(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#11519 2 years ago

Just brought home a HUO pro. Love getting a pic when the deal is done and the pin is loaded! Kind of an optical illusion. Doesn't look like it fits in that space.
hauler (resized).jpg

It's a 2013 with LEDs and a shaker installed and the playflield looks great. It came with cliffys and protectors that I'm installing.

Question -
The gravestone magnet looks flat with no wear, but the Sparky Magnet is hammered in to a perfect mushroom shape. It is smoothed over the the edges of the playflield. It seems to be protecting the playfield, and I doubt the protector cliffy ring will fit around it. Probably leave it as it. What do you guys think?

magnet (resized).JPG
level (resized).JPG

#11522 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Stern puts tons of Locktite on that nut from the factory

OK, thats good to know. Acetone should help with the locktite. Time to order a core.

1 week later
#11568 2 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

A Q-Tip at the end of needle nose plyers

For things you cant reach, use cotton (or a bit of cloth and a rubber band) wrapped around the end of a bamboo stick.

1 week later
#11631 2 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

Is this a new record time for breaking Sparky's foot off?

I recently went through every image in the gallery for this thread to catch up, and there are photos of wear, but never a break.

Claim manufacturing defect and request a replacement!

4 weeks later
#11789 1 year ago
Quoted from Animal:

Can anybody help with explaining how you get new/different song names into the display to correspond with the new music you put in?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-song-replacement-tips-request-locations-suggestions-and-discussion

2 weeks later
#11955 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

instead, the left orbit shot (with the post up) is supposed to fall into the pops?

Yes, when the diverter is up, either orbit shot should fall in to the pops. With the plastic diverter post it bounces off the post and comes back down the orbit, but it shouldn't.

It is easy to install the metal diverter post, and it will never bounce backwards down the orbit again.

#11965 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Maybe I need to set my game steeper and that's something I'll check.

I was just going to say that.

1 week later
#12039 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

The only time that it goes down is during a skill shot or a ball search.

That's not normal. Not sure what is going on with yours. (possibly a setting? Something reversed?)

Normally it is always down, and it momentary pops up when the ball goes around the left or right orbit, hitting the orbit switch. (during a ball plunge, it is down until it hits the right orbit switch and if you hold in the left flipper button, it should stay down, allowing the ball to go all the way around.) When you hit enough ramps to spell Metallica, then Lady Justice timed mode starts and it then does not pop up, so you can go all the way around the orbit in either direction.

1 week later
#12118 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

compared artwork on the original games, and the newer ones

If you zoom in on the fuel gauge "1/2" text, the newer one appears slightly rougher, and the cracks in the letters A.L. right above that, have ghost lines. Not really a show stopper, but different. (the quality on my 2013 pro is the same as your LE)

#12130 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

You can also try rolling back the last ball and see if you can wiggle the led out a hole

Yup, take off the glass, and then look in the coin door and use a jewelers driver in the slot on the side of the through to push the last ball back where you can grab it out of the 'drain', then push the bulb back where you can grab it.

Next, secure those bulbs in the spots or it will happen again. I like to wrap electric tape in a U around the base of the LED with a cutout for the contact legs to poke out and re bend around outside of the tape. It will be hard to push the bulb in, but it wont come out soon.

3 weeks later
#12265 1 year ago
Quoted from Sullmeist:

I am building a trophy for Metallica high score holders in our house. (A Dad here at home needing a holiday project. ) The base has metal engraved plates that will show current and past record holders. If a visitor gets it, they take the trophy home with them.

Find a cheap sparky (replaced due to broken foot) that is suitable for a trophy and put him in a chair. The trophy holder has the right to repaint/retheme sparky.

3 weeks later
#12385 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Ordered some mods as well that haven't arrived yet. Shaker motor, mirror pinblades and snake fangs and decal set.

Welcome to the club. I recommend adding a cliffy for the shooter lane and fluorescent plastic protectors.

#12401 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

.....that is how it is started? damn...i didn't even know! I just hit the snake over and over...then randomly a multiball starts that I think took forever to get.

Besides hitting a lit snake insert shot, hitting the snake will light the snake, but ramps/orbits are easier for lighting it.

#12427 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I have figured out how to set up my game to do the dead bounce scoop shot. I use Titan silicone and keep adjusting pitch (via the front legs) until you can make the shot. On my game it works 9.5 times out of 10.

Never tired this before! Just tested my pro built in 2013 - Works reliably with mine at default ~6.5 degrees, yellow flipper rubbers (not silicone), and flipper angle is slightly down from the flipper tops being straight in line with the inlanes.

Maybe a previous owner dialed in the flipper angle, but they look like standard angle to me.

#12434 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

dot size is not consistent (some dots are smaller than others)

I see what you mean, but never noticed that before. Guess it's not a deal breaker for me.

