(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

6 years ago

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#15616 11 months ago

Greetings programs, hope everyone is doing well.

I recently got a new to me, slightly used but mint pin and wanted to start saving for my next pin, NIB Metallica Pro, but I’ve been hearing that Stern is no longer producing new Metallica pins and that there was a final call recently for dealers/distributors to place a last order for them a little while ago and that when the new ones that are out there for sale are gone, that’s it as no more are being produced.

I wanted to see if anyone else heard this and/or if this is true as I figured someone here might know for sure.

I only have two pins but want to, at least once, get a NIB pin and Metallica is one of my favorite bands, if not the most favorite as I went to one of their concerts back when I was 17 and have liked them since I was an early teen and while there are a lot of great new pins still being made, this is the one I would want to get NIB.

I just wanted to see if this was true as my original plan was to purchase one of these NIB near the end of this year as it will really be hard for me to justify buying two pins around the same time but if it is true, I gotta get creative. I don’t have much room so 3 pins would probably be it for me at least for a long time.

Thanks for any help and advice.

#15618 11 months ago

Thanks Neal, for the life of me I tried searching but guess I didn’t use the right terms.

We’ll Plan B, time to get creative.

Thanks again for the quick confirmation.

#15640 11 months ago

Greeting programs,

Well the stars aligned for me and was able to sell some stuff and scrounge up enough funds and got my amazing wife’s blessing to get a NIB Metallica Pro. Should get it in a week or so and this will be my first and probably last NIB pinball I get.

I was planning on getting one by the end of the year but confirmed they are no longer making NIB but my amazing dealer had a few left and one of them is now going to be mine.

I already want to add a ColorDMD, the dot version, and the snake fangs, tongue decal and the upgraded mod when they get produced again.

Regarding the ColorDMD, are they two different models (one being the dots and the other being the non-dot version)? I saw two options on the ColorDMD website and assume the dot version is the more expensive one vs the LED version.

Are there any other must have mods or enhancements?

Thanks for any and all advice and hope everyone has a great night, so excited. Now all I got to do is go through this entire 313 page thread LOL.

#15644 11 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

the dot version as you are referring to it (actually the LED version) is the cheaper model of the two designs and retails for $369 plus shipping (the LCD version is $399)
I have my mystery hole protected with a cliffy, mylar around the sparky magnet, the extended sparky leg protector plastic and have the playfield protector kit installed. those are the "must haves" in my mind

Thanks so much and didn’t realize the LED was the dot version as it seems like a lot of people favor the dots one vs. the non-dot.

I’ll definitely get some protectors, assuming the plastics one from Pinbits is good as that’s where I got my MMR protectors.

Quoted from jfesler:

The LED version: has one pattern (LED dots!), great wide angle of visibility, and super vivid. Blacks are blacks! Unless they've gotten better, the color convergence of each "dot" is not great; I see edges of red, green that stand out instead of being nicely mixed in the LED package.
The LCD version: has multiple patterns (dots, dotsXL, line scans, others). The color converge is not a problem. However, the angle of viewing is less; as you step to the side you lose some vividness. Also, the blacks are really grays.
Given how subjective it is, I'd try and find local samples of both before making a decision.

Thanks for the details as I’m new to the ColorDMD and didn’t realize the LCD could do any of the patterns and wasn’t just limited to the non-dots version as I prefer dots compared to the other version. Seems like trade offs with both. Guess I’ll have to keep watching some more vids and/or try to find some samples locally.

Thank you everyone for the tips, advice and suggestions.

#15663 11 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

The LED is a direct replacement. The LCD is basically a laptop display and has to be mounted an inch or so back on MET. Vireland makes a cool gasket that fills the gap and gives it a nice finished look. I think colordmd sells it now and highly recommend it. I prefer the look of the LCD and you have a handful of display options. If you are not sure which one to get, just go with LCD. LED is mostly for games like CV where the LCD will not fit.
I wouldn't overdo the mods. Easy to spend hundreds if not thousands on mods and hard to get that money back. Besides the stuff you mentioned, I suggest an external subwoofer if you can find one cheap. I also really like the following - cheap and effective:

Thanks so much for the help and info. I watched several other videos and read a lot of threads. I think what was shying me away from the LCD is I watched a video of it really up close and while it looked good in Hi Def, I wasn’t sold on it, but then I watched another couple of videos that had it at a distance and OMG, yeah I’m sold, so I went ahead and got an LCD, the extra standoff since I’m getting one of the newer LED ones with the metal back box and I also got that stretch gasket (Vireland’s) from the ColorDMD site. I couldn’t believe how fast it shipped, I was thinking it would take a week or so but it’s showing to be here tomorrow, WOW.

