(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#5838 3 years ago

Question for MET owners - how family friendly is family friendly mode? I've played a few on location and don't remember anything that bad. It's always loud with other games running so might of not heard everything. I heard some words are just bleeped out but not sure.

#5842 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

It's family friendly, but it's not 100% clean. You'll hear things like "Hell Yeah", "Damn", etc. You'll also hear things like, "Jack F@#-N Pot" and "He's Fu#@ed Now", where the actual word is bleeped but it doesn't take much imagination to understand what was actually said.

Does the insult meter turn off the bleeped out curse words? My kids are almost 12 so it's not like they haven't heard those words but not something I want to promote either. I am mostly thinking of other kids or families that come over and want to play pinball. Although, nobody ever wants to play my pins so not sure if that should even be a concern.

#5853 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

If it's those handful of call outs that are still of a concern, you could use pinball browser to remove them or change them to something else.

That's true - didn't think about that. Thanks for the tip! Seriously thinking about getting a pro. I rather have something a little more family friendly but it's so much fun to play. My kids know better as well but a pin like that needs the volume cranked up and it's going to bug me to hear bleeped out f bombs blasting through the house.

5 months later
14
#7637 3 years ago

Official member! Pretty excited about this one. Kids are having a blast with it, too. Game really has grown on me and had to have one. Scoring, gameplay, and difficulty are all well balanced. Really easy to learn rules and get things going. Great art, sound, and dots but of course everyone here knows all that. Already ordered some mods including a colordmd. One question - is it a good idea to get a cliffy for the mystery saucer? My experience has been cliffy's make shots more difficult and not a fan of that. Plan on getting mylar for the magnets but not sure where to get that. Wish I could surf the pinball life website but have to wait until they are back.

IMG_20160712_215103_554_(resized).jpg

1 week later
#7831 3 years ago

Is your colordmd older? Maybe hardware has changed. I just installed one in my met. Loaded latest code, adjusted settings, and it looks perfect.

#7850 3 years ago

What mylar are you guys using for the magnets? I have some that are a whole circle that will cover the entire magnet. Is it a bad idea to use that?

#7886 3 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

I must still be missing something with the song selection. Going left or right I only ever have 5-6 songs to choose from 2 distinct groups of songs that never overlAp and never show all at the same time. What am I missing here?

So if you go to the farthest left song, then hitting the right button, you only have 5 or 6 songs? If so, I would definitely reload the software.

#7937 3 years ago

Sucks to hear that but Stern should set you right. I would hate to not be able to play mine. The more I play it the more I love it. Really love how it plays and the sounds. Great fun to crank up the sound and play in the dark.

#7958 3 years ago

Me, too. I'm not a fan of the translucent Titan rings, though. I tried them on another game and did not like them. They are more like milky white, than clear, and look like caulk out of a tube to be honest. Colors are much more fitting but don't like rubbers to stand out. I plan on fitting Titans to my game but having to much fun plating it right now.

#7978 3 years ago

Apron looks sick! Any pricing info? I've always used the apron to lift the playfield. It doesn't exactly feel solid but works okay.

#7998 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Comet and Cointaker both sell the exact same LEDS that Stern uses. They are the clear dome twin 2835 SMDs...
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Yup, I've swapped out bulbs with 2 smd bulbs from comet on both met and st. Same brightness although some colors are not as bright by default like blue. Frosted also are not as bright naturally.

#8009 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

This may just be my imagination, but I feel like the first time I shoot the left ramp each game on my MET pro, it doesn't register the hit. After that, it works perfectly for the rest of the game. Is this possibly some kind of software glitch? If my game is the only one doing this, then I obviously need to take a closer look at that switch.

Easy to figure out if working or not. Take glass off and go into switch test.

#8028 3 years ago

FlipperMagician - that really sucks but you will get your pin. Shippers obviously messed up and are responsible. I would just keep calling them every single day. Talk to as many people as you can and put a fire under their butt . Let them know this is no small box and definitely not cheap.

#8044 3 years ago
Quoted from SkillShot:

Does anyone off-hand know what the bulb replacements are for the fuel gauge on Met Pro LED? I'd like to match the art with red, orange, yellow, green. The folks at Stern also mistakenly put a red bulb in the right gauge on mine.

2 are #44 (bayonet) and the others #555 (wedge). Factory uses 2smd bulbs. I bought mine from comet to do the same. Yellow ended up looking very similar to orange, though.

#8061 3 years ago

Sounds like trough switches. They cause a lot of issues like that. Check for loose connections.

#8071 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Will re- re- seat everything.

Try checking the switches in the switch test. Also make sure optos are not coming loose.

1 week later
#8122 3 years ago

Ramp protectors? For metal ramps? You can spend a fortune on mods. I say the necessary mods are the snake fangs, tongue sticker, colordmd, plastic protectors, and bigger plastic piece in front of sparky. Colordmd is pretty expensive but really looks at home in this pin. It would probably be good to lay down mylar around magets and where ball drops from the ramps. I still need to do this myself. I think a powered external sub might be worth it but have not tried. Game plays better with the sound cranked up so I bet the sub would be perfect for this pin. For the pro adding the total light show mod and spinners are also worth a look.

#8132 3 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Nobody did. Someone suggested Cliffy's. They did not say ramp protectors. Cliffy makes more than ramp protectors. jawjaw started drinkin' already.

Lulz. I swore I read ramp protectors in gweempose's post. I was like wut. On the subject of cliffy's protectors, does it make the mystery hole shot more difficult? Thinking about getting one but hate how they make shots difficult in some games like my ST. The mystery hole is larger so maybe not.

#8156 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

What color leds, 6, are you guys using at the top back of the cab above sparky ?

Mix of purple and ice blue for me.

#8326 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Right now ebay and others have the PRO led for 5,495 and the premium for 7,095....
How much would a premium cost me at these other places?

Retailers cannot post their lowest prices. They can over the phone. I believe everyone will have the same lowest price but doesn't hurt to call around. I bought my pro from my local rretailer for piece of mind. No surprises and someone to go to for any problems.

#8327 3 years ago
Quoted from roddog:

PS. Is there an easy way to prop the playfield in an upwards position? It feels like there should be a rod similar to when you pop the hood of a car open. I could not find one though. I just had my girlfriend hold the thing up while i tweaked. She is built like a mule!

One thing I would add to j_m comments is be careful pulling out the play field. As you pull it out, lift up on it. If you pull the play field out too far straight, it can fall into the cab. Embarrassed to say I did this with my ST.

Getting the play field back in is a pain. I'm not sure how to wrestle it over the hump without lifting up in the back. Once you do it a few times you will have it figured out.

Big thing to learn when you have problems are the test menus. You can test everything in the game there: coils, switches, optos, lights, flashers, etc.

1 week later
#8433 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Pinbits sells it. You can buy it separately, or it is also included in the complete plastic protector kit.

That's where I got mine recently. I just got the sparky protector and it was just clear plastic. Works for me but looks like when sold with plastic protectors had a web pattern on it.

1 week later
#8460 3 years ago

I got the pinballbulbs protectors as well. They are not clear in the middle. The middle part is just cut out leaving just a slim outline. One of mine cracked right away. Not very noticeable but rather have something more durable.

#8479 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Just checked out their web page.
The photo they use does seem to have a clear plastic center.
I do not own any yet, but I do like the way these look.
So do the new ones have clear plastic in the middle now, or will they just be an outline?

That's what I thought, too. All I got was the colored portion cutout and they are pretty thin in some spots. They look good installed but not very durable.

#8481 3 years ago

Maybe my order was botched. Let me know what you find out.

#8487 3 years ago

Thanks for the info, arcade. I did receive a pair of extras. Forgot about that.

3 weeks later
#8588 3 years ago

That's just reality. Everything costs money. I don't mind some things like playfield pegs and latches because they are not anything that affects gameplay.

I replaced my plastic post with metal. I still get a reject now and then but far, far fewer than with the plastic which was more than 50% of the time.

There are tons of mods. My favorite is the colordmd. Expensive but makes a huge impact in enjoyment factor. I also think the snake fangs and tongue are a must. Not sure plastic protectors are needed but like how they look. I thought about getting the total lightshow mod. Looks awesome but little uneasy about the installation and cost. Same for Pinball Refinery's painted trim. Just don't want to spend so much on mods for one game. Cheaps mods are great, though. I tweaked my led lighting for a custom look. I also swapped out stock rubber for Titan rings. Twenty84's coffin skull insert is very cool and only $5.

