(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

6 years ago

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#710 5 years ago
Quoted from movingpictures:

Just made some custom apron cards...enjoy!
I'm gonna print and install them today, pics when done.
Print size is:
5in x 3.5in
14cm x 7.6cm

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Don't you mean the size of the cards are 5 1/2 in. X 3in? Had someone measure his stock cards on his Met and he put them on a ruler grid and emailed me the pic's and it was 5 1/2 x 3 inch. Just a heads up before someone gets them the wrong size.

3 weeks later
#715 5 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

Added a few things to my Pro yesterday. A shaker motor and the snake tongue I picked up at MPE a few weeks back. Love the shaker! It feels more powerful then the one I have in Apollo13. I was pleasantly surprised. And it only took 10 minutes to put in. nice!

shaker motor.jpg 36 KB

snake tongue.jpg 41 KB

Now you need the fangs and the LED eyes, then the snake will be complete.

1 month later
#730 5 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I put a shaker motor in my Metallica Premium tonight and I have to say I am disappointed. It feels like it's barely used compared to ACDC where it's simply fantastic! It's set for maximum use too.

my premium will be here in a few days. I never played a pin with a shaker. I will report back after playing a few hours. Thursday or Friday.

1 week later
#802 5 years ago

Just got my premium on Wednesday10441979_10202005019516825_2409929823338726560_n.jpg10399983_10202005019276819_456455038672367179_n.jpg10527331_10202005007316520_5174351029717947404_n.jpg

1 week later
#834 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Right on, Is that an external sub I see??

Yes, a Polk PSW-10

#835 5 years ago

Iam also noticing where the ball drops on the inlane switch blade from the right wire form ramp, it has bent it towards the side of the slot touching the wood. Can I bend this over, or do I have to replace it? The left ball drop in the inlane appears fine, but the right one when it drops off ramp, it slams the blade into the side of the cut out slot. Thanks.

#837 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yes, it's only a wire.

I'll try it, thanks.

#878 5 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

The only thing that got me to stop being mad that I missed out on a deal for a purpled up Refinery Premium earlier in the year was picking up my LE, they made it a great looking machine.

ya on there basic upgrade package they include purple powder coated wireform ramps as well. I'am enjoying mine. I do notice a flipper issue, but the flipper bat mayber the culprit. At rest, the left flipper sits higher then the right flipper bat, it is just above the playfield, where the left one is what i'am use to seeing. I pulled them both and everything seems ok, so not sure what is causing it to look off some. They are not the stock bats, they are chrome bats.

1 week later
#911 5 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

I never realized this until recently..but I don't think I'd rather have any other machine (maybe MB) except my Metallica at this point.

My Metallica premium is my only machine.

Quoted from S37VEN:

My mylar over sparky and grave marker have held up really well but my magnets are perfectly flush with the playfield. I could see this being an issue if the magnet isn't flush.

ya, I just wax around the area real good. I'am not to worried really. Level magnets with playfield and wax is key.

#916 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Sounds to me like the metal shaft is bent or where it goes into the plastic bat is crooked.

I'll have to post a pic. My concern obviously is that it don't drag, and it not real close, but it lowers then the left bat. I have not noticed any difference when the ball is hit of the bat. Seems to all be grounded on the playfield (no air balls off flippers) I'am gonna buy more bats and see whats the deal, as visually everything sseems like it should. My other though was maybe the playfield is a bit warped in this area, and make it seem higher. Anyone ever experience this? It the appearance that seems to bother me, but playing you forget about it!

#917 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Good choice! I know you were initially hesitant to add a sub. What do you think?

ya, its great especially the hammer drop, best thing in pinball, when your sub. is cranked and you have a shaker, what an experience!!

#918 5 years ago
Quoted from grh450:

Very cool!....congrats
I wonder if I could come over and check it out???

sure bro anytime

1 week later
#984 5 years ago

I went ahead and disabled the diverter. I like this way, nice clean orbit shots, and if your good, you can hit the orbit consecutively a few times. I also lowered the number of hits, for coffin, grave marker, and sparky.

Sometimes I'am noticing that the Sparky magnet is not holding the ball when sparky gets electrocuted. When multi-ball is gonna start it will hold the ball then. Is this how its suppose to be, I cant remember, but noticed it over the weekend. Killer game!

#985 5 years ago
Quoted from cwell:

Just put up 74 mil. Damn this game is fun when you know what to shoot for and when! Watched the PAPA video earlier this morning and realized after you start multiball you shoot the picks then the snake to add a ball. very cool. does anyone know if PAPA is going to do a video for 1.6?

cool, that's key learning what to shoot for, and my problem is Iam focused on keeping the balls alive instead of cradling a ball or two during multi- ball to line up a shot. crazy fun pin.

1 week later
#1100 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Sure, here ya go.

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Where can I go to buy this mod?
What does it hook into? Take my money....

#1107 5 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Argh! Sorry to hear about this! I wonder what happens to the damaged games?

fixed and sold at auctions I would imagine. Beyond repair, I'd say spare parts machine!

got it, thanks man

#1111 5 years ago


Its my Metallica premium's bday today.
I only owned it since July, bought it new from Gio at pinball refinery.
He said he received quite a few metallicas built from Aug. 2013

#1131 5 years ago

I bought the MDM for Metallica from Sparky. Anyone on the fence, its an excellent mod for your metallica machine.

10347488_10202280220436676_2806572856165561338_n.jpg1920600_10202281306863836_2297810631167939556_n-759.jpg1932393_10202280222396725_8644899948344717138_n-51.jpg10533385_10202280220956689_5154549761928390008_n.jpg10003906_10202280218516628_2285431843805223762_n.jpg// Error: Image 277976 not found //

#1135 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Ill be getting the MDM for sure when I get home, and I love the ideas for different songs. I was glad Blackened got it, but Ride the lightning is a def. replacement song for me...

you'll like it. When your not playing, and its in attract mode, hit the right flipper button and hold it there for the jukebox mode select song, and watch the MDM. Its like watching a music video! Non pinball people gather and check it out, it draws them in, they wanna see more.

1 week later
#1154 5 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

BTW when you do get to your 15-month shopout, I highly recommend swapping in white rubbers everywhere. I should have posted before pics - lots of "skidmarks" in the orbits from the black rubber.
EDIT: Plays like new too, unfortunately. I'm bricking most of my grave marker shots.

I noticed this as well,both corners of the ramps & the orbits corners. What product did you use on mteal ramps?

#1155 5 years ago

Does Metallica have a "Midnight Madness" or any other unique things when the clock strikes midnight? I know on some wpc games this madness happens.

#1161 5 years ago

On the first ball when you select the song, hold left flipper and plunge the ball, why does the song change?
I put in settings where it says"song locked on plunge" I put "yes", but when you select your song and plunge ball, it still changes the song. What am I doing wrong?

Also any important things in settings/dianostics I should change? I don't know half the stuff in the settings, so some help is needed and appreciated. Game is a monsters premium.

Quoted from n0s4atu:

I'm still loving this game, but wondering why it's "casket" in the call outs, but the dots say coffin.

I'am wondering about this too, as it was always like this on the very first code, and they have not changed it yet! It's minor, but curious what happen there.

#1163 5 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Umm...hmmm....doesn't on mine. Unless of course you are "selecting" you song, then hitting the flipper & plunging.
EDIT: Mine is all fac settings

yes, press start button, select song, then hold left flipper button (for the skill shot) and plunge ball. When I do this it changes the song, but on ball 2 and 3 it don't change song, just on the first ball.

1 week later
#1184 5 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

External sub. Volume around 44-46. Sound attenuation +8; music attenuation default at 0 to prevent preemptive music cuts in end of ball sequence and game over.

How do you know the numbers on the sub.? My polk only has hash marks, not numbers. You said 44-46, do you mean the volume on the machine itself?

#1185 5 years ago
Quoted from EricR:

I just joined the club yesterday (Roadcase Premium), my first NIB purchase.

nice man, I got the monster premium and it was my first NIB as well.

2 weeks later
#1249 5 years ago

What made me look closer at this, was because of the ball coming right back at the flipper when the shot is made up there .Can you all check left ramp and ball guide there on left side/ If you look in the pic's you can see the issue. It must have been installed like this from factory, I only had this game since July, about 200 plays or so. That guard rail is bent all the way down. Tried bending with fingers but she not budging. No way ball strikes did this on such little plays. The edge of ramp is getting direct hits and is starting to get bashed.



