(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 18 days ago by newpinbin
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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7243 Magnet removal Posted by xTheBlackKnightx (7 years ago)

Post #8935 Buzzing flippers fix Posted by j_m_ (7 years ago)

Post #19696 Fixing random drop targets dropping Posted by swampfire (2 years ago)


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#1976 9 years ago

When I added service rails to IM, the holes for the t-nuts were already pre-drilled at the factory under the apron, so it was just a matter of putting the t-nuts in place. The bottom/back holes go wherever there is room, the above pic is a good reference. In fact you don't even have to remove the pegs to install the service rails, there is enough room.

Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

So the new machines don't even have the black playfield legs to rest playfield on cabinet anymore? Or did you just remove them to install these service brackets? Man what a shame, first they take away the nice back box lock and now no service brackets or stands? How am I supposed to justify spending the amount of money I am right now for a NIB led pro and they give you bare minimum stripped down games. Huh, even the knocker is gone. Maybe I'll keep my money instead this is f$&#in bullshit.

All Pros ship with the black pegs. What's with the lock box lock missing? I'm also not aware of a pinball machine made in the past 15 years with a real knocker...

#1985 9 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

I know about the knocker not being made but why? Isn't that sound part of the nostalgic pinball madness, why take away an integral part of the game to save a few bucks. Oh I know why so they can bend me over after spending almost $5K on a new machine.

Count your blessings... you could be spending $8k on WOZ, Hobbit to get a real knocker and service rails. Or $8k on a WOOLY, or $10k+ on MG, RAZA, AIW, etc. Or just get full featured Metallica Premium and call it a day.

3 weeks later
#2200 9 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Now a question. I've heard of drop targets bricking, but I have the opposite problem. The first 2 drop frequently on their own, usually right after reset. Do the target blades themselves just need to be replaced?

They just need adjustment. I had to rebuild mine completely, even tried different springs and springs mounted in a different location, something is just odd with that design. At this point I still only have 2 of 3 good targets but it's better than none.

2 months later
#2977 8 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

My gf loves Met and hates Tron. Now my wife, loves Tron but hates Met. Tron and Met are set up in different rooms, so far everything has worked out well.

Yea, it's probably best to keep them in separate rooms.

#3008 8 years ago

Metallica has had one of the most positive initial receptions of any Stern game (largely due to the custom artwork), followed up with one of the best rulesets in pinball. Based on momentum on this thread and the fact that I'm still finding new rules to exploit (thanks to this thread) it has impressive momentum for a game going on 2 years old.

1 month later
#3747 8 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

i got so tired of looking for a NIB Premium for the last month, so I finally pulled the trigger & placed my order with Steve for a pimped out MET LED Pro Pinball Refinery Edition.

Yea, Stern doesn't always do a great job pre-guessing or adapting production levels on their Premium or LE models, yet they have no problems making Pros.

1 month later
#4286 8 years ago

I notice my coffin block doesn't always register hits during play, while it is otherwise very sensitive depending upon where the block is hit, so I'm either going to have to tune it up or swap it out for a newton ball. How much does the newton assembly decrease the ball landing on the magnet for capture?

#4308 8 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

The biggest help here, for me at least, will be if you have standard or superband rubbers. With standard I can hit it pretty easily. Games with SB's I can't hit it at all.

I have no issues hitting the Fuel lane from cradle or with a moving ball with superbands. I've been trying to think of a technical reason it might impact the shot but can't come up with any, outside of a misaligned flipper.

#4311 8 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Are your SB clean and or new? They are much stickier than standard rubber unless dirty. The stickyness effects the point at which the flipper needs to be pressed in order to make a shot that is that low on the flipper. Also, some games just seem to be tougher than others with some shots. I can assure you the flipper alignment is not the difference/issue as the game was played with the same alignments. I had superbands on the game for about 3 months. Took them off as SB messed up all my angles when I went to play in tournaments as the points of release are different.

I've had them on for a year, but I don't remember that they made that shot more difficult even after installation. You may be right that dirty rubber lets the ball slip a little on a flip, but at that point I might consider adjusting the flipper angle, I've had games where an improper angle on a flipper definitely changes the shot difficulty. Or just rub some dirt on it? I may switch back to the original rubber at some point just to compare. It's also noteworthy that the original uses black rubber, which is harder than red, and the SB is harder than black. All 3 will offer slightly different experiences, not sure if one is worse than the other, but matching to your on location game is likely the best way to go.

