(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Rampmaster
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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7243 Magnet removal Posted by xTheBlackKnightx (7 years ago)

Post #8935 Buzzing flippers fix Posted by j_m_ (7 years ago)

Post #19696 Fixing random drop targets dropping Posted by swampfire (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#11787 6 years ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Moving machines to a charity show - one of the straps gave way.

NOOOOoooooo!!

I'm sorry this happened to you, it pains me to see this.

1 week later
13
#11862 6 years ago

I'm late to the club, but happy to become a new member!

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#11871 6 years ago

Got her out of the box today and all setup.
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odd thing is I found some parts in the bottom of the shipping box.
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Looked all over the machine and found a dangling bridge rectifier in the head that looked really out of place.
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Since the part in the bottom of the box looked like a heat sink and there was a metal bracket with no apparent reason to be there right by the heat sink, I'm assuming these all go together; can someone confirm this is correct?
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1 week later
#11960 6 years ago

This would have worked so much better if they installed orbit gates like AFM uses.

1 week later
#12049 6 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

maybe this could have been corrected by having that outer ring made from something non-magnetic but with a tensile strength similar to the magnet core

a beryllium-copper alloy would do this, the only downside is that beryllium dust is toxic.

#12051 6 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

grabbing one of the spheres would be a b*tch with all of those goblin miners guarding them

I thought they were goblin minors

2 weeks later
#12151 6 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Put my first plays on a NIB Premium last night, and one of those bulbs came out after about 15 games. I remembered this post as it was rolling toward the trough! Caught it in time.
To fix, I put a small RING of hot glue around the base, instead of a dab. Too much, you think?

Not at all. I had a similar issue with my ST LE and after some trial and error, I found that its best to rough up the area a little bit before you use the hot glue, this gives the glue a good surface to adhere to; after several years now, the bulbs are still in place.

#12183 6 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

It would be cool to have our machines somehow prompt us with updates if they were “smart” WiFi machines. Sort of like the update prompts on the iPhone except these would be very welcomed.

Would you really want Stern Pinball involved in IT security? I know I wouldn't.

#12207 6 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Is it bad to hold the flippers for an extended period of time?

maybe? How long is extended? I've held a ball in place before for several minutes while having a conversation with no ill effects.

1 week later
#12231 6 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Go to settings and set shaker to maximum interaction

This is actually "Maximal" I have no idea why Stern decided to use this instead of Maximum

1 week later
#12290 6 years ago

If you want it fixed this weekend, your best optin is to just get rid of the Z connector and install male and female Molex connectors on the wires. The female should go on the voltage side and the male on the load side

#12299 6 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Why is the ribion cable provided by color DMD so damn short ? Am I missing something , it's not even close to long enough to connect .

I think you are missing something, but I'm not sure what as you should be using the ribbon cable that came with your game....

Have you reached out to the folks at ColorDMD? In my experience, I found them to be very responsive to issues with their products.

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#12303 6 years ago

Glad you got her working, sucks to spend that much on a mod and not get to use it right away.

I believe the short cable is needed for Stern White Star games like LOTR that have the DMD controller attached to the DMD bracket; I'm not sure why they would include that in a SAM package as I can see the confusion it could create.

1 week later
#12352 6 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I'm kinda getting bored by Metallica now which is why I have it up for sale. I actually enjoy Mustang more than Metallica and hope to get an Aerosmith Pro if the Metallica sells.

I'm not sure I would put AS over MET, but it's your choice to make; my advice ... consider going Premium on the AS ... the upper playfield is more than just a mini playfield with targets, it literally changes the dynamics of the game.

1 week later
#12422 6 years ago

I recently swapped out my LCD display with an LED display, I'm still on the fence as to the LED vs LCD display. While I do like the display options available with the LCD, the colors of the LED are so much more vibrant that it makes it a hard decision

What to you guys think?

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#12432 6 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

I did install the LED Color DMD and it's taking some time to get used to. With is my first experience with the LED version. I love the small size of the overall unit, but I am having trouble getting used to the display. I have tried all combinations of brightness and contrast and I am still a little skeptical. What settings are people using on this game? I might move this over to another game and get an LCD version for Metallica... Someone said the LCD version of ColorDMD is smaller now and doesn't stick up above the speaker panel?

You are echoing my concerns about the LED over LCD as well ... this is going to be a strictly personal decision on what folks like the best.