#1252 5 years ago

I wonder if loosening those two wooden screws on the ramp flap would allow me to slide it over some. If you see my pic, it seems it could slide some to the left which will put the edge lined up with the guard rail. Would I need to make new holes under the ramp flap after adjustment?

#1254 5 years ago

I will have to look to see if its bolted. If it is, how do I go about straightening it out?

#1259 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Run nuts the complete length if the threads, put that in a vise then bend the unthreaded part with whatever will work but something without teeth as not to mar the part surface, something like a cresent wrench.

Haven't checked yet, but your saying the guard rail is secured from under the playfield with nuts? I though these were hammered into the playfield. Anyways If I don't have a vise, what other options is there to straighten it? Would Stern replace something like this?

#1260 5 years ago

I sent an inquiry to Stern to see what they say.

#1271 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I can't get at my game that's why I asked you to check yours.

No it doesn't not go through the playfield. It was advised not to try and remove, the only option here is to bend it in place where it is. Gonna try locking pliers, with some tape and a rag on the rail to not to do damage, and get the pliers on there and bend it slowly. Gonna attempt without removing anything, it has some space.

1 week later
#1339 5 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

works great. the only thing I have heard can happen is the captive ball can become magnetized and the ball in play can get stuck to it.. Might have to swap the ball out if that happens but I am not worried about it.
It allows for all sorts of good grazing shots to sparky and left ramp. also opens up the middle a bit from the right flipper.

I have had something like this happen twice, but the ball was not stuck to the captive ball, it was stuck in the middle between the captive ball and casket magnet, so when hammer came down the ball still went in the casket, weird, but has only happened twice out of a lot of plays.

Can't seem to rack up a lot of points, only been to 2 CIU modes, only can get Blackend and Lady Justice going. I have not gotten to S&D or any other modes. I did get to FUEL mode, but have no idea how I did it. Fun game though, as I'am still learning the rules. My highest score is 270million and change. I see a lot of people with 400 million plus scores or better, would like to be up in this bracket as scores go.

#1340 5 years ago
Quoted from callmesteam:

Unforgiven plays at the end.

I'am not hearing any songs at the end of games, it does its light show and that's it.
It plays the whole song of Unforgiven?

#1353 5 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I think you need to change the setting that says something like features continue from ball to ball. Otherwise you arent likely to get S&D. Well at least im not.
I think there is a similar setting for band members resetting after each ball.

What should I change it too to get other modes? I don't get it, so in the wild/route you wont get S&D unless the OP changed a setting? Help me understand Rick, thanks in advance.

#1355 5 years ago

would you L.E./premium owners replace your hammer with this? I was wondering if any modders would do a replacement, but this is not what I expected!

ebay.com link » Metallica Pinball Hammer Replacement Mod Premium Le

1 week later
#1405 5 years ago

Hi guys, loving this great game.
I have noticed my last two games the ball has gotten stuck/hung up on the snake jaw and the stand up target next to it. A shake of the machine would not release it, always have to slide the glass and free it with a finger. It never did this before, and nothing looks as its out of adjustment. Kinda weird it JUST started doing this. It did it only 3 times, all 3 and my last two games, and I played 7 altogether last night. Snake was adjusted by distributuor when I bought it new and had other things put on. Had machine since 2nd of July.

#1407 5 years ago

No, it hasn't moved none. I was thinking that as well, but its still the same. It is abit over toward the right to clear for snake shot, has always been like this. Just weird it started doing this, never a problem with stuck ball there. I do have to change the setting where you get the ball back if you have to pull the glass. My wife finally made it to her first CIU mode, and then it got stuck, ball 3 to, ended her game, she was pissed. She tried rocking the machine side to side, but it wouldn't release. I really didn't like seeing the machine on 2 legs back and forth, I guess it did no harm, game didn't tilt, just DANGER kept coming on. What do you do when a stuck ball occurs on any machione shake the machine or just open up the glass to release ball?

#1411 5 years ago

Heres some pic's. Where the black " X " is, that's where the ball gets hung up.10418365_10202644919993937_1835941185862354893_n.jpg10516850_10202644920313945_2105350871150556336_n.jpg10600483_10202644921833983_8922117753046746294_n.jpg

#1413 5 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I was also getting balls stuck on the front lip of the snake.

The ball gets hung up the right side up against the post and standup target while its sitting in the right corner of the snake bottom jaw.

Quoted from Sparky:

Can you put a different style or larger rubber post ring on that post behind the standup?

That is a bigger mini post super band then the black one I replaced it with.

#1416 5 years ago
Quoted from lllvjr:

So Metallica premiums are no longer being made. People still gobbling up what's left of them... Modern day Medieval Madness going to start climbing in value as stern keeps shitting out everything sub par to it since... Anyone agree?


There is some on ebay available, and I see the prices have gone up quite abit since I got my monsters premium.

#1417 5 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Not without more code updates. Having owned my Metallica for a few months now, I see all sorts of flaws with the code. Luckily, Lyman is a kick add programmer and these issues are easily resolved with tweaking feature adjustments.
What's wrong with the code you might ask? Well, to put it bluntly, it's linear. I know, blasphemy to call a Lyman game linear, but it takes too much effort and time to get the ruleset moving. Don't get me wrong, the rules for each mode and mb appear to be classic Lyman genius ness. But it takes so long to get the ball rolling on the ruleset. There's just too much of a gap in between starting multiballs and playing modes that the game gets a little too repetitious on the side of mb's. What I did to fix this is made S&D inserts carry over ball to ball; lowered amount of shots to qualify CIU to 10 (down from 15); and lowered blackened band member qualifications to 1 (i think gotta check that).
What that does is disperses the ruleset to give more variety in less playtime. Working much better for me but besides the rules for each mode being kick ass and awesome, the ruleset is quite limited. ,

What are those setting numbers? I agree it does take awhile to get going, a few adjustments like you mentioned more "variety".

#1420 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Jeff - Both of those targets looks to be out of center. For the snake, try to push the stack back to the middle and see if that helps. You'll have to do it by hand vs playing it as once you hit that ramp a couple of times the stacks will go back to that position.
Also, what pitch is your game at? At 6.5 to 7 degrees it doesn't seem that would happen to easily just due to gravity. I almost wonder if you balls are slightly magnitized too.

6.5 degrees. Not sure what you mean about the snake stack. I'am changing balls out now, I have noticed about 3 times where they stick to the captive ball sometimes. Put balls in back in july when got the game, PBL's oh shinny ones.

#1424 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

The stack is the targets. They should be centered and yours are both leaning out from the ramp.

changed out the balls, played several games and it didn't happen again. Even tried to duplicate it by hand and couldn't. If I adjust those targets then they will be off centered. They are pretty much straight up and down.

#1425 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Jeff - Both of those targets looks to be out of center. For the snake, try to push the stack back to the middle and see if that helps. You'll have to do it by hand vs playing it as once you hit that ramp a couple of times the stacks will go back to that position.
Also, what pitch is your game at? At 6.5 to 7 degrees it doesn't seem that would happen to easily just due to gravity. I almost wonder if you balls are slightly magnitized too.

Where can the target go 85vette? ? It looks even and straight to me. I made sure Gio at PR centered and straighten them, out of the box, they were leaning real bad. What does yours look like or anyone elses look like? I will get those splints from metzelmods, in time, for peace of mind. Thanks for the help.


#1428 5 years ago

I have never gotten to Search and Destroy, its kinda frustrating to always get Lady Justice and Blackend and maybe get to one CIU and drain. I know I suck, but High score so far is 270 million have no idea what happened or how I got it. Things get crazy during multi-ball, I gotta cradle during multi-ball more, I don't, so the madness continues. Its fun game, even though I not scoring much, or seeing any other modes.

#1440 5 years ago

My magnets all stopped working. All the sudden the coffin magnet grabbed the ball, held it and the hammer never went down, and the magnet just kept holding it, then after it released it, ALL magnets in the game no longer work. Game does have the upgraded magnet board as I checked the Stern website and matched up my serial numbers. Any idea where to look? Has this happened to anyone elses Metallica? Thanks

#1452 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Check Fuse #7 behind the back glass. Mine blew once. Replaced it and no problems since

All your magnets go out (all 3) at once? Thanks, just got back from Radio Shack, 4A slow blow fuses. Busy today, but will try and get to it tonight or the morning. What would have caused it to blow? Thanks for reply Roostking.