2 months later
#8910 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Does anybody else have this guide on the right side orbit stick out slightly like in this picture? Sometimes when I plunge it ounces off of that and doesn't make it up to the pops.

Have you tried adjusting it? Mine is held tight up against the wood. The wood is has a cut out for it so it should not stick out from the wood at all. The ball should always make it all the way around on a left flipper hold skill shot plunge.

1 week later
#8956 2 years ago

Could someone help me with my Sparky? Mine never seemed to shake much at the beginning of mb. On observation with the glass off, it rarely pulls the metal plate with the magnet on hits to Sparky and at start of mb. It does work correctly if I push back on the shoulder a bit. I don't see why, it just takes a little slack off the spring holding it to the metal plate that is grabbed by the magnet. Does that make sense?

1 week later
#8982 2 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Turn and retighten the coil spring so it oriented roughly 90 degrees from the bottom closer to the side of the chair.
This will increase the tension, and get him moving more violently.
If you really want to see him shake, use a slightly stiffer spring, but ensure it is the same size.

A follow up: I tried increasing the tension of the spring but that didn't work at all. The plate would just flex the spring but Sparky would not shake. The spring needs slack otherwise Sparky is always pulled back against the chair. I tried bending the metal stop of the swing arm toward the magnet. It seemed like I was just making things worse but somehow I found the sweet spot where it all worked. I'm not sure why mine is so sensitive.

#9013 2 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Thought Id share this side by side comparison image of my fried sparky mech and the new one that stern sent me back in 2013. I'm pretty sure that i had the dreaded "sparky locked on cause I left the coin door open during a power cycle of the machine issue"... anyways it shows that on my old one the little metal "finger" was totally bent backwards (toward the chair) vs the stock replacement one on the right that is bent slightly back toward the coil (or at least flat).
I know you got yours working already, but I thought this might be interesting for comparison.

Mine did look like the one on the left. That finger tab was pushed back against the chair. I bent it forward but worried the banging on it will just push it back over time.

1 week later
#9046 2 years ago

I like that panel, ninja. It would be better if you made the top part with the dials shorter in height. I think it would look better with a gap between the display and speakers.

#9082 2 years ago

If you play the game, you are going to get some wear and tear. Don't worry about it. These things are designed for commercial use after all.

#9083 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so my right flipper works perfectly fine - super strong but if I hold the button in, I can hear a sound which must be the EOS being used (or something to keep the flipper powered). Not so much on my left. Normal?

Like a hum? That's normal. I remember someone posting how to fix it, though. I think it's a vibration issue fixed by securing the coil better - or something like that. I say just turn up the volume a little.

#9092 2 years ago
Quoted from zene10:

If they have a fix, I'd expect to hear from them. Still waiting to Stern to take action on a ghosting and clear coat chipping of a MET Pro purchased in August.

I got mine around same time. No chipping on mine but some ghosting on two inserts. One is real noticeable and the other not so much. Kinda sucks but hard to think of a better example of first world problems.

2 weeks later
#9339 2 years ago

Congrats to all the new owners. Pretty cool Stern is still making them. I bought mine last summer thinking it was one of the last.

#9415 2 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

On Metallica premium and le do you guys leave the GI 2 led sterns bulbs in or do you switch them out for frosteds? What looks better?

I think the top lanes look better with froster red leds. Swapped out some others as well including color matching red inserts. Cheap to try so why not?

#9416 2 years ago

IMG_0314 (resized).JPG

#9451 2 years ago

If an extra ball is kicked out, it has to be a trough switch issue. Tug on the wires. I had a very similar issue with my Congo. There were no loose wires but one slid right out of the solder when pulled.

#9490 2 years ago

Don't worry. You will have to wait longer but you will get it. I would keep calling them about it, though. Let them know the cost of the item, size, and all that.

#9576 2 years ago

It doesn't always just drop right into place. Mine is a little tight. You have to push and wiggle it into place.

#9689 2 years ago

All MET's are SAM.

3 weeks later
#10180 2 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

New Met prem owner here. I have some simple questions which have likely been covered before but it can be hard to find info in such a long thread even with the great search feature.
My second drop target doesn't drop ~50% of the time from a powerful shot from the right flipper. It drops ~100% of the time from a softer backhand from the left flipper. What does this suggest? Are my drops slightly misaligned? Would just loosing the screws holding the mech, slightly adjusting and screwing it back in fix the problem? The first and third targets work great.
A hard shot to the right ramp registers ~100% of the time. A soft shot which barely makes it up the ramp only registers ~10% of the time. There is no entrance switch on this ramp so the game doesn't "know" it is a soft shot. My problem is just the ball isn't hitting the gate with enough force to activate the switch right? So is the fix just adjusting the switch arm a bit?

I've noticed my left ramp does not always register. Very rare, though.

For the drop target, it sounds like a common issue with Sterns. Had it happen on my ST where hard hits rarely registered. Fix is to shorten the spring about 1/4 or so. Just pull the spring out and attach on one of the coils making the spring tighter. After doing that, the drop target works like 99% of the time for many, many plays after.

2 weeks later
#10413 2 years ago
Quoted from Shadrac:

I'm a bit disappointed by the fact that Coffin MB is the only MB who can be stacked with other multiballs. It will be more fun if there's a possibility to stack Sparky with Snake or Grave. I only have Met since one week, maybe i miss something?

That's correct. I believe you can only stack one extra MB with coffin as well. Wish there was an easier way to get to coffin MB besides a zillion hits to the capture ball. I rarely see it when I play but I guess that is the point of such modes. Sure is fun to get coffin, another mb, fuel, and other stuff going at the same time.

#10446 2 years ago

Maybe Seek and Destroy. You are supposed to hit the flashing shot and then captive ball before time runs out.

#10452 2 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Just played a game and was befuddled when I got to enter my initials....all my high scores reset. Wtf?
Last night during a game it stopped mid ball like a drain then came back on 2 seconds later. Also seems like the sub is fading in and out. Lectrical issue?

My memory is bad but there is a setting somewhere that resets high scores after a period of time. I tried looking through the menu but cannot find it. I had that happen on my ST and thought something broke.

The game shutting off mid game is a reset and a mpu power issue. Sound issues would be something different but I'm no tech. I would check your sub connections for one thing. Also check to see if hitting both flippers during a game causes any resets.

#10458 2 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

HSTD reset count. Factory default is 2000 games. After 2000 plays all high scores reset except grand champion

That's it. Thanks, KG.

#10508 2 years ago
Quoted from Leakyfaucet:

So I am truly considering getting a MET soon, I've never owned a newer machine but every time I play it, I get that one more game feeling... but I have several young kids and shelter them from language, cussing doesn't bother my wife or I but would like to keep our kids innocent for the time being. Any suggestions? I know you can bleep but didnt know if anyone else has dealt with this. It'll be in my house, bedroom or living room since my mini game room is full and not yet climate controlled. Any ideas, suggestions are appreciated.

I had the same thoughts and honestly still do. You can put it on family mode but it only bleeps some of the words. Even so, it's pretty obvious. My kids are not so young anymore and it's not like they have not heard a few swear words. I'm no prude but don't like to hear my kids talk like that. My kids are not too impressionable so not really a big deal. I do turn the volume way down when little kids are over that want to play. That may seem silly to some but whatever. I just love the gameplay so had to have one. There really isn't anything logical when it comes to buying a pin.

2 weeks later
#10593 2 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

If you move the metal plate closer to the magnet coil does it grab it? Sometimes th mech needs adjusted there is a little finger tab on the mech that might need bent back some

Yup. I had to adjust mine. Never seem to work great even when I first got it. I played with the spring and bent the metal tab. You don't want to get the spring tight - it needs some slack. Somehow I got it dialed in and it works perfectly since. It doesn't seem like I changed that much but I guess a millimeter or so makes all the difference.

#10664 2 years ago

Opto may just be loose. Try going into switch test and bang on the playfield or touch opto board to see if that triggers it. You might have to replace an opto. Pretty easy on a Stern. Transmitter and receiver are the same part and have a connector.

#10696 2 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

Sounds like the vibration from the left flipper is triggering a loose solder joint/connection on one of the switches for draining. Check those connectors. Also does anyone know if you get 500,000 points for just draining?

500000 is awarded for hitting any shot. I would take the glass off, go into switch test, test every switch, and bang around the playfield. Sounds like issues with different switches. One on one of the shots and the other trough optos. Perhaps both are opto issues.