What do I like about the LED over the LCD:
1) The colors are simply amazing, no video will do this justice.
2) The LED fits perfectly into the speaker panel, there is no glare cast from the backbox across the display that can wash out the colors (this can be eliminated with 3/4" right angle molding...this will be a separate post)
3) The wife prefers the LED ... weighed appropriately
4) It's slightly cheaper than the LCD

What do I dislike about the LED over the LCD:
1) DOTS only, no ability to change settings.
2) dot size is not consistent (some dots are smaller than others)

#12433 6 years ago

Ok, so I was asked by another member if I could post a video of the LED display, this is something I rarely do, but afforded me the ability to gain some proficiency using Divinci Resolve so I went ahead and made one. For what its worth, I did no color corrections to this video, so the colors are not accurate since my camera is not able to capture how vibrant the colors actually are.

NOTE: The entirety of this video was made during one awesome 60M+ ball ... why can I never achieve this in a tournament?

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FcrV_SGoSkq41TWPvHfLVWv91GgpOFAb

#12466 6 years ago

Had an awesome game going ... then magnets stopped working.

Replaced magnet fuse but could hear a magnet come on when I turned on the game ... isolated to coffin magnet and disconnected magnet.

That's when the magic smoke came out

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#12469 6 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I've had my fuse blow twice and I seem to remember that it was when the coffin energized. Has your blown before?

Nope, this was the first time it blew

#12471 6 years ago

Slingshot protectors?

#12475 6 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Bingo!
Printing them out now in transparent filament. I'll take pictures of them installed and lit up when ready.

Did I win a free set? I would love to have those!

1 week later
#12525 6 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Sounds like yours is from 2015 or 2016 when stern had decal issues. Contact your district or stern and they should take care of ya.

oh man...that's when my game was made and my right decal was peeling out of the box. They replaced it, but now I'm thinking I should have asked for both sides

#12534 6 years ago

Line it up where you want it and use scotch/painters tape on the sides to hold it where its aligned perfectly. Then start at the top by taking a 3-4 inch portion or the protective backing and folding it over to expose the sticky side. Use your laminating roller to firmly press this area into position, once firmly secured you can remove the scotch/painters tape and begin peeling back the protective backing as you seat the decal with your laminating roller.

#12563 6 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Can someone tell me what Metallica premiums cost NIB these days?

$7200
http://pinballstore.tripod.com/metallica.html

But if you call and talk to Mike, you can probably work out a better price

1 week later
#12634 6 years ago
Quoted from xbmanx:

Im on my 3rd magnet card with metallica premium. It has issues.

yeah it does, I sent Chaz an email to ask why they changed the load resistor from 10W to 5W since 5W is far to low to dissipate the power of a locked on transistor. Realistically this board needed either a fuse or a 25W load resistor.

#12743 6 years ago
Quoted from jeffsarcade:

Has anyone who bought a MET new in box over the past six months had any issues with it? Build quality, inserts, etc.?

I'm thinking of selling my AS Prem and rejoining this club.

About the same as any NIB Stern, seems like all machines have their issues but the support from Stern and/or my distributor have been outstanding.

The good:
This is my favorite Stern release since LOTR! (subjective)
Near perfect registration on the playfield and no defects that I've seen (crossing fingers on this one)

The Bad:
Right head decal was peeling out of the box - replaced by Stern
The heatsink, screws, and washers (for the additional bridge rectifier installed in Premiums and LE's ) were floating around in the shipping container. This was corrected before powering on the machine.

The UGLY:
It appears there is a design problem with the coffin magnet controller board (LE/Premium only) that makes this a high failure item. All non-Stern suppliers of this board are out of stock as of today and mine failed in the first couple months; I've only had this machine since late November. I have my replacement board from Stern, which I promptly received by contacting my distributor after Stern failed to ship it in a reasonable time (3 weeks). The only other MET I play is on location at the Operating Room in West Des Moines, IA.; the owner there has replaced this board twice and 2 weeks ago I set the coffin magnet to disabled since he keeps blowing the magnet fuse, presumably due to a failure or the 3rd magnet board.

With that being said, I have no intention of selling my MET as its such a great game to play...even though it tends to frustrate the hell out of me quite often!

Other thoughts:
I also have an AS Premium that I would not part with, its an absolutely gorgeous game and a lot of fun to play; while I currently play MET more than AS, there are still code updates on the horizon for AS which will likely put it on par with MET if not better; IMO you should keep em both if you are able to; if not, it's a hard decision you are faced with and hopefully I was able to provide you with some useful information to help with this decision.

