(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#7056 3 years ago

I'm contemplating joining the club with a NIB Metallica Pro purchase. However, there are rumours that Stern is late/behind on their usual production runs and so it seems uncertain when they might next produce Metallica Pro.

For interest's sake, can someone who's recently purchased a Metallica Pro respond with the date of manufacture on their machine? Trying to date the latest production run.

Any sense here of how often Stern has been running Metallica Pros over say, the last 12 months or so?

Thx.

#7060 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

I ordered one last week and I was told it would be ready by the end of the month, but who knows now with all the delays being reported. MET will be my first NIB so I'm willing to wait.

Yeah, I got some quotes last week and one of them said it would probably be into June before it was built. Might have some merit if late May is now June due to delays at Stern. Or, just as likely, it's just something the distributor said that didn't sound too far off but wasn't next week either to try to close the sale.

1 week later
#7147 3 years ago

Hi all!

I'm thrilled to join the Metallica owners club with the arrival of my NIB Met Pro yesterday!

One question I have is regarding the clarity of the clear inserts on the playfield. On my machine they are all "bubbly" with little speckles in the finish or plastic itself. I was a bit taken aback when I saw this as I expected them to be crystal clear.

Can anyone comment on whether this appears "normal" for a Metallica playfield (you can ignore the black spec that's in my camera lens)?

MysteryInsert_(resized).png

PopBumpersInsert_(resized).jpg

#7199 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

I think its due to the plastic protector not working very well. Each time the ball hits the plastic lane, it then touch/pushes on the light.

When I set up my NIB Pro last week ( ) one of Fuel gauge insert lights was intermittent. I ended up fixing it by pushing a metal scraper blade into the slots on the back of the socket where the wires go to push them in a little tighter (power off, of course). That fixed it.

Those fast connect sockets Stern is using these days remind me of the fast connect light-switches in my house that I've had to gradually replace due to connection failures over the years. I worry about their ability to standup to vibration over time.

#7200 3 years ago
Quoted from HankScorpio:

I have one Metallica LED Insert Mod ready to ship out today! PM me to order!

Those look really nice. If I wanted to color match the inserts for each type (snake, cross, switch) to these, what led bulbs for the Pro inserts would be a good match for the colors you used?

#7244 3 years ago

FYI I created a new poll thread for the "crazed" clear inserts on my NIB Met Pro: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-my-nib-metallica-pro-playfield-defective

If you don't mind, please go vote based on whether or not your clear inserts look like mine or are perfectly clear.

This is just for interest's sake.

Thx.

#7269 3 years ago

What is the consensus on plastic protectors for Met?

I got the full set of flourescent green ones but am finding it to be a bit too green...

I was thinking of removing all but the slings and ball guides, and extended sparky one of course.

Anyone have any horror stories of other plastics breaking without additional protectors on this game?

#7274 3 years ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

I also found these a bit too green - taking away from the lighting effects.
I've now only got them fitted to the ball guides and find them perfect.

Thanks for responding.

I'm wondering if I need to bother with additional clear protectors for the plastics other than the slings and ball guides at the bottom?

Anyone ever have one of the upper playfield plastics break?

Thx.

#7299 3 years ago

That is sweet! Love it!

Someone should make a transparent lcd that fits there so you could animate the shadow figures and still have the regular lighting effects. Bugs and worms could crawl out of the skull eye sockets, etc.

#7328 3 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone get a NIB Met Pro of a more recent run? Built within the last few months? I'm wanting to pull the trigger on a NIB Met Pro but keep hearing about playfield issues on other threads, not just MET but other pins like GB as well. Clearcoat issues, inserts lifting from the clear coat etc... Any advice or thoughts here would be appreciated! Before anyone suggests getting a used one - yes I've looked for awhile, none have popped up near me, I want the Pro LED version.

Picked up my NIB Met Pro in late May. Same deal, was looking to buy used but nothing readily available that made $ sense to me, plus my retailer had one in stock and I was worried with the Stern delays recently that I wouldn't get one until the fall if I didn't pull the trigger now.