#12446 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

post stopped working on my Metallica pro. I went into coil test last night and every other coil on the game worked as it should. I'm assuming the issue must actually be at the coil itself then? Any suggestions on what to be looking for?

Take a look at it. Any wires broken off the coil lugs?

#12448 1 year ago

Coil matrix?? Your thinking of lamps and switches.

It is controlled by the 6 transistor driver board from page 109:

LOOP UP POST Q55 YEL-VIO, YEL-GRN 26-1200 (090-5044-ND)

#12464 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Thanks I went through and tested all other coils and everything is working properly. I'll take my multimeter with me tonight and test the coil and transistor, thanks for the help.

OK, I first saw the "loop up post" listed on the "6 transistor driver board", but it appears that is for the PREM/LE. Now I see the first half of the service manual is for the PREM/LE. The second half is for the Pro.

Q7 is correct for the Pro which I see you have listed in your collection, and connector J8-pin8 is the control for the coil and J10 is power.

#12478 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Are there some settings for this thing to dictate when and how it comes on? To me it comes on too much and it's more than just a vibration, it rattles the cabinet glass! I'd like to calm it down a bit.

Yes, there is a software setting for how frequently it comes on and you can physically change the offset of the shaker weights so they are not so rough. I believe the closer you make the weights to 180 opposite each other, the less it rumbles.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-there-a-shaker-motor-power-adjustment-not-for-how-often-used

#12480 1 year ago
Quoted from Oshara:

Ever since we replaced our playfield, we've been having trouble with a ball getting stuck in the trough. Generally 3 balls make it all the way down, but about 40% of the time, the last ball stops 1-2cm before it touches the other three.

Sometimes a microswitch will become very stiff and hold up a ball without activating. Check and see if that switch clicks and moves freely like the others there.

If you cant adjust it, you may need to replace it.

#12502 1 year ago

Disabling the door interlock makes sense for tournaments. That will allow stuck balls to be set on the flipper, and play can resume.

I wasn't aware of issues with sparky. Apparently it is the coil that makes him jump in his chair, not the magnet.

#12508 1 year ago
Quoted from Roostking:

What makes tourney play different from hou or location play?

Two big things- In tournaments, all extra balls are turned off, and if they can't be turned off, you must just plunge them.

Second, you turn on the tournament setting, which makes all random awards occur in the same order for all players, such as the mystery award.

#12512 1 year ago

Read one tip - Use an old flipper rubber to put around the door switch to hold it in.

1 week later
#12550 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

does The snake register every time the ball goes into it?

The green light above the snake must be lit for the snake to register S-N-A-K-E. You light it by shooting a shot with one of the orange snake inserts lit. I noticed that if no snake inserts are lit, hitting the snake will light one.

#12573 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Built better - not really
Heavier - yes. There are 3 extra mechs in the prem/le. Moving Grave, Hammer with dissapearing magnet and associated subway, snake jaw. Probably adds another 10 pounds or so.

I believe the earlier manufacturing dates had the all wooden head and later had the metal head with wood side panels. That probably affects the weight of all models, depending on the build date. (example - my 2013 pro has the wood head)

1 week later
#12631 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Also, is it a game the family can enjoy (not crazy hard) and is the wizard modes achievable (unlike LOTR)?

Metallica is harder and faster to play than LotR. Both have final wizard modes you may never reach. Most see this as a benefit for the home since it gives you a challenge, and that "lets try one more time" experience.

For kids, they can bash/electrocute Sparky all day long, but it depends what they enjoy.

#12637 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

So EOTL is as tough to get to as Vallinour?

I can't say, I own both pins but have not got either.

#12689 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

OK so I put the metal up post in on the upper orbit and it seems to have made zero difference in bounce backs to the left orbit. If anything it seems to bounce back more! What am I missing here? I did notice the metal post is thinner at the top than the plastic one, but the pictures on pinside seem to show the same.
Oh well I might just have to disable it, because the bounce back is aggravating.

Check to make sure the PF is perfectly level left to right and at 6.5 degrees on the playfield.

#12696 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

The new metal head is preferred for a number of reasons,

I have not heard that. I love my 2013 pro with wood head, looking good next to my B/W pins, and having the power switch in the front since they are in a row.

#12711 1 year ago

My metal post never rejects, so there must be something were missing.

1 week later
#12811 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

I heard some beeping in the machine again today.

Start unplugging boards and mechs and test until the beeping stops to track it down. Start with the new board.

1 week later
#12927 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

** MET Pro Vault **
Details, anyone?

I think they are mixed up with AC/DC vault now shipping.

1 week later
#13022 1 year ago

I was printing apron cards for my B/W pins and I realized the cards in my Met Pro were not the same shape and are only 3"x5".

The ones I see online are wider, and would need to squished/stretched to print 3x5 shape. Does anyone make apron cards that are the right shape?

