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(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 17,825 posts
  • 999 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by embryon
  • Topic is favorited by 366 Pinsiders


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#312 7 years ago
Quoted from Av8:

There are 5 main shots as on AFM (See Pic. Look familiar?). Each with 4 inserts and a Red "Shoot here" arrow. Shooting a shot 4-5 times starts/qualifies the Hurry up for that shot. Do this 5 times (each shot) for Total Annihalation MB. MM has similar Hurry up Jackpots also.

Let me know if Im wrong here.

Only 3 shots are required to each of the 4 main shots to start the hurry up. The key (if going for the 1 Bil hurry up) is obviously to get each shot to where only one more is required to start the hurry up & if possible start with the cow Ramp as that is the toughest of the 4.

1 week later
#434 7 years ago
Quoted from jimbeam42:

That post coming in from the back board is way above where the ball travels.
It's the playfield post that deflects
On mine, a left orbit shot is slowed by the post and trickles into the pop bumpers
On rare occasions it does shoot back down the left orbit, when the ball is traveling will a lot of speed.

The placement of that post is horrible. Had they raised it to where it was nearly against the ball guide you wouldn't get these bounce backs we are seeing In videos.

#436 7 years ago
Quoted from Leachdude:

Question about the snake kickout. Where exactly is the snake kicking out on your flippers? I have played 2 of the both from NIB. Both different. One is closer to the tip (My machine) and the other machine is more towards the lane guide on the flipper.
I have had a flipper rubber snap in half already. 100 games. It was a green rubber. Not sure if it may have been defective to begin with out the hit from the snake it beating it up, will know in my next 100 games.

Green flipper rubbers I've noticed aren't very durable. I put some on my old SS and they snapped later that same day.

1 year later
#771 6 years ago
Quoted from thunderking50:

I think ACDC is done Rob.
Love them both and here to stay... but d'ont know why but the Fun factor is a litlle bit higher on Met .

ACDC is not done

1 week later
#800 6 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

There may be future updates but acdc code is fantastic and the game is definitely not incomplete. Whether or not the designer added some inserts to the play field that the code team use or not isn't relevant. The acdc code is some of the best code ever written for a pinball machine in my opinion (along with Metallica). I consider the code done. Future updates are just a bonus. I believe anyone that feels acdc "needs" a code update falls into the impossible-to-please category.

I never said it wasn't great. He stated ACDC is "done" and I simply stated no it's not. I already feel ACDC is the best game I've ever played and can't wait to see what Lyman comes up with to polish it off.

6 months later
#1971 5 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

Don't you drill threw and use t-nuts?

Was this a serious question?

#2048 5 years ago
Quoted from EricR:

I assure you that on the Premium at least any of the others can stack after Coffin. Coffin and Snake running together is the best.

This is correct....All other Multiballs stack with Coffin as long as Coffin is started 1st.

1 week later
#2117 5 years ago
Quoted from clg:

I just picked up a ME pro last night. One quick thing I noticed is the ball gets hung up on the plunge at the top of the PF between the lanes and the plastic plunger thing that blocks the ball. It just comes to a stop and takes quite a bit of nudging to free up. Any advice, also anything else I should look out for adjustment wise, so far that is all I have noticed.

Check to see if the plastic up-post is adjusted properly. When it's in the lowered position be sure it's level with the playfield. There is a adjustment screw in the bottom of the up post assembly.

1 year later
#6043 4 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Is plastic inferior in this application? Seems to do the job...

Plastic is actually better as the metal on metal would sometimes cause some annoying noises while nudging or shaking the game.

1 week later
#6160 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

The best option would be someone with access to Lyman Sheets politely letting him know how much we would all love to have these two switches activated in a future code.
But the spinner activating the standup targets does not bother me one bit.
And being able to complete Fade to Black mode as easy as the LE owners can is awesome.
I never completed that mode once until I installed my spinners.

Or you could do what the rest of us have done if fully functional spinners matter to you.

Buy the premium!

#6229 4 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Is there a Super Skill shot to the rollovers as well?

Hold in the left flipper and plunge the right rollover is the highest scoring Skill shot. It can progress to over 2.5mil.

#6230 4 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

Hold flipper to disable post, then plunge to lit skillshot lane w.o moving the light (I think) .. if you can make the right lane with no post or moving the light (just nudging), you get double (2M+)

got me by a few

#6256 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

The post "stops" the ball, and then gravity brings it to the pops. The problem is that the ball bounces too far off the plastic post, and gravity carries it to the left.
Again, I'm not sure that's a problem if it's awarding the left orbit inserts toward CIU a second time.

As many have said that's why you replace the factory plastic post with a metal one. Did this in my old LE and never had bounce back issues afterwards.

#6267 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

But what I'm saying is, it's better to have it reject to the left orbit instead of the pops, but only if it awards the lit inserts toward CIU a second time. No one has confirmed this in recent posts, and I'm not at home right now to check. Why replace it if rejects are better?

You want the ball to fall into the pops when playing fade to black. Probably the easiest CIU to beat and the coolest lighting effects.

#6285 4 years ago
Quoted from stevevt:

Unfortunately, those 10 seconds are coming off of your CIU mode time.

The song timer doesn't start till you select the song.

1 month later
#6699 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

That is why you buy a later run, after the game has been established.
First runs can get a little odd sometimes, but you SHOULD have had this exact manual (in a plastic bag taped to the playfield glass when NIB), not some 30-page xerox bull$#@!.
If you received your "second owner", that would answer the equation.
I hope Stern has not pulled another "fast one" with manuals being an "upgrade" with Premium and LE models, but if they have, that sends crinkles on my brow.