Initially I was put off by all the crazing on the inserts on my playfield, but it seems like this is very common and you do get used to it. I also had issues with my clearcoat chipping off of the drain hole after less than a week of home play which was *not* cool at all. I made a thread if you haven't seen it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-my-nib-metallica-pro-playfield-defective

If you get one, protect the drain hole, shooter lane, around the magnets, under the ramp drops, and the Mystery hole before you play a single game if you are fussy about stuff like this. Stern's current clearcoat does not hold up at all anywhere there is anything but a flat surface.

The game itself is amazing! Full adrenaline rush and always makes you feel like you left points on the table everytime you finish. So I'd say go for it if you're so inclined, but wear protection!

#7330 3 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Yea, I read through that thread before. That was the one that got me a little worried to purchase one of the current NIB Met Pros. I know distributors got more of them, I've called a couple. I would have pulled the trigger on one if it wasn't for these clearcoat issues. The Star Trek Pro I used to own had zero playfield issues, it was perfect the entire time I owned it.

Yeah, welcome to the Stern NIB "lottery"...

Any chance you could inspect the game before you buy at the distributor?

#7332 3 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I don't think so. It would be shipped to me. I could probably make me peace with the crazing, but the clearcoat chipping really worries me.

Others who have had similar chipping issues claim that applying mylar stops it / prevents it. But if it would bother you a lot, you're probably better off finding a used game where you can see it doesn't have the chipping issues before you buy.

2 weeks later
#7594 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

What is the best fix for shooter lane, drain and mystery protection? I was hoping my NIB from early this year would be exempt. But, my drain hole clear has started peeling up. Will mylar work or should I invest in some sort of metal protectors. I would rather not use metal protectors if possible. They always make scoop shots way more difficult.

I had the same issue almost immediately on my game.

I contacted Cliffy regarding a protector for the drain hole and he said he is working on it as he needs it for his own Metallica as well. Not ready yet AFAIK. I'd put mylar there and make sure you cover the inside edges of the playfield in the hole as they chip off in no time at all. Stern is sending me a "repair kit" but I haven't received it yet so don't know what it contains.

I put the Mantis protector that goes inside the mystery scope on mine but I can already see the clear is starting to chip at the top edge of the hole anyway so I'd just put the cliffy on there and be done with it. Stern's clearcoat is ridiculously fragile on any edges it seems.

For the shooter lane I've read folks having problems with the metal cliffy's there interfering with the normal ball flow. Folks using Mylar there report no wear so use that instead (looks better with mylar too imho). You might still want to get the metal protector that goes on the black wood rail beside the shooter lane.

I used Avery self-laminating sheets instead of mylar everywhere except the drain hole and it seems to work well and is easy to apply and can be removed or replaced anytime. Others have also reported good experiences with it preventing wear over an extended period. Plus you can pick it inexpensively at a Walmart or office supply store.

You'll also want to apply mylar around the magnets and under the ramp drops. Using the self-laminating sheet material I just went ahead and covered the whole area in front of Spary's feet past the magnet since it sees so much action. Can't really tell that it is there.

#7622 3 years ago

So I added the PinGraffix Snake Mod to my PRO awhile back (original 2D). I really like the look of it but was frustrated by how the extended plastic behind the snake head blocked my ability to see the rollover lane lights and 2/3 pop bumper flashers. Seemed like a high price to pay for a few inches of "snakiness".

I considered doing what some have done and either add a reflective surface or another set of lights below the right ramp but couldn't figure out a good solution. While adding spinners to my PRO yesterday (which involves cutting the plastics), I decided why not reshape the snake plastic a bit so the rollover lanes are still visible while preserving the snake body effect.

Using a pencil and some tape to draw the new shape on the plastic:
Using a pencil and some tape to draw the new shape on the plastic

Using a wheel grinder to cut the plastic away (this technique is awesome, btw, if you ever need to cut plastics in a very controllable manner) - note this isn't the snake plastic shown in this pic:
Using a wheel grinder to cut the plastic away

The newly reshaped snake plastic:
The newly reshaped snake plastic

The modified snake plastic on the game:
The modified snake plastic on the game

I think it turned out really well, when viewing and playing the game the snake looks fine and being able to directly see the lights and flashers is a big improvment.

