Ho, ho, ho... here's a holiday freebie.
I wasn't happy with the uneven lighting of the four lights (cross, electric chair switch, coffin, and snake) down by the flippers. So I designed a light holder for all four lights that centers them on their inserts so you get even illumination.

Met_4-lights-model (resized).jpg

I left off the holes on the mounting tabs because it appears that Stern was not very precise/consistent about where they screwed in the 4 light mounts. So I leave it up to you to drill the bracket where you want them. I was able to use one of the existing screw holes on my playfield (and carefully tapped a new hole for the other side). Also, to make printing easier, the mounting tabs are thicker than the originals, so you'll have to use screws that are ~1/4" longer.
Just remove the four old light mounts that are haphazardly screwed in, and replace with the new one-piece holder. Clip your lights in and you're done.
Here's a pic of the old mounts and the new printed replacement:

Met_4-lights-printed (resized).jpg

You can download the STL file from my site if you'd like to print your own: http://scoresaves.com/pinball/Met_4-lights.7z

I've printed up an extra one. First person to reply here can have it for free. I pay shipping.

Edit: Someone asked to see what the inserts look like with the new light holder. So here's a pic of what mine currently looks like. I just used what I had on hand for colored LEDs (the white I used under the cross is a bit brighter than the others, but I think it still looks OK in person so I doubt I'll bother to change it).

Met_insert-lights (resized).jpg

Send me your address and I'll get it mailed out.

I use a 3D printer (fused filament fabrication) with ABS plastic. A print of this size takes about 2 hours (including heat-up and cool-down).

Sure, I can make one for you. Send me a PM.

Yes, units are mm.

Not sure if it was down, but my site is up now. If you have any trouble just let me know and I'll email the file to you directly.

More freebies coming soon.... Can you guess what these are?

Met-slingprots (resized).png

Bingo!
Printing them out now in transparent filament. I'll take pictures of them installed and lit up when ready.

OK, got the slingshot plastic protectors finished up. Had to make a some corrections... I'd made a couple stupid drafting errors. Anyway, here they are installed:

Met-protectors-installed (resized).jpg

protector-left-installed (resized).jpg

They spread the light nicely and give a cool edge glow. Looks pretty classy.
Here's what they look like just off the printer:

Met-protectors (resized).jpg

And here's one lit up, before putting the sling plastic on top:

justprotector-lit (resized).jpg

You can download the STL files from my site if you'd like to print your own: http://scoresaves.com/pinball/Met_slingprotectors.7z
There are separate STL files for each side. I print them one at a time to keep the prints cleaner (I'm guessing you probably don't need to do that with high-end printers). The protectors are 2mm thick. If you prefer them thicker/thinner, just scale the Z. For FFF printer settings, I use the maximum infill (so they're as solid as possible), 0.2mm layer height, and "thick shells" (which creates an extra run around the perimeter). The material I'm using is transparent ABS. You could use nylon, PETG, PLA... whatever floats your boat. And, of course, you could print them in whatever color you like. Personally, I don't like altering artwork colors, so I stick with clear. When they're done, I like to sand the edge a bit to make them perfectly smooth and even.

What? Don't have your own 3D printer yet? I can crank out a few of these for folks that want them. Hit me up with a PM. Let's say $20 shipped (in the US). Offer valid until I run out of clear filament, get tired of making them, or the printer breaks down (which happens all too often!).

Tip jar: https://www.paypal.me/scoresaves

I think this is a great idea. I'm going to follow your example. Thanks!

I have the stock protector, and I’ve never seen an airball off Sparky....

Easy fix... install one of these: http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1892.htm

I don’t. Not a fan of the “monsters”. Rather have the Pro translite. Now, if you can find someone selling Master of Puppets....

See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/252#post-4233083

I did the same. It looks much better, and you never have to mess with that spot again!

It's the hex post that moves. You can't crank it down because you'll break the slingshot plastic. Same thing happens on my AC/DC. Drives me crazy.

I'm now making the CIU 4-light panels with mounting slots (so you don't have to drill them):

Met-CIU-light-bracket (resized).png

(see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/246#post-4145512 for the original post)
Price is still just $15 shipped.