#1457 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Hmm. 4A thats different than the fuse that blew on mine (7). Yep, mine went out at the same time as well. Fixed the fuse and all has been well since. My backglass light also went out roughly the same time(Afterwards) I wonder if I had some huge powersurge or something? This all happened about 2 months into playing and its been good for 5 months(Im back overseas for a bit again)

So, just a quick update, pulled the backglass and powered up the machine. F7 fuse LED was out, pulled the fuse and put in a new 4A slo blo, and powered machine on, and the fuse got bright red and blew! So I called Stern, spoke to Chaz, he had me unplug the main plug on the magnet board, put a new fuse in F7 and turn machine on, and the fuse did NOT blow. So Chaz says its the magnet board, and there sending another board to me. Keep in mind this was the upgraded board installed at factory, my serial number and Chaz had me check for a red dot on the I.C., and there was one. So I got a bad one, or did I over power it when I switched setting adjustment #89 abort hammer?The default is yes, I switched it to NO, and like 10 games later this happened. Would changing this setting overloaded the circuit? The hammer was getting more action when I change that setting. Someone on pinside here, said to change #89 adjustments to NO and no more problems with hammer, my hammer was fine and so was the magnet, but sometimes it would act up so I changed it anyway, cuz the responses from other pinsiders saying no more phantom strikes, and magnet grabbing stronger, made me want to do it. Or its just a bad board, it happens with mass produced things. Excellent customer service from Stern, and Gio at Pinball Refinery! Top notch all around!

#1460 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I will have to talk to Stern when I get home. Do they need the old board back??? Glad you got it figured out..

you having issues now?

Quoted from metallik:

I know of a few instances with the transistor shorting out on the magnet board. After changing the fuse, start the game with the coin door open (interlock disabled), get a ball and hold it near the coffin magnet, then pull out the interlock to enable high power. If the magnet energizes, your board is bad. Disable the high power immediately so the magnet coil does not overheat. Leave the magnet board unplugged and you can play the game with the other magnets (disable the hammer in adjustments and set the coffin lock to captive ball virtual locks) until you get it fixed.
EDIT looks like you already got it resolved. Hope they figure out why these are locking on!

After magnets stopped working, and I was trying to get the test the coffin magnet, the hammer never wanted to come down, just the captive ball hits just counted up NO hammer strikes. I figure if there is no initial magnet grab on the ball, then there would be NO signal sent to hammer to strike, without that grab of the magnet, no hammer strikes. Before the issues, the coffin magnet would grab the ball, but release ball early and the hammer came down striking nothing, that happened only 2 times. I never seen the hammer just come down for no reason, unless, like I said there was an initial grab by magnet.

#1461 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

So, turns out it's not wear, although I'm not sure whether that's good news or bad.
It seems like most of the inserts are either raised, a little lower than a mylar would be, or there's a tiny gap around them (see video).
I've never owner a Stern before, is that normal?

I thought the samething, but run your hand on the playfield, it should be smooth. At certain angles where light hits the playfield, mine looks wavy, and inserts like you said, then at other angles you see smoothness. Took my hand and ran across where I see this and its smooth. Iam gonna say normal, if its smooth. If its bumpy, grainy feel (orange peel texture) then no, not normal.

#1495 5 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Hey, curious how long you have owned your MET? Had the exact same thing happen with the magnet board 2 weeks ago. My importer wants to charge for the replacement board, but The game is 2 years old (is a Mople that was NIB until I bought it 6 months ago off the original purchaser).

I ordered it late June, received it July 2nd this year.
Marcos also sells these magnet boards as well.$70

1 week later
#1527 5 years ago

I received the magnet board replacement from Stern, installed it, and magnets really working good, better then when I got the machine new. So the board was faulty from the get go from factory, it was the upgraded board that failed.

Quoted from NPO:

Out with the turtle and in with the snake...!!!
Thank you Mezelmods and PinballLife

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Might want to put some mylar over the tongue. Had mine 4 months and seen wear on the tongue, so touched it up and put mylar over it. Just a heads up, as the ball skids on this decal into the snakes mouth.

#1596 5 years ago

No protective piece for Sparky with Pinbits protectors $25 kit. I got this kit and only put on the sling protectors. No piece for Sparky, But Rickwh, makes a Sparky protector, I bought one off him $5 shipped, just haven't installed it yet. Its regular clear piece not yellow like in the above photo though.

#1597 5 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Not my game, but I had the same airballs as this guy has.
Notice the ball is also bouncing off the bottom edge of the hammer. This happens with the block too, but at least you don't get the ball flying over the grave markers (with the ball) like at the beginning of the video.
» YouTube video

Just watched the entire video, and ya, that Cliffy protector is launching the ball. I don't get that happening on mine, I don't use those protectors, just wax around the areas is plenty good for the home environment!

#1651 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Anyone know if there is a way to test the magnet board? I've started to get some phantom hammer hits. Never happened before about a week ago. Now I'm getting 1 every two or three games. Any thoughts?

Just had replace mine (magnet board) Before the original went out was getting phantom hits, just a few, then soon after, F7 fuse blew and no magnets working, Stern sent me new magnet board and the magnets are working better then when I got the game new, but phantom strikes have happened twice in about 20 games. Even with a few phantom hits, this hammer is the coolest thing in pinball. Hammering pinballs into the playfield in a casket, epic, and, with the Polk sub, it really rumbles!

#1654 5 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

This may be a dumb question, but im not a premium/le owner so...
Is there a subway over to the mystery hole to let the balls out of the coffin? If so How fast do they shoot out for coffin mb?
Seems like that could be drain city if your mystery hole scoop was adjusted wrong.
Just never played a prem before and i dont recall seeing coffin mb startup in any videos.

Yes Rick, the balls come out of coffin and shoot out from mystery scoop. All balls shoot at the left flipper.

1 week later
#1715 5 years ago

Hi all, prem./L.E. owners, I'am getting bounce backs on the left spinner. Shoot the ball at the left spinner and it bounces back making a "clunk noise." Now, The spinner itself at rest, is not straight up and down, kinda tilted up at the bottom. I checked some of your photos and other Prem./ L.E.'s machines, and all seem like mine. Just wonder if this is normal, happens every game the left spinner rejects the ball, and of course sometimes it doesn't. Normal?

I also have a MDM display for sale if anyone is interested, $75 shipped

1 week later
#1778 5 years ago

So is anyone having the left spinner rejecting shot? I shoot the ball up there and the spinner kinda flip up some and the ball gets bounce back. Any ideas to fix/adjust? I checked other Metallica machines pic's and it looks the same. Want to know if anyone is experiencing this. Aurich or anyone else having this issue? Thanks

1 week later
#1826 4 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

Does anybody that has an EL wire mod on sparky have trouble keeping it stuck to his helmet? Mine keeps coming off and dangling near the pops. I put some double sided 3m tape on to try and re-enforce, but it still won't stay. I was thinking about using rubber cement next. Thoughts?

My wire actually goes into the helmet. Gio at PBR said it looks better this way, so I gave him the go on it, not sure what he used to secure the wire in there but it hasn't came out.

#1827 4 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I got my sparky protector installed and no more air balls there! I almost feel guilty only paying $5 for this!! Thanks again. I also printed out some custom apron cards, applied some carnuba wax to the playfield and pulled off the plastic deal that goes over the right side wireform. I really don't seen balls flying off of there. Upgraded the code to 1.63 as well.

yes Metallica owners, there is no need for that clear piece of plastic over the wireform. Mine has been removed since September and not one issue. Its a lot cleaner look to the game.

#1828 4 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

I am using the aluminum billet bats with black superbands. Metal! Looks awesome! Hopefully I will be able to add aluminum billet drops someday.

gotta pic? Who sells aluminum flipper bats?

#1829 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I'm not having any spinner rejects, no, haven't seen that. I assume you've tried hand flipping the spinner to check that it's spinning freely?

spins freely, just it does not sit vertical straight up and down when its at rest.. The bottom is lifted up some when spinner is a rest, so when a shot to the spinner happens it appears the ball hits in the lifted part of spinner, a clunk noise is heard and the ball rolls back to the flippers. It does not do this all the time, but it does do it every game, since I got it new. I seen pictures of other Metallica tables and the spinner isn't vertically straight up and down either, all seemed to lift up abit when at rest. It real frustrating to hear it go "clunk" and the ball comes back to the flippers. Don't know what adjustment can be made to level the spinner, anyone else have this issue?

