Sydney, Oz
9 times out of ten the music at the end of the game doesn't play. The flashers cycle around ok but they do it in silence. Anyone else get this? Please help.
(Topic ID: 50762)
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Metallica (Premium)
Stern, 2013-
Metallica (Pro)
Stern, 2013
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6 months later
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6 months later
Just put an unconnected socket with a bulb in there. Bulbs are on and off all the time, you won't notice an off bulb, well, less than the gaping hole anyway I would think.
1 month later
Quoted from mario_1_up:And just a quick question. I seen awhile back a sound upgrade for it. What have you guys done to make it sound better? I fell this game needs to be cranked to max when you are playing.
Or put one of these in..
image.jpgQuoted from gjbwalker:Question: I just picked up a Pro Led and bought some mylar disks at Pinball Life to put over the magnets. Do most people cover the magnets or cut out around them?
cut out
Quoted from bushz:Do you believe the MET Pro is the one Stern game that is very close to the PREM and LE?
Met pro is one of the best pros. ST is the other one. There are plenty of things that you can list that are not in the pro, but as far as capturing the atmosphere and fun and playability, Met is one of the best.
Quoted from Aurich:In both cases you miss out on killer light shows of course.
Not for much longer. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:But the color changing inserts need to be white right, on the Pro they are colored.
Colour changing GI is coming, not inserts.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Oh that's right I forgot. It's been a while since you posted about that and I forgot.
You teasing me? 
lol, it's killing me too. Updates next week. But starting with ACDC.
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:While playing last night, the magnet for the coffin lock "glitched!" It went into the playfield leaving the hole open, then the ball rolllled by, and just went into the hole, then the hammer came down. Things were normal from there the rest of night. Real weird. I already had to replace the upgraded magnet board once from Stern.
I see this happen maybe once every 50 games or so, or less. I'm putting it down as a glitch. It doesn't seem to be getting any worse or damaging anything. Just something that happens now and then.
Quoted from bobbyt:Hey guys, I am using the cliffy magnet protectors and the one in front of sparky keeps peeling up, any ideas how to get it to stick down better and not mess up the playfield?
Make sure your magnet is raised so that it is flush with the ring once it is installed.
1 week later
Quoted from Redketchup:Very cool! Is something you will make available?
Yep. Parts are arriving all the time. I am going to do a run if there is enough interest. Pricing still not locked down but I am making sure it will be good value. Way cheaper than a Tron kit. There is more info here..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ramp-lighting-in-your-face-st-pro-brought-to-lifevideo
Quoted from Rickwh:This looks awesome! Looks like purple for the justice ramp mode. Does it do different colors for other modes green for snake, blue/white for sparky etc. how does it hook into game?
In this particular instance I install the same colour GI lamps that are in the premium. So you put in three strings of eight sockets, one blue, one red, one white. I then control them to mimic how those three coloured strings are driven in the premium. So for now the colouring will be the same as the premium. The justice ramp flash rate doesn't show at all on camera, and the colour balance is always difficult filming LEDs in a dark room. The justice ramp effect in reality is a very fast flash of everything. The factory GI is also controlled by my board. I will put some more details of how it works on its main thread.
Quoted from Tmezel:Would you guys be interested in translucent orange, red or yellow drop targets for the cemetery. Not sure if I would put decals on them yet. There would not be any extra lighting, just illuminated by natural lighting. This has been a long time coming.
Yes. I will then light them from underneath. I have been looking at your translucent drops and thinking about getting an RGB strip under there, and getting the drop to work a bit like a light pipe. The drops could then be individually colour changing. We should talk.
Progress with the colour GI code. Grave MB start added. Scoop added. Many, many, many bugs removed..lot's of conflicting turn on/turn off commands in the first pass. All the nuances of orbit handling ironed out, including rejects. And second video has proper LJ start (a bit buggy at the end).
There is a problem with one switch row being read properly at the MCU, so the captive ball doesn't read. I moved it's effect to the pick target closest.
And the PWM is still too jittery, so the scoop is a gradual string turn off rather than fade. Final version will be fade though. Moving on to CIU modes now.
Some gameplay
Proper LJ start
Quoted from northvibe:That is just the magnet that had a chunk come out? You can get new magnet cores....but ya maybe stern would cover it under warranty.
Zoom in. On the left of the magnet. It's a big chunk of paint off the PF.
Upcoming Met Pro colour GI kit installation prep course posted over here..
Quoted from RipleYYY:please dont kick my ass, but i'm decided in my head to sell MET+EATPM (cause needing euros) and grab KISS PREM...
The door is that way.. 
Quoted from nicoga3000:Anyone notice getting right ramp credit when you fudge the shot and hit the two pick targets? I need to check to make sure I'm not crazy, but I swear I have earned ramp credit during Lady Justice or in getting to Lady Justice by not actually making the ramp...
Yes
Quoted from MJW:Anybody ever lose all g.i.? Was playing a game and all g.i. Stopped working. All fuse lights on board in backbox are lit. Any ideas? Thanks
image.jpg
Stand up the playfield. Bottom right as you look at it,
Probably this connector right here..
It might just be the cable. If the GI control board loses contact with the CPU the GI stays in the last state it was in before it lost contact. Pulling that cable shouldn't automatically blank the GI. If the cable is dodgey and lost contact during a blackout moment then the lights would not come back on. likewise if you pull it while the lights are on they won't turn off when they are supposed to.
Quoted from 85vett:It's pretty cool but that is not like the Prem/LE. It's really not even that close. The prem/LE is a smooth change in brightness all the way down to dark (just the blue lights on low). This one has some going dark with the white still bright and then there are all the relay type flashing going on with the GI.
Easy fix. I have left the factory GI on during the first part of fade to black and turned it off gradually string by string. I don't have to do that. Factory GI can be turned off through the whole thing.