Quoted from yzfguy:

I would recommend overdoing the mods
I have lots on my met and absolutely love them. Pinball is about fun, so getting all my money back is not the goal.

Yeah, I know what you mean, it can easily get crazy. I just like to get some mods, protection but don’t want to overload it unless I just really like it. So far I’m getting the below:

-Mantis Scoop Protector (Still might get a Cliffy or two but prefer the hidden protectors).
-Pinbits Protectors (For all the plastics and the extra Sparky airball protector).
-Mezel Mods Fangs & Gel Inserts (Had to have the fangs and figured I’d try out the gel inserts. I would have gotten the other gel insert that has the bracket but Mezel’s, while it’s just gel sheets, came with the green fuel stand up inserts.
-Marcospecialties Mylar (Read a few threads that the Ironman Mylar circles works perfect for both of the magnets (Sparky and Cross).
-ColorDMD LCD (Got the gasket and extra standoffs too. Talk about fate, the day after I ordered it, ColorDMD releases updated code, it’s a sign man LOL).
-Pinball Life Feet, Kickout Protector (Have rubber feet on my others and a lot of recommendations to install this small metal piece on the kickout shooter lane).

Future Mods
-PinGraffix 3D Snake Mod - I think they are going to have an updated version out soon since they are currently sold out.
-External Sub - The Polk one that everyone raves about on Amazon. Keeping an eye to see if\when the price drops. I would love to use this for my MMR and Metallica but I am not sure where it would sit as a lot of pics I’ve seen have it under one machine, but if it is shared between two, do you leave it under one or put it between the two? Any advice is appreciated.
-Mezel Mods Sparky Wires - Still up in the air on this and whether to get the one wire or two, not a must have just yet.
-Shaker Motor - Still up in the air on this as I have one on my MMR and while it’s nice, just not a necessity just yet. If I get it, was going to get Pinball Life’s version but then I saw that service bulletin from Stern that says any use of a non-Stern shaker, voids your warranty, so still pondering this.
- Mirror or Side Blades - Not sure about this as I did try to get some for my MMR but the tolerances on my machine were so tight, one ramp even touches the cabinet, that I ended up returning it rather than trying to install and ruining it. Still not sold on these yet either but maybe eventually.

I think that covers me for mods and I am cut off for a while as my MMR was supposed to be the only pin I got for now but since they stopped making Metallica’s, my amazing, beautiful and awesome wife gave me the blessing

Quoted from Roostking:

Congrats!! Don't forget to add an external subwoofer. Makes a huge difference!!

Thanks and it’s on my future mods list.

Thanks again everyone for all the congrats, advice and help. It’s amazing how slow time goes by when waiting for your pin to ship LOL

Take care everyone

2 weeks later
#15830 11 months ago

Well, it's "official", I am in the club!!!! My Pro LED came yesterday and finally got done with the installing the initial mods\protection:

-Mantis Scoop Protector
-Pinbits Clear Plastic Protectors (including Sparky)
-Mezel Mods (Snake Fangs)
-Snake Tongue Decal (thank you to who sent this, not sure if they want a callout)
-Mylar around both magnets (Marco's Iron Man pre-cut ones)
-Shooter Kickout Protector
-Shaker Motor (pinballlife, bit shoutout to Terry for his help)
-ColorDMD (BIG shoutout to Randy for his quick replies and help to some questions I had during install)

That covers the main ones but there is one that remains that I need the club's help with....Speaker Upgrade.

I've read and read and read all the posts and suggestions that I could find and below is a summary of the options I came across:

1. Adding 2 Boss eq-amps and upgrade all the speakers with any decent set for the backbox and cabinet.
2. Adding a sub amp (Dayton 70W), new sub-woofer and new backbox speakers.
3. Upgrading the backbox speakers and then get the famous Polk Powered External Sub and either leave the cabinet speaker hooked up or not use it at all.
4. Leave everything stock and just add the Polk Powered External Sub and either leave the cabinet speaker hooked up or not use it at all.
5. Get either a PP or FF speaker kit and nothing else.

So there are the options and I have no clue which one to go with. I am by no means an audiophile but I do like great sound, not necessarily LOUD but if I'm in the mood and want to crank it up, I want it to be clear and not distorted. I mean the stock speakers are ok and loud and somewhat clear but there just isn't that oomph or feeling. I know I'm not going to get rock concert sound and my ears can't take that anyway but hoping someone was in my same situation and would love to see what they did as well as everyone's input on what they did and tried and if they compared different solutions, etc.