Manuals for the Pro models are always a lot smaller then the Premium/LE Manuals.

4 weeks later
#7014 4 years ago
Quoted from ViolinSteve:

I just bought a short LED strip from Comet and stuck it in the apron where the balls drain. Lights up the area rather well.

You needed to see the ball drain better? Lol

3 weeks later
#7233 4 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

No. Wear started out of the blue. Advice was magnet to low so I took it out and tryed to file it flat, for it was high in the middle. And try to stop any future damage. I could not get it perfect, so I am going to put a new magnet in and a Cliffy to try to stop damage to my game. Iam hoping this works.

Your Magnet core really isn't that bad, the issue is you never protected the wood around the core. Every game I've had with magnet cores like this I'd just get a piece of Mylar and lay it over the magnet so about 1" of the wood all around the core is protected then use a exacto blade and cut the Mylar off over the core (this to me works even better then the cliffy magnet core protectors). This will prevent the kind of wear you have on your Playfield.

#7234 4 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I would continue to reach out to stern and your distributor, I'm pretty confident that is a defective playfield. I ordered my game on May 29 and sometime before that they halted production on games due to this issue until CCC could correct. Mine was finally made on June 18.
When you get the cliffy definitely prep the area with rubbing alcohol as he suggests before applying. I will I've had a lot of trouble with those particular cliffys staying in place and with some paint missing on yours now there will be even less of a flat surface to keep it there . I have ended up just putting the mylar circles down from pinballlife

His doesn't look like a defective Playfield. Just looks like normal wear from a magnet core when the Playfield wasn't protected. Look up pics of many SM Playfields around the Doc Ock magnet and you'll see much worse.

1 week later
#7290 4 years ago
Quoted from Gort:

Not sure what switch was the culprit but games fine now.

It was the right side inlane switch. Maybe it was stuck closed for a lil bit. I'd take the glass off and go in switch test mode and slightly push down on the switch to see how it's working and be sure to center the wire rollover switch so it doesn't get stuck on the sides of the cutout for the switch.

2 weeks later
#7385 4 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

It would have been great adding more songs and for us pro owners having scoring and sound effects for our hooked spinner mod. Overall great code update Mr Sheets.

And how would they have coded that in? If coded spinners were important to you then you should have bought a premium/LE

#7407 4 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Thanks! I just checked their website, and it appears that I may need a new mounting bracket as well ...
The Color DMD will most likely be coming out of my WPT, which I assume has the older incompatible bracket.

Be sure you order a clear DMD window also. The newer stern ones come with red Windows. All you need are the spacers and the clear dmd plastic and you are set.

#7511 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

No, the only way to center it is by using washers.

This is incorrect. You can unscrew the shooter rod assemble from inside the cabinet and move it slightly till the tip of the shooter rod hits the center of the pinball. I've had to adjust many over the year and it only takes about 5-10 mins.

#7512 4 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

How do you adjust the shooter rod? Mine is way off center.

See above

#7516 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That didn't work for me.

You have to remove the 3 screws holding the shooter assembly then the 2 red screws holding the mounting plate. Once that is loose there is plenty of left to right movement and you can even move it up n down a lil. Every modern stern is like this. I'm assuming you didn't looses the mounting plate.

#7532 4 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Ooops, posted to soon, I did not loosen the mounting plate. Thanks, Ill give that a shot!

Trust me this will work no problem. If it isn't working you aren't doing it right.

7 months later
#9430 3 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Ah ok nice. It's like a mountain if anything still. It's not flat at all. I guess the only problem is I might not even see that mushroom out over time with the Cliffy there now.

No actually you want to cut the mylar away from the top of the Magnet Core. If you don't it will get chewed up and leave a sticky glue residue on your pinballs. Just lay a circle piece of mylar over the magnet core about 1" extended from the core then use an exacto knife & cut the mylar away that covers the core.

1 month later
#10262 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

If that is toast, mine is like Chernobyl. I do intend to get the pro setup though. Which reminds me ....where can this be purchased again?

pinball life sells the newton ball.

#10264 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I had the newton ball on my premium, but put back the block. The reason is that I was getting airballs of the ball.

Ive never had an issue with air balls on my road case. Did you get the newton ball with the metal base?

2 months later
#10800 3 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I dunno if Pin Graffix still offers it but I did a road case speaker decal for anyone who wanted to match the cabinet instead of the bright colored look that's more suited to the Pro cabinet.

Just ordered one recently. They are still available.

2 weeks later
#10916 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

If I wanted to change the color of the F U E L lights on my premium, is it just a matter of swapping out LED's?

There is a cheaper way of doing this and much easier. Just buy some Red, Orange, Yellow & Green Super Band flipper rubbers & cut them to fit in the inserts & you will have a nice effect. I did this on my Road Case & it turned out great. Will post pics.

#10917 3 years ago

Here is what they look like using super bands as insert filters.

IMG_1927 (resized).JPG

IMG_1929 (resized).JPG

#10929 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Can you take a pic of what it looks like underneath?

Here is a underneath pic

IMG_1931 (resized).JPG

#10931 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

how did you get those things to stay in there?

Cut them to a tight fit and they give enough to hold them in place. Also the light board prevents them from falling out.

1 month later
#11188 3 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Was just stripping down my recently purchased met Pro led and found the snake head kicker switch does not have a diode across it. Seems like that's factory. Can anyone else confirm is the same (or not) on their game please?

Yes that's how it's supposed to be. Wait till the time comes when you need to change that switch out. Talk about a pain in the ass!!!

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