(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


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  • 21,649 posts
  • 1,176 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Roostking
  • Topic is favorited by 425 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7243 Magnet removal Posted by xTheBlackKnightx (7 years ago)

Post #8935 Buzzing flippers fix Posted by j_m_ (7 years ago)

Post #19696 Fixing random drop targets dropping Posted by swampfire (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mrgregb123.
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#6933 7 years ago

Anyone have a source for the larger magnet cores (hardened version if possible) for Sparky/Graveyard? I found a link that pointed to one on Pinball Life but this SKU says it works for WMS games too and the WMS games I have use noticeably smaller cores so I'm not 100% sure this is the right one?

#6972 7 years ago

Hey guys - just installed ColorDMD on an LED metal backbox version. Is it normal for this display to be noticeably far away from the speakerbox panel? I installed it exactly as shown in the instructions (OK, well the mounting instructions at ColorDMD.com are for the old backbox and are wrong for the metal one - but the instructions for the hex/plexiglass add-on were followed exactly) and you can see the edges of the color DMD display if you look to the side. It sits 1" to 1.5" away from the speakerbox panel....is this normal?

#6999 7 years ago

Does anyone sell the metal Premium or LE apron for this game? Was hoping to try to retrofit one in my Pro but haven't been able to find anyone that carries it....

#7002 7 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Did you ask your distributor? They've been able to get me all sorts of parts from stern

I haven't. Never purchased anything from a disty before and was unsure if they'd sell me one. Any recommendations?

#7008 7 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Stern put a stop to that practice about 2+ (maybe three now) years ago directly through distributors for a number of reasons.
One of the main reasons is to prevent owners from turning a premium game into a LE.

That's what I was thinking and reason I didn't bother calling a disty. Main reason for wanting the Premium apron is to have the spotlights in there to better illuminate the flipper area. Has anyone retrofitted the two spotlights into a Pro apron and have any tips?

#7024 7 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

First - +10 on what mustangPaul posted. That is where I have mine as well and it works great. I went with the frosted version though which helped dim it down a bit.
Second - Dang you for the RGB suggestion... Now I'm thinking it may be cool to get 3 separate ones for their (3 strip instead of the 7's though) and tie them into the correct GI that would match the strip. That way when the game is all blue my apron light is blue, all red and the apron is red and so on.

Brilliant. Why didn't I think of this before I ordered my white one from Comet! LOL

#7027 7 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Anyone who has the Total Lightshow mod on their pro can take the power for the LED strips that you might mount in the drain back to the relevant colour output on the main board and drive it in sync with the rest of the GI.

I was thinking of just using alligator clips attached to one of the colored string's bulbs close by, but you're saying to wire it all the way back to your board?

1 month later
#7595 7 years ago

I had the chance to speak with Lyman at the Pintastic show and thank him for the latest code update. Cool guy to talk to. He said a bug was discovered after the 1.7 release, I guess the music after the game is over cuts off too early. He's fixing it and releasing that update soon. If you haven't installed 1.7 yet and want to wait, prob a smart idea. If you already installed 1.7 the bug isn't that big a deal but just wanted you all to know.

2 weeks later
#7890 7 years ago

Snake is sitting too low. Raise the snake up using the screw directly under his mouth under the playfield. When leveled properly the cliffy is unnecessary because the ball never reaches the edge of the wood before it enters the snake.

1 month later
14
#8536 7 years ago

Finally reached End of the Line. Wow, what an exhausting game!

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#8539 7 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Congrats - quite the achievement! Factory default settings (i.e. is there hope for me?) or personalized on your game?

The changes I've made to the game are the left outlane post is down a notch and the ball save goes 5 sec longer. Did it for my kids because this game is brutal on them but they love playing it.

A little embarrassed that I got EOL and didn't even break the high score. I put up 1,120,000,000 a few months ago. Never made it to EOL but got 355 million on Seek and Destroy and 280 million on Blackened. They ran simultaneously during coffin multiball.

Absolutely love this game as there are so many ways to get great scores.

3 weeks later
#8615 7 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Seems pinball life does not sell the super shiny balls anymore, what do you all recommend for Metallica? I am due...
Thanks!

PBL has had issues getting balls that meet their standards. Titan Pinball sells VERY similar balls (look the same to me) for about $1/ea. Awesome deal.

3 months later
#9433 7 years ago

Has anyone experienced a random multiball at the start of Crank it Up? I know it can't just be my machine because it happened to me on a friend's Premium as well.

Basically, at the start of a Crank it Up, 2 more balls are shot out of the plunger. The game makes no reference to them but plays properly (if one ball is lost, the game doesn't end the ball). The mode plays exactly the same. It's happened to me twice on my machine (Pro) and once on a friend's (Premium).

#9442 7 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

End of the Line is multiball
But all the others are single ball. I wish I were more knowledgeable so I could help. I know some other Stern games use an infrared LED ball trough board to handle the kick outs. On Transformers, if this board malfunctions, or the LED or readers are dirty, or the leads need to be reseated, etc. it will kick out two balls into normal play. It seems strange if this is ONLY ever happening in Crank It Up though. In the times I've seen it (never on Metallica), it would be sporadic and not at all dependent on mode.
Edit: The part on TF is Dual Opto Transmitter #515-0173-00, and I see Metallica uses this same part. Page b3 of the manual: http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/metallica/pro/421/MTLAB1.PDF
That might be a lead into the issue. It was previously recommended to me to just replace the board if the foil traces are broken. If the connector is loose, just try reseating it. Some people have had to use cable ties to help hold the connector to the board on other games.

