(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

6 years ago

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#7314 3 years ago

Anyone get a NIB Met Pro of a more recent run? Built within the last few months? I'm wanting to pull the trigger on a NIB Met Pro but keep hearing about playfield issues on other threads, not just MET but other pins like GB as well. Clearcoat issues, inserts lifting from the clear coat etc... Any advice or thoughts here would be appreciated! Before anyone suggests getting a used one - yes I've looked for awhile, none have popped up near me, I want the Pro LED version.

#7327 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

Just got mine in May, no issues at all. I've been playing non-stop, one of the best games of all time.

What does it show for the manufacturing date on the sticker on the cab?

#7329 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Picked up my NIB Met Pro in late May. Same deal, was looking to buy used but nothing readily available that made $ sense to me, plus my retailer had one in stock and I was worried with the Stern delays recently that I wouldn't get one until the fall if I didn't pull the trigger now.
Initially I was put off by all the crazing on the inserts on my playfield, but it seems like this is very common and you do get used to it. I also had issues with my clearcoat chipping off of the drain hole after less than a week of home play which was *not* cool at all. I made a thread if you haven't seen it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-my-nib-metallica-pro-playfield-defective
If you get one, protect the drain hole, shooter lane, around the magnets, under the ramp drops, and the Mystery hole before you play a single game if you are fussy about stuff like this. Stern's current clearcoat does not hold up at all anywhere there is anything but a flat surface.
The game itself is amazing! Full adrenaline rush and always makes you feel like you left points on the table everytime you finish. So I'd say go for it if you're so inclined, but wear protection!

Yea, I read through that thread before. That was the one that got me a little worried to purchase one of the current NIB Met Pros. I know distributors got more of them, I've called a couple. I would have pulled the trigger on one if it wasn't for these clearcoat issues. The Star Trek Pro I used to own had zero playfield issues, it was perfect the entire time I owned it.

#7331 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Yeah, welcome to the Stern NIB "lottery"...
Any chance you could inspect the game before you buy at the distributor?

I don't think so. It would be shipped to me. I could probably make me peace with the crazing, but the clearcoat chipping really worries me.

4 months later
#8696 3 years ago

I've been interested in getting a met pro for a long time now. Is there a date range of these pins to stay away from? Pins built after June or July 2016? I'm very nervous about getting one with a bad playfield, ghosting, chipping, etc... Any thoughts on this?

#8702 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I don't know if they've run the game for a while. The only issue I remember was ones made around April 2014...

They did a run of them the end of this summer/early fall I think. That's when distributors got more. Seemed to be around the same time people started complaining about GB playfields.

2 months later
#9053 2 years ago

What does everyone think of the older METs with the wood backbox. Any differences besides LED lights and backbox?

#9057 2 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

I like 'em. Solid as a rock. The older ones don't have the termination resistor boards on the lamp matrix headers so make sure you put good quality non ghosting leds in if you get one. They also have the older opto trough connector which was first upgraded on IMVE. This means you will get the odd ball-end-midball issue which requires a quick reseat of that connector.

The one I'm going to go look at the guy bought a kit and installed them. What's the worst case? The lights would flicker?

#9060 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Look for how smooth the insert leds fade up and down, if it looks jerky not a smooth fade in and out that's bad. The OCD board will take care of that problem.

So I take it that board could be added on?

#9063 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Yes. It's just plugs into the MPU and then the harness connector plugs into this board. No reason it couldn't be added to a non-LED Pro, however most people just use non-ghosting LEDs which would not require use of such board.

The MET I'm looking at buying has a complete kit from cointaker. Currently trying to decide between a 1 owner HUO STTNG and a 1 owner HUO MET Pro with the wooden backbox.

2 weeks later
#9189 2 years ago

Is there some sort of cliffy to put where the ball drains so it doesn't chip? Or should I just use mylar?

#9191 2 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Mylar. No Cliffy for there.

The cliffy for the sparky magnet says "carbon fiber", is that better? Or should I just use mylar circles?

#9222 2 years ago

Could someone post a pic of what the pinbits extended sparky protector looks like installed. I purchased a met pro with wood backbox, only 39 plays on it. Everything looks perfect on it. I want to try and keep it that way. I ordered a full cliffy set and am wondering also about mylar on the sparky magnet vs carbon cliffy. There is a clear plastic piece coming out from sparky legs but I don't know if that comes from the factory or if it's a mod?

#9230 2 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Heres a pic of my extended sparky protector plastic (i have 3 left in stock for $6, pm me) and the template i used for the mylar i cut out and applied around the magnet area. (I cut a hole in mylar for magnet not shown).

Oh wow that's nice, goes all the way up with mylar. What is the easiest way to cut the hole?

#9232 2 years ago

Here is mine. The plastic seems shorter?

