(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

6 years ago

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  • 17,311 posts
  • 965 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Neal_W
  • Topic is favorited by 369 Pinsiders


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#1458 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

My magnets all stopped working. All the sudden the coffin magnet grabbed the ball, held it and the hammer never went down, and the magnet just kept holding it, then after it released it, ALL magnets in the game no longer work. Game does have the upgraded magnet board as I checked the Stern website and matched up my serial numbers. Any idea where to look? Has this happened to anyone elses Metallica? Thanks

I know of a few instances with the transistor shorting out on the magnet board. After changing the fuse, start the game with the coin door open (interlock disabled), get a ball and hold it near the coffin magnet, then pull out the interlock to enable high power. If the magnet energizes, your board is bad. Disable the high power immediately so the magnet coil does not overheat. Leave the magnet board unplugged and you can play the game with the other magnets (disable the hammer in adjustments and set the coffin lock to captive ball virtual locks) until you get it fixed.

EDIT looks like you already got it resolved. Hope they figure out why these are locking on!

#1506 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

New member present with wifey . You guys think we could install this live snake mod we found ?
This game is WeirPinball's personal machine that I helped acquire for him since he's moving to his new home soon. Beautiful game - he did a wonderful job with some solid Pro mods. Nice to finally just play a game and not have to work, work, work on one ...

Congrats! I bet we could hot-glue that live snake mode on top of the right ramp return... I'll load up the gluegun and head up this week

1 week later
#1557 5 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

With a metal post there I can just see myself cringing every time someone pulls the plunger all the way back and it connects with a thud. Granted, an orbit shot does the same..

"Someone" needs to learn the super skill shot No reason for any plunge to hit that post when the playfield super or lane 2x is much more lucrative than the normal skillshot.

2 months later
#2034 5 years ago
Quoted from tamoore:

They don't appear to stack for me. I asked a pinball pro friend of mine what I was doing wrong on my machine, since I couldn't start grave marker with coffin going, and he told me they don't stack.

He's wrong, all three stack w Coffin.

#2036 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Hammer - I wouldn't miss the hammer by itself but I would miss the ball lock feature by the balls going into the playfield thus this is a feature I would miss. If the hammer was smaller it would be even better.

Once you add a shaker, and an external sub with the crossover low and the volume cranked, Metallica's hammering of the ball through playfield becomes the loudest, coolest and most intense special-effect ever put in a pinball. Crank that sub up and watch people nearby jump in fright when you score a lock! Replace the game's 8" speaker with another amplified sub for more boom!

#2040 5 years ago
Quoted from Jnewton:

The way it's tapped in to the picks some may not agree with, but it's a great mod IMO.

Owners can do what they want to their games, but this has a significant impact on rules, making blackened easier to get, along with the snake add a ball.

#2107 5 years ago

Did you use the game's +12v for any mods? Check to see the 12 volt supply is still good, fuses, etc.

#2144 5 years ago

He's close, but not Sparky. Maybe Sparky's long lost brother?

Edit: more info here


3 months later
#3381 4 years ago

Do this


Use the EQ on the amp connected to the cab speaker to boost the bass to your liking. Connect your powered sub inputs to this already-boosted bass (on the output of the amp, at the cab speaker) and it'll really boom. Make sure your sub can handle the amp's output, but it's not really all that high (compared to HT setups)

#3495 4 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Thanks, guys. I'll give it a shot next time I get there.

You have to kill Sparky to get the big points. 10 hits = 15M finishing bonus and lights up shots all over the playfield for jackpots. Not sure what the actual values are because I may have had 2x running, but was seeing 1.5 to 3.5M at times. I'd been ignoring Battery for a while but decided I wanted my initials up for it, and managed to get 125M.

#3507 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Again, I think it's a cool mod and I'm not trying to downgrade it at all but I just think we should be a little more careful on how it's described/compared.

Can it do the Blackened (four horsemen) GI effects? Those are awesome!

3 months later
#4419 4 years ago
Quoted from EricR:

Ugh.. I just had a 227M game where I did absolutely nothing with my CIUs. Made it to 3 of them and scored about 20M combined, draining during each.. to think of what could have been..

Buddy played the other day and got 145M without a sinngle crank it up. Kept getting multiballs, ball just wouldn't go in the hole.. the one time it did with CUI lit, the mystery was also lit and awarded coffin MB start, so it f*cked him over LOL

5 months later
#5932 4 years ago

Just a note, there have been studies showing cheap 3d printers emitting a fair bit of toxins and vapors. Make sure whatever printer you get is rated good and has proper ventilation.

#5950 4 years ago

If you listen real close, you can hear a high-pitch hum when the magnet is in "seek" mode (lock is lit, sensing for nearby ball to lock onto). Possibly you're hearing this, or some interference caused by the strobing.

#5993 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

What exactly do you want your distro to do for you anyway?

Send him decals that have stronger glue? Not everyone has loctite professional epoxy laying around, and decals shouldn't peel off a new game.

Maybe it's decals that's holding up production at Stern.. metal backboxes with matte finishes going through warm/cold cycles.. gonna need a good sticker!

2 weeks later
#6228 3 years ago

Hold flipper to disable post, then plunge to lit skillshot lane w.o moving the light (I think) .. if you can make the right lane with no post or moving the light (just nudging), you get double (2M+)

#6243 3 years ago

Anytime the post activates, the ball should stop and go to the upper lanes/pops. It should never return back the way it came. Installing the metal post helps ensure the ball always goes to the pops.