I think the only option above that will be difficult would the be #1 as those Boss eq-amps aren't available anymore and would have to be found on eBay or someplace else.

I don't necessarily have a preference, such as internal vs. external and just want the best sounding experience. No real budget but I'd like to stay under $150ish. I don’t mind crimping, soldering, etc. but not sure exactly how to rewire the backbox speakers, if I need to disconnect the capacitor, etc.

Oh and I have my Music set to Default at 1 and my Music Attenuation at -18 and the Speech at -10.

Thanks so much everyone for the help and so glad to be officially in the club.


IMG_1827 (resized).jpeg

#15833 11 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Pinnovators sub kit and a poll psw10. Best bang for your buck. Inexpensive and sounds great.

Thanks for the help and info.

Did you replace your back box speakers?

Just seen so many posts that upgrading these really helps a lot.

Did you just get the sub kit or did you also get the headphones option/board from Pinnovators?

#15834 11 months ago

Forgot to ask, for those that have the Polk external sub and share one between two pins, where do you place it?

Right between them or could you put it up higher between them or does it have to be on the ground?

Thanks again.

#15843 11 months ago

Greetings again,

For those of you that swapped your diverter post to metal, is the top of the metal post smaller in diameter than the plastic one?

I purchased the armature assembly below that was linked\recommended on this thread but when installed it, it just didn’t look right and worried me that I either ordered the wrong part or was sent the wrong part unless this IS how it is supposed to work. The best way I can describe it is think of the size of a quarter as the hole, the metal diverter post is the size of a dime, so there is a lot of extra empty space around the metal post in the hole. Is this ok as I would think the hole would get chewed up and the ball would skip\jump when it was down.


I hope all that makes sense. I was hoping my plastic diverter would work as intended but if I don’t baby the plunge, it bounces back and comes down the right orbit every time and the same goes for when I shoot the right orbit, it hardly ever stops and drops into the pop bumpers.

Also, what are the rules specific to when this diverter goes up or stays down? What I mean is sometimes when I hit the orbit shots (left or right), the post goes up and the ball always bounces back, other times it stays down and the shot goes all the way around. I can’t quite understand what causes the post to go up vs. stay down when shooting the orbits. I get how it works on the initial plunge.

Thanks again for any and all help.


#15844 11 months ago
Quoted from britrex1:

Your best bet is to start with the external sub (cheapest option and a must have for this game) then if that doesn't quite do it for you replace the cabinet speakers.

Thanks for the help\advice, this seems to be the choice that everyone unanimously recommends. Seems like a split on using the pinnovators pinsub board.

I’ve see quite a few posts where people say just getting an external sub didn’t help much, while a lot of other posts say it definitely makes it a lot better.

#15848 11 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yup, comes down to personal preference. That's pinball.

Very true, I noticed today that the tilt bob didn’t hit all the areas of the metal ring due to the shaker clear cover so I had to move the entire assembly back a little so it would. Very strange that Stern would design it this way but perhaps someone didn’t install the tilt bob in the correct place.

Quoted from Roostking:

It makes a world of difference. I can't recall seeing anybody say it doesn't?

Yeah, out of the several speaker upgrade threads I’ve read through there were several people that said just adding an external Polk sub isn’t enough or that Metallica doesn’t have enough bass to work well with just adding a Polk, hence the reason I just can’t decide.

I’m really leaning towards a FF Kit, either the Meaty Bass one or just the Flippin Fantastic one, as I’m not looking to have it extremely loud but just want a better overall sound with the ability to hear a little more bass and thumps for certain kick drum parts and if possible, would like to have everything internal unless the external sub is night and day compared to the internal solutions.

Thanks again everyone for the help\advice.

#15853 11 months ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Adding an external polk psw10 sub is more than enough. It's what I did and it makes an amazing difference. Set both dials on the back to somewhere around 1 or 2 o'clock.

Quoted from yuriijos:

A external Polk PSW10 will make any pinball machine sound awesome.

Thanks and that sounds like the clear winner\choice.

So should I just hook it up via piggybacking the cabinet speaker with alligator clips or solder or should I get a Pinnovator’s PinSub Kit? Didn’t know if there is any noticeable difference between these two connecting options?

Thanks again for all the help\advice.

#15858 11 months ago

Thanks again everyone for the help and advice, Polk sub and Pinnovator’s sub kit ordered.

Does the sub need to be on the ground for the best sound or does it matter? I just didn’t know if it would be better if it was higher up and closer to chest level? I have a small table next to the pins and curious if putting the sub higher up would be better than underneath the pin.

Does the sub only produce bass or does it also produce any mid sound?

I’ll try this recommended setup before I try to upgrade the back box speakers.