20170128_111211 (resized).jpg

#9235 2 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

yep my shoes have some scuffed paint too.
I should clarify that the sparky plastic i make protects from airballs that happen after the ball hits sparky and flys off all over the place. The extended plastic keeps the airballs down on the playfield. So you really aren't protecting sparky as much as the potential damage from repeated airballs. I would get some pretty nasty dents in my magnet cause the ball would get sucked down out of the air by the magnet after hitting sparky sometimes. That is kept to a minimum now.

So you sell one different from the one on pinbits site?

#9237 2 years ago

So where is everyone buying their balls from lately. I looked on pinball life and didn't see those shiny ones listed anywhere? I wanted to make sure I bought a set that could not get magnetized.

#9263 2 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

I highly recomend Cliffy's for
1 Ball Through
2 Shooter Lane kit
3 Myster Scopp
I prefer the cut it your self static cling vinyl for sparky and hammer magnet. It can be removed at anytime with no downside. If you do choose to do the Cliffy for the magnet, make sure its level. This is a good idea no matter what you do there, and replace or recheck once your magnet turns into a mushroom as they all do over time. Magnets that aren't level, wreck playfield, games that don't have Cliffy's will chip in shooter lane/ball through and have beat in wood around mystery scoop. This includes HUO, just the way things are.

Where do you order that static cling vinyl?

#9301 2 years ago

I'll be getting the full cliffy kit soon. I'm still a little unsure whether to install the carbon ring around the sparky magnet. Anyone install that one and later regret it, or is it holding up?

#9307 2 years ago

So the cliffy set comes with 3 pieces for the shooter lane area. Wondering if the rail guard piece is really that necessary. That is the one that goes on the wood rail and you screw in 2 screws to old it in place. Does anyone have pics of that area without cliffys installed... after a lot of plays? Curious if that area does get beat up a lot after a ton of play.

#9310 2 years ago

Sounds good, I'll put it in also. I think I'll just install the entire cliffy kit, including both carbon fiber rings.

#9335 2 years ago

Is this magnet core better than the one that ships with met? Would it still get banged up the same and look bad after 50 plays?


#9353 2 years ago

Anyone ever install these in a MET Pro? I've never owned a machine without the support brackets underneath, it really bothers me. How do you even properly work on these, I can't pull the playfield out far enough. I'm pretty sure the Star Trek Pro I used to own had them. Not sure how they'd even install, there are no holes for the t-nuts. Not even sure the exact spot to put them.


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#9356 2 years ago

Here are some pics I found online for a tron, it looks like the holes are drilled closer to the edge of the playfield for the t-nuts.

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3 (resized).jpg

#9367 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Yes they are drilled under the apron. No worries if you screw up, but it was so easy I don't see how you could screw up. I was a little apprehensive since I have never drilled into a playfield before let alone a brand new game but it was easy and painless.

Awesome. I thought I remembered seeing a picture on pinside of the EXACT spots the holes are supposed to be drilled. I looked around and couldn't find the thread it was in. It showed the measurements of where to drill. If anyone remembers where that pic is, please post it. I think it was the spots Stern drills them, or used to drill them, from the factory.

#9370 2 years ago

Do the premiums come with those service brackets installed? If so, some pics from someone would be great, it would be nice to know the best spot where each end should be screwed down on met pro.

#9371 2 years ago

Met is awesome, pro or premium, can't really go wrong.

#9438 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Where do you guys buy your Mylar rolls from? I would like to mylar the sparky area. Thanks!

I purchased a big piece of it from Marco. It was 22 inches 2ft long, rolled up, and is enough to do many games. I also bought some of the iron man mylar circles. The big piece I bought is thicker, and stickier and seems way more heavy duty.


#9452 2 years ago

I've decided just to mylar around the sparky magnet. I've got a spare magnet core that I can trace around to get an exact circle cut out. Should I put the mylar all the way up to sparkys feet or just cut a smaller circle to go around the magnet?

#9456 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Yep I did the same. I've got all my little protectors and a new metal post and even a topper. Just waiting for my game from Pinball Refinery dying of anticipation!

What topper did you get?

#9464 2 years ago

I was installing the pinbits plastic protectors on the slings. Do you take off those big plastic washers and not use them? There was 3 of them.

#9466 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Yes ,
It also allows the the nut on top to grab the threads of the post .

Thanks! I assume those were the factory plastic protectors?

#9469 2 years ago

Thanks for the pics! Anyone have a hard time loosening the sparky magnet? Turning counter clockwise, can't budge it.

#9471 2 years ago

I got the nut off. Just a little tight. Amazing how fast the sparky magnet gets beat up. I have the extended protector on now so we'll see how the new one looks after a few hundred more plays. People say to wax before putting the mylar down, but the one time I did it the mylar looked a little bit discolored, like it wasn't as clear as it should have been. Not sure if waxing before is the best idea. Does the mylar pattern look good?

mylar (resized).jpg

1 week later
#9791 2 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Hello. Got a Metallica pro on the weekend. Only really ever played the premium/le.
If I shoot the right orbit the post will come up and the ball will go into the pops.
If I shoot the left orbit the post will come up and the ball will hit it and bounce back down the left side.... Shot doesn't seem to register either as the red insert still flashs.
Game is set to 7 degrees and flipper power is set to high.