1 week later
#13090 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

adjust the magnet to the right height, slightly above the playfield. What’s much more important here is to remove the magnet core every 500-1000 plays and fix any mushrooming that has started.

Makes sense. Setting it slightly higher protects the edge of the wood, and should be easy to file/grind it back flat when needed.

#13102 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Next game: 4.5M total. WTF? I don't understand pinball....

That is the ONE MORE GAME draw of a good pin.

#13123 1 year ago

note to self. Chapstick goes in right pocket, Loctite goes in right pocket.

#13136 1 year ago

My darts come with miniature rubber O-rings to secure the shafts from unscrewing. I am going to give those a try.

2 weeks later
#13301 1 year ago

The shaker has two weights spinning on a shaft. You change the angle of the two adjust how hard it shakes.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-adjust-a-shaker-motor-on-tftc-tutorial

3 weeks later
#13449 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Much more graceful then using glue.

I use the method of putting electric tape around the base of the bulb like a 'U' (cut so the wires are exposed). The bulb pushes in VERY securely and never falls out.

#13464 1 year ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

a single well placed washer has everything perfect

Nice fix! Doing this to my TAF and TZ right now.

3 weeks later
#13631 1 year ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

not sure if it's worth all the hassle to save 800 bucks.

Yup, a playfield swap is a big job. I'm not sure a NIB pro with shaker is $4500, but you can find a nice HUO pro for that price.

#13658 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Marco just started stocking

Out of stock

1 week later
#13780 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

So before and after. Youtube, Not ideal test conditions, my lady said old one sound better, lol, oh well
So if you are considering this probably not worth it,

I see you replaced the original 8ohm speakers with their 4ohm speakers. Not sure if they had you change the wiring to series or something but normally that is a not a good idea to increase the load, which can damage the amp. Two 4 ohm speakers in series would equal 8 ohms and be safe for the amp.

If your not satisfied with them you could ask about returning them.

1 week later
#13849 1 year ago

As mentioned before, make sure the playfield is level left/right and set to 6.5deg slope. I noticed that just moving my Metallica around in my game room affected how often the ball bounced back, which was due to slight changes in level. The metal post was the final fix for me.

Maybe adjust the position of the ball rail above the post, down a bit if possible.

2 weeks later
#13953 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Yup, totally sucks. You go from rocking a multiball to loosing it all...and there’s nothing you can do about it...but there is always an element of luck (or bad luck in this case) with Pinball.

Reminds of LotR when trying to destroy the ring, and 2 balls getting stuck in the ring magnet on the final shot. At least you can change the setting to "1 ball destroy the ring".

2 weeks later
#14043 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I had the left spot light bulb pop out yesterday and land in the trough area

Read this thread about how to put a piece of electric tape around the base of the bulb so it will NEVER pop out again. Every time I have a spot light or other horizontal bulb fall out, I use this method to secure it forever.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights

2 weeks later
#14135 1 year ago

Could be the wrong coil sleeve or something faulty was installed at the factory.

1 month later
#14291 1 year ago

I love the black T-molding on the head.

1 month later
#14735 11 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

What mods, if any, do you all suggest first?

The iridescent green/orange plastic protectors look great and protect the sling and inlane plastics. Get the ones with the holes, so the plastics remain the original color.

Not sure who sells those.

1 month later
#15393 9 months ago

I have turned off extra balls on all the pins in my game room for 2 reasons.

I play in tournaments and want my pins to behave like tournament pins to get a better feel for all aspects of tournaments. (scoring strategy when not focused on getting an extra ball, and extra ball point awards versus risk, etc.)

Second, if I am playing pinball with guests at my house, and get some extra balls, I think they get bored waiting for their turn. With them turned off, the play time for each player is more balanced and everyone has fun playing together.

#15427 9 months ago

... or a HUO pro for about $4.5K.

4 weeks later
3 weeks later
#15857 7 months ago
Quoted from ED-209:

For those of you that swapped your diverter post to metal, is the top of the metal post smaller in diameter than the plastic one?

Yes, it is skinnier at the top of the metal diverter post.

As far as rules.. It stays down if you hold the left flipper during a skill shot plunge. It stays down if your orbit shot is completing a combo.

1 week later
#15956 7 months ago
Quoted from lazyfatdog:

So I'm waiting on delivery of my NIB Met Pro (unbelievably excited) and have been working my way through this thread. Mostly what I'm trying to figure out is, are there any mods that are strongly recommended for purchase/installation prior to setting up the pin?

I would just play it. Perhaps install a shooter lane cliffy when you get the chance. Get some Windex and paper towels to clean the glass. The rest of the stuff is just a distraction and wastes time you could be using to play pinball.

2 weeks later
#16028 6 months ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I am thinking either all purple, all black , or purple on the outer edges, and black in the middle.