1 month later
#8181 3 years ago

I love the pro, faster gameplay, no ugly huge hammer blocking your view!

I always assumed Stern used the 2 ball captive ball to avoid patent infringments with Williams, but recently heard an interview with John Trudeau who stated it was to avoid making the switch inaccessible due to having to wait for a single ball to return to the rest position.

Not sure if any other Stern games use a typical single ball captive ball or not though...

#8263 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Just think of all the awesome mods u can put on the pro for the price of a premium now.

This ^^^ !

If you are into adding mods yourself the Met Pro is a paradise machine. However, if you'd rather just play the game the Premium might be your better choice if you really want the improved lightshow, etc.

Having said that, they are both awesome games stock so if you bought the Pro and did nothing to it you'd still be having a blast!

But the Premium lightshow, etc. is really sweet...
Shit, now I can't decide either!

Kidding, I went Pro and am modding it up over time. I'm too damn cheap to splurge even more for the Premium.

2 weeks later
#8467 3 years ago

Hi all, FYI I'm selling a really nice Met Pro LED with a bunch of mods, etc.

Archived after 33 days
793 views
Not sold: Decided to keep game
Machine - For Sale
HUO - Documented (Home Used Only) “I'm selling my like-new Metallica Pro LED. This home-use-only game is less than 6 months old and still has that new pinball smell! Needless to say, it is in perfect working condit...”
2016-09-08
Airdrie, AB
6,900

#8484 3 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

This pic was from three years ago when I did it on my METLE.

That *does* look nice. I do like the extra light they provide though. I wonder if it would work if you moved them over to the top bolt on the outlanes instead. They'd be more out of the way there but still throw some useful light. Should be able to route the wires up the GI light socket hole near there.

#8498 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I have the spotlights removed off the slings. Routed the left spotlight to light up behind fuel target. The look is much better. I have my machine a dark room so only light is from the game and can see fine without the spotlights.

So the spotlight is still mounted on top of the playfield?

Have a pic?

#8499 3 years ago

Okay, suddenly my grave marker opto switch is constantly on. I inspected the switch, opto alignment, etc. but it all looks fine.

If I unplug the opto sensor from the opto board, it still registers as on, so it's not the opto's themsevles.

Any suggestions?

#8505 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

You have a sender and a receiver but they are identical parts, just used differently. Try swapping the position of the two connectors on the small opto board. If it starts working you can actually leave it that way in a pinch, but it would mean you have a bad opto.

Thanks for the tip. I was able to determine that my opto sensor that plugs into J4 is bad.

1 week later
#8541 3 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Are there any distributors who are selling these NIB right now for pro's? Doesn't seem to be any for sale in my local area, just thought that I'd check. Thanks

Not sure where you are but I have one for sale that's not NIB, but only a few months old, HUO, with mods.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/39003

3 weeks later
#8605 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Could someone explain how to perform the swap? I'm definitely interested.

Going from memory:

1. Remove two screws that hold the plate that holds the coil for the post in (not the coil stop).
2. Remove the plastic tipped post from the coil. The spring will come off the post as well.
3. Mount spring from plastic post to new metal one.
4. Insert metal post and spring into coil.
5. Screw the coil plate back into the base plate.
6. Check to see if the top of the metal post is level with the playfield when it's down. Adjust height as required with screw in guide at opposite end from the coil stop.

A picture would help but there's not much to it.

1 week later
#8647 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I do have a sub Polk. The music volume by default for some of the songs sound lower than others no?

The only song that I've noticed sounding lower is Master of Puppets. I think that's just because of the way it was mixed/levelled in the studio originally.

If you increase the music attenuation in the game settings (which means the values go greater into the negative range, like volume on a tuner), you can make the music louder vs the sound effects and speech. On mine I have the music at -12 and the speech at +12 to make the music more present in the mix and the speech less so.

There is a sw bug though if you adjust the music attenuation to anything other than 0 the music will often quit playing when you lose your ball. This seems like bad math programming on Lyman's part when the game tries to lower the music during the post ball presentation sequence. I would bet $1 that he's not aligning the signs and ends up with a very low music attenuation value that is too quiet to hear.