#1833 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Heres a pic of some sparky plasitcs i made a few weeks ago. Hopefully u can see the original outline of the plastic and then where i made the new cut.

20141116_133802.jpg 108 KB

Hey RickH, finally put on the airball deflector.
Both holes did not line up, so had to use the dremel for a few seconds on each hole, its all good. Hex post and the lock nut cover up the imperfections of the bigger holes I made. 15 min.sparky.jpg

#1834 4 years ago

Trouble with the left spinner rejecting the ball, and bounce out back to flippers. Here's a pic. Nothing I see is the culprit, except maybe the spinner is not centered in the lane, its abit more towards the rail, but far enough where its not hitting. What do you see in the pic that looks NOT right or needs adjusting? Thanks

spin.jpg spinn.jpg
2 weeks later
#1884 4 years ago

Thanks for doing this for our Metallica's Rick! Much appreciated!

#1899 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

First off, share a pic of your magnet board, we can tell you if it's the new one or not.

That doesn't matter if its a new board or not. Mine had the new board in it, and it still failed. Thankfully Stern sent me a free replacement, but ya that little pink or red dot means squat.

#1900 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Why you might want to keep the ugly plastic next to the snake on.

image.jpg 228 KB

Whats on the hammer? Did you make it? Looks cool!

I haven't had any issues, you may have to adjust your wireform ramp. I helped someone at there house and he removed the guard, played some games, the ball was jumping off the ramp, adjusted the wireform ramp and 200 plays later his isn't jumping off, his is a pro. I have 300 plays on mine since removing it (premium) with no issues either.

#1903 4 years ago
Quoted from Pincrawler:

How would you "adjust" the ramp so that the balls don't fly off it?

Theres the nut on the sling and another above CIU, loosen them and you can move the ramp around a bit. Adjusting it was what worked on my buddies pro. I haven't had to adjust nothing and zero issues. Just my experience is all. I'am at 6.5 and leveled as well.

#1904 4 years ago

Real nice man, real fricken nice! You do awesome work Aurich!

1 week later
#2006 4 years ago

Anyone know if anymore code updates are coming out for our machines?

#2054 4 years ago

Sparky Has Been Sold!!


#2061 4 years ago

Sparky is sold!

#2106 4 years ago

My Metallica, I turned it on and barely have sound coming out of the backbox speakers, cabinet speaker, and my external sub is not working, but is on. I checked wiring and all and nothing. I have my volume at 42 always and it loud but now I have to max out volume just to get sound and it barely coming out.

Also have an opto switch problem, Grave Marker opto is out of service, not sure what to do here. Any ideas on what to check on this? The lights are on, but the notice is on the DMD saying "out of service"

Thanks in advance

#2123 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

It's a dangerous shot from the right flipper. Much better to back hand it from the left, safer way to shoot.

I figured that back hand shot out, back hand left flipper to drop target and nail it, ball comes back down, cradle and back hand again, repeat and start the gravemarker multiball. Did all this consecutively in a game, now I can do it all the time.

#2125 4 years ago

I had not played my machine for like 3 weeks, and when I went to play it last week I noticed it was having a sound issue on my Premium. Volume is up at 45, and we all know that's a good level, nice and loud, nope sounds like its at 20, Polk sub barely thumps. All speakers work, but just not loud. So I pulled J10 and reseated and no improvement. So called my distributor, he said its sound like a bad CPU board, for me to call Chaz at Stern's tech. support. So I contacted Chaz, he walked me through some things, and he determined it was a bad CPU. So under warranty they are sending me a new CPU on there dime. So far I have had to change the magnet board (which was already the updated version) already a few months back, and now have to change the CPU board on a 6 month old game. Yes it was built on a Monday as well, lol. I checked the date. Aug. 13, 2013 was a Monday.

Anyone else have this issue with there Metallica sound? Cant be a an isolated issue, cuz Chaz said they had to do exchange quite a few. Corrupted Ram I guess on the board.

So just waiting for it to come, next week probably.

Also my optos were giving me service alerts, but while playing the optos were fine. Game was spazzing out with service alert notices, but they all worked. So I reset back to factory default settings and the service alerts were gone. Still love this game, no matter I have to repair, change a board, still very fun, has not gotten boring at all.

1 month later
#2320 4 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

I would verify you have the new magnet board as well. If you dont you will most likely get lots of phantom hammers.
Also if you have any issues with rejects to the gravyard standups, they sent me an updated assembly. My first set of targets rejected many shots, my new set does not.

That doesn't matter if its a new board or not. My new upgraded board that came with my premium, fried the fuse and needed a new board. Chaz at Stern told me if there is a red dot on the board its an upgraded one. told yep, there is a red dot. So just because the board if upgraded one don't mean nothing really, as mine if proof they do screw up and fry a fuse and you need new board. Stern sent me a new magnet board and all is well with that.

Got my CPU board, just haven't installed it yet. Will I have to do the code in the new CPU? I this a hard job to swap out the old to the new board? Reason my CPU board is bad is my sound would not got up, stayed very low even at max, and my Polk just lightly thumped at full max volume. Anyone have this issue? Chaz had me diagnose some things before he was determined I needed a new board. I have to admit, I'am real intimidated on doing this board swap. With pinball refinery having the light board and all the other stuff plugged in, is making it seem real difficult. The light board doesn't not have enough wire lead to get the board out the way, as it just sits on the other side of DMD (leaned up against it) while removed. Its as far as it will go with short wire leads, with they were longer. Oh well, I will get to it eventually. Been over a month and haven't played my metallica.

1 month later
#2582 4 years ago

20122_10203661869697044_9180524810072312980_n.jpgSince owning my Metallica premium since July, I have had to replace magnet board and CPU board on the machine. Matter of fact, I just did the CPU swap a few days ago, my machine was down for months. If you notice in the picture the ROM on the board is AC/DC, the ROM on original board just said "pinball boost" , Oh well it works, got it fixed and I have sound again. Both times Stern covered the boards. I want in on the colorDMD, I read someone bought a colorDMD already? So they are out now? If not, why are people buying now? Fill me in, post a link to where to buy? Thanks

#2588 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

The color will be out soon, so I just went ahead and stuck a ColorDMD in my pin to be ready. I have it set to white with DotXL, looks awesome. Will be even better in full color of course.

Sweet! So you can get the display which is $399 and when the color firmware comes out you just get the downloaded firmware for free? I gotta get this!

#2589 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Glad they got you fixed up Jeff!

I had it since February to install, just got it done on Sunday, lol.

#2595 4 years ago
Quoted from Hjbondar:

The coffin window on my Metallica is slightly opaque. Is that the case normally. I spoke with my vendor who indicated that the ones they had on their floor were like that too. In way of reference, sort of like the early AC/DC lower play field issue - but not quite as bad. thanks

I haven't heard this one on Metallica. Mine is clear as glass. Probably a bad batch of plastics, it happens.

#2767 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I removed both spotlights on the slings, and I re-ran the harness underneath to the Fuel bar. I removed the spotlight shield and installed a flex red. The sling spotlight on the right I re-ran to the Mystery scoop underneath. I don't miss the spotlights on the slings at all. In fact, I was tired of them getting knocked around, and I like the view of the inlane/outlanes better, too!
FUEL Bar Light Underneath.jpg (Click image to enlarge)METLE No Spots.JPG (Click image to enlarge)Spotlight FUEL.JPG (Click image to enlarge)Spotlight Scoop.JPG (Click image to enlarge)

I did this over the weekend! Should have done it a long time ago. Free mods are nice, the left spotlight socket is re-routed to light up FUEL target area. With the spotlights removed, you can actually enjoy the slingshot art, and lighting a lot more. Those spotlights are useless on the slings. No sneeze guard either, not needed, never had a problem.


#2775 4 years ago

While playing last night, the magnet for the coffin lock "glitched!" It went into the playfield leaving the hole open, then the ball rolllled by, and just went into the hole, then the hammer came down. Things were normal from there the rest of night. Real weird. I already had to replace the upgraded magnet board once from Stern.

#2867 4 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I would prefer to have the middle playfield art lit, in your pics It looks very dark now?