2 weeks later
#10808 2 years ago

I would check the trough opto switches. I never had an issues with opto switches on my Stern games but it seems like a common issue.

#10825 2 years ago

I saw a game on location with those clips. One of the clips came loose and looked like it was about to fall off.

1 week later
#10856 2 years ago

I don't have rails but rest the playfield on the metal brackets under the slings when I need access to back of playfield. I put a towel down to protect the wood and make sure no wires are in the way. I had to adjust my sparky a while back. On mine the metal plate had to be really close to magnet. Tolerance was very tight. I was worried that the metal tab would slowly bend back out but has been perfect.

4 weeks later
#11022 2 years ago

Too funny. I was playing MET last night and starting thinking it would be a cool mod to clean up the cross inserts. Going to order a set tonight. Love these kinds of mod that are inexpensive and functional.

#11055 2 years ago

Agreed. I like playing the game as designed. Replacing the post is easy and cheap. A must for every ownee. Stern should of shipped with a metal post but that is just one of many cut corners.

1 week later
#11119 2 years ago

Never had a launch issue with my pro. Here is a pic of my fork. I wouldn't use the playfield grafix as reference. Mine isn't exactly centered over everything. The metal fork thing should be square against the right wood side. One thought is that yours may be leaning too much to one side. I would take the glass off and manual plunge a bunch. See what is hitting and where.

20170707_213503 (resized).jpg

#11166 2 years ago

I thought the pinnovators connection kit was a big expensive but just wanted to hook up my sub properly. I admit I used alligator clips hooking up light strips before I learned to solder. Wouldn't do that now so didn't seem right rigging up a sub like that. I know both would probably work fine but the kit got it done with minimum hassle. No complaints on sound quality either. Best game for a sub imo. I have MET cranked out louder than my other pins because awesome.

#11190 2 years ago

Sounds like the kicker is not hitting the ball straight on. Maybe something is loose. Never had that problem but mine does fire back at different speeds. Sometimes real fast and sometimes the ball is dropped out. Also goes sdtm once in a while. Figure all these type of issues are about adjustments.

#11215 2 years ago

Premium MET is pretty awesome. I'm in the pro camp mostly because it's still a great game for much less. If you like the premium then get it. I had no intentions of getting MET but the more I played it the more I liked it. I thought I was going to get a GB when it came out but it was the opposite. The more I played it the more I didn't care for it. I got my MET pro because I knew it was a great game that I enjoyed playing. I think it's best to give new games time to mature and see how you feel about them after the initial excitement dies down. Get as many plays on them as you can and see what QC issues the game is having. I don't get guys that just buy pins without even playing and then decide a week after having it that it's not a game for them.

Just read up the past few pages for mod ideas. There are a ton. Big things are colordmd and subwoofer. Those two really add a lot to the game.

2 weeks later
#11289 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

For the pickier pinsiders, I've designed a drop in mod that drastically reduces the light bleed around cross inserts. Check them out. Thanks
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1087-wcp/00873-cross-pattern-light-blocking-insert-metallica-pinball

Finally got around to installing this inserts on my MET. Not sure why it took me so long because it was only a 5 minute job. I doubt anyone is going to notice they are there except me but that's okay. Inserts just look like how they are supposed to be when lit and parts look stock. Very happy with this mod.

Also, great job on that skull insert. I forget who was selling it at first but I got one. So simple yet effective. Another mod that just looks right. Wish Stern focused on details like this more on their games. Thanks for all you guys making these kind of mods and selling them.

#11306 2 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I am still selling the original through pinside shops or message me if interested.

For $5, it's not worth hunting down materials and taking time to make your own unless you just want something different. Get the original.

#11355 2 years ago

I can't find a build date on my playfield but bought it summer of 2016 right when all the playfield problems were starting. The game was a floor model with only like 100 plays. I checked all the inserts for ghosting. Maybe I missed one or it happened shortly after I got it but one has some decent ghosting. Like dnapac, it bugged me a little at first. Doubt Stern would send out a new playfield for just that and didn't want the stress of trying to get it fixed. Game plays awesome and already did a few mods. It's kind of like getting a scratch on your new car. It sucks but at least you don't have to worry about keeping everything perfect after that. It will probably affect resell but whatever. It's a fun pin that I have already enjoyed quite a bit.

I will say that it and all the other stuff has affected my opinion on Stern games. The one big thing I liked about Stern games was that they just worked and you didn't have to worry about anything going wrong. I figure there will always be a few games with issues every now and then but Stern would make it right. Now you really don't know what could go wrong. Cab could split, inserts could ghost, clear could flake, node boards go bad, etc. The bad thing is that a game could look and work perfect day 1 and then start having issues a week or month later.

#11383 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

I like easy updates and just changing up the lighting in the back panel.
Maybe some combo of slow color changing RGB.
What are examples of what you have done?
Open to ideas from my fellow MET head bangers! Pics?

I threw in some purple and blues back there. Maybe it was ice blue. I would just get some different bulbs and play around. You could try some flex heads and direct the light to where it looks good.

1 month later
#11577 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

So it's been 3 days so far and, I love this game!! Still trying to figure things out a bit more. When the spiders are lit what does that mean? For instance, during play one spider would be lit and if I shot for it nothing would happen from what I could see. Also what happens when you completely spell Metallica?

Spider shots tell you which shot is currently activated when it is solid lit. It will move as you shoot different shots. When you shoot the snake, sparky, or cross then it will light the matching insert for that spider lit insert. Once you get all those inserts lit for a shot then all the inserts will flash. Shot that shot again and that will trigger a hurry up. Hit the coffin and then all those inserts will stay lit the rest of the game and help you get to CUI faster. When the spider inserts are flashing then that means something different such as jackpots in mb.

Spelling Metallica gets you Justice For All Mode where you try to hit ramp/orbit shots. More points for alternating left/right shots. Highly recommend you read up on the rules.

#11615 2 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

And the Pro version remains great! I really notice it on unmodified games now.

Got on them on my pro. Why not? Cheap mod, easy to install, and looks so much better. You forgot they are there but when you see a game without one - eww. Same for colordmd. When I see a game with the stock red dmd it just looks so awful.

2 weeks later
#11679 2 years ago

Agree with others. LCD looks awesome with DotsXL. You also have other display choices which is nice. Only criticism is that it mounts a bit far back and is a little dark. However, looks perfect when playing. LED is way too bright with too much contrast. I'm not a fan but it's a nice option for games where lcd does not fit.

1 week later
#11759 2 years ago

Same here. I don't care for the music but like the pin. It works as a package so I think it would be weird to have different music. I saw a video of ST gameplay where someone swapped out the stock music with classic rock tunes. So out of place.

A few of the Metallica songs are better than the others so I play them the most. Once I plunge the ball I tend to tune out the music and focus on gameplay. It would be cool to swap out some of the slower songs with other Metallica songs. Any videos of gameplay with changed music?

1 week later
#11822 1 year ago

That's embarrassing. It's pretty obvious what cab that is since Metallica is spelled out just a few inches below the coin door. Maybe it was a new hire working on a Friday afternoon on payday. Maybe the game was stored in a hot warehouse for a while and that would explain the decals peeling. Either way, just looks bad on Stern.

#11848 1 year ago

I say skip the shaker and get a subwoofer instead. The bass thump is more fitting to the theme.

#11851 1 year ago

Yeah, I know. I have a shaker on my ST and played plenty of games with shakers. Played an ACDC recently that had a shaker set on 11. That thing felt like it was shaking itself apart. Not every game needs a shaker imo. Personally, I try not to throw too much money into my games since it adds up fast. Less money for other pins. I really like the sub since it adds a lot to the music which is a big part of the game. I just thought it added more to the experience than a shaker but if you want both then go for it. That's always the answer to pinball buying questions - buy both. lol

#11859 1 year ago

Nice pickup, fezmid. I was the same. I didn't think much of MET until I started learning the rules and playing. Gameplay had my hooked. Not sure why you are waiting to turn it on - fire it up and play!

1 week later
#11948 1 year ago

Led popping out is very common. Nothing to worry about. Even if one gets in the trough it's no big deal. Just fish it out and pop it back in. There are different tricks for getting them to stay in.

3 weeks later
#12147 1 year ago
Quoted from raz0red:

Hey all-
I recently picked up a NIB Metallica Pro and while the game is great, I am having an issue. About 10% of the time when the snake ejects the ball I get an air ball. These are bad enough that it will hit the glass. Are there any adjustments that can be made to resolve this? Through the setting I was able to reduce the power of that coil, but it doesn't seem to help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Sounds like something is loose. I would lift the playfield and check for any missing fasteners or if anything not tight.