Quoted from 85vett:The prem/LE is a smooth change in brightness all the way down to dark (just the blue lights on low). This one has some going dark with the white still bright and then there are all the relay type flashing going on with the GI.
Sorry, I should have put the full description like I did in the main thread for this product. Here is the text from the other thread..
Quoted from TimeBandit:Here you go, Fade to Black. 80 switch hits to take it down to just blue running at 40%. The first 40 hits turn off the factory GI strings in this order.. backboard off first, then PF rear (top lanes and around there), then the left and right PF off together about midway through. The second half of the show is gradual pwm fade down of my three strings, stopping the blue fade at 40% and letting the red and white strings go to zero. There is a tiny bug at the end where the ball going into the scoop brings my strings out of the mode because FTB has actually been completed. If you go into the scoop before the mode is completed, it currently works correctly in that you don't exit the black/blue GI unless you choose to end and collect. This will of course be fixed
And here is the main product thread..
Quoted from metallik:Can it do the Blackened (four horsemen) GI effects? Those are awesome!
Yes it will.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Sparky:on my METLE for three years
??? 
1 month later
Quoted from knockerlover:Anyone ever have issues with the Mystery hole not kicking out reliably? It's most problematic when getting into one of the crank it up modes, about 25 seconds get drained off the clock then the game does a ball search and half the time kicks it into the drain.
Sounds like the switch is not being triggered consistently. Try bending the arm on the switch a little.
Classic scoop issue. Was giving the TronLE a workout last night and had 2x going and SOS lit. This issue had been on and off for a week or so now. Three fking hits to the scoop before it registered. Aaarrgghhhh. Got the sos but missed the 2x. Do you think I fixed it straight away THIS time??
I just sold my LE. 
Like parting with one of your own children. One of the most perfect modern Sterns. But keeping my pro which has got the LE GI light-show anyway. 
Quoted from Aurich:The red/blue/white GI though is the killer feature of the lighting. Changes the whole mood of the game since they're controlled separately. So turn the red off, you get a more blue playfield. Turn the white off and very slowly fade the blue, and you're play Fade to Black. When it all lights up red you might be in For Whom the Bell Tolls.
And all coming soon to a Met Pro near you. Sorry for the self promotion.
Quoted from Rickwh:It seems that of somone wanted to simulate the RGB lights of the prem with the pro they could drop the red out of the rgb and allow the insert to fill that in. Is that crazy? Anyone tried something like that?
Desired color red, then make the rgb white.
Desired color purple, then make the rgb bluish
Yes, I've looked at this. The red of the insert is way too strong. A blue LED under it doesn't make it purple at all unfortunately. It's just a dimmer red.
Quoted from Baiter:How much does the newton assembly decrease the ball landing on the magnet for capture
It doesn't. There is only upside to installing the ball. One of the great factory mysteries that stupid block.
Quoted from knockerlover:Has anyone looked into the possibility of adding the rising grave marker from the premium/LE's into a pro? Marco now has the whole unit in stock, I'd be curious to know if there is a way to make it work or if someone knows what the limitations are. i.e. - wiring, code, etc.
The Total Lightshow board will trigger it. I already have it coded for the start of grave MB, and there is a spare power output on the board. The board won't be able to supply current to drive the motor though, just switch it.
1 month later
Quoted from NightTrain:Well I FINALLY made it to End of the Line. I failed miserably once I got there. Can someone tell me what you're supposed to do when you get there?! There were no instructions on the DMD. Just looked like you were driving a car with a view of the rear view mirror. Damn my butt hole was puckered when shooting for that last scoop shot to get to EOL.
image.jpg
Hit all the shots, then one will be lit for jackpot and give you another ball in play if you hit it. Shots will then all relight. Seems to go on ad infinitum.
It throws out heaps of points. Feels a bit more like victory laps to me, rather than a big climactic wizard mode like Portal.
1 week later
Quoted from zaterminator:Sparky issue----On my MT, the sensor near Sparky's toes doesn't seem to be working. You have to completely hit the target between his legs to get credit for a chair hit. Anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it? I wasn't sure if I may have accidentally changed a setting or just have a sensor not working. Thanks.
First thing, just make sure the opto is lined up properly on both sides so that the red light emitted on one side is visible to the sensor on the other side. Check that the right hand side component is emitting a constant red light.
Then go underneath and make sure the opto board looks like this with the LEDs on and all the cables connected firmly.
Quoted from zaterminator:Checked, all the connections are seated well. Here is a pic of the board. Right side on sparky up top has no light, so it appears that is my problem. The gravemarker IR is fine, just Sparky is out.
image.jpg
The specific connector on the control board there that you are interested in is J1. Pull it off completely and reseat it. The LED indicator IS on, so at first look it looks like it is seated ok, but that LED will stay on faintly even if the connector is removed, so it's worth a quick check.
If that's all good, swap J1 and J2, and the left opto will become the emitter. It does work that way around. This will tell you whether the right opto is completely blown, or just won't emit.
If the left one doesn't light up when swapped, you may have an issue with the controller, if the switch doesn't register but the left lights up then I'd say we have narrowed it down to replacing a bad opto on the right.
Quoted from Meph:Anyone have a good way to stop the 2 lower spotlights from falling out periodically? I have a cointaker shaker installed and those 2 spotlights will wiggle loose and fall out every couple weeks. Of course the obvious is to take the glass off and make sure they are in good regularly but I am just wondering if anyone has a better way to keep them in?
I have always noticed it immediately when it happens, stop playing and fix it. My fear is one of my kids or wife wont notice and will keep playing, potentially causing damage to the playfield.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-tips-to-get-led-bulbs-to-stay-in#post-2681226
2 weeks later
Quoted from jkashani:How on earth do you eject the balls so you can work on the game with the play-field up? I cant find it on any of the menus. Thanks
DIAG..across 5 times to CLR.
Or just use your finger to flick the trough eject plunger from underneath.
