Hi guys about to join the club with a nib premium. Can anyone advise on whether the fuel gels work on the latest premiums? Thanks

Thanks very much for the generous offer, pm sent

my snake throws the ball out the left drain often and just noticed the metal tongue flap is stable. the right side can lift a fair amount angling the tongue considerable which may be causing it to fire the ball to the left. The plate will level itself when hit, but like I said sometimes it will remain at an angle. The photos don't show it at its worst, but you can see it is angled. Is this normal or what could be loose or missing? thanks

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The ball coming out of the snake is very erratic spewing the ball in all sorts of directions left. Many are sent straight to the left drain. Is there something I can do about this? Could it be a left/right levelling thing? Has anyone had this problem and solved it more importantly?

Sorry guys fixed that problem. If you notice the screw on the mouth was loose and not holding the tongue plate. Did it up but came loose again, so loctited it in and now testing. I thought this would solve my throw problem but it didn't. Any other ideas please?

Nice looking mod but wouldn't you have to change all the other inserts that are associated with each icon ie. all the cross inserts etc. That way they are color coordinated and easier to spot while the ball is zinging around? Also the snake insert could possibly be changed to orange seeing the smaller inserts around the playfield light up orange

have had mine for 3 weeks approx no ghost 300 plays but that really says nothing. I would feel in the clear after 6 months. BTW its a met premium

now that's what I'm talking about...nice

looks amazing. A lot of the older bally/williams games come up 1000% better with leds, even just by adding more lighting to the playfield dark areas. Well done on this machine.

it is a nice green and makes your game unique compared to the traditional purple mod. I'm sure it looks better in real life

Hi guys, had a problem with my new met premium where it could not eject a ball from the trough. I tried manually and it felt jammed. I got a ball out and played but the next ball had the same problem. Manually pushed it out and a globe came out with it. It was from one of the sling spotlights. Both of the sling spotlight globes have popped out before during gameplay. I spread the wires on the globes and they felt firmer when replace seated. But this one has popped out again after say 100 plays. Is there a way of stopping this from happening? I noticed my replacement ghostbusters playfield has wire mods that look like some kind of wedge system to hold the bulbs in place. Anyone seen or know what those wire pieces do?

my replacement gb pf has them the old did not

Dirty Donny payed us a visit in Australia and he was kind enough to sign my apron. I think it looks neat.

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my sparky works but I'm having real problems getting the magnet to catch the ball. Unless its a nice soft roll near the area, most times than not the ball will not be intercepted by the magnet. So depending on what happens next I may get sparky to shake or it just goes straight into multiball. Do the magnet core need to be adjusted a little higher as mine may be a touch lower than the wood cut out ring?

raised it a couple of millimetres and seems to catch it better and the ball looks more central on the magnet when caught. Need to test a bit more to be sure though.

Wonder if you guys could help me please. Have a premium and since NIB the snake has never directed the ball to the left flipper. It may go to the left sling, the left inlane, the left outlane, even hit the fuel target today. Is there a way to adjust this? I looked underneath and loosened 2 hex screws and 2 phillips head screws but could not move the assembly. Am I undoing the wrong screws? I also noticed the armature rod is not central to the holes where the ball would sit; more towards the front. It doesn't hit anywhere but is very much off centre.

I'm going to do the tongue, fang and snake body mod but was hoping to solve this prior to attempting these.

Am really stuck on this one guys and may need some finer details to what I have read.

thank you will have a look.

I have achieved beating all the high scores on my game except for eotl and combo champ.

I don't seem to even get close to to 20 combos. Is this normal or do you guys score lots of combos per game?

if you do attempt to move the cliffy, try this as it worked for me. I used fishing line to slip under the front edge of the cliffy and then kind of sawed downwards to break the seal. No damage whatsoever, but use strong line. Make sure you move sideways and not put pressure upwards to avoid damaging the cliffy.

I use this method to remove side rails but use wire in that instance

I need some advise please. Just installed a Stern shaker kit on my metallica premium and having major problems with the hammer magnet and coffin feed. Most times the ball will dislodge from the hammer magnet when the shaker activates and a few times the ball had jammed trying to enter the coffin lock. While shaking its offsets the ball to the right of the coffin path and the jam when the magnet coil tries to go up to the playfield.

It seems like the magnet is not strong enough to keep the ball on its path both prior to the hammer coming down and if it succeeds there, entering the coffin lock is compromised.

Any suggestions?

