(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread

By swampfire

6 years ago

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#10476 2 years ago

Does anyone offer a FULL SET of Orange protectors for Metallica Premium? I know Mezel Mods offers the lower half, Pinbits offers a full set but only in florescent green. For me Orange, Blue Purple goes better with the PF.


2 months later
#10903 2 years ago

If I wanted to change the color of the F U E L lights on my premium, is it just a matter of swapping out LED's?

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#10905 2 years ago

Does someone make an LED board for this?

#10908 2 years ago

That's not for the f u e l letters in my pic.

#10912 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Assuming you are happy with the colors, the same boards should work for either application.

Really. Cool. Has anyone on this thread done that?

Also, does anyone know if the Habitrail mod is still for sale? I contacted seven but haven't heard back.


#10914 2 years ago

I see there are a few different backglass options. Some are interactive, some just convert the lamp to LED, and some are interactive. I was thinking about the LERMODS RGB option.

Any thoughts on which looks the best?

#10918 2 years ago

Can you take a pic of what it looks like underneath?

#10920 2 years ago

I love that helping hands contraption you have in your second pic. Where did you get it?

I am not sure I want to do the soldering. I may stick with the gel option.

#10930 2 years ago

how did you get those things to stay in there?

#10938 2 years ago

I had asked asked this higher up in the thread. If anyone has an opinion please share. Thanks!

The backglass florescent is God aweful dim.
I see there are a few different backglass options. Some are interactive, some just convert the lamp to LED, and some have RGB capabilities. I was thinking about the LERMODS RGB option or the Rock custom for my Walking dead and Metallica.


Any thoughts on which looks the best?

#10944 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

This is what I have as well. It eliminates BG glare and works perfect.

interesting and reasonably priced. I am not crazy with the fact it requires you to clip on to the transistors on the main board. Is there a chance the transistors can blow out if one of those alligator clips come loose or touches a transistors next to it? I assume you need to unhook all the alligator clips if you need to get to the main board for service?

#10954 2 years ago

I would be interested as well.

#10962 2 years ago
Quoted from jasong78:

Making myself a cnc'ed 3d topper , unfinished atm ... If I get interest I'll do more try to get modfather to paint them

I might be interested

#10967 2 years ago

are you adding LED lighting?

2 weeks later
#11072 2 years ago

How tall is that topper?

#11076 2 years ago

If anyone is interested in making the Metallica topper, I have the figure and stage set. I never opened it and can't use it as I only have 9 inches of clearance above my machine and you need 12 for this. I paid $60 with the shipping but I'd be willing to ship it anywhere in the US for $50.

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#11077 2 years ago

I am having issues about 25% of the time with launching the ball into the orbit. It happens with auto launch or hand launch.

Sometimes it hits the side of the rail before its exits.

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#11092 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Good luck moving that trough side cliffy after it's installed. The adhesive is strong and any bend upward in the cliffy will eventually pop back up.

Damn. If I have to remove that I may kill the metal and have to but a new one. I guess I will have to do some more testing to be sure before I actually attempt..

When I first got the machine I noticed the auto launch screw that holds the mechanism was extremely loose. I tighten that up and it help the auto launch by about 25% but both auto launch and hand plunge are still too inconsistent.

#11096 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

if you do attempt to move the cliffy, try this as it worked for me. I used fishing line to slip under the front edge of the cliffy and then kind of sawed downwards to break the seal. No damage whatsoever, but use strong line. Make sure you move sideways and not put pressure upwards to avoid damaging the cliffy.
I use this method to remove side rails but use wire in that instance

Ok, thanks for the tip.

#11097 2 years ago

I sent my pic over to Cliff and here's his response:

argh. they installed it too low on the right one. I designed them to look symmetrical and sit straight across from each other. I know what happened. They used the lower screw hole on the right strip. Its only there for games that need it- IM, SM and a few others. On metallica its not needed. if you line it up across from the left side parallel it will miss the lower screw hole but thats ok, it will still be clamped and hold. Being installed too low like that cocks the ball to one side a bit. Look at the pic of mine and you'll see the top edge of both protectors line up with each other. Mine install on top and his on the bottom. I am glad I dont have to take off the left side. I will make the adjusment and see what happends. Funny thing my TWD and ghostbusters all have them install incorrectly. I guess I will have to fix them all.

Even in this video on how to install it's off. Fast foward to the 39th second.

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#11098 2 years ago

Well I made the adjustment, it seems to help ever so slighly but I still get 20-25% of the balls that dont make it to the orbit.

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#11099 2 years ago

I am at a loss. I tried putting some washers on the plunger to move it back abit, I tried bending the auto launch to make better contact with the ball. Same issue. . I am looking at the metal fork ramp and it doesn’t look center with the ball cavity. See how the arrow of the play field isn’t center with the metal fork. Its shifted slightly to the left. Is that normal?

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#11101 2 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I couldn't get a good look at where your shooter tip is compared to the ball at rest. For some reason the Stern shooter rods are a bit shorter than most. I have replaced most of my shooter rods on my Stern games to get the tip of the plunger touching the ball at rest. If it isn't touching, the shooter rod has to go past its resting point to get any force on the ball. Which makes it a very weak plunge. Swapping out the shooter rod with any aftermarket one makes the plunge so much simpler. If it is the auto launch mech that is giving you fits, there are a lot of threads with fixes for that.
Here is a picture of my stock Iron Man shooter rod next to the new one I bought, a bit of difference in length.

I have an aftermarket one that is longer and pushes up against the ball like you mentioned. I actually tried putting some wahers to make it shorter to sit more like a stock stern so the tip is behind the ball.

