(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

7 years ago

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#5614 5 years ago

I'm very seriously considering buying a NIB MET pro. Is there any disadvantage to the new ones that Stern is currently pumping out vs. the older ones? Also, can anyone remember what MET pros originally sold for? I'm curious to know how much Stern has jacked up the price on the new run.

#5618 5 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You would be surprised at the "little things" that can be overlooked at the factory. That is why an owner of a NIB machine needs to check EVERYTHING after unboxing and BEFORE power up.
I'm my case for example 2 out 4 leg bolt cabinet plates were stripped the to improper installation of leg bolts at the factory.
I had to install new ones to get the legs on properly among other things. Ni reported my findings to my distributor to do their job.
1000s of parts even with good QC is difficult at best. Stern remains suspect.

I've had all sorts of issues with games right out of the box. Loose power cables, misaligned ball guides, bad solder joints, etc ... Unfortunately, it goes with the territory.

#5626 5 years ago
Quoted from Pickle:

Finally gonna change up songs in Metallica. Any suggestions/tips for what songs pretty much have to stay? Plan to add Breadfan and undecided on what else.......just learning how to do it and changed some stuff on Kiss last night and want to change it up on Metallica now.

When I pick up my MET, I plan on changing ALL the songs. I love the pin, but I'm not a fan of Metallica at all.

#5628 5 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I ordered one to try out, but if it's as you say we'd be better off spending a bit more and get one sub for each pin.

You can hook up two pins to a sub without any modifications or extra equipment. One goes into the left channel, and the other into the right channel. I currently have ST, TWD, Tron and X-Men all hooked up to two Polk PSW10s.

#5689 5 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

In case anyone was wondering what the Dirty Donny blacklight painted Sparky looks like with the UV/blacklight flashers installed... It is much darker than the bright white flashers but the effect is kinda cool and his brains really GLOW.

That looks awesome!

2 weeks later
#5904 5 years ago

Just ordered a NIB pro today. Looking forward to finally joining the club!

#5914 5 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Congrats!! Brian. I'm sure you will really like it.

Thanks! I've wanted one for years, and I'm really excited for it. I haven't bought a NIB game since TWDLE back in 2014.

Quoted from gatordad:

Just busted out a hell of a game on ac/dc tonight, in-between playing a few on my Metallica
I own 3 out of 12 song high scores now.
Slowly but surely I'll knock you out of those other spots.

LOL! I'm glad the game went to a good home where it is appreciated. What was my GC score again? Did I crack a billion? AC/DC is such an awesome game, and I'll probably get one back again at some point in the future. I still think nailing a huge song jackpot with 3x playfield running is the single most exciting thing you can do in all of pinball.

#5915 5 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Got this from Leon (Arcade)

That will definitely come in handy. I plan on swapping out every song with something different.

#5921 5 years ago
Quoted from rolandthoms:

Do you know how to do this? Are there instructions somewhere? I think I saw them here on the forum a while back

I played around with Pinball Browser a bit, but I've never actually used it swap out sounds or music. I'm looking forward to learning how to use all the features.

#5930 5 years ago

3D printing is an amazing technology. I can only imagine where it will be 10 years from now.

1 week later
#6039 5 years ago
Quoted from centerflank:

What's on your TWD? All the leg spacers are plastic now.

Yep. They switched to plastic a while back. I guess it saves them 30 cents a game ...

1 week later
#6114 5 years ago

My pro should be ready sometime in March, so I'm ready to start assembling mods for it. Here's what I'm thinking ...

Cliffy protectors
Snake fangs and tongue decal
Coffin decal
Plastic protectors (unsure of which ones to get)
Speaker lights with acrylic inserts
Lighted flipper buttons
Button-guard side rails
Playfield support brackets
Sparky EL wire mod
Target splints
Mirror blades
Total Lightshow mod
Backbox light kit (who makes the best one?)
Color DMD
Titan competiton silicone rings

Is there anything important that I'm missing? I can't believe how quickly the mods add up on this game!

#6117 5 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

You need a sub for sure, and perhaps a shaker.

I purchased a shaker with the machine, so I'm all set there. I also have a spare powered sub ready to go. It's probably too nice of a sub for this application, but I'm not using it for anything at the moment.

#6120 5 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

My first 2 purchases for it! I'm getting it in March as well!

Are you picking up yours from the factory as well?

#6127 5 years ago

Which plastic protectors do you guys think look best, and who sells them? I like the neon green ones, but I'm not a fan of the Pinbits ones that span the inlane. Also, who makes the best backbox light kit?

#6128 5 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

And being able to complete Fade to Black mode as easy as the LE owners can is awesome.
I never completed that mode once until I installed my spinners.

Can you elaborate on this. I'm not very familiar with the rules.

#6133 5 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Maybe add an adapter for the 12v DC power source, so you have an easy way to connect power to the multiple mods.

Are you referring to a splitter like the FTS-8?



#6138 5 years ago
Quoted from tp:

What size polyurethane rings on slings? I bought original size 2 id and seem way to small. My slings engage about 1/10 as much as they use to and I'm afraid it's putting to much pressure on the posts. 2 1/2 id or maybe even bigger?

When using polyurethane or silicone rings instead of rubber, the same sizes should still work. 2" is definitely the correct size for MET slings. Have you tried adjusting the switch gaps?

#6146 5 years ago
Quoted from tp:

Nothing to do with the switch gap, as the ball is not strong enough to push the tight 2 id polyurethane into the switch. It only activates on about 1 of 10 hits now. Put any other 2 id ring in and ball is getting zapped all over the place.

I've never used polyurethane rings, only the Titan silicone ones. Is it possible that you got a defective batch that is slightly too small? Can they be stretched out a bit?

#6153 5 years ago
Quoted from tp:

Actually I'm not sure what they are, it's the brand cointaker sells. Stretching not gonna work on these imo.