2 weeks later
I'm installing the premium rising cross mechanism in my pro. I will be driving it from the same board that I am driving the colour GI. Details over here..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ramp-lighting-in-your-face-st-pro-brought-to-lifevideo/page/14#post-2758897
1 week later
I love Metallica. And it's weird. This is my post on the Aussie forums yesterday..
I have played more Metallica than anyone. I guarantee it. I have gone glass-off through every mode dozens and dozens of times. Building the light mod I have had to explore every tiny piece of behaviour of that damn machine and code. During real play testing I had rubber bands on the outlanes, max ball save and games set to ten-ball. I sold my LE and thought that once the light mod was complete I would take my pro and sell it to the first vagrant I saw at Bondi Junction (Sydney suburb) for 10 bucks.
Thing is.. I STILL LOVE IT! I don't know why but I can still walk up to it and have a blast playing it, (The new lightshow helps of course ) even though it should be dead to me by now. Who knows how sometimes they just capture lightning in a bottle, but with Met something is very, very good about it.
1 week later
This is now officially a Metallica mod.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-lightshow-powerful-interactive-lighting
1 week later
Quoted from jkashani:How did you do that? Nice Work!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-lightshow-powerful-interactive-lighting
Quoted from Meph:So those of us that have bought the Total Lightshow already, will this just be an addon to that?
I will be releasing the code update to drive it onto the website shortly after a bit more testing. You just need to source the mech and a 12v step up converter.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:That rising cross is awesome, nice job! Do you have to have the interactive light show mod to have this mod? Would be great if you could just do the rising cross independently...
I'm sure someone could find another way to drive it. But you have to read the limit switches to control it properly. My board could be installed without the lights of course (it would be less expensive than the total kit without a bunch of cables and sockets, but not by a huge margin), but that would be way overkill to just get the cross. The cross mech itself is around $250 from distros.
1 week later
Quoted from daveispinball:Thanks. Just went with 1 but it still sucks. I want it to rock and be at least as loud as the call outs. Louder would be better. Call outs are set at default so it's not like I'm trying to overcome a really loud custom setting.
Move the call out setting to a higher number so that they are quieter. And take the music one to negative.
I have found sometimes with these attenuation settings away from zero, that the game end music may not play.
1 week later
Quoted from swampfire:Picked up this snake mod for $4 at a roadside cafe. If you squeeze him, his eyeballs bug out. I wish I'd bought all they had, little baby snakes...
image.jpg
Pleeeease put it somewhere where a coil squeezes it and makes the eyes bug out!!
1 week later
Quoted from Pinballerchef:but heck a MOD to keep another MOD.....why not!!
Haha. The pingraffix Met snake mod toplane rollover light mod. Love it! I am going to add that functionality into Total Lightshow. It will be the first use of the addressable LED outputs.
Quoted from Rensh:Some gameplay showing smartdmd and GI theater mod
» YouTube video
Rensh, your game looks spectacular!
1 week later
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:. I know some people have changed that to a metal post but that doesn't seem like the corect fix as metal to metal would be even more transfer of energy.
It is the correct fix and works really well. 99% reduction in rejects.
1 month later
Quoted from gweempose:My pro should be ready sometime in March, so I'm ready to start assembling mods for it. Here's what I'm thinking ...
Cliffy protectors
Snake fangs and tongue decal
Coffin decal
Plastic protectors (unsure of which ones to get)
Speaker lights with acrylic inserts
Lighted flipper buttons
Button-guard side rails
Playfield support brackets
Sparky EL wire mod
Target splints
Mirror blades
Total Lightshow mod
Backbox light kit (who makes the best one?)
Color DMD
Titan competiton silicone rings
Is there anything important that I'm missing? I can't believe how quickly the mods add up on this game!
Hooked spinners?
Quoted from Jaybird815:I was just reading up on these, are they fully interactive? Points, drums etc.
To sum up, they hook up to the pick targets, so you get the drum sound effect, but you also collect pick target hits when you hit the spinners. There has been a fair amount of discussion on that point. Some like it, some don't.
The switch matrix will recognise the raw switch hit of the installed spinners, so I am working hard to get my Total Lightshow board to talk to the CPU, with the aim of calling the sound bite for the drum when the spinners are hit. So hopefully, in the future, you will be able to connect the Hooked spinners back through my board and have at least the right sound and some lighting effects, without collecting the pick target scoring. Of course, there will be no scoring at all, but I believe for half of the players that is preferrable to the erroneous pick target collection.
Quoted from gweempose:Can you elaborate on this. I'm not very familiar with the rules.
Quoted from Arcade:Sure.
Fade to Black is one of the four options in Crank it Up.
To complete the mode and turn off all the games GI llights you need to complete a certain number of switch hits.
Not sure how many, but it is a lot.
The Spinners allow for tons of switch hits at once. The only thing comparable on the Pro would be the pop bumpers.
It takes a hell of a lot more time in the pops then it does for just a few spinner rips to achieve the end of the mode.
It is totally cool to play the game in the dark since you have "Faded To Black".
It's certainly a long wait on the pro to get the PF to black out in Fade to Black. The main reason it seems to go on for ever is that there is no gradual fade that you get on the Premium. All of a sudden, the GI blacks out, whereas on the premium you've had an entertaining gradual fade out in your GI as you collect switch hits. You get this gradual fade on the pro with Total Lightshow. I have the current code fading over an accumulation of 80 switch hits. It seems to be acceptable to users. A couple of tours through the pops and you get there in a reasonable time.
Quoted from TOK:If you look at where its at in the loop, its not possible for a left loop shot to go anywhere but back down the left lane when diverted by the post.
It goes into the pops
Quoted from TOK:When people are describing an issue with the post, its when the right side bounces off it so hard that it goes back down the right side lane rather than being stopped and dropping through the rollovers back down to the pops.
Nope, left. Well, both really, but left is a massive problem.