#12169 1 year ago

One ball 900+ million!? Now put the glass back on lol. Getting that doubler and cashing in a decent CIU bonus is the best. If I can do that then I feel like a champ no matter what the end score turns out to be.

1 month later
#12381 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveH:

And my first reactions are: Hey this game is a blast! And, OMG does a normal DMD look bad in this game. Color DMD ordered for it this morning has already shipped. It's something you can't unsee. I've played enough MET with one that regular dots just won't do.

That's the first thing I ordered when I got my MET pro. All those obnoxious red Stern displays looked bad but wow do they look awful when you know there are good dots to be seen.

2 weeks later
#12519 1 year ago

Go into switch test and test the trough switches. Could be just one switch acting up. You can also test the coils. When testing coils make sure to press in door lock switches to enable high voltage.

#12541 1 year ago

Man, you are going full tilt. Nice list. You got all the important stuff plus more. You are going to love that colordmd and subwoofer. Best things for MET imo. Post pics when you get everything on.

1 week later
#12588 1 year ago

Game looks amazing, 85vett. Did you polish your ramps? They look so shiny. Like the purple flipper bats, too.

1 week later
#12705 1 year ago

Never heard of any advantages of the metal backbox. It's lighter but some associate weight with quality. Some metal backboxes had problems with decal sticking. Think that was just Stern using wrong glue on one run, though. I really don't care what the back box is made of as long as it doesn't fall apart.

#12709 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

Its not what it is made of that is an advantage. In the new design the DMD/speaker panel is tilted back a little to aim directly at the player. Makes the screen look better and reflect a lot less off the playfield glass, plus the sound is aimed better. This should have been done decades ago! Also, the panel gets artwork attached instead of just being black. Being thinner the DMD is closer to the front, so is not blocked from side angles. I much prefer the two bolts to hold the head in place instead of the old coffin lock that I constantly have my allen wrench stolen or misplaced. I always have a 5/8" wrench when I am moving games. The sides of the head are still wood, so the decals attach the same. The top and back of the head are powder coated metal which is nice and sturdy.

Oh yeah, forgot about that!

1 week later
#12830 1 year ago

I don't think anyone knows. Stern just keeps making them. It's like printing money since demand is always there. I thought they were ending production when I bought mine well over a year ago.

#12868 1 year ago

Same here except on ST. I also hate how you can't just slide it in. You have to lift the rear as you slide it back. What a stupid design.

2 weeks later
#12991 1 year ago

Colordmd is a must for MET. Just is. LCD or LED has been discussed many times on pinside for different games. It's all personal preference. LED fits right in where LCD has to be mounted back some. LCD has more viewing options but LED is brighter. I prefer LCD because I think it looks better. LED is good for games where LCD does not fit like CV.

#13074 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

With a pro their is no reason to buy the gels. Just get the LED's of your color choice.

That's what I did. Orange and yellow don't look that different but good enough. I also swapped out a few other bulbs just for fun. Cheap and easy customization.

#13107 1 year ago

I was legit beat by my daughter who hates pinball playing Rollercoaster Tycoon a few weeks back. Sad thing is I already played a few games, learned the rules a bit, and was actually trying. It was fun watching her gloat a bit. MET is definitely one of those games that can seem brutal one day and then the next day you are tearing it up.

#13131 1 year ago

I had same issue with spotlights moving on both my MET and ST. I have simple way of tightening them where they never move. Tighten hex riser tight first. Do not over tighten or you might break the plastic. Just get it tight. Point the spotlight around 45 degrees to the left where you want to point it. Tighten the screw tight. Push the spotlight right 45 degrees and get it where you want it pointing. This gets the whole thing tight in position and doesn't move. At least that worked on both my Stern pins.

#13172 1 year ago

IMDN definitely has potential. I was very much surprised how Stern packed the pro with features. It seemed like their were on a trend stripping down games then all of a sudden this. You even get service rails lol. Price is up of course but at least there is more than a few toys on a spring. It's going to be hard to beat MET in code, though. That is the whole reason I bought mine. It has the perfect balance of rules and risk/reward with CUI modes. Stern has made some pretty good looking games but few have the code to back it up the good looks.

#13178 1 year ago

You can keep you sculptured figures, toys on springs, and plastics. I want more than 2 flippers, more shots, targets, metal ramps, spinners, drop targets, etc. Magnets, scoops, and pops are good to but not every game needs them. Basically a packed playfield with a bunch of stuff the ball interacts with gets my attention. I don't care what each feature costs and think the whole BOM thing is stupid. For a while, Stern had the trend of stripping the pro down to the bare essentials - two flippers, two ramps, orbit, and maybe a few drop targets. Look at the SW pro and compare that to IMDN pro. There is a big difference in features to me. It all comes down to gameplay, though. MET does not look like much on paper but is a blast to play. It's probably the only two flipper game I will ever own.

1 week later
#13239 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

man I hear this all the time - same question LED vs LCD. When it comes to MET, for the love of god, get the LCD. No comparison. The options you get with LCD (dots or HD/smooth) is reason enough. The brighter colors don't make that big a deal and the blacks are not nearly as black on the LED vs LCD.
Short answer - LCD.

100% this. LCD just looks better and has more options. LED good for games where LCD does not fit like CV. That's why it was created. Way too bright and too much contrast for me. I would think glare off the glass would be more of an issue as well. You will not notice the setback of the LCD unless you look at it from the sides. Looks perfectly fine standing in the playing position. I put some black weatherstrip material to help hid the gap and keep dust from getting on the lcd.

#13243 1 year ago
Quoted from JMK:

I’ve owned a huo MET Premium for quite some time and years ago I had installed Stern’s updated Cross targets (mech)after my targets were snapping off.
The targets were then dropping perfectly until just recently.
When last playing, I noticed (for the first time in years) that in particular my second and sometimes third cross targets were sticking/staying up sometimes on a direct hit.
Not on all occasions, about a third of the time.
Any suggestions to remedy this? Ie: Would the targets need new springs?
Thanks!

I would say spring needs to be tighter. I had similar problems with the drop target on ST pro I used to own. Only soft hits would register. I shorten the spring and it worked every time.

#13257 1 year ago
Quoted from hawknole:

I used weatherstripping on my ST panel to create a nice border for my ColorDMD & stop light bleed from my lighted speakers. No concerns on the stand off spacing for me.

I did exactly the same thing. I had plenty of light bleed from just the backbox light. Not sure if there is a better way but that is a cheap and easy solution. I think colordmd should have a professional looking spacer to fill in the gap as part of their kit.

#13279 1 year ago
Quoted from Raegor:

I think a 3d printed black molded spacer around the area would sell.
I'd buy one

Same here if not too expensive. $20 or less for me. No need for anything fancy.

#13287 1 year ago
Quoted from Tuxedomask23:

I recently just picked up a Met pro and I am loving it so far! Have a quick question for you guys. When does the diverter pop up for the left orbit? It seems like whenever I hit the left orbit it shoots back down and doesn't make a loop?
Thanks!

Common issue. It is supposed to stop ball and drop in pop bumpers. Replace stock plastic post with metal one and that should really help.

#13328 1 year ago

Stern's website says soldout for premiums but in stock for pros. That seems to imply they are still planning to make more.

1 week later
#13352 1 year ago

Might try a different memory stick. Heard stories of games being picky about brand.

#13370 1 year ago

No coil sleeve? That's a new one.

1 week later
#13404 1 year ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I've had my nib Met pro for 2 days. There were a couple small issues to resolve but it's great. My only problem at the moment in the ball launch. I'm not sure yet exactly what is wrong but I'm 90% sure it has to do with the first piece of metal the ball touches down the shooter lane. The ball rarely wants to clear the lane and skill shot area smoothly. Most of the time the ball just jostles around on the way up the launch and either end up in the pops or doesn't keep much speed going for the super skill. This seriously effects gameplay. Occasionally on launch the ball will actually jump and get stuck above the launch area in the underside of the wires from the right ramp. This means taking the glass off every 30 games or so.
If this were an older pin my first thought is to take the metal piece out, grind the front lips down more and replace it. This is like a new car to me though. I shouldn't have to and don't really want to have to Jimmy fix things.
Any way long story I know.
I'm looking for any advice from anyone who has had the same issues. Are there simply some adjustments I could be tweaking to get it smoother? Thanks
Ps. Could some tell me which plastic post to metal post everyone keeps mentioning in this thread? I can't the details in this thread. It is constantly referred to as "that post" lol.
Pss. Can't wait for all my bells and whistles to arrive.