2 weeks later
#4405 8 years ago

I like how the games always seem to be delivered by an 18-wheeler where it is the only package onboard. VIP all the way.

4 weeks later
#4557 8 years ago

Does anyone have the instructions for exact washer configuration on the drop target assembly?

2 weeks later
#4645 8 years ago

I added red to the flipper area (posts and rubber), love the way it turned out.

metflips.jpgmetflips.jpg

1 week later
#4715 8 years ago
Quoted from Blackstorm:

Finally made it to End Of The Line tonight!!

Wow, is all I can say! I'm in the opposite end of the spectrum tonight.

After getting my game dialed and waxed, my scores dropped in half. After a dozen games I felt like I was getting a beat down like IM tends to do, so I gave up and played IM... though since it too was just waxed, I had the same result. I now think of MET as IM on steroids... MET outlanes are brutal when newly waxed.

Also I finally replaced my Newton block with a Newton ball... I see nothing but upside from that decision, looks and plays better. In fact now I wonder why Borg put the block on the Premium/LE considering that the Newton ball didn't appear to decrease the ball capture rate in the slightest.

#4719 8 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I am still waiting for my game, and have a Newton ball waiting in my pile 'mods to install. Just wondering what exactly the benefits are. From what I gather, less ball abuse, but are there gameplay benefits?

It makes it easier to combo a coffin+sparky or coffin+snake in one shot. It also looks better... the newton block starts to look very shabby in short order, not that it ever looked great from the outset.

1 week later
#4870 8 years ago

I've never had an issue with glass rattling in any game, but can confirm that it may be necessary to re-tighten the shaker to the cabinet every once in a while, if not it will sound like things are breaking. In fact I've had a Williams shaker shake itself to pieces, was a puzzle to get back together... It happens.

My latest is that every so often when the ball is ejected from the snake's mouth it will catch the fangs and a lot of times that results in a drain STDM. Anyone else have this?

2 weeks later
#4935 8 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

Don't do it. You are just confirming that the pricks can keep making cash this way.

Putting an artificial limit on the prints gives flippers the green light to profit off of it instead of DD. Sucks for real fans of his work, of Metallica, and of the pinball machine.

2 weeks later
3 weeks later
#5396 8 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

I replaced all the stock songs with instrumental versions of the same song ... do I get in line for ass kickery too?

That's actually a really great option for those who aren't really into the music... the instrumental versions will appeal to a larger audience. I have a tough time with "One" in the game because it starts so slow I usually drain the ball before any substantial melody comes through

1 week later
#5621 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You would be surprised at the "little things" that can be overlooked at the factory. That is why an owner of a NIB machine needs to check EVERYTHING after unboxing and BEFORE power up.
I'm my case for example 2 out 4 leg bolt cabinet plates were stripped the to improper installation of leg bolts at the factory.
I had to install new ones to get the legs on properly among other things. Ni reported my findings to my distributor to do their job.
1000s of parts even with good QC is difficult at best. Stern remains suspect.

I had the same issue with mine. I had to re-thread a couple of my leg plates and bolts when I received my MET NIB. I already had the right sized tap tool because I also had to use it on XM right out of the box. That's 2 for 2.

1 week later
#5813 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

For you LE and Premium owners. Does your hammer 'bounce' when it activates? The hammer on my game goes down, comes up a bit and then goes down again. Last year I experimented with different spring tensions on the coil assembly, but that did not help. Has anyone found a solution for this?
Rob

I see this on mine... doesn't actually bother me enough to do anything about it.

1 week later
#5892 8 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

Am I the only one that doesn't like the Metallica name cut out of every piece of armor? It already says it in 2 fool tall neon letters down the side of the cabinet.

Yea it's a bit redundant... I see that with toppers as well. Using a scary guy or throwing star would be better.

#5919 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Available in 2013 for $50.
Available in 2016 for $250 (direct market).