4 weeks later
#8774 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Metallica's new album is out!!! Pretty good Long ass songs so 2 cd's, 6 on each.
Stern signs another license with Metallica.....update with a new song on?!?!??! xmas gift?!?!

You're saying Stern has renewed their license with Metallica?
Do you have a reference for this?

#8825 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

...I think with exclusively sterns including a bm66le otw...

Dude, you're missing out on so much! Why so many Stern's? Only buy NIB?

1 week later
#8865 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

If you turn the voice attenuation to "max", wouldn't it reduce the volume of the callouts?

Yep. They are too prominent in the mix by default, the music needs to ROCK! But I wouldn't turn them off, either.

#8878 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipperMagician:

Thanks man, and all the other thumb uppers as well, I believe I said you were my lost machine support group and wasn't kidding. Some of the excitement was lost in the process, but it was well worth the wait. Game plays flawlessly out of the box, which actually surprised me after reading about others experiences.
I will definitely be changing out some if not all of the GI though, too fu*kin bright for my taste. I believe I have enough of the same leds in frosted on hand to make that happen. Also not crazy about the red/blue mixture in some spots, particularly the slings and inlanes so I'll be fiddling with that as well. I know these are there so the lighting can go all blue or red for certain modes, but it just looks wonky to me at all other times.
I'm open to ideas as to what others have done here, I can't be the only one.

Lol! This same reaction happens a lot when the mighty blinding Metallica enters a gameroom. If you stick with it for a bit, you'll figure out that all your other games are actually just too dim...

1 week later
#8946 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

still waiting for that expected code update. Apparently the bug that exists which causes the music to stop entirely after a drained ball if you increased the music volume will be fixed. where is it? I always put the music up more so it's louder.

Yeah this bug is really annoying if you like to increase the music volume in the mix, and who doesn't - am-I-right?

Easy fix too I'm sure, here's hoping!

#8947 2 years ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

I think Stern is interested is investing more time in this game as the license has been extended and they will be making more. Make the code better and that turns into a lot more. Band member modes in conjunction with Blackened would be cool. I'm sure there's more that could be done.

Well, it is possible that they will do a bit more.

Metallica is probably their finest overall achievement in recent memory, and has to be approaching or already become the most sold game they've made in the modern era. With a contract extension in place, new album by the band, it would be cool to see another set of feature adds to push it way over the top! + Lyman knows this is probably his life's masterpiece.

3 weeks later
#9065 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Oh holy hell. I've owned both and you will enjoy Metallica way longer. STTNG is unique and a decent game, but Met is in another league.

Perhaps, but finding a really nice STTNG is a lot harder than finding a nice MET these days. I'd say you might want to grab that STTNG now, you can always grab a MET later if you want.

#9087 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I don't mind that at all. I just don't want to buy a NIB machine that's going to start ghosting from the get go. That's all. First time buying a Stern pin for me...

Why not find a nice used one then that you can inspect prior to purchasing? That would be my recommendation if you don't feel like playing the Stern NIB lottery.

1 week later
#9154 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Guys, chill out, the clear is not lifting, it's a slight discoloration in the wood. Man, people trying to find fire where there's no smoke. I also looked very closely at every single insert, all perfect.
This is lifting...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/183#post-3555549

That is the beginning of it lifting, the light colored areas are where the clear is starting to seperate from the wood.

You're going to want to cover that area with mylar or a cliffy asap to stop it from rapidly becoming worse.

Certainly not a big deal if you get it protected. Sorry.

#9166 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Another pic with apron off...i see no issues with the clear, looks perfect to me.

I've circled the two spots where the clear is starting to separate, you'll want to cover it with mylar as soon as possible to avoid those areas expanding and eventually chipping off completely.

IMG_0661 (resized).JPG

#9172 2 years ago
Quoted from zene10:

Here's my solution for the Pingraffix Snake obstructing the rollover target lights. Dirty Donny lit guitar picks.

