terry @ pinballlife.com has a set in fluorescent green which are separate protectors for the inlanes and the slings
of those owners here that have installed the mylar magnet protectors, which ones seem to work the best? I know that marco's carry a larger one (listed under iron man), and others have been using a smaller circle from terry @ pinballlife.com
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Sounds like the hunt begins then.
Also wondering since Metallica has become so popular, what are the chances of an "ACDC Luci" scenario where another Premium version gets released at a later date due to demand? Speculation I know, but if it's such a great pin & the demand is there, it seems like a no brainer.
maybe it's just me, but my thought was that the "monster premium" was essentially the same scenario as what "luci" was
automated still has one (but they want $8,300 for it, $8,800 for the dirty donny one with the autographed and painted items). I picked up the last one that the gameroomguys had last month
edit: correction, it looks like automated sold their last ones as well
S37VEN hasn't made his wireform mod in quite a while. I'm still waiting for him to produce another run to get one (and I contacted him back in april and a few times since then).
Quoted from tommyp:
Are the coffin, grave, snake, and sparky counters supposed to carry over ball to ball? I feel like mine dont. I gotta pay closer attention....but I feel like they reset after each ball, which would seem to make the crank it up modes harder to reach.
the sparky counter does carry over from ball to ball. otherwise, you would need 10 hits in a single ball for every ball in the game to score it. since mine is still residing in the garage in its shipping box, I can't check.
however, the easiest way to verify this is to play one ball and then check the status (using the flipper buttons) prior to launching ball number 2. it displays your progress for all of the modes and how many hits are still required for each.
here you go todd
Quoted from GravitaR:
Entirely useless info provided by jim.
it was useful for those that don't need to be spoonfed, however here's the "I'm a baby and can't search for myself list" just for todd
- added shaker motor
- replaced newton "block" with a proper newton ball system (for LE/premium only)
- snake fangs
- sparky EL wire for skullcap
- mylar magnet protection
- neon ball guide protectors
- playfield plastic protectors
- sparky protector
pm rickwh here on pinside.com
- wire wire ball guide (plastic sneeze guard replacement)
pm S37VEN here on pinside.com (he's making one last batch)
- mystery hole guard (I doubled up my protection and purchased both the mantis and cliffy style protectors)
- cliffy protectors (mystery scoop, shooter lane eject protectors [3 pcs])
additional things to consider:
tim mezel offers some nice 3D printed stand-up target splints that keep the targets from bending backwards (which eventually lead to "air balls") and bases for those spot lights to sit in so that the metal hex posts do not tear up the sling plastics
on a lighter note, blackened and S&D coloring is looking great mike!
Quoted from PinballMikeD:
The "M" is for
I've corrected that for you
here's a quick stab at what mike d proposed (it still needs a bit of "clean up", but this was just about 10 mins worth of converting and some quick refinements
and adjusted to 16 total colors to fit the palette restrictions
re-centered and resized to the correct 128x32 dimensions (not sure how I missed that the first time)
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:
It's a lot of mechanism for very little effect.
I somewhat agree. it's still a really cool effect, but had they made it a square tombstone, it could have been hidden all of the way "under the playfield" (acting like a rollover target), with a switch behind it that could have triggered raising it. the assy could have still doubled like it does (w/ the switch inside it) to trigger hitting "it" for the magnet lock feature.
and yeah, I've got ADD so I've picked up a ton of "back-up" parts for my monster premium including the graveyard marker and disappearing ball assy's. it's amazing how heavy both of those mechanisms are
Quoted from Pinterest:
Ok - so I really want a pair of these - did anyone pick up a set and not use them or get an extra they would sell?
does anyone not search any more before asking? this took me all of 10 seconds to find with a google search. geez people
Quoted from Pinterest:
Yeah dipsh*t - I did search - paid for a pair - money was refunded. They are out of stock and he is not making more.
before you go off on me, at least I was trying to help you out. no where did you say that you had already attempted to order from them, did you? nice social skills
Quoted from Pinterest:
I do realize that the written word is very precise and not everyone has the capacity to master it's nuances. I accept the possibility that I misinterpreted your intent and will comment no further about it.
apology accepted and here's mine. you're absolutely correct, humor and sarcasm fall short with the written word. I was attempting to be a bit humorous because you did not indicate that you had ordered them from pin-protectors and were refunded.
I find it odd that they are still listed and you can still add them to your cart. if he's not planning on making any more, either remove them from the site or at the very least mark them as "out of stock".
Quoted from Iaintnobodydork:
On my pro the autolauncher is to weak to get the ball on the playfield about 2/3's of the time and the other 1/3 it fires the ball as it should. Everything seems normal but I'm guessing I'm missing something. Any suggestions? Charlie
I thought it was earlier in this thread (but I can't find it now), someone mentioned loosening the bracket for the auto-launcher, adjusting it so that it is striking the direct center of the ball, and then re-tightening everything back up.
edit: dmieczko beat me to the punch
it looks like they inserted the "live" wire into the wrong socket position.
I would verify with CT first, but if you've got access to a molex connector pin extractor, you can simply push the pin back out of the socket and then re-insert it into the correct one.
Quoted from swampfire:
I mylared that edge from day one. The ball bounces off the back of the metal trough and hits that pretty regularly, so I would expect chipping without some kind of protection. Cliffy needs to come up with a protector for this area; I bet it would sell well.
I spoke with mr. rinear the other day and he is working on a solution (or two). apparently, stern has changed the shape of the cut-out for the ball drain so there will probably be a few variations available when he completes them.
the only translite that you can readily find is the standard pro edition. one of the vendors @ expo had a few that were autographed by donny gillies for $175
I wouldn't pay over $80 for a stock pro translite
Quoted from ultimategameroom:
Is there any way to get a master of P?
not unless you find one on ebay from someone who's purchased one and doesn't want it. stern is pretty adamant about not selling parts from their LEs to the public.
in fact, with LE backglasses/translites, in order to get a replacement, you have to return your defective part in order to get a new one mailed out to you.
you're such a tease! much like the girl who says she's dirty but will only let you touch her over the bra
marco's offers pre-cut mylar protectors for the magnets (but they're a bit more expensive than stuff you could cut yourself). here's a link:
yeah, they say they are for iron man, but work will all games with magnetics
I never saw the white ones available yesterday. must have missed that. I would have preferred that to the chrome version
same thing happened to me as well. what kind of crappy website in this day and age doesn't know how much inventory is available?!?
I know for a fact that I was charged and they are then crediting my account back with money they took for the product. unacceptable.