Dark? Hardly the case. Bad pic's from phone camera, not dark in person. The spotlights with all that I read from other owners with the hassels of loose posts, bulbs fallen out, etc. None of those things happened to my game, I just think they barely provided any useable light. Removing them was one of the best things I did to improve the look of the game. The spotlight that shines on the snake is a good spotlight and provides a purpose for its existence, where the slingshot spotlights did not. I don't like pinball machines with anything on the slingshots, not flasher domes, or spotlights, its just my preference is all. You actually can appreciate the art on the slings better, cleaner look. The blue on the tip of the slings really pop's now without the spotlight washing it out. At my house everyone likes the spots removed and how the slingshot plastic now pops with the blue. No worries, it don't effect game play at all, and it can be easily replaced, but it never will.

I even removed the "sneeze guard" over the right wire ramp (I did this back in September). I have had ZERO issues with it gone. Again, its a much cleaner look. 8 months with it gone, no problems. Just removing unnecessary things is all. Game really looks better with all that crap off the playfield. Thanks Sparky for the idea on the spotlights removal you were so right. I did route the left spotlight socket up under the FUEL target so it now lights up red, cant beat free mod. I have a purple flasher under the scoop, so gonna have to extend the wire to reach the snake and put a green bulb in for that. Thanks again for the recommendation. I really don't see any other useless things to remove on the machine so I think were good now.

#2868 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Where there any rumors of another update to met, or is it all done? I'm not sure if it is still missing anything, but for sure more songs would be nice.

More songs would be a plus! Some of there "garage days" stuff.
If there is no more updates, then I would be good with how it is now! Fun game!

#2969 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Some progress on the next batch. Got my envelopes from staples and my stamps and a couple sheets of plastic from lowes.
20150423_184229.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Hey Rick, can you do different colors? I like your clear, but can see blue would look good up there in that area.

#2970 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

For peeps that have the purple armor, how resistant to scratches is it? My TFLE has red/purple powder coat and there is a blemish on the lockdown bar that ive not found a way to polish away...

eh, my niece had a bunch of bracelets on while playing and she kinda put some surface scrathes on around the flipper area. Most part it buffed out, I used Carnauba wax on the powder coat, not sure what others use on there powder to shine it up and remove scratches, would like to know?
Sucks I have to make sure NEXT time take off those 30 bracelets if you wanna play my machine. Its all powdered candy purple and looks real nice. The creeping death speaker panel and side panels look great and blend well with purple armor.

#2971 4 years ago

Here is a picture taken at Gio's place (Pinball Refinery) before he shipped my machine to me. Apron and wireform ramps all candy purple powder coated, side rails, legs and hinges. I'am not sure who he used to powder but looks real good. Only issue is on the lock down bar has 2 divots on each side, kinda wished they filled those in before the powder, but you really cant see it unless you look for it. Looks amazing in person. Glad I had the coin at the time to go all out, cuz Metallica premium is deserving for this.

untitled4 (2).png

#2991 4 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

First of all, thank you to all that have posted on this thread. It has been really helpful and informative.
Secondly, I should have listened to the poster several pages back who advised installing a Sparky Protector before even playing one game. I had to keep the game in the box the last few weeks due to a move, but was finally able to get it assembled last night. After only 12 plays, I noticed no fewer than ten permanent dimple marks surrounding the magnet by Sparky's feet.
I have ordered a protector from Rickwh and cannot wait for it to arrive so I can start playing the pin again. But I am a little surprised that Stern would not have done something to prevent this problem on their own.
And one final thought. The shaker motor is definitely worth having in this pin.

His protector is awesome! Congrats on the game it is one of the best IMO. Shaker motor is a must have, and works well in this game. Play and enjoy it. I have dimples, we all have dimples, will admit, after adding Rick's protector the dimples have stopped some.

#2992 4 years ago

One thing that pisses me off, is when people play your game, and your trying to tell them what to shoot for and objectives and they don't care just want to bang the ball around aimlessly. Ya, that's my wife last night and gets Grand Champion score. She is one of those players that just keep the ball alive and don't shoot at targets purposely. She got 2 CIU's last night, and she had no idea how she did it. Its the way she plays pinball, its how she enjoys it. She said if she had to think about hitting this target and that target, then its stressful and not fun for her. Wildly hitting the ball is fun to her. So be it then, I'am glad she loves playing pinball, and she likes Metallica's music. Just pissed she took GC on that style of play. Oh well, I'am not that mad.

#3040 4 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

I have this one as well, no complaints. It re-enforces from inside, but curious if game will still wear at entrance to the scoop.

That's the only protector on my game. PR (Gio) added a little more clear around the edges of the scoop. Almost a year of owning, and no wear at all. Some go overkill with protectors on new games, but its there games.

Quoted from Aurich:

Got a box just sitting here waiting to be mailed, give me the word.

Are you selling those hammers, just curious, maybe interested in one in the future. You have some talent their Aurich glad theres people like yourself out there making things to personalize our games. Your translites are top notch that you did for ST.

#3042 4 years ago

Those who have had the machine for a year now or more, have you had to do a flipper rebuild yet? If so, whats the link to get a kit? My flippers work great, I just like having parts readily available when needed. The price for this kit is ridiculous for a rebuild......ebay.com link » 2012 Stern Metallica Flipper Assembly Rebuild Kit For 2 Flipper Assemblies

#3046 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

45 minutes of work left.

11169020_10206633200817172_544383404_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

congrats to you man!

#3048 4 years ago
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

Pinball life doesn't seem to have a 'ready made' rebuild kit for modern Sterns but Marco Spec does:

thanks, much appreciated.

#3049 4 years ago
Quoted from marksf123:

I just got my game and getting ready to move it next to AC/DC which means I need to find a new spot for TRON (although I am not selling TRON).
I really like MET and and glad I was able to pick one up on this last build. I wanted the premium but I couldn't justify the inflated prices as they say they are not rerunning them. I really like the pro so all is well.
I just finished adding my MODs that I bought which are the following:
Flipper Fidelity LED backboard
Snake Fangs & Tongue
Pinbits Protectors
Sparky Double EL electrocution wires
Cemetery Entrance
Speaker Flasher on Ramps
Metallica Belt buckle
On Order:
Cemetery Pinblade
Mystery Scoop protector
Shaker Motor
Custom Apron Cards
Still thinking about:
Color DMD
Lighting for Pinblades
Painted Sparky


That's badass! Where you getting them custom apron cards?

#3078 4 years ago

So was just on colordmd's website, and apparently there is only a pre oreder and the ROM isn't even in the "support" area where other game ROM's are.

#3140 4 years ago

My playfield don't line up when lowering back into place. I literately have to slam it into place. Is that normal? I ask cuz its my first Stern so not sure. It sure is a "clunky" process with quite a few bumps before you can lower it. I really dred lifting the playfield, and I shouldn't feel that way. Any easy adjustments to line it up? The 2 hooks on the playfield when lowered gently, miss the slots on the cabinet by like 1/8-1/2 inch, I then lift it up abit and SLAM it down and it goes in, but only if I SLAM it. Its always been like this. I had asked someone about this, and they said normal, but I don't think so. I is a PITA. I dont lift the playfield up much, but like to get it right, but not sure how, or where to begin. Any help from fellow owners is needed and appreciated!

#3267 4 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Mine does the same thing, whereas it used to not. I'm mainly talking about the hooks nof lining up.

yep, the two hooks. I never had a Stern, so I'am trying to get use to it. Trying all kinds of different ways to do this. Its so clunky, bump, bump, stop, lift and lower, then lift and slam it in.

Quoted from northvibe:

Mine did this. I lifted it. Loosened the bolts of those two metal hangers and pushed them in further, tightened them back up. Seems much better but is still a little tight.

I'll have to try this, thanks

#3268 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Does anybody know if a 'mantis style' (inside the rim) protector for the mystery hole exists? I'd rather do that than the full collar cliffy style.

Yes that's the one to get. The other one was designed to cover worn scoop holes on older games!

#3318 4 years ago

While getting "coffin multi-ball" does the game say coffin multiball? I was playing and when I achieved coffin/casket multi ball, all it said was "Coffin" it didn't say multiball. Is this normal? I have heard it say that a few times now come to think of it. Seems like a glitch.

#3319 4 years ago

Is there a special tool to adjust height on the magnet core?

#3347 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

While getting "coffin multi-ball" does the game say coffin multiball? I was playing and when I achieved coffin/casket multi ball, all it said was "Coffin" it didn't say multiball. Is this normal? I have heard it say that a few times now come to think of it. Seems like a glitch.

