I think you are covered by Paypal protection on something like this - not sure if there is a time limit though.

Has anybody pulled the the cartoon color decal off of the new metal style yet? Just wondering if it it's a presentable surface without a decal at all (like the old style box)...or is that obnoxious decal serving a purpose like hiding some inherent manufacturing defects associated to the new style (like tool marks).

Will a 520-5337-00 cpu board work on a MET Prem?

I think they went overboard on the DD edition with that ugly decal as well. Perhaps a little more conservative look with some black wood grain might look better?

ebay.com link: 12 x60 Black Wood Grain Textured Vinyl Wrap Sticker Decal Sheet Film Car Bike

Anyone know what feature adjustment 60 (G.M. M.B. S.J.P.S.A for S.J.P MULT.) does. I know it's related to grave marker multiball super jackpot in some way.

In my opinion, the greatest "mod" that anyone could make to the LE is an updated coffin magnet board or complete redesign of the how the ball is sensed in proximity to the magnet to make it reliable. In it's present state, you might as well disable it and revert to "pro" mode with captive ball hits for locking balls.

Yeah, I've had the Newton ball since day 1. I really don't have a problem with hit detection though, the problem is with proximity detection when lock is lit, but I'm sure that's what you meant. I do notice that a detection/lock is more likely after deflection from the Newton ball due to the reduction in ball speed, but that would probably be the case with the Newton block, too.

The hammer down sequence would be neat if it even worked 90% of the time, but it's just an annoyance when it only works 50% of the time.

Has anyone experienced any problems from using alligator clips from the cabinet speaker to the subwoofer?

I hear you, but there's probably hundreds of machines hooked up like this with no reports of any problems yet (I have 3 of them like this myself). You would think someone out there would have messed something up by now if it was vulnerable issue.

There is a F7 magnet fuse already on the I/O board. Why doesn't this provide adequate protection to those circuits?

There is most assuredly a problem with my coffin capture. If yours is working 90% of the time, consider yourself lucky. When you hear the callout "lock is lit" that indicates the sensing circuit is looking for the ball. I sometimes pass over the magnet (at relatively slow speeds) 5 or 6 times before a capture occurs.

Also, is it me or does it seem silly to say something is "lit" and not light up a lamp or flasher accordingly!

Mine is Oct '15. Is your magnet board under the playfield (520-6801-00) Rev "D"?

It's on the back of the cabinet.

I think a VU audio bargraph type meter would look great there.
Maybe something like this:

VU_(resized).jpg

I just hooked one up and wasn't that impressed myself - I think hooking up to the cabinet speaker was just as good soundwise. Also, now there is an annoying "thump" sound when the machine is powered off. I'm using a Sony sub - not a Polk, but not sure how that might make a difference.

There is a drastic diff between sub and no sub - I'm not saying otherwise. There is just no significant difference between hooking the sub up to the cab speaker or hooking it up to the pinsub board in my case.

Nope.

LED light kits and acrylic inserts (2 Metallica designs) available at:
www.speakerlightkits.com/
Very nice!

In-line fuse sounds like a good idea here. Any idea what amp rating you might recommend for the fuse?

This additional fuse protection is good advice. The only thing I would add is since you are going to just cut the connectors off, modify with the larger molex pins/connectors, and change the fuse out as well, you would be better off just getting 40 cent in-line fuse holders from China, rather than pay more than $6.50 a piece (plus postage) for PBLs. Only drawback is you might have to wait 2 or 3 weeks longer to get them.

Fuse_Holders_(resized).jpg

You need to read more carefully, friend. I said that you have to cut the small Molex connectors off of the PBL in-line fuses in order to put the large ones on.

Really, because you quoted me, in particular.

Wisdom is knowing when to stop talking.

It's set up correctly. Like I said, there may be some difference, but IMO either setup will result in the same desired "loudness" (with plenty of margin to spare) by turning the volume knob on the sub a little. I didn't notice any improvement in the quality of the sound myself. YMMV.

I'm guessing the hammer "bounce" is a feature, not a flaw. Hammers do naturally recoil (with the exception of a "dead blow" hammer) when they smack a solid object and this is just simulating it (OK, on a grand scale!).

Is that a hammer - looks more like a rawhide mallet to me

The ColorDMD is hands down the best visual mod, the shaker is the best touch/feel mod, and the sub is the best sound mod.

For visual mods, I would also highly recommend these one-piece lasercut siderails (if you can find them - they were a limited run from what I understand). Matching crinkle black finish makes them look factory stock. The lettering is UV light reactive -they look great in normal light conditions (and they really pop under UV!)

DSCN20331_(resized).jpg

Perfect summary.

Here's a neat way to dress up your sneeze guard.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-vu-bargraph-meter-mod#post-2983633

Get this to take the place of the tournament button - only $30.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2894

That's happened 2 times on mine as well (in about 600 games). I haven't done it yet, but one solution would be to have a small plastic "door" over that area with a spring-loaded hinge. The door would prevent the ball from getting in there when the cross is down. The hinged door would open as the cross raises, and close when the cross goes back down.