Quoted from Dee-Bow:

The guitar pics look cool..the post with wire wrapped around it behind them...not so much! Great idea tho. Also would be cool to pay tribute to Burton &Newsted on them!

With some work you could route the wire straight up the backside of the post out of sight. That is sweet!

#9217 2 years ago
Quoted from zene10:

Thanks for all the suggestions. I re-routed the wiring. Looks much cleaner.
The Snake Mod²

Looks perfect now! How did you do it?

#9226 2 years ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

Annnd some flipper toppers too!

Those things are sick! Vince is the best!

#9377 2 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

I made some clear cling playfield protectors what do you guys think they seem to be working well on my machine - pictures have white paper backing on them so they are visible - also made flipper button protectors of the same material and they are working great and removable

I use this stuff also instead of mylar for most areas. Goes on easy, practically invisible when applied, no glue to mess around with, can remove it anytime instantly, dirt cheap to buy, etc. etc.

Can't really say how effective it is long-term but I've heard good things from others in this regard.

1 week later
#9726 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

About the playing time....Ever since I started reading this Thread, I all hear is to "Install cliffys before ball 1 is played" or else. I got spooked I guess with all the bad reviews and all the paranoia out there

Word to the wise, my Metallica drain hole starting seeing damage in the first hundred games easily. I would not play it without mylaring the drain hole unless you are not concerned. Sorry, but it happened to me.

-1
#9777 2 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

you do realize that the metal protector in front of the snake mouth is not a cliffy, but rather a factory provided protector that was installed during manufacture of the machine by stern, correct?

Based on how beat up my "factory cliffy" in front the snake is I'd seriously consider putting it back on again. If even Stern decided it was a necessary expense, you know something's up.

#9853 2 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

The average player really has no idea it's even an option by just looking at the playfield...

Double scoring is not FOR the average player.

#9869 2 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

One strategy for reaching multiple CIU's is to NOT start Seek and Destroy. Starting S&D will reset all the inserts, making it more difficult to start the next CIU.

Good to know! I wondered what the logic was that did that, always hated it when all my hard work disappeared. I kind of thought it was happening after a couple of CIU's were played...

#9873 2 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Seek & Destroy is a mode that starts when you complete the inserts in all 5 lanes (and lock them in after hitting the coffin/captive ball hurry up). When this mode ends, all the inserts will be un-lit, as if you are starting all over, and it is more difficult to acquire the number of Snakes, crosses, and chair switches needed to start the next CIU.
Once you choose a CIU, the next time it will not be available as a choice. You have to play all four, and then qualify CIU again a 5th time for End of the Line.

So what is the benefit of completing Seek and Destroy then? At least try to save it for after you complete End of the Line? Though I suppose it is pretty much impossible to avoid it as the captive ball shot is so important for other things.

2 weeks later
#10169 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Ok, a little bit of thinking and I made this coffin into a keeper in 30 minutes.

Nicely done!

I think it might look good also, even with just the original coffin, if you had it lying flat like the original pic, but at a bit of angle, just slightly elevated off of the plastic about 25deg or so. And of course, you could make it so that it starts almost totally flat and then elevates to vertical when coffin multiball starts...

...might be another job for timebandit !

#10176 2 years ago

Didn't see this here yet, check out these totally sick looking custom sculpted and painted replacement hammers for MET Premium/LE from spinny-vinny: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-metallica-hammer-mod#post-3642218

#10182 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I enjoy searching around and thinking of mod ideas for Metallica - such a great pin for cool band related cosmetic mods. Was thinking of doing something with one of the many cool belt buckles available, like this one for $9:
ebay.com link » Vintage Metallica Symbol Rock Music Belt Buckle Casual Style 3 8 4cm Strap Hot
But then I just saw that Hooked on Pinball sells the same belt buckle for $40. That's a quite a markup on a cheap Chinese belt buckle.
http://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p12/Metallica_billboard.html

Yeah, sadly there are a number of 'mod' shops that aren't above putting a ridiculous markup on readily available items, ala that Modfather coffin post earlier. It pays to look for stuff on ebay and amazon for sure, if you're at all handy.