I didn't get a answer on this yet. While playing last night, it yells Coffin then its just nothing, it should say "multiball" after it says coffin right? thanks.

#3350 4 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

heard that as well...and have heard both.
quick question....... on the right ramp, when you don't make it up the ramp and the ball comes back down, the right pick target gets in the way and its not a clean run down the ramp. On mine, the ball comes down and bangs off the back of the right pick target. Is that normal?

It shouldn't hit the pick target, it should hit the post that's there. Check to make sure your target is lined up right. Sometimes those targets move and lean, and this maybe what yours is doing. If ball rolls down off the ramp, it hit the post that's there, never the target itself. Sometimes it wont hit nothing and come back down smooth.

#3351 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

No I totally missed this. I'll check into buying one of these soon. Can't hurt to have around the house, either. Thanks!

Check Harbor Freight, I got mine for $4.99, right angle screw driver.

#3358 4 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

wished I had a better picture, but this is where its happening. no post behind the right pick, but there is a post behind the left pick. Target is secure, about 25 games on the machine.

met ramp.JPG

Actually I check that target on my Premium, and it has a metal protective thing/bracket to prevent damage for what you explained.

#3359 4 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

wished I had a better picture, but this is where its happening. no post behind the right pick, but there is a post behind the left pick. Target is secure, about 25 games on the machine.

met ramp.JPG

Heres what mine looks like. No 2 machines are alike. Example is the ramp flaps, see how yours covers a good portion of that insert, where mine does not. I wouldn't worry to much about the ball hitting the back of target if I was you.


#3360 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I heard just "Coffin" the other day when starting that MB.
The ball usually does bounce around a bit on a half right ramp shot. Normal.
For the Snake screw, I used a short phillips head bit and turned it with some needle nose pliers. Not the best solution, but it worked for me when installing the fangs.

Maybe an update is needed to fix that, cuz the others yell out Multi-ball. Just a small glitch. It is odd to hear COFFIN and then nothing.

#3448 4 years ago

Just received my shooter rod from "kpull"! Fits the theme perfect! If interested pm "kpull" pinside member making these, not sure for how long though.

Quick question, when taking the stock shooter rod out noticed there was no "sleeve", is there no sleeve in the shooter housing on Stern's?


#3455 4 years ago

would like a coin door decal as well. Where you get those?

#3456 4 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Those are yours of course. Great price. Lol. Thanks again. Also love the hammer but should have asked for 007.

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

that hammer is badass!!

#3472 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You have Refinery Edition #10 I have #8. Yup no sleeve.

I wonder how many they did. I just used mounting putty to put the little plaque on the coin door.
Really digging this hammer Aurich did, man I want one. I had Gio paint my hammer up, but that hammer by Aurich is just awesome. How much Aurich?

#3482 4 years ago
Quoted from dgposter:

I got my Refinery Premium from Gio back in November 2014. It's #13.

Mine was delivered on July 2nd 2014. #010

Quoted from Roostking:I and a couple of other people were blowing the fuse, D7 I think that controls all magnets. I blew mine twice. It was happening on the Walking Dead too. I never found a reason.

Magnet board bad. Mine blew, put another in and it blew. Funny thing was, this was a upgraded magnet board and it still was faulty. Call Stern, they may take care of you if your out of warranty.

#3498 4 years ago
Quoted from marksf123:

Got my Dirty Donny customer painted sparky (a couple of quick pics)- can't wait to put it in the game. Also have the pingraffix pin blades to add. All that is left is the color DMD.


Looks good! I had Gio paint mine when they were doing my game, and I had him put on "Game Over" I just wanted it different from the others.

#3508 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I've got a question about converting a Met Premium to the traditional captive ball. I've got one ordered from PBL. The current set-up is a steel block with a captive ball behind it. The PBL replacement comes with a pinball. My question is this. When I install the new assy, should it have both balls behind it, or only the one that comes with it? Thanks!

If you check early promo videos/photos, it shows this on the L.E./premium games. It was a last minute cut to put in the block. I never played mine with the block, that thing was removed by my distributor while doing some upgrades before I got my new machine.

Quoted from 85vett:

Another rattling tip. Put some of the 1/32 felt strips on the top and bottom of the backglass. This snugs it up to and stops the backglass rattling if you have that as well. Only was present on a couple of my Sterns but took me forever to figure out that was the noise. I've since added this to all my games and they are nice and quite when shaking. It can be found here - http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

No rattle experience here. Thought there would be, but nothing like what your mentioning. Those are some good tips though.

1 month later
#3843 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I've had a few fly off with the sneeze guard installed already. 3 times in 200 plays.
Finally did some of the things I wanted to do since I got the machine. Nothing new mod wise to anyone here but did the Pinbits protectors, Pingraffix Pinblades, MezelMods fangs and tongue, Iamdarras coffin decal, and started tweaking some LED's. Cliffy's are on the way.

I have had 2 since I removed mine, and that's been 10 months now.. It looks better removed, a lot cleaner. Another way to clean up the look is get rid of the spotlights off the slingshots. I never been a fan of anything on the slingshots of any pinball machine, these things are hideous. You can enjoy the art on the sling plastic, where the spotlight interfered. No huge difference in lightening and others have complimented the cleaner look of it.

1 week later
#3953 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

"Added art to the combo high score to date display effect in the attract mode. Changed the font for the combo award and the combo jackpot award"
So I was wondering......if they added new art animation/changed dots to the attract mode, how does that effect those who are running a colorDMD? Will the new frames still appear, but just not colorized? Just curious.

ColorDMD will update the code for it. Similar to how we updated the game code. If you take a look at there website, you'll understand.

Quoted from 85vett:

No need to remove the top of the head. Slides in just fine. Be sure to clean the mating surface for as residual wax could be transferred there from the ball which will hinder the decal from staying down long term.

I put a piece of mylar over my snake tongue. I started to notice a small spot of wear. I have had the decal on since new and game for a year now.

So how is the new V1.64 code? I gotta install that tonight or tomorrow , as I have it on thumb drive ready to go.

Oh, and today ( 7-2-15) is " 1 " year since my game was delivered to me from Pinball Refinery.

#3980 4 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

I'm sure this has been covered alrwady somewhere in this thread, but I'm very pleased with the results of adding a couple flexable leds underneath the snake. Makes noticing when the snake is lit easier...
Quick video of it in action.
» YouTube video

What are the lights connected to? I tried pausing to see where you tie into at. Like the idea and want to do this. Thanks

2 weeks later
#4196 4 years ago

Someone help here?
Iam about to get the ColorDMD, but the website says the firmware will only work with the firmware the game has. Well new code came out a few weeks back and its now v1.64 and the colordmd firmware is v1.63. Are you guys having issues with your colordmd's with the new game code? Should I wait until they update to v1.64? Thanks

#4236 4 years ago

I have a colordmd coming. This pin deserves the color!
Is there any settings are anything to be aware of when installing?

2 weeks later
#4356 4 years ago

My guess, maybe the new cabinet art? I got this pic off Dirty Donny's FB page, its his monster premium.


2 weeks later
#4445 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

How many here have not mylared the sparky magnet? How well is that area holding up? I know mylar on the magnet will get chewed up in probably 50 games, but it would have been nice if Stern put mylar donuts on the game like IM.

Only protection on my Premium is the mantis scoop protector, and a bit of mylar in shooter lane.
nothing around magnets or the ball drop areas. Everything is still fine after owning for a year and 3 months. Have some dimples around the sparky magnet, but that stopped happening when I installed "Rick's" sparky protector, no more air balls up there. I just think people go overkill on these protectors. Key thing is, keep it waxed real good in all high ball traffic areas, replace balls, and keep the magnets level with the playfield. I have experienced having to change out the magnet board (yes it was already a updated board that failed) once and the main CPU board had to be changed, all covered by Stern even after my warranty expired. I had to change the CPU board cuz the sound just all the sudden quit, Chaz at Stern said contact your distributor and we will get you new one. All is well so far, that was 7 months ago.

#4479 4 years ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Just traded my pro in for a NIB premium. Someone started a rumor that the new run of premiums would have metallic, foiled artwork like IMVE, that is false. Cab is identical to the pro.
First time seeing the premium translite in person. Million times better than the pro and I even like it more than the LE. image.jpg

Congrats man! How do you like the dmd area graphics? I guess you will get use to it. Enjoy

1 month later
#4871 4 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Shopped out my MET today with Titan rings, got everything cleaned & waxed. Looks like a brand new pin again!
Titan MET.jpg

Hey, another one who took the spot lights off the slingshot plastic! Iam glad I temoved this and the sneezeguard on the right. Much cleaner look for the Home environment. Is there full Metallica rubber kits available at Titan?