Cointaker sells Super Bands, which are polyurethane. I've never used their rings, but I really like their mini post rubbers. I have the clear ones on Star Trek, and the game plays super fast with them!

I've grown to love Titan's silicone rings. I've done three complete games with them, and they look and play great.

#6155 5 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I just replaced the top post with the metal one. Holy cow, what a difference. Not a single ball has come back down the left side. I didn't realize how annoying it was until the fix, so much better!

Can you please elaborate on this. What post are you talking about, and what part should I replace it with?

#6159 5 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

It s the post that pops up in the center of the loop at the back of the playfield. It is plastic at the end on stock game and about 75% of my shots up the left orbit would bounce back down the left, rather than enter the pops and let you collect a rollover lamp. You replace it with metal, no more issue. two minute fix. Pinball life part number A-17986

Quoted from flynnibus:

They are referring to the pop up post which stops the ball from going around the orbit. The design is on some shots for the post to come up and force the ball to stop and drop into the pops. But frequently on many games, the ball will bounced back to the orbit and come out the left orbit instead of going into the pops. The mod is to replace the plastic post with a metal post. It's listed somewhere back in the thread which post people are using.

Thanks, guys! I guess I'll add that part to my ever expanding list.

#6173 5 years ago
Quoted from centerflank:

Disable the pop up post, game plays so much faster.

What is the general con consensus on this? Do most people disable it? Wouldn't it make it so that the ball rarely winds up in the pops?

#6176 5 years ago

Am I correct in assuming that the finish on these siderails will perfectly match the finish on the existing hinges and lockdown bar?


#6178 5 years ago
Quoted from baloo70:

Yes-they are a perfect match. I just installed my last weekend.

Awesome. Thanks!

#6180 5 years ago

I guess is should play the game both ways for a while before I order the replacement post. No point in spending the money if I'm just going to disable the post anyway.

#6188 5 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

I have tried this in my IM. I didn't enjoy that the ball rarely made it into the pops. I have ordered metal replacement posts for both MET and IM.

I disabled it on my IM. I hated the fact that the skill shot required zero skill. I also have it disabled on my Tron.

#6204 5 years ago
Quoted from centerflank:

The pops are just fluff points ...

Doesn't everyone deserve a good "fluffing" now and then?

2 weeks later
#6356 4 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Got word this morning that my Metallica Pro is ready for shipment. Super excited.

Is it coming directly from Stern? If so, that's great news. It means the line is moving again. I'm waiting for a MET pro myself.

#6369 4 years ago

I really struggled when it came to deciding between the pro and the premium. I've always been a premium/LE buyer in the past, but this is the one game where I decided to go with the pro instead. Ultimately, it came down to two things ... A) I'm not a huge fan of the hammer, and B) I'd rather save the money and apply it towards mods. If the total lightshow mod didn't exist, I probably would have gone with the premium. Like others have already said, you really can't go wrong with either one. Stern did a great job choosing which features to omit on the pro. As a result, the pro doesn't feel neutered in any meaningful way, while the premium/LE offers some compelling features for the extra money.

#6397 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Don't turn off the power with the coin door open.
Make sure the 50v line is engaged before shutting off the power.

Has this issue been addressed in the newer runs?

#6431 4 years ago
Quoted from Humph:

I was always partial to the seductive, country girl Mary Ann ... and she had a nice pair of ... legs.

The politically correct term is "gams" ...

1 week later
#6503 4 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

New to the club and working on setting up my woodhead pro. for those that converted to LED did you go with the LED OCD board or just non ghosting bulbs? dont know much about the OCD board or if it would be worth it.

I can't say enough good things about the LED OCD board. It's an awesome product, and I highly recommend it. My only caveat would be that I'm not sure whether or not it's compatible with the Total Lightshow mod. If you were considering adding the TL mod, you should check first to see if the two will play nicely together.

1 week later
#6629 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Another thought
Does the post ever stay down to shoot a smooth left orbit ?

You can disable the post in the settings, and you will always have a full orbit shot. Many people do this. The problem is that it fundamentally changes the way the game plays. The post is there for a reason. Without it, you will see a lot less pop bumper action.

#6634 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Ok thanks guys,
Now help me out , pro or premium ?
All opinions welcome , seriously help me out .

You can't go wrong with either one. I usually go with the premium, but in the case of MET, I opted for the pro. Unlike some pros, MET pro doesn't feel like you are playing a drastically stripped down version of the game. It's missing a few cool features, but the main gameplay is essentially the same. Because of this, I figured I'd rather save the money and apply some of it towards mods.

1 week later
#6835 4 years ago

I used to add Pinball Pro and Flipper Fidelity kits to my games, but I've been going strictly with external powered subs for a while now. I'm in no way knocking the upgraded speakers, but I find the external sub to be the most cost effective solution for good sound. Just buy one sub for every two games, hook them up to the cabinet speaker with alligator clips, and you're good to go.

1 week later
#6947 4 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

Just got the call, picking up my MET Pro this afternoon!!!

Nice! Hopefully, mine won't be far behind ....

1 month later
#7267 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

GB is about as close as we have come to something at least a little bit more creative in terms of shot design ...

You can't blame Stern for sticking with a tried and true formula. Gomez tried to do something different with Avengers, and the game wasn't well received at all. The same can be said for Mustang and WWE.

2 weeks later
#7377 4 years ago

I had to wait over four months for my game to be built, but I finally joined the club yesterday ...


#7379 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Nice line-up.... that Shadow topper, which car is it?


I didn't buy the topper. It came with the game. I believe it is this one ...

ebay.com link: 1994 Rare Kenner The Shadow Thunder Cab Vehicle Toy NIB SEALED

#7393 4 years ago

What's the deal with Color DMDs and the newer style backboxes? Do they sit further back? Does it look weird? I'm thinking about moving one of my Color DMDs to my MET LED.