I have those as well and I'm thinking about fitting green EL paper behind instead of the green sticker paper that it came with if I can find panels large enough in a [lit] green color that I like (most of them are a washed out "pale" green). I'm holding out for something more fluorescent like the artwork on the cabinet
(2) 4cm x 20cm panels for the side rails and (2) 4cm x 10cm panels for the hinges? (I'm @ work and don't have them with me to measure)
a lot of 5 pcs. of 14cm x 20cm ea can be purchased for 97usd from this seller
they show it being powered by a 5v usb inverter, which is less than the others @ 12v
from the looks of it, for about $70, you can purchase everything necessary to run 4 panels (cut from a single A3 sized sheet) to a single inverter that has a 12v line in that you would tap into from the cabinet
Quoted from WJxxxx:
Have you fitted the rails yet? I've just done it and the holes are smaller than on the original side rails meaning I can't use the original bolts on the top and bottom of the rails. Currently I've just got the screws holding them on, so they're not earthed⚠, I'd better source some narrower gauge bolts before playing too much!
not yet, but I'll look at the size of the holes in the side rails tonight. the MET premium is still sitting NIB in the garage (and I got chastised by john borg @ expo about that, since it's been that way for about 7 months now). mr. borg told me that we can't be friends until I open up the game
Quoted from sadler28:
Have a Sparky issue. His head doesn't bounce around when electrocuted. Never did when I took it out of the box, but hear it clicling like it is supposed to. Did something get disconnected during shipment or do I need to change something in the settings? Anything else I need to do? Thanks in advance for the help!
the head is simply a bobble-head on a spring. there is a coil that gets fired causing the chair to rock back and forth which causes the head to bounce around. I know that originally stern shipped the machines with a big block of foam around the head to keep them from getting damaged. is there anything inside his noggin that was not removed when you set the machine up?
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:
At least somebody has a spare Sparky. Stern is like the Grinch with them now.
oh, you can still purchase them, but you will pay for them. oh yes, you will pay
10, try to find them in 2 years time. stern really needs to get their act together on this stuff. there's good money to be made by them (and I don't mean by charging stupid prices) by cataloging people who purchase their machines and allowing them to purchase replacement parts.
I would be truly surprised if the market wasn't large enough that it could wholly sustain itself and I don't think that it would cannibalize sales of new machines that badly. someone needs to snatch up sternparts.com quickly
I've managed to "source" a few of the premium translites for my collection (MET monsters, AC/DC luci), however it wasn't easy, nor was it cheap.
I have the feeling that the only way that these "extras" seem to make it out of the building since stern will not sell them outright is that they [fell off of the delivery truck] or were thrown out [by accident]
it's a shame that "die die my darling" is such a short song. great beat to that one from beginning to end (even though it's a misfits cover)
Quoted from rai:
Nice, how much do 3D printers cost?
some are as low as $350 now
homedepot and bestbuy carry the makerbot line:
heck, staples carries one that will allow you to build stuff up to 6"x6"x6" in size for under $400
the one from formlabs is a bit more pricier, but really nice as it uses a liquid resin which is solidified (and the resolution is higher equaling a smoother finish on end product
if I was rich, I'd have won of those 3D printers that does metal using it in powder form. unfortunately, I am not independently wealthy
the fact that it can not only print metal, but also deliver a product in any of the following finishes is truly amazing
Raw Finish, Shot Peen, Shot Blast, Mirror Polish, Medium Polish, Brush Finish
Quoted from RTS:
Bonking into a closed snake jaw slows the ball more than the speed it ejects from the snake.
The premium is not a bad game at all. In fact it's a great game. Actually, it's a fantastic game.
(pro is better though)
and "the pin" was the best version of transformers, nay, the best pinball machine released ever!
everyone is allowed their own opinion. however, your opinion and mine may differ. you may think that the pro is better. I don't
the closed jaw of the snake on the LE/premium allows the ball to continue (slowed down as it may be), whereas shooting it into the mouth on the pro, causes a stoppage in play (much like the same delay that you are stating that the slamming the balls down into the physical lock area [subway] on the LE/premiums).
to me, the actuating jaw is a great visual cue on when I should be shooting it
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:
I knew up until around 2010, all Stern games INCLUDED FULL MANUALS! <snip> It is somewhat unbelievable games have no manuals, as they are critical for maintenance requirements.
<snip>Rails, lock bars, slides, knockers, etc, etc.<snip>
yeah, I agree that many of the changes that stern has made is strictly to help preserve their "bottom line", but to be honest, I think that the luggage lock-downs are actually a bit nicer and more sturdy than the old b/w lock down receiver. I've seen way too many games lately where the brass screws were not set properly and the lock down bar is loose and/or ends up damaged because the metal used isn't as thick and sturdy as it once was. (yep, yet another cost saving measure. but one that all of the current pinball manufacturers are guilty of)
I think that stern's downloadable manual solution has it's pluses and minuses. yeah, you're not getting a physical, printed manual if you're a pro owner, but the digital versions are easy to search, and accessible for operations and home users alike. you don't have to worry about the digital version getting all dog-eared, smudged or otherwise messed up and if you can't locate it, downloading it again is just a few clicks away.
if I recall, JJP owners didn't receive a manual for their machines either, but that $100 "tome" for WOZ must have weighted at least 3-4 lbs and was out of date even before it was printed given all of the changes and updates that have been made to the game since launch.
it's much more cost effective for a company to keep the latest version of their guides in electronic form vs. having to scrap whatever remaining stockpiled out-of-date stuff is still sitting around when changes occur.
personally, I love the physical manual, but found it's just as easy (if not more so) to view the digital versions rather than have to sort through an original guide and potentially a stack of service update addendum's
those look pretty sweet joe. I'm on board for purchasing them once they are available
btw, those "white boxes" are ferrites. they are used to reduce or eliminate RF noise
it is surprising that stern is using 2 of them in sequence on the same wire section, because "yes", that makes that particular run of wire heavy
a zip tie on both ends (outside of the ferrites) will reduce the strain on the IDC connectors (but will add an extra step when you need to actually remove the connector
welcome to the club the colorDMD animations are fantastic for both metallica and ac/dc
the ColorDMD is only utilizing about 1/3 of the total area of its lcd panel, so there isn't the light leakage that the original dmd produces at the edges of the display
you should purchase a desktop sized run-dmd clock kit and take advantage of that original LED dmd that is now just sitting around
Quoted from WJxxxx:
Finally got round to fitting EL Paper to light up the cut-out side rails.
Have even got enough left over to backlight the apron where the score cards go, just need to design/create a template now.
this is on my "to do" list but I haven't found the right color green EL paper yet. where did you get yours from?
are you referring to yourself? if so, unless you're jimmy from senfield, stop it!