Check to see if the plunger tip is hitting the ball square in the middle. Thinking it is not striking the ball on launch square which may cause the ball to not shoot straight or to catch air. Should be easy to adjust if so. You can also fling a ball up the shooter lane manually and see if anything is catching the ball. Not uncommon to have to adjust these kind of things.

I believe this is the metal post. It just replaces the stock plastic one which seems to be the main cause of bouncing the ball back down the orbit. Easy to replace.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17986

#13416 1 year ago

Probably help to take apron off. All you need to do is loosened the shooter rod assembly, move it, and then tighten it. Definitely looks like yours is off.

1 week later
#13518 1 year ago

No kidding. I suddenly become a pro hitting the right orbit when shooting for the scoop. Ball falls in the scoop by accident all during the game but rarely when you need it.

One cool trick that new owners may not be aware of is that you can get the ball to go into the scoop without even flipping on a plunge. Just hold down the left flipper on almost a full plunge. This let's the ball come around the orbit for a skill shot. Don't flip. Let the ball hit the left flipper and if you do it right it will bounce right into the scoop. Might require a little nudge. Tricky to do but pretty cool when it works.

#13523 1 year ago

I had a pretty awesome game last night. I had 2x running and cashed out a huge cui bonus. So awesome. Best I have ever done in a cui mode. One question, where does the mystery awards come from in cui modes? I've seen them as low as 2m and had one close to 20m last night. What are your high cui scores?

20180530_215209 (resized).jpg
#13527 1 year ago

I thought the mystery award just gave you a shot since it was often in the 2-4m range. I was just really surprised to get almost 20m. After giving me that award, game did then give me 50m for completing the ciu mode. I did have 2x running so maybe the mystery award was really 10m but that is still a lot for a mystery award.

@85Vette - what's wrong with your game? Switch column? Cool your daughter likes to play. I have a daughter who thinks pinball is stupid. My two boys used to play a little but can't be bothered now.

#13529 1 year ago

That sucks. Hate those kind of problems and not really good at figuring them out. I had some similar problems with my Congo and spent weeks looking over all the wiring. Eventually figured out loom that was hanging low was catching on the speaker mesh grill when the playfield was pushed in. Wire insulation was compromised and wires were shorting. Only thing I can think to suggest is just check over all the wiring. Did you call Stern? Maybe they can provide some help.

1 week later
#13569 1 year ago

Peeling decals were common on certain runs of the LED metal backbox versions I believe. That doesn't seem like a big deal since it's easy to fix. Is this a pro? Sounds like it if $3500. That's cheap and a lot of pin for the money.

#13595 1 year ago

MET awesome pin to start with. I also highly recommend colordmd. Touch pricey but looks so right. Stock red dmd just looks like butt in comparison. I also recommend going easy on mods. So easy to blow tons of money on all the mods available. Save for your next pin!

#13620 1 year ago
Quoted from XQ11:

Yeah I am holding down the left flipper, plunging the ball, and continuing to hold down the left flipper until it hits against the post. And I checked that the inserts do not light up for the super skill shot.

Do a check on all your switches. Maybe one is stuck closed. I would get out the manual and test every switch manually in the switch test with the glass off.

#13624 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Agreed with the above comments but I actually think it's the switch in the shooter lane that activates the post to drop. Not positive either but do a general switch test and I'd be surprised if you didn't fine one that wasn't working correctly.
And a tip since you may be new to ownership from your comment. Test the switches with a ball, not your finger. This is because your finger will actually push the switch down further than the ball sometimes and that slight difference could mean the differences between activating and not. I learned the hard way as I had on like that and it worked with my finger 100% of the time. Used a ball and nothing. Adjusted the switch and all was good again.

Now that you mention it, the super skill shot does trigger off the shooter lane switch. If you do a really soft plunge where the ball does not leave the shooter lane, the inserts should light for the super skill shot and then you only have a short time to make the shot. If you do not hold the left flipper on plunge, one of the top lanes should be flashing for a regular skill shot. I would start with that switch. Roll a ball up the shooter lane and see if there is a response.

1 month later
#13888 1 year ago

I just try to cradle the ball and focus on hitting the shot right off the end of the flipper. Sometimes it feels easier to shoot the scoop when the ball is moving. Shooting the left ramp and then the scoop sometimes works for me. I have been able to back hand it but that is tricky. You have to get the ball up on the flipper to do that.

4 weeks later
#14054 1 year ago

Colordmd looks fantastic in MET. It's easy to install and requires no cutting, soldering, or any hacks. It took me a while to do it the first time because I took my time to make sure I was doing it right. In the metal backbox, it does sit about an inch back from the speaker panel. That's why you need to extra hardware kit to get spacers and such. Good thing is vireland is making a gasket to fill in that gap to give it a much better finished look.

1 week later
#14108 1 year ago

Songs uneven? Like some are louder than others? Mine sounds fine but I usually only listen to one or two songs. Some songs are really quiet in long parts of the song but that's just how the song is. An external subwoofer helped make things sound better. Not sure about adding volume but definitely a step in right direction.

#14130 1 year ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Hi guys. Probably a common knowledge issue here but I could use some advice.
I've had my MET pro bnib from stern for 3mo now. My left flipper just started acting up today. It retracts really slow now like an air cylinder letting air out. Is the coil no good or is there and easier fix I should know about. I'm supposed to have people over to play on Friday so of course it chose now to act up. Thanks.
Also, should a home use pin be having these issues already?
Oh, also, also, is there a setting I'm missing for the ball eject to the launcher? Mine more often than not shoots the ball too hard and kicks it back down. It relaunches it of course but it really messes up flow. Especially if it cant launch the first ball in multiball. Thanks.

Not uncommon to have issues at any time including straight out of box. Check to make sure nothing is loose. You can manually try to kick out a ball and try to see what the ball is doing. Sounds like something is not aligned correctly or shifting when coil fires.

The flipper issue sounds similar to what I experienced a while back. The flipper flipped up okay but got sluggish coming down. I replaced the sleeve and then the coil but that did not fix it. I eventually just took everything apart including the flipper and cleaned. It was not too dirty but that fixed it.

#14141 1 year ago

Flipper hum normal. Someone documented how to fix it but too lazy to look for it. It doesn't bother me and I rarely hear it with sound cranked up.

2 weeks later
#14200 1 year ago
Quoted from Sixmillion:

Lovin my new pin, this game is hard to score big points on for me. I find I loose the ball a lot on the left and right outlanes. Some guys (Bowen, deadflip) make it look easy. I think I need to learn nudging more. I still need to get my game dialled in though. Why is it that sometimes 2 balls get sent in the shooter lane, is there a fix for this?[quoted image]

Nudging is key to pinball but it's definitely a skill. I don't know how the pros make it look so easy either. I can move my game a few feet over and it still drains lol. Easiest way to get big points in MET is do well in a CIU mode and cash out the jackpot with 2x multiplier. It really helps to learn the rules.

Two balls in the shooter lane sound like an opto issue in the trough. Fairly common issue. Try to reseat connectors down there and test all the optos in the switch test.

#14208 1 year ago
Quoted from Sixmillion:

How do you prevent this? I did notice sometime the ball tends to "stick" to the newton balls (coffin) at times. I do have the balls from pinball life which stated that they are good for games with magnets.

If balls magnetized, you need to replace them. You need carbon core balls but doesn't seem like any ball is complete safe from getting magnetized. Pinball life used to sell really nice premium balls that I had great success in games with magnets but I don't think they sell them anymore. Never see them in stock. Ballbaron.com seems like a good place to get balls but never tried them. Here is a thread about where guys are buying balls from:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/where-are-you-buying-balls-from

#14218 1 year ago

Are you sure balls are even magnetized? Get them out and see if they want to stick to each other. Magnetized balls may still work fine but can cause some problems. Only problem I remember having is balls staying stuck on magnets and needing some nudging to free them.

Stern factory balls do not have a good reputation. I replaced them right away on my Stern pins. Why take chances with using cheap, unknown basic balls on an expensive new pin?

1 week later
#14275 1 year ago

That's awesome! I normally don't care for a lot of stuck on stuff but that looks right at home there. Looks factory. It would be even better if it had something to tie into the flasher it covers up. How does it mount?

#14277 1 year ago

You could could out the 'M' and have a translucent red plastic piece to fill it in similar to the M's on the ramps. That would probably be difficult but would be perfect.