Quoted from Sparky:But what I'm saying is, it's better to have it reject to the left orbit instead of the pops, but only if it awards the lit inserts toward CIU a second time. No one has confirmed this in recent posts, and I'm not at home right now to check. Why replace it if rejects are better?
There is a time lockout on rejects paying the second hit. you can get a second pay if the reject is as slow as physics will allow. The exact time is somewhere between 2-3 seconds.
Quoted from Roostking:Me too. I've tried to get clarification, but I don't see how the ball can get to the bumpers from the left orbit with the post up.
The post is on a timer linked to the orbit switch. The post is up long enough to stop the ball, then drops, allowing gravity to take over and pull the ball down the remaining part of the orbit and into the pops. Works like this on dozens of different machines.
1 week later
Quoted from WJxxxx:I simply clean mine with water and a microfibre cloth.
+1. works a treat. tiny amount of spray mist to just help dislodge beer and spit particles. Most of the time I use a dry microfibre..exactly the same as cleaning your eyeglasses.
Quoted from Vino:Any of you Metheads getting an itch to sell into a GB - is it still keeping your interest? Totally different games. Anyone gonna scratch? I'm getting the bug.
I would do something crazy like have both. My Met's sitting their sayin, "I ain't fraid o' no ghosts."
1 week later
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:I'm looking at swapping out the square block on my monsters for the captive ball. For those that have done this, is it a two piece assembly that is needed (Newton ball, guard piece)? Where did people have success in sourcing the parts; Pbl, Marco, etc...
Just trying to make sure I get all the stuff at one time and not on three separate orders!
Thanks.
One piece.
Quoted from Mando:Can someone explain blackened mode
To me ? I got it today and stacker it with seek and destroy and then was looking at the DMD since I had never seen it and drained
When Blackened is running, hit each pick target to collect a band member/blackened jackpot. Once four are collected, one of the shots will be lit for Blackened super jackpot. Repeat. There is a timer running as well, which gets reset when you hit a pick target.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Let Stern know, maybe there is still time to change the same design on GB LE before they start being built next month.
GB is Spike
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:SAM System games, this is a MET thread.
Unless Stern did something I am completely unaware recently on the production line.
You brought up GB
Quoted from tdiddy:Can someone point me in the right direction on how to remove sparky?
1 week later
Quoted from MustangPaul:You did it again my friend, that is over the top cool. How much would that set me back?
Just have to get the lower casing quoted. Only a 3D printed proto at the moment. And will be two variants. Left one is plug and play driving its own lights. Right one has lights being driven by Total Lightshow. A pair will be driven by a shared servo driver.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I don't have Total Lightshow so would 2 work on their own? I think I would be interested in a pair then.
Yes, a pair will work without the big board. I have to step the brightness up a bit though. The output is only 4.7v. It needs to be 6.
Quoted from MustangPaul:To bad the bulbs don't generate a beam like real Veri lights
If only we could get fog in there..and lasers.
Quoted from mtp78:Newbie here, Getting my pro next week. Are the factory led's any good in this game? Or do they need some changes so the game is properly lit ?
They are great.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Could you make them go around in circles too? and could you make the speed they move a mix up of slow and fast and stationary instead of always fast? Always moving fast gets old fast....for me anyway.
All choreography is totally arbitrary. These runs are mainly for fatigue testing. Seeing what breaks. All movement is customisable. The only thing you can't do is complete horizontal circles because of the wires.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I see. I didn't mean horizontal circles.
They can go in a circle as from the player's point of view. So trace out a visual circle, as if you were looking at a rotating fan blade, yes.
The version driven by Total Lightshow will have different choreography for different modes, and have specific movements for events in the game. And the lights will be able to follow the ball.
Quoted from Vino:Didn't think I ever would entertain switching out stock speakers but doesn't cut it long term. Some went external sub and some just appear to have done internal.
A few options and opinions?
Sub first before back box speakers. I gave up changing back box speakers a long time ago. No real pickup. Sub all the way though.
Quoted from chubtoad13:Is the pro model supposed to have a flashing light on the grave marker? I believe it's supposed to light when multiball is ready.
I don't see a flasher in that area, but the flasher is in the menu and I watched a video where it happened on someone else's pro.
Yes. The flasher is inside the cross.
3 weeks later
Anyone who has the Total Lightshow mod on their pro can take the power for the LED strips that you might mount in the drain back to the relevant colour output on the main board and drive it in sync with the rest of the GI.
Quoted from mrgregb123:I was thinking of just using alligator clips attached to one of the colored string's bulbs close by, but you're saying to wire it all the way back to your board?
You can clip it, but just check the polarity. I only suggest running it back to the board so you know your gnd is going into gnd. And also to protect the board from damage if you short out the clips. If your strip won't be damaged by going in backwards then no biggy, just clip it one way, if it doesn't work, swap clips around. Just make sure the clips are completely insulated. If they touch, a fet blows.
Met Pro GI Theatre code update..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/major-code-update-total-lightshow-metallica-pro-gi-theatre-201#post-3154562
I don't want to overly pump my stuff, but only because I've just dropped a major code update I will put one last plug for my Metallica light kit here. There may be a bunch of Met Pro owners who don't follow the modding threads.
Put the Premium/LE (plus extras) GI tri-colour lightshow in your Met Pro with Total Lightshow. All the GI colour effects are here, as closely matched as the human eye (well, my eyes anyway) can tell to the factory Premium show.
Reasonably short video showing the stacking of a lot of the effects..
Very long video of a ten-ball game getting to the effects in real gameplay..
There are many more videos and product information in this thread..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ramp-lighting-in-your-face-st-pro-brought-to-lifevideo
And a bit about the recent code update in this thread..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/major-code-update-total-lightshow-metallica-pro-gi-theatre-201
Purchase at www.redshiftled.com.au
Quoted from newpinbin:How do you display instant info during gameplay?