I've completed migrating all of mike d's original macro to 1.64 for smartdmd and am now starting to work on animations that were not completed.
here's an idea of what I'm thinking for "the end of the line"
I like the idea. have you thought about simply using a mirrorized decal and affixing it to the inside of ramp side wall? it may not give you a perfect image, but should be clear enough to see the lane inserts (albeit a bit distorted from the curvature of the ramp)
my guess is licensing costs. be happy that you have 12. that's 8 more than mustang pro owners have
ok, I'm finally officially in the club now. it only took me 1 year, 2 months, and 5 days to un-box my monster premium
I've swapped out the side rails and hinges with these
and am currently going through my "punch out" list before the first game is played. it's going to be a rockin' 4th of july this year
I'm finally finishing up "bullet proofing" and modding up my premium before firing the first ball. I think that I'm going to put together a check-list of sorts with lessons learned/tips so that other people aren't left scratching their heads.
here's a for instance:
I didn't dawn on me until I removed the rubber rings from the original red in-lane guides at the top that one side of those plastic posts are wider than the other. I changed my out to blue (to match the play field art) and since I was doing that, I didn't even think to remove the rubber rings (since I was also changing out all of the rubber rings to titan's silicone product.
however, after getting about 3/4 of the way through the process, I was left scratching my head as to why I still had these (2) 5/16" ID rings and had nearly gone through all of the 3/16" ID rings
btw, the [wider] section should be positioned at the bottom (where the ball exits out to the pop bumpers. the far right lane guide uses a 7/16" ID ring that bridges between the wider post column of the lane guide and a metal post.
changing the rubber on this machine is still quite the b*tch given the amount of parts that you have to tear off (including the right ramp and most of the plastics behind the snake near the pop bumpers to change out 3 more of those little 7/16" OD rings that fit over the spear type metal posts since they are [hidden] under the that plastic.
also, look forward to spending a good hour or more removing all of the above and the hammer to change out the newton block to a captured ball set up. (however, I am liking the choice that I made going with one of matt's (back alley creations) black pearl balls for the captured ball
yes, my snake will get his teeth (soon). it looks like the easiest way to do that is to remove the entire mech to gain access to that elusive screw inside his mouth to loosen up the area between the head and the metal plate and insert his new dentures
how do you adjust the shooter rod housing so that it strikes the ball in the center? I finally got through everything and noticed that the rod is striking the ball to the right side of center and I don't see any way (other than shimming) to change the angle of the shooter rod since it's just attached using the 3 screws to pin both sides of the cabinet
Quoted from LOTR_breath:
Whenever the shooter rod is not centered on the ball, the first thing I check is to see if the playfield can be moved in the correct direction. Just lift it up out of the receiver and set it back down in the direction it needs to move.
the problem is that stern has little metal shims screwed into the inside of both sides of the cabinet which basically "auto center" the playfield as it's dropped down and placed into the receiver.
I will see if there is any slack to move it one direction or the other. otherwise, there has to be some adjustment on the shooter rod assembly
well, my issue turned out the be the cliffy lane protectors (which I had to tear out). I'm not sure which machine cliffy modeled them after, but I had issues with all three pieces. the 2 lane guide protectors protruded out to far leaving the balls riding on the sharp edge of the metal. removing the outer one is what caused my balls to careme off-center with side spin up the launch lane.
additionally, the holes for the side rail guide were not positioned to allow the guide to hug the side rail. my guess is that stern has cheapened up over the years and the siderails are now just a smidge narrower.
which cliffys did you install? I put in both the mantis type and cliffy for the mystery hole, but could not get the shooter lane cliffys to work. they were sticking out to far and caused the ball to launch very strangely (like with side spin)
Quoted from V4Vendetta:
so i lifted the playfield to check all the connectors were on tight and to see if I can level the magnet and this is what i saw.
ouch! that looks like the shims on the inside of the playfield gouged the sides of the playfield really bad. were the insides of the cabinet scratched up as well? not that it affects play, but this is definitely something that I wouldn't be happy about and would relay the photos to the distributor that you purchased the game from. you might get an un-populated board for your trouble.
if you do manage to get a populated playfield (as a swap), be aware that it's still quite a bit of work to perform the swap. there are a lot of cable ties that need to be cut and you will have to unplug all of the connectors from the left side harness at the back box. for some reason, there are molex connectors for the right side harness under the playfield, but none for the left side ones (which would have made a swap so much easier).
I thought that I was good with my shooter rod, but apparently not. I'm going to go back in tonight and remove the 2 red screws completely. even with them loosened, there's not enough "give" to move the rod over enough so that it's striking the ball in the center on a consistent basis
for the auto plunge shooter, has anyone "tightened" up the hinge point so that there's less side-to-side slop in it? I've noticed that for multi-ball modes, some of the balls launch perfectly, while others (it's about 50-50) seem to be struck off center and kind of wobble up the shooter lane. given that there are 5 screws that hold that assembly in place, you would think that the QA/QC would be just a bit better to ensure that the auto plunge "fangs" that strike the ball are positioned correctly, but I'm guessing at minimum wage, this is just too much to ask for.
this is definitely something that I think that I'll voice at the fireside chat with Gary this year at the Chicago expo. if they are going to charge a premium for premiums and LE's, then the attention to detail needs to be a bit better. I'm sure Gary wouldn't be happy if he purchased a Lincoln or Cadillac and it was put together like some of the machines that I've recently seen.
rob, does your method work for any of the magnets or just the hammer magnet? (looking forward to seeing your method)
Quoted from knockerlover:
It's always bothered me that a decent remaster/re-recording has never been done of the earlier albums (except ride the lightning).
have you heard the shm-cd's released in japan? like the rush cd's before them, its amazing how much cleaner everything sounds (even stuff going back to the 1970s
the cliffy does make the shot harder, but does help protect the mystery hole. I've actually got both the mantis style and the cliffy in mine (the cliffy gets installed first and the mantis slides inside from underneath)
as MTI states, the iron man mylar is a perfect fit for the magnet area in front of sparky. I waxed my playfield prior to installing the mylar to make removal a bit easier.
you still have to run the wire through the cabinet to the 5v up by the front right of the cabinet. the ColorDMD uses a different pin out than what the stern LED display does.
it will only take an additional 2-3 minutes and they give you plenty of wire to neatly tie it up in those nylon cable management thingys
fyi for new owners:
I ended up going to jo-ann fabrics and picking up a sheet of the adhesive backed felt and putting 3 pcs on either side (stacked on top of one another where the lock down bar covers the side rails). this prevents the tops of the side rails from getting scratched as well as making the machine feel more solid during play.