#12745 6 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

That’s why it wasn’t working. I have a Met Pro, but have never played the premium and was looking forward to the coffin/hammer. My wife and I only put a couple plays on it due to the magnet problems. We’ll have to go back sometime.

Dang, that's a long way to drive, I'm sorry to hear you missed out on this feature as it's pretty cool; I do hope you had a great time at the Operating room as this is my favorite place to hang out, I'm usually there on Saturday afternoons; perhaps we will bump into each other one day in the future

1 week later
-4
#12856 6 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

This may be a dumb question but why doesn't Stern just sell these? I mean, what would the negative be?

Stern has a policy of not selling ANY parts that are exclusive to the LE. In the case of the Metallica translight though sterns LE policy makes no sense as they used the LE translight in Premium machines which makes it NOT specific to the LE and thus not an LE part.
For the record, I think Sterns policy is ridiculous!!!

Added over 6 years ago: The Premium/LE translite information I posted was an obvious error ... thank you for politely correcting me.

#12891 6 years ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Completely false. MOPLE has a mirrored backglass. NOT a translite, and it was never used in any premiums. I don't know where you guys come up with this shit.

Thank you for the correction.

2 weeks later
#12971 6 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

This is my favorite way to nail a super skill shot on the left side ...

>90% of the players will fail at that >90% of the time

#12985 6 years ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

So my Met Pre is still having hammer magnet issues (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-hammer-magnet-troubleshooting-question-multimeter). Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it stops sensing the ball at all. I emailed Chas at Stern a few times and he thinks it's the magnet board

IMHO - This is a major issue with the MET Premium I hope the engineers at Stern can figure out why this board has such a high failure rate and make a REV E board that is more stable.

My one suggestion to stern regarding this board is to disconnect the magnet, and simulate a drive transistor failure by shorting the transistor...if the board burns, it needs to be properly engineered to fix it. I know from the Spike system that Stern doesn't like fuses and obviously their engineers forgot EE 101 that you do not substitute fuses for current limiting circuits since circuits can fail ... if they didn't you wouldn't need either.

1 week later
#13138 6 years ago
Quoted from Koos:

What do you think about Pinstadium?

overpriced; don't get me wrong, I think they look great but for what you get ...

1 month later
#13427 5 years ago
Quoted from Koos:

But I stil have issues with the LED's popping out. Every 20 something games, one of the LED bulbs fly across the playfield!
Any tips on how to fix them more firmly?

I first ran into this problem with my Star Trek LE. What I found is that original spotlight LEDs were hot glued from the factory but still didn't stay in place; the reason these fall out is that the inside of the cone is very smooth so there was really no where for the hot glue to adhere. I used one of my dental picks to rough up the inside a little bit by making tiny swirls in the plastic, this gives the hot glue something to grab onto. 4 years later...the LEDS are still in place, yet only a small amount of force is all that's needed to pull them out if I need to. Ever since them, I perform this same procedure for spot light LEDs on all my new Sterns.

1 year later
#16808 4 years ago
Quoted from mbasnight:

There is a post right above the mystery scoop that has a 7/16 OD rubber on it which causes the ball to go SDTM or bounce over to the left flipper when it comes down from

Sounds like the wrong size rubber, this post rubber should not extend beyond the edge of the guide rail. For a quic fix, just swap it with the one to the right of Sparky.

2 weeks later
#16826 4 years ago

DANG IT! None left
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4 months later
#17369 4 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

I have the gi strobing issue that I have solved by turning down my gi intensity setting to 40%. If I reseat the data cable and/or the power connector to the gi pcb I can sometimes adjust the setting to factory 50 and even up to 55%. But it is unstable and the flicker returns not long after.

Everyone I worked on that had this issue was due to a burned power connector.

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2 weeks later
#17428 4 years ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

The only funny thing I noticed was the green light next to 5V was not on. Any ideas? thanks

Yes, measure your 5V and see what you have; its probably either missing or very low. Just reading the symptoms and looking at the picture, you likely have a failed bridge rectifier BRDG4 (DB3501) or a failed 5 volt regulator U12 (APXW005A0X3).

Your 5V originates as 13VAC from the transformer and enters the Power board on pins 8 and 9 of J17. Its safe to assume that this voltage is there since your L7 lamp is lit which signifies that you have AC voltage to the bridge rectifier (BRDG4)for this circuit.
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#17429 4 years ago

Wait a minute...Your Power driver board is very different from mine. Can anyone answer why they would be different?
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EDIT: I answered my own question Premium/LE machines have a different Power driver board than Pro models...unfortunately I don't have a schematic for the Pro model.