I have had the ball release on the sparky magnet a couple of time too. I have tried all three settings moderate, minimal and maximal and the only mode I have had fault free games is setting 'None'

This board is very important and needs to be installed on the CPU/sound board. Remove J3 connector and plug this into J3 and reinsert the connector onto this pcb. This pcb filters any line noise generated by the shaker motor that will interfere with your switch matrix.

A quick tech tip needed. I've been asked to remove and reseat a connector on the back box. I am struggling to remove it. Is there an easy way to remove these? I see both ends have like an interlocking part to stop the connector from falling off. To date I need to use brute force to get one of these guys off

Marcospec sell a comprehensive set of met decals

My met monster GI's are strobing like crazy making gameplay impossible. Stern's warning is a reality if I tried to play with this happening for an extended period. If I disconnect/reconnect the grey data cable it seems to fix it for a very short time. Any ideas

Can you get a good copy and get a set printed for you locally at a printer

I don't think it is unreasonable to say that Metallica is up there as one of the better music pinballs of all time. But do you think Iron Maiden may push this beast down a run or two? I don't like maiden music and I think metallica toys save it but am interested in your views. I know this thread may be biased a little LOL

I actually hope they don't really compete but compliment each other by being vastly different great playing games

Disconnect and reconnect the data cable both at the backbox and where it goes under the playfield. It looks like a grey ethernet cable. This will solve your problem either for awhile or for good depends on whether the connection is firm or not.

I have had my game for a year or so and have played many ciu's but no end of the lines. So have adjusted each object vakues to 5 like snakes, coffins etc. You could try making it easier to start ciu so you can get proficient at playing it out and even getting to eotl. I suck at this mode currently. You can always return to factory settings at a later date

Do you have a shaker motor installed? If so turn it off and have test game and get back to us

my snake threw the ball everywhere except to the left flipper. I noticed the ball was hitting the metal post and/or the pick target. I haven't tried adjusting the mech but put a piece of foam in the mouth and finally it throws the ball to the left flipper. But I thought I'd mention this for anyone who experiences the problem to see if the ball hits the post etc

I think there's a time limit and the trapped ball will be released if you don't hit it with the other by a specified time

Well I have bettered what people have said about having two balls trapped on the cross magnet. I'd actually had three balls in play and thought I'd try a backhand flip to knock the captured ball free but the flipped ball was too weak and became captured. I figured it was a worth while risk as I had another ball in play. Well my third ball shot to dislodge the balls was also too weak and so I had three balls locked. DOH

Yes it does or at least it does on my game. You do need to do this near the beginning else it will go through the whole sequence.

My bad guys just tried it and failed. It must be on the odd occasions when the magnet fails to trap the ball during activation and if you double flip out maybe just flip a lot it will bypass the animation. Sorry

I have once in factory settings but I made it easier to get to for a little while and played it several times but never showed enough to get my name up. Now I'm back to factory

Hope someone can shed some light on this problem. Since yesterday weird stuff has been happening on my met monsters. While in a multiball mode i could hear the coffin mb sounds where it spits out balls but there were no balls in there (well i thought that as i was playing sparky mb). When i lost all the balls and waited for the next ball nothing came out of the trough and i noticed a ball in the coffin lock area. Game went into ball search but it didn't pop this ball out. I had to switch off and on to get it to empty. I think the next game something else strange happened but i cant remember. Tonight after playing a decent game and sparkymultiball finished i had a few flips and then a two ball multiball started for no reason but soon after without even flipping a ball the flippers went dead and game over.

I did do a code update about a week ago just for the experience. V1.7 as before and no errors seemed to occur during the operation.

Any ideas?

Thanks guys really appreciate the thoughts. Will try these suggestions over the weekend. Got a couple of comps first then will give it a try. Thanks again

Grave stones is an option on Aussie games

I would imagine this is on all games including usa
Adjudtments
Game
#131 grave marker type

Also i think balls were magnetized causing my issues mentioned earlier. Thanks for the help

Just a quick request. Does anyone know what fuses go into a reb b shaker pcb. I was sent one without fuses. Thank you

One other quick question. Is there a way to demagnetise pinballs

not that I'm aware of. There's nothing like pinball2000 diagnostics except stern have leds on their fuses to show if one is out

This is why I don't put many mods on my games and very few that require power. Saw a ghostbusters so modded out that you couldn't play a game without a ball being hung up somewhere or a toy falls onto the playfield.

Going to silly extremes like this is a bit like dressing your dog up in silly clothes. Can't see this purpose

Agree. If they don't look out of place or Disproportionate then I consider them. It's mainly the Electrical ones that sort me the most and very much so the ones that come with the silly alligator clips. Come on if you're charging $100 then at least make a connector.