I didn't see those typical brass adjustment screws on the lock down bar to tighten up the receiver, but you would still need a single piece on either side to prevent the rubbing from occurring
marco specialties has mylar circles. there is a 2 pk for iron man and the one with the notch for a post is a perfect fit for the magnet in front of sparky. I just wish they made one with a larger cut out for those of us with the LE's/premiums for the hammer magnet
Quoted from jeffsarcade:
So, are all of he new premium monster editions shipping with the matching speaker panel decal and no "M" logos on the speakers? I seem to have seen it both ways when people post their new pics.
the original wooden back box LEs and premiums shipped with rounded rectangular (square) speaker holes that had the "M" on them. the newer metal back box machines all have round speaker holes and no "M" logos
I recently noticed that my left flipper coil is buzzing really loud when holding the flipper button in. it just started happening today. does anyone have a solution or have they experienced that before as well? it seems to be intermittent, but when it occurs, it's really loud (and only the left flipper).
I lifted the playfield and checked the end of stroke (comparing it to the right flipper) and they both appear to be the same when the flippers are engaged
I loosened and re-tightened the 2 screws on the coil stop (snugging it up a bit more) and that seems to have corrected the loud buzzing when the left flipper is engaged. thanks!
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:
Hmmm I'll have to try that. I have the left flipper buzz also, right out of the box. Its weird, sometimes no buzz, sometimes very little, sometimes very loud buzz.
that's exactly what I had which started a day ago (sometimes loud, sometimes soft and sometimes hardly noticable). loosening the coil stop screws, pressing and holding the stop as hard as I could against the coil (to secure it against the top side stop), I just re-tightened the screws and the buzzing is now minimal (when it occurs), just like the right flipper.
you want to compress (and flatten out) that spring washer at top end of the coil as much as you can, prior to tightening the bottom coil stop.
Quoted from moto_cat:
This is off the Titan site
(I use 2.5 on the slings)
btw, whoever created that got two of the rubber rings incorrect. the ones that I've highlighted in green (see below) should actually be 5/16" ID rings, not 7/16" OD
the 7/17" OD will fit, however it's an extremely tight fit over the lower, larger section of the lane guide
you could always just purchase the kit that I created on titan (clear silicon w/ black flipper rubbers). I've also got one on there with all black silicon
advantages of the premium/LE over the pro machine
Quoted from tron1969:
Physical ball lock with eject from the scoop,
Play field rails
Original style lockdown bar
Spinners tied into game rules
The snake jaw has an extra shot to open the mouth
The hammer was my families favorite part and we never had an issue with it
Both games are fun but we went premium to get all the features
do the newer metal back box monster premiums still have the original receiver style lock down bar? the only reason that I'm questioning this is that the GB LEs use the latching system lock down bars, just like the pro version of the machine.
and while I like this feature as an end-user (I've loved it since williams used it in their joust), I can understand how it could be a bane for operators. the original lockdown bar had to be locked in place in order to install it, let alone close the coin door. however, with the latch system, there's nothing preventing an operator or other employee from correcting an issue, putting the glass back on the machine and simply inserting the lockdown bar into the slots and closing the coin door without actually latching the lockdown in place.
I love my monster premium. my first NIB pin
while I wouldn't say that I'm a huge metallica fan (never seen them in concert, I do like a lot of their music and borg and lyman blew the roof off of the factory with this one. great rule set, nice flow and fantastic layout and toys. I love the fact that apparently metallica (the band) was adamant about the machine having metal ramps (all models) [at least that I was I have been told]
both version of the game play well and unlike many of today's titles from stern, the pro doesn't feel like a stripped down version of the premium/LE, however the added features on the premium/LE are really nice and lend themselves as really nice upgrades (think of it more as leather seats vs. cloth in a car)
the spinners are integrated into game play and as was mentioned before, tying them to the tom drum sample (especially with a sub woofer) is just one more detail that makes you smile
personally, I don't think that the hammer blocks or obscures any of the shots to sparky (while it may do so for some of the shorter players out there, it's definitely no where near as obtrusive as that huge plastic abomination that is wolverine
yes, the rising/lowering cross tombstone doesn't affect game play, but again it's a nice touch and something that typically wows guests when they see it for the first time. plus, it operates so smoothly and ties in perfectly with the DMD animation
finally, I think the articulated snake jaw is just another really nice touch that does a much better job of letting you know when a shot is available vs. the LED on the pro. people have stated that they don't like the hammer because it "slows down play", but on the premium/LE, if the snake jaw is closed, your ball bounces off and opens it, allowing game play to continue seamlessly vs. the ball getting captured and then spit back out two seconds later on a pro
remember, no one's opinion is more important than your own. don't take anyone's word for it. take the time to play the different models that are available for a specific machine and purchase the one that you like the best
Quoted from Mudflaps:
If I remember to take out the balls before lifting the playfield, I feel like a hero for the rest of the day.
I love my RFM for this reason alone. williams/bally brilliantly added what they call a [passive] ball stop (a small section is hinged and swings over to cover the ball trough exit) when the playfield is lifted into service position. this eliminates the need for removing the balls first
Quoted from roddog:
Hey all. I think I fixed it! Could not have done it with you all. I'm very proud of myself. I am not good with this kinda work. Thanks again!
PS. Is there an easy way to prop the playfield in an upwards position? It feels like there should be a rod similar to when you pop the hood of a car open. I could not find one though. I just had my girlfriend hold the thing up while i tweaked. She is built like a mule!
pulling off the glass, you should be able to lift and pull the playfield towards you. it should be lifted high enough that the pegs (if you have a pro model) or the supports are high enough so that their bottoms are slightly above the lockdown bar receiver (the metal bar that has the stickers "install 4 balls" and "caution: high voltage".
you should be able to pull the playfield towards you a good 14-16". continue pulling it forward until you cannot any more. if you continue to raise the playfield to a vertical position, it should be far enough forward that you can actually lean it backwards a bit (the apron will rest against the front of the back box). most people put a towel or something on their back box to keep anything (apron and/or back box from getting scratched)
replacing the playfield back is almost a total reversal. many people really [hate] the "bump" in the tracks that the playfield sits on, however if you use this trick, you can easily move the playfield back into the cabinet far enough past the "bump" and then back into playing position.
a quick question for the group. will turning down the power to the eject coil for the snake mouth should eliminate all of the randomness that I'm currently experiencing? (premium machine)
I had to drop the entire mechanism and disassemble it to put in the mezel teeth. I made sure to "tweak" it facing as far right as it could be when I re-assembled it (because originally I was getting a lot of balls dumping directly between the flippers), but I'm still running into games where balls are ejected anywhere from: straight down the middle, anywhere on the left flipper, on the left sling to as far as into the left out lane after hopping over the left lane guide (trust me, that one blew my mind)
I love the fact that you can capture 2 balls during a multi-ball in its gullet for "snake ate your ball" if it's timed just right
Quoted from yzfguy:
You dropped the whole thing to install the teeth? Mine stayed on place during the operation, not even any anesthesia.