1 month later
#5045 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

No scans. I made mine via pictures. I also just made a couple that I couldn't find good pics of. I made all of these before I bought my MET but they seem fine to me so I didn't rip my game apart to update things further. Here is an old pic of it.
Once released I'll give full approval to mod so they can take any images they want from the table at that time.

When I bought my Premium NIB, I also bought a plastic kit for future use. Iam not understanding what's going on here. Was there a mistake on the plastics? I took the paper backing off all the pieces, cuz over time it's very difficult to peel the paper backing off, I know this because on my High Speed that I had, the plastic kit was just a couple years old, and the paper backing was difficult to peel and was takingvthe art off the plastics. So on the Metallica plastics I knew I wouldn't need them anytime soon, so I removed the backing paper and wrapped each plastic piece with wax paper for protection, sealed in ziplock bag and put the away.

#5046 4 years ago

Anyone got the snake mod for their game from Pingraffix? I just saw it today. My only issue as it is nice except it missing it's tail, kinda just ends at the start of the wireform ramp. I do like it, wanted see what others thought, or have it installed.

4 weeks later
#5364 3 years ago

Ok guys, the back post that comes up and stops the ball, when at rest, how far down the hole should the top of post be? Level with playfield? Mine is about a half inch down in hole at rest, and once in awhile the ball will get stuck. It gets released cuz the post comes up during ball search, but wanted to know if there was an adjustment that could be made or its just how it is? Anyone just disable this post in the settings? I did for awhile, but the ball wasn't going in the pop bumpers.

Also, wanted to update my right flipper issue that's been on going since ownership. Had a tech. out to check it and it turns out why it not level with the left flipper at rest is because the flipper mech. bracket is bent. Obviously done at factory, but why didn't the pinball refinery guys catch this is beyond me, as they had the game 3 weeks molding it before I got it, and when I got it, the flipper issue was the first thing I noticed. Plays great, it just at rest is almost touching the playfield. When flippers are both fully extended they are even, it's just at rest is when it noticeable.

I also got 3 red 2-led lights for the back roll over lanes, good idea, or just keep the white-led's in? I was wanting to color match the red plastic. I also like to know a good spot for the casket and skeleton to go that I got from mezelmods. I don't have the sneezeguard on anymore. I buy stuff and never use it, hate that. Still need a Colordmd. Think that it would be the finishing touch on my machine.
Congratulations to all the new owners out there. It's a great machine!

#5400 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

It should be level to prevent damage to the PF. There's a screw on the bottom of the mech you can use to adjust the height.

Thanks, will have to adjust.

Also Iam running competition mode, but not sure what the benefits are. Any help on this is appreciated.

#5403 3 years ago

I just ordered the "SAM subwoofer kit" from Lorenzo's company. I currently have the alligator clips going from cabinet sub to the Polk external sub under my Metallica. I read where it sounds better with his rca wires vs little alligator clips it's no comparison. Just looking to improve my sound. Question: what do I do with the cabinet speaker or does it still work with Lorenzo's kit? Do I just toss the alligator clips setup when installing this sub kit? Thanks

#5409 3 years ago

Yep, had to replace the CPU board already because my sound went out. Thankfully even though my Metallica was out of warranty, Stern still covered it. Probably was the two clips touched and popped the CPU. The wires with the alligator clips do come from the backbox on CPU board. There's a plug that's plugged into in bored with red and black wires. Remove and throw away?

Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:It is much better, the sound connection is being directly tapped from the original source board as a pure signal.
It's INDEPENDENT and ISOLATES the different speaker systems. The PCB daughtercard allows you use BOTH simultaneously via direct signal with no interference or feedback. Throw the alligator clips in your tool box. You may need to adjust phasing on your subwoofer to prevent distortion, or at worst case diconnect your cabinet mid-range speaker completely. You will know when you adjust the volumes. I disconnected my subwoofer (card is still on the board), as it make walls shake and pisses off my neighbors fiercely even in separate houses.
Permanent use of alligator clips in pinball machines except for testing, is no different that using electrical tape and wirenuts, instead of soldering and shrinkwrap. It leads to problems.

#5481 3 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

If ya spent ~5k on the game and ~100 bucks on a powered sub just do yourself a favor and spend the 35 on the pinnovator sub output board. I've got em on 2 games and they rock, much better than ghetto gator clips. Less than 5 min install, and you can pull it out just as fast to plop in another game for experimenting, or sale. Side note I had a pioneer sw-8 that was laughable runnin gator clips. Off the board it's formidable, big difference. Not a clue y

Did you run the wire out the top vent screen or dropped it into the cabinet and out the bottom vent screen?

I received my package from pinnovators, which was fast delivery, but was charged over $40 dollars when on the website clearly says 35 bucks shipped. Gonna install soon and report back.

#5482 3 years ago


Man, want to hook up Pin Sub kit from Pinnovators and not sure what these big white boxes are, and looks like my subwoofer wires ( black and red wires) on the left coming out of the "power" plug. Shouldn't they be plugged into the " audio" plug on the board? What is this contraption here, and how do I get Lorenzo's sub kit hooked up? Thanks

#5485 3 years ago

Those white boxes are preventing me of plugging in, see photo. I have read manual.

#5488 3 years ago

here it is. It's a very tight fit, kinda got things tugging. Let me know if it's right, and what settings for the Polk subwoofer?



#5491 3 years ago

I didn't get a pm, but it looks to go to this adapter. The FTS adaptor. Is everything look good to power on from the photo above?


#5492 3 years ago

wow!!! This sounds 100x better then the alligator clips, Wow its intense at volume 32, it's where I had it, and the external Polk wasn't living up to its potential I suppose. Highly recommend this, for a intense sound! Got the alligator clips taped, gotta get them out the game. They were fed through the hole where the power cord is. \m/ \m/

#5493 3 years ago

Never got the pm....just kinda crossed the fingers......and.. It's works! Sounds great man!

#5496 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I took the plunge and bought 3, should have them in a day or two. I would have ordered a couple more but those games weren't listed as being supported. Really interested to hear the sound difference, ST and MET thunder as it is.

Keep your volume settings at there current positions and when you get it hooked up you will notice a better sound then with alligator clips. Quite a big difference, Iam very happy with the quality. . You have to free up the screen from the staple to get the cable in at the top rear of backbox. Report back on what you think?

#5502 3 years ago

Been having some great games since the sound has improved with the PinSub kit.
Question :
If my alligator clips were fed through the power cord hole. That means the clips were soldered after the wires were fed through correct? Looks like I will have to clip off the alligator clips to get them through. PR did my game after buying.

#5506 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Hmm. Just pull the the clips out the coin door.. and the rest of the wire will feed through the power cable hole in the back.. why do it the other way.. ?

There are clips on the other end, the end where they connect to the Polk sub. I had Gio at PR put the wiring through the powercord hole in back of cabinet.Now he put the wiring in with the main wiring bundle, so have to clip off the alligator clips to get the wiring back through the hole. Oh well, if I need them again, I will solder them back together. Just wanted to know if anyone else had there wiring ran through the powdercord hole.

Also, what is a good replacement for backbox speakers? Just the backbox.

#5519 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

This helps alot, good to know .
I do need to just go play one I suppose.

If you ever drive up north a bit to Mesa, you can come play my premium.

#5520 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

You must play ALOT of pinball to actually prefer one game over another game based on vids and other people's opinions. My hats off to you!

Uh, in his defense, he did say he has played both, and preferred Met. You didn't read his post entirely!

#5526 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Delta you were wondering how hard the Pinnovators sub connection would effect your sub well I just hooked one up to my ST Pro that had your set up, I left the sub at the same volume level as when I had the clips on the cab speaker and I thought my game was going to explode, there was a HUGE difference. So buy a kit for your MET for sure. I'm putting another kit on my MET next and expect the same results or even more cuz the sub on MET is a 12 inch. I'm a believer in the kit now.

I was quickly having to turn the volume on the Polk down as with the clips, the volume was 3/4 to max. With this sub kit, Polk volume 1/4 and machine volume at 35, sounds great and bass hits real hard and clear. Now to change the backbox speakers, and get some better highs. Any recommendations on just backbox speakers for the MET?