People just need to check where they are putting things to ensure no ball hang ups etc. I've been caught out even putting promo plastics in places causing problems

What I dislike is people complaining that the premiums are not worth the increased price tag. They aren't but I prefer Sterns pricing model than not having it. Before the pro/premium choice a manufacturer simply would dump stuff from a game full stop. At least now you get the chance to buy a game as it was designed or close to it. I still read where people surmise things have been omitted and are disappointed. As far as this time delay in play goes, I thought playing pinball was for entertainment. When I'm on a tight schedule I'm usually at work, when I'm chilling time doesn't matter, in fact, I don't won't to be rushed. I like seeing little gizmos do their things. I suppose I'm easily pleased lol

Sorry mate for not responding earlier, there is no end to this mode as long as you make the shots. It keeps going until you lose the last ball or it (not sure now) it times out a bit like seek and destroy.

If you make the shots a ball is added to the mode ie 1 becomes 2, 2 become 3 balls in play etc

Post not level with the playfield when in the down position. It could be too low causing like a divot.

Re snake eject. I wouldn't bother with the coil strength but rather see what the Actual problem is. Look closely at how the ball ejects for clues. I had a problem and screwed around with settings and stuff and then found the ball was hitting the mini post near the snake entrance. I had the reposition the snake mech a little or you can or a piece of foam in the mouth to help guide the ball to the correct trajectory

I purchased a core plug for my metallica with the part number 530-5320-00 and when i got it , it looked very much like the ones in my tz. Comparing my tz core it was identical.

My question is, Will this fit my met or Spiderman? It seems longer because i had these proper core to compare it to.

Also look carefully as the ball ejects. See if it is grazing the right hand mini post. Mine was hitting it sending the ball towards the fuel or outlanes

Pmed for the files thank you very much

isn't there a coil power setting? I recall there was one in V1.70 but maybe I'm thinking spike systems

I think that is correct but you can always change these values in settings

Hey guys 3d printed this piston and painted it up. I think it looks cool and may print another to put on the other side but not sure yet. What you think of it? Thanks

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Yes dirty donny signature

Any suggestions of where else to put it on the game?

Get an exorcist and get one quick Before it starts spinning around and around

Here's what I do. Guys in aust get the tournament button included so if you set up tournament mode it doesn't have extra balls. So pressing start and the games played as normal. Press tournament button and your in a competition situation.

I've always wondered this. Can you wax a game too much? If so do you then need to remove the wax and start again after a while

Have you recently installed a shaker motor?

i had this type of issue using rev A pcb for the shaker. changed to rev B and no issues but my problem started immediately upon installing the shaker. So if you've had it installed for a good while then the problem is something else

The real super skill shot is actually hitting the flashing insert which not only gives you the score but also makes that shot ready for the hurry up. It auto lights cross, snake, chair and coffin inserts for that shot without having to hit those items

Maybe it does but your dmd turns off immediately. Mine is on for a good 10 seconds on power down

My bad meant to be good 1 second but you can see the msg easily

Maybe it's a hertz thing. I noticed the same on my Spiderman. There is a slight delay in the dmd shutting down. I've also noticed once in powering up my Spiderman where it verifies the code.

Having a strobing issue with my gi's. I find it I push against the cable towards the connector the strobing stops but when released is back immediately or after a few games. This was at the pf end. I reseated both ends to no avail. Any ideas please

Thanks pins and connectors look new. Reseated and inspected all the cn connectors and all look good. No strobe but I think it will come back shortly. I think maybe the rj connector as while strobing if I push the cable towards the connector it can stop the strobe

Strobing getting worse. If I push the cat data cable towards the connector under the playfield it stops, but when you start playing, it comes back fairly quickly and makes it unplayable. I have a monsters led version BTW. Any ideas please

On my premium I carefully watched every time the ball entered the cross chamber during the cross multiball and the magnet briefly activated and slightly flings the ball when it releases. I probably hit the area 6 times including a jackpot shot and the magnet activated each time.

Hey guys not sure if this has been posted before but I've been having real strobing issues with the gi's. Tried all the cables etc. But was told this and it seems to work without stuffing around with cables and connectors. Lower the gi brightness setting from factory 50 to 40. Wham no more strobing. Thought I'd let you know

Holy shit and I thought my 2 bil was special..... Nope not now

no comparison between the two. congrats on a fantastic upgrade in line up

Why should it matter if you're not selling? Market could drop to $1 for Metallica and wouldn't worry me. Not selling this title anytime soon if at all
It's one game I really enjoy..... A lot

I did have the same thing happen and I looked under settings and my extra ball limit was set to 5. So figured that was the problem.