yeah, the upper jaw was tight and I couldn't wedge them in. additionally, I didn't have enough room to get an offset screwdriver in to loosen the screw in the upper metal plate, so everything had to come out.
on the plus side, the snake didn't seem to mind
Quoted from Dkjimbo:
Anyone ever have a weird timing/sequence issue with the hammer/coffin lock sequence where the ball is misaligned on the magnet and when the magnet drops the ball "falls" into the hole but by the time that happens the magnet is already on its way back up to the playfield level and the ball gets wedged between the magnet and the underside of the playfield?
thankfully, I've not had that happen [yet]. an extra set of optos located at the [top] of the subway could have prevented this (the ball would have to travel off of the magnet assembly and start down the trough to break the beam and signal that the magnet assembly raised and the hammer lifted
Quoted from PinballNewb:
Anyone ever get stuck balls in the left orbit if it goes up slowly? The obvious solution is to try to bend the inside wire in a bit, but am curious to see if others have / had this issue.
as in the metal ball guides are a bit tight and your ball becomes [sandwiched] between them? if the answer is "yes", then you need to loosen one or both metal guides and open up the space where the ball travels between them
we typically use a bubble level in two places as well. between the flippers (resting just above) and as far up the center of the playfield as each game will allow
the pinguy app works great (especially if you're doing the leveling by yourself since it can [call out] how far you're off
Quoted from MustangPaul:
You should send those pictures and description to Stern. Glad you finally got your Met.
it probably would have been well past the warranty period, but at least he had brian to help him out
I'm having fun myself still trying to fix the manual shooter rod, auto shooter and snake. the screw holes for the auto shooter were all jacked up and 7 out of 9 of them were stripped out. (toothpicks and wood glue to the rescue for those).
the 6 screw holes for the entire snake assembly and the captured ball stand-up target were not drilled in the proper place (causing the right side of the snake jaw to rub on the inside of the playfield cut-out) and now I need to plug them with 1/8" dia. wooden dowels and wood glue and then re-pilot and drill new holes approx. 1-2mm away
Quoted from MustangPaul:
That's horrible. I hope you contacted Stern about all that.
there's not much that I could have done about considering that I had the machine for over a year before I managed to clear out enough space to unbox and set it up.
plain and simple, their auto shooter setup is pretty bad and causes a lot of undue torque on the assembly itself due to the fact that it is offset, but that has nothing to do with how mine was put together. everything worked pretty well out of the box, but after 200-300 plays, it becomes apparent that things just aren't working the way that they should.
looking at the how the snake was mounted (and the captured ball target, mounted so that it was actually screwed down on top of the snake mechanism is just pure laziness, poor judgement and no supervision to verify assembly of these complicated machines. it shows that their workers don't really care. sure, they're all smiles when you take a tour of stern's building, but my guess is that most of those positions pay minimum wage.
I'm working on getting a nos playfield. I'll have ron kruzman clear it and then I'll eventually swap it and either sell or hang the original on the wall.
I liken how my machine was put together just like an automobile being built on a friday
the good part is that I'm not one to worry about getting my hands "dirty" and go in and fix it myself. probably saves me a lot in the long run and adds another skill to my repertoire
a mylar circle around the sparky magnet (the one with the notch cut into it from the iron man set that marco's sells fits perfectly)
making sure that the magnet is leveled and set to the proper height and having the sparky leg, airball protector on your routed game will do wonders at keeping it up and running and protected
[currently sold out]
yes and no. if you are ordering one of the newer chroma board colordmd's, you have one choice and one choice only; the firmware for 1.70
I think that it will only mess up a few call-outs if you are running an older firmware, but for the most part should run without a hitch
if you have an older colordmd display kit (the sigma kits) you can download an older version of the colordmd firmware for metallica by copying and changing the download link to one of the following:
http://colordmd.com/download.php?rom=MET_3_4 <- this is the latest, which supports v1.70
http://colordmd.com/download.php?rom=MET_3_3 <- this is a slightly older version that supports v1.64
Quoted from delt31:
guys - how do you make the lockdown bar tighter? Old machines there were two screws you could adjust. What about with the stern ones like this game?
I stacked three pcs. of thin self-adhesive felt on the underside of both ends of my lockdown bar when I opened up my NIB machine to a) tighten down the lockbar and b) keep the lockdown bar from scratching up the ends of the side rails (I put new side rails with the metallica cut-outs on them on my machine and didn't want them getting all scraped up
jo-ann fabrics sells a 9"x12" sheet of the stuff for $1.99 and I probably only used a 9" x 3/4" strip of the entire sheet (6 pcs. of 1-1/2" x 3/4")
Quoted from LOTR_breath:
No adjustment that I know of. Make sure the latches are all the way up over the hooks. I've never experienced a loose lockdown bar with the new style latches.
I think that he's talking about an older wooden back-box or a premium/LE machine. not one of the newer ones with the luggage type lock-down clips
can anyone direct me to what I should be looking at for this issue? the G.I. and the spider inserts seem to be working intermittently. some times when I power on my game everything is working, other times it's really dark because rows 1+2 of the lamp matrix do not appear to be lighting up at all.
all of the fuses are good (if one wasn't, I wouldn't get any G.I. intermittently), and the connectors to the back box boards seem good and secure.
I've checked all of the standard molex and z-connectors and do not seem to see anything that was apparent, but everything is working again (for now).
has anyone else with a MET experienced this, and if so, what was the culprit?
I think that it might have been a loose connection in that ethernet cable going into one of the mini boards under the playfield since everything appears to be working a-ok again.
btw, does anyone know where in the menus you can test the GI lighting and the spider inserts? I thought that the spider inserts may have been in the flasher section, but that doesn't appear to be the case
what color/board did you use for the 'F', 'U' and 'E'? those look nice
can you provide a link?
Quoted from northvibe:
Here are mine with large plastic protectors
You can see the colored VS stock the nylons isn't engaging.
you can replace those standard height ESNA lock nuts with the thinner (jam nuts) that places like scot @ pinrepair.com sells
http://pinrestore.com/Hardware.html (about 1/2 down the page)
Quoted from str8cash:
How many 2x scoring opportunities are there?
Quoted from ATLpb:
i'm aware of 2
and they do stack for 4x (that's how you get "jack-Fing pot" on sparky for instance)
1) FUEL piston target when lit (the spider arrow) gives 2x
2) during any multi-ball, hit the four pick targets (can carry lit targets into the mode) then hit into snakes mouth. snake must eat ball. he holds it on prem/le and spits it back out on pro
ramp/orbit combos don't multiply but they do amplify/increment during live combos.
