ad free for a bit?

I've got UV flashers in mine - but then again I have had my Sparky painted with some UV paint so that when it flashes his teeth, eyes and veins all fluoresce - along with the helmet. Have also added a UV LED strip under the backbox which also fires at the same time

I've had the same issue - usually after transporting it.

It's the grey 'data' cable which is loose, the one with a modem/phone type connection. Either on the board under the playfield or in the backbox.
With mine I found it wasn't actually loose to the board, more that the wires were loose to the end connector on the wire.

Look at that first. Replace the cable if necessary and you'll be good to go

Did you get this resolved 100%?

I've been having a few more issues with mine recently and wonder whether I need to buy a new data cable

I had that previously - I found the problem to be a wire under the playfield had come out of the harness and the ball was resting against it when it was in the scoop. Check that first, before anything else.

Assuming it comes out after a ball search indicating the coil is fully functional, it is as Rob_G says, the switch is not registering with a ball resting on it.
However it could be that the switch is broken - check with your finger first, in switch test, that the switch is registering at all and not damaged, if it doesn't register at all check for lose wires and resolder as necessary, or replace switch.
If the switch does register with your finger then test with a ball to ensure the ball is pressing the switch down far enough - bend the switch arm slightly until it does register every time.

B*ll*ck$.
Moving machines to a charity show - one of the straps gave way.

Have started the strip down to get all the glass out. Have cleared the top of the playfield, now to start on the bottom

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http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/metallica/6530/side-rails-for-metallica-2-piece-set

Yes there'll be shipping, but it won't come to over the $300 for the ebay set

Had an amazing first ball on Met last night. Completed and cashed in 2 CIUs with 2x playfield running. Then started and completed Fade to Black, but got greedy relighting the 2x again and the bricked the scoop 3 times. Still got 76mil, but should have been worth over 200 mil if I'd have made it.

I can't ever see me selling this game - EVER!

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Just a bit over 1BIL, was only HS 1 on my machine. GC is 1.4 BIL

I had the same problem with my GI, strobing, completely off, weird colours.
I thought it was the data cable as well, because every time I reseated it the GI worked fine.
Turns out it was the 3pin connector right next to it(as stated above) which was the problem. It just so happened that as I was reseating the data cable I must have touched the 3pin and knocked it right.
The connector just needs reflowing to the board, as there is likely a dry joint.

It means that if you hit the captive ball straight away it will advance you 2 coffins towards lighting the insert you need for CIU.
It's can be turned off in the settings if you want.

Just not a viable/reliable strategy. The feed from the piston lane can often result in left outlane drain. If you're able to shoot that accurately that you're hitting both shots every time you're good enough to be hitting any shot on the table. I expect a Sparky MB to get me in the region of 20mil, but it's also a safe way to advance toward the CIU modes - where the REAL scores are to be had. Well over 200 mil each for FWTBT,ES & FTB.

This relies on too many separate things to make it anywhere near worth doing.
Physical coffin locks turned on.
No other player has balls locked.
Auto plunge after locks turned off.
Table set-up to make the dead bounce work. (plunger spring strength, pitch of table, rubbers on flippers, angle of flippers, etc. etc.)
None of which you have control of on location/in a comp.

PLUS if you are good enough to do everything else required to set it up - you're good enough to shoot the scoop the normal way.

If you want to set your machine up like that - that's your choice, but it's certainly not a strategy I'd think about using.

If the adjustment doesn't work. Rather than buy a new one, swap switches 1 & 4. The extra weight of the balls will most likely cause the stiff switch (previously switch 4 now switch 1) to register

I'm pretty certain this was fixed in the previous code update. Are you running the latest code?
I've had zero issues since then, having previously had the coil lock on and burn out

Which shot is lit for the Super skill shot is

The leftmost shot if in tournament play
a random shot if not in tournament play

Same for both Pro and Prem

There's your problem, and solution.

It's a changeable setting (can't remember where it is I've now sold mine). Also wasn't aware that this was a UK only option - are you sure about that?

ColorDMD didn't code the gravestones, just the crosses, on the release I downloaded for the Prem.

I raised it 2 years ago - post #7829 on here