It's one thing to produce something truly unique and creative for the pinball community, which I heartily applaud, but if you're just re-packaging something and marking it up 24X your cost well, I guess there's a sucker born every minute...

#10201 2 years ago
Quoted from Thanos75:

Now that ColorDmd has screens back in stock I'm really torn between the LCD or the LED. Other than videos and pics I have never seen one in person. I know everyone says it comes down to personal preference but in the end which one is better for this game?

I just replaced a colorLCD with the new colorLED in my Met Pro. I really prefer the LED in this game!

The color LED looks like an original DMD when the game is off, looks like what a true color DMD would look like it, had they had them, IMHO, and the animations, etc. were all created for this format (individual pixels/dots), so look great. I also prefer the display quality of the LED, absolute black when pixels are unlit, vs backlight glow with LCD (noticeable in a darker room), higher contrast, and extremely bright.

I'm a bit of a traditionalist, so I prefer the dots look in this game. Others go for the hires mode, which is fine too (I'm just being nice, hi-res is the toupée of pinball display modes).

More thoughts and pics here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led/page/7#post-3648882

#10216 2 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

I saw this sticker here and saw that some people wanted to know how it fit. I figured I'd share my experience. The sticker is a nice 3m material and the print quality is good. I investigated removing the original sticker but decided to try to apply this directly over the original. I lined up the edge and began to apply... First, the new sticker has nice adhesive that allowed me to reposition without ripping or leaving adhesive, all be it it was quick and did not sit long or have allot of pressure applied. Anyway it laid down nice and smooth. The only drawback to doing it the way that I did is that the new stickers openings are slightly larger than the original. If it bothers me over time I will probably try to sharpie that out and if it really bugs me I will get another sticker and remove everything form the metal panel. However for now it does not and I do like the look. Anyway, thats my two cents.

-Jim

Looks sharp! Is this available for the original run Mets, with the wooden backbox?

1 week later
#10363 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I've had four PMs asking about that coffin mod I am working on. This isn't something I plan on making and selling, just having fun coming up with ideas. I tend to MacGuyver things like mounting and securing using what I have available in my workshop. Right now this coffin is mounted using a cut in half rubber doorstop (for the mounting slope and angle), two velcro strips and some double sided tape. I'm going to make a clear base for mounting the coffin at the upright angle it currently is because it looks way better than the easy way of mounting it flat. The clear base will also allow me to mount the LED strip on the original plastic so it has some space to shine up and through the eye holes, which looked super when testing.
This is easy enough to do on your own with a little creativity, but not something I'm interested in making and selling. I also modified the coffin and didn't keep it stock because the thickness was a little too much to mount at the angle I wanted. Fit perfect layed down flat over the captive ball plastic though without any modification other than install the LED strip. The coffin is metal and I had to cut off the hinge to separate the top and bottom and I just use the coffin top because then the thickness is perfect.
There are 4-5 other coffin designs like the one below which I may try also, and they're only $6.50 shipped, so it's a no brainer to try out and I think all the options look better than any other coffin mod I've seen.

Sounds fun! I think we should start a pinwiki section, or something like that, for "do-it-yourself mods". So many mods can be created/crafted yourself with a minimum of cost/skill/effort with a few basic instructions, and doing them can be rewarding and you can end up with something totally unique to your game (if you want).

1 month later
#10598 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I have been loving my new met pro, but I have been struggling to find a good strategy / angle to tackle the drop Targets in the cemetery. I usually try to launch off the right flipper and suggestions

You can try to nail the first one or two while ball save is running off the plunge. Otherwise I backhand them off the left flipper for the first couple at least. You can do them all by backhanding of course but I like to shoot the grave marker itself from the right flipper as I find that more fun/satisfying.

1 year later
#13560 1 year ago

FYI I completed my project to convert a set of Creeping Death light bars into home-grown stadium lights for my Metallica Pro (at a fraction of the cost of the Pinstadium kit).

Details here for those with do-it-yourself tendencies: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/7#post-4433790

It’s amazing how much removing the stock spotlights over the slings and the light bars opens up the playfield!

664C1AD9-79E9-47C4-9718-C851C9FD0D12 (resized).jpeg
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