#14298 1 year ago

Gotta say that black t-molding looks pretty good since all the other trim is black. I never worked with t-molding. Figure it is easy but what do you need to do the job?

#14344 1 year ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I think it's because the cross is seen as a christian symbol and that isn't acceptable with some other countries. It's probably a setting so the game isn't banned in those other countries.
Rob

But the cross is still all over the playfield. Or is that changed, too?

#14385 1 year ago

How much would it of cost Stern to put spinners on pro? Doubt it would of been more than $20. Irritating that Stern just strips of inexpensive features so they can charge like $2000 more for premium.

#14401 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Mod Hunt:
Anyone know where I might find the simple Cross insert mask mod that was offered in the Classifieds section here for a while but is now gone?
The mod is a simple mask or frame that mounts to the underside of the PF beneath each Cross insert, stopping the lamp bleed that is visible otherwise when the Cross insert is lit, etc. I believe it came as a set of several masks and cost c. $25.
Thanks.

I got those and love them. Looks like they are no longer in the maketplace. PM DAMAGEINC55. He was the one selling them.

2 weeks later
#14494 11 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Speaking of the Pinbits plastics protectors...
I was trying to install my neon green protectors today and I ran into a snag (somewhat literally) on the graveyard protector. My original plastic was pretttttty snug in place and adding the extra plastic, I can't get the screws back on top! Most notably, the post that holds the flasher over the left ramp. Is there some sort of trick to getting this one on there? Am I doing something wrong? Is it possibly my posts are not installed correctly since I had such a problem with the original plastic even coming off? Also the screws in the back of the cross are SNUG up on the plastic, making getting the plastics on/off very difficult.

None of that needs to be that tight. I can't think of any tricks if there is not enough thread to secure both plastics. I don't think you really need plastic protectors anywhere except the slings. I would just leave it off.

#14533 11 months ago

Premium is great but it of course costs more. Pro delivers pretty much the same gameplay and features for much less. I do like the color changing gi and spinners in the premium but can do without the hammer, rising cross, and snack jaw.

#14568 11 months ago
Quoted from Pickle:

Just had to laugh...A Met Pro for sale for $7,750....over $3K in mods was just posted. A perfect example of spending more than just getting a premium. May as well buy an LE at that price.

No kidding. You could buy a pretty good game like a Shadow for $3000. That's the whole reason to get a pro - to save money and still get a great game.

#14597 11 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I haven't played mine for a while and was trying to explain the rules the other day about lighting/locking in the hurry up inserts to help advance to CIU. I can't remember how to get them started/flashing.

You light a shot by shooting it. One will be lit by default on plunge. Hitting the cross, sparky, and snake will light the insert for that shot. Once you get all three for a shot, then all inserts for that shot will be flashing. Hit that shot again and it will start the hurry up. Hit the captured ball to collect hurry up and lock in all the inserts for that shot the rest of the game. Collecting all the hurry ups will start Seek and Destroy but after that all inserts will reset.

#14601 11 months ago

I've had some good scores without doing well in CIU modes. Not really sure how but I find the Seek and Destroy and Blackened can really get you a lot of points. Regular multiballs not so much other than coffin multiball. If you can get coffin multiball going and bring in another multiball then that can pay off pretty well.

However, nothing will get you points like cashing out a great CIU bonus with 2x. For Whom the Bell Tolls is the best mode for points. Finish that mode and you get a nice bonus on top of all the points you get in the mode. Cash out with 2x and you will have well over 200m just from that. Frustrating thing is that you can have a great game, get to a CIU mode, and then drain right away. Man that sucks.

I can hit the fuel shot fairly regularly. It's a shot right off the edge of the right flipper. The mystery scoop is a hard shot for me. It seems like the ball falls into there accidentally multiple times in a game but I have trouble getting that shot when I need it.

#14652 11 months ago

I will have to check my coil sleeve then. I have the metal post and while it is far better than the plastic one, I still get bounce backs. Sometimes that is a good thing when the game counts it as another orbit shot. It doesn't bother me that much but do like to get my games working exactly as they are designed.

#14656 11 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Don't need to replace the springs. Just take them off and install them at a slightly shorter setting. I, personally, just cut off a half dozen or so windings and bend the last two down to make the springs shorter.

I did this on my ST drop target when it was not registering hits. Shortening the spring fixed it and never had a problem with it long after. You basically want the spring around 3/4 or 2/3 of the current length.

1 week later
#14754 11 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I have yet to set high scores on seek and destroy, blackened and of course end of the line.
I believe blackened is collecting all the band member picks, correct me if I'm wrong.
How do I go for seek and destroy?
Thanks

Blackened comes from hitting the pick targets. I'm not exactly sure how you exactly collect all band members from doing that but it happens if you hit all pick targets enough times. I don't get it very often but if I do it's during a long game.

3 weeks later
#15110 10 months ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Just happened to check pinside after 7 months of not being on and saw new code has dropped. Just installed it last night. I haven't played my Premium edition in a few months. Gotta try out the new code. Any settings to change right away before I play first game besides setting replay credits to extra balls? Photo of my machine updating code. Pinball Refinery didn't leave much extra wire to lay down there LED light board, oh well. Had game since 2014. Time to enjoy again.
[quoted image]

I was a little late updating as well but definitely worth doing. New code is fantastic. I got to the 4th CIU mode for the first time last weekend. Getting to EOTL now seems feasible. Never liked final wizard modes that were only possible to reach for elite players.

I forget where it is but there is a setting that clears high scores after a set number of games (2000 by default I believe). Turn that off. There is also family mode if you need that. That's all I changed so far.

#15146 10 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

After all these years, I still play this game the most. After all these years though, I still can't figure out the top two skill shot Lanes. What are we trying to do with those and do we want to roll over them when it's lit or not lit? I'm not talking about the skill shot, but during game play. Trying to figure out what they increase or do.

During gameplay, you want to light the 5 rollover lanes. Two up top and 3 inlane ones down low. Roll over to light them and flipper buttons to cycle them left or right. Light them all and you light mystery.

2 weeks later
#15394 9 months ago

Getting extra balls is all part of the fun in pinball for me.

1 month later
#15609 8 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Had a couple of peculiarities happen in recent games on my Pro, more than once.
1. Multiball starting at the start of a CIU mode. It's happened twice starting For Whom The Bell Tolls and once for Fade To Black. It's not a mode multiball, but the shooter lane starts kicking until balls come into play. They're recognized as extra balls in play because the mode doesn't end when you drain balls. My brother asked Lyman in that last MET stream with Dead Flip and he said that shouldn't happen. Anyone else having this?
2. Right ramp sometimes registers at the ramp entrance. I'm really confused about this one. There's not enough force on the ball to knock any switches but sometimes it'll get maybe 1/4 of the way up the incline but still register the ramp. I don't think the ramp switch is needing adjustment since it doesn't happen any other time when playing. It's also not consistently happening but maybe 5% of the time. The ramp should register as it goes through the gate switch at the top, right? There's no opto sensor, right?
edit: I'm running the latest code.

Check all switches and optos. Sounds like trough switch errors for #1 issue. Does it happen when ball save is on? Could be game thinks ball drained and kicks out another ball. For #2 issue, try banging on the pf and ramp in the menu switch test. I've had optos work fine in testing but trigger on vibrations. Sounds like the opto is triggering when the ball hits the ramp.

#15615 8 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Interesting that it would only happen at the start of a CIU mode and not any other time though. It kicks out a two extra balls, so not every ball in the trough and not just one either. And it acknowledges that there are 3 balls in play. Again it's only happened 3 times out of the last 50 or so instances of starting a CIU mode.
I just had the right ramp issue again. Which switch should I be checking here? I kinda bricked the shot and it bounced between the pick targets, but registered the ramp (and the pick targets).

That is weird. I just think it has to be a switch. Everything is triggered off of switches. Maybe there is something weird in code like a bug that is triggered by a random faulty switch. I remember my Getaway doing some strange scoring when the ramp opto was out. I would suggest checking every switch in the game

I first thought there was optos on the ramps but just checked my game. It has micro switches triggered by the gates. I would check to see if they are loose or trigger easily by banging on ramp.

#15646 8 months ago
Quoted from ED-209:

Thanks so much and didn’t realize the LED was the dot version as it seems like a lot of people favor the dots one vs. the non-dot.
I’ll definitely get some protectors, assuming the plastics one from Pinbits is good as that’s where I got my MMR protectors.