Hold a flipper in until it is displayed.
1 month later
Quoted from finnflash:Does anyone have an issue of the ball getting stuck in the left orbit lane? If the ball is moving slow, it gets stuck.
You just need to bend the wire guide a little. It should not be getting stuck.
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:Honestly I cannot tell the difference between sterns current balls and the PBL shiny ones. Before my first ball launch I held brand new PBL balls side by side with the stock stern balls that came with my MET pro led (5 days ago) and me and my distributor who delivered and set the game up could not tell a difference. I played with the stern balls for a couple days then switched to the PBL balls. IMO no difference at all. Seems as though stern ships with better balls now??? I don't know. Just an observation.
I am seeing this also. Last two NIBs much better factory balls.
Quoted from konghusker:What are thoughts on the new code so far? Is it worth updating and losing high scores on the last code I thought was already great?
Don't bother. Updating this code is an exercise in score resetting.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:A bad-ass pinball (METALLICA), next to a mellow-sissy pinball (woz)... Just don't fit!
Fits ok here. Metallica says all pinball is good. All machines are its brother.
Quoted from Gryszzz:And can someone tell me how to collect fuel ?
Each time you complete the left fuel bank the centre fuel gauge will advance. Once it is full and you complete the left bank again Fuel will start. Then hit the left bank targets to light the fuel JP, then hit the piston lane stand up to collect JP. While Fuel is running the centre gauge will run down. Hitting the left bank keeps it topped up.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:New owner of a Premium here, first Stern and couldn't be more thrilled!!
One question - is the LED GI supposed to constantly pulse very rapidly? It seems like that cAnt be right. It's sort of disorienting. Is there a problem here or some way to stop all of the GI from flickering?
No it's not right. There's a small auxilliary board in the backbox where you can reseat the connector that usually fixes it. I don't have my LE anymore so no pic.
Or it's this bridge if it's the same as AC/DC premium, which is a similar GI system. This pic courtesy of Smassa in an AC/DC thread, answering the same question
Quoted from Gryszzz:I turn it on before I feed my kids breakfast.
I turn it on and make my kids bring me breakfast.
1 week later
Quoted from Delta9:Where did u get that apron timebandit
Made it. 
Coming soon to redshiftLED. These are pretty darn nice in the flesh, but this version is NOT rated for playfield lift. There will be a premium, built-like-a-tank version, that will be more expensive and available in fewer colours, but totally capable of replacing factory aprons in terms of strength when used as a playfield lifting handle.
Quoted from Rickwh:Ive never fully trusted my met pro stock plastic apron for playfield lifting. So i reach back under and lift on the top of the ball trough metal to get the playfield started untill i can get my other hand under .
I'm a through-the-coin-door and lift the pegs or rails type of guy myself.
Quoted from MustangPaul:especially if you have colors available
Like this?
Quoted from MustangPaul:IF the price is right that is.
Like, under $75?
I don't want to derail the Met thread. I'll start another soon dedicated to the aprons.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coloured-and-tinted-aprons#post-3271656
3 weeks later
Quoted from epthegeek:I do really wish the spinners were actually supported in the code on the pro, though. I won't do the addition just to wire them to the pick targets, but I would in an instant if there was a setting/adjustment for "Have spinners"
Total Lightshow support for driving the sound call is almost here. No scoring, but better than wrong scoring off the pick targets.
Quoted from BOBCADE:Sweet, I'm in. Didn't you tune the Fade to Black dimming to account for spinner hits? Would this still apply? Timing with completion of Fade to Black may be difficult.
I will probably just leave the spinners out of the FtB switch count. A hit to the spinners will most likely land you in the pops anyway, which is your target for quick switch collects now, so shot strategy remains consistent. It would be like handicapping a horse race, and would end up with the real strategy being to hit the orbit 4-5 times to get the count up, whether it be for pops or spinner hits.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Can anybody tell me what is the big deal with the spinners? Is it that big of an issue for PRO owners?
It's not a "big" deal. It's just a moderate deal. Who doesn't love a spinner? And it always seemed such a cheap way to gimp a pro. Sure, take out the moving cross, snake jaw, hammer and light show, but come on..spinners?
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:Spinners make a big difference in being able to get enough switch hits to achieve a switch bonus such as in the Fade To Black CIU.
Pretty sure the pro code is tuned differently to allow for the missing spinners.
Quoted from BOBCADE:TimeBandits Totallightshow and the Creeping Death blades with lighting are sick. I thought I'd hate the light bars but after putting on they do not block anything and the lightshow is astounding.
Thanks for talking up the Lightshow mbobcade.
I think the greatest thing about the Metallica machine has got to be the people who play it. Seriously, the pro/premium debate goes on and on unresolved, but it never rises above a playful, respectful banter. The argument could easily get heated because the guys on each side really love their choice. But through it all runs the respect that this could be one of the greatest machines ever, whichever model you have, and everyone respects everyone else just for having one kick ass machine.
But the pro is better. Hammer sucks balls.
Quoted from roddog:So I just got home. I am sure it is not registering the shots. I qualified for both an extra ball and crank it up. When I shoot the pinball in there, it shoots back out regardless (sometimes during multiball a ball will get stuck in there). I lifted up the playfield but got really scared and had no idea what i was looking at.
Also, sometimes the plunger does not auto-plunge. I will do some research. Thanks for the help so far though!
Just bend the arm on the switch inwards a bit inside the scoop.
2 weeks later
Quoted from BOBCADE:Interesting on removing the sling spotlights, thinking that one over.
Sheesh. And all that work I put in to make them fade. 
3 weeks later
Quoted from BOBCADE:What does the metal post resolve? I rarely if ever have a ball hit the post and not drop into the pops after.
You are one of the lucky ones. Most plastic posts cause greater than 50% rejects, mostly at the left orbit. Changed my LE to metal, rejects went to zero. My pro still has stock plastic, rejects all the fricken time.