I believe that there is one more, maybe?
when you [skill shot] plunge the start of a new ball (by holding down the left flipper button) and roll through either of the top [lit] lanes without hitting anything else prior, the left lane gives 'x2' and the right lane 'x4'. you just have to make sure that the lane is lit before the ball passes over the rollover switch (toggle with the right flipper button
this might not be a table multiplier and just a single shot multiplier, but it can be pretty lucrative. with sequential, successful skill shots (right roll over for 'x4'), I've gotten 1,000,000, 1,800,000 and 2,700,000 points to start the ball (yep, I have managed to 'x4' skill shot all 3 balls in a single game, not that my end score showed anything better
Quoted from Rickwh:
Problem is that the premium probably holds 1 ball and the jaw comes up right?
On pro the lower jaw doesnt move so you can get two balls stuck in the snake. Which can time out the 2x or even cause a ball search. Worse yet is that 2 balls shooting out of snake can double drano. Def not easy to control.
I own a premium and I've gotten 2 balls down the snake's gullet (and held) multiple times. it's a bit easier when coffin multi-ball is running since you've got all 4 balls smashing around at high speeds
which begs the question, will they ever fix that call-out? james says "lock 4 balls to start coffin multi-ball!", when in fact its only 3 balls that you need to lock. when you lock the 3rd ball, the multi-ball mode starts
Quoted from Cobray:
So I have been checking out getting a painted Sparky, and found out that the set price for Dirty Donny painted Sparky's are $500!! That seems like a crazy price! I don't think that name alone makes this worth it. Sure would be cool to have a DD Sparky, but not for $500.
Anyone else do a good job on these for a better price for a guy like me "on a budget"?
it's a bit pricey, but given that a regular one is $225 from marco's and $200 from pinball life, it's not too bad of a mark-up to get someone like donny to custom paint your sparky . if I recall, his price included shipping as well
one more thing to point out is that donny is supplying you with a brand new, custom painted sparky for the $500. you don't have to send him yours, so in the end you've got a back-up
if you ordered the kit that I put together for their database (transparent w/ black flipper rubber), I revised it to the 2.5" rings for the slings
Quoted from Lemank:
And now my flippers are making a feedback noise where I didn't price that before either. Any ideas?
I've had this issue too. the [buzz] is caused by the flipper coil moving. what I did to eliminate the issue on my machine was to take out the screws on the coil stops and the leading brackets (highlighted in green), add some lock-tite 242 (blue) to the threads and then re-assemble everything. you'll want to make sure that their is no "slop" between the coil stop, coil and the leading bracket. there is a small, metal spring washer at the top end of the coil (between the coil and that bracket, shown highlighted in purple). if there is any slack, this will vibrate and cause the [buzzing]
Quoted from Lemank:
I checked the switch. I tightened everything up I could get a screw driver too. I still have the problem. It kicks out sometimes but not all the time. It also won't register when I get an extra ball either. Could it be a bad switch?
the wire on these switches can be pushed to one side or the other without depressing the switch. check to see if there is any side-to-side movement that would allow the ball to rest without triggering the switch itself.
I've gone in with a pair of small needle nosed pliers and slightly crimped the "ears" on either side of the switch housing to eliminate/reduce this side-to-side movement so that the ball has to depress and actuate the switch
make sure that you're running a matched version of the game's software and the colordmd's firmware (eg. 1.70 and 1.70
there have been small changes (eg. fixes) to the way that colordmd colors the game and if the versions don't match, then it could potentially cause some weird artifacting like you've noticed
Quoted from roddog:
Reading about firmware 1.70 reminded me that I should update my Metallica code. I tried doing this but the machine does not seem to recognize that there is a USB stick inserted. The screen reads "INSERT USB MEMORY STICK". I re-formatted the stick to FAT-32 but still nothing. Has anybody ran into this? Any ideas?
did you flip switch no. 8 on the cpu / sound pc board?
once you do that, the machine should recognize any flash drive in the usb port and menu instructions will step you through the process
if you need more help, JimBoSS made a youtube video on the steps to update the firmware in your machine:
a quick question to everyone that's recently purchased a metallica (both pro and premium)
are your wire form ball guides (the ones staked on the play field) chromed or powder coated?
the reason I'm asking is that I've got an older wood backbox monster premium and the originals were that matte gray but after only 350+ plays there are a ton of chipped areas on them
thanks to everyone that replied on the wire ball guides
my next problem is with the snake kick out on my premium, but I believe that I've finally figured out this issue
for those of you that have had to completely dismantle the snake assembly to insert the teeth from mezelmods.com, and are now experiencing ejected balls that seemingly kick out where ever they damn well want to instead of to the left flipper, this is what I've found:
not only is it a rather complicated assembly, it's a pain in the @ss to re-assemble and position the parts correctly. incorrect assembly can be the cause of the balls being ejected in a somewhat random fashion (or sdtm) because the plunger assy [part no. 515-7309-00] is not striking the ball dead-center when the coil is fired
the 2 longer metal screws that join and line up the 2 assemblies together (as indicated with the green highlighted areas). those plates need to line-up *perfectly* before you tighten all six screws; the 2 metal screws joining the assemblies as well as the 4 wood screws that mount both assemblies to the playfield (indicated by the purple areas)
if the 2 assemblies are not lined up correctly, the nylon end of the plunger assembly will not strike the center of the ball as it sits in the snake's mouth, resting in the small, circular cut-out of the snake upper jaw weldment [part no. 515-9669-00] (as shown highlighted in blue in the above [inset] image)
it's ashamed that stern did not create these parts to automatically line up when they are assembled (either in the form of "ears" on the snake upper jaw weldment or the snake coil bracket assy [part no. 515-9671-00] or some sort of stiff gasket to line them up, because it's very difficult to see where the top of the plunger assembly is sitting in relationship to that circular cut-off of the weldment where the ball rests
I'm going to purchase an endoscope from amazon.com (like one in the link below) that has a 45° mirror to correctly align the assemblies and hopefully correct my issue
since the endoscope allows you to take photos and video, I'll try and take some of both and post here once I receive it on thursday (2017.jan.05)
I wish that I had done a little more research when I first opened my MET monster premium and installed the teeth
on mine, there wasn't any gap whatsoever that I could create between the upper snake jaw weldment and the molded head to fit the 3D printed teeth. I knew about the screw in the back of the head, but didn't have an offset screwdriver (at the time) to loosen it or the one inside on the roof of the snake's mouth) so I did the next best thing (which proved to be a huge pain in the @ss
everything was working perfectly for me for about 300 games, but I must have not tightened everything securely because it slowly started spitting the balls out in a more random fashion. it wasn't until this weekend, when I finally had time to tear it all down again that I finally figured it out
for those adding tim's 3D printed teeth, a set of these comes in handy:
I could have simply disassembled the molded snake head and inserted the teeth. although I will say that even with them, re-assembly is a pain in the @ss if you remove the screws altogether (so try to just loosen them and not remove them completely.