Thanks for the details as I’m new to the ColorDMD and didn’t realize the LCD could do any of the patterns and wasn’t just limited to the non-dots version as I prefer dots compared to the other version. Seems like trade offs with both. Guess I’ll have to keep watching some more vids and/or try to find some samples locally.
Thank you everyone for the tips, advice and suggestions.

The LED is a direct replacement. The LCD is basically a laptop display and has to be mounted an inch or so back on MET. Vireland makes a cool gasket that fills the gap and gives it a nice finished look. I think colordmd sells it now and highly recommend it. I prefer the look of the LCD and you have a handful of display options. If you are not sure which one to get, just go with LCD. LED is mostly for games like CV where the LCD will not fit.

I wouldn't overdo the mods. Easy to spend hundreds if not thousands on mods and hard to get that money back. Besides the stuff you mentioned, I suggest an external subwoofer if you can find one cheap. I also really like the following - cheap and effective:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1087-wcp/00873-cross-pattern-light-blocking-insert-metallica-pro-premium-le

#15648 8 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I would recommend overdoing the mods
I have lots on my met and absolutely love them. Pinball is about fun, so getting all my money back is not the goal.
[quoted image]

True but I see pins for sale with $2000-$3000 in mods and think that could of bought you another pin. For new guys, I think it would be far better to get that 2nd or 3rd pin than going crazy on mods for just one pin.

#15669 8 months ago
Quoted from msarac:

So, go update your DMD and bust out a new GC score![quoted image]

I couldn't get 4 billion even if I took the glass off. Impressive!

#15746 8 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

My pro is having some weird issues...
It's stopped allowing me the super skill shot option intermittently. It'll pop up the orbit stopper even while I'm holding the left flipper for about 5-10 balls, then stop for another 10-20 balls, then start again. [edit: I just noticed after walking back over to play a game that it's counting the right orbit when coming off the plunger lane. It's never done that before and I assume it shouldn't. Anyone had this happen? What's the deal?]
Also possibly some trough switch issue? I started a grave multiball and didn't kick out the second ball for the longest time, I eventually hit the snake BEFORE hitting the snake and it kicked out two more balls. You shouldn't ever have all 4 balls during graveyard, right?
ALSO, has anyone experienced completed lanes no longer being lit mid-ball? I had my graveyard shots completed and then after a multiball, it was suddenly not lit anymore and I had to re-complete the snake, electric chair and grave shots.
Has my code gotten corrupted or something? Gremlins up in here.

Everything in the game is controlled by switches. I would check each one and make sure each works and only one switch triggered at a time. Also bang around playfield to see if any switches trigger by vibrations.

Grave mb should only be 3 balls with the added ball. I would check trough switches.

Do you mean the shot inserts that were lit are cleared? If you complete all of them (all chair, snake, and cross inserts lit) you will start Seek and Destroy. The music will change and you will see the Seek and Destroy animations on screen. However, if start Seek and Destroy during a mb or CIU mode, the music will not change and not sure if you will see animations. You will still hear callouts of a countdown and things like "c'mon!". Eventually the mode will end and all inserts will reset.

In general, if you are suspecting issues with gameplay, test with the glass off. Manually hit switches and see if things are working correctly.

#15748 8 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Yes, shot inserts that were lit (and completed) were cleared but not all of them, just the graveyard. A few weeks ago the right ramp did the same thing. I definitely hadn't progressed enough to reach S&D either time. I also hadn't started a single CIU at that point with the graveyard incident.

You sure all the inserts were lit and the hurry up was completed? If not all the inserts were lit or if the hurry up was started but not completed, the inserts will reset after a drain. During a ball, any lit inserts should stay lit. CIU modes will use inserts for their own purpose but you should go back to normal after the mode ends. If inserts go out and you have to redo them after having them lit during normal gameplay, something is not right. I have an issue with one insert where the bulb is finicky. Sometimes it flakes out and does not work for a while. Maybe you are having bulb issues? I would definitely test with the glass off and try to duplicate the issue. If there is some goofy things going on and all the switches work, I would reload the latest code. You can also have the game do a memory check on boot - I think you hold both flippers while you turn it on to do so.

#15758 8 months ago

Nice catch!

#15802 8 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Does anyone know an accurate part number for the flasher inside the grave marker cross on a Pro? The manual lists it as part number 112-5041-08, but when I look at the picture of that part on the Marco site it looks far too large to fit inside the body of the cross. Someone posted a while back that it was a standard 906 flasher but that’s also too large to fit. This pic is what was in it (and I don’t think it ever worked since I got the game NIB) and a 906 flasher for comparison. Any help appreciated![quoted image]

You sure it does not work? Try bending out the wires to the outside of the bulb for better contact. I have to do this to all the led bulbs I install in games because if not half of them will not work.

#15854 7 months ago

I got the pinnovator kit. I prefer spending a little extra to get a clean and proper connection. You know it's going to work the best so why mess with clips and sketchy connections. I also prefer the LCD colordmd. LED is too bright and too much contrast for my tastes. I believe it can be adjusted but LCD looks perfect out of the box. Only issue with LCD is that it has to be mounted back around an inch on games like MET because of how metal backbox designed. Plan on getting the gasket to seal the edges and give it a clean look. LED is a direct replacement and doesn't need extra stuff so quite a bit cheaper.

Polk psw10 is perfect and really brings the sound up a notch. Mine stopped working, though. It's blowing fuses as soon as you plug it in even with the power switch off. Makes a hum sound for a few seconds then it's done. Emailed customer service and hope they can help me sort it out. Nothing looks fried on the inside so no idea what's wrong.

#15860 7 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Sorry to hear that, how old is it?

Like 2.5 years old. I was hoping it was one of those easy problems pins often have like loose wire or fuse. It 's not going to be too expensive to replace but like to know what happened to it. Maybe Metallica is just too metal for it lol. Hoping I can just mail the guts to Polk and they can fix it for free.

Quoted from ED-209:

Thanks again everyone for the help and advice, Polk sub and Pinnovator’s sub kit ordered.
Does the sub need to be on the ground for the best sound or does it matter? I just didn’t know if it would be better if it was higher up and closer to chest level? I have a small table next to the pins and curious if putting the sub higher up would be better than underneath the pin.
Does the sub only produce bass or does it also produce any mid sound?
I’ll try this recommended setup before I try to upgrade the back box speakers.
I appreciate the help.

Just put it under the pin and it will sound fine. It's only bass but does make things sound better. I wouldn't replace the backbox speakers. I don't think you are going to improve the sound that much and not worth it. Save money for mods that make a huge difference like colordmd or for the next pin.

#15873 7 months ago

Do the stock speakers sound bad to you? They sound fine to me. I just wouldn't expect much better sound from a pin and rather save $150.

#15907 7 months ago

I have pro led and it shuts down immediately without any sound or messages. Never seen a game stay on for a while after switched off.

#15913 7 months ago
Quoted from Supersquid:

Or you can get these where it doesn't wash out the art in color since the middle is cut out and still have color on the edges.
https://truecolorprotectors.com/products/metallica-pro-pinball-truecolor-plastic-protectors

I don't recommend those. I got them and all sling protectors broke fairly quick. With the cutout, plastic is just too thin and weak. Just get the solid clear ones. I like the color but not at expense of turding up artwork.

Speaking of slings, anyone have problem of slings causing airballs? Mine can send balls flying. Had right sling throw ball completely over playfield into left outlane last night during a CIU mode. Pissed me off. Seems to be worse lately and none of my other games do this.

#15915 7 months ago
Quoted from John_I:

If the switches open up some it allows the ball to push further back on the rubber before it kicks. This may cause the ball to lift off easier. Might want to check the switches.

Didn't think of that but you are right. They are gaped pretty wide especially the right one. Going to adjust them. Thanks!

#15932 7 months ago

Easier to start cross and coffin mb's, too. Don't think anyone here as anything bad to say about game. Best Stern game imo. MBr is fun but kind of shallow. GB has some serious faults and code lacking. Give Octoberfest time to mature and see if worth getting down road. Easy to find nice huo MET for fair price. Game proven winner. No brainer.