OK, final version. I've thinned the mounting tabs to normal thickness so you can use the original screws. Now installation should take just a couple minutes... remove(unscrew) the 4 individual light holders, screw this light holder in place (re-using 2 screws, hopefully in the existing holes), and pop your lights in.

Met-CIU-4light (resized).jpg

So the spinners now award the pick shots? I don't think I like that....

I believe you can only bypass the Sparky animation with a double-flip if the magnet doesn't catch the ball and a playfield switch is triggered.

Used up the rest of my white filament, and posted them for sale: https://goo.gl/FbZsZJ

Look at post #17 and #18, about the gap tool. Binding often happens due to people not setting that gap properly. If it's too tight then it will bind once things warm up and expand.

The song names displayed are just text strings that can be changed with Pinball Browser. Very simple to do.

Sorry, I don’t have it in front of me... but I think there is a Messages tab where you can search for and modify strings.

The IRL540 is fine. A bit steep at Marco.... You can get them for $1 or less in quantity.

I don’t think it matters for this application.

P.S. Don’t buy any transistors from China sources....

With this you can use whatever LED color you want:

https://goo.gl/FbZsZJ

Auction is for US sales. Contact me with your address for international.

I feel the average score has gone up. But I haven't played it enough yet to attain my previous high scores.
I think Lyman has done a nice job of balancing. And he fixed a couple bugs that always annoyed me... so I'm very happy!
I'm praying he can throw out another quick update on AC/DC to make that perfect. Oi!

If you can’t pull it off, just cut it length-wise with a razor.

I have a couple CIU light bracket "seconds" I'd like to get rid of. One is the old style with the thick mounting tabs (so it requires longer screws), and the other has oversized mounting slots (so it will likely need washers on the screws). Otherwise the same as the ones I sell on eBay. $13 shipped each. PM with your preference.
CIU-brackets_2nds (resized).jpg

Why wouldn’t they just buy the belt buckle off of eBay for $14 shipped?

I took mine off several months ago, and I’ve had the ball pop off once with a crazy fast shot up the ramp.... IIRC, it ended up in the shooter lane. So no big deal.
Snake protector? That seems like a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist....

But is it really needed? That is his question. If it was interfering with operation, I’d just remove it.

Mine doesn’t do that. I have an original run Pro.

His makes the beeping sound as well.... I don’t get that.

Dimpled balls indicates that they were not properly hardened. Replace them. Try some from another source.

They should be fine. I just wouldn’t leave them in long term. I take my balls out every few months and polish them in a Berry vibratory tumbler. If I find any balls with nicks or dimples, they get tossed.

My opinion is "none". I don't think it's necessary if the magnet height is properly adjusted and this is a home machine that is properly cared for (waxed and balls polished and replaced as needed). If you insist on putting something down, go with mylar.

A little epoxy and that’ll be better than new.

They will work either way.

If you are replacing the stock speakers (and you should), buy 4 Ohm speakers, wire them in series (like the diagram), but remove that cap. I then replace the cabinet speaker with a real subwoofer (preferably with a crossover to remove the high frequencies). Some like to add an amp for the woofer, but if you pick one with a high enough sensitivity (~90dB) then you really don't need it. The stock amp will provide plenty of thump when you crank it up.

It’s not needed (or desirable) if you used good full-range speakers. The cap acts as a simple crossover (to help the crappy speakers), and also changes the effective impedance. Remove it (you can just shunt it out) and you should notice more volume.

Regarding Charles’ speaker wiring, that is what I saw on my Metallica as well (they had the polarity wrong). I corrected this when I put new speakers in.

The music is limited to 24kHz mono... so there's only so much you can do. Throwing a bunch of hi-fi equipment in there is a waste. Spend ~$20 on a pair of decent backbox speakers, and toss a subwoofer in the cabinet and you'll have a rockin' pinball. Just don't expect it to compete with a typical stereo system. It's a pinball machine.
A good source for cheap subwoofers is craigslist. Yesterday I picked up a Cambridge Soundworks sub with two 8" drivers in it for $20! One of those is going into my Iron Maiden....

For backbox speakers, I've used these a couple times:

https://www.amazon.com/Car-Sound-Speaker-Pair-Non-fatiguing/dp/B000230LBI

Last time I bought them they were on sale for $14 a pair, but now they're up to $22. Still a good deal. I see these are the speakers PinWoofer is using.
Recently I tried these, which are only $13:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR5W53V

So far they seem to perform just as good as the Pyles, and I prefer the black look.