Well done mate. Have installed it to test fire or not

Never a problem mate

Down there mate lol

Oops sorry

Hammer has never got in my way and I'm 5' 7".

Btw not as spectacular as the clear hammer but I made a met logo where people put the belt buckle mod. I think it came up ok. 3d print, airbrush color, acrylic mounting
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Great thing with Metallica is both pro and premium are fun to play and although I own a premium, I don't feel let down when playing a pro

At a loss in what your saying. I installed pinbits protector using my existing hardware. You may have an issue with sparky placement? Photos may help us give advice.

Can you try to elongate the a holes a little or does it miss by a long shot?

Agree and I own a premium. I just like the additional toys etc but pro game play is top notch too

Not sure but this nut/core may be loktited on. So all you need is to heat it a little to break the seal. Then it should release easily

Well done mate looks factory

I always thought vault editions were devised to get rid of the excess stock of components like playfields etc. I think Metallica sold well for many years so there'd be little excess stock. I doubt seeing any vault for this anytime soon if at all. The walking dead a different story but not for a couple of years. Tron I think next. But your guess is as good as mine really

Generally cliffy will give me a bit of an indication on the wait before I order. That way it's up to me whether the buy or not. I can't see a problem with that. Patience and eventually you'll get them or maybe ask for a refund. I'm sure he'd ablidge if you can't wait.

With regards to this network cable
1. Can you hot glue the connection point to the socket or is this a waste of time.
2. Is this a standard cable you buy from computer stores etc? If so what is it called?

Thank you

I viewed the video and just checked my game as has strobing and noticed while removing power cable that the header pins were loose. I resoldered and all good. But I'm unsure if that solved the issue or merely reseating the connections did.

Removed plugs and pcb and soldered the power cable header pins on the pcb. My power plug may show the slightest yellow but so slight it's hard to tell even with a light on it. So will keep an eye on this and if strobing returns

The flipper plunger rod is probably mushroomed on the edge. Do a flipper rebuild to fix. How many games played on your game? Also. If you have young kids who flip a thousand times per ball will wear this rod out quickly too

That's not many. Check for binding on the mech

That's because they're always thinking resale value. I just enjoy playing my games and never get bogged down with what I'll get for them when I sell. It's like the guys who garage and put low mileage on their cars. All they're doing is keeping it nice for the next guy who'll pay way less than the original price and enjoy using it how it was intended.
I play, customise and enjoy my games to death, and worry about resale when and if the time comes

That's because they're always thinking resale value. I just enjoy playing my games and never get bogged down with what I'll get for them when I sell. It's like the guys who garage and put low mileage on their cars. All they're doing is keeping it nice for the next guy who'll pay way less than the original price and enjoy using it how it was intended.
I play, customise and enjoy my games to death, and worry about resale when and if the time comes

I use blu tack to hold the picks. Don't think that should ruin anything

Agree

Are you using the high polished chrome balls. Standard carbon balls are the go for games with magnets especially ones with lots of magnets like theatre of magic etc

Not an easy job time wise. Personally if you can handle playing and looking at it the way it is, I'd leave it for as long as possible. I'm not that fussy as long as a game plays well. I'd only do the swap if selling the game or the issue effects game play or the issue grates on me. Also imo any swaps populated or unpopulated change the way your game plays. So if you're happy now, just keep the new pf as a spare

Big thanks to hoby1 for the stl files. Here is my first attempt. I may tweak some things like size of archway.

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Great work there hoby1

The brass/gold is a nice touch

Here's a topper I've been working on. Not perspex but full 3d objects. Obviously not finished as will mount better and add lighting.

The smaller logo will disappear btw

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Would like to but firstly I have to prove this one for durability ie, the shake test lol.

Also there's a lot if work involved, the pistons and logo took over 100 hours to make. Then painting, assembly etc

I'll post photos of the final product when done and estimate what it would sell for. But thanks for asking

First disconnect your shaker otherwise you can cause other issues. You have most probably blown up the tip transistor on the shaker pcb. You'll need to replace it, but the is a check you can do with a multimeter if you know how to use one. If you're unlucky you may have blown the tip transistor on your main driver pcb instead

Did you colour coordinate with the matching inserts throughout the playfield?

If it's the shaker pcb, I replaced the transistor twice and it blew both times. Only once I swapped it for a new pcb the problem has gone. So maybe contact stern

My topper is coming along slowly, testing lighting atm. I have 6v leds coming to complete it, just unsure whether to link it to gi or something else. Gotta work out the best colour to choose.
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I replaced the 2x white flashers bulbs with blue at the top of the grave yard and near the rising cross. Made it less blinding.