I appreciate the help.

#15859 11 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yes, it is skinnier at the top of the metal diverter post.
As far as rules.. It stays down if you hold the left flipper during a skill shot plunge. It stays down if your orbit shot is completing a combo.

Thanks so much, I installed it and it helped when plunging and shooting the Right orbit but the ball still bounces back when shooting the Left orbit. Oh well, better than it was.

#15862 11 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Just put it under the pin and it will sound fine. It's only bass but does make things sound better. I wouldn't replace the backbox speakers. I don't think you are going to improve the sound that much and not worth it. Save money for mods that make a huge difference like colordmd or for the next pin.

Thanks for the help and it’s weird as it seems like it’s split 50/50, some people say stock is fine and upgrading speakers won’t really help with the newer Sterns while others say they are cheap paper speakers and it would help a lot putting in new speakers.

Quoted from lpeters82:

I don't think you need a large sub, but they certainly make a difference. Especially true if you only have one machine running.

Too late LOL, already ordered so we’ll see.

On a different note, does anyone know where this thumb screw goes, see pic below? When I was unboxing, it was loose in the cabinet.

905A9E4C-79B3-48EF-82D4-49B25D068435 (resized).jpeg

#15865 11 months ago

Thanks for the help with the part.

Regarding the sub, I’m curious how it’s going to sound as the highs and mids from the stock speakers just sound bland, like an alarm clock radio, no real umph to get into. Don’t get me wrong, it’s clear but just want a little more and figured I’ll try the sub and if I still want more, perhaps upgrading the back box speakers will suffice.

Did anyone purchase the Metallica manual from Marco? If so, is it actually a good manual, meaning is it in order and are the schematics actually legible or is it just a printout of that out of order and disorganized manual on Stern’s site?

Mine did come with a condensed manual but it doesn’t have all the mechs and schematics and while Stern’s online manual (Metlab pdf) has more info, the scans aren’t really good quality, especially when zooming in on the schematics.

Was just curious as it’s $45 and wondering what you get for that.

Thanks again.

#15869 11 months ago
Quoted from Bundy:

Flipper Fidelity speakers makes a hugh different to stock speakers.
I have them in my MET Premium and they sound very good.
I also have a stand alone sub in another game but to me the Flipper Fidelty is better.

Quoted from yzfguy:

I have flipper fidelity speakers as well. I ended up with a sub and figured I'd give it a shot. OMG. It shakes the house. The combo of both is great!

See that’s where I keep reading conflicting opinions. Some say what you both do while others say (a lot earlier in this thread) when they replaced\upgraded theirs with one of these kits, they weren’t much better and one even said it was worse in terms of losing highs and mids and their stock speakers performed better.

I guess my thing is that I know the Polk sub will give it more umph but I’d like to get a little more umph from the back box in terms of mids as I can live with the highs that is being produced. So that’s where I’m at, do I just use the Polk and stock speakers or would adding a FF kit (even the lowest end co-ax ones) be better than what the stock is? I’m tempted to get their Meaty Beaty Bass ones but those don’t have volume control but the cabinet speaker is a three-way and it’s only $30 more than their base co-ax ones.

I know, first world problems.

Thanks for the help.

#15872 11 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Just get the sub and keep the stock backbox speakers. I bet you will like it.

Thanks, can’t wait to try it out.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well what did you expect? It's like asking 1000 Pinsiders which game is better MET or ACDC. Pinball is ALL about personal preference. Most times you just have to try different things on your own and if you don't like something you bought well "that's pinball" and maybe you can sell it to someone else.

Not really expecting anything specific, just wanted to get everyone’s thoughts\feedback based on their experiences. I totally agree on the “that’s pinball”, learned that quick when I started down this rabbit hole almost four years ago.

Thanks again everyone for the help and info regarding speaker upgrades. I won’t continue on this subject as the last thing I want to do is run it into the ground.

#15876 11 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Do the stock speakers sound bad to you? They sound fine to me. I just wouldn't expect much better sound from a pin and rather save $150.

It’s not that they sound bad, it’s just the curiosity of if they would sound better (better highs and more noticeable mid range sounds) as now it just is pretty flat (still clear and loud but no umpire if that makes sense). As I’m making my way through this thread, so far made it to page 155, there are some that say upgrading stock speakers isn’t worth it while others say it helps a lot and some even say the Polk didn’t work well for them.

I’m just going with the Polk sub for now. I’m just trying to research as much as I can as I would hate to upgrade the stock speakers and not hear any real noticeable difference worth the cost of upgrading. I upgraded my MMR myself using some Kicker speakers and noticed quite a difference but alas that was a different machine and company entirely.