#7406 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Need extra hardware spacer for the newback box but looks great.

Thanks! I just checked their website, and it appears that I may need a new mounting bracket as well ...


The Color DMD will most likely be coming out of my WPT, which I assume has the older incompatible bracket.

#7408 4 years ago
Quoted from smassa:

Be sure you order a clear DMD window also. The newer stern ones come with red Windows. All you need are the spacers and the clear dmd plastic and you are set.

So I don't need this also?


At what point did they change to the newer style bracket that supports the standoffs? I think I bought mine about a year ago. As for the clear DMD plastic, I'm pretty sure I have one or two lying around from when I swapped out blue ones in my Avatar and Tron years ago. I assume these older ones will fit in the newer games?

#7411 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

If you're changing songs on the Pro in Pinball Browser, the request numbers for the songs have changed. New request numbers for MTL17.bin (Pro):
487 Battery
602 Blackened
713 Creeping Death
784 Enter Sandman
856 Fade to Black
911 For Whom the Bell Tolls
950 Fuel
1009 Master of Puppets
1077 One
1210 Ride the Lightning
1292 Sad But True
1362 Seek and Destroy
1440 End of the Line
1505 Unforgiven

Thanks, Sparky! I plan on changing out all the songs in the near future. This will really help.

#7413 4 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

What would you be changing them to?

You don't want to know ... All I can say is that none of the songs will be Metallica (ducks for cover).

#7432 4 years ago

For those of you with a pro, can you backhand the snake from the right flipper? I tried a bunch of times last night, but I can't seem to hit that shot. I can backhand the graveyard targets no problem.

#7434 4 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

I can. Not every time, but fairly consistent. It kind of bounces off of the captive ball and then into the snake.

I was going for the direct shot. Next time I'll try ricocheting off the captive ball to see if I have better success.

#7447 4 years ago
Quoted from RVH:

Just get the Pinbits sparky extended plastic and kick that games ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Does this set include the extended sparky protector?


#7458 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

Yup! It even says clear sparky protector included but not shown.

Thanks! I was confused, because I thought they were perhaps referring to a non-extended version of the protector.

#7484 4 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I didn't dawn on me until I removed the rubber rings from the original red in-lane guides at the top that one side of those plastic posts are wider than the other.

A lot of the Stern games are like that. I've never understood why, but I'm sure there's a logical reason for it.

#7541 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

FWIW I had to update the code and I received mine 5 days ago. It takes a lil while, but what me and my distro did while it was uploading was install mylar around the magnets, sparky protector, cliffys, snake fangs/tongue sticker and Mezel cemetery arch!!! Made use of the down time lolol

I just received my snake tongue decal in the mail. Do you have to remove the snake's head to properly install it?

#7559 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballcorpse:

Sounds like the lip on the base of the target face is not seating on the bracket. Rises, doesn't catch, drops, repeat until it catches.

This is what I was thinking as well. If this is the case, adding a small washer behind the plastic ledge could solve the problem. This fix is explained in this WPT service bulletin ...


#7560 4 years ago

I added some mods to my pro yesterday. Before doing anything, I installed some playfield support brackets that I picked up at Pinball Life. I was surprised that there weren't pre-drilled holes for the t-nuts. The last game I installed the brackets in was IM, and the holes were definitely there. Not a big deal, I just used the existing holes from the pegs. I can't stand games without support brackets because of that damn Stern "hump".

I also installed some neon green plastic protectors for the slings and outlanes, but I'm not sure if I like them. They look cool, but they drastically change the colors on the plastics. They also give a green tint to all the surrounding playfield artwork. I may swap them out with some clear protectors.


#7563 4 years ago

Anyone have a link to a good set of MET rules?

#7579 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I agree. You can use washers in strategic positions, but this tech pub just doesn't apply to Mets inline drops.

That's my bad. Despite owning the machine, I haven't really looked closely at the drop target mech yet. I falsely assumed it would be similar to other games I've owned in the past.

#7582 4 years ago

I have noticed on my pro that balls often get rejected from the snake. It seems like it takes a dead perfect shot for the ball to stick in the mouth. Is this how it's supposed to be? Are there any adjustment I can make to the mechanism to give me a little more leeway?

#7584 4 years ago

Working on pinball machines can sometimes be incredibly frustrating. Yesterday, I was finishing up installing plastic protectors on the outlanes. When I was tightening up the final nut, the top of the post broke right off. Of course, this is one of the most difficult to replace posts in the entire game. I'm now going to have to remove the entire flipper assembly to get at it ...


#7588 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

How hard are you cranking those nuts down? I've never had that problem, remember those are Nylocks and all you have to do with plastics like that is just barely snug then down. I put mine on just a little more then finger tight and have never had any of then come off.

I think what happened is that the nut wasn't on straight, causing uneven force to be applied to the threads as I tightened it. I should have started it by hand, but the nut was already in my nut driver. I'll certainly be a lot more careful in the future.

On a positive note, this may be just the incentive I need to install the extra lights beneath the inlane guides for the Total Lightshow mod.

#7618 4 years ago

It took me several tries to upgrade my MET LED. I would stick the USB drive in the slot, and nothing would happen. I eventually got it to work, but I had to try different combinations of turning the game on, flipping the DIP switch, etc ...

#7621 4 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Was your dmd screen ever blank though?

No. It never went blank. Something seems wrong with yours.

#7644 4 years ago

A quick question about installing a ColorDMD in a MET Pro LED. Can I use the existing power cable that was going into the DMD that came with the game, or do I have to tap into the power by the coin door like it says in the installation instructions? This is the first game I've installed a ColorDMD in that came with a low power LED DMD from the factory.