#5528 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I had a similar experience with the PinSub kit - Polk sub gain/volume way down now which should theoretically equal less distorted bass. Sounds a little better to me.
I also don't think better backbox speakers will make a difference. Problem is the game is in mono, and the sound is downgraded to 22KHz audio. The highs and mids are lost during this down conversion, and better speakers won't sound much better as the reason the quality isn't great is simply the audio being pumped through the speakers itself. You would essentially be polishing a turd by spending money on new backbox speakers.. IMHO.

Good points, thanks.

#5533 3 years ago

Can someone tell me what this post is that sticks out the back? I was adjusting the post that pops up to be level with the playfield and noticed this post coming out the back. Thanks.

Quoted from 85vett:

Are you getting clearer sound or just more sound? Having a hard time understanding if the sound is cleaner or if it is just louder with it.
I.E. - Does it have the same sound quality to where you have the alligator clips on with the sub at 3/4 volume as it does with the board and the sub at 1/4 volume.

I have to say, much cleaner and I hear more sounds. Plus it's a proper electrical connection, which gives piece of mind, like stated in above posts. I like it. I have my machine volume set at 32 and it rocks. I put it at 40 and you can feel air hitting your legs.


#5535 3 years ago
Quoted from GravitaR:

That post in the back looks to be a ball deflector in case the ball gets stuck on top of the Up/Down post underneath it. Without that post there the stuck ball may hit the glass during a ball search. That's my guess to why the post is there.

Good guess, I believe you're correct. Don't see any other purpose it would serve.

#5587 3 years ago

Question: I adjusted the up/down post in the back because it wasn't level with the playfield. I got it level then after a few games I noticed it went back down in the hole a 1/4" from level with the playfield. What gives? I tightened the nut on the posts coil tight where you adjust it. Anything I missed or should have done?

Also getting the annoying ball stuck in the corner of the snakes jaw on the right side, resting against the pick target. It don't happen alot, but does happen. Any ideas on this as well? Thanks

#5594 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I attempted to adjust my post as well, and same thing happened- keeps going under play field and not staying level. I also ordered a metal post from PBL because I get a lot of left orbit rejects vs the ball going into the poppers.
As for the snake jaw issue- I get that too. The ball will sometimes get stuck near its right mouth. Not sure what to do, I even tried to bend the ramp a bit. I think some type of bumper should be installed on the ramp to close off that area. Maybe a rubber standoff with superglue, but haven't tried anything yet.

Ya haven't been getting rejects, it's works as it should. Just want it level with the playfield. Post up, if the metal post stays level?

I thought maybe there was a fix or something on the ball getting hung up there on the snake jaw by now.

Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.


Make sure that magnet is level with the playfield. I just clean and wax real good, and make sure it's level. I don't use those mylar circles, just wax, Blitz wax. Almost two years owning, and it still looks new. Change balls often too is good preventative maintenance. Your magnet looks cooked as well. The edges of it in your picture Iam referring to. Run your finger over the magnet, if you feel unevenness adjust. It should be smooth transition when running your finger over it. If all else, it looks to be easy to touch up the black there. The thing I do like about the art of this game, is the wear marks kinda just do blend in and not really stick put. If I was to walk up to the machine, I wouldn't have noticed until you pointed it out.

#5600 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Is your target leaning over and the ball resting on it? If so, one of these will fix that leaning problem. http://mezelmods.com/collections/under20/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721
Looking at my machine there is a post there with a rubber on it (between the ramp and target) but I'm not sure if the Pro's have it too.

Thanks, I do have a premium, but Iam talking about the right corner snake jaw, ball gets hung up sometimes.

Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Check for binding of the bell armature, alignment of the coil bracket, coil sleeve, return spring tension, and coil stop position again. One or more of these is not right.
My armature was replaced with a WMS metal version to prevent ball "bounce backs". This post is slimmer than the standard Stern plastic post version which makes it unlikely to bind or stick as well. Another one of my "mods" which is really just another factory correction. I used the same trick as others on additional Stern machines like LOTR.

I know someone mentioned this before, but you have a link or part # for this metal version? Thanks

#5602 3 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Metallica will be my first NIB.
Just mailed off my check a few days ago.
Can't wait!!!!!

Very nice and congratulations!! Metallica was my first NIB too. It's gonna go nice with your current machines! Wish you were my neighbor! Post up pictures when it arrives.

#5631 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Update on the metal rod change- after playing numerous games tonight, the metal rod starting slipping lower in the play field again- just like the plastic one. The ball even got stuck back there because the rod had sunken in so much.
I decided to put a nut on the adjustment screw to hold it in place. It seems to come loose the more you play the machine- after playing a handful of games, the metal rod was still perfectly aligned with the play field. Also, while the reject rate is down- I don't think it made that big of a difference and would say keeping your plastic rod in there is probably no big deal.
Here's what I did to the adjustment screw:


Did you add this or put it on? The nut on the coil on my machine looks identical to it in the picture. Iam gonna try what was mentioned above and some blue loctite.

#5639 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

This nut was actually missing on my machine, which explains why the rod kept slipping lower in the play field. I found this one and tossed it on there- I didn't use locktite, but I might have to if it comes loose. Stern's award winning quality assurance team must have missed it when doing their glance over .. uhh.. "inspection" process.

I bet it's probably laying in the cab. When I lifted up my playfield to do the adjustment, my screw was 5 threads from falling off the rod.

Nice fix for the snake jaw area by the way. Does it interfer with the jaw when it moves?

#5715 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Most of my upgrades have arrived. Still waiting on my Cliffy's but other then that I'm done....for now. Lol. I'm going to get the color DMD but decided to let my bank account recover for a bit. So two things to get...Cliffy's and most importantly the game.
The anticipation is killing me.


Besides the big obvious stuff I can see, what else is on that table? Like the white tube, and the letters in the bag. Just curious. Might wanna get some Titan silicone rings, and toss the stock black rubber. Since I switched my playfield don't get so damn dirty quick. Enjoy your game.

#5716 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

BTW, I should have mentioned, I would just replace that magnet core.
$12, Pinball Life.
In fact, buy a few.
The one shown is beat to hell, and soon you are going to need to sand and buff it flat on a lathe or drill press or replace it anyway.
The damage will continue along the playfield edges if you do not.
I still recommend a Cliffy protector as well ($12 for a pair of protectors)
They are carbon fiber now (no magnet issues), easy to install (or remove), and worth a couple of bucks.
Looking closely at the photo reveals that the magnet core has been unlevel for a while due to edge "denting".

Curious what type of tool to remove the magnet core? Regular flat head screwdriver would seem to small.
Also, read about a ball Trough protector /demagnetizer. This really needed, and if so where to get one?
I still haven't addressed the back up/down post issue. Are you tightening that nut up real tight or just snug?
Also has anyone swapped out the skinny posts around the slingshot to star posts, and is it a good idea, or just leave them stock skinny ones?
I had to order 2 1/2 inch slingshot rubber, as the 2 inch ones were tearing at the ends on them skinny posts, anyone have this issue,? If so, does the slingshots have good bounce like with the 2 inch did? Should be getting them in a day or two from Titan. I haven't ordered the star posts yet, but if it's a good idea I will put them in my pinball life shopping cart as Iam putting an order together.

#5727 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

The letters in the bag spell "Cliff" and go on the cross. The tube is actually mylar to put down on the edge of the playfield hole where the balls drian. Titan huh? It never ends does it? Lol. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it.

For the mylar, are you talking about all the bare wood back in there and cover with the mylar, or just around the edges? Apron removal obviously correct? I have a few full sheets of mylar I could use I have had for awhile. Let me know the process to doing it.


#5742 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

In regards to the back stop flashers. I bought flex head CT flashers so that I could aim the light to the appropriate places in the artwork.
Blue. White. Blue. Blue. White. Blue
Looks great!

Would like to see that Rick, any pictures or a video perhaps?

2 months later
#6645 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

A DK Pinball power distribution board, for all the power hungry mods your gonna put on it like my Leg Light-Ups and beatmasters shooter housing light up both in purple. They bring light to the otherwise dark front of the cab and make it POP.

Got a link to these 2 mods Mustangpaul?

Also, coming up on two years of owning the premium and have never had any bounce back from the pop up post. So still original plastic post. Still need an Aurich hammer and colordmd. Awesome game!!!

#6648 3 years ago

Thanks MustangPaul

3 weeks later
#6920 3 years ago