Who said it doesn't make a difference? I upgrade the speakers in all my music pins, and they sound great. Huge improvement. Everyone who comes over to play is impressed. All I'm saying is that you don't have to break the bank to do it.

bf (resized).jpg

Strange that you would agree with something that was never stated. Nobody called you a liar. Possibly confused... maybe wrong... but not a liar. Why would someone lie about something like that? That person would have to be pretty messed in the head....

They are not.

I like Lyman's.... I can actually read it.

That looks like a poor imitation of my light bracket (posted in this thread). First person to respond gets a free bracket.

It’s yours! PM me your address.

Dumb is having a distributor that doesn't do anything....

You could... but the original fangs look better (IMO). I think I’d try my best to fix the original head.

I've heard that, but I haven't seen one (maybe there's a pic somewhere in this thread?). I have an original Metallica with a lot of plays on it. Fangs are still healthy.

Yes, Pro. Built May 14, 2013. You guys have me worried my snake is going to need dental work.

Flippers won't cancel the Sparky routine. What's likely happening is that the flipper action is sometimes triggering some other playfield switch. Any switch closure will cancel the Sparky execution. If you install an external volume control, that switch will also cancel the routine.

I've always cleaned/lubed shooter rods with a silicone spray like this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Heavy-Duty-Silicone-Lubricant-11-Wt-Oz/16817419
If it looks particularly nasty when I get a game, I'll take the rod out and polish it first (metal polish on a rag, spin it with a drill).

Problems getting a good manual launch are almost always due to the rod not being centered on the ball. Seen this a lot on newer Stern machines... right out of the box. Seems their assembly needs a little better QC. Moving the shooter housing is not always easy either.

Same here. No hole, and no graphics to indicate a hole there. Mine is a first-run Pro.

I like the LED version because it's cleaner, and I prefer the look of dots. I say try the LED. If you don't like it, I'll buy it from you.

Why so much? Did you choose overnight shipping?!?!

Ah, OK. I live in tax-free NH, so I never think of that.

I had that problem after I replaced the targets with new ones (I had one break). Turned out the new targets were slightly warped. Heated them up with heat gun and bent them a bit so that the lips caught properly when reset. Worked perfectly after that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/365#post-6129049

Yikes.... Those slings are not going to last long.

One of them is a shaker filter board: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-6934-00
Not sure what the other two are, but they have Stern part numbers on them.

I'm not a fan of that dual-color version. Much prefer a single EL wire to the helmet. Looks better, and makes more sense (for an actual electrocution helmet).

Yikes! What a rip. Same place sells a Metallica belt buckle that you can find for $10 as a "custom sign" for $75.

No, I would use the ones that just have forward elements.

There are a couple different mini-post rubber sizes; 3/8" OD and 7/16" OD. One of them (maybe the 7/16?) has a smaller ID and fits tighter on the post. You could also try the polyurethane versions (e.g. "Super-Bands"), as they seem to fit tightly and are very durable.

Stock speaker grills are plain.

I take pride in beating the shit out of Sparky.... Why do you think that punk deserves a shoe shine?

Metallica Club - JACK-FUCKING-POT!!!

Oh no... the bash toy is getting bashed! Maybe we should print him a skirt too....

I would not buy a replacement. Broken feet can be fixed. Stronger than original. I'm a master with epoxy!
Don't throw your crippled Sparky away... I'll happily take him and give him a new life.

Someone did a native PIN2DMD colorization (so you don’t need to change the game code). I have no experience with it, so no idea how complete it is or how it compares with the SmartDMD version.

https://dirtydonnystore.com/cdn/shop/products/hendrix1_900x.jpg

Blackened is started by collecting all 4 band members by hitting the 4 pick targets. 10 pick target completions.

No, not at all. People usually hook them up to the pick target switches so they get sounds when they spin. That of course screws with the regular rules, making some things easier (e.g. add-a-ball in multiball, progress to Blackened). Personally, I would only want them if they had their own independent reward. Being connected to the picks, a good rip to the spinners is meaningless.