#7682 4 years ago

So when exactly is the key necessary? I've installed five ColorDMDs, and I've never had to deal with a key. I just moved a ColorDMD from WPT to MET the other day, and I didn't have to deal with a key then either.

#7713 4 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Got sucked into buying some signed new DD artwork at CAX this weekend.

That's a really cool drawing! Those guys piloting the ship remind me of the two coked out dudes from Heavy Metal.

#7747 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Just been bashing balls all week, no strategy really ; just trying to figure out shots and jammin. Anybody gotta link for a ruleset?

It's not up to date, but I'm sure you will find this helpful ...


#7757 4 years ago

I mentioned earlier in this thread about how I broke off the top of the post when I was tightening down one of the nuts. Does anyone know what the part number for this post is?


#7790 4 years ago

Surely someone knows the part number of the broken post that is circled in this photo?


#7797 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

And can someone tell me how to collect fuel?

I believe every time you hit the fuel targets it will give you a letter in the word "FUEL". Hit them four times, and it lights the next fuel bar on the playfield. Once you fill up your entire tank, the next hit to the fuel targets starts FUEL mode.

#7817 4 years ago

I have a few questions about swapping out the music using Pinball Browser ....

1 - Does the replacement track have to be the same length as the original track?
2 - Is there a way to change the track name that is displayed on the DMD within the game?
3 - Assuming you can change the track name, are there any downsides to doing this? Does this mess up the Color DMD?

#7820 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

1 - If your new song is longer it gets chopped, and if shorter, you get blank space. So, yes, should be the same length. As close as you can get.
2 - You can edit in game strings in pinball browser, just search for the name you want to change and edit it. Make sure to change any occurances you find.
3 - Depending on how the masking is done in the colordmd, this answer can go either way. The song selection screen at game start is probably not going to be affected by changes, but very often changing text strings CAN affect the color (like changing "BONUS" to "BONER - tee-hee)

Thanks, dude! That's exactly the information I was looking for.

#7824 4 years ago
Quoted from racerx12:

Does anyone else's guitar pic led light turn off during game play or is it just my machine?

Probably just a loose LED.

#7856 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I make all sorts of mylar circles and cut outs for games, have a big one made up for Sparky, as well as ones for the hammer hole and standard magnets. Can make them clear, or colored for the small magnets.

This may be a stupid question, but why would a person want a colored piece of mylar on their playfield?

#7881 4 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

So if I go all the way to the left, and start going right, I get the songs in that order but the list stops and is all the way to the right at Battery. I cannot continue going right to select any of the last several songs.
Other times, the list starts on master of puppets (all the way to the left) and goes right to Fuel but never lets me pick anything to the "left" of master of puppets in the list.

That is very odd. I don't even see how what you are describing is possible.

#7897 4 years ago
Quoted from jeffsarcade:

Are external subs tough to hook up to the machine?

It's very easy, actually. Just solder a couple alligator clips on to some speaker wire, clip them on to the cabinet speaker terminals, and then run those wires into either the left or right high level input on the sub.

Another option is to go with the PINsub kit ....


#7913 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Which do you have? I've been stalking waiting for the Polks to go on sale without any success finding any open box deals or amazon sales.

Your best bet is Craigslist. I see used Polk PSW10s come up all the time. Here's one not to far from you for $50 ...

washingtondc.craigslist.org link

#7923 4 years ago

I want to order some translucent rings for my slings. What size Titans are you guys using?

#7927 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

FWIW I have the 2" purple Titans on mine (looks awesome btw). BUT....they are a tad to small I feel. Because they are so tight the ball bounces off the slings alot now with no triggering of the slingshot coil. I want to try the next size bigger. 2 and 1/2" maybe? For now I have put the original black ones back on.

Thanks! This is exactly the information I was looking for. I thought I read that some people found the 2" ones to be too tight. I'll order both sizes.

#7934 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Titan recommends the 2.5 for 2" factory sling rubbers across the board ...

Good to know. Does anyone have a complete list of all the rubbers in the game? I thought I read that the manual is wrong.

#7948 4 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

When his foot breaks off ...

Is this something that's common on home use only games, or generally something you only see on routed games?

#7949 4 years ago

I'm going to be swapping out all of the black factory rubber with Titan silicone rubbers. I know I want to use translucent for the slings, but I'm unsure about what colors to use for the rest of the game. I'd love to see some photos of people's games with different color combinations.

#7955 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Titan rings do not really make that significant of a change to be breaking plastics. The speed difference really isn't that noticeable.

I would agree. I've done complete Titan swaps on TSPP, TWD and XMLE, and the games play pretty similar to how they did with the stock factory rubber. It's perhaps a little more bouncy, but certainly nothing drastic.

#7957 4 years ago

I'd still love to see some photos of different colored Titans on the game. I suppose I could go with translucent for the whole shebang, but I'm thinking that the colorful art on the game offers some interesting opportunities to get creative.

#7961 4 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

btw, whoever created that got two of the rubber rings incorrect. the ones that I've highlighted in green (see below) should actually be 5/16" ID rings, not 7/16" OD

Thanks for pointing that out before I placed my Titan order.

#7967 4 years ago

$200 is crazy. Of course, I just might be crazy enough to take the bait ....

#7970 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The rubbers fit and I have photos of my color choices (not stellar - but fine) in the thread on my chart ...

Where are these photos that you speak of? I'd love to see what that color combination looks like.

#7996 4 years ago
Quoted from SomeCaliGuy:

The LED bulbs in Metallica are absolutely stunning. I've purchased some other LED from other companies and they just don't seem to be as bright. Where can I find the ones used in Metallica?

Comet and Cointaker both sell the exact same LEDS that Stern uses. They are the clear dome twin 2835 SMDs...


#8000 4 years ago

This may just be my imagination, but I feel like the first time I shoot the left ramp each game on my MET pro, it doesn't register the hit. After that, it works perfectly for the rest of the game. Is this possibly some kind of software glitch? If my game is the only one doing this, then I obviously need to take a closer look at that switch.