2 weeks later
Quoted from delt31:EDIT - also noticed that I can allow the ball to go across the orbit to the other side by holding left flipper at plunge but I can figure out how to do it during play. The shot keeps on getting blocked from proceeding
You can't do it during general play. The orbit block is designed to send the ball into the pops. You can permanently disable the orbit post in the settings.
Quoted from per3per3:recently had one of the specialty LEDs from the backbox pop off
Do you have an after market back box lighting kit? Can you post a pic of the problem area?
Quoted from per3per3:Any ideas? I would assume that these six bulbs are not associated with a dedicated fuse.
Yes, they are. F3 on your driver board.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Thanks TB. Are you a god?
I've blown enough of those fuses. Haha.
1 week later
Quoted from Frax:I had someone try and tell me off the other day, so I'm coming to you, damned souls of metal...
There is an option in the Pro code, both 1.7 and the last release for "GI Power"....on my game it does absolutely NOTHING. Goes from 0-100 50 default....but none of it makes a whit of difference that I can tell. So...does anyone know why that's there? Does it do anything at ALL? I don't want to decry the guy a total idiot.....but he posted a video of his game with it working......EXCEPT THAT HIS IS A PREMIUM OR LE, IT HAD SPINNERS AND THE RISING CROSS....after I had already made that point. ~_~;;;
IF I'm wrong, it would be good to know what it does or how to get it to actually work?
Prem/LE only. Totally different GI system. Pro is just hardwired 6.3v on/off circuit.
1 month later
Quoted from SunKing:I've got a strange problem with my MET PREM - hopefully someone can help. At default setings, my GI will start to strobe. I mean, like a seriously strong strobe light. It got so bad, it was unplayable. Thankfully, there is a GI adjustment. When I dim the GI slightly, the strobing completely stops.
...any ideas what could be causing this?
The data cable. Stern will replace it. You can try reseating it first, but a few have needed to be replaced. The way the GI works, it has both power and data. If you pull the data cable, for example, the GI remains in its last updated state, but does not go out.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:The GI on a Pro is not dimmable, right?
Correct.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:What does everyone think of the older METs with the wood backbox. Any differences besides LED lights and backbox?
I like 'em. Solid as a rock. The older ones don't have the termination resistor boards on the lamp matrix headers so make sure you put good quality non ghosting leds in if you get one. They also have the older trough opto connector which was first upgraded on IMVE. This means you will get the odd ball-end-midball issue which requires a quick reseat of that connector.
Quoted from Roostking:Is this when in mid game, it just quits and drains? Is the connector you are talking about the white one that is in front of the trough? I reseat that and it works, but sometimes only for a minute. I dont understand why its coming off so easily.
Yep, that's the one. Got a shaker?
I think Centerflank came up with the idea of putting a zip tie vertically around it. Or if you want to do it properly recrimp it with a trifurcon connector.
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Was at my buddies place last night, he has ACDC and MET. I noticed that the songs on ACDC were very predominant when playing (you could hear the music more over any other sounds such as callouts). On the MET, it's opposite. Songs seem very low compared to everything else going on. I tried playing with his settings but didn't find much of a difference overall.
What settings would most recommend so that the music stands out more?
The values of these settings are counterintuitive. Higher numbers means quieter. (Attenuate = reduce)
IMG20170115105314 (resized).jpg
IMG20170115105245 (resized).jpg
IMG20170115105219 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Rickwh:Installed my HOOKED spinners today in prep for bandits add on board. Im all set now. Looks good. Little nerve wrecking cutting on plastics. But all went well. !
Nicely done. I have some boards ready to go and am just working on cabling. I have a version of code ready which is better than the demo video above, but in the endless search for perfection am trying to build spinner code right down at the driver level. This might take me a while, but if you're ok with updating code, then take this version and update if I get the driver level version successfully built.
Quoted from gweempose:What are you guys using to cut the plastics? This is the thing that has me the most nervous about attempting this mod.
Dremel.
Quoted from Rickwh:Bandit on your latest met pro spinner youtube vid there is a lot more clearance between the return ramp on left and the spinner bracket than on mine.
Yeah, looks like your ramp is close to resting on this plastic. Mine is well above. Must be variation in the bend in the wire form.
Full run through of spinner code. Run of play is..
Normal play..bass drum
Fuel..on weak hit nothing, on a hard hit the fuel jackpot sound
Sparky MB..electric shock
Fade to black..whip (or something. I don't know what to call it, but it works really well)
Coffin MB..gun shot.
Notice the dropping in and out of modes in sync with game code.
1 week later
For those with a Total Lightshow kit, a very limited number of Total Lightshow add-on spinner sound caller kits now in the redshiftLED web store. There will be more, but I am building these out more slowly than usual. Replacement matrix cables are also available for those who don't wish to use the IDC pusher to get connectors onto the matrix cables. You will need to push 2x two-position connectors.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Is there some sort of cliffy to put where the ball drains so it doesn't chip? Or should I just use mylar?
Mylar. No Cliffy for there.
Edit--oops, wrong, anyone in the future reading this see below re TZ.
2 weeks later
Quoted from KornFreak28:when I was told Santa doesn't exist....
Wait, What!??!
Quoted from KornFreak28:Is it me or this machine came with NO yellow handle to release the lockdown bar?
It has clips on either side that you undo. It doesn't have a traditional lock down bar.
Quoted from KornFreak28:What about the loud hummm noise I get from the right flipper? That is sooo odd! The left also gives the hummm sound but it's a lot less than the right flipper...
Adjust and tighten the coil stop.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:I also moved the two post on the left outlane and right outlane. I moved them in to make it easier... anyone else do that? .. It feels a little like cheating though.
That's a standard adjustment option. Not cheating at all.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Then one time Sparky MB was started but the magnet didn't grab the ball. MB continued normally.