My recollection is that Stern has always been stingy with them, and when the custom painting started the availability dried up further, so $100 was a common starting point. I don't recall them at $50, ever.

2 weeks later
#6109 8 years ago
Quoted from Beemus:

hat's the thought behind captive ball instead of block? Is it for look or is there a functional benefit? I'd imagine the captive ball has the potential to create air balls if magnet in front isn't level but as long as it's level have at it
Honest question and not questioning the choice. I have an extra captive ball and just curious if there is a strong reason I should install it in place of the block. Thanks for sharing.

Only Borg could answer why the Premium/LE has the block and the Pro has the ball, but if I were to guess it is to increase the odds that the ball will be captured by the magnet at coffin lock. In my experience I have not seen those odds decrease significantly with the ball so it remains a mystery why it was done.

There are plenty of games with the captive newton ball besides Metallica, and I can't say I've ever seen an air ball off one. One of the benefits in MET is to easily combo the coffin/sparky or coffin/snake by sliding off the captive ball which is still possible with the block but not as easy. This is one of the aggravating things about Stern making multiple game play models, both models should have had one or the other.

Back on the air ball topic, if the magnet is higher than the playfield it will occasionally propel the ball up into the hammer and it will never make it to the coffin shot. This is actually how my game came from the factory, so it's a good idea to make sure it is level.

Finally, the captive ball looks nicer than the block

1 month later
#6546 7 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

LEDs do have a purpose, but they are many times misused badly. I own LEDs, for tricky spots albeit rarely but it is not like they are sacrelige.
A board will not fix that problem with the types, use, or color.

Sounds like your only issue is with people's choice of LEDs (which I agree), as the value of LEDs is undeniable with new and older games, eliminating heat damage to plastics, backglasses, and inserts, and they can restore original coloring of faded inserts.

Quoted from swampfire:

So I guess the consensus for inserts with LEDs in MET is that LEDOCD is NOT needed.

MET is one of the few games for which I didn't add an LED OCD because it was designed with LEDs from the beginning and the fading effects are not as prevalent as many games designed with incandescents... but the LED OCD technology is superior to what Stern or PPS includes in their LED games, so I could see it being an improvement as others have testified to. I'd be curious to see before/after video if anyone has it.

universe_(resized).jpguniverse_(resized).jpg

1 week later
#6651 7 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

People have mentioned several times about Mylar in the shooter lane. Is there a specific one or is it just a sheet cut to size? Link for the correct product would be appreciated. Thanks.

I'm not aware of pre-cut shooter lane mylar, but it's easy to do. However, I would recommend going a different way: Hard As Nails.

Stern puts just enough clear coat on the playfield to cover the smooth veneer playfield surface, but it's not enough for the shooter lane which is created by digging into the rougher layers of the playfield. Hard As Nails smooths out a shooter lane to eliminate rough areas that accumulate dirt and grime, making it easier to keep clean and looks factory original... actually better. Mylar is guaranteed to dull over time.

#6669 7 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

So just apply a coat or two with a small brush in the shooter lane? How long to dry before use? Never heard of this method before.

It takes about a half dozen coats or so to get a shooter lane smooth. Drying time between coats is maybe 10 minutes. It works best on a new/clean game in both the shooter lane and on the edges of the scoop to provide some resistance to dirt and wear. On older games where the dirt is already ground in, it's a tougher call, a brave soul might sand the dirt out of the shooter lane first, but after exposing that much wood, I'm not sure how smooth one can make the end result with the tiny brush

As with anything in pinball there is debate on the topic, but this technique has been floating around Pinside for years, usually with good results. I've done this on a few games, and after a few years the shooter and scoop still look new (HUO, so take that with a grain of salt).

Standard debate thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hard-as-nails-1

#6770 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I had 2 met's in my place the other week and one had stock speakers and another had full flipper fidelity ... so I did a test with both bc I was gonna take the supposedly upgraded speakers and put in mine . Well to my surprise the stock speakers sounded much better than the flipper fidelity especially the mid and highs. I was gonna start a thread on my find but didn't wanna upset or damage any businesses. So imo just adding a polk sub is the best option to upgrading the sound. Now if u add a amp with the flipper fidelity then it wld sound much better but with stock setup it just cant push the speakers enough.