#8003 4 years ago

Can someone please explain the FUEL lane to me. I have a firm grasp of the rules now, but this aspect of the game still confuses me. I know that sometimes the shot will start double scoring, but I'm not sure when. Also, what do the three inserts represent?

#8005 4 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

The inserts represent the corresponding pop bumper.

Okay, now I'm even more confused. What does the fuel lane have to do with the pop bumpers?

#8010 4 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

If you look at the dmd while it's hitting the pops, it counts down the hits from 10. After 10 hits the corresponding insert will light. After all 3 are lit you will get a blown piston if you hit the piston target at the end of a combo. 10 blown pistons = extra ball.

Thanks for that explanation! I never knew what the deal was with the counting down on the DMD. Now it makes perfect sense. So you basically wait for all three lights to light, and then go for the fuel shot. When else should you go for that shot? How do you know when double scoring is available? It seems like you would obviously want to stack that with a high scoring mode or multiball/s.

#8013 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Double scoreing is lit in the fuel lane after lighting a spot on the fuel gauge in the center playfield. You do that by spelling fuel at the fuel targets.
So 4 hits to fuel lights another spot on gauge and lights left shot for 2x scoring.
You can keep hitting thenlane during double scoring to reset the counter to ?30? Seconds.

Quoted from Jaybird815:

It also is jackpot during fuel mode

Thanks, guys! I think I got it now. The code is very impressive on this game. I guess Lyman doesn't f**k around.

#8030 4 years ago

I recently took delivery of a brand new MET pro LED. The playfield looks great. There is no ghosting at all, and the clearcoat is smooth as glass. Some of the inserts have minor scratches on them, but it's only noticeable if you look closely. Overall, I couldn't be happier.

#8035 4 years ago
Quoted from FlipperMagician:

Indeed this has gone on long enough but making petty threats just isn't my style, not that I have a lawyer in the first place. I'm a customer service manager myself so I tend to be as polite as possible when dealing with the people trying to help me. I deal with enough assholes and their crazy demands I'm not about to become one of them.
I'd probably be a little more impatient if my distributor had any Metallica Premiums in stock, but they don't so I'm simply left waiting until they receive more from Stern. The lost shipment is between them and the shipping company, there's really nothing I can do to speed up the process. Or maybe I'm just too laid back to get worked up over something that doesn't have an immediate fix.

That sucks, dude. It will all be worth the wait, but I can't imagine how frustrated you must be. Out of curiosity, how long have you been waiting for the game? When did you first put your money down on it?

#8049 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

I don't know about everyone else, but I just realized that you can disable the orbit diverter post. Holy crap what a difference. The game plays 3x as fast, it's like figuring out that the parking brake has been on for 6 months.

The problem with this is that you are missing out on a ton of pop bumper hits. The rules are specifically designed with the orbit post in mind.

#8052 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Replacing the plastic post with a metal one has eliminated annoying rebounds too.

Swapping out that post is an absolute must. With the metal post, the ball is stopped 95% of the time. With the plastic post, it is rejected 95% of the time.

#8057 4 years ago
Quoted from jeffsarcade:

From the Metallica rules wiki, if you hold down the flipper to drop the post, the top left lane is worth 2x and the top right lane is worth 4x.

I didn't know this, but that's some great coding.

#8081 4 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Who's got the best price for a NIB monster premium?

I can't confirm this for sure, but I've heard that Stern has been cracking down on their distributors and forcing them to adhere to strict minimum pricing. If this is true, you may not find much of a difference in price from the various distributors.

#8102 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I did...I increased the coil setting from where it was (32...perhaps the default?) to the max 64 but that hasn't solved the issue.
Any additional thoughts/suggestions?

Did you check underneath the playfield to verify that everything is nice and tight? If you are getting inconsistent fires from the snake, it might be because the plunger isn't making solid contact with the ball. Make sure everything is screwed down tight, and that the plunger is moving freely back and forth.

#8106 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

A "target splint" eh? I'm not familiar with that but I'm certainly going to look into it.

It's a great product ...


#8120 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballnut3:

Finally joined the club been a groupie for way to long!
What are the best new mods?? The must haves??

Well first there are the essential mods such as Cliffy protectors, plastic protectors, extended Sparky plastic, target splints, etc ... You also want to swap out the plastic diverter post with the metal one ASAP. Some additional mods that I think are absolutely worth it on this game would be a shaker motor, external sub, ColorDMD and the Total Lightshow mod. If you still have any money left after all that, you could add pinbaldes, a custom painted Sparky, lighted speakers, and other cool bling!!!

#8125 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

More importantly ; I've noticed my plunger is too far left, causing balls to jump outta the shooter lane sometimes. Is this an easy fix ? Thanks.

Loosen the assembly, adjust it to your liking, tighten it back up.

#8126 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Ramp protectors? For metal ramps?

Who suggested ramp protectors?

#8134 4 years ago

The Cliffy does make the Mystery shot slightly more difficult to make, but it's a tradeoff that's well worth it, in my opinion.

#8146 4 years ago

I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this yet, but Metallica is streaming live from Minneapolis tonight on Pandora at 9pm CT ....


#8164 4 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

I believe the aluminum block is to avoid the captive ball getting magnetized and have the ball in play stick to it and get stuck.

This reminds me of what happened the other day during grave marker multiball. I had three balls going, and I sent a ball into the cemetery to score a double jackpot. I then backhanded a second ball up there for the super jackpot, but it stuck to the first ball instead of dislodging it. I did it again with the third ball, and all three got stuck up there.

#8204 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I was going to ask you guys about the "traditional lock-down bar" Whats the deal with that? Honestly I don't even know what the difference is between a traditional VS latching one? All I know is, I put the lock down bar in position and lock it.