Don't worry about this. The ball is a moving target, sometimes the laws of physics just mean the ball is slightly out of reach of the magnet. Will happen every now and then.
And generally, don't worry about anything that happens very rarely. LOTS of moving parts. Things will happen. It's when something is regularly messing up that you take a look.
1 month later
Quoted from MustangPaul:What's the amps one ramp draws?
About 60mA max. It's only two LEDs.
Quoted from ATLpb:Bandit, will the EL wire be interactive? (I haven't been following much lately)
Fully linked into the GI show. Full video in about 24 hrs.
Quoted from BudManPinFan:For those of you who have played Aerosmith I'm curious as to how you think it compares to Metallica. I haven't had a chance to play one yet but I'm hearing lots of good things about it and some are saying it's better than MET.
Feels like season 2 of a TV show where Met was season 1. Similar cast but different things going on. A sense of familiarity but surprises around the corner. It will certainly go down as one of the great Pros, like Met. Shots are a big difference. AS is way tighter.
Quoted from jeston:Would anybody happen to know the part number for the return lane guides for the premium models ?
Equivalent to these but with 3 holes and for Metallica.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8951-00
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8950-00
Check for replacements for Aerosmith Pro as well. I'm pretty sure it's the same guide, with three holes, but I haven't gone to the trouble of test fitting.
1 week later
Quoted from RoyF:Really - how does this work? Obviously you would need to convert to using 220v, but how does the machine know where it is located?
AC Electricity supply frequency.
Quoted from RoyF:Very interesting! I'm no expert, but I bet someone sells a device that could convert your 220 to the current used in the US so you could run a US version of the machine. Just a thought.
Yes they do. Mike of Homepin used to do them and may still.
1 month later
Quoted from bent98:I love that helping hands contraption you have in your second pic.
Better than the helping knees in the first pic.
1 week later
Quoted from PoMC:I finished wiring up the Sound Caller kit for the spinners and now am moving on to installing the rising cross.
This machine is going to be dope! (Do people still say that, haha?)
2 weeks later
Quoted from kcZ:I still get 90% bounce backs with the metal post. I just disabled the post on the settings. I don't get near the pop bumper action but I think it is fine.
You hear of this from time to time, where the metal post doesn't fix it. I wonder if it's a pitch thing. Are the machines that aren't fixed by the metal post set up steeper than usual perhaps?
1 week later
Quoted from zpinman370:I know I have read this here somewhere regarding flipper buzzing on Metallica and other Sterns. I have a MET Pro and my right flipper buzzes like crazy when you hold it up. Any suggestions as it does take away from the game a bit.
Quoted from parsonsaj:I'm having the same issue, but with the left flipper... I know that the buzzing is considered normal, and the flipper seems to WORK fine, but since the other flipper doesn't buzz as much, there HAS to be a way to adjust the left one in some way to make the noise go away (or at least be less loud!)
Adjust the coil stop.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Doctor6:So anyone wanna chime in on the total light show mod for metallica pro? I've watched videos and it seems like the lights go back a LOT. Almost too much. Also it seems like every shot is a celebration. I wanted this, but now I'm unsure. Can I get some people's thoughts on this?
The videos I put up for Total Lightshow are demos of the capabilities, so there is an over-representation of effects. When you are in normal gameplay, the normal shots are quite subtle. In the videos you are almost always in a multiball where the jackpots are indeed celebrations. That particular video you have referenced is even more effects-heavy as it is a stacking demo, with everything active at once. A normal gameplay video is much more boring
And as Rens says, it is primarily a replication of the premium lightshow, so you can use that as a guide.
2 months later
Quoted from JeffF:Does any place have the rising cross mechanism for sale? Just looked real quick and couldn't find any. I know a couple places used to carry it...
Marco..
1 month later
Quoted from PinballRulez:Yesterday I finished the first part of pimping my Metallica.
Things I have done:
• Installed a ColorDMD display
• Stripped the playfield and cleaned it
• Installed new Super-bands rubbers (mostly orange and purple ones)
• Installed a playfield protector from Pinball Universe (man it is shiny ‘-)
• Installed the Snake mod, Snake fangs and Snake mouth decal
• Adjusted the drop targets and magnets height
• Installed Pile of skulls flipper bats (yellow)
• The game was already full led but I changed some colors (Sparky -> purple, Mystery hole ->blue, Fuel-> green, band members -> blue and the big progress inserts: Cross -> blue, Electric chair -> purple, Coffin -> red and Snake -> green). Here is a short video to get an impression » YouTube video
Things to do:
• Install metal diverter post
• Install Total Light Show
• Install Creeping Death Speaker panel
• Install Creeping Death blades
• Install Creeping Death UV lightning
• Install new (small) speakers
• Connect active subwoofer to current subwoofer
This game is a blast to play and mod ‘-)
Careful, you might upset Rens, who holds the record for most modded Metallica!
1 week later
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:How do you get airballs from striking a captive ball? I have a Pro and don't have any airballs, is something different on the Premium after doing the mod?
The only way to get an airball off the captive is to strike it above the equator. Some installations of captives into the premium, without using the assembly, may not place a washer under the ball to raise it a bit. Once that is screwed in it will be pulled down a little bit and hits will strike it above center. Airball central.
1 month later
Quoted from Fezmid:but since the 20v/50v power cuts when you do that, the beeping stopped.
Pull the interlock switch to the out position to keep the high voltage on while the door is open.
1 month later
Quoted from Neal_W:having the power switch in the front since they are in a row.
New box still has the power at the front fyi. Switch relocation is a Spike thing.
Quoted from Who-Dey:The party is about to begin folks!!
Quick, stop that guy from peeing on your game!
1 week later
Quoted from Pin_Guy:they used the LE translight in Premium machines
I don’t think so.
1 month later
Quoted from Koos:Ok so just to clarify; when I shoot the left orbit during normal gameplay, my ball should not return over the same path?