Yes - it is weird. The issue has never occurred outside of CIU (and on mine it happened 6 mos apart), and it's happened on another machine I played as well. I would think it would be a trough issue if it happened all the time, but it never has. Just wanted to see if anyone experienced this besides me.

1 week later
#9767 7 years ago

Hey guys -

If anyone is looking for some Cliffys for Met, I am offering up the Mystery Hole protector, Snake protector, and the two inlane protectors for $25 shipped priority mail. They are used but good condition. I bought my Met Pro with them on but re-cleared the playfield professionally and don't see a need for them anymore w/home use. PM me.

#9813 7 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

you do realize that the metal protector in front of the snake mouth is not a cliffy, but rather a factory provided protector that was installed during manufacture of the machine by stern, correct?

Ha. Nope, didn't know that. But on Pros with a properly positioned snake, the ball leaves the playfield surface and into the snake mouth well ahead of the edge of the wood, making removal a non-issue. Had it removed for a year, not even the slightest hint of wear in that area. Just because Stern does something doesn't make it necessary. On Premium/LEs, the mouth tends to sit lower making this a must, so I can get why they'd do it on those. Where Stern should have installed a factory cliffy is the (at least) left side of the Mystery hole which takes an absolute beating (I use mylar and a Mantis instead, much cleaner).

1 week later
#10060 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I have noticed that some of the plunges hit this area instead of going up the loop. Is this pretty normal or do I need to make some adjustments? Thanks!

I always thought it was the metal guide maybe getting in the way or something else. But you know what primarily causes this? The leveling of the game. Once I properly adjusted it (adjust the back legs), I've had just a single errant plunge in about 300 games, whereas before it was one in 2 games. Also recommend using the proper green launch spring...mine had the red one which is way too much power and unnecessary.

6 months later
#11567 6 years ago
Quoted from aveamike:

hello,
can anyone advise on how to clean the cross drop targets?
thanks
m.

Naphtha + a microfiber cloth for the first one or two you can reach. A Q-Tip at the end of needle nose plyers for the last one.

1 week later
#11644 6 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I recently went through every image in the gallery for this thread to catch up, and there are photos of wear, but never a break.

Mine had this happen, but it has 2500 plays on it. Same type of break. Though on mine the broken foot stuck to the playfield so I really didn't need to do anything. Most people don't even notice. Shit, I didn't notice when it happened. I just looked one day and "oh, well then...."

5 months later
#12973 6 years ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

What type of bulb is the green snake bulb and where can you get it? Mine just blew

Don't buy the same bulb that Stern uses. They made a poor choice and it's not always easy to see, especially when other lights and flashers are going during multiball and stuff. Buy this one in green: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm

So much more visible without being any brighter. I recommend anyone change out the factory one for that one. You'll love the difference.

#12975 6 years ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

Its jist a normal 555? I put a different one in and it still didnt work. Ill have to check the socket

Yes, both the one I recommended and the factory one are 555. Some LEDs don't work because the metal contacts on the bulb get moved over. Push them a bit towards the outer edge and should work fine. If not, it's a dead bulb.

1 week later
#13075 5 years ago
Quoted from Koos:

I was aware of this but thanks for the heads up.
My local parts retailer sells normal Superjets and a “special low magnetic” version for use in pins with magnets. Does this makes sense? I do trust this retailer so if he specifically mentions this I assume it shouldn’t be an issue.
And thanks for confirming the amount of balls.

Silverjets, Titan Shiny, PB Life's old Oooh la la, and Ball Baron Ninja are ALL chrome pinballs. They will ALL magnetize over time in games with heavy usage of exposed magnets (Dialed In and TZ namely). There is no such thing as a "low magnetic" chrome pinball. Low magnetic balls are carbon pinballs. They are darker, less shiny, softer, and cheaper than chrome balls.

Having said that, I now have 440 games on my MET with Ball Baron balls, and no magnetism or weird issues to report. Prior to that, my MET ran 305 games with Titan Shiny balls, with no magnetism to report. I am not aware of anyone using chrome balls in their MET that has developed magnetism issues affecting game play.

1 month later
#13422 5 years ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Anyone else ever have to replace the little Cliffy-style protector in front of the snake? Mine has raised up slightly above the playfield and has become a ball trap at times. It looks like the newton ball (this is a pro) and the left post on the left ramp would have to be removed to take it out. I wonder if it's possible to bend it back to being straight, or if I'm going to go to the trouble to take it out, maybe I should just replace it. Anyone happen to know the part number of that piece offhand?

That protector is not necessary on the Pro. It can be removed. The ball hits the snake molding before it reaches the edge so it never wears. Have had it off for 3 years. Looks NIB.

5 months later
#14814 5 years ago

Any reliable ways to save audits and/or high scores via any 3rd party utilities?

1 week later
#14914 5 years ago
Quoted from Koos:

And the previous owner went the extra mile to also apply the total lightshow mod to the flipper area!

The full Total Lightshow Extra Mile Achievement® is unlocked by installing the flipper area - with the Premium/LE inlane rails so the middle light is playfield level.

3 months later
#15973 5 years ago

Anyone looking for a set of NOS backbox decals for the LE? Looking to sell cheap or trade for a set of Pro decals. PM me.

3 months later
#16476 4 years ago
Quoted from Matesamo:

Can anyone tell me if these are the original speakers that came stock on the machine?

No, Josh had told me he upgraded them.

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