if you do, the 2 nylon spacers may fall out and getting them to stay in place will be enough to drive you bonkers. add on top of that, that not having a lot of space to rotate the screwdriver, it will seem to take an eternity to re-tighten everything back up
check to see if the data cable is being pinched near the top of the playfield underside or if it's being bound up by the zip ties. phoebe's was getting [chewed up] by the up-down post on the orbit and mine was just a bit too taunt going into the pc board near the center of the playfield.
phoebe had to request a new data cable. my issue was that I was losing all of the GI and the spider inserts, which was easily rectified by pulling some of the extra slack in the cable towards the connector so that it wasn't getting pulled on when the playfield was lifted/lowered
as promised, here's a photo of the inside of the snake jaw using an endoscope showing just how far the vuk plunger assy was off-center (and the cause of all my issues)
this was mainly caused by improper assembly when the machine was built. I ended up removing the entire snake assy (again), and then carefully re-positioning both weldments to re-center the plunger
I ended up having to leave out one screw out completely to get the plunger centered as the factory drilled hole was off by more than 1.5mm. this small amount was enough shift the position of the lower weldment and the vuk plunger as seen in the image above
Quoted from delt31:
Where exactly is the data cable everyone is speaking of?
it's the one that looks like an eithernet cable (gray insulated cable with a 6-pin modular phone type connector on either end) that runs from the [right side] of the cpu board down into the cabinet (zipped tied with the bundles running along the right side of the underside of the cabinet) to one of the opto boards located near the center of the playfield
I don't have access to my machine right now to take a photo
I like the way you tied it into the coffin flasher, but that little skeleton is creepy looking
Quoted from delt31:
so my right flipper works perfectly fine - super strong but if I hold the button in, I can hear a sound which must be the EOS being used (or something to keep the flipper powered). Not so much on my left. Normal?
Quoted from jawjaw:
Like a hum? That's normal. I remember someone posting how to fix it, though. I think it's a vibration issue fixed by securing the coil better - or something like that.
Quoted from dnapac:
Got a question. I bought my Met Pro in August 2016. It has about 2500 plays...yes I love to play it. I've noticed some damage in the shooter lane from the ball being kicked out. Not on the rail side, but the opposite side in the lane itself. Can I do anything about this. I've never seen a cliffhanger/etc. for this area.
and other have been laying down mylar over this area as well. both will do the job
Quoted from KornFreak28:
How about the cliffy aroud the snake and captive ball? Is that one really "necessary"? Who sells it?
I've got one extra if anyone needs one. I messed up my original when I had to drop the entire snake mechanism to add the teeth and managed to get a couple of spares from stern
no, it's a single frame that I modified for another pinsider that was running smartdmd. although, if you're not using a color dmd display, I would be happy to send you the macro to adjust frame no's 0x104D and 0x104E using the pinball browser software
if you inject the macro, save your .bin and reflash your game, you can replace the blackened screen with the one pictured here
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
Very cool! I'm not running SmartDMD so I can't use that but thank you for sharing.
yes, you can!
all you need to do is the following:
- download the pinball browser software from here: [ http://tiny.cc/pinballbrowser ]
- register the software (paypal olivier $10 for a license)
- download the 1.70 rom from the sternpinball.com website
- pm me with your email address for the macro and smartdmd.txt file (which contains the palette information)
- launch the pinball browser software, and then load in the metallica 1.70 .bin rom file
- from the 'smartdmd' button, click the 'configure your smartdmd device' button, navigate to where the smartdmd.txt file is located and select it (this is one of the files that I emailed you)
- from the 'macros' button, click the 'load' button [folder icon], and select the macro (.pbm) (this is the other file that I emailed you)
- click the 'run' button
- click the 'save as' button [disc icon w/ pencil] to save the new .bin file
- copy the .bin file to a usb drive
- re-flash your machine with the new .bin file
Quoted from pcprogrammer:
Will this work in a met pro...
yes, it will work in just about any pinball machines that have magnetics to keep the balls from "sticking" in the trough
Quoted from KornFreak28:
What about the loud hummm noise I get from the right flipper? That is sooo odd! The left also gives the hummm sound but it's a lot less than the right flipper...
Quoted from delt31:
Let me know exactly what you guys end up tweaking on the coil stop b/c mine does this too and it's not a big deal but why not remove the sound. Rather not mess anything up though and don't want to tinker around if there is a direct solution someone already found. Mine are on tight too def not lose by the coil stop (which seems like a really big piece of metal).
yep, that's what I did. just lift the playfield into service position, and remove the bolts holding the coil stop. put some locktite on them and re-assemble (making sure to pinch the coil, spring washer and coil stop as tight together as possible while re-tightening up the bolts that secure the coil stop)
let the machine sit for at least 4 hours for the locktite to set and you should be good to go
Quoted from KornFreak28:
Anybody have a clue how to make the playfield sit on the lockdown receiver?
I already moved the cables around back there and nothing. So disappointed with the quality of this machine. Seems like it was assembled in China or something...
there are a set of small metal clips screwed into the sides of the cabinet that help align the playfield (left-to-right) when you lower it back down to help keep the playfield centered, but that's not your problem
what you can do is this:
once you've lowered the playfield, attempt the following to correct your problem:
- loosen the playfield hanger just enough (see image below) (only do one at a time) so that it's loose enough that you can adjust its position and the tab fits into the receiver. re-tighten the bolts and repeat for the other hanger
it's possible that cabinet or the playfield was "tweaked" enough during shipping that those hangers don't line up when the playfield is returned to playing position. (on mine, they've always been close, but still require a bit of a [push] with my fingers to align them just a bit and drop into the receiver slots
if you don't have enough "wiggle" room, I would figure out just how much the hanger needs to be moved (forward or back) on each side, then remove them (one at a time), adjust the position of the tab with a hammer tap or two, replace, re-tighten and repeat for the 2nd one
sparky makes a very valid point
you almost have to have the playfield completely lowered and then push those 2 harness bundles back a bit with the playfield backboard before lowering it all the way and locking the hanger tabs in place into the top of the receiver.
30 years of manufacturing pinball machines and stern still doesn't seem to have ironed out all of the kinks in their products. there so many tiny design changes could still be made resulting in a much better product (with that @#$% "hump" being no. 1 on the list)
great video. I didn't realize that stern made one. however, they need to update it seeing as how that they've gotten rid of the awesome "coffin" backbox lock and other things that have changed
- not too much in the backbox anymore for spike games
- luggage clips for the lockdown bar for pro models to remove the lockdown bar vs. the receiver and spring loaded yellow handle
- placement of power switch for spike games
- interlock switch (no longer present on spike games?)
there's no reason to modify the receiver. you want the playfield to fit tightly in place
plain and simple, the playfield was locked in place upon arrival, so there's no reason why it can't go back to a locked position. a simple adjustment of the playfield (either forward or backwards) and a bit of downward force might be required, but it will go back into the slots
who did you purchase this from? (which distributor?