I like Metallica with all black t-molding, which looks nice next to the '90s pins.

#16042 6 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

As soon as I close the coin door all the lights go out. Any ideas?

Maybe a loose coil wire touching the GI light string? (the coils are not energized until the door is closed) Or maybe a lamp touching a coil because something is loose?

I would look at every coil lug for something touching or a coil wire that has fallen off.

#16054 6 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

I'm at a loss with this one! If anyone has any ideas on this, I certainly would appreciate it!!!
Thanks again everyone

There are always more methods to troubleshoot.
Unplug mods and test.
Pull the fuses for the coils and test.
Unplug GI or Coil connections and test. You may even find combinations of connections that cause the issue.
With the GI unplugged or fuse pulled, check each coil and flasher for operation.
Test the boards in another pin.

Also, you man want to start a separate troubleshooting thread in the tech forum to get the attention of a lot of experienced techs.

#16082 6 months ago

The previous owner put a reflective flame decal there on mine. No idea where they found it, but I think it looks great in person.

met2 (resized).jpg

met1 (resized).jpg

#16094 6 months ago
Quoted from iAmKemo:

lost sound to the backbox speakers

Pins 1 and 2 of connector J10 go to the backbox speakers. Start by checking those wires with your meter to make sure everything is connected.

speaker (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#16185 5 months ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

So I just upgraded to V 1.8 and now my flippers, particularly the right one, are definitely weaker. Is that a thing? Any advice??

Inspect the right flipper mech and confirm it is moving free, and none of the hardware is coming loose, etc.

1 month later
#16360 4 months ago
Quoted from headwedge63:

I suspect one of the optos for the drop target is being triggered incorrectly.

Open the switch test in the diagnostics and knock on the playfield and see if the issue occurs.

3 weeks later
#16414 3 months ago
Quoted from HankScorpio:

zene10 is absolutely correct about the cross inserts. I had a very early run Pro LED with the metal backbox and my crosses were "cross shaped". I am not sure how long after they changed to the fully routed cross, but mine did not need the 3D printed mod.
Unfortunately I sold my MET a while ago or I would post some pics. I bought my MET on 9/2014 if that helps at all

My Pro with the wooden backbox, (dated AUG 05 2013 on the back of the cab) has square cross insert holes routed out.

IMG_6736 (resized).jpg

IMG_6741 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#16528 78 days ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

I am noticing a fair amount of "shavings" around some of the orbit, pop bumpers, etc.

Maybe crumbs from the wax or the rubbers. I use a small paint brush to sweep away dust and debris between cleanings.

Welcome to the club!

1 week later
#16579 71 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I understand the nut can be very tight but the whole assembly?

It is mushroomed at the top, so loosening the assembly does not help, since it will not pull down through without damaging the playfield. You need a large wrench and screw driver for that job. (to hold the center while turning the nut) Heating the nut makes sense.

1 week later
#16614 62 days ago
Quoted from Sako-TRG:

Gents,
Where can you buy a good Met shooter rod?
Also, some good flipper bat covers - Metallica themed of course
Thanks....

This one looks cool..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-shooter-rod-cylinder-head-wip

#16621 61 days ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

What size socket/nut holds that magnet core?

I use large channel lock pliers to turn the nut, so that I can hold the core from turning with a large screwdriver.

1 week later
#16637 48 days ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

Howdy all! I'm late to the party want to say hello.

Unboxing - Cool. More photos plz!

2 weeks later
#16723 34 days ago

The translight quality is good so they are probably not copies, and none of the signatures are 'exactly' the same. Heidi said it was a printed signature, but they would be identical if that were true.

I bet that DD signed a bunch at Stern. Maybe they were planning to use those in a vault or ship with the last 50 produced, like Borg signed, or maybe they were signed to be shipped to Stern Army members to use for prizes, etc.

#16735 31 days ago

Yup, common fault on Metallica.

#16765 26 days ago
Quoted from ReallifePin:

I've since done a switch test and all of Drive 2 does not register in test. (That's all trough switches, all lanes and the pop bumper switches) I tested continuity and I have continuity all the way back to the board. I'm assuming now that it is a board issue but I'm still hoping not.

You could try inspecting all those switches for anything shorted to ground.

2 weeks later
#16810 9 days ago
Quoted from mbasnight:

Ive uploaded a pic and you can see its just barely over the edge of the metal wall there. Its just barely visible from this angle.

That's called the rail for the right orbit.

The rail on my Metallica is more to the left so balls rolling along there will miss the rubber. To fix that, you need to take that plastic off and whatever else is necessary and see if you can loosen the screws holding the rail to shift it a little left and tighten it back down.

#16812 9 days ago
Quoted from mbasnight:

Actually I suspect most of the terms/parts/etc I dont know yet.

Glad that worked. You can read this if your having trouble falling asleep..

https://www.ipdb.org/glossary.php

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