All Stern pros now come with a newer type of lockdown bar which is secured via two latches inside the cabinet. It takes a little more effort to lock and unlock, but I've actually grown to prefer it. It seems to lock more tightly than the traditional ones.

As for whether to go with the pro or the premium, it's a very tough call. Unlike a lot of other Stern titles, there are plenty of arguments for both versions. I ultimately went with the pro. I felt it offered a better bang for the buck. If money wasn't an object, I may have gone with the premium, but I'm still not a huge fan of the hammer. Either way, they are both awesome games. You really should spend some serious time playing both and decide for yourself if you think the added features on the premium are worth it to you.

#8208 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does the PRO come with the lighting effects on the speakers?

Neither version comes with speaker lighting. It is an aftermarket mod.

#8234 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What about the songs? Can I upload any songs I want?

You can swap out any song you want using Pinball Browser ....


#8279 4 years ago

To me, it's not so much that the hammer blocks the view of Sparky, but that it simply makes the middle of the playfield look like a cluttered mess. I hate the way it is shoved right up against the snake, and I think the hammer itself is kind of ugly.

#8282 4 years ago
Quoted from roddog:

Hello All!
Just got my Metallica Monsters yesterday! I love this dang game. However, this is the first machine I have owned and do not know how to troubleshoot issues. The extra-ball hole does not register. You can shoot the ball in there and the machine will eventually shoot it back out but not register the shot. Does anybody have and advice or references to guides on how to troubleshoot/fix this small problem.
Thank you so much!

There is a switch in the hole that is obvioulsy not registering. First thing I would do is check under the playfield to make sure it is properly connected.

#8286 4 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

I see you are a new member and this may be your first machine. Don't forget to remove the balls or stick a rag in the eject hole to stop them from flying out when you lift the playfield.

Even experienced pinball owners can forget this now and then. I lifted myt MET playfield the other day, and all four balls came crashing down. One of them slammed into the PDI glass on the machine next to it. Thank god there was no damage, but boy did I feel like an idiot.

#8302 4 years ago

The first thing you should do is put the game in switch test mode and verify that the switch is actually registering. If it is, then you probably need to tweak it a bit like TimeBandit and tigerpin suggested. That little arm that protrudes through the opening in the metal is called an actuator. You can slightly bend it so that it sticks further out into the scoop hole. This will cause the ball to close the switch earlier

#8325 4 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

Yeah, the upper jaw was tight and I couldn't wedge them in. Additionally, I didn't have enough room to get an offset screwdriver in to loosen the screw in the upper metal plate, so everything had to come out.

You need to get yourself a mini ratcheting screwdriver. They really come in handy for stuff like this ...

amazon.com link »

Mini Ratcheting Screwdriver (resized).jpg

#8329 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Getting the play field back in is a pain. I'm not sure how to wrestle it over the hump without lifting up in the back. Once you do it a few times you will have it figured out.

The easiest way by far to get the playfield back in is to use the technique shown in the video that j_m_ linked to above. You push down hard on the apron, and the back of the playfield will pop right over the hump. Unfortunately, this will only work if you have support rails installed. The pegs remain one of the stupidest ideas Stern ever came up with.

#8431 4 years ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

Does anyone know who sells the extended plastic protector that goes in above Sparkys feet to calm the airballs? i believe it was orange colored. checked Pinball life and mezelmods, didnt see them.

Pinbits sells it. You can buy it separately, or it is also included in the complete plastic protector kit.

1 week later
#8459 4 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

I like the pinballbulbs.com protectors because they are clear In the middle and don't wash out the insert. +1 for pinbits sparky cover. Fluorescent Orange is where it's at!

Your game looks great! One word of caution, though. It looks like your Sparky magnet is beginning to mushroom. You may want to swap in a new core.

#8464 4 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Occasionally on my game when 2 balls are locked in the coffin lock trough and a ball drains, the game wont register the drain and it starts the ball hunt sequence. if I nudge the game it will end the ball and award the end-of-ball score and kick the next ball into the trough as normal. I don't know if this is a switch in the trough needing adjustment or a dirty opto somewhere or what. whats confusing to me is why this only seems to happen when 2 balls are in the coffin lock trough.

Any thoughts?

I have the pro, so I'm not certain about how the coffin lock works. I assume there are optos down there to register the locked balls. Perhaps the opto that registers the second ball is not functioning properly?

#8490 4 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Appreciate the heads-up!!! How difficult are they to swap?

It's very easy. Just remove the large nut and then screw the core out through the top of the playfield.

1 week later
#8528 4 years ago
Quoted from Gate-keeper:

When I shoot the piston target, it rolls back down and bounces off the top of the sling-shot and out the left out-lane. Its infuriating to say the least ...

Does it do this all the time? It will only happen on my game if the ball goes partly up the piston lane and comes back down at a specific velocity. It never happens on a solid shot to the piston target.

#8533 4 years ago
Quoted from Butterflygirl24:

Yep mine does this too...if it goes up and hits at a decent speed it normally doesn't do it, but if it goes 3/4 of the way up and doesn't hit it it will come back down look like it's going down the in-lane...then bounce and go out the out lane...to which I generally scream "Damn Borgie lane!!!" and stomp away till it is my turn again.

LOL! At league we refer to this as the dreaded "Borg Hop". It's even worse on Kiss.

#8551 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

... you have to make sure the level is square/perpendicular to the sides and/or parallel to the front of the playfield. Otherwise the level will be effected by the slope of the playfield.

I find you can often use the playfield art/inserts to aid in this. For example, in the photo above you can align the level with the edges of the feature inserts.

#8565 4 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Check out purpledrillmonkeys response to the article I linked, all the way at the very bottom.
Hope that helps.

Thanks for the link. I hadn't seen this article before. It's a great rundown of the rules.