#17431 4 years ago

I found a schematic!

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#17434 4 years ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

The game is still under warranty, would this be easier for me to ask for a new board?

If its under warranty and happens again you may want to touch base with Chaz at Stern Pinball or contact your distributor.

1 week later
#17474 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

hahha I saw a machine, then had to pause and rewind and my wife was wondering what I was doing

...and then she did the eyeroll

10
#17488 4 years ago

I finally got around to working on my magnet board that burned up ... The damage to the board itself was fairly substantial penetrating several layers deep into the board.
DSC00317b (resized).jpgDSC00317b (resized).jpg

The board prep consisted of cleaning the board to remove all the charred residue then using a dremel to mill out as much of charred layers of fiber as I could...this could not all be removed as the board was burned through to the back side.
I didn't get pictures of the board prep or this actual PCB repair, but here's a video on how its done:

The Failure was identified as a shorted MOSFET which was replaced along with the burned resistor, a 10W resistor was installed to replace the 5W that burned.
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Its hard to tell from the pictures, but the repair to the board is completely smooth and I used a clear epoy for the fill...if I had green dye to add to the epoxy this would have looked much better.

EDIT: Board was installed in machine, played a few games and I'm happy to report it's working great!

1 week later
#17508 4 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

The lower snake jaw seems to be sitting kind of high off the playfield on my Met Prem (getting lots of rejects). I’ve looked at the threads where people have added washers and/or adjusted a set screw to get the jaw to sit a bit lower, but haven’t seen good pics or a clear description of where the set screw is and exactly where to put the washers.

Interesting...I would like this information as well as I get a ton of rejects from the snake.

#17518 3 years ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

Does anyone know the part number of the metal plate that that goes around the magnet in front of Sparky?

I'm not sure what part you are asking about so:

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#17523 3 years ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

Hey Guys,

Felt it necessary to show off my new Seahawks themed Sparky. Spinny Vinny worked his magic for me, and I could not be happier with my one of a kind Sparky.

Enjoy!

Very nice! One look made me want to fry his ass!

#17530 3 years ago

looks like a standard #6-32. I would just take it to the hardware store and get a new one.

#17540 3 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

he Cointaker fangs are actually Mezelmod fangs that CT also sells on their website. Mezels have literally sold thousands of these since the game came out 5 years ago with very few reports of breakage (less than 10 officially).

One of my fangs broke...

but only because the hidden screw in the snakes mouth popped out one day during a game and was sitting on the playfield; I stopped playing and when I was putting this back in with my 90 degree offset ratchet screwdriver, the side of the ratchet hit the fang when I was torquing the screw down which chipped the tooth

On the plus side, having a chipped fang gives the snake some character.

1 week later
#17558 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

But he's in australia

I dont believe Australia is shipping international right now. I have an item I ordered from Mr. Pinball that has been "Cleared and awaiting international departure" since April 3rd

#17560 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Yup, I have mods coming that have been tied up almost two months.

1 month later
#17626 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Anyone noticed a bug in the Crank it Up modes (and maybe elsewhere?) where you get an extra ball with a scoop shot

Nope, I can never make the damn scoop shot

3 weeks later
#17647 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Quoted from Soulstoner:
Found a MET HUO Premium for $6250 plus tax. Is that a decent price or a bit much?

Sounds like your getting it from a dealer, not a private transaction. You can expect a dealer to charge a bit more since it is their livelihood, but typically if it does not work after you get it home or something breaks soon after they will fix it for you. (ask about their policy)

If you decide to buy it, tell the dealer you want them to provide you with a new magnet board in addition to the one in the machine as a backup just in case you have issues down the road.

3 weeks later
#17680 3 years ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

So I'm looking to add some color to my pro. LCD or LED? Please help!!

I had a Color LED in my Metallica and it looked okay, but I really didn't care for it so I swapped it out with the Color LCD from my STTNG. The Color LED looks AMAZING in STTNG, way better than the LCD did; I've heard similar thing as well from others that the LED seems to look a lot better in the older Bally/Williams DMD games.

3 weeks later
#17706 3 years ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

Can you still get cabinet/head decals from stern? If not, anyone know where you can get them?

Check with your distributor.

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