I’m not sure how a metal pin should change this bevaiour over a plastic one.
Correct.
And just accept that it fixes it. It does. There’s a lot of history on it.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Rob_G:I thought that data cable drives the RGB inserts, not the GI..
Rob
GI is data driven as well.
2 weeks later
Quoted from roar:The Metallica Monsters Premium Translite showed up on Marco's recently (Thanks dcfan for pointing this out in another thread), apparently this is rare and well priced at $149 for those interested. I really do like this artwork over the pro artwork but at about $280CDN to get it shipped here after taxes and exchange that is a hard to justify expense. $38.99 shipping is really killer... anyone local want to order a couple and share the shipping cost? Could tempt me
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/830-52E3-01
It’s out of stock.
1 week later
Quoted from SomeCaliGuy:I'm having an issue with my auto launching. It doesn't seem to be having enough power to launch the ball up. I've replaced the coil with a new one, but it has not resolved the issue.
It’s more likely to be an alignment issue than a coil power issue. If the launcher is not hitting the ball square the ball will wobble or strike the sides during its run up the shooter lane and lose momentum.
Heads up for Pro owners looking to add the rising cross mech. Marco just started stocking a more reasonably priced ($150) assembly. The full original assembly is $250. Looks like it comes as a collection of the parts and is unassembled, probably minus the cross, which you don’t need. There is no photo on the Marco store, but the part number checks out against the manual.
3 months later
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:FYI - Stern just posted that they are doing the final production run of Met right now
[quoted image]
Biggest run of anything for them by a mile. What a success story this great machine is!
Quoted from j_m_:I don't recall stern changing out and putting a rounded grave marker (or rising rounded grave marker) in any of the games that they shipped outside of north america
Yep, Middle Eastern shipped games.
Quoted from roar:I've got an odd issue with my MET that I've been living with since I got it but today things escalated . Occasionally/rarely (1 in 20/30 games kind of thing) within the ball save timer a second ball will kick out as if I had drained the first one, but I haven't... I could live with this as I'd just let one ball drain and move along. Today however a little past the ball save timer my ball ended while it was still in play... my flippers died, the ball bounced around and then I just kept playing the ball in play but it was now ball two... weird. Any suggestions on where to look?
Reseat your trough opto connectors.
1 week later
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Need a little advice here. Flipper issues for newbs.
My left flipper starts to bind up and not retract properly after a few games. I've been following this thread for a while so I believe I need to swap out some flipper parts, moe specifically the cardboard looking tube that has been know to be the wrong size occasionally.
I'm a quick study (YouTube taught me how to solder, mod game systems, fix old arcade games, etc.) but I've just never had to do any work on flippers before as I've only recently been able to have pins of my own.
If someone could provide a link to a YouTube video or something along those line as to how to properly do this job I would greatly appreciate it. I'm just not sure exactly what I should be searching for. Flipper rebuild videos? Something more tailored to this exact issue? Idk
Thanks for any input
Before you think about rebuilds, check the playfield clearance. The flipper should have a small amount of vertical play. Sometimes they are too tightly fitted down onto the playfield and can drag.
Just loosen the Allen key to adjust the flipper bat shaft.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Mikedenton49:How would one know when they have reached that limit?
One’s fuse would blow.
I have a small theory as to why Metallica remains uniquely popular. There is no doubt Met has been the biggest seller for Stern in recent times, and there are a lot of great things about it. You might say it's Lyman's code, or that Sparky is the greatest bash toy ever, or whatever. And yes, they are all great things, but there must be something unique about Met that keeps people coming back to such a high degree.
I think it's the in-line drops. In-line drops are my favourite mech of all time, and I don't think I'm alone in that. Whatever else is going on in the machine, working your way along that grave yard is just a little thing that you don't get anywhere else on your newer machines. Whenever I play my Metallica it's getting that lane open that gets my attention. The way I cry out loud when they reset each ball doesn't happen much on other games.
Think back to the release of Met. I remember jumping around in excitement over those drop targets, and I think this is one of the big reasons the Pro and Premium share popularity equally. They both have that line of drops, and it's them that really put the cherry on top of this great game.
MTL_PREM5 (resized).jpgMTL_Prem2 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from RobF:I bought a rising cross parts kit from Marco and was planning on adding it to my TLS install. What I was told by redshift was that there was some kind of hardware redesign that he needed to implement. That was a few months ago. I have since decided to create my own standalone rising cross mod (not requiring total light show) and have a working prototype. I should have it done by the end of the year.
Anybody interested can PM me directly. Also if anybody is looking to buy a Stern rising cross kit (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/511-7471-00) can also PM me.
That’s great news if you are going to get one working. From my end I was just going to throw in the redesign towel and just copy the OEM design. And I still haven’t written this off.
As long as there are two switches to indicate each of full up and full down then TLS is already coded to support it.
Quoted from Rickwh:Timebandit, i figure you are aware cause a few days ago you mentioned that the sound locations changed. But the spinners tied into the TLS mod dont make any sounds with the 1.80 code.
Yeah, working on it. It’s a bigger issue than just location changes as it turns out. Keep an eye on the TLS thread for updates.
Quoted from Aurich:New code has me dusting off my game, I'm rusty as hell, haven't been playing pinball much for a while now. Need to get my shit together so I can see some of the new stuff!
Also dusting off an in progress mod I teased years ago, see if I actually get it finished this time, heh. There's a gaping hole in my game where I removed the stock stuff to work on it, playing it again is motivating me.
Those holes are still there? Dude, two of my kids have finished high school since I saw that work.
1 month later
Quoted from Rensh:????
MET is a SAM system and has no nodeboards. They are for Spike system. So which ethernetcable are you talking About?
The CAT5/6 cable carries the controlled GI data. Yeah it's not a "node" board like Spike, but it is a purpose-specific board.
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