The issue happends on both auto launch and manual plunge. I am thinking its that Metal fork ramp. It doesnt look centered but I dont know whats normal. Can you take a look at yours and take a pic? I circled where I need you to focus on. the arrows that is painted on the playfield doesnt line up with the arrow on the metal fork. Is that supposed to be like that?

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#11103 2 years ago

is not slowing the ball down. 1 out of every 4 or 5 shots hits the sides of the walls prior to leaving the shooter lane causing it not make its way up the obit all the way.

#11105 2 years ago

My machine was made in May 2016. It's not like its a first run model. POMC can you take a pic of your metal fork position?

#11109 2 years ago

My folk is too far to the right. It looks like your folk is too far to the left.

#11111 2 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

well, it's not easy to distiguish out normal options with your cliffy there...
since the ball fails with both manual plunger and auto, its either or both;
1. cliffy alignment
2. ball guide allignment in shooter lane.
i bent one of my ball guides a year or 2 ago in the shooter lane. visually inspect what the ball is bouncing off first/second/third maybe when you manually plunge. just my suggestion, good luck!

How am I supposed to fix the ball guide alignment in the shooter lane?

#11113 2 years ago

The ball shouldnt be hitting the Metal side ball guide. The issue is metal fork that pushes the ball up the ramp. If its off center it would cause the ball to move therefore hitting the side. How doe you adjust that?

#11116 2 years ago

I think people are getting confused with what I mean by metal fork. Look at my picture with the blue circle a few posts up. That's the metal fork I am referring too and not an auto launcher.

1 week later
#11218 2 years ago

I purchased a MET and TWD premiums from Melissa at Cointaker and couldnt be more happier. They work with closely with Steve at Pinball Refinary so if you want to get it pimped out without doing it yourself you can have it sent to him first to do the mods. Both Steve and Melissa are awesome people and I cant say enough good things about them. You wont be disappointed. I plan on doing a review soon but I am waiting to install a few more mods first.

I love my MET premium and TWD. I had Steve do some small mods and I add did a shit ton more. I added a smaller hammer. I see where some people say the stock hammer blocks your view but with the hammer I have is the perfect size. I love it.

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#11237 2 years ago

You will also want to install a speed controller for the shaker. Mine shaker was too violent. when the hammer engaged.

3 weeks later
#11409 2 years ago

I am not sure if this is normal but when I lock all three balls for the coffin multi-ball, only the first ball comes out right away. The other two slowly get feed downward and eventually gets released. I'd say it takes about 8-10 secs to get all of them out . I can hear a mechanism clicking as the balls slowly make their way out. Is this by design?

#11423 2 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

***Edit - Looks like dmieczko already advised on this. Leaving it here anyway as additional reference.
When is the last time both of you changed your balls? Reason I ask is this is a very common issue for when the balls become slightly magnetized. it causes the balls to slightly stick to either each other or the guide which prevents them from dropping fast enough to get past the post that is dropping down. I.E. at the same time you should be hearing that post engaging multiple times. First thing I would do is try some new balls and if it's still an issue then their is something else preventing the smooth movement of the balls.

Interesting. The balls have about 100 games on them.
I will try out different balls. Thanks for the suggestion.

1 week later
#11485 2 years ago

I think I am pretty much done with modding my MET Premium. I got a base unit with a few minor mods from Steve over at Pinball Refinery and then went buck wild. Steve @ PBR and Melissa @ Cointaker kick ass. I recommend them to anyone looking to get a NIB pinball that want to get powerdercoated and modded from the get go. The only thing left is to color the cross LED's but I am waiting for the cross LED mod to be made for the premium. If anyone notices any other tasteful mods I haven't done yet, please me know.

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#11488 2 years ago

I considered that mod but not sure if the art looks out of place with the rest of the machine. Vinny's hammer looks good though.

Plus I don't think it will fit with cemetery arch and ride the lightning bars.

#11489 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yup that's loaded all right but how about my Leg Light-Ups in purple and same color for beatmasters shooter housing light up?

I didn't do under an lighting so I am not sure it would look good without that.

#11492 2 years ago

Thanks for the pics Paul

#11495 2 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Paul u ever think of making interactive

Spiders on the spot lights by mezel plus a tv by sparky im sure ill think of a couple more

Yea I saw those but they look too too plasticy. I never saw a tv by sparky but not sure it would look good in that area.

#11501 2 years ago

I have a brand new Metallica Snake Mod. $35 free shipping. PM me if your interested. Accept Paypal.


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2 weeks later
#11594 2 years ago

Just wondering if the snake jaw is supposed to be flush with the PF? If so, how do you adjust?

Here are some pics of my snake with the jaw open.

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#11608 2 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

The only way I could adjust mine was to remount the snake assembly with spacer washers between it and the playfield.. Mine was a lot higher than yours with the mouth open.

There is an adjustment screw on the jaw latch coil assembly. Some say adjusting it helps, but for me it made no difference. Looking at the design, I don't think it was intended as a height adjustment.

Looks like the screws to take out the snake are a bit stripped from the factory. I rather not open Pandoras box. How is the height of your snake in relation to mine?

3 months later
#12332 1 year ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

My pro w/ total light show + spinners begs to differ

My Metallica Premium disagrees with you

#12334 1 year ago

I’m not arguing , I was attempting to be witty. Either way pro or Prem you can’t loose.

1 year later
#16791 68 days ago

I have a bunch of Metallica picks that are cool to glue to various parts of the machine. They are $4.98 eac + $3.50 shipping. If you want to buy more than one, shipping is still $3.50. I only have qty 1 left so first come first serve. PM me with what you want.

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