#15941 7 months ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

I agree with Damien. I would say Im slightly above average, and I pretty much beat MB after a few games on location. GB I just cant get into. I have played a ton of games on it, but there is just something off for me on it. Oktoberfest, well, I played it at Expo and it seemed ok and has some cool shots, but hard to say at this point. Theme is meh to me, but code could make it awesome. Waiting to play the finished version to see if shots are actually ok unlike Houdini.
I bought Metallica because I got a decent deal on it. I was a little torn because I love the layout, but band pins just aren't my thing (even though I do like the band in this case). I figured I would play it for a few months then get rid of it for something else. Well, its been a few months and I can honestly say that it wont leave my collection. The rules are awesome, it has a good layout, and it can kick your ass. Same reasons I love TWD. Out of your choices, to me its the best choice by far.

I pretty much have the exact some opinions except not played Oktoberfest. I really wanted to like GB. Great theme and that world under the glass thing. When it came out, I was all set to buy one and loved it the first few times I played it. After getting more plays over time, the fun factor took a sharp dive. MET was the exact opposite. I didn't like it at first because not really a fan of band or art work. First few times playing it didn't really excite me either. Once I started learning some rules and got some more playtime, I was hooked. I've had mine for a few years and still love playing it. Game has the perfect balance where nothing is too hard but still a challenge. Only downside imo is that it's not exactly family friendly.

#15946 7 months ago

If you go into switch test, do you see other switches trigger when you hit the pick target?

#15979 7 months ago

That hammer looks awesome!

1 week later
#16024 6 months ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

Quick question about the grave marker shot, and the magnet and hoping someone else has noticed this. On my pro, my magnet/opto do seem to be working fine when I do the Grave Marker Multiball.
What I noticed with this game a long time ago, and I am pretty sure I have seen other Metallicas that I've played do this, but with a different multiball mode... say electric chair multiball for example, if during the multiball I happen to knock down all of the gravemarker drop targets, with further shots, the magnet doesn't really seem to do anything in terms of activating to soften the impact on the decorative cross grave marker at the end of the shot. It seems to me that the magnet should activate and fling the ball back at you, or at least that would make sense.
Has anyone else noticed this on their Metallica, and maybe even had the cross break from impacts over time?

That is the correct behavior it that's what you are asking. The magnet is only used for the cross multiball. Slinging the ball around would probably cause more pf wear and not sure I would want that. Never heard of the cross breaking and there are plenty things on a playfield that take direct hits.

4 weeks later
#16158 6 months ago

+1 on Polk PSW10 powered sub and Pinnovators sub kit for easy plug and play. There are cheaper ways to get it done but not worth the hassles imo. Don't think every pin needs a subwoofer but definitely a great addition to MET.

1 week later
#16192 5 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

Anyone have issues with rear post divertor? On my game sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Last time it was working I went into test mode and made it go up about three times then it stopped working. When it is not working during game play I tried test mode and doesn’t work. If it was a bad transitor wouldn’t it not work all the time?

Sounds like a loose connection or cold solder. Try pulling on the coil wires and see if any are loose. I had similar problem on different game where wire was loose but still looked like it was soldered in place.

#16197 5 months ago
Quoted from Chappie101:

finnflash If you mean the Translite yes it was locked, that was the first thing I checked, when I put the speaker panel back in I was pulling it back and forward to see if I could replicate it but couldn't. There is some leeway from left to right on the speaker panel maybe 1/4" but it sure looks like it's locked in on the tabs pretty good. I'm at a total loss as to how/why it happened but thankful there was no damage.

Sounds like you did not have the speaker panel put in correctly and it was sticking out. It should never pop up with any movement of the pin since it has to be lifted up and out.

#16204 5 months ago

At least you figured out what fell off. I hate it when find the thing that fell off but no idea where it goes.

#16241 5 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

My MET seems off from the rest of my pins. Most of them have the rear legs turned out 1/3 to 1/2 the way out to get to 6.5 degrees.
On my MET, I have to almost turn them out to the very highest position to get 6.5.
Anyone else experience this with MET?

Mine pro is not like that. Are you measuring on the glass or the pf?

#16246 5 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I use a digital torpedo, and with the legs cranked all the way out, the level in the center of the pf reads 6.5.
How are you getting 6.8-6.9?

Try taking measurements at different areas of pf like at flippers or up top.

#16264 5 months ago

I'm not really a fan. Heard there songs on the radio over the years but never was really into that type of music. I had no interest in the pin at first but the more I played it the more I liked it. Learned that theme really doesn't matter. How that theme is executed is what is important. I like how the hand drawn art turning the band members into monster creatures. I love the animations, bass thumping sounds, and callouts by the band members. Some of the callouts are kinda flat but that's part of the charm. Rules are brilliant and well balanced. Always different things to shoot for and just the right amount of strategy without getting too complicated.

2 weeks later
#16356 4 months ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Yeah. My scores always go down after waxing because the ball moves so much faster.

No kidding. Games are often unplayable after fresh wax because ball is too fast. What are some tips for blowing up a score like that? I get a pretty good game going once in a while but nothing like that.

3 weeks later
#16428 3 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Increase the tension on the spring of the drop target.

This. Just shorten the spring by a third or so. I had same trouble with drop target on ST pro I used to own and shorten spring fixed it 100%.

2 weeks later
#16498 3 months ago

Colordmd LCD panels fit better in wood backbox models. Also heard that playfields in older models had more vibrant colors but not sure about that. I forget the dates, but there was a run that had a playfield issues of ghosting inserts and chipping clearcoat. I got my pro around that time and had a few ghosting inserts but clearcoat fine. There are also issues with decals peeling off backbox on the metal versions.

Mechanically, both versions are exactly the same as far as I know. Both use SAM boards and play exactly the same. LED version still used traditional lamp sockets and regular 2smd bulbs.

2 weeks later
#16525 84 days ago

The hammer does make it harder to see the coffin target and is a large item floating out in the middle of the playfield. True it does not really block a shot but just distracting imo. Guess you get used to it. I would love to have a premium but feel like pro better value. Only thing I really miss on the pro is spinners. So stupid Stern made spinners a premium feature.

#16538 81 days ago
Quoted from Bacondaddy:

Hey all, just recently joined the club with a NIB Metallica Pro. This is my first pin, and it's even more fun having this thing than I thought -- it's a blast to play at will with the kids!
I do have one problem though -- the Fuel standup target hasn't worked since we got the machine, which appears to just be the switch itself since it does trip the diagnostic if I short across the switch. I should be able to get a replacement switch from the distributor we bought from, but I've gotta replace the thing myself. It looks like I can remove the old switch and put in a new one from below the playfield, which I'm hoping is true 'cause working from above will involve removing a lot of pieces to get to it.
Any advice for a newbie on replacing this switch? Being a first time pin owner this is all new to me.

Check if the switch is stuck closed. Think that is a leaf switch but not sure. If so, you might just need to adjust it by bending the blades apart. Common problem. You will need to lift the playfield to check or replace the switch. If you have not done that, look for videos to help you get start. It's really easy. Just undo the pf latches by reaching in the coin door, then lift the playfield up and out. To slide back in, you will need to reach around the back of the playfield to lift it up as you slide it in. Always turn off power when working under the playfield.

#16543 81 days ago
Quoted from Bacondaddy:

Thanks jawjaw! I have been under the playfield looking for the problem (checking for loose wires, connections, etc.). I've also been using the switch diagnostic in the maintenance menus, which indicates the switch is open and does not register when I bounce a ball off the target. I also confirmed that if I short a wire across the lugs on the switch the diagnostic does indicate the expected switch close, which is why I'm thinking it's a problem with the switch itself (no downstream wiring problems for instance).
It does appear to be a leaf switch, so it's possible there's some problem with the contacts being bent. Maybe they're bent too far apart so they can't make contact? Regardless the next step seems to be pull the switch and look for problems like that, and possibly replace it. That's why I'm wondering how much of a mess it'll be removing and disconnecting the switch. Hopefully it's an entirely under the playfield operation so I don't have to remove stuff like the left ramp and the plastic over the fuel lane off the top.

Blades could be too far apart. It should be pretty obvious if switch contacts are touching when you press the target. Seriously doubt this switch is "bad". It either needs adjusting or maybe clean the contacts.

#16558 77 days ago
Quoted from Bacondaddy:

So indeed it turned out to be the contacts. Once I had the switch out I was able to clean the contacts with some super fine sandpaper (wiping alone didn't really do the trick), and now all seems good. Thanks for the advice.

Glad you got it figured out.

#16572 76 days ago

Does my Sparky magnet look mushroomed bad? I tried removing the magnet core but the nut will not budge. I then tried removing the whole magnet assembly but it will not budge either. I understand the nut can be very tight but the whole assembly? I'm afraid to get too aggressive and damage playfield. Any advice would be appreciated.

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#16576 75 days ago