Sounds like an adjustment issue to me. I've heard FF speakers in other games and it's a very obvious improvement in sound quality.

#6804 7 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

I think the game means a lot too.
I noticed the FF didn't sound like much of an improvement on met... Compared to my FF ac/doc.
I have not experimented with swapping out the stock music tho...

I've heard very few complaints about FF speakers not being an improvement, but it is likely relative to the specific game. For example, while Stern has improved sound quality with Spike, it is well known that sound reproduction on Whitestar/SAM Sterns is lesser quality than most 90's pins, particularly with Williams DCS. For example, I played an MM a while back where I noticed extra depth and clarity that I had never heard before ... the only difference was FF speakers, and the game really stood out. With ACDC, Stern made some effort to improve sound quality that was not carried over to other SAM games, so maybe that is why FF speakers sound relatively better on it than in Metallica.

#6809 7 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

SAM has better frequency response than DCS, which cuts off around 9khz. SAM has superior sound, although DCS (designed in the early 90s) is technologically superior compression.

Not sure about superior... maybe marginally better in some areas and worse in others. Road Show sounds better than most Sterns (the only WPC I have owned).

Quoted from metallik:

FF kits are garbage IMHO. My MetLE came with a kit and it sounded muddy. Too much bass, not enough mids or highs and the backbox speakers were underutilized. A person is better off simply replacing the factory backbox speakers with coaxial models and adding an external sub.

Sounds like a crossover adjustment is needed. FF speakers are coax, so it's misleading to say someone is better off doing exactly that.

2 weeks later
#6959 7 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

When I took out the stock unit, there was a black cutout thing after I removed the red film.

On one of my games I didn't have the seal around the DMD and had some bleed from the light behind the translite.... could that be it?

3 weeks later
#7164 7 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Middle of the road. A bit more diverse than TRON is.

It's actually a good description of the game overall... everything is well balanced, ball times and code depth are neither long nor short, and, I'd lean toward "broad" to describe the rules, with lots of risk/reward I don't see in other games. Definitely more to it than TRON.

#7188 7 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

So, I love the pingraffix snake ramp mod, but it's been bugging me that I have to too toe to see the rollover inserts and my son can't see them at all. No way am I losing the snake mod, so I rigged up a mirror to enable us to see the inserts. I think I like it here, it doesn't block anything, and it makes it nice and easy to see which inserts are lot. Just wondering if anyone has suggestions to make it look better, or has done this differently.

Nice solution. Looking at it more, it seems possible to mirror the first section of snake behind the head to avoid blocking the lane (resulting in more decal on the ramp), although it would cover the words "Feed Snake When Flashing". No perfect solution here... but the textured snake mod looks great.

#7208 7 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Good shirt, Metallica pinball fans.
I am having this one framed.

To make up for DD's attempt to sell a pathetically small number of the prints used for the shirt? I'd rather have the print.

1 month later
#7486 7 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Mine just keeps getting stuck on the snakes lip/

Mine did this as well... at the factory they installed the screw supporting the snake tongue too low inside of the jaw. The only solution is to remove the entire snake assembly so that you can relocate the screw so that the tongue is raised and level with the snake's lip. It's a real pain to do but very much worth while.

In the below pic you can see the hole where the screw was originally installed.

snakejaw_(resized).jpgsnakejaw_(resized).jpg

#7503 7 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Yours was doing this?

No, in my case the ball was stuck inside the lip itself... looks like your entire jaw is too low, so all you need is to raise the snake jaw... probably just a screw under the jaw assembly, will take you 5 minutes to do, tops. Try #8 on page B22 in the manual.

#7552 7 years ago
Quoted from Stron:

At start of game Grave marker Front position keeps lifting up and down (Solenoid keeps firing) for about 5-10 tries until the grave marker finally stays in the up position. Any ideas what could be causing this?

It's worth contacting Stern support about it since they've probably run across it before. It may have something to do with the optos... in my case when targets would not reset properly, optos were partially blocked and worked intermittently.

1 month later
#8141 7 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

I used the inner hole mantis style protector on mine.

Yup, Mantis is the way to go unless you are covering up significant wear around the scoop edges.

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