1 month later
#6806 3 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

it is well known that sound reproduction on Whitestar/SAM Sterns is lesser quality than most 90's pins, particularly with Williams DCS

SAM has better frequency response than DCS, which cuts off around 9khz. SAM has superior sound, although DCS (designed in the early 90s) is technologically superior compression.

FF kits are garbage IMHO. My MetLE came with a kit and it sounded muddy. Too much bass, not enough mids or highs and the backbox speakers were underutilized. A person is better off simply replacing the factory backbox speakers with coaxial models and adding an external sub.

1 week later
#6931 3 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

Sounds like a crossover adjustment is needed. FF speakers are coax, so it's misleading to say someone is better off doing exactly that.

I'm saying, buy a set of coax speakers and skip the rest of the FF stuff. You can get decent 4" coax speakers from Parts Express for $15-20 a pair. Can also get a good 8" Pyramid cab sub for $18ish. Much cheaper than $100+ the FF kit costs, and no bad crossover setup to kill the mids and highs.

#6932 3 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

agree that leaving the backbox speakers stock is best, but the FF cabinet speaker is great. I think the best approach (which I hope to try soon) is an external subwoofer, FF cabinet woofer and

The stock backbox speakers are garbage. Seriously.. pull one out and inspect it... the magnet is tiny, it's a tight paper-only cone with minimal efficiency, and no separate tweeter. A $15 set of coaxial replacements sound much better, even with no other mods.

#6938 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The FF kit doesn't have crossovers except on the sub.. which isn't in circuit with the backbox speakers.. so what cha talkin bout?

There is a dial on the sub that controls how much volume the backbox speakers make. In theory, it "increases" bass by lowering the other speakers. Even at full volume, the backbox speakers sounded muffled and low. Maybe the set was defective... not sure. I removed the FF sub and put in my own Pyramid 8", kept the backbox speakers and added two amps/EQs and adjusted the output to what I like. Oh, and of course the ubiquitous undercab sub. I can say without a doubt, the game sounds as good as any pinball cabinet producing 24khz mono audio can possibly sound now

2 months later
#7680 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Thanks. This is a good suggestion for updating Metallica.

Metallica won't need it. If you'd actually *read* the instructions they provide, you'll see Spider Man is the only game requiring key-re-entry, because the ROM file is so large it overwrites it:


Edited, the instruction clearly state to write the damn thing down. Your rant against them quite unwarranted!

#7684 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

If that was the only time I was stuck entering a key, I'd agree. Unfortunately it's far from the case. Any DRM that requires emailing someone to use what you've paid for deserves a rant. Everyone should be up in arms. It's sad to live in a world where this type of DRM is accepted

The only time a key needs to be entered is when you're upgrading an old display that was originally sold to work with one particular game only. Remember that the first colorDMDs would only work on the game you bought it for. They did us a HUGE favor by changing it so that you could move the display to other games by uploading different firmware. All you had to do was unlock the display *once* by entering a key. A key they would email within hours of you sending the unlock code.

If you've had to enter multiple keys, that means you had multiple old displays that were locked to their original games, and had to be unlocked to make them universal. Would you have preferred colorDMD simply left the old displays locked to their original game so you COULDN'T move them? ColorDMD does everyone a solid and all you can do is bitch about a few minutes entering codes? (ok the code entry/switch debounce issue is bad, but still...)

#7750 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

What I mean to say is, the sound quality will probably not be any better if you change the speakers. If you search threads, maybe even this one, you will find some more info on that. The sub is really the best option. I'm just saying spending money on speakers will probably not give you the results you want.

New speakers will help - the stock speakers are utter garbage. A good set of coaxials will improve the sound, but for best sound, put a pair of amp/EQs in there along with new speakers.

#7822 3 years ago
Quoted from mslow:

I just had the same problem! Thanks for posting your problem. Flashing was so rapid, it almost made me puke. I had to turn the game off!

Under the playfield, towards the middle.. look for a power connector to the LED board - IDC with red and black wire only. Reseat this (with game power off) and see if problem goes away.

1 month later
#8273 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

the large majority seems to love that 'creeping death' side art and light bar kit for metallica and I just don't get it. The art doesn't match the game and the big light structure looks bad to me, so it's not my thing at all. Most people dig it thought, which is great for them (and the guy who makes the kit)

I agree that thing looks hideous .. additional lighting effects are always nice, but those big elevated metal bars running the length of the playfield wreck the aesthetics of the game. And yea, the art clashes with the rest of the stock art. To each their own....

2 years later
#15272 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Get Flipper Fidelity with the big sub speakers! Sounds great! And does’t exaggerate the lows as much as an external sub. And with the extra volume control you can nicely balance the lows without shaking the house.

Depends on what you're looking for.. we have a 200watt external sub and totally enjoy shaking the house on hammer locks or CIU jackpots... I mean, it's Metallica for chrissakes..

#15279 1 year ago
Quoted from bsobie:

You can’t turn the sub up very much.... you just want enough bass to match your highs... the sub adds a depth to the game play that once felt you won’t do without a sub after that.

Problem is the factory game has no highs... most of the sound comes out of the cabinet speaker, and the $2 crap backbox speakers don't even have a whizzer cone, let alone a separate tweeter. Replace the factory speakers when you add a sub and it'll sound good.

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