#8571 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

In competitive play, I rarely go for Sparky Jackpots. They come naturally but I'm more focused on lighting Crank it up. The real points are in those modes.

Agreed. I view Sparky multiball primarily as a means to light Crank it Up. If you go into the multiball with several rows of inserts fully lit, it's not hard to complete cross, snake and electric chair. Coffin takes a bit more work, but it's still a lot easier and safer to attack it during multiball than during single ball play.

#8575 4 years ago
Quoted from Pickle:

Some people swear to change the plastic post on the loop to the metal one ...

This mod is an absolute must if you want the game to play like it was designed to.

2 weeks later
#8623 4 years ago

Those plastic trough shims are great. They not only help with magnetism, but they also take care of any hangups you might have because of trough divots.

#8648 4 years ago

From what I've read here on Pinside, I don't think MET is one of the games that was majorly affected by the playfield issues. There may be a few isolated cases out there, but I don't think it's anything like we've seen on games like GB or SMVE.

#8665 4 years ago

If there is anyone who knows the ins and outs of the lighting system on MET, it's TB .....

1 week later
#8688 4 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

Anybody selling the Equalizer mod that was posted awhile back yet? Not the side art, the small one that was above the shooter lane.

I'd love to buy this one as well. Yes, I know I could make my own, but I'm lazy ....

#8691 4 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I wonder if this would work with the skull inserts?

Exactly what I was thinking.

#8700 4 years ago

I wonder how the 3D printed thing would look with the eyeball sticker.

#8703 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The eyeballs on the sticker take up most of the room - you'd have to adjust the holes to be bigger and lined up with the art.

Yep. I think if you created one that was custom made for the eyeball sticker, it would really make the lit eyeballs more noticeable.

1 week later
#8737 4 years ago

This reminds me. Didn't you used to sell some kind of plastic gizmo that prevents spotlights mounted on hex posts from rotating? I recently searched for the product on your site, but I couldn't find it.

#8748 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I'm in the club! So psyched!

Wrong club, my friend ...

#8751 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

where did you get the mod for the hammer? looks good.

That's Aurich's hammer. He made a limited run of them a while back.

#8756 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

He was working on a pro version....

Perhaps this is a silly question, but how can you have a pro version when there is no hammer on the pro?

#8764 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

You're changing all references to the song title. They show up during game play for different reasons as standard text. When entering initials, during CIU modes, when modes end.

Does changing out every instance of a song name affect the dot colorization if you have a ColorDMD?

Quoted from Sparky:

The only titles that won't change is when the title is part of a DMD animation, like Battery or Blackened, for example.

Can you swap out a song as an option at the beginning of the game but still keep it when playing the corresponding CIU mode?

#8766 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

When you swap a song, it changes all instances of that song, even if it's just a short riff (match or end of game, for example).

That sucks. So if I changed out For Whom the Bell Tolls with something else, the wrong song would be playing when I select that CIU mode. That's a bummer.

#8791 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Pinbits - I needed nothing.

Same here. Installed the complete kit. Nothing else was needed.

#8840 4 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

it's a bit pricey, but given that a regular one is $225 from marco's and $200 from pinball life, it's not too bad of a mark-up to get someone like donny to custom paint your sparky

I agree. $250-$300 doesn't seem unreasonable to have an artist of Dirty Donny's caliber custom paint it. It would probably cost at least $100 to have a nobody paint it for you. Plus, there is something extra special about having a DD sparky, since he's the one that created sparky and did the art on the rest of the game.

1 week later
#8864 4 years ago
Quoted from Bearcat:

I had the same question. I did turn the voice attenuation to max the other night when I had the house to myself and wanted to rock out without the call outs.

If you turn the voice attenuation to "max", wouldn't it reduce the volume of the callouts?

#8872 4 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

What exactly is the correct sling size...2" or 2.5"

I believe the manual calls for 2" rubbers on the slings, but the general consensus is that 2" is too small, at least when using silicone rings. I have 2.5" clear Titans on mine, and they work great, but 2.25" would probably be the perfect size for this game.

#8902 4 years ago

I like to use the clear mylar protectors on my flipper buttons. They protect the area without covering up the art.

#8936 4 years ago

Excellent informative post, j_m_ !!!

2 weeks later
#9002 4 years ago

I've had better luck over the years with the smaller USB drives.

#9006 4 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

a quick question to everyone that's recently purchased a metallica (both pro and premium)
are your wire form ball guides (the ones staked on the play field) chromed or powder coated?

Mine are definitely not chromed. They have more of a matte look to them.

1 week later
#9072 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I've been interested in buying Metallica for a while now but have been hesitant to do so due to the ghosting, clearcoat and general playfield issues I've been reading about for so long. Are the new Metallicas coming with a good playfield now? Should I take the plunge and buy one? I know Stern offers to swap your PF but I honestly don't want to go through all that hassle, specially on a brand new machine.
Any advise is much appreciated. Thanks!

I don't think METs were ever really a problem, but even if they were, Stern seems to have finally gotten a handle on it. I have a GB premium that was built in October, and there is no ghosting at all.

#9108 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Installed my HOOKED spinners today in prep for bandits add on board. Im all set now. Looks good. Little nerve wrecking cutting on plastics. But all went well. !

What are you guys using to cut the plastics? This is the thing that has me the most nervous about attempting this mod.

#9115 4 years ago

I have a Dremel. What is the correct accessory? Some sort of cutting wheel?

#9162 4 years ago

The lifting and chipping of the clear at the outhole happens on virtually EVERY Stern. It's par for the course. Like others have said, put down some mylar or a cliffy over it, and you're good to go.

#9163 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Mine hits left flipper every time. If i have flipper up, it will go upnthe inlane and out sometimes, really smooth.