I'm guessing the transistor is shorted on the board. You had the magnet disconnected from the circuit, so current draw was not high enough to blow the fuse. The circuit on the magnet board is not designed to be "on" for long periods, so it heated up until something opened it. I bet if you replaced the transistor (and the charred resistor), it will work again.

Call Stern and explain what happened - if it's a relatively new game, they should send you a new board free of charge. If not, I think a new board is about $60-$70. Don't throw the old one away - it can be repaired.

This is a very true! I just made this mod to my premium - my wife even took notice and complimented the beautiful color effect on the inserts. What a great idea, HankScorpio!

Would also be great to have an actual light come on when "Lock is Lit".

It doesn't happen often, but I've done that twice myself!

I've had the ball in play stick to the captive ball several times. I finally used a captive ceramic ball - that eliminates the issue for good.

Snake eggs!
Why not hide the wires inside the hammer handle?

One of the balls is stationary (caged) and serves only to transfer energy to the other ball (which is free to travel a short distance to close a switch on a standup target).

Never understood this either. Might as well hammer in a 6p nail on the outside of the the cabinet and hang the backbox key on it, too.

Geez - they could have painted the screw heads black to hide them at least.

Check the power connector coming off the bridge rectifier in the backbox - it's a 3-position z-connecotor having a red and a black wire going through it (one posiiton is not used). Should be toward the left side of the backbox in plain view. Unmate it, then remate it and see if the lights work now.

Do yourself a favor and buy a cheap chinese cable tester on ebay (I think the P/N is CHL-468). They cost about 10 or 12 bucks. It will verify the cable/connectors are good or bad within 2 minutes, so you can focus on other troubleshooting efforts.

What type of paint did you use for the snake eyes and hammer flames? It really pops.

The snake rattle animation is used every time you shoot the ball in the snake jaw. It has to be a clean shot though (can't ricochet off the coffin for instance).

Gotta wonder what kind of score rates that harsh of a review?

I had a burned-up magnet board about 3 months after I got my machine. Got a free replacement board from Stern. Board was exactly the same revision. I installed it, but also installed an in-line 2-1/2 amp slow blow fuse under the playfield to protect the board. The fuse lasted a few months, then it blew one day. Replaced it with another 2-1/2 amp and it blew several months later, too. So I replaced that one with a 3 amp fuse which I've been using for about a year now with no problems. Bottom line is it makes sense to install a 50-cent fuse to protect that $70 board because the 4-amp fuse in the backbox will not.

There is no Sparky board. Sparky magnet is driven directly from a transistor on the main driver board in the backbox. The hammer magnet processing board under the playfield right side is what I'm talking about. Put the fuse on the J1 input side (not the J3 output side).

Here is a photo of my installation. You can buy the in-line fuse holder at a lot of places - I think I got a bunch of them on Ebay for a few bucks. They will come with plain wire ends. You need to install it somewhere on the purple/yellow wire leading into J1 on the magnet board. I can't remember if there was an existing 3-position Molex connector conveniently located in the harness that carries that purple/yellow wire (50v) and a black/red wire (ground) or if I added it. But in any case, I just broke that connection and put the inline fuse holder (for the purple/yel wire) and a jumper wire (for the black/red wire) in between it. You'll have to make (or have someone make it for you) the 2-wire "harness" with the Molex connectors on it. That way, you can always take this "mod" out if you ever wanted to reverse it. Hope this helps - you can PM me if you have any questions.

DSCN2518 (resized).JPG

I was thinking that too - not too sure how much adjustment there is in that guide rail but worth a try. Another thing that may be worth a try is to change the cross-section of the post from round to triangular, so that when the ball hit it, the post might turn, absorbing some kinetic energy and deflecting the ball more into the lane area. You would have to sacrifice a post or two to grind in that new cross-section (could use the original plastic post and a file). May or may not work but probably worth a try.

I don't think it rotates much - there's nothing to impart rotation to it with just a circular cross-section. A solid shot up the left orbit results in the ball hitting the post and essentially rebounding back at the same angle to virtually the same spot on the guide rail every time. Apparently, minor geometrical deviation between machines can either make the ball consistently return down the left orbit or go into the pops like it was designed. So you're either lucky or you're not.

But I think if you make it triangular or fluted, now there are "fins" on the post that the ball can interact with, rotate it, and hopefully "randomize" that angle of incidence with the guide rail to enable the ball to go into the lanes hopefully every time but at least more consistently.

I have seen this condition only one time. I forget what machine it was, but I turned it off and left the operator a note to change that ball out before it ruined his playfield. It looked like a "moon" ball with all the craters and facets, and was darker in color than a normal ball. I assume it just wasn't hardened properly.