Hope that helps clear up why I’m asking as I’m not trying to annoy.

Thanks as always for any and all help and info.

#15877 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Ed, where are you located? You'd be welcome here to listen to mine.

Thanks for the offer, but in FL

#15884 11 months ago
Quoted from Maken:

Should I be able to backhand the right ramp on Metallica?

I’ve been able to do it a couple of times, very tight shot.

#15888 11 months ago

Would anyone be interested in a pdf of the Premium\LE Manual?

The manual that is on the Stern site, while it appears to have everything (schematics, mechs, etc.) it is so disorganized.

I emailed Stern to see if they had a better one as I really didn’t want to pay $45 for a printed one and sure enough, they emailed me one for the Premium \LE. I did check with them first to make sure it would be ok if I shared it and they said it was fine.

Now while this manual is A LOT better organized, it is just for the Premium and LE, so there is no info about the Pro specific mechs. So what I then did was go through an older version (better quality resolution) of the current online manual that seemed to have everything and copied pages that weren’t in this manual they emailed. I also replaced some of the pages with better resolution pages from this older manual, basically you can zoom in on some of the schematics better than the manual they emailed me. Just keep in mind it’s not perfect and you’ll notice some of the page numbers are not in order because some of those pages were from a different manual in a different order but all the info on the original page was the same, just a better resolution\quality.

So, I figured I would check to see if this would even be relevant (being Metallica is over 5 years old) and if anyone might want/need a better copy? I’ll have two files, the one that Stern emailed me, untouched, and then the one where I added everything that wasn’t present in the emailed manual that was in the older manual.

If so, would it be more beneficial to start a new thread just for this so that it won’t get buried here? Not sure where to put it, maybe in the technical assistance thread?

Also, are google drive links allowed on here? Sorry, just don’t want to do anything not allowed and just trying to give back a little as so many of you have helped me so much throughout the years.


Edit: Link to the manuals:


#15890 11 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Yes please! Post up the Google drive link I'd love to replace my crappy manual.

Will do, it's below and just let me know if it doesn't work as I don't do much with Google Drive. I'll also edit my original post with the link and wait for more feedback if others feel that I should create a separate thread.


#15893 11 months ago

Question regarding back box speaker wiring..

In looking at the manual and looking how my speakers are currently wired, they do not match. In the manual it states it’s wired in series, Red-White to Left Speaker positive, then a wire connects the Left speaker’s negative to the Right Speaker’s positive and finally the Red-Black wire connects to the Right Speaker negative.

Mine does have the Red-White to the Left positive BUT the Red-Black is going to the Right Speaker’s positive instead of negative???

I know they use a capacitor now and on mine, both speaker’s negative connections run through this capacitor but if mine should match the manual, shouldn’t the wires on the Right Speaker be swapped?

I’m still new to speaker wiring upgrades so hoping someone has more knowledge about this than I do. Pics are below to show what the manual has and then how my speakers are currently wired. I’m getting sound fine and perhaps they changed it or this is a parallel setup?

Thanks as always for the help.

31D95972-B7E6-4A66-819B-C9216A89B654 (resized).jpeg6E06A249-F212-446F-965D-091E22B22F85 (resized).jpeg8C467F2E-9ACB-4EDA-9530-B15BA6AAA074 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#15960 10 months ago

Greetings again,

For those of you that replaced your diverter post to the metal one, have you noticed any new issues, specifically related to your pinballs?

When I was inspecting my pinballs today, after just about a week with the metal diverter and probably about 70 plays, one of my balls has dimples all over it and is starting to resemble a golf ball, ok not THAT BAD, but can only imagine it will get worse. I am using non-chrome and standard carbon balls from ballbarron as I tried the chromes and just after 60 plays they already started sticking together and became magnetized.

So I guess my main question is, will these dimples on the balls cause any issues, like more playfield wear due to the bumpier rolls (I know sounded weird typing it, not sure how else to word it)?

I can only assume it is from continuous contact with that metal post.

Thanks for all the help.

#15963 10 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Dimpled balls indicates that they were not properly hardened. Replace them. Try some from another source.

Quoted from yzfguy:

I made that post swap a few years ago and have never had this issue.

Thanks for the quick reply and that sux.

Any suggestions on best place for replacements as ballbarron had really good feedback and PBL hasn’t had any shiny balls in for a while.

Only other place I know of is Marco’s regular ones but $2.99 a pop, yikes.

Last question, until I get replacements, week or so, is it ok to use the ones I have or will they cause damage or anything? Only ones I have are other chrome ones?

#15966 10 months ago

Disregard, found the missing connector.


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