Hey, that's cheating! On my game, I have to do a drop catch if I want to make a left flipper shot.

#9195 4 years ago
Quoted from dug:

Yes.... It's basically the TZ gumball edge protector. Tell Cliff you want a Stern ball drain hole protector.
Works great, I just installed one on a Met.

This is correct. The TZ gumball edge protector also works perfectly to protect the outhole on Sterns.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Can you post a pic please? Thanks!

Here's a link to a video showing the installation of the protector on a GB ...

#9277 4 years ago

People should obviously adjust their game in a way that makes it the most fun for them. That being said, I wholeheartedly endorse the metal post mod. The fact of the matter is that the post is supposed to divert the ball to the pops every time the ball hits it. The metal post just fixes a poor design and allows the game to be played how Borg and Lyman envisioned.

#9279 4 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

How do we know that for sure? Unless some of the game designers have specifically said so, how do we know they didn't want a different outcome based on the approach speed?

We don't know for sure, but the code definitely gives us a clue. I can't imagine Lyman would have made the pop bumpers such an important part of the game if they were supposed to be so difficult to reach.

#9321 4 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

How does that work? It just looked like an on/off switch, just not sure how you change the volume with it.

It's a rocker switch. Push it up to raise the volume, and down to lower it.

#9328 4 years ago

As others have already pointed out, there should be a loose connector just laying on the bottom of the cab towards the back of the machine.

#9354 4 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone ever install these in a MET Pro? I've never owned a machine without the support brackets underneath, it really bothers me. How do you even properly work on these, I can't pull the playfield out far enough. I'm pretty sure the Star Trek Pro I used to own had them. Not sure how they'd even install, there are no holes for the t-nuts. Not even sure the exact spot to put them.

Yes. I installed those on my MET pro. Unfortunately, the new MET pro LEDs don't have the proper sized hole, so I had to improvise. I hammered the t-nut into the hole for the pegs. It's doesn't fit perfectly, but it gets the job done.

#9441 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Guys mylar is great for certain spots, but use this removable mylar, it's not vinyl cling , durable like mylar but with no residue or glue left behind when removed ...

amazon.com link »

What is the advantage of this vs. cling vinyl? Is it thinner or more durable?

#9470 4 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Thanks for the pics! Anyone have a hard time loosening the sparky magnet? Turning counter clockwise, can't budge it.

You need a wrench to loosen that huge nut.

#9567 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Does the trough for the coffin use similar roller microswitches like in the normal ball trough?

You can see from the photo above that they are optos.

#9649 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is this pretty normal for Stern games?

No, this is not normal. You sometimes have to fidget with it a bit to get it to go all the way down, but you shouldn't have to literally pound it into place. Have you tried adjusting your leg levelers?

#9655 4 years ago

On some games you have to pull the playfield towards you to get it to lay right. Did you try this?

#9661 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Did you try yelling & throwing shit across the room? This is what I do when I get frustrated. It does not help, but it makes me feel good.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

No, but my wife did that for me when she found out I spent 5K on a defective machine ...

If it makes you feel any better, a lot of wives would act that way even if you spent $5K on a perfectly working machine ...

#9738 4 years ago
Quoted from Thanos75:

Hey fellas...so it appears I have my first problem with my game. Haven't seen it covered yet.
I had noticed that sparky had stopped shaking when he was getting shocked. I thought it was a fluke but decided to check diagnostics to see if there was a test for it. Not one I could find. So I played another game and sure enough he didn't shake. Then all this smoke started blowing out the top of him. At first I thought it was a super cool effect that I hadn't heard about but then realized the situation. He is smoked.

Oh shit. I seem to recall some kind of problem where the Sparky coil can lock on if you power on the game with the coin door open. I thought this was fixed in later runs, though.

#9838 4 years ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

Changed some songs up on my MET Prem yesterday. I'm a big Guns N' Roses fan.
Sad but True - Welcome to the Jungle
Creeping Death - Sweet Child of Mine
Fuel - Out Ta Get Me
Seek and Destroy - Paradise City
The End of the Line - Rocket Queen
Master of Puppets - Civil War
Battery - Don't Damn Me
Ride the Lightening - Night-train
Blackened - You could be Mine

That's funny, because I changed out all the songs on my GNR to Metallica ...

#9894 4 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Less balls to worry about. If you only had two you can essentially have a single ball multiball = better accuracy and less flailing.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Very True!!! Nice!!! How can this be changed?

There is a setting in the menu. Just scroll through the menu. It will be obvious.

#9959 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Great info! Are most of the GI 555? Need to place an order but would rather not undo each light to check...Thanks!

I think they are all 555's.

#10080 3 years ago

I'm not sure what the move is called, but I do a partial drop catch as the ball hits the left flipper, which bounces the ball over the right flipper. I do this for any strobing shot on the left side of the playfield, and I'm able to pull it off a decent percentage of the time. If the strobing shot it on the right side of the playfield, I go for it on the fly.

#10082 3 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I think you're describing the loop pass.

Yep. That's exactly it. I never knew it was called a loop pass. I've become pretty good at this move. I first developed the skill on AC/DC.

#10122 3 years ago

I shot a quick video that demonstrates how to use a loop pass to set yourself up for a strobing super skill shot on the left side of the playfield ...

#10124 3 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

How do you get the ball to go around the entire orbit on the plunge? The post on top always pops up on mine and the ball always goes into the pops?

You have to hold the left flipper button as you plunge the ball. This disables the post and gives you access to the super skill shot. If you hit any of the major shots before the timer runs out, you will score a super skill shot. One of the lanes will have all of the inserts flashing. This is the best one to go for, because if you hit it you will complete the entire lane in one shot (sparky, snake and grave). This will get you to both CIU and Seek and Destroy faster.

If you haven't already checked it out, I highly recommend reading through the rules. There are a lot of nuances in the code ...