(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Matesamo
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#11784 2 years ago

Can we get a right ramp with an "A" on it, instead of an M? Man, that drives me nuts.

2 months later
#12236 1 year ago

I made some underlights with an Arduino and some Ws2812 LEDs. It came out pretty well. I didn't wire it up to a switch yet.

Cost about $45 in materials, and a few hours of time.

Screen Shot 2017-12-22 at 2.30.21 PM (resized).png

1 month later
#12598 1 year ago

My Mystery just started ejecting SDTM. I tightened it up and realigned it to no avail. What settings do you have on right eject?
Or are there any other ideas?

Getting an extra ball isn’t helpful if you get a SDTM when you earn it!

#12603 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Do you have a cliffy on that scoop? If so it can cause all sorts of wacky kick outs if it gets bent or displaced.

I sure do have a Cliffy. It was working fine for 3 years. The default power setting of 64 is SDTM.. Are any of you making it so low it drops on the right flipper?

4 months later
#13783 1 year ago

I love my Metallica Premium. But, is anyone else OCD about the left ramp being cool with the stylized "M" cut out and expecting the right ramp to have a stylized Metallica "A." You use the ramps to spell Metallica, so why not have the M and the A. Someone get me a replacement right ramp with an "A" laser cut instead of a second M.

4 months later
#14949 1 year ago

Once I installed the new code on my Premium, the motor on the cross is constantly active. Have any of you seen this?

Other than that, the new code is a welcomed surprise!

1 month later
#15446 11 months ago

I was messing with my Premium the other day, and sort of took an inventory on the mods. I took a lot of photos and made a short video in case you are interested. I love the Cointaker interactive backbox. It's a shame that they shipped with the same lighting as a Wal-Mart store.


#15451 11 months ago

I do have to fix that flipper buzz on my left flipper. Also, I keep unplugging and replugging in the ethernet cable to stop the seizure mode that it goes into every few weeks. Anyone have a permanent fix on that? Is it more likely to be the ethernet cable or the node board?

1 week later
#15509 10 months ago
Quoted from bsobie:

We have a Metallica Pro with mirror blades. As you are playing you can see several of the lights through the blades... which is normal, of coarse. But, it’s like staring into a 100 watt light bulb. My eyes hurt when I’m done playing. I really like the mirror blades so I don’t want to get rid of them but have been thinking of swapping out some of these bulbs with either frosted ones or some that are not as bright. When I look at different sites with bulbs I’m lost. What’s a good brand to go with? Is one better than the other? Thank You for your thoughts, input, and direction...

I wanted the glow of extra lights, but not the full mirror for the same reason. So, I put on "black chrome" vinyl wrap on instead of blades. It was $15 and a cool look (IMO.)

#15510 10 months ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Is it normal for SAM games like MET to have a rather loud buzz or humming noise from the flipper coils? I checked the EOS switches and they seem to be working fine.

As suggested in the thread, I used automotive gasket material and made a 1 3/8" washer to put between the coil and coil stop. I moved the spring washer to the other side of the coil. I made a short video with before and after sounds. Buzzkill achieved!

#15514 10 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

Sounds cool. Any pics of that??

Here are some images. It's the 1.5' x 5' roll of this stuff:

amazon.com link »

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2 weeks later
#15670 10 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

ColorDMD updated for 1.80, just if anyone missed the email:[quoted image]

Speaking of updating. I set my ColorDMD on HiRes for Metallica. What are you guys running? I am tempted to try Scan for a while. Definitely not 8-bit with those animations.

1 month later
#16066 8 months ago

The PDI or HD glass is important if you also have the interactive backbox mod and/or a ColorDMD. Without it, you might not see the back of the playfield during play.

#16073 8 months ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

What do you use to clean the 2 metal ramps? I always just used a little novis 1 sprayed on terry cloth rag and buffed them, but know there is a better way and want to know.

I use Plexus plastic cleaner on the ramps. Works great!

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#16089 8 months ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Is it normal for SAM games like MET to have a rather loud buzz or humming noise from the flipper coils? I checked the EOS switches and they seem to be working fine.

I had this problem, and I made a crappy gasket from auto gasket material at Autozone. I am not a neat cutter, so I also got some Neoprene washers made. They are black 1/64" thick, 1 3/8 in in diameter with a 1/2" hole in the center. I had to get a lot made, so if anyone is interested, LMK. I call them "Buzzkill" I used 2 on my left flipper and one on my right and the flipper noise went away. The ugly blue one worked, but I wasn't proud to have it in my machine. Since it's Metallica, it wanted a "Blackened" one.

To install, you move the spring washer to the other side and put some Buzzkills between the coil and the coil stop where the Spring washer was.

IMG_0075 (resized).JPG

3 months later
#16510 4 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I've had this issue too. the [buzz] is caused by the flipper coil moving. what I did to eliminate the issue on my machine was to take out the screws on the coil stops and the leading brackets (highlighted in green), add some lock-tite 242 (blue) to the threads and then re-assemble everything. you'll want to make sure that their is no "slop" between the coil stop, coil and the leading bracket. there is a small, metal spring washer at the top end of the coil (between the coil and that bracket, shown highlighted in purple). if there is any slack, this will vibrate and cause the [buzzing]
[quoted image]

the wire on these switches can be pushed to one side or the other without depressing the switch. check to see if there is any side-to-side movement that would allow the ball to rest without triggering the switch itself.
I've gone in with a pair of small needle nosed pliers and slightly crimped the "ears" on either side of the switch housing to eliminate/reduce this side-to-side movement so that the ball has to depress and actuate the switch

I made some neoprene washers and it stopped the noise on my machine. I had to buy 500 of them as a minimum order, so I have extra. You can see the video of my fix here. In the future, I'll get thicker ones made.

2 months later
#16767 83 days ago

I sold a decent amount of BUZZKILL noise reducing washers, so I ordered up another batch. This time they are thicker, made from 1/64" thick Neoprene. They do a great job stopping that coil buzz when you flip and trap up on some of the noisier Sterns.

If you want a set, send me $5 via PayPal along with your address. I'll send you a set (two washers) USPS Mail. Great for Metallica (Pro) AC/DC (Pro) Transformers (Pro) The Walking Dead (Pro) and other machines that buzz when you trap up.

You can make 10-15 sets yourself with a gasket from Auto Zone for $7 (plus tax) and be out time for the errand and work, with a misshapen gasket to show for it.

buzzkill (resized).jpg
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