Mine does the same thing. I bought the metal post on pinball life's website. I have no idea how to install it though, so it's still just sitting here. The metal one is supposed to solve this problem.

#9793 2 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

I installed the metal post and I don't see any improvement.

Really? Maybe I won't install it then.

#9796 2 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Damn. Are they coming out of the factory like this? Or does it happen overtime? I'm guessing the ball is hitting the post right in the middle instead of on the side... And because of this it's rebounding instead is deflecting.
In this case is it an issue with the orbit?
Do the pops actually do much in Metallica? Have people disabled the post for a faster game?

This issue has been talked about a lot in met threads. I assumed the metal post solved it mostly but I guess not. The game seems to be designed to let the ball go into the pops a lot.

#9800 2 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

I mentioned the issue to Borg he said he was going to send me instructions for a simple fix, I'll share the info with everyone when I receive it.

That would be awesome if you could share that.

#9819 2 years ago

I just got done installing that metal post. Happy to report that the games I played after the ball did not bounce back even one time. Seems to have solved it perfectly. I could be wrong, but I think the reason it works is because the metal post is only about 1/2 the diameter of the plastic one, it is noticeably smaller. I'm talking about the smaller part that pops up above the playfield, the part below the playfield looked to be the same size and the height was identical to the plastic one. Since the diameter is smaller, it has a little more "play" in the playfield hole, it absorbs the impact and moves a little when hit.

#9822 2 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Good for you dude! Majority of owners know that post solves the problem.

It worked great! I also moved the two post on the left outlane and right outlane. I moved them in to make it easier... anyone else do that? Right away we were all getting higher scores and longer ball times with that change. It feels a little like cheating though.

#9842 2 years ago

It made the game a little easier for sure. My wife liked the change.

#9851 2 years ago

Does anyone know the number of flashers in MET Pro? I need to figure out the type of flashers to order and the exact quantity. Thanks.

#9882 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So I was playing right now and after sparky MB ended the game went into ball search mode...all the balls were in the through. Game ended on its Own after about a minute of ball search
(ball 3) Started another game and everything normal.
Then one time Sparky MB was started but the magnet didn't grab the ball. MB continued normally.
Are these common issues on Metallica? Thanks!

We've put a ton of games on our MET in the past few weeks and it hasn't ever done anything like you described.

#9923 2 years ago



#9928 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

So I've owned the game for 24 hours now and put 40 plays on it. This happened 4 times today. The ball gets stuck on the lip of the snake. The game goes into ball search but the ball search doesn't activate the jaw so it just sits there until I have to tilt the game. Then the jaw moves and kicks the ball into the drain. It happened twice in one game. Does anyone else have this problem?

Is the angle of your game set steep enough?

#10015 2 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I sent you another PM explaining in more detail.
Lady Justice will always play the last two minutes of whatever you have in the "One" song slot. You can edit anything you want for those final two minutes (I'm estimating on the time; I mentioned 4:30 earlier, which is also an estimate). You have to create that file with your edits before you import into Pinball Browser.

What songs can safely be replaced that are not used in modes? I just want to add shortest straw and probably 2 others.

#10017 2 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I would consider the songs that are "untouchable" to be songs that have animation and call-outs related to the song. Those songs and modes would be the following:
The four CIU modes: For Whom the Bell Tolls, Fade to Black, Battery, and Enter Sandman.
Fuel mode
Blackened mode
Seek and Destroy mode
Graveyard Multiball (Master of Puppets)
End of the Line wizard mode.
That's nine songs, in my opinion, that I would not change if you're concerned about animations and call-outs that match up to the song. The other four, in my opinion, can be changed without any glaring problems:
Sad But True
Creeping Death
Shortest Straw is the perfect length for Unforgiven.

Thanks! What about "One". You were also saying it plays the last 2 minutes in a mode?

#10123 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I shot a quick video that demonstrates how to use a loop pass to set yourself up for a strobing super skill shot on the left side of the playfield ...

How do you get the ball to go around the entire orbit on the plunge? The post on top always pops up on mine and the ball always goes into the pops?

#10134 2 years ago
Quoted from Backyardace:

I hope it's cool to ask this here. I'm wanting to purchase a Metallica Pro and wondering if it is better to buy one new or HUO?
My questions is not from a cost standpoint, but more about the quality of the machine. Is it better to get one before Stern changed how they clearcoat the playfields?

I bought a 2013 met pro huo. It's rock solid, no regrets. I had to put leds in it.

2 weeks later
#10285 2 years ago
Quoted from Brad76:

Can anyone explain how or what is hit to allow the ball to Loop all the way around the back rather than being stopped by the diverters? most the time it hits the diverters but I know sometimes it Loops I just don't know why it does each thing specifically?

Shoot either ramp, then hit the loop, the post won't stop it as long as you got the loop immediately after the ramp.

5 months later
#11596 2 years ago

Quick question - where do I buy the spinners mod to add to my MET Pro?

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