I would get on the phone with them (facetime if you can) and attempt to get it straightened out asap
Quoted from mrgregb123:
Hey guys -
If anyone is looking for some Cliffys for Met, I am offering up the Mystery Hole protector, Snake protector, and the two inlane protectors for $25 shipped priority mail. They are used but good condition. I bought my Met Pro with them on but re-cleared the playfield professionally and don't see a need for them anymore w/home use. PM me.
you do realize that the metal protector in front of the snake mouth is not a cliffy, but rather a factory provided protector that was installed during manufacture of the machine by stern, correct?
Quoted from KornFreak28:
Been playing the game and I love it. However, I must say I'm a bit confused as to what the main objective or mission is other than starting MB's?
I managed to get to a section that let's you pick between 4 modes where you must complete some shots before the song is finished. Is this the main objective? I don't even know how I got there to be honest.
What is CIU and how is it achieved? What is the main objective of the game? Thanks!!!!
CIU is 'crank it up' mode (which you've already identified that you've been able to get to (it's accessed by shooting the ball into the mystery scoop when the right (blue) LED is lit. if you trap a ball and then cycle through the display counters with the other flipper (or do so between balls), the display will indicate how many hits to the snake, grave yard drop targets, coffin and electric chair are needed to access CIU.
completing all four CIU modes in a single game will allow you to access the 'end of the line' for your 5th CIU mode
there's no reason not to wax it right out of the box. I would wax it every 100 or 200 plays afterwards if you want to keep the playfield nice and clean and fast. the thin coat of wax will prevent any dirt or other contaminants from being ground into the clear
personally, I like to go for the right roll over lane at the top for the '4X' (and start with a 1,000,000 bonus) on the plunge
Quoted from Aurich:
Buy that shit now, I didn't know they were even still being stocked, for a while you couldn't even get them. Never know when they'll go unavailable again!
pinball life has had sparky's in stock for the past 2 years. last year at the expo explosion, there were at least 3 or 5 sitting on the shelves
Quoted from embryon:
Wonder if you guys could help me please. Have a premium and since NIB the snake has never directed the ball to the left flipper. It may go to the left sling, the left inlane, the left outlane, even hit the fuel target today. Is there a way to adjust this? I looked underneath and loosened 2 hex screws and 2 phillips head screws but could not move the assembly. Am I undoing the wrong screws? I also noticed the armature rod is not central to the holes where the ball would sit; more towards the front. It doesn't hit anywhere but is very much off centre.
I'm going to do the tongue, fang and snake body mod but was hoping to solve this prior to attempting these.
Am really stuck on this one guys and may need some finer details to what I have read.
let me kindly direct you to these posts seeing as I had the exact same problem
Quoted from northvibe:
HA! so that is what the buzzing is from!? Great tips guys! Now I kind of want one of mine to buzz so I can fix it
there is a spring washer that vibrates if the coil stops do not hold the coil in place securely. see an earlier post that I made on this
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:
And the snake seems to spit and spin the ball, it's not consistently hitting the left flipper, often goes off towards the left in/out lanes! could've done something while I was working down there, but equally interested if anyone else has seen this and if so how it got resolved.
here's the actual posts from when I had this issue (and my resolution
Quoted from LOTR_breath:
If you take the flipper mount plate completely off, I would think there should be enough threads sticking through the back side to just grab it with pliers and turn it out the back.
or worse case scenario, use an "easy out" tool to tap into the remainder of the screw and remove it
Quoted from JB-7X:
Ive had my Monsters Premium for about a week now and have indeed been playing the hell out of it and loving every second.
Seeing a problem developing with the sheet metal guard below the snakes mouth. It's starting to buckle. Anyone know where I could find a new piece for this and / or a walk through of how to change it out?
I've been working my way through the hundreds of pages of this thread and haven't found any talk of this yet.
call up the stern parts department and see if chas or patrick will send you out a new one. be warned, you'll need to disassemble a good portion of the hammer and the block to remove the old one
when you install the new one, be careful to hold the piece in place when you tighten up the nuts on the underside of the playfield that hold the protector in place (otherwise, you'll cause it to twist and buckle just like your picture.
and in the words of bryan kelly, "don't ask me how I know this". I said "don't ask!"
Quoted from parsonsaj:
Is it possible to get a replacement label on the apron for Metallica Pro that DOESN'T have the message on it about "if you play this machine you might have a seizure"? It would look so much better with a label similar to the one on the left side of the apron that lacks this vitally important message...
yes, if you can find someone that has them
for many of the past stern launch parties, they sent out goodie boxes filled with a random assortment of flyers, stickers and playfield plastics. I remember seeing the apron stickers for metallica in the mix (w/o the seizure warnings)
additionally, it wouldn't hurt to reach out to stern and see if you could get one. you may not be successful, but it never hurts to try
things that I added to mine (straight out of the box), were as follows:
- snake teeth (mezel mods)
- mystery hole light (mezel mods)
- cliffy protectors for the inlane rollovers (underneath the drop zone from the wireform ramps)
- cliffy and mantis protectors for the mystery scoop
- replaced the newton block with a newton ball assy
- changed out the pro type side rails and hinges with some kick-ass laser cut ones (with the metallica logo and 'M' [for the hinge])
- added a polk audio sub woofer
- added the increased length playfield plastic in front of sparky's legs/feet to eliminate air balls
- added the 5pc. playfield protector set
- added mylar rings around the sparky and hammer magnets
- changed the rubber to titan silicon rubber (flippers and all rings)
- changed the up/down post behind sparky to the metal one
I've had this exact same problem (along with many other MET owners)
if your machine starts to exhibit this issue, definitely do yourself a favor and get a new cable. based on the way that it was run underneath the playfield, it can get pinched in a few locations (including near the up/down post at the top of the playfield
if it's not a break in the cable, as WJxxxx has stated, it could possibly be a bad terminated end
Quoted from damageinc55:
I've tweaked my design for the mod on the cross insert for Premium/LE. Installation requires loosening of the subway, but I've tweaked it so you shouldn't have to remove it completely.
So for those that are bothered by the excess light surrounding the Crosses, here's your mod (https://goo.gl/3F7d31). Orders placed today should go out tomorrow, otherwise, the rest will go Monday.
his new version is incredibly well done. I've worked with damageinc55 to help him perfect his